I have the poor man's version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PQP12NI/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It works pretty well actually.
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DIY |OT| "Can We Fix It?"
- Thread starter bennywhatever
- Start date
I have the poor man's version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PQP12NI/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It works pretty well actually.
TheCochese
Banned
Might be my best investment as far as tools go. If you get one, swap out the track for a longer one or a LR32 rail, if you ever think you might ever start using that system. Dealers should do that for you at the cost difference.
Coming up to what I consider the second most worrying part of the build, wall framing. I need to refresh my memory on corners and rough openings this week.
Applesauce
Boom! Bitch-slapped!
I'm using a 20V dewalt and part of an old bed frame for a straight edge lol. It's why breaking down sheet goods is the worst part of any project I do. I should probably get something like that for the time being, I think I saw something similar to that at Harbor Freight, and it will give me an excuse to go buy more clamps. You can never have too many clamps!
Hey Cochese do you also have their dust collection unit? I have always wondered if those things were worth what the sell them for.
TheCochese
Banned
Yes, I have the Midi. It's great, but it is super pricey. I got mine as part of a refurb sale. I don't use the speed control quite as much as I used to, but love the automatic on. I do like that it takes up a lot less room than my WD1450 Ridgid.
It is nice for taking places as well.
I also have the small Domino, a couple of sanders, the LR32 kit, the MFT. The saw was the gateway drug. Too bad it wasn't free.
TheCochese
Banned
Window headers made. Unfortunately here comes the rain, and I don't know if anything will get done this weekend.
TheCochese
Banned
Sweet design on the table.
This is about capacity for my CRV.
You don't realize how tall eight feet is until you stand it up for the first time. Extra foot over my current shop.
Was hoping to get the facing wall framed out before it got dark, but it started pouring out of nowhere. I've got the top plate on and attached to all the studs here. Need to put in the remaining window header, cripple and jack studs. Then the bottom plate, second top plate, and then it can go up.
Hoping to have all four walls up tomorrow.
This is about capacity for my CRV.
You don't realize how tall eight feet is until you stand it up for the first time. Extra foot over my current shop.
Was hoping to get the facing wall framed out before it got dark, but it started pouring out of nowhere. I've got the top plate on and attached to all the studs here. Need to put in the remaining window header, cripple and jack studs. Then the bottom plate, second top plate, and then it can go up.
Hoping to have all four walls up tomorrow.
Coffee Table complete
I won't list the imperfections
Really nice work. Never tell people about your mistakes
All it does is spoil their enjoyment of a piece they'll probably never notice has flaws.TheCochese, looks like your shed is coming along nicely.
Ghaleon, is that dresser for your chickens? Have they so taken over your life that you're building furniture for them now?
I'm gearing up for the craft fair season. Already have one show looming. That means I'm mostly spending time on the scroll saw cutting out ornaments, and on the bandsaw cutting out spoon blanks. And sanding. All the sanding in the world. Even with power sanders and a dremel the ornaments have a bunch of spots that just have to be sanded by hand, so I've got my little sanding towel to catch dust in the living room, and I'm sanding while the wife and I watch TV
D
Deleted member 10571
Unconfirmed Member
I love that coffee table, wish I had the knowledge, room and tools to do something like that by myself. Huge props.
T.v
Member
Today and last Saturday reminded me why I hate Plumbing. Especially when dealing with existing situations. Hanging and connecting a small sink, which should be a quick project under normal circumstances turned into a bitch of a job. Wrong couplings, lack of space, a shitty existing situation and leakages screwed me over. Never worked with soldered copper pipe before either, which luckily is exactly as easy as it looks. So after 3 trips to the store more than it should have taken I finally fixed the crappy existing situation, soldered on some new copper and got everything hooked up.
These things never go as planned.
These things never go as planned.
TheCochese
Banned
Wall framing is done.
Tiling is one of those jobs I'd really rather pay someone to do. So much fiddly detail and loads of opportunities to mess it up. a pro will do it in a tiny fraction of the time, with a perfect finish.
Captain Tuttle
Member
TheCochese
Banned
Three windows. I'm going to toenail the trusses and then sister the ceiling joists to them and toenail those as well.
I thought about using brackets, but I don't see it giving a real advantage.
I thought about using brackets, but I don't see it giving a real advantage.
Eye for an Eye
Member
And you need to ensure you have the proper slope for drainage. Don't want a shower with standing water in it. As long as you've got it prepped well, it should cut some time off a pro doing it to save some money there.
Material for the dresser. I'm having it acclimate in the house for a week before I start working on it.
Tigerwood for the drawer fronts, pine for the sides and top, and poplar for the drawers. Drawer bottoms and back are 1/4 Baltic birch. My daughter came with me to the hardwood store and picked out both the type of wood and the specific boards, and had a blast in the process.
I also ordered a planer to get the material nice and flat, since most of it is 5/4 (one inch) and I want to take it down to 3/4 of an inch, and there's a slight cupping to most of it. This will be a bit of a gateway tool, enabling a lot of other projects.
Tigerwood for the drawer fronts, pine for the sides and top, and poplar for the drawers. Drawer bottoms and back are 1/4 Baltic birch. My daughter came with me to the hardwood store and picked out both the type of wood and the specific boards, and had a blast in the process.
I also ordered a planer to get the material nice and flat, since most of it is 5/4 (one inch) and I want to take it down to 3/4 of an inch, and there's a slight cupping to most of it. This will be a bit of a gateway tool, enabling a lot of other projects.
TheCochese
Banned
So, I've made a critical mistake. Or one on paper. I installed nine of the ten roof rafter assemblies and I'm not sure I have everything lined up. I should have gone a few more steps before I did this, and now I may have to pay with added and repeated steps.
I'll have to take some measurements and see if the assemblies are centered on the wall. If there's more than a quarter inch variance or so I may have to take them down or adjust in some manner.
So dumb.
I'll have to take some measurements and see if the assemblies are centered on the wall. If there's more than a quarter inch variance or so I may have to take them down or adjust in some manner.
So dumb.
If you have a sledge hammer, you can adjust how they set by a small amount (use a beater block). Otherwise a recip saw will be your friends.
And yeah, that sucks. I've made similar mistakes before.
TheCochese
Banned
I checked the overhangs, aside from two on one side they are pretty good. I'll try to adjust those and I should be okay.
Going to start putting up ceiling joists against the good ones tomorrow.
Going to start putting up ceiling joists against the good ones tomorrow.
TheCochese
Banned
I've been sitting here for the past day trying to figure out where to start the sheathing at the bottom. I have a 5.5" rim joist (basically), .75" PT plywood subfloor, bottom plate, 92-5/8 studs, double top plate. My sheathing is 96" long, to be installed vertically. The sides aren't an issue, but the front and back will need sheathing and exterior paneling extending up another four-five feet.
So, install bottom along the bottom of the bottom plate (leaving subfloor edge exposed) and nail into first top plate, and have the second course nail into the second top plate? Run a narrow course of sheathing at the bottom to cover the subfloor and some of the rim, then offset the exterior paneling down a bit to cover everything?
So, install bottom along the bottom of the bottom plate (leaving subfloor edge exposed) and nail into first top plate, and have the second course nail into the second top plate? Run a narrow course of sheathing at the bottom to cover the subfloor and some of the rim, then offset the exterior paneling down a bit to cover everything?
I suggest running the sheathing such that it overhangs past the subfloor by an inch or so, runs up the wall, and any additional sheathing goes above that. That way there are no breaks anywhere to go directly into the subfloor or bottom plates. (This is what I did for my shed.)
TheCochese
Banned
Yeah, the math does work there. It didn't earlier in my head.
TheCochese
Banned
Sheathing going up. Everything nice and square thus far.
VicDaMoan03
Member
I'm thinking about building a 16' x 30' game room addition to my home. The parts I'm planning to do my self (with help) are the framing/sheeting, Sheetrock, painting, flooring, and possibly roofing. Any tips?
What's your experience level? How tight is your budget? What is your timeline? Answer these for yourself in great detail.
I have learned to budget projects like that meticulously because costs can add up fast and cause surprises (the cost of the proper hardware gets me every time).
I've spent dozens of hours learning building methods from books and Youtube videos, but it took time for me to learn to spot good and bad advice / methods. So depending on your experience level, you'll want to spend time prepping.
Also, I'm assuming you'll be doing permitted work, but in case you didn't plan to, get a permit. The building department will help you make sure it's up to code and prevent most design mistakes.
VicDaMoan03
Member
I'm a weekend warrior DIYer with minimal experience. The biggest project that I've undertook is a 12' x 30' covered patio which came out well. I don't know how to do everything but im not afraid of some work or research (YouTube). Also my dad is an expert based on his work but I want to lean on him as little as possible.
Budget I'm looking to complete the project for around $30k.
I'll be getting a permit through the city. Currently working on getting some plans purchased and generated.
Thanks!
This is a rough sketch (not to scale) and a pic of where the addition would go.
TheCochese
Banned
Using this tape is super simple. Good thing, because I have some misplaced nails.
Applesauce
Boom! Bitch-slapped!
I'm making a cart for my weber kettle tomorrow just in time for NFL opening weekend. All of the wood for this was less than 50 bucks and I'm only going to need 4 tools.
I got the idea from Darbin Orvar's video on YT and modified it some. I really just made it longer and added the skirt around the top for appearance.
I got the idea from Darbin Orvar's video on YT and modified it some. I really just made it longer and added the skirt around the top for appearance.
Alrighty, time to put this thing through its paces. (The toy on the right, sadly not the toy on the left, for now.)
Gonna run some test material, get to know the planer, then go buy some furniture clamps and work on getting the stock for the carcass of the dresser milled down and glued up. Hoping to it together by EOD tomorrow, so I can start work on the drawers.
Applesauce
Boom! Bitch-slapped!
As long as you have the weber gold w/ the ash catcher there is no reason to worry about coals or embers hitting the wood.
Mine is all done, just need to sand off markings and then apply protection to the wood.
Jealous. I could really use a planer. It's make doing cutting boards economically feasible.
I just planed the stock for the dresser carcass and drawer fronts from 1" to 3/4", taking the rough saw marks out and removing a cup out of most of the wood in the process. Works wonderfully. I don't have a great place to store it so I plopped it on the floor and built supports on either side with stacks of plywood scraps.
I also created, and I'm not exaggerating, about 15 gallons of dust and chips. (I filled my 2.5 gallon shop vac to capacity 6 times.) Used it as mulch to suppress the weeds behind our box gardens.
Shit is messy.
Tomorrow I rip the material for the sides and top to size and work on the glue ups. (Bought three pipe clamps today to facilitate.)
TheCochese
Banned
I was able to grab a Dewalt 735x for a bit over $400 on BF a few years ago.
You don't want to run end grain through a planer, unless you really, really know what you are doing. What you want is a wide belt sander.
TheCochese
Banned
Well kids, I guess the lesson here is to not try and start sheathing when a hurricane is coming. In my defense, it wasn't coming here, it was going up the coast when I started on the sixth.
So, I was in a bit of a rush to try and get this thing buttoned up sufficiently. There were a few moments when I went into full panic mode. Like when I was up on an extension ladder by myself at 10pm on Sunday trying to get the flashing tape up - until I ran out a few minutes later.
I figured out that I couldn't put the roof up without having the attic floor in, so that was my first task.
This is what my old shop is, from the attic. The ground level is about the same between the two, so you can see I'm already well higher than I ever was.
Yeah, I got this up there myself. Working out is paying off.
Got the end panel up with the first run of sheathing. Here is my first mistake of the weekend, I meant to stagger the panels.
Fast forward to about 3pm on Sunday. I was so busy Saturday and Sunday that I didn't stop for pictures. This is with half the roof done.
I still had three large panels and six smaller panels to fill in at about 7pm last night. This was my panic moment. I got the roof panels up, but the fits aren't great (truthfully they aren't great all around the roof) so we'll see how this flashing tape holds up. I tried to save money by making the most use of the panels, but in the end mistakes led to probably the same amount and a worse fit in places. As such, I'll end up using felt on the roof anyway, and I actually may contract that out. I don't really have a suitable ladder for the terrain, and that's pretty high up for someone that is less than enthused about heights. Too many rocks and such on the ground for me to escape serious injury.
I'm just waiting for Irma to pass through tomorrow so I can see how badly my roof leaks, because like I said I ran out of tape. I hit the couple of big gaps with, you guessed it, duck tape. We'll see if it's at all of any use. The attic is almost completely floored in with a small space where I can get up on a ladder. It's OSB though, and hopefully it doesn't do too much damage before I can get some more tape up there (has to be a dry surface to adhere).
I spent far too much money in a short time frame, and I am physically broken. I have the get up and go of an 80-year old today.
So, I was in a bit of a rush to try and get this thing buttoned up sufficiently. There were a few moments when I went into full panic mode. Like when I was up on an extension ladder by myself at 10pm on Sunday trying to get the flashing tape up - until I ran out a few minutes later.
I figured out that I couldn't put the roof up without having the attic floor in, so that was my first task.
This is what my old shop is, from the attic. The ground level is about the same between the two, so you can see I'm already well higher than I ever was.
Yeah, I got this up there myself. Working out is paying off.
Got the end panel up with the first run of sheathing. Here is my first mistake of the weekend, I meant to stagger the panels.
Fast forward to about 3pm on Sunday. I was so busy Saturday and Sunday that I didn't stop for pictures. This is with half the roof done.
I still had three large panels and six smaller panels to fill in at about 7pm last night. This was my panic moment. I got the roof panels up, but the fits aren't great (truthfully they aren't great all around the roof) so we'll see how this flashing tape holds up. I tried to save money by making the most use of the panels, but in the end mistakes led to probably the same amount and a worse fit in places. As such, I'll end up using felt on the roof anyway, and I actually may contract that out. I don't really have a suitable ladder for the terrain, and that's pretty high up for someone that is less than enthused about heights. Too many rocks and such on the ground for me to escape serious injury.
I'm just waiting for Irma to pass through tomorrow so I can see how badly my roof leaks, because like I said I ran out of tape. I hit the couple of big gaps with, you guessed it, duck tape. We'll see if it's at all of any use. The attic is almost completely floored in with a small space where I can get up on a ladder. It's OSB though, and hopefully it doesn't do too much damage before I can get some more tape up there (has to be a dry surface to adhere).
I spent far too much money in a short time frame, and I am physically broken. I have the get up and go of an 80-year old today.
LeroyPantwether
Member
I want updates of this dresser. As someone who has taken apart and refinished tons of dressers this project is right up my alley. Super envious of your new toy too.
TheCochese
Banned
Thanks. We'll see about it actually being sealed up. When Irma came through there was a ton of water in the attic and had spilled over into the subfloor. A couple of days with the fan and the attic is dried out, and I think I've addressed all the roof issues. Hopefully.
Bought materials last night to make a door, or the beginnings of a door. At least a temporary one.
We just moved into our house in march. Shortly after that some jackasses went mudding in our yard, best the neighbors can figure is they thought the house was still vacant.
They ended up breaking two of our septic sprinkler heads. The septic company wanted 256 bucks just to replace those two heads.
Then when everything dried up there was a huge wet spot right in the middle, so wet i almost got my riding mower stuck. Turns out the assholes broke our underground lines for the septic as well, which we hadn't even gotten a quote on fixing.
also the septic people decided they wanted to put it in a straight line instead of asking us what we wanted. So we now had an opportunity to fix it.
only problem I ran into was the stupid trencher i rented from home depot broke about halfway through. Ended up hiring some guy to dig the rest. But put all the PVC in and got the heads for a whopping 16 bucks at a septic and well supply store around the corner. They were shockingly actually cheaper than home depot that wanted 21 bucks per sprinkler head.
They ended up breaking two of our septic sprinkler heads. The septic company wanted 256 bucks just to replace those two heads.
Then when everything dried up there was a huge wet spot right in the middle, so wet i almost got my riding mower stuck. Turns out the assholes broke our underground lines for the septic as well, which we hadn't even gotten a quote on fixing.
also the septic people decided they wanted to put it in a straight line instead of asking us what we wanted. So we now had an opportunity to fix it.
we made it into a T and now we're going to plant trees strategically so the septic water is watering them.
only problem I ran into was the stupid trencher i rented from home depot broke about halfway through. Ended up hiring some guy to dig the rest. But put all the PVC in and got the heads for a whopping 16 bucks at a septic and well supply store around the corner. They were shockingly actually cheaper than home depot that wanted 21 bucks per sprinkler head.
I'm making slow progress. The material for the sides, top, bottom and drawer fronts are planed down. The sides and top are glued up and cut to final size, with the bottom glued up last night; I'll unclamp it when I get home and cut it to final size.
Tonight I'll cut and assemble the pedestal base, and start to assemble the shelves and runners the drawers will sit on.
Tomorrow will be a sanding-fest as I polish up the top and sides ahead of assembling the carcass this coming weekend. Then it's onto drawer construction. (Saving for after the carcass is built so I can accommodate the small dimension and design tweaks that happen as I go.)
Right now it's still just a few glued panels and stacks of lumber, but I'll post pics once I begin any assembly.
I managed to fuck up planing the material, switching sides before I had a perfectly flat bottom on a couple of the boards. So there's a ~1/16 bow in the sides still. It took out 75% or more of what was there so still a huge improvement, and I'll be able to accommodate it, but it was sad to see a newbie mistake given the investment. But that's how it goes.
Bridget has been warned her dresser is going to have some of her father's signature project "character".
I am the least DIY capable person in the world.
But I just rescreened and entire screened in porch all my self. Husband is in Texas so it was up to me. Felt good though I'm exhausted.
Sure it's an easy job for most of you but the bastard screen he bought was Barely wide enough so much tears and redoing was required. Yay me.
But I just rescreened and entire screened in porch all my self. Husband is in Texas so it was up to me. Felt good though I'm exhausted.
Sure it's an easy job for most of you but the bastard screen he bought was Barely wide enough so much tears and redoing was required. Yay me.
I could use some advice.
I'm pretty happy with the dresser design and the build progress, but before I start assembly I want to close one last worry.
The runners are a structural element that holds the sides together. In my design the bottom drawer slides on the bottom, so there's not an extra inch or so taken up by a runner.
But I'm worried that will make the connection between the bottom of the dresser and the sides too weak.
The current design has it being a rabit joint, so the sides of the dresser hide the end grain of the bottom. Like so:
Since they lap 3/8", that's not enough room to screw into from the bottom, just glue and tack with my brad nailer. Any thoughts on how to reinforce this without losing more internal space?
(The bottom pedestal, which I'm about to go work on now, will have mitered corners, I was just too lazy to do it in the drawing.)
I'm pretty happy with the dresser design and the build progress, but before I start assembly I want to close one last worry.
The runners are a structural element that holds the sides together. In my design the bottom drawer slides on the bottom, so there's not an extra inch or so taken up by a runner.
But I'm worried that will make the connection between the bottom of the dresser and the sides too weak.
The current design has it being a rabit joint, so the sides of the dresser hide the end grain of the bottom. Like so:
Since they lap 3/8", that's not enough room to screw into from the bottom, just glue and tack with my brad nailer. Any thoughts on how to reinforce this without losing more internal space?
(The bottom pedestal, which I'm about to go work on now, will have mitered corners, I was just too lazy to do it in the drawing.)
TheCochese
Banned
You're going to be fine, because your toe kick is going to be the structural support for the weight. The glue is going to be the strongest part of the joint anyway. A lock rabbet would give you even more glue surface.
Thanks. I haven't done a rabbit joint before so I wasn't sure, though I heard they were strong. I'll roll with it. Thanks!
TheCochese
Banned
Updates from the last couple of days. Getting some simple doors going.
Frame for the doors. 2x6 on the lock side.
Dominos with screws acting as temp clamps.
Hinges are designed not to back out.
LP Smartside in redwood pattern. This is the hardest wall, because I'm trying to get the doors to line up with the other panels.
Got the locks in, but it's not yet secure. Need to put a stem lock at top and bottom of the right door and mortise the locks on that door too.
Unlike my current shop, these doors stay open. Tells me everything is nice and level. Inside of the doors will be rigid foam and something to put over that as well for storage.
This weekend: finish the doors and windows go in.
Frame for the doors. 2x6 on the lock side.
Dominos with screws acting as temp clamps.
Hinges are designed not to back out.
LP Smartside in redwood pattern. This is the hardest wall, because I'm trying to get the doors to line up with the other panels.
Got the locks in, but it's not yet secure. Need to put a stem lock at top and bottom of the right door and mortise the locks on that door too.
Unlike my current shop, these doors stay open. Tells me everything is nice and level. Inside of the doors will be rigid foam and something to put over that as well for storage.
This weekend: finish the doors and windows go in.