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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
lostsupper
Banned
The Logitech G533 is better than the G933. You can find it new for $120. 15-hour battery life, super long range, really neutral frequency response.
So I started buying the individual parts to build my PC. For the CPU cooler, I was planing on getting a corsair h100 v2 but it's a little expensive. Is there a cheaper alternative that somehow offers similar performance? like 50-75?
Also, if anyone knows what tools(screwdriver types etc) that I'll need to build it, I'd appreciate if someone told me
Also, if anyone knows what tools(screwdriver types etc) that I'll need to build it, I'd appreciate if someone told me
Gunslinger
Member
Thanks bro. Really appreciate it.
That just came out? Any reviews you'd happen to recommend?
Gonna take a chance and order this: 16GB DDR4 Ram $57.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJB3ZPS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Taking the steps to upgrade my pc. I''m currently rocking a 3570K. Thinking of upgrading to a 6600, 6700, 7600, or a Ryzen 5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJB3ZPS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Taking the steps to upgrade my pc. I''m currently rocking a 3570K. Thinking of upgrading to a 6600, 6700, 7600, or a Ryzen 5
Sectorseven
Member
Usually ships within 2 to 5 months.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
I'll be setting up the new place I bought soon, and I want to have my lounge room laid out so that there is a small desk with my PC in one area, and it has a long HDMI cable leading to the TV elsewhere in the room.
I want to be able to play on the TV when it's convenient, and play on the monitor when it's not. But I don't want to fiddle with settings every time I switch or have to unplug a cable or what have you.
Is there a convenient way to have it so that basically when I switch to the correct input on the TV, my PC switches to that, and when I don't, it switches back to the monitor?
I want to be able to play on the TV when it's convenient, and play on the monitor when it's not. But I don't want to fiddle with settings every time I switch or have to unplug a cable or what have you.
Is there a convenient way to have it so that basically when I switch to the correct input on the TV, my PC switches to that, and when I don't, it switches back to the monitor?
texhnolyze
Banned
Anyone here connect their PC (and maybe a console) with a 4K TV?
What if I want to play at lower resolutions, like 1440p?
Will the TV adjust the native resolution accordingly?
I'm picking up a LG 43UF670T today. And I'm building a new PC with 6600k & 1060 combo next month. I doubt the setup will be able to play everything at 4K, so I'm not sure if I should get a 4K TV or not.
What if I want to play at lower resolutions, like 1440p?
Will the TV adjust the native resolution accordingly?
I'm picking up a LG 43UF670T today. And I'm building a new PC with 6600k & 1060 combo next month. I doubt the setup will be able to play everything at 4K, so I'm not sure if I should get a 4K TV or not.
I can wait. Not in a rush
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Stuff is amassing quickly. Down the f'ing home stretch. Almost time to start building!
ColdDeckEd
Member
If you can wait, wait on buying RAM as the prices are inflated due to memory chips being switched to 20nm. In a few months prices should go down. Buy your other components first.
You could have it plugged in all the time and then in Windows Display Settings just set it to mirrored. That way you get the same image on the TV as you do on the monitor, and you just switch off the one you're not using.
You can play at 1440p or 1080p on a 4K tv. I just created a custom resolution in nvidia control panel.
The tv will stretch the image for you automatically.
Filth
Member
Thanks bud. My house is generally cool and i plan on getting a new desk soon which will make me move things around. The temps inside the case are all very low. I tried removing the sticker on the monitor and it is insanely stuck Its as if the sticker is glued to the monitor and a guy who reviewed his omen showed when he pulled the sticker off he pulled the black finish off. Any tips for how to remove it ? Hair dryer ?
I've done something similar simply by hooking a HDMI cable from my Geforce to my AVR. Geforce is set to mirror the PC monitor to the TV. When I want to play on the TV I just turn on the AVR and TV.
This way it's also pretty easy to use the TV as 2nd screen, e.g. to watch youtube while playing CIV or show Spotify while working (I can see the TV from my desk).
Minor downsides: TV is 4K my PC monitor is 1440p so I only have 1440p on the TV as well. And I have to switch the audio output from the PC headset/speakers to the AVR manually (which is easy in Windows, basically 2-3 mouse clicks)
I found out that I almost never want to game on the TV though. Almost everything I play on PC I enjoy more sitting in front of a monitor. Having the TV as an aditional monitor is great though!
The TV shouldn't have any trouble with lower resolutions. Most stuff you watch on your 4K TV like regular television, BluRays etc doesen't run in native 4K. Might depend on your TV though. Just check reviews for the TVs upscaling capabilities.
I have my PC hooked up to my 65'' Bravia TV and running games in 1080 is no problem at all. One thing to consider is sound though. If you're used to gaming with your consoles hooked up to an 5.1 or 7.1 AVR the onboard sound of your PC that comes across the HDMI cable from your Geforce really can't compete.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Hmm about what I thought. Was hoping for a no fuss solution where it would all happen automatically but that seems unlikely.
If I set the TV to primary monitor, and then switch channel/turn off, will it revert to desktop monitor?
Bloodember
Member
You could use a HDMI switcher, I do and it switches automatically.
Can someone give me their kidney so I can sell it for this in near future?
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...first-fanless-chassis-for-high-perfo/#General
The price (if its around 600-700$ when its released) is not THAT bad if you think you will save by not buying cpu and gpu coolers etc.
Just hope that is future proof somehow enough that you can still use GPU and CPU in that after 10 and more years.
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...first-fanless-chassis-for-high-perfo/#General
The price (if its around 600-700$ when its released) is not THAT bad if you think you will save by not buying cpu and gpu coolers etc.
Just hope that is future proof somehow enough that you can still use GPU and CPU in that after 10 and more years.
hey_it's_that_dog
benevolent sexism
In my experience with this setup it will only switch automatically if the cable is unplugged. Doing stuff on the tv has no effect on whether the PC sends the signal there as far as I can tell.
I know it's not elegant, but I just use a wireless keyboard to switch if I'm on the couch already.
JonnyDBrit
Member
At the resolution the display is capable of? Not that great, unless a game is especially not demanding, or you turn the settings well down; even then you would probably be hovering between 30 and 50 fps at best. Even then I'd probably recommend playing at a lower resolution.
It's less fussy than it sounds actually. Especially when you only have two monitors (PC and TV) you can simply use WIN+P on the keyboard when you get up to sit in front of the TV.
I guess you could buy a remote controlled HDMI switch (as Bloodember pointed out) and control that with a programmable universal remote (eg. Logitech or maybe even sth. voice controlled like Alexa using IFTTT) but setting that up would be much more trouble imo.
Ok, I really need some help. I spend the last three evenings picking parts for a new PC and got lost a little deep down the rabbit hole. Hope some of you can spread some insight on the following:
I want is this: A new pc with a large enough case to fit in three existing 3,5 drives with data, an existing 5,25 blu ray drive, a card reader and one or two additional SSDs in the next 2-3 years. Planning to use 2 M.2 drives for OS and programmes and games/work.
I kinda narrowed things down to the ASUS Maximus IX Hero due to the number of USB ports on the back (the 5 most boards have won't do with the Oculus Rift).
Basically I have two things I just can't figure out:
1. The tomshardware review for the ASUS Maximus IX Hero mentions that I should find a case with the new USB 3.1 connector. Any ideas what cases have this type of connector and are large enough for the drives mentioned above including a 5,25 slot? What happens if I use a case w/o 3.1 connector? Will I not be able to hook up the front usb slots at all or will they just be slower?
2. Same review mentions that the board has 6 SATA Ports of which 1, 4/5 are shared w/M.2. What happens if I use the shared ports (e.g. 1 for the blu ray drive and 4/5 for 3,5 hdds that I do not use as often while having both M.2 slots occupied with the system and the gaming drive)?
Finally another question regarding network setup:
I have two internet connections (one with great bandwidth one with great ping, don't ask). If I get a board with two LAN ports and hock each one up to a different modem will I be able to use both connections simultaneously (eg. bandwidth from both)? Can I configure which connection to use for what applications (eg. slow/great pin for games, bandwidth for steam)?
Any help highly appreciated. Also thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread! It's a big help figuring out stuff the basic stuff for someone who hasn't build a pc in the last decade.
I want is this: A new pc with a large enough case to fit in three existing 3,5 drives with data, an existing 5,25 blu ray drive, a card reader and one or two additional SSDs in the next 2-3 years. Planning to use 2 M.2 drives for OS and programmes and games/work.
I kinda narrowed things down to the ASUS Maximus IX Hero due to the number of USB ports on the back (the 5 most boards have won't do with the Oculus Rift).
Basically I have two things I just can't figure out:
1. The tomshardware review for the ASUS Maximus IX Hero mentions that I should find a case with the new USB 3.1 connector. Any ideas what cases have this type of connector and are large enough for the drives mentioned above including a 5,25 slot? What happens if I use a case w/o 3.1 connector? Will I not be able to hook up the front usb slots at all or will they just be slower?
2. Same review mentions that the board has 6 SATA Ports of which 1, 4/5 are shared w/M.2. What happens if I use the shared ports (e.g. 1 for the blu ray drive and 4/5 for 3,5 hdds that I do not use as often while having both M.2 slots occupied with the system and the gaming drive)?
Finally another question regarding network setup:
I have two internet connections (one with great bandwidth one with great ping, don't ask). If I get a board with two LAN ports and hock each one up to a different modem will I be able to use both connections simultaneously (eg. bandwidth from both)? Can I configure which connection to use for what applications (eg. slow/great pin for games, bandwidth for steam)?
Any help highly appreciated. Also thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread! It's a big help figuring out stuff the basic stuff for someone who hasn't build a pc in the last decade.
If you have both your monitor and your TV plugged in to your computer (i.e. DVI monitor, HDMI TV), you can set Windows to produce the same image to both connections. Then you simply turn off the display you're not using.
Doing some work at your desk? Turn the TV off (or change the input to something else). Wanna play a game? Set your TV input to HDMI and turn your monitor off.
Nostremitus
Member
Übermatik;233006039 said:Clips? The ones you pull down/aside? One of them did, the other maybe didn't? Hard to tell, because...
...Nothing 'clicked'. It just sort of slotted. Pics all taken at same time. I honestly feel like I can't push it any further without breaking it. Help
Real quick, but did you make sure the notch on the RAM lined up so they aren't in upside down? That would stop them from going all the way in.
That's the guide I was following. I did set the vcore offset to +0.005 and the boost to +0.004 but nothing changed. Strange.
I've got another really strange issue - I'm getting nasty artifacts when watching videos, but not with gifs or games. I think it's a driver issue - when I run DDU and use only basic windows display drivers, there's no problem. Soon as I install Nvidia drivers, it comes back.
Temps and everything else look fine, no idea what's going on. I've tried the last three newest Nvidia drivers but no luck. Happens through Displayport and HDMI. Using a 144hz GSYNC monitor and a 1070. I installed a new motherboard and I'm wondering if that may have something to do with it.
Temps and everything else look fine, no idea what's going on. I've tried the last three newest Nvidia drivers but no luck. Happens through Displayport and HDMI. Using a 144hz GSYNC monitor and a 1070. I installed a new motherboard and I'm wondering if that may have something to do with it.
Try turning hardware acceleration on/off from browser, if you mean browser videos.
There was some problem with drivers doing that before but should not anymore I think.
Not just videos in browser - I downloaded some Youtube vids and the problem persists
blacklotus
Member
Guys, quick help:
Was going to buy this:
http://novoatalho.pt/ProductDetails.aspx?productid=31129
This just popped - deal for the day only:
http://www.novoatalho.pt/ProductDetails.aspx?productid=29485
Worth it?
Was going to buy this:
http://novoatalho.pt/ProductDetails.aspx?productid=31129
This just popped - deal for the day only:
http://www.novoatalho.pt/ProductDetails.aspx?productid=29485
Worth it?
Compared to the first, yes.
blacklotus
Member
Thanks!
RamaTheVoice
Member
Go for it!
metareferential
Member
Best solution is this. Keep everything connected and just channel through displays with WIN+P.
I have a similar setup with my monitor and projector always connected.
Johnny Cage In The Shower
Member
Just noticed this Best Buy sale. It's only on for today. Is this a good deal guys?
Would I be able to upgrade parts and components in the future? The case looks very tight and doesn't look upgradable, I wonder if it is??
Price is around $1,500 US dollars.
http://tinyw.in/DhGE
Would I be able to upgrade parts and components in the future? The case looks very tight and doesn't look upgradable, I wonder if it is??
Price is around $1,500 US dollars.
http://tinyw.in/DhGE
Can only compare my 1440p monitor to my 4K TV and don't think it's the same improvement as from 1080p to 1440p. Especially since it's hard to get 60fps at 4K. HDR was a similar jump for me though!
I've got a 4K HDR OLED, which is what made me ask the question. I don't see an improvement in sharpness going from the monitor to the TV, but admittedly, I haven't connected my pc to the TV. I have the PC set up in its own room with a 1440p gysnc monitor. I only comparing to my PS4 Pro on the 4K TV, which isn't the best comparison.
Is the MSI Z270 PC MATE a good Kaby Lake motherboard? does anyone use one?
I'm trying to find something for ~£100 that gives me enough headroom to keep for a while if I should choose to upgrade parts later. Probably just going to pair this with something cheap like a G4560 for now though.
I'm trying to find something for ~£100 that gives me enough headroom to keep for a while if I should choose to upgrade parts later. Probably just going to pair this with something cheap like a G4560 for now though.
Johnny Cage In The Shower
Member
Gsync is also a huge difference! You'll really miss it when you hook up the PC to the TV!
Alright GAF, strange issue here...
The 8 pin power cable for the top left ATX power connector on my mobo doesn't match the port.
There's rounded pegs where there's square holes. Now before you ask, yes it's the right cable and the right end - and it actually plugs in fine.
What I'm wondering is that maybe this is a backwards compatibility thing? Obviously if it was square pegs > round hole it wouldn't work, but my situation is round pegs > square hole.
Am I at risk? Wouldn't have thought either Corsair or Asus have messed up, but the lack of documentation has me a little worried.
Nonetheless, here are some answers to the same question:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answe...ector-doesnt-match-motherboard.html#r14796594
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum...atch-pin-connector-motherboard.html#r11162321
The 8 pin power cable for the top left ATX power connector on my mobo doesn't match the port.
There's rounded pegs where there's square holes. Now before you ask, yes it's the right cable and the right end - and it actually plugs in fine.
What I'm wondering is that maybe this is a backwards compatibility thing? Obviously if it was square pegs > round hole it wouldn't work, but my situation is round pegs > square hole.
Am I at risk? Wouldn't have thought either Corsair or Asus have messed up, but the lack of documentation has me a little worried.
Nonetheless, here are some answers to the same question:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answe...ector-doesnt-match-motherboard.html#r14796594
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum...atch-pin-connector-motherboard.html#r11162321
Hey GAF so I bought the Asus PG279Q for $780, it got delivered today. I also just went out and purchased 3 Acer XB271HU from Costco for $500 each. I'm testing each one right now for backlight bleed and dead pixel.
I only need 1, what should I do? keep one of the Acer monitor? or keep the Asus one? Help me. what do you think it's better?
I only need 1, what should I do? keep one of the Acer monitor? or keep the Asus one? Help me. what do you think it's better?
They are both pretty much the same, you are only paying for arguably better aesthetics with the Asus.
Keep whichever Acer has the least amount of backlight bleed, $500 for those monitors is a damn good deal.
digitalrelic
Banned
Anyone have any idea when we might be seeing Intel's 8700k processors? Looking at doing a full PC build in June/July, and would like to have the newest CPU available.