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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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LilJoka

Member
Unfortunately I don't have a spare PSU but if swapping the ram doesn't do anything I might try that next. My PSU is a Cooler Master which seems to be a very reputable brand, but then again every company ships some defective units. Thanks for the tip.

Can you try BSODViewer as it usually says which DLLs causes the crash.
I don't think it's the PSU of your crashing on idle.
 
I've been waiting to build a new gaming PC for years and i think it's about that time. Looking to spend roughly $1200, not including the video card or monitor.

Here is my rough first draft, as you can see I'm over my total by about $150. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($443.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($68.98 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($164.99 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($94.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($87.90 @ Vuugo)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Rosewill 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.45 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($114.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1322.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-25 23:27 EDT-0400


Unless you really need it, get rid of the optical drive. You can also cut some cost on memory (DDR4 2400 should suffice), cooler (a good air cooler works too), and PSU (850W is overkill unless you are going multi GPU).

Actually I'd suggest you stick with the faster RAM (apparently there's a noticeable performance improvement in some games, notably Cryengine 3 games according to DF I believe), but I also think you could save some money on the PSU. If you're holding out for a 1070 or 1080 you could get by just fine with a 650W 80+ Gold and save $50.

E: you could save quite a bit if you went with an i5 6600K too.
 
I kept getting BSOD on my htpc. Looking g up the code told me to try updating my bios.

I did. Now I can't get the PC to display anything...

I thought that maybe the bios had just been set to dGPU and wasn't pushing video out on the iGPU so I moved my 290x over and tested. Still nothing.

I'm not getting any beeps, either, but I can hear the hard drives spinning up as it boots..


It has an A10-7850k paired with an ASRock itx mobo...

The bios splash screen isn't even showing.

I tried it with HDMI and VGA on both my TV and monitor.

So, I just ordered a cheap AM1 cpu/mono combo as a replacement. All I do on this thing is stream Netflix and Steam in home streaming.

Do any of you have any experience streaming with the Athlon 5350 APU?
 

RGM79

Member
I've been waiting to build a new gaming PC for years and i think it's about that time. Looking to spend roughly $1200, not including the video card or monitor.

Here is my rough first draft, as you can see I'm over my total by about $150. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($443.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($68.98 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($164.99 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($94.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($87.90 @ Vuugo)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Rosewill 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.45 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($114.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1322.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-25 23:27 EDT-0400

Here's an optimized version of your parts list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($443.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($36.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($163.66 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($85.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($80.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: BitFenix Nova ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($114.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1184.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-26 03:39 EDT-0400

There were some not so optimal parts choices you had at first, I'll explain them briefly.

The motherboard and case you chose work together, but the motherboard is a smaller mATX model while the case was of the larger ATX size. They will work together, but it's kind of odd to not be using all of the available space, or going with a case that is larger than it needs to be. Either go with a smaller case or a larger motherboard. I chose to substitute in a larger motherboard.

The Corsair H60 is alright, but kind of pricey for the performance. The 212 Evo air cooler is much cheaper and still capable of moderate overclocking, so that's better spent money especially when over your budget.

I found 2800MHz RAM that is cheaper by $10. Not a huge difference, but little by little we'll get the parts list under $1200.

Avoid the Kingston V300 at all costs. I'd recommend spending more for a more reliable and faster model like the Samsung 850 Evo.

The Bitfenix Nova is admittedly a budget case, but it'll get the job done. If you prefer other cases, feel free to pick something else. I also swapped the overkill 850 watt PSU for a still high quality 650 watt model, which is more than capable of powering any single graphics card. I have no idea what graphics card you plan to put into the PC, so these two items could change depending on what you're going to get.

Removed the DVD drive. If you still need to use DVDs, add it back to the list.

Yeah, it's not a retail version so I'm basically fucked, right?

It was an upgrade to an existing installation of Windows 7/8/8.1, I'm guessing? Those are more or less meant to be tied to the hardware it was installed on, as Microsoft intended for those licenses of Windows 10 to be upgrades for existing PCs already running older versions of Windows, not for new PCs. Go look at this link, specifically the part at the bottom that says "Activating Windows 10 after a hardware configuration change". You might not have to buy a new Windows license, there's no harm in asking Microsoft to help you activate it. Just try to tell them that it's an upgrade rather than a whole new PC.

Ok need some help fellas! After a new case, one that has 4 case USB's, room for 10.5" cards comfortably, and plenty of HDD bays, oh and a window panel, looking at a mid tower. Any suggestions?

How much are you thinking of spending? The Fractal Define R5 comes to mind.
 

Justinh

Member
Ok need some help fellas! After a new case, one that has 4 case USB's, room for 10.5" cards comfortably, and plenty of HDD bays, oh and a window panel, looking at a mid tower. Any suggestions?

What's your budget? How many is "plenty of HDD bays?" I'm not one with my ear to the ground when it comes to pc components anymore, but I don't think I've seen a case with 4 usb ports on the front.

The case I have though, is a case I love. It's the Corsair C70. It has 6 3.5 HDD bays that are the easy slide-in ones (effing eff the old screw-in cages type) but you could always get an adapter to put a couple in the 5.25 inch bays too. I have a couple SSDs in one 3.5 in HDD bay with an adapter. It's a mid-tower, and it has a window.

There might be many cheaper options out there as this one is 110 USD, but this is the only one I've had some experience with and I friggen love it. Plus: it has handles (every case should have handles, you'll know why when you need/want them and don't have them!)

Oh! I'm seeing a few full-tower with 4 usb 3 ports on front, but they look really expensive...

This one seems to check most if not all boxes. 6 3.5in bays. 2 usb3 and 4 usb2 ports, has a window (sort-of), and is a mid tower that can fit that size GPU.
Reviews seem good, no experience with it though...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107
 

Joco

Member
Can you try BSODViewer as it usually says which DLLs causes the crash.
I don't think it's the PSU of your crashing on idle.

After more searching online I tried using the driver verifier feature to stress test the drivers, upon restarting this caused the computer to crash in a BSOD loop so I did a complete restore, although I believe this wiped the previous logs. However I have little doubt I'll encounter the errors again, in which case I will post them here.

It seems likely this is the result of a driver issue, no?
 

GRaider81

Member
I'm looking to upgrade to skylake soon.

Can anyone recommend a good mini ATX motherboard? I'll likely be overclocking when 1080ti comes and I'll be getting an i7 6600k.

I have an MSI z97 gaming MB at the moment so something similar but possibly cheaper would be good.

Also how easy is it transferring Windows 10 licence? I have a bought version if that helps.

Thanks
 
So i've read that the Skylake could not support heavy cooler and that it tends to bend under their pressure. I have a Noctua NH-D14 on my 2600k will i have to change it if i buy a skylake ?
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I have a bitfenix prodigy which I think is mini ITX? if I wanted to upgrade the motherboard/CPU/Ram to a 6700k with 16GB, what would be a recommended motherboard and roughly how much would that bundle cost (UK prices). Don't need onboard wifi or Bluetooth, just a simple, solid board that'll support overclocking. I have a corsair h60i for the CPU - will that work on the new socket and will I be enough to keep a 6700k cool or should I use something else? Pump noise can be annoying so something quieter would be good

Id sell my existing 3570k/h77n/16GB to offset so if the delta isn't too much I might go for it. (I just sold my 970 to wait for a 1070 so I'm not gaming at the moment anyway, so seems a good time to consider a switch)
 

ACE 1991

Member
You're the one that got it on clearance at MC, right? Wonder if that's the reason it was originally returned..

Which model 980 Ti out of curiosity?

I wonder if it's EVGA.

My previous 980Ti had a bad fan, where once the fan curve ramped up to about 70%, one of the fans would stop spinning. Making the working one having to spin at 100% pretty much once the card started to heat up.

It was loud.


Yeah, it is an EVGA FTW edition. I don't think a bad fan. Could be a mix of hot weather and fan curve... just surprised that Overwatch maxed out is really working it that hard. Game makes the fans kick in really hard to keep the GPU to about 82 degrees.
 
Here's an optimized version of your parts list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($443.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($36.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($163.66 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($85.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($80.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: BitFenix Nova ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($114.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $1184.53
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-26 03:39 EDT-0400

There were some not so optimal parts choices you had at first, I'll explain them briefly.

The motherboard and case you chose work together, but the motherboard is a smaller mATX model while the case was of the larger ATX size. They will work together, but it's kind of odd to not be using all of the available space, or going with a case that is larger than it needs to be. Either go with a smaller case or a larger motherboard. I chose to substitute in a larger motherboard.

The Corsair H60 is alright, but kind of pricey for the performance. The 212 Evo air cooler is much cheaper and still capable of moderate overclocking, so that's better spent money especially when over your budget.

I found 2800MHz RAM that is cheaper by $10. Not a huge difference, but little by little we'll get the parts list under $1200.

Avoid the Kingston V300 at all costs. I'd recommend spending more for a more reliable and faster model like the Samsung 850 Evo.

The Bitfenix Nova is admittedly a budget case, but it'll get the job done. If you prefer other cases, feel free to pick something else. I also swapped the overkill 850 watt PSU for a still high quality 650 watt model, which is more than capable of powering any single graphics card. I have no idea what graphics card you plan to put into the PC, so these two items could change depending on what you're going to get.

Removed the DVD drive. If you still need to use DVDs, add it back to the list.



It was an upgrade to an existing installation of Windows 7/8/8.1, I'm guessing? Those are more or less meant to be tied to the hardware it was installed on, as Microsoft intended for those licenses of Windows 10 to be upgrades for existing PCs already running older versions of Windows, not for new PCs. Go look at this link, specifically the part at the bottom that says "Activating Windows 10 after a hardware configuration change". You might not have to buy a new Windows license, there's no harm in asking Microsoft to help you activate it. Just try to tell them that it's an upgrade rather than a whole new PC.



How much are you thinking of spending? The Fractal Define R5 comes to mind.

What's your budget? How many is "plenty of HDD bays?" I'm not one with my ear to the ground when it comes to pc components anymore, but I don't think I've seen a case with 4 usb ports on the front.

The case I have though, is a case I love. It's the Corsair C70. It has 6 3.5 HDD bays that are the easy slide-in ones (effing eff the old screw-in cages type) but you could always get an adapter to put a couple in the 5.25 inch bays too. I have a couple SSDs in one 3.5 in HDD bay with an adapter. It's a mid-tower, and it has a window.

There might be many cheaper options out there as this one is 110 USD, but this is the only one I've had some experience with and I friggen love it. Plus: it has handles (every case should have handles, you'll know why when you need/want them and don't have them!)

Oh! I'm seeing a few full-tower with 4 usb 3 ports on front, but they look really expensive...

This one seems to check most if not all boxes. 6 3.5in bays. 2 usb3 and 4 usb2 ports, has a window (sort-of), and is a mid tower that can fit that size GPU.
Reviews seem good, no experience with it though...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107

Probably about $200, I know 4 USB's are difficult to find, but it's what I have now.

I have 2 3.5" drives and 2 SSD's, I have a Bitfenix Raider at the mo, but it's definitely seen better days.
 

Flakster99

Member
Thank you everyone who replied, i appreciate the feedback and ill make good use of it. Cutting costs and spending wisely isn't so easy when you haven't built a PC in years hehe.

I will be purchasing a 1070 eventually as well. I'll need to purchase thurmal paste as well. Will any brand do or is there a best brand out there that i should value over others. Thanks again.
 

Joaopbp

Neo Member
Hi guys

Im building my new rig and all its left to pick up is the case.
I can´t decide between Fractal Midi R2 or Define S.

Any sugestions which one should i pick?
Are any of them good with stock fans or should i pick more?

My specs are:

6600k
Cryorig H7 (not going water cooling anytime soon)
Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI
Gtx 770 (prob going 1070 in the future)
16gb
2 SSD
Seasonic M12II 620W
 

Hitmeneer

Member
I'm looking for a small upgrade, with a very limited budget.

Currently I have:

- 4GB ram
- AMD Phenom II X955 3.2 GHz
- ATI Radeon 5570 (my 8800 gt died a few years ago so I used a spare card I had....)

Currently I mostly play DOTA 2, Pillars of Eternity and Stellaris which all run quite ok. I played also some Planetside 2 and Heroes and Generals, but that was not doable during heavy fire fights. In the near future I am interested in playing Overwatch and Empire Total Warhammer. For me the most important thing is to play in native res, 1650 x 1080, at a reasonable fps (around 30).

My budget is between 150-200 Euro's.

Initially I was looking only at a new graphics card, but I noticed that for around 40 Euro's you already have 8 GB ram. So I was thinking maybe getting 8 GB ram (I currently have 2 x 2 GB ram, but I guess that will be quite slow compared to the ones available now as the pc is around 8 years old or something) and then spending 150 for a new graphics card, where the NVIDIA GTX 950 seems to be the most likely choice?

Any recommendations or?
 

appaws

Banned
I'm looking for a small upgrade, with a very limited budget.

Currently I have:

- 4GB ram
- AMD Phenom II X955 3.2 GHz
- ATI Radeon 5570 (my 8800 gt died a few years ago so I used a spare card I had....)

Currently I mostly play DOTA 2, Pillars of Eternity and Stellaris which all run quite ok. I played also some Planetside 2 and Heroes and Generals, but that was not doable during heavy fire fights. In the near future I am interested in playing Overwatch and Empire Total Warhammer. For me the most important thing is to play in native res, 1650 x 1080, at a reasonable fps (around 30).

My budget is between 150-200 Euro's.

Initially I was looking only at a new graphics card, but I noticed that for around 40 Euro's you already have 8 GB ram. So I was thinking maybe getting 8 GB ram (I currently have 2 x 2 GB ram, but I guess that will be quite slow compared to the ones available now as the pc is around 8 years old or something) and then spending 150 for a new graphics card, where the NVIDIA GTX 950 seems to be the most likely choice?

Any recommendations or?

I don't think a 950 is what you are looking for...AMD is better for price/performance at the lower end. Maybe a few more bucks can get you an R9 380....?

You can get an MSI one with a rebate right now for $149 US...and 29.99 for 8gb of DDR3....

Of course I don't know where you can buy stuff where you are...or how a Euro compares to a Dollar.
 

ACE 1991

Member
Anyone have experience with EVGA's rebates? I'm submitting the rebate that came with my recently purchased 980ti and I only have the receipt emailed to me from microcenter. Should printing this out along with the UPC and rebate form be sufficient?
 
I'm looking for a small upgrade, with a very limited budget.

Currently I have:

- 4GB ram
- AMD Phenom II X955 3.2 GHz
- ATI Radeon 5570 (my 8800 gt died a few years ago so I used a spare card I had....)

Currently I mostly play DOTA 2, Pillars of Eternity and Stellaris which all run quite ok. I played also some Planetside 2 and Heroes and Generals, but that was not doable during heavy fire fights. In the near future I am interested in playing Overwatch and Empire Total Warhammer. For me the most important thing is to play in native res, 1650 x 1080, at a reasonable fps (around 30).

My budget is between 150-200 Euro's.

Initially I was looking only at a new graphics card, but I noticed that for around 40 Euro's you already have 8 GB ram. So I was thinking maybe getting 8 GB ram (I currently have 2 x 2 GB ram, but I guess that will be quite slow compared to the ones available now as the pc is around 8 years old or something) and then spending 150 for a new graphics card, where the NVIDIA GTX 950 seems to be the most likely choice?

Any recommendations or?

You desperately need more RAM, save a little bit more for a R9 380 too.
 

LostDonkey

Member
I'm teetering on the edge of buying a new rig. But aren't there new chip announcements next month? End of June?

I'm not desperate for a new rig so would it be worth waiting or just pulling the trigger on a 6700k build.

Stuck what to do.
 

Momentary

Banned
That new 21:9 ASUS PG348Q isn't native 100hz.. You have to overlook it. That gives me enough pause to not purchase it. If I pay that much money for something AI don't want to sit there and fidget with settings. If the overstock is just the press of a button on the monitor then I'm overreacting.

Can anyone educate me on this. All the YouTube videos I've seen for this don't talk about how to overclock the monitor.
 

Raticus79

Seek victory, not fairness
Planning ahead for a 6950x upgrade when they're available. How are things looking for X99 motherboards? Anything interesting coming up?

Was wondering if the extra PCI-E lanes on the Asus X99 WS boards are worth it vs any features on Rampage that would be missed (any significant OC differences?). I'll be carrying over two Titan X.

The extra cores are for multiboxing games and playing around with UE4 dev.

I'm teetering on the edge of buying a new rig. But aren't there new chip announcements next month? End of June?

I'm not desperate for a new rig so would it be worth waiting or just pulling the trigger on a 6700k build.

Stuck what to do.

Should be getting the reveal on May 31. Not sure about when they'll be available to buy.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
How would this be for a skylake upgrade - mini ITX, all prices from scan for now

- Gigabyte GA-Z170N - £110
- CMK16GX4M4A2400C16 - 16GB (4x4GB) Corsair DDR4 Vengeance LPX Black, PC4-19200 (2400), Non-ECC Unbuffered, CAS 16-16-16-39, XMP 2.0, 1.2V - £66
- i7-6700k - £280
Total : £450

Any particular reason to go with a higher priced motherboard?

I'd reuse my H60 assuming it'd still fit (is currently on a 3570k)nut would be open to suggestions for a quiet cooler (either air or water)
 
With the current gen consoles getting re-releases, I am thinking of just migrating completely to PC. I am a bit sour towards consoles now. I have not really ever done PC gaming. This PC will be a primary work machine, as well.

So, I don't really know too much, but I was thinking of trying to spend $1,000 to $1,500. I can put the machine together, of course. I was wondering, though, can anyone recommend some decent parts? I assume a $1,500 PC will be superior to a Neo or Xbox 1.5.
 
With the current gen consoles getting re-releases, I am thinking of just migrating completely to PC. I am a bit sour towards consoles now. I have not really ever done PC gaming. This PC will be a primary work machine, as well.

So, I don't really know too much, but I was thinking of trying to spend $1,000 to $1,500. I can put the machine together, of course. I was wondering, though, can anyone recommend some decent parts? I assume a $1,500 PC will be superior to a Neo or Xbox 1.5.

I feel the same way with consoles. I'm very put off by what Sony and Microsoft are doing. I've always been into PC gaming, but from now on I'm just going to go PC/Nintendo route. The only thing I feel like I would be missing out on is FF7r, but that's only exclusive for the debut.
 

Bydobob

Member
I'm teetering on the edge of buying a new rig. But aren't there new chip announcements next month? End of June?

I'm not desperate for a new rig so would it be worth waiting or just pulling the trigger on a 6700k build.

Stuck what to do.

I don't think you'll be missing out on much by taking the plunge now. By all accounts Kaby Lake is essentially Skylake with a lower base clock, with support for additional features that won't matter to gaming performance. 10nm won't be till next year's Cannonlake which is where we should see meaningful improvements.

Useful Intel roadmap here.
 

wowzors

Member
I don't think you'll be missing out on much by taking the plunge now. By all accounts Kaby Lake is essentially Skylake with a lower base clock, with support for additional features that won't matter to gaming performance. 10nm won't be till next year's Cannonlake which is where we should see meaningful improvements.

Useful Intel roadmap here.

To be fair broadwell-e might be worth a wait, but if he's going 6700k he probably doesn't have interest in 6 cores.
 

e90Mark

Member
I'm looking to upgrade to skylake soon.

Can anyone recommend a good mini ATX motherboard? I'll likely be overclocking when 1080ti comes and I'll be getting an i7 6600k.

I have an MSI z97 gaming MB at the moment so something similar but possibly cheaper would be good.

Also how easy is it transferring Windows 10 licence? I have a bought version if that helps.

Thanks
i5 6600k or i7 6700k?

Not a lot of "good" mATX z170 boards. All I can recommend is Gigabyte Z170MX and Asus Gene.
Yeah, it is an EVGA FTW edition. I don't think a bad fan. Could be a mix of hot weather and fan curve... just surprised that Overwatch maxed out is really working it that hard. Game makes the fans kick in really hard to keep the GPU to about 82 degrees.
I would just take a look anyway. It's hot where I am, and I can barely hear it under load in OW with both fans working in an mATX.
Overclocked my Acer -predator xb127hu to 165hz. There's no going back to 144hz once you experience 165hz.
Still waiting for the day ULMB is usable at 144
Anyone have experience with EVGA's rebates? I'm submitting the rebate that came with my recently purchased 980ti and I only have the receipt emailed to me from microcenter. Should printing this out along with the UPC and rebate form be sufficient?

That would be sufficient.
 

NIN90

Member
Hm, I think I'm in the market for a G-Sync monitor. I wanna stay at 1080p . Any recommendations?

TN panels are fine with me for what it's worth.
 

e90Mark

Member
Hm, I think I'm in the market for a G-Sync monitor. I wanna stay at 1080p . Any recommendations?

TN panels are fine with me for what it's worth.

There's only a couple of G-Sync 24" 1080p monitors.

G2460PG
XB241

There's a couple 27" ones, but I'm not really a fan of 1080 @ 27
 

RGM79

Member
So i've read that the Skylake could not support heavy cooler and that it tends to bend under their pressure. I have a Noctua NH-D14 on my 2600k will i have to change it if i buy a skylake ?

No, you don't have to change anything. The problem is that some people are overtightening the screws for their coolers and the processors are more likely to be bent out of shape during movement or transport because of the thinner substrate for the Skylake processors. Just don't overtighten it and you'll be fine.
 
Alright guys. I have 1000 burning a hole in my pocket.

I want to build a computer. Rather, my friend is going to build it.

Can you guys tell me what parts / software to buy? Only hard requirements are I need it to have a wireless adapter and be oculus compatable
 

gamma

Member
So I've just noticed that the temps on my 3570K reach around 90°C while gaming, sometimes even touching 100°C so that can't be good. It's running stock with the stock cooler.

So what cooler should I get? The 212 Evo? I saw that the successor 212X was also available. Also EKL Alpenföhn seems to be popular, anyone got experience with those?
 

Jyrii

Banned
Anyone know if TV's (I have Sony X850C) can display 1440p from PC, or do I have to either choose 1080p or 4K instead?
 

e90Mark

Member
So I've just noticed that the temps on my 3570K reach around 90°C while gaming, sometimes even touching 100°C so that can't be good. It's running stock with the stock cooler.

So what cooler should I get? The 212 Evo? I saw that the successor 212X was also available. Also EKL Alpenföhn seems to be popular, anyone got experience with those?

Have you ever replaced the thermal paste? Going to overclock?

The 212 Evo would do just fine, especially for the money.
 

Vuze

Member
So I've just noticed that the temps on my 3570K reach around 90°C while gaming, sometimes even touching 100°C so that can't be good. It's running stock with the stock cooler.

So what cooler should I get? The 212 Evo? I saw that the successor 212X was also available. Also EKL Alpenföhn seems to be popular, anyone got experience with those?
I can vouch for Noctua's NH-D14 (the D15 is a newer but slightly larger revision). Their support is also great.
One of the more expensive options though, I don't have experience with the Evo and Alpenföhn (though it'd fit your avatar :p).
 

gamma

Member
Have you ever replaced the thermal paste? Going to overclock?

The 212 Evo would do just fine, especially for the money.

Nah never replaced it lol. If I get a new cooler I might as well overclock so yeah. Any experience with the 212X? It seems do be just a few € more.

I can vouch for Noctua's NH-D14 (the D15 is a newer but slightly larger revision). Their support is also great.
One of the more expensive options though, I don't have experience with the Evo and Alpenföhn (though it'd fit your avatar :p).

Yeah I'm not even sure if they are available outside Germany/EU. But they are among the most popular on the site I'm comparing prices on.
 

K' Dash

Member
So I've just noticed that the temps on my 3570K reach around 90°C while gaming, sometimes even touching 100°C so that can't be good. It's running stock with the stock cooler.

So what cooler should I get? The 212 Evo? I saw that the successor 212X was also available. Also EKL Alpenföhn seems to be popular, anyone got experience with those?

Are you running stock clocks? my 2500K is OC'd to 4.5GHz and it doesn't go above 60°C playing Doom on Ultra 1080@60fps.

If you're going to overclock you need an aftermarket cooling solution, the Evo 212 Hyper is good.
 

Lucario

Member
Are you able to change the speed on the pump? Might be some air bubbles trapped.

What "stress testing" are you doing? P95 pretty much cooks everything, so I'm not exactly surprised you'd be seeing something like 100c at 1.4.

Was using the latest version of RealBench.

Pump speed is at maximum (forced in bios). Re-seated the heatsink and reapplied thermal paste ~3 times, it made little difference. Was able to get it to linger at 80C for a bit before jumping up to 100, but still hearing gross noises coming from the pump.

Bought an H100iV2 to replace it, and things are already much better. 4.6ghz @ 1.3V, caps out at 80C under load. Still hot, but at least it's not going to die. Plus it has a nifty purple LED!

Thanks for your help! I almost wonder if some coolant leaked out of the H60 at some point. It sounded like it was trying to push water that wasn't there.
 

_BtB_

Member
Is this thread specifically for pc building questions/problems? I have a few tech issues with my computer and not sure where to ask for help. thanks
 

Lucario

Member
Does anyone here do de-lidding who can guide me through the process, or possibly do it for me for a fee? I feel like I got lucky with this chip on everything but the temps.

Core 1 runs 10-15C hotter than the other three under load, regardless of how many times I re-apply my thermal paste. Tried X method, credit card method, double grain of rice, etc. Starting to think the thermal paste on the die was applied incorrectly.
IMPjPeT.jpg
Crappy build pic. Dat "buy everything on sale" aesthetic.
 
Does anyone here do de-lidding who can guide me through the process, or possibly do it for me for a fee? I feel like I got lucky with this chip on everything but the temps.

Core 1 runs 10-15C hotter than the other three under load, regardless of how many times I re-apply my thermal paste. Tried X method, credit card method, double grain of rice, etc. Starting to think the thermal paste on the die was applied incorrectly.

Crappy build pic. Dat "buy everything on sale" aesthetic.
Could you post your full specs? What are the actual temps on load, and how are you testing that?
 

LilJoka

Member
After more searching online I tried using the driver verifier feature to stress test the drivers, upon restarting this caused the computer to crash in a BSOD loop so I did a complete restore, although I believe this wiped the previous logs. However I have little doubt I'll encounter the errors again, in which case I will post them here.

It seems likely this is the result of a driver issue, no?

Possibly, never heard of a driver stress tester though, hopefully that's isn't malware.
 

Lucario

Member
Could you post your full specs? What are the actual temps on load, and how are you testing that?

Temps on load during my last run of RealBench (15min, 4GB) capped out at 85C for core 1, 69-77C for the others. Averaged ~75 for core 1, ~65 for the others.

Temps while gaming (overwatch, 1440p, ultra) cap out at around 65C for core 1, 50-55C for the others.

Haven't tried other tests.

Full specs:

Windows 8.1
i7-6700k @ 4.6, 1.3v
Sapphire Radeon HD 7970, very minor overclock
256GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W modular PSU
Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Corsair H100iV2 in push/pull with 120mm noctua fans in push, stock fans in pull
80mm Noctua output fan
Stock 120mm corsair output fan
 
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