Support NeoGAF

[Kyonashi]

So my first build was in May 2013 in a BitFenix Prodigy case with a Radeon 7870, and after some motherboard issues late last year I ended up replacing my motherboard and CPU. Now with all the current graphics card hype I'd like to get a new card too. Not to run anything too extensive, mostly Overwatch, Final Fantasy XIV and League of Legends, but I'm considering a VR purchase down the line. Would be nice to run things at 1440p 60fps in a fairly high quality, so I'm looking at a GTX 1070 and a new monitor.

Budget is probably about £500.

Current part list is:
CPU: Intel Core i5 4690 3.5GHz Quad Core 1150 Socket Processor
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/AC Intel 1150 Mini ITX with WiFi
SSD: Samsung EVO 850 500GB
RAM:Crucial CT102464BA160B DDR3 240 Pin 1.5V PC3-1600 CL11 Unbuffered UDIMM Memory Module - 8 GB
Graphics Card: XFX Radeon HD 7870 2GB - Core Label
Case: BitFenix Prodigy Black
PSU: Thermaltake Smart 530W 80 plus
Monitor: Samsung S22B150 21.5 inch Widescreen LED Monitor - (1920x1080 HD)

As I said, monitor and graphics card are the things I'm looking to replace here, and most likely going for a GTX 1070 unless anyone has any decent reasons why something else may be a better fit. When it comes to monitors I'm not entirely sure what I need regarding IPS, G-Sync or any of that jazz, so any suggestions very welcome.
I've been looking at a few like these, but honestly can't tell which would be decent and what the price range includes? I'd probably be happier with a smaller size screen that looks better than a large one, although superwide is tempting.

Acer XG270HU 27"
BenQ GW2765HT 27"
Acer Predator GN246HLBbid 24"

Thanks!

 

[Agent_4Seven]

I've been planning to buy a SSD and use it to install and play games. What's the best option available in terms of TBW, read / write speed, 4K read / write IOPS and cost per GB?

Thanks.

 

[Knch]

I'm replacing the motherboard in my PC. Is there anything I need to do with Windows before I start tearing things out? I heard the Windows 10 license is tied to the hardware, but I should be able to transfer the license to the "new computer". Am I wrong?

I just did the exact same thing.

Maybe link in to your microsoft account just to be sure? (Log in once in the store for example)

Also, unless it is exactly the same motherboard, you will have to reïnstall windows from scratch. When it asks for a key, simply click on the "I don't have a key" link and upon completing the install just go to the computer properties screen to verify that Windows is activated. (If not, try logging in with the already mentioned microsoft account.)

 

[Momentary]

When I went to their store to actually see the darn thing they were pretty to the point: These desks aren't cheap because it comes with a plethora of bells and whistles: Hand made to your liking and a designer will come to your home and look what could be done to maximize your purchase.

Crazy, but I know the desk I'll buy if I win the lottery.

I'm actually thinking about rolling by their San Diego store next week to see if they have a.... "used" section or something. Some of these high end stores have like 50-70% off on things they can't sell. 70% off of 4500 bucks. Still expensive as hell, but I can handle 1200-1300 better than 5K.

Did you actually go to the physical store? I'm guessing you didn't see any discounts there? Or is EVERYTHING made to order?

 

[e90Mark]

I've been planning to buy a SSD and use it to install and play games. What's the best option available in terms of TBW, read / write speed, 4K read / write IOPS and cost per GB?

Thanks.

Something from Crucial, besides the BX200.

The Samsung 850 EVO if you can find it on sale.

 

[LordAlu]

Ballpark figure for what I should pay for a build like that? Forgot to mention it has a 500gb SSD too. (Which is obviously not really enough for games).

Well, used pricing wise the CPU itself would be between £150 and £200, plus £30 for the memory and £100-£120 for the SSD. Just those parts alone would be £280-£350.

 

[RGM79]

This is more of 'editing pc' related but anyway.

I've added a 4GB stick of RAM so that I am now currently at 2GB/2GB/4GB. Is the 4GB being useful at all? (Do I truly have 8GB RAM?) I don't understand dual channels and symmetries enough to know myself.

Yes, you do have 8GB total. Are you still running into issues with limited RAM or does it seem like nothing has changed? You can look at your system properties window to see how much RAM is installed, or run a program like HWInfo to see more detailed specs about the RAM you have installed. Whether not the RAM is being useful or not depends solely on whether you're running programs that are using up RAM or not.

So will I be fine with my i5-4690K for another couple years? I'll be buying a GTX 1080 ASAP as I play a lot of VR games and that should give me a nice performance boost. So far I can typically max things out and hit 30-45 fps @ 1080p in the most graphic intensive games. Won't be making the jump to 4K for at least another year or two.

Specs:
Gigabyte Z97X-SLI
i5-4690K
GTX 970
16 GB RAM
Windows 10

Yeah, I see no reason for the i5 4690K to be obsolete already. It'll still be strong for years to come, especially if you overclock the processor. It's not too far behind the i5 6600K, which is the latest.

Here is my current rig, recently upgraded from 4670k on z87 and 8gb ddr3.

CPU: i7 6700k
CPU Cooler: Corsair h110i
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VIII Hero
RAM: 16gb HyperX Fury DDR4 2400
GPU: Msi GTX 980 Twin Frozr
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB SSD
Storage: Toshiba 1TB HDD
PSU: EVGA Supernova 850G2
Case: Corsair Air 540
Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Stealth
Mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
Monitor: Acer Predator XB271hu

I am properly excited about pascal. I am finding it very hard not to jump in on a 1080 like I did 2 years ago for my 980. I can't think if a reason not to right now apart from the lingering thought of the Ti being released a few months later.

Should I dive in on a 1080, wait for the Ti, or possibly just get another 980?

That depends on how much you want to spend and what sort of performance you're looking for. Thinking of selling your GTX 980?

Thanks for the fantastic breakdown OP, I tried building a PC with most of the same parts as the "Excellent" build on a PC parts retailer's website, just for reference/as a quick 10-minute exercise, since I'm looking into building a new PC next year.

Couple questions for all you experts: how's the Fractal Define R4 vs the Define S? The store I looked at seems to only stock the latter.

Also, would it make sense with this kind of build to swap the CM Hyper 212 EVO for a Corsair H55 Hydro, just for the sake of OC performance vs noise?

E: I'm also looking into changing monitors, and would love to experience >1080p resolution, >24-inch screen AND >60Hz refresh rate, but don't have the cash for a screen that does both well. I've been looking into the AOC Q3277PQU (32-inch WQHD, 60Hz) and it seems like a really good monitor with excellent value that would at least give me two out of the three things I want. Since I'm planning on a GTX 1070 in my next build I figure it would be good for 2K60fps for a while. Anyone have experience with that monitor? What would your suggestions be?

Also I live in continental Europe, which means I don't necessarily have access to some of the brands you US/UK/Oz GAFers do.

It's been two pages, figure I can bump this.

The Define R4 is kind of old at this point. It's been replaced by the newer Define R5. The Define S is similar to the R5 and can be considered a lower priced and more minimalist version with fewer features. Given the choice, I'd opt for the Define S over the R4 unless you need the extra drive bays that the R4 offers.

If you ever intend to overclock, I wouldn't recommend the Corsair H55. If you're worried about noise levels, the 212 Evo isn't terribly loud to begin with and the Fractal Define line of cases will help muffle any noise. I'd just stick with the 212 Evo.

Sorry, no experience with that monitor.

 

[Peterthumpa]

So, the definitive solution to keyboard/mouse comfy couch gaming?
http://www.razerzone.com/ca-en/store/razer-turret

Really interested in this. Any reviews?

 

[Justinh]

That looks interesting actually. How does it compare to the G9 in terms of feel?

I know I'm a couple days late here, but I went from mainly using a G9 (G700s for when I wanted wireless) to mainly using a G303 (G900 when I want wireless). The G303 feels so perfect for me.

Even without the weights the G303 is much lighter than the G9, and from what I remember the G9 had a frustrating middle click. Also, the button clicks are so damn good and that's on top of the great sensor in it (same as the G502 and G900). Problem is that so many people have reported on overclock that their sensors rattle and cause jittering while moving. Mine doesn't but I saw some people say that theirs hadn't until using it for a few months. There seems to be a fix you can do by shoving a little piece of paper into a crevice in the bottom but that seems really shitty that you'd have to do that. All I'm sayin' is keep your receipts.

Also, some people have said that after using it for a while, they started having pains in their wrist. So if it's not working out for you immediately, I'd probably return it. It works for me I think because I use a fingertip grip on it like I did on the G9. Although the front side-button is a little annoying to press.

So, the definitive solution to keyboard/mouse comfy couch gaming?
http://www.razerzone.com/ca-en/store/razer-turret

Really interested in this. Any reviews?

I haven't used it, but I've moved from a very high sensitivity while gaming to a much lower sensitivity while gaming and I can tell that that little pad is way too small for me.
Also (again, haven't used it), those keys don't look very pleasant to use from the promotional video I saw.

There seems to be some reviews on youtube, but I've never heard of these guys...

 

[Joco]

As suggested, the problem is likely the RAM.
Run HCI memtest to test RAM. You need 1 instance per 2gb of ram. Test around 80% of your total ram.

Well after 6 instances I didn't get a single error. Although after more browsing online some people were saying the ram was the cause of the problem even though memtest didn't show any errors. I ordered some ram of a different make off Amazon just to swap out and see if that fixes anything.

Anything else I should be trying?

 

[Vuze]

Well after 6 instances I didn't get a single error. Although after more browsing online some people were saying the ram was the cause of the problem even though memtest didn't show any errors. I ordered some ram of a different make off Amazon just to swap out and see if that fixes anything.

Anything else I should be trying?

Got a spare PSU lying around?

I had several BSODs and appcrashes during gaming and rendering (IRQL, pagefault etc) that were ultimately caused by a defective PSU. Nothing in the crash dumps ever pointed to it (well, I don't think that's possible anyway), so I swapped RAM, CPU, bought a secondary SSD to install Win8 on to see if that helps... horrible weeks and months really since I couldn't enjoy games without the fear of a BSOD or leave my PC rendering afk lol

Finally the fan of that PoS gave up, I RMA'd it and bought a high quality EVGA PSU to hold me over. Haven't had one single BSOD ever since *knock on wood*
The PSU really was the last thing I suspected as the culprit since everything pointed to RAM/CPU at this point.

Fun fact: My brother had the same PSU and it failed after about 18 months for him as well, his PC didn't even boot up anymore. I gave him my spare PSU from the RMA and now, after a few months of using it, he's also at the BSOD/appcrash stage.

I don't know what the fuck is up with "be quiet!" PSUs but three PSUs failing within two/three years time is just nuts. I'll never buy from them ever again. Should rename their brand to "ffs pls work properly for once!". It wasn't particularly quiet either

 

[Nyteshade517]

I'm going to try and build my own PC in the coming months so I suspect I'll be paying attention to this thread a lot and will ask questions as needed. Right now the PC I want to build is very similar to what's in the OP with some minor differences here and there. Hopefully I can catch some deals on the different components so I can save some money as I go along.

 

[RGM79]

I'm going to try and build my own PC in the coming months so I suspect I'll be paying attention to this thread a lot and will ask questions as needed. Right now the PC I want to build is very similar to what's in the OP with some minor differences here and there. Hopefully I can catch some deals on the different components so I can save some money as I go along.

Are you planning to buy parts over a long period of time? Unless it's an exceptionally good deal, it's better to try and buy everything within a week or two. Buying certain parts early allows the warranty and return period to run out earlier. Certain components like the motherboard and graphics card are more likely to fail or be DOA compared to other parts, and it's usually a lot easier to return/exchange with the retailer (little to no proof of purchase or defect is required, usually there's a 30 day return period, sometimes shipping is covered) than dealing with the manufacturer's warranty (burden of proof is on you, pay your own shipping).

E.g., you don't want to buy a motherboard early and only find out two months later that it's defective.

Certain parts are usually fine to buy early, though. They may also have an extremely low failure rate. For example, it's safe to buy cases, air coolers, or monitors and other peripherals because you can inspect them for damage and you can check to see if they work without needing to assemble the entire PC. Most RAM companies offer lifetime warranty on memory modules so those are alright as well.

 

[Nyteshade517]

Are you planning to buy parts over a long period of time? Unless it's an exceptionally good deal, it's better to try and buy everything within a week or two. Buying certain parts early allows the warranty and return period to run out earlier. Certain components like the motherboard and graphics card are more likely to fail or be DOA compared to other parts, and it's usually a lot easier to return/exchange with the retailer (little to no proof of purchase or defect is required, usually there's a 30 day return period, sometimes shipping is covered) than dealing with the manufacturer's warranty (burden of proof is on you, pay your own shipping).

E.g., you don't want to buy a motherboard early and only find out two months later that it's defective.

Certain parts are usually fine to buy early, though. They may also have an extremely low failure rate. For example, it's safe to buy cases, air coolers, or monitors and other peripherals because you can inspect them for damage and you can check to see if they work without needing to assemble the entire PC. Most RAM companies offer lifetime warranty on memory modules so those are alright as well.

Yeah...some of the stuff I would try to buy early if I saw a deal good enough (like the case, any fans, maybe the PSU, etc)

I know the rest of the stuff I'd have to wait to buy together from one place (or from different places depending on if there's any deals at that time)

 

[Joco]

Got a spare PSU lying around?

I had several BSODs and appcrashes during gaming and rendering (IRQL, pagefault etc) that were ultimately caused by a defective PSU. Nothing in the crash dumps ever pointed to it (well, I don't think that's possible anyway), so I swapped RAM, CPU, bought a secondary SSD to install Win8 on to see if that helps... horrible weeks and months really since I couldn't enjoy games without the fear of a BSOD or leave my PC rendering afk lol

Finally the fan of that PoS gave up, I RMA'd it and bought a high quality EVGA PSU to hold me over. Haven't had one single BSOD ever since *knock on wood*
The PSU really was the last thing I suspected as the culprit since everything pointed to RAM/CPU at this point.

Fun fact: My brother had the same PSU and it failed after about 18 months for him as well, his PC didn't even boot up anymore. I gave him my spare PSU from the RMA and now, after a few months of using it, he's also at the BSOD/appcrash stage.

I don't know what the fuck is up with "be quiet!" PSUs but three PSUs failing within two/three years time is just nuts. I'll never buy from them ever again. Should rename their brand to "ffs pls work properly for once!". It wasn't particularly quiet either

Unfortunately I don't have a spare PSU but if swapping the ram doesn't do anything I might try that next. My PSU is a Cooler Master which seems to be a very reputable brand, but then again every company ships some defective units. Thanks for the tip.

 

[xHiryu]

What do you want to achieve? This thread makes everyone question their build but sometimes upgrades aren't necessary or aren't good value for your use case. Eg if you're gaming at 60fps then a 3570k should be still fine, and you can just upgrade the GPU for now. Consider overclocking though - you have a great cooler and should be able to easily get decent improvements. It isn't hard these days - I don't have a handy link but I'm sure someone will have a link to a good guide.

It's a pretty solid rig. Unless it's not doing something you want it to do then don't change a thing. If you do upgrade then maybe just go for an i7 3770k and a 1080. Everything else is worth holding on to for a while yet.

Of course if you have the cash I would always say go for the newest and best parts. For you it would mean new MOBO, CPU, GPU, + RAM. Could get very pricey very quickly. If you go for 6700k, decent z170 mobo, 16gb ddr4 and a 1080 you are knocking on $1000.

I'm focusing mainly on 1080p gaming at a solid 60fps with everything maxed. Although I know that the 1080Ti is most likely going to be overkill for 1080p, I would plan on down-sampling from 1440p and even 4K on some older titles. I think spend some time in researching how to overclock especially since it seems like 3570K is capable of hitting 4GHz easily. Thanks for the input guys, glad to know my PC is still a bit futureproof.

 

[Hopeford]

Finally upgrading season for me! I'm doing okay RAM wise, but GPU and CPU both have got to go I think. And my hard drive but I'm gonna be okay with that.

Question though, what should I replace first?

a) CPU (currently i3450, 3.1ghz)[Also no idea what to upgrade this to, so I'd appreciate CPU suggestions]

b) GPU(currently 660ti)[going for a 1070 as an upgrade]

c) 'Get both at once or it won't even matter' kind of option.

Also one thing I'm considering is just getting a new case...I remember that last time I upgraded this thing it was already super cramped, might be the time to get a case that fits everything a bit better. I never transferred a PC from one case to another before, is it generally an annoying process?

 

[Jakartalado]

Still with HD 6870 - 1Gb and Phenom X6 1090T 3.2 Ghz

I think it's time to move on and buy a 1070 GTX!!!!

I'm thinking about selling my Xbox One and get one since Gears of War 4 and Forza will be available for PC. Just hope to see Halo 6 for the Windows 10 too. Does it sound a good deal?

Is the 1070 GTX enough to play games at 1440p with a 21:9 monitor at 60 FPS max settings (Forza Apex, Overwatch, Killer Instinct? not gona ask about Quantum Break since it's a bad port)?

 

[Vuze]

Still with HD 6870 - 1Gb and Phenom X6 1090T 3.2 Ghz

I think it's time to move on and buy a 1070 GTX!!!!

I'm thinking about selling my Xbox One and get one since Gears of War 4 and Forza will be available for PC. Just hope to see Halo 6 for the Windows 10 too. Does it sound a good deal?

Is the 1070 GTX enough to play games at 1440p with a 21:9 monitor at 60 FPS max settings (Forza Apex, Overwatch, Killer Instinct? not gona ask about Quantum Break since it's a bad port)?

You'll have to wait for the 1070 benchmarks, we don't know how the card performs yet
Alternatively, since the card reportedly plays in 980 Ti/Titan X area, you could check out how these cards perform at your desired resolution. Though I think I heard Forza Apex doesn't support 21:9 (yet? A no brainer for a racing game, really).

 

[mikespit1200]

What do you all recommend for Comfy Couch Mouse and Keyboard? I have my PC hooked up to my 50" in my game room and I want to play some overwatch, but the DS4 is not cutting it. Is there some solution for KB+M on a couch?

 

[The Teachinator]

I'm looking to sell my old PC...

It's in a Hadron case, 4690k processor, 256gb SSD, on a gigabyte H board(don't ask), 16 GB of RAM...

What would be a fair price to ask for this basic setup?

 

[Shifty Capone1]

yeah i need some help, i have never built a PC before so i was looking for some help

i'm looking to spend about $2k (inducing new monitors, mouse and keyboard) and i need some help.

i'm guessing going off the PC build sheet a good start but i have never really done this before

What kind of monitor are you looking to get? With a budget like that, that is going to be the factor that matters. If you're going for 1080p only, $2k will be more than enough.

 

[ekgrey]

Why not just keep your current SSD as an OS drive and add another SSD for storage? Saves you reinstalling Windows or imaging/restoring your drive. You can just tape it to the inside of your case somewhere, don't need a bay,

Sorry, I wasn't clear. Yeah, I'm definitely just adding a larger SSD (and maybe an HDD) but will keep my current MX100 as a boot drive.

 

[Cruz]

for my first build am going all out. What do you guys think ? Anything to change or lookout for ?
1080 founders edition
Intel i7 -6700k
Crucial 16 GB 2X8
Corsair graphite 760t ft wn wt atx
Samsung 500 gb SSD
EVGA GQ 650W 80+G SM ATX PSU
Gigbabyte GAZ170XGaming7 1151 ATX
Blue ray player
Windows 10
Coolmaster hyper 212 evo univ HSF

 

[e90Mark]

for my first build am going all out. What do you guys think ? Anything to change or lookout for ?
1080 founders edition
Intel i7 -6700k
Crucial 16 GB 2X8
Corsair graphite 760t ft wn wt atx
Samsung 500 gb SSD
EVGA GQ 650W 80+G SM ATX PSU
Gigbabyte GAZ170XGaming7 1151 ATX
Blue ray player
Windows 10
Coolmaster hyper 212 evo univ HSF

Any reason you're going with a full tower? matx/itx is all the rage these days.
All out would be using a G2 PSU, or higher, fully modular

 

[lostsupper]

Any reason you're going with a full tower? matx/itx is all the rage these days.
All out would be using a G2 PSU, or higher, fully modular

And a nicer cooler.

 

[Gumbie]

Asus 980ti Matrix for $560 worth it? Trying to decide if I want to get it or wait for a aftermarket 1080.

 

[Cruz]

Any reason you're going with a full tower? matx/itx is all the rage these days.
All out would be using a G2 PSU, or higher, fully modular

i had a freind make this up for me. So can you recommend a tower and psu please ?

 

[ACE 1991]

Man, my new 980ti sounds like a damn jet engine when being worked. Is that normal? So fucking loud. hate it. Overwatch maxed out at 1440p is killing my ears

 

[Cruz]

And a nicer cooler.

what would you recommend?

 

[opticalmace]

Man, my new 980ti sounds like a damn jet engine when being worked. Is that normal? So fucking loud. hate it. Overwatch maxed out at 1440p is killing my ears

Make a custom fan profile? And check the fan for dust if you've had it a while.

 

[kennah]

Asus 980ti Matrix for $560 worth it? Trying to decide if I want to get it or wait for a aftermarket 1080.

No way, not with the 1070 expected to be as fast and $100 cheaper. Hell, 980 Tis are currently selling for $450 CANADIAN.

 

[SmartWaffles]

Any reason you're going with a full tower? matx/itx is all the rage these days.
All out would be using a G2 PSU, or higher, fully modular

And a non-power/cooling crippled 1080. Wait for AIB ones, really.

 

[ACE 1991]

Make a custom fan profile? And check the fan for dust if you've had it a while.

Nah it's a very new GPU. Hm. Would getting a case focused on silence help a lot?

 

[Cruz]

And a non-power/cooling crippled 1080. Wait for AIB ones, really.

am sorry i really didnt get that? What do you think i should change?

 

[opticalmace]

Nah it's a very new GPU. Hm. Would getting a case focused on silence help a lot?

If it's your video card making the noise, not really.

 

[SmartWaffles]

am sorry i really didnt get that? What do you think i should change?

Founders Edition 1080s are expensive but they are not good enough to warrant that price. The power input is not enough to support overclocking and reference cooler is simply bad. Wait for third party models with better cooling solution and more power (6+8pin at least).

 

[e90Mark]

i had a freind make this up for me. So can you recommend a tower and psu please ?

It's really personal preference. Probably would go mATX if this is your first build.
Which would also mean getting an mATX motherboard.

There just's no real reason to go full tower, unless you're doing some crazy watercooling or actually need the space.

You can stick with EVGA, just step up to their G2 line for PSUs, or higher.

what would you recommend?

For a cooler, you can go up to a higher Noctua air cooler. The 212 is fine, but there's definitely higher end options.

Also you could consider an AIO water cooler, if you wanted.

And a non-power/cooling crippled 1080. Wait for AIB ones, really.

am sorry i really didnt get that? What do you think i should change?

SmartWaffles is talking about the Founders Edition being crippled.

 

[kuYuri]

Man, my new 980ti sounds like a damn jet engine when being worked. Is that normal? So fucking loud. hate it. Overwatch maxed out at 1440p is killing my ears

You're the one that got it on clearance at MC, right? Wonder if that's the reason it was originally returned..

Which model 980 Ti out of curiosity?

 

[e90Mark]

You're the one that got it on clearance at MC, right? Wonder if that's the reason it was originally returned..

Which model 980 Ti out of curiosity?

I wonder if it's EVGA.

My previous 980Ti had a bad fan, where once the fan curve ramped up to about 70%, one of the fans would stop spinning. Making the working one having to spin at 100% pretty much once the card started to heat up.

It was loud.

 

[appaws]

i had a freind make this up for me. So can you recommend a tower and psu please ?

And let me also add that even if you decide to go with a big Corsair case (nothing wrong with that, BTW) you should go with the 780T, which improves on the 760T somewhat.

Look through the cases in the OP, or watch some case reviews on Youtube (like HardwareCanucks channel) and see if any of them look awesome to you.

NZXT, Fractal Design, Phanteks, etc. also make great lines of cases...you could look through their websites.

 

[Hecatonchires Custom]

Dp0po you still have your old PC on hand? Or perhaps another PC that you can temporarily connect the hard drive to? There are very simple programs that can read the hard drive and display the key associated with the Windows installation on it.

You may not need to buy a new copy of Windows. As long as you have the license key and it's a retail version of Windows, you can probably contact Microsoft and they will help you activate Windows on the new PC.

Yeah, it's not a retail version so I'm basically fucked, right?

 

[Flakster99]

I've been waiting to build a new gaming PC for years and i think it's about that time. Looking to spend roughly $1200, not including the video card or monitor.

Here is my rough first draft, as you can see I'm over my total by about $150. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($443.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($68.98 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($164.99 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($94.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($87.90 @ Vuugo)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Rosewill 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.45 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($114.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1322.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-25 23:27 EDT-0400

 

[lostsupper]

what would you recommend?

Noctua NH-U14S or NH-D15

 

[SmartWaffles]

I've been waiting to build a new gaming PC for years and i think it's about that time. Looking to spend roughly $1200, not including the video card or monitor.

Here is my rough first draft, as you can see I'm over my total by about $150. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($443.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($68.98 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($164.99 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($94.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($87.90 @ Vuugo)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Rosewill 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.45 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($114.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1322.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-25 23:27 EDT-0400

Unless you really need it, get rid of the optical drive. You can also cut some cost on memory (DDR4 2400 should suffice), cooler (a good air cooler works too), and PSU (850W is overkill unless you are going multi GPU).

 

[Agent_4Seven]

Something from Crucial, besides the BX200.

The Samsung 850 EVO if you can find it on sale.

I think I'll go for 850 EVO 500GB. Crucial BX100 costs like ~5000 RUB more right now. As for sales... heh, there's almost no such thing as hardware sales here in Russia like say Amazon deals in the US / UK for example, which is a goddamn shame 8(

 

[NeOak]

Asus 980ti Matrix for $560 worth it? Trying to decide if I want to get it or wait for a aftermarket 1080.

Nope. Someone I know scored a Zotac 980Ti AMP! Extreme for $450.

 

[DJ88]

What do you all recommend for Comfy Couch Mouse and Keyboard? I have my PC hooked up to my 50" in my game room and I want to play some overwatch, but the DS4 is not cutting it. Is there some solution for KB+M on a couch?

I would love to know this as well.

 

[selfconfessedcynic]

What do you all recommend for Comfy Couch Mouse and Keyboard? I have my PC hooked up to my 50" in my game room and I want to play some overwatch, but the DS4 is not cutting it. Is there some solution for KB+M on a couch?

I would love to know this as well.

I personally just use a Billy glass extra shelf from IKEA and put it across the armrests of an armchair (I use a wireless kb/mouse).

For a less ghetto solution, check this out; Corsair Lapdog Review

 

[DOT DASH DOT]

Ok need some help fellas! After a new case, one that has 4 case USB's, room for 10.5" cards comfortably, and plenty of HDD bays, oh and a window panel, looking at a mid tower. Any suggestions?