• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

I'm having a crazy time getting a 4k desktop to scale properly, and I think it may be a windows issue, but I'll ask just in case. I set my desktop to 4k and scaled everything to 225% so I can actually read text. It works well aside from everything but windows programs turning super blurry, or remaining so small that I can't see shit. 1080p looks alright for the desktop and the size of other programs, but it doesn't look nearly as good. Any ideas? I was hoping for the super nice desktop clarity, but running games at 1080p due to the 970's lack of power.
 

MazeHaze

Banned
I'm having a crazy time getting a 4k desktop to scale properly, and I think it may be a windows issue, but I'll ask just in case. I set my desktop to 4k and scaled everything to 225% so I can actually read text. It works well aside from everything but windows programs turning super blurry, or remaining so small that I can't see shit. 1080p looks alright for the desktop and the size of other programs, but it doesn't look nearly as good. Any ideas? I was hoping for the super nice desktop clarity, but running games at 1080p due to the 970's lack of power.

Check your nvidia control panel settings? I have a 980 and everything works fine, you might have to try a couple different settings.
 
Man, I think I've been sleeping on HDR+ special viewing mode.

I tried it way back a couple times just to see what it was like and thought it was pointless, but I remembered one single poster ITT saying they liked using it non-HDR games sometimes.

Felt like playing around with it the other day, so I tried it out with MGSV (PS4 Pro), a game I've played soooooo much that I know it's IQ like I know my own reflection. It's still kinda weird that you can't change gamma from 0 without it looking like negative film burn, and I was still kinda meh about it when I matched it close to my normal Movie or Game Mode settings but after I cranked up the color to 75 (which would be absolutely ridiculous for any other settings, and make everything way too cartoonish/saturated), changed it to Warm2 (I usually only use that on movies, rarely ever for games), and it really looked kinda neat.

Camo fabrics on Snake and enemy soldiers looked really rich and creamy, foliage in Afghanistan was looking slightly more vegetative, the dark skin option for D-Horse looked sweet, and the sandy waves and earthy color variation near some of the more open area bases was really decadent. The night though? That sealed the deal. Fire barrels and warmly lit rooms glowed with intensity, lights really looked more solid and present, and the overall visibility and legibility of the environment was better. Everything was super dark, looking like real night time, but not the crushed-black can't-see-anything kind of night, or the light-blue washed out fake night where visibility is max, but realism and color range is zero.

I've been using it for a couple days now, and I like it.

If you play MGSV and care to experiment with your TV at all, try these specific settings and deploy to the Phantom Limbs mission in Afghanistan or the Pitch Dark mission in Africa, something long enough to let the day/night cycle transpire. Olive Drab camo recommended for some punchy color.

Special Viewing Mode: HDR+

Backlight: 20
Brightness: 35
Contrast 100
Sharpness: 10
Color 75

Digital Clean View: Off

Auto Motion Plus: Custom
-Blue Reduction: 10
-Judder Reduction: 0
-LED Clear Motion: Off

Smart LED: High
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm2

Gamma: 0

Color Space: Auto

It's not a purist "as intended" IQ way to see a game, but different, kinda refreshing and pretty cool looking imho. I play the game so much it's like a poor man's mod, or some kind of weird down sampling effect. Looks pretty cool on BroForce and Dariusburst Chronicle Saviors too... gonna try it with other stuff.

I'm sure I'll end up using normal Movie and Game Mode 90% of the time, but I just have new found appreciation for that feature, whatever it's doing.
 

R-User!

Member
Man, I think I've been sleeping on HDR+ special viewing mode.

I tried it way back a couple times just to see what it was like and thought it was pointless, but I remembered one single poster ITT saying they liked using it non-HDR games sometimes.

Felt like playing around with it the other day, so I tried it out with MGSV (PS4 Pro), a game I've played soooooo much that I know it's IQ like I know my own reflection. It's still kinda weird that you can't change gamma from 0 without it looking like negative film burn, and I was still kinda meh about it when I matched it close to my normal Movie or Game Mode settings but after I cranked up the color to 75 (which would be absolutely ridiculous for any other settings, and make everything way too cartoonish/saturated), changed it to Warm2 (I usually only use that on movies, rarely ever for games), and it really looked kinda neat.

Camo fabrics on Snake and enemy soldiers looked really rich and creamy, foliage in Afghanistan was looking slightly more vegetative, the dark skin option for D-Horse looked sweet, and the sandy waves and earthy color variation near some of the more open area bases was really decadent. The night though? That sealed the deal. Fire barrels and warmly lit rooms glowed with intensity, lights really looked more solid and present, and the overall visibility and legibility of the environment was better. Everything was super dark, looking like real night time, but not the crushed-black can't-see-anything kind of night, or the light-blue washed out fake night where visibility is max, but realism and color range is zero.

I've been using it for a couple days now, and I like it.

If you play MGSV and care to experiment with your TV at all, try these specific settings and deploy to the Phantom Limbs mission in Afghanistan or the Pitch Dark mission in Africa, something long enough to let the day/night cycle transpire. Olive Drab camo recommended for some punchy color.



It's not a purist "as intended" IQ way to see a game, but different, kinda refreshing and pretty cool looking imho. I play the game so much it's like a poor man's mod, or some kind of weird down sampling effect. Looks pretty cool on BroForce and Dariusburst Chronicle Saviors too... gonna try it with other stuff.

I'm sure I'll end up using normal Movie and Game Mode 90% of the time, but I just have new found appreciation for that feature, whatever it's doing.

Sounds cool. Think I'll try it if/when I revisit V.
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
Man, I think I've been sleeping on HDR+ special viewing mode.

I tried it way back a couple times just to see what it was like and thought it was pointless, but I remembered one single poster ITT saying they liked using it non-HDR games sometimes.

Felt like playing around with it the other day, so I tried it out with MGSV (PS4 Pro), a game I've played soooooo much that I know it's IQ like I know my own reflection. It's still kinda weird that you can't change gamma from 0 without it looking like negative film burn, and I was still kinda meh about it when I matched it close to my normal Movie or Game Mode settings but after I cranked up the color to 75 (which would be absolutely ridiculous for any other settings, and make everything way too cartoonish/saturated), changed it to Warm2 (I usually only use that on movies, rarely ever for games), and it really looked kinda neat.

Camo fabrics on Snake and enemy soldiers looked really rich and creamy, foliage in Afghanistan was looking slightly more vegetative, the dark skin option for D-Horse looked sweet, and the sandy waves and earthy color variation near some of the more open area bases was really decadent. The night though? That sealed the deal. Fire barrels and warmly lit rooms glowed with intensity, lights really looked more solid and present, and the overall visibility and legibility of the environment was better. Everything was super dark, looking like real night time, but not the crushed-black can't-see-anything kind of night, or the light-blue washed out fake night where visibility is max, but realism and color range is zero.

I've been using it for a couple days now, and I like it.

If you play MGSV and care to experiment with your TV at all, try these specific settings and deploy to the Phantom Limbs mission in Afghanistan or the Pitch Dark mission in Africa, something long enough to let the day/night cycle transpire. Olive Drab camo recommended for some punchy color.



It's not a purist "as intended" IQ way to see a game, but different, kinda refreshing and pretty cool looking imho. I play the game so much it's like a poor man's mod, or some kind of weird down sampling effect. Looks pretty cool on BroForce and Dariusburst Chronicle Saviors too... gonna try it with other stuff.

I'm sure I'll end up using normal Movie and Game Mode 90% of the time, but I just have new found appreciation for that feature, whatever it's doing.

How does HDR+ look like for regular HD tv shows?
 
Any eta regarding the switch patch? I might throw it out of the window one day if I forgot to undock it and it interrupts my PS4 online MP.
 
I'm having a crazy time getting a 4k desktop to scale properly, and I think it may be a windows issue, but I'll ask just in case. I set my desktop to 4k and scaled everything to 225% so I can actually read text. It works well aside from everything but windows programs turning super blurry, or remaining so small that I can't see shit.

Is the problem just with certain older programs? If so that is probably just the way it is.

1) The clean way of handling High DPI desktop scaling is a relatively new feature for Windows compared to Mac or other OSs. Many older programs (or even recent ones built with older dev tools) don't support it and so Windows essentially just scales the original window output and applies some kind of smoothing filter to mitigate jaggies, hence the blurry appearance. You'll see this a lot with old game tools or emulators.

2) Some of them support it partially but not all the way, so for these you'll see some screen elements such as fonts that are the right size, and others like boxes or fields remain smaller. This causes the fonts to run together or run outside the boundary of their fields.

3) Finally, there are some Windows compatibility settings that will turn off the desktop scaling entirely for compatibility's sake. (Disable display scaling on high DPI settings). Some GOG games do this to maintain compatibility but the result is that the window is microscopic on a 4K display. You can right-click a program and check the compatibility settings on programs that are tiny like this.

Most modern programs (Steam, Origin, GOG Galaxy, etc.) should look and behave properly at high DPI.
 
How does HDR+ look like for regular HD tv shows?

I just tried it with an episode of Peaky Blinders and Dexter for a minute or two on the TV's built in Netflix app. Looked good, a bit smooth and really faux-4K, maybe some better color tones for a couple flashy looking things and for caucasian skin... but I doubt it would be good for everything.

Then I tried it on Trailer Park Boys which isn't HDR, but is 4K, and that didn't look right... brought out too much grain, like it was some old 35mm film on UHD (but it's not)... made it look less sharp and flatter color.

Tried it one more time with Iron Fist, which is 4K and HDR... just makes it look like SD with worse smoothing.

You might like it on one or two shows, but it will probably make more stuff look wrong than cool. If you're picky about film accuracy, I wouldn't recommend it. I don't think I'll bother with it for movies/TV.
 

Aske

Member
Update to this: more experimentation needed, but I think I'm observing that the TV has tied ad preferences to Samsung Account info rather than TV settings. I think the ad shows up when I turn the TV on, but disappears when it connects to the internet and signs into my Samsung Account. You know, the opposite of how it should be. I think the last ad must stay in the TV's cache rather than being refreshed every time you turn the TV on.

Wonder how much Samsung is charging Amazon for the privilege of force-feeding ads to people who paid thousands of dollars for their TVs.

Nope, I was wrong. Ads still pop up. It does seem like a glitch though; because to get rid of the ad, I have to open the Terms and Conditions, leave all boxes unchecked, and click OK. Even though I haven't changed anything. Like I have to remind then TV of the things I haven't agreed to every time.
 

Shai-Tan

Banned
How does HDR+ look like for regular HD tv shows?

I only like it with nature shows or other shows with a lot of outdoor scenes that have a "realistic" or documentary look. It looks terrible in others.

For games I liked it with Abzu and Grow Home but most everything else looks overexposed or has many artifacts, in addition to the huge input lag which is only suited to a limited set of games.
 

vpance

Member
Nope, I was wrong. Ads still pop up. It does seem like a glitch though; because to get rid of the ad, I have to open the Terms and Conditions, leave all boxes unchecked, and click OK. Even though I haven't changed anything. Like I have to remind then TV of the things I haven't agreed to every time.

Haven't seen ads in a week, so I think the firewall worked, just took some time for the cache to clear. Last one I saw was American Gods

I just tried it with an episode of Peaky Blinders and Dexter for a minute or two on the TV's built in Netflix app. Looked good, a bit smooth and really faux-4K, maybe some better color tones for a couple flashy looking things and for caucasian skin... but I doubt it would be good for everything.

Then I tried it on Trailer Park Boys which isn't HDR, but is 4K, and that didn't look right... brought out too much grain, like it was some old 35mm film on UHD (but it's not)... made it look less sharp and flatter color.

Tried it one more time with Iron Fist, which is 4K and HDR... just makes it look like SD with worse smoothing.

You might like it on one or two shows, but it will probably make more stuff look wrong than cool. If you're picky about film accuracy, I wouldn't recommend it. I don't think I'll bother with it for movies/TV.

Watching House of Cards now with it on and it's working amazingly well. Looks like legit HDR content 👍 I like to keep brightness at 45 and set DC to low or med. If you don't have sharpness at 0 already then you should turn it down cuz HDR+ adds sharpening on it own.
 

kakashi08

Member
So the HDMI that came with the PS4 PRO broke, IDK how but the behind the tv the front metal part was off. So need a new one.
How do I know which HDMI is that off amazon, I heard it was a diff hdmi than the regular because of 4k?
 
Watching House of Cards now with it on and it's working amazingly well. Looks like legit HDR content 👍 I like to keep brightness at 45 and set DC to low or med. If you don't have sharpness at 0 already then you should turn it down cuz HDR+ adds sharpening on it own.

I could see it working well with House of Cards in regular HD, since that's one of their higher quality originals (like Peaky Blinders looked pretty good too). I'd probably have to load up the Netflix app on the PS4 instead of the TV to get regular HD for a minute and see what it's like, because the TV app defaults to 4K UHD (+HDR if available) for applicable content, if you're on that plan.

Streaming HD shows in general could use a little boost... they rarely ever look as sharp, rich or smooth as even regular 1080p blurays do on here, so I guess HDR+ could be good for that. Come to think of it, I might have to try it on a regular DVD sometime... once in awhile that's the only option at redbox.

Thanks for the House of Cards reminder too... I think I'll wait til next week, since comcast sent me an email saying I was at 90% of my ~1000GB data cap from binging a bunch of 4K shows during my 30 day trial.
 

GReeeeN

Member
are there any ways to reduce Judder?. I seem to be getting near to 0 Judder when running internal Apps such as YT, Netflix, Plex, but when I play content through HDMI (PC and PS4), there is noticeable judder in panning scenes.

I have a very high quality HDMI cable (12 meters), so I'm assuming its not the cable. Has anyone mucked around with the settings in CRU on PC to fix this?. It's becoming very distracting with PC games on the TV, as every pan of the camera makes the surroundings Judder like crazy. Yes I tried both Game Mode and Normal Viewing mode.
 

Mindman

Member
are there any ways to reduce Judder?. I seem to be getting near to 0 Judder when running internal Apps such as YT, Netflix, Plex, but when I play content through HDMI (PC and PS4), there is noticeable judder in panning scenes.

I have a very high quality HDMI cable (12 meters), so I'm assuming its not the cable. Has anyone mucked around with the settings in CRU on PC to fix this?. It's becoming very distracting with PC games on the TV, as every pan of the camera makes the surroundings Judder like crazy. Yes I tried both Game Mode and Normal Viewing mode.

The only way would be to use dejudder features and raise your input lag or get a different TV without a flickering backlight.
 

GReeeeN

Member
The only way would be to use dejudder features and raise your input lag or get a different TV without a flickering backlight.

I have the Judder Reduction on 6 already for movies and its still present,and I really dont think buying a new TV is viable solution.
 
are there any ways to reduce Judder?. I seem to be getting near to 0 Judder when running internal Apps such as YT, Netflix, Plex, but when I play content through HDMI (PC and PS4), there is noticeable judder in panning scenes.

I have a very high quality HDMI cable (12 meters), so I'm assuming its not the cable. Has anyone mucked around with the settings in CRU on PC to fix this?

Auto Motion Plus is where is the judder reduction setting is. That should probably be OFF for movies, or Custom for games, with Blur Reduction at 10, Judder reduction at 0, and LED Clear Motion OFF. Anything higher than 0 on Judder Reduction causes soap opera effect and stop motion frames on everything except the most cleanly filmed stuff, with the steadiest frame rates and motion (ie: The Revenant on UHD).

Going higher on judder reduction can make a game or movie image look incredible, but it almost always causes the stop motion effect... ie: Bloodborne will look like it's some 8K game from the future, and the camera panning will look smooth, but then your rolling animation will look like a teleporting claymation, vaseline ghost.

Also, make sure you're settings are right for each signal. The internal TV media apps have their own settings profile when the streaming content starts playing. Then, each HDMI has their own settings profiles, and everything has a different settings profile for when HDR content is detected. So if you were watching something on Netflix and set judder reduction to 0, then exited netflix and turned on your PS4, you might not have it set to 0 there.

If that doesn't help, I dunno. From what I hear, long cables can make data transfer slower, but I don't know anything technical about that. I know sometimes when I'm deep in the zone scrutinizing my picture IQ and settings, I can get stuck on hyper sensitive to frames of motion and panning, and then have to force myself to relax and "unsee" it.
 

vpance

Member
I could see it working well with House of Cards in regular HD, since that's one of their higher quality originals (like Peaky Blinders looked pretty good too). I'd probably have to load up the Netflix app on the PS4 instead of the TV to get regular HD for a minute and see what it's like, because the TV app defaults to 4K UHD (+HDR if available) for applicable content, if you're on that plan.

Streaming HD shows in general could use a little boost... they rarely ever look as sharp, rich or smooth as even regular 1080p blurays do on here, so I guess HDR+ could be good for that. Come to think of it, I might have to try it on a regular DVD sometime... once in awhile that's the only option at redbox.

Thanks for the House of Cards reminder too... I think I'll wait til next week, since comcast sent me an email saying I was at 90% of my ~1000GB data cap from binging a bunch of 4K shows during my 30 day trial.

Yeah I only really like to use it with higher quality 4K videos. I don't think it's very suited for SD/HD stuff.

4K streaming plus data caps is not a good combo. I'm getting gigabit installed this week, can't wait.
 
Yeah I only really like to use it with higher quality 4K videos. I don't think it's very suited for SD/HD stuff.

4K streaming plus data caps is not a good combo. I'm getting gigabit installed this week, can't wait.

I just leave it on Movie mode for any kind of streaming and blurays... 4K, HDR or regular HD. I have some settings I really like for it. Probably getting off-topic, though.
 

GReeeeN

Member
Auto Motion Plus is where is the judder reduction setting is. That should probably be OFF for movies, or Custom for games, with Blur Reduction at 10, Judder reduction at 0, and LED Clear Motion OFF. Anything higher than 0 on Judder Reduction causes soap opera effect and stop motion frames on everything except the most cleanly filmed stuff, with the steadiest frame rates and motion (ie: The Revenant on UHD).

Going higher on judder reduction can make a game or movie image look incredible, but it almost always causes the stop motion effect... ie: Bloodborne will look like it's some 8K game from the future, and the camera panning will look smooth, but then your rolling animation will look like a teleporting claymation, vaseline ghost.

Also, make sure you're settings are right for each signal. The internal TV media apps have their own settings profile when the streaming content starts playing. Then, each HDMI has their own settings profiles, and everything has a different settings profile for when HDR content is detected. So if you were watching something on Netflix and set judder reduction to 0, then exited netflix and turned on your PS4, you might not have it set to 0 there.

If that doesn't help, I dunno. From what I hear, long cables can make data transfer slower, but I don't know anything technical about that. I know sometimes when I'm deep in the zone scrutinizing my picture IQ and settings, I can get stuck on hyper sensitive to frames of motion and panning, and then have to force myself to relax and "unsee" it.

Thanks for this post, I always prioritised Judder Reduction over Blur Reduction. Currently most my settings are judder: 6 motion: 4, and its that stop motion judder that's driving me insane.

Maybe I'll try Blur 10 and Judder 0 and see how that looks. I always thought the stop motion judder was tied to the judder reduction setting.
 

Yoday

Member
So the HDMI that came with the PS4 PRO broke, IDK how but the behind the tv the front metal part was off. So need a new one.
How do I know which HDMI is that off amazon, I heard it was a diff hdmi than the regular because of 4k?
The high speed Amazon Basics one is fine, just look for the one that says newest standard. If you want to be sure you're getting the best signal you can then get the Premium Certified one at Monoprice. They are only a couple of dollars depending on length.
 

Doombear

Member
Now the Netflix app is buggered and Now TV is broken too. Netflix just presents a black screen, Now TV has unresponsive jumbled menus, where trying to navigate left will take you right. Amazon Video is glitching and beeping over bluetooth audio and had a black screen for a moment.

This is the worst the apps have been.

Try resetting your SmartHub. Its in the TV menus somewhere. You'll have to sign into everything again but it might fix your issues.

Was getting the black screen issue myself after getting the update on my KS9000. I reset Smart Hub apps... now Netflix doesn't even open at all. Just nothing. Pressing 'enter' on the Netflix App just closes the Smart Hub menu.

Ugh.
 

Nick

Junior Member
I can't get my KS8000 to recognize my Denon AVR -S710W. They both support ARC, but when I plug my PS4 Pro into the OneConnect box, I get no sound. Anyone have any suggestions? If I plugged my Ps4 Pro into the Denon directly, I am able to get sound but not get the benefits of HDR, right?
 

philm87

Member
I can't get my KS8000 to recognize my Denon AVR -S710W. They both support ARC, but when I plug my PS4 Pro into the OneConnect box, I get no sound. Anyone have any suggestions? If I plugged my Ps4 Pro into the Denon directly, I am able to get sound but not get the benefits of HDR, right?

Is it set to go through the receiver in the sound options on the TV? Does the TV detect the receiver at all as a HDMI input at all? Definitely got the cable plugged into the right port on the receiver?

Some receivers can do video passthrough, not sure if this could effect the HDR or not as mine can't do this.

Make sure UHD colour is off on the HDMI port for the cable going back to the receiver. Long shot but this can have compatibility issues with some devices.
 

laxu

Member
If the receiver doesn't support HDR or other settings that your TV does, then you'll have no choice but to follow this advice and go straight to the TV and run ARC or optical back to the receiver (I prefer optical as ARC can be a pain).

However, strictly speaking about the potential for input lag, I disagree. Why cheat yourself out of enhanced audio quality if you don't have to. Just set your receiver to "passthrough" for video, turn off any on-screen overlays, and enable game mode if it has one. I have a recent Onkyo receiver and while I'm sure it cannot be totally lag-free it is imperceptible to me with the above settings and I'm fairly sensitive. Furthermore, I have experienced none of the black screens, lip-sync issues, problems setting intermediate resolutions or Nintendo Switch auto-input switching that others have reported going directly to their TV sets. In addition, I get 7.1 uncompressed audio, which is impossible using ARC or optical-out.

I'm just saying I would give it a shot running through the receiver. If you check the receiver's settings and you still run into lag or other problems, THEN you can sacrifice audio quality and go straight to the TV.

Depends on the receiver. I have a Denon AVR1610 that adds a ton of input lag no matter the setting. Since it doesn't support 4K anyway I just run an optical cable from the TV into it and connect everything to the TV. I don't think most people have speakers good enough for uncompressed vs compressed audio to matter much.
 

Ivory Samoan

Gold Member
If anyone else has been getting 'An HDR Video is Playing' all the time popping up, it's the new Windows 10 Creators update messing with you, if you are on YBR422/420 it will think your running a HDR signal for some reason and turn on in the display->advanced/HDR setting.

Hope they fix it, like to leave it on so it will automatically jump to HDR for ME:A and the like, then back to normal after without staying in HDR mode (so dim/washed out when not a HDR signal).
 

MazeHaze

Banned
If anyone else has been getting 'An HDR Video is Playing' all the time popping up, it's the new Windows 10 Creators update messing with you, if you are on YBR422/420 it will think your running a HDR signal for some reason and turn on in the display->advanced/HDR setting.

Hope they fix it, like to leave it on so it will automatically jump to HDR for ME:A and the like, then back to normal after without staying in HDR mode (so dim/washed out when not a HDR signal).
I actually had to roll back the update. Was watching giantbomb and it switched to HDR mode (which felt horrible with a ton of input lag even though I was in game mode, and of course washed out the screen.). I rebooted and my PC would just boot to a blank green screen after the windows logo. My PC was set on RGB.
 

Ivory Samoan

Gold Member
I actually had to roll back the update. Was watching giantbomb and it switched to HDR mode (which felt horrible with a ton of input lag even though I was in game mode, and of course washed out the screen.). I rebooted and my PC would just boot to a blank green screen after the windows logo. My PC was set on RGB.

They definitely bungled the Creators update - at least a lot of people are experiencing problems, so hopefully it should get fixed: where would be the best place to submit a report to MS in order to get things done you reckon?
 

MazeHaze

Banned
They definitely bungled the Creators update - at least a lot of people are experiencing problems, so hopefully it should get fixed: where would be the best place to submit a report to MS in order to get things done you reckon?
When I rolled back the update it gave me an option to submit a report.
 

mckmas8808

Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
The high speed Amazon Basics one is fine, just look for the one that says newest standard. If you want to be sure you're getting the best signal you can then get the Premium Certified one at Monoprice. They are only a couple of dollars depending on length.

Good tip on the Premium Certified cables.
 
Hey everyone, what looks better?

#1

ddgwsX.jpg

#2


?
 

Metalic Sand

who is Emo-Beas?
I can't get my KS8000 to recognize my Denon AVR -S710W. They both support ARC, but when I plug my PS4 Pro into the OneConnect box, I get no sound. Anyone have any suggestions? If I plugged my Ps4 Pro into the Denon directly, I am able to get sound but not get the benefits of HDR, right?

I'd make sure you have HDMI-CEC on in the TV options and HDR off for that port. I just ran into a problem with ARC yesterday though mine was a little different.
 

ss_lemonade

Member
I can't get my KS8000 to recognize my Denon AVR -S710W. They both support ARC, but when I plug my PS4 Pro into the OneConnect box, I get no sound. Anyone have any suggestions? If I plugged my Ps4 Pro into the Denon directly, I am able to get sound but not get the benefits of HDR, right?
AFAIK, the s710w should have HDR support
 
Has anyone had issues with audio not coming through sometimes when you first turn the tv on? I'll turn the tv on and find that my cable is muted. The tv still makes the sounds when I go through the menu, but no audio from my cable input. I have to switch to another hdmi input and then back to the cable input in order to get sound.
 
Hey everyone, what looks better?

#1

#2

Brightness is too low in the first pic (crushing blacks), and too high in the second (gray blacks). I'd try to split the difference.

EDIT-

I'm noticing some horizontal banding on my TV. Hadn't seen it before, wonder if its firmware related or me using a tissue to (gently) wipe the screen.

Banding is one of those terms that means a few different things in regards to TVs. When you say banding, are you referring to a slight variation in light output that stays in one physical location on the panel? If yes, then the panel either always had it and you are just now noticing (due to different settings, lighting, etc.), you caused it with your wiping, or it's a side-effect of age and the panel layers maybe reacting or separating (least likely). The firmware probably had nothing to do with it. Most (all?) 55" or higher LCD TVs come with slight panel uniformity issues out of the box, and physical contact with the screen can both exacerbate and assist with these. It's often suggested that users with banding, DSE, or light leakage gently "massage" the screen and sometimes this helps. In the same way, it can cause or reveal issues if pressure is applied as well. I only touch my screen if absolutely necessary and even then to only clean spots and not wipe the whole screen.
 

Belker

Member
I'm noticing some horizontal banding on my TV. Hadn't seen it before, wonder if its firmware related or me using a tissue to (gently) wipe the screen.
 
My blacks look crushed when I have 10 bit enabled on my Xbox. How should I compensate?

I used that LCD reference website with the black squares. And in 8 bit it looks fine. In 10 bit the first 14 or so aren't visible.
 
2nd image for sure, at least to me.

#2 you can see more detail. Like the crease in the middle of the school jacket

Brightness is too low in the first pic (crushing blacks), and too high in the second (gray blacks). I'd try to split the difference.

The settings are basically Rtings's other than warm 1 instead of 2. The only difference between pic 1 and 2 is the HDMI black level. The top picture got PS4 RGB on limited, and the TV HDMI level to low, the bottom one RGB limited, HDMI level normal/auto (same). GAF recommended the first setting to me but I'm not sure if the crushed blacks are something I can tolerate. The bottom picture looks really weak in comparison and doesn't pop at all, detail level is good though.

Maybe I'll try RGB auto and HDMI level auto.
 

Belker

Member
B

Banding is one of those terms that means a few different things in regards to TVs. When you say banding, are you referring to a slight variation in light output that stays in one physical location on the panel? If yes, then the panel either always had it and you are just now noticing (due to different settings, lighting, etc.), you caused it with your wiping, or it's a side-effect of age and the panel layers maybe reacting or separating (least likely). The firmware probably had nothing to do with it. Most (all?) 55" or higher LCD TVs come with slight panel uniformity issues out of the box, and physical contact with the screen can both exacerbate and assist with these. It's often suggested that users with banding, DSE, or light leakage gently "massage" the screen and sometimes this helps. In the same way, it can cause or reveal issues if pressure is applied as well. I only touch my screen if absolutely necessary and even then to only clean spots and not wipe the whole screen.

I'm aware of vertical banding, which I had on my old TV to a great extent, but not this sort of thing. Thin horizontal lines.

Bugger. Bugger.Bugger.Bugger.

My annoyance is in no way directed at you - your replies are always helpful - but how the heck are we supposed to clean or dust the TV, if touching it might cause issues?
 

kakashi08

Member
The high speed Amazon Basics one is fine, just look for the one that says newest standard. If you want to be sure you're getting the best signal you can then get the Premium Certified one at Monoprice. They are only a couple of dollars depending on length.
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8SSD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6AXmzb11VPE9G
Says "latest" standard. Dis gucci for PS4 pro?
 
Thin horizontal lines.

how the heck are we supposed to clean or dust the TV, if touching it might cause issues?

If the lines are thin, and really straight, i.e. they follow the pixel grid of the screen, then you may have a defective TV. Wiping wouldn't cause that, I don't think. The bands I was referring to would be vague and amorphous, like shadows so slight you only notice them on bright backgrounds, especially panning shots.

As for the screen, only clean it when you need to, and use a soft cloth and as little pressure as possible. If you're just trying to knock the dust off, a light swoosh with a clean swiffer duster would be fine.

The top picture got PS4 RGB on limited, and the TV HDMI level to low, the bottom one RGB limited, HDMI level normal/auto (same).

There are only two correct ways to set up black level with the PS4 and TV.

Limted/Low or Full/Normal

Auto attempts to figure out the correct setting on its own but in my experience the TV is not always perfect about doing this so I opt to set it myself.

Black Level here is referring to the RGB range. With an 8-bit (i.e. most non-HDR content) format, there are 256 possible values. On PC monitors, the FULL (Normal) range is used, which is 0-255. For ages, until only recently, with most TVs only 16-235 are used. This is the Limited (Low) range. But now, we have TVs that are essentially computer monitors and can support the full range, so this question comes up.

The goal is to make sure that the range your console is outputting is also the one your TV is interpreting and displaying. If they are mismatched, you will either have crushed blacks or gray blacks. If you have the format matching and you are still seeing crushed blacks or gray blacks, then you need to adjust the Brightness setting up or down until your blacks are dark, but with the minimum of lost detail. IMO it's better to loose a tiny amount of shadow detail in order to have nice blacks and good contrast.

EDIT - This article does a good job trying to explain this, I referred to it when writing my post. I wouldn't necessarily follow the advice on offer (always use limited/low with TVs) but the explanations are sound.
 

Belker

Member
If the lines are thin, and really straight, i.e. they follow the pixel grid of the screen, then you may have a defective TV. Wiping wouldn't cause that, I don't think. The bands I was referring to would be vague and amorphous, like shadows so slight you only notice them on bright backgrounds, especially panning shots.

As for the screen, only clean it when you need to, and use a soft cloth and as little pressure as possible. If you're just trying to knock the dust off, a light swoosh with a clean swiffer duster would be fine.

Thanks for the response. I'll look for a duster. The thing about lines is that they're a bit shadowy, like vertical banding, but much thinner a bit more defined. Not pixel lines as I've seen here.

Anyway, I can't do anything about them so I'll try not to look for them.

Weirdly they (and other issues) are more prominent in No Man's Sky in HDR.
 
Weirdly they (and other issues) are more prominent in No Man's Sky in HDR.

Sometimes such artifacts are just part of the game. Back when Halo 4 was new I was trying a new TV and thought that it was defective because anything that glowed blue/orange/whatever had these weird horizontal bands in it. Turns out that it looked that way on all TVs. I had blamed the set for the weird way the game rendered those glowing areas.
 

Jigolo

Member
The settings are basically Rtings's other than warm 1 instead of 2. The only difference between pic 1 and 2 is the HDMI black level. The top picture got PS4 RGB on limited, and the TV HDMI level to low, the bottom one RGB limited, HDMI level normal/auto (same). GAF recommended the first setting to me but I'm not sure if the crushed blacks are something I can tolerate. The bottom picture looks really weak in comparison and doesn't pop at all, detail level is good though.

Maybe I'll try RGB auto and HDMI level auto.

PS4s RGB auto is and will always be broken. Set to FULL on PS4 and Normal on the Samsung TV. Or limited on PS4 and low on Samsung TVs.

Okay:

PS4: RGB FULL, KS8000: Black Level: Normal
PS4: RGB Limited, KS8000: Black Level: Low


Not okay:
PS4: FULL, KS8000: Black Level: Low
PS4: Limited, KS8000: Normal


That being said, fuck Samsung's black level terminology
 
Top Bottom