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[besada]

Shop is moving right along, TheCochese.

I did some edge routing yesterday, for a sign I'm making. My little Bosch is great for doing roundovers and simple profiles. I had so much fun doing it I may have put edge profiles on some stuff that didn't strictly need it It was a nice break from cutting out patterns on the scroll saw.

Ghaleoneb: When do we get some in progress pictures?

 

[GhaleonEB]

Ghaleoneb: When do we get some in progress pictures?

I'll post at the end of the day. Last night I glued up the bottom, cut rough sides off the drawer fronts and started sanding the sides and top. Which is to say, it's still a pile of boards and panels.

Today's goal is to finish sanding, cut the rabits into the sides and bottom, build the shelves/runners, and cut the plywood for the back to size. (Edit: and build the pedestal base.) Then I can assemble the body of it tomorrow. We'll see, everything takes 2x longer than I think it will. :lol

This is the last picture I took, from a couple days ago when I was gluing up the sides (top is in the background).

I didn't do as much work as I'd planned this week because the smoke from wildfires was back, but there was a wind shift today. I'll have my respirator on for most of the work anyways.

 

[TheCochese]

Windows, door locks, and starting my power runs.

 

[GhaleonEB]

Looking good TheCochese. I'm having massive flashbacks to my own shed build from a few years ago. It's a tremendous amount of work - and very easy to under-estimate - but really satisfying to see come together. I wish I'd just gone with the zip system of sheathing so I didn't have to do the house wrap separately. Would have taken a couple days out of the project, for about the same cost.

My dresser progress was less than I hoped, as usual. I did take lots of pics that I haven't posted yet, but I'll get to it eventually. All the support elements for the dresser are built, and I've spent around 3 hours sanding and filling everything. Tonight is a bunch of TLC and detail work, and then assemble the body tomorrow.

Just need to cut the back to size, add the central runner/drawer guide to the center of the supports, and sand the brad and screw holes I filled yesterday. (Mixed wood glue with sawdust from the tigerwood to use as filler in the tigerwood. Worked pretty well.)

 

[Business]

Great thread and quality stuff guys. I do way more modest stuff but I'll try to contribute sometime.

 

[MUnited83]

So I'm buying one of these in the near future

I want to make a small cosmetic alteration in the top half. The top half is aluminium, and I want to paint it with a small red symbol. What kind of paint should be used on Aluminium? Is it advised to sand off the area first or can it be just painted over?

 

[TheCochese]

I have partial power now. Plus I framed out my attic stairs.

(TV/PC outlet)

The math for the attic stairs was going well until I realized the angle was going to be variable. Then I just winged it.

Starting the overhead circuit run.

Lights in the shop now are controlled by a power strip. Now I have an actual switch.

Drop down stairs framed out.

Going with plug-in lights at least at first, three banks evenly spaced.

Inlets came today, testing all the outlets and switch.

These are the only ways power comes in, so using an inlet here is safe.

In-use cover protects from the elements.

 

[besada]

So I'm buying one of these in the near future

I want to make a small cosmetic alteration in the top half. The top half is aluminium, and I want to paint it with a small red symbol. What kind of paint should be used on Aluminium? Is it advised to sand off the area first or can it be just painted over?

Acrylic paint will be fine. If the original material is slick, scuff it lightly with some 220 grit sandpaper to create a surface the paint can stick to. Then paint and wipe on/brush on some polyurethane finish.

 

[TheCochese]

It's a slow week.

Other inlet box in, but not hooked up yet.

Down to the last two outlets on the ground floor.

 

[TheCochese]

Cut out my attic hole.

Won an IG giveaway, this is serving as my light for the time being.

It's bright enough to light the whole bottom floor. 8200 lumens.

Electrical done. It not being even is going to bug me. From L->R: lights, dust extractor outlet, air compressor outlet

Upstairs. T->B: Always hot, air compressor, dust extractor

Did some cleaning.

Five sheets of sanded 1/2" ply

Cut in half.

Ripped to 6" strips.

Floor going down.

Two edges left to do. Some gaps, but overall happy.

 

[KingV]

These projects are great guys.

I’m getting ready to build a new workbench tomorrow. I’m definitely not on your guys level, (nor do I have the yard to build an amazing workshop), but I’m looking forward to getting my garage in order.

 

[GhaleonEB]

We decided to put finish on the material before assembly, which added a few days. I also decided to get really sick this week, which added some more.

Last weekend, everything was still parts.

The drawer shelves/runners assembled in the shed, along with the sides and top in the background:

Bridget, staining the top (more on that in a sec):

The dresser cabinet and the drawer parts cut out and awaiting assembly:

Yesterday I got the body of the dresser together (sides, back, bottom). Today I added the drawer supports:

It never ceases to amaze me how many tools and what not is needed for seemingly simple tasks.

For assembly, I measured out the spacing needed between each shelf (7.5") and cut small pieces of scrap wood to that length, using stop in the miter saw so they were all exact. I then used a speed square to keep them vertical to the bottom, and clamped in the two in the front. For the two in the back, I used the speed square to keep them vertical and tacked them in with my brad nailer (the back was attached, so I couldn't clamp).

Spread glue on the sides, slide (okay, whack) the shelf into place, then screw in. Reset, move the spaces to sit on top of the new shelf, and repeat until all four are up. That will leave four 7 1/4" drawers (9" drawer fronts), and a five inch sock/underweard drawer on top.

The drawer sides are already cut, so this afternoon I'm going to put the dado in the back, which holds the bottom in, and assemble.

I'm not happy with how the top turned out. It was a really "thirsty" piece of wood with some nice accents to it, and because it was soaking up the Danish oil so fast we put some extra on. Rather than look nice and dark, it looks like it's soaked with oil and is uneven and really ugly. So, I'm grabbing a new board to mill down and glue up, tomorrow. The top is literally the last thing to put on, so it won't get in the way of the rest of the workflow. In hindsight, we should have done coats and let it dry/cure between coats, rather than soak more in. Lesson learned.

 

[Captain Tuttle]

I have that same nailer, handy little tool.

Dresser looks great

 

[TheCochese]

All electrical done.

First tool moved in. Needed to sand the floor.

The floor is done. One coat of matte poly, two at the door.

Onto the next step, likely insulation and interior walls.

 

[pantsattack]

I need to put an outlet, maybe more, in my sunroom. It was a porch that got windows put in it and closed off to the elements. The spot the outlet would go is in the original wood siding.

Is it safe and proper to use a regular interior gang box and plate here or should I use an outdoor version? Is the only difference a cover?

 

[TheCochese]

Decent little update.

As much as I like my task light I won, I need permanent lighting. Went with 40w 5000K 4000lm lights off Amazon. Going to add one or two more banks when the ceiling goes in.

Just the two provides a ton of light.

Bought some insulation this morning, this should cover the entire first floor.

Fairly easy to put up with a sharp knife.

I didn't forget to protect my wires.

Left wall done.

Putting the wall panels up are much harder. Drilled into this outlet, plus electrocuted myself on another.

Took some effort to get the holes just right, but I like the result. Panel is a bit thinner than the OSB I have in the old shop though.

Tomorrow the goal is to have five more panels up. Rain is finally coming as well, so my roof will get another test.

 

[randome]

Why did you drill into the outlet?

 

[TheCochese]

Why did you drill into the outlet?

I didn't mean to. Was using the drill to start a hole for the jigsaw.

 

[randome]

I didn't mean to. Was using the drill to start a hole for the jigsaw.

Oh. Well, it’s been interesting to see your progress so far. Great job and thanks for posting. Wish I was good enough to tackle a project like that!

 

[TheCochese]

Thanks. Getting to the point of wanting it to be over with though.

 

[Cheerilee]

I didn't mean to. Was using the drill to start a hole for the jigsaw.

You're supposed to disconnect the outlet and then put up the wall material, and then reconnect the outlet after the wall is done, that way the outlet sits flat against the wall material and looks perfect once you slap the cover plate on.

Also, you shouldn't have been using a drill/jigsaw anywhere near a live electrical box.

But I do understand the mental sluggishness that can set in when you've been fussing over doing a job perfectly and it starts to wear you down and you start wanting it to be done already. I've had to stop myself from making tired mistakes on more than one occasion. It's hard to stop yourself because the rest of the work is still sitting there, waiting for you. A little part of your brain tells you that taking a day off for rest won't make the work any easier, it'll just put you one more day behind schedule. But that little part of your brain is wrong and stupid. Rest might not make the work easier, but overwork will definitely make the work harder, and worse than that, overwork will make you stupid, which will increase the odds of you listening to the stupid little part of your brain (which will create a disaster that the smart part of your brain will need to spend a week cleaning up).

BTW, your work looks great and I really appreciate you posting it.

 

[TheCochese]

You're supposed to disconnect the outlet and then put up the wall material, and then reconnect the outlet after the wall is done, that way the outlet sits flat against the wall material and looks perfect once you slap the cover plate on.

Also, you shouldn't have been using a drill/jigsaw anywhere near a live electrical box.

But I do understand the mental sluggishness that can set in when you've been fussing over doing a job perfectly and it starts to wear you down and you start wanting it to be done already. I've had to stop myself from making tired mistakes on more than one occasion. It's hard to stop yourself because the rest of the work is still sitting there, waiting for you. A little part of your brain tells you that taking a day off for rest won't make the work any easier, it'll just put you one more day behind schedule. But that little part of your brain is wrong and stupid. Rest might not make the work easier, but overwork will definitely make the work harder, and worse than that, overwork will make you stupid, which will increase the odds of you listening to the stupid little part of your brain (which will create a disaster that the smart part of your brain will need to spend a week cleaning up).

BTW, your work looks great and I really appreciate you posting it.

What I was doing was fine, the wall panel shifted on me as I was pushing the bit through. After I realized what I did I both pulled away from the wall and shifted it down some. Cut, check, cut, check. The jigsaw was never near the outlets. The outlets are on top of the wall, so they are flush.

 

[GhaleonEB]

Got the drawers for Bri's dresser built today. Need to cut the dado into the bottom back that fits over the central guide, then onto the drawer fronts. Woo! (pics tomorrow)

Great looking shed. I left mine un-insulated because I needed the space between the studs; at just 10'x12', every inch counted. I have a lot of built in storage and racks between the studs.

 

[Cheerilee]

What I was doing was fine, the wall panel shifted on me

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_e9oPIWPN8

 

[GhaleonEB]

Drawers built, notch cut into the bottom to straddle the central guide.

Next up, adding a thin strip on either side of the notch, along the bottom, to keep the drawers straight (they can wobble a bit since the guide doesn't go the length of the bottom, yet).

Then onto the drawer fronts, which I'm in the process of gluing up.

On top of the dresser is the board for the new top; gonna rough cut it to size and mill it down tonight (will be two parts that glue up).

Holy hell is trying to make furniture actually be furniture-grade bonkers time consuming. So many details.

 

[TheCochese]

We got rain from Irma. We got rain from Nate today. In the four weeks in-between, nothing. So, I had both been looking forward and dreading today.

My roof still has a couple of minor leaks. Very minor, considering the amount of rain. A cup or small bucket would work until I get the shingles on. What was more concerning was rain coming through the door and through the windows.

I thought the flashing was bad over the windows, but it turns out it was because I hadn't installed a drip edge on the roof yet. I tried a temp solution, and it slowed it down a good bit. This is happening on both windows near the door. The door itself suffers from no overhang, and I hadn't installed a Z-channel yet. I did get that in while it was raining, but I need to install the siding above it and use a little bit of glue somewhere.

These are minor things, but need to be addressed before the next rain comes. I need to start bidding on the roof, see how much that is going to cost. One of the side effects of all this is my floor is a mess. I'll have to do some serious work on it to clear up the mud and dirt. Maybe I should have put down ram board or something. Maybe I still will.

The goal for today was to get up five panels. Accomplished. Plus some more cavities filled. No outlets were harmed in the making of these walls.

Oversize outlets because I can't measure.

Panel too short because I can't measure. This will be hidden by cabinets though.

Left wall.

Back wall.

Right wall.

Door wall.

 

[TheCochese]

Spoiler: the walls are pretty much done.

When I installed the last bit of insulation.

Down to the last two full panels.

All that's left to do. Rip down some of the scrap I have left over and pin it up.

I was ambitious and moved these myself. It was very interesting when the bandsaw fell on top of me. But look, I can plug into the wall like a normal person!

Little MFT clamp rack is the first thing up on the wall besides the electronics.

The jointer was fairly easy to bring over.

Current state of the old shop. May start bringing that left wall over next.

 

[besada]

Looking good TheCochese.

I did my first craft fair last weekend. It sucked. I sold about $65 worth of stuff with $500 worth on the table. Mostly just down to almost no traffic.

But I took a commission home from someone I met there, so that's not too bad. A full set of wooden utensils for six.

 

[GhaleonEB]

Looking good TheCochese.

I did my first craft fair last weekend. It sucked. I sold about $65 worth of stuff with $500 worth on the table. Mostly just down to almost no traffic.

But I took a commission home from someone I met there, so that's not too bad. A full set of wooden utensils for six.

Have you posted any pictures of your work? Would love to see it.

 

[besada]

Have you posted any pictures of your work? Would love to see it.

There's my little table. In the upper left you can see some of the ornaments hanging from my faux Christmas tree made from a 2x2 and some dowels.

 

[TheCochese]

Between yesterday and today the transition is pretty much done. Just sussing out details about where things will be and what storage I need to build based on the higher ceiling and different layout.

I wouldn't trade my little systainer storage for anything. But it's friggin heavy and needs to be rebuilt because I don't need that open space behind the closest drawer bank.

Had to get creative moving it over (everything moved over has been done completely by myself). Used the hand truck as a fake human and did a reverse wheelbarrow.

[

This is what that cutout was hiding.

Next the planer and cart came over.

I was most worried about the workbench. I set up some scrap to drag it over.

Woodworking al fresco. Easy part is over, because I have no ramp on the new shop.

In its new layout. Finally have full access again, the old layout blocked the tail vise.

Table saw moved over. This wasn't too bad either.

Unfortunately the support brace on the saw is the exact height as the pork chop. Might have to build a base and drop it down an inch. This jointer takes up way too much room, it's not well designed.

After I moved the router table and miter saw over. The RT was a massive pain in the butt because of the independent wheels and sloping hill.

Plane till moved over, which I hope to replace with a full hand tool cabinet soon. Probably going with the Fine Woodworking design.

Lots of little things for awhile, probably not too exciting. May pick up my new dust extractor soon if I can find a coupon. Need to see if I have enough amps to run it.

 

[DBT85]

Cochese making me feel bad for making exactly zero progress on my workshop. Or anything actually.

 

[GhaleonEB]

That's gorgeous work, Besada.

Shed's looking good. The nesting process of getting everything into its place is pretty satisfying.

This is my current favorite furniture making channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7FkqjV8SU5I8FCHXQSQe9Q

Quick dresser update. Drawer fronts are done, and the (new) top is glued up. I'll put Danish oil on the top after it's sanded down this morning, then attach the drawer fronts. Tonight, after the oil has set up, I'll attach the top. The Danish oil instructions say to wait 72 hours before top coating with poly, so we'll decide on the drawer pull hardware at that time.

The drawer fronts are tigerwood, and they really popped when the Danish oil was applied. Foreground piece is bare, the one in back just got done:

All the fronts done:

The top glued up, ready for sanding:

 

[besada]

That's gorgeous work, Besada.

Thanks! The dresser is coming along nicely.

 

[DBT85]

I have finally ordered some ply to get some pipework covered in the kitchen and maybe elsewhere.

Been off work for 9 weeks with our newborn and got absolutely nothing done that I wanted. They demand more time than I expected!

Still not finished the bloody table either. Got the ends clean and some of the top edges rounded off with my plane, but I still need to get the damned thing flat and then round all the edges for the legs and stuff.

 

[nicoga3000]

Not really "DIY", but anyone here have a front load washing machine on their second floor? Our laundry room is upstairs...Our old front load needed to be replaced. It was ~12 years old and the drum broke. So we got a new one for a great price, but it's substantially larger than our old one. And holy FUCK does it vibrate.

I've done a ton of reading, and it sounds like these newer front loads need to be on a slab to avoid vibrations. Is that true? Are there any things I can do to try and get the vibrations down to a salvageable level?

 

[DBT85]

Vibrations are typically due to either the machine not being level/supported properly on the floor, or the slab inside falling apart over time.

My machine is on a tiled concrete floor and once set correctly, a coin could happily sit on edge while it's at full chunt. It's a Miele though so they use cast iron counterweights rather than concrete like most.

Make sure your feet are all in good contact, that the floor it's on is sound. Is it on carpet? Is it like this empty or when loaded up only? The machine should not move at all when you nudge it. If it can, it will.

 

[TheCochese]

Looking good fellas.

No pictorial update until tomorrow, but I finally got true dust extraction in the shop and I'm over the moon happy. The whole shop replacement has led up to this point.

 

[besada]

I'm making an Eye of Agamotto for a friend's costume. I did it using two pieces of 3/8" maple, cut the front grill work with the scroll saw and hollowed out a space inside with the router. Used a fourth of a wooden globe for the eye in the middle. It's gluing up right now, and then tomorrow I have to shape the outsides and paint the hole thing gold (which is the worst part for me).

Have some spoon commissions coming up for the holidays, including a possible new one today. Also, my wife, who is more mechanically minded than I, tuned up my band saw today, and it cuts like a dream. So I'll probably dump some spoons in progress photos in a day or so.

 

[GhaleonEB]

Drawer fronts attached. I really did how it looks, and Bridget picked a good layout that flows well, with the darker elements on top and transitioning into the more clear boards on the bottom. There's one drawer where I wish I'd glued up differently, as you can see the line in it, but the others worked out really well.

Amazing how many jigs and tools pile up doing something as seemingly simple as this.

Everything went fine but one side of one drawer, with sticks out by 1/4".

I think the drawer guide on the bottom is off a touch, causing it to slide in at a diagonal. (Other drawers fit fine in the same slot, but that drawer is off a bit in any position. The drawer is perfectly square.) Gonna fix it tomorrow once I diagnose it.

And then attach the top, which is just parked there right now.

 

[Cheerilee]

Not really "DIY", but anyone here have a front load washing machine on their second floor? Our laundry room is upstairs...Our old front load needed to be replaced. It was ~12 years old and the drum broke. So we got a new one for a great price, but it's substantially larger than our old one. And holy FUCK does it vibrate.

I've done a ton of reading, and it sounds like these newer front loads need to be on a slab to avoid vibrations. Is that true? Are there any things I can do to try and get the vibrations down to a salvageable level?

Washing machine hoses tend to burst (even the armored ones, apparently), and when they're on an upper floor they cause way more damage than they do when they're in the basement.

If possible, I would move the laundry room down to the basement.

 

[GhaleonEB]

Not really "DIY", but anyone here have a front load washing machine on their second floor? Our laundry room is upstairs...Our old front load needed to be replaced. It was ~12 years old and the drum broke. So we got a new one for a great price, but it's substantially larger than our old one. And holy FUCK does it vibrate.

I've done a ton of reading, and it sounds like these newer front loads need to be on a slab to avoid vibrations. Is that true? Are there any things I can do to try and get the vibrations down to a salvageable level?

We had major vibration issues with our front loaders, which are in a ground floor laundry room with long joists running across to support the floor. My wife and I added a pair of posts and beams under it, in the crawl space, and completely stopped the floor from vibrating. But as you're on a second floor, I'm not sure that will be an option.

As Cheerilee said, upstairs laundry rooms are a really bad idea. It can be costly to move it downstairs but that might be a better option, depending on the house/layout situation.

 

[nicoga3000]

Washing machine hoses tend to burst (even the armored ones, apparently), and when they're on an upper floor they cause way more damage than they do when they're in the basement.

If possible, I would move the laundry room down to the basement.

Unfortunately, the house was built with the upstairs laundry in mind. Our previous front loader was not an issue. The problem is that the newer units spin SO much faster.

The floor has a drain built in, so IF a pipe burst, there is drainage built into the room.

E: And to GhaeleonEB's comment...There's literally no place to put them on our downstairs layout. It would be an absolutely option if it were, but it is what it is.

Vibrations are typically due to either the machine not being level/supported properly on the floor, or the slab inside falling apart over time.

My machine is on a tiled concrete floor and once set correctly, a coin could happily sit on edge while it's at full chunt. It's a Miele though so they use cast iron counterweights rather than concrete like most.

Make sure your feet are all in good contact, that the floor it's on is sound. Is it on carpet? Is it like this empty or when loaded up only? The machine should not move at all when you nudge it. If it can, it will.

The unit makes good contact on the tiled floor...But I can nudge it a bit. I will tinker with the casters a bit to see what's up.

 

[TheCochese]

Unfortunately, the house was built with the upstairs laundry in mind. Our previous front loader was not an issue. The problem is that the newer units spin SO much faster.

The floor has a drain built in, so IF a pipe burst, there is drainage built into the room.

E: And to GhaeleonEB's comment...There's literally no place to put them on our downstairs layout. It would be an absolutely option if it were, but it is what it is.



The unit makes good contact on the tiled floor...But I can nudge it a bit. I will tinker with the casters a bit to see what's up.

It could be that the unit is resting between floor joists, and that will lead to more vibration. I would say if possible to use blocking between the joists if you have access to pull out the ceiling below.

I’d try something like this first, though.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Anti-Vibration-Pads-4-Piece-WX17X10001DS/202212328

 

[nicoga3000]

It could be that the unit is resting between floor joists, and that will lead to more vibration. I would say if possible to use blocking between the joists if you have access to pull out the ceiling below.

I’d try something like this first, though.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Anti-Vibration-Pads-4-Piece-WX17X10001DS/202212328

Would removing the unit from the included pedestal help? I deseign elevated storage tanks...Seismic vibrations are more pronounced the higher the mass. Single mass DOF etc etc etc.

So does that same concept apply here? Bring the unit off the pedestal and try and anti-vibration mat/foot?

 

[TheCochese]

Would removing the unit from the included pedestal help? I deseign elevated storage tanks...Seismic vibrations are more pronounced the higher the mass. Single mass DOF etc etc etc.

So does that same concept apply here? Bring the unit off the pedestal and try and anti-vibration mat/foot?

It’s absolutely worth a shot, those pedestals never really seemed like they were real robust, and you’re right about a taller mass. Trying this won’t cost you anything but maybe an hour moving things around if it doesn’t work.

If it does work, you could always try a more robust riser if you need the height or storage.

 

[TheCochese]

I need to build the new clamp rack, bring those over, install the right side of the miter saw station and the air compressor. Otherwise, the shop is operational right now.

Some people may think having a TV and a computer in the shop is dumb, but it's important to me and they are in the best spot they've ever been.

For the first time in my life I was able to use a level to install something on a wall in the shop.

Hand tool corner is done until the cabinet is built.

Quite a bit of the design for the shop was based on this purchase. Been waiting five years.

Still have a gap in the attic (need to buy another full sheet of OSB), so I ran this temp expandable hose down for tool usage. Can reach anywhere in the shop.

Don't get anywhere near a plastic bag, hose connector, or anything less than about two pounds or you'll need to go upstairs and retrieve it. If you sucked up a screw, you'll hear it.

While I was testing the dust extraction I made a simple little shelf for my free Chromebox to sit on behind the monitor. Pocket screw installation.

Attic just not quite tall enough, but this will be fine for now. Will work on a custom mount including two stage separation later.

Full tour coming soon.

 

[Fuzzy]

You never replaced that receptacle you drilled into?

 

[TheCochese]

I've got one on the bench to go in this afternoon.

 

[kennah]

I think it adds character.