Support NeoGAF

[WolfRathmA]

Dr. Zoidberg was right for the Xbox One X. When HDR signal is detected, One X switches to 4:2:0 30bits per pixel (10bit) when you Unselect the YCC 422 option from advanced settings. If you check the YCC 422 you are getting 4:2:2 24bits per pixel (8bit).

On PS4 Pro now, you don't have the option to do that, only if you go to video output settings and select the YUV420 in order to get 4:2:0 30bits per pixel (10bit). Otherwise (on automatic) you are getting 4:2:2 24bits per pixel (8bit). I've tested only on Gran Turismo Sport and Last of Us.

8bit gives 16.777.216 colors combinations
10bit gives 1.073.741.824 colors combinations

4:2:0 vs 4:2:2 you can't spot the differences with naked eye. Only if you are a colorist, photographer etc and you are using a 10bit monitor, then you need the max chroma sub-sampling.

The encoding for HDR is 4:2:0 for bluray movies as Dr. Zoidberg said. This is the same encoding also for videogames?

edit:
I read a comment on youtube HDTVtest channel. I quote it below. He's has a point for the PS4 Pro also.

I'd recommed against YUC422 unless your tv or projector doesn't support a 10 bit YCbCr 4:2:0 signal. Why? Vincent explains it himself: HDR games and movies render at 10 bit 4:2:0 which again needs to be decoded to a 10 bit RGB signal by the display device before being shown on screen. In other words, the upconversion to 12 bit 4:2:2 is an unnecessary extra step which might introduce all kinds of unwanted side effects depending on how good the Xbox upconversion algorithm is and how well the display device handles the incoming 12 bit 4:2:2 signal. One important thing to consider is that there are no native 12 bit panels yet. All current tv's are either 8 bit or 10 bit and not all handle incoming 12 bit signals well resulting in visible banding, washed out colors and other unwanted side effects.

Other than that I agree with Vincent's other points.

Bottom line:
For Xbox One, unselect YUC422 and select 8-bit color depth for the best possible IQ in HDR and SDR games.

Off topic:
The settings for PS4 Pro are more complicated. For SDR games make sure to select AUTO (or RGB). For HDR games you need to manually select "YUV420" instead of RGB (Auto). Otherwise the console will send a 12 bit 4:2:2 signal. Also be aware that the PS4 Pro unfortunately doesn't support a native 10 bit HDR signal on all HDR capable tv's. For instance it sends a 12 bit 4:2:0 to my LG B7 OLED tv even when I manually select "YUV420" in the settings menu. Still I recommend the YUV420 setting over RGB (Auto) for HDR games since it doesn't alter chroma subsampling.

 

[WolfRathmA]

I’ve test the PS4 Pro with manual setting for HDR to YUV420 and it gives 4:2:0 12bit and the result is great! On automatic setting it only gives you 4:2:2 8bit and is completely wrong.

 

[Boss Man]

I bet that's the reason why using RGB (Auto) on PS4 Pro was causing my screen to cut out randomly.

 

[WolfRathmA]

I bet that's the reason why using RGB (Auto) on PS4 Pro was causing my screen to cut out randomly.

I didn’t have that kind of problem but I had to much banding on the picture. Now I see that is less and not very noticeable at all.

I had picture drops with other HDMI cables. So I prefer to check another HDMI cable for that.

 

[Paulxo87]

What do you guys do about the HDMI black level. I know "normal" is correct however it just looks so much better on auto or low(same thing it seems) And I just keep the brightness at 40 to compensate so the blacks are not completely crushed

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

I’ve test the PS4 Pro with manual setting for HDR to YUV420 and it gives 4:2:0 12bit and the result is great! On automatic setting it only gives you 4:2:2 8bit and is completely wrong.

What device are you using to get your readings? Specific brand, etc?

What do you guys do about the HDMI black level. I know "normal" is correct however it just looks so much better on auto or low(same thing it seems)

Your TV and game system need to agree on the black level setting.

TV: Low -> Game System: Limited/Standard/ Low/TV
TV: Normal -> Game System: Full/PC

If the settings on both ends agree, the results should appear pretty much the same regardless of which you use. Auto is a crapshoot, so I avoid it. It will usually pick Standard/Low, since this is the default.

The Xbox One has or used to have a bug in full mode where it crushes blacks so the Standard/Low combo is recommended . Using full range RGB doesn’t really gain you any noticeable improvement anyway, it’s all academic. The games are made with limited range in mind.

 

[kaydigi]

How do you delete and reinstall the Netflix app? My 65in ks8000has a black screen flicker when trying to use the app.

 

[OrionFalls]

How do you delete and reinstall the Netflix app? My 65in ks8000has a black screen flicker when trying to use the app.

Netflix can’t be uninstalled.

 

[philm87]

How do you delete and reinstall the Netflix app? My 65in ks8000has a black screen flicker when trying to use the app.

You can reset the whole smart hub in the support>self diagnosis section of the settings.

If you haven't tried it, try holding the back button down on the smart control with the app open to shut it down properly, then reopen it.

 

[mario_O]

How do you delete and reinstall the Netflix app? My 65in ks8000has a black screen flicker when trying to use the app.

go to my apps, search for the netflix icon, and hold the center button on it for a few seconds -an option to reinstall the app will pop from a dropdown menu.

 

[Paulxo87]

What device are you using to get your readings? Specific brand, etc?



Your TV and game system need to agree on the black level setting.

TV: Low -> Game System: Limited/Standard/ Low/TV
TV: Normal -> Game System: Full/PC

If the settings on both ends agree, the results should appear pretty much the same regardless of which you use. Auto is a crapshoot, so I avoid it. It will usually pick Standard/Low, since this is the default.

The Xbox One has or used to have a bug in full mode where it crushes blacks so the Standard/Low combo is recommended . Using full range RGB doesn’t really gain you any noticeable improvement anyway, it’s all academic. The games are made with limited range in mind.

I fully understand the need for the handshake between the PS4 RGB settings and the TV Dr. Zoidberg. However, even with that considered the limited range still provides the better quality image. Full range lightens up the image with a grey filter.

 

[kaydigi]

go to my apps, search for the netflix icon, and hold the center button on it for a few seconds -an option to reinstall the app will pop from a dropdown menu.

You can reset the whole smart hub in the support>self diagnosis section of the settings.

If you haven't tried it, try holding the back button down on the smart control with the app open to shut it down properly, then reopen it.

Netflix can’t be uninstalled.

Thanks the reinstall stopped the flickering.

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

I fully understand the need for the handshake between the PS4 RGB settings and the TV Dr. Zoidberg. However, even with that considered the limited range still provides the better quality image. Full range lightens up the image with a grey filter.

So limited/Low is the way to go. That’s what I use too. I guess I’m not sure what you were asking. You also said that “Normal” was “correct” but in theory neither option is truly “correct”.

 

[Paulxo87]

So limited/Low is the way to go. That’s what I use too. I guess I’m not sure what you were asking. You also said that “Normal” was “correct” but in theory neither option is truly “correct”.

There is somewhat more detail in the blacks with normal on is why i'm saying it's more correct of an image but the gray filter thrown over the image isn't worth it to me it would seem. I can get "enough" detail just by having the backlight high and brightness at 40

 

[LastNac]

Whats better for black level? Low, normal, auto?

 

[ss_lemonade]

I fully understand the need for the handshake between the PS4 RGB settings and the TV Dr. Zoidberg. However, even with that considered the limited range still provides the better quality image. Full range lightens up the image with a grey filter.

That's interesting because what you are describing is what one would normally get if there was a mismatch with settings, specifically if source was set to Limited and your TV was set to Full (the other way around would give you crushed blacks). I just tested it now with my PC while in RGB, since YCbCr will not allow you to change this setting.

I never noticed any difference between Full-Full and Limited-Limited by the way. They both show the same, correct picture unless dealing with certain edge cases.

 

[Belker]

After a long time not seeing anything, I had two instances of the blue/red separation in Wildlands yesterday. Very odd. No idea what triggers it.

 

[Genei_Jin]

Whats better for black level? Low, normal, auto?

Here's what works with my PS4 Pro and PSVR set up. It's the only way things work properly for me.

HDMI Black Level on KS8000 - Normal

PS4 / PS4 Pro

Resolution- 2160p - RGB

RGB Range - Full

HDR - Automatic

Deep Color Output - Automatic

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's my set up for the XBOX One X. If I change any of these settings I get random black screens handshaking issues where I have to reboot the KS8000 and/or XBOX One X. With these settings, I don't have any problems.

HDMI Black Level on KS8000 - Low (Grayed out anyway)

XBOX One / XBOX One X

TV resolution - 4K UHD

Color depth - 30 bits per pixel (10-bit)

Color space - Standard (Recommended)

I hope this helps some people out

 

[LastNac]

Here's what works with my PS4 Pro and PSVR set up. It's the only way things work properly for me.

HDMI Black Level on KS8000 - Normal

PS4 / PS4 Pro

Resolution- 2160p - RGB

RGB Range - Full

HDR - Automatic

Deep Color Output - Automatic

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's my set up for the XBOX One X. If I change any of these settings I get random black screens handshaking issues where I have to reboot the KS8000 and/or XBOX One X. With these settings, I don't have any problems.

HDMI Black Level on KS8000 - Low (Grayed out anyway)

XBOX One / XBOX One X

TV resolution - 4K UHD

Color depth - 30 bits per pixel (10-bit)

Color space - Standard (Recommended)

I hope this helps some people out

I read 8 bit was better for HDR with 4:2:2, is that true?

 

[breakfuss]

Can we get updated video settings suggestions? Something a lot of people like? Please y’all. This stuff is so overwhelming to me. Thank you.

And thank you Genei_Jin for those settings above.

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

I read 8 bit was better for HDR with 4:2:2, is that true?

If you set color depth to 8-bit 4:4:4 (RGB), HDR content will automatically switch to 10-bit 4:2:0 anyway. He’s just forcing 10-bit 4:2:0 across the board for everything, including non-hdr content which is natively 8-bit RGB, because 4:2:0 pushes less data across and doesn’t cause black screens for him.

 

[ss_lemonade]

If you set color depth to 8-bit 4:4:4 (RGB), HDR content will automatically switch to 10-bit 4:2:0 anyway. He’s just forcing 10-bit 4:2:0 across the board for everything, including non-hdr content which is natively 8-bit RGB, because 4:2:0 pushes less data across and doesn’t cause black screens for him.

I don’t have a PS4 Pro but are you saying that RGB 8bit would sometimes cause black screens? Shouldn’t that not be the case since bandwidth should be a non-issue in that scenario with SDR? I don’t think I’ve ever had black screen flickering issues with my PC running 4k 8-bit RGB

 

[wowzors]

Dr. Zoidberg was right for the Xbox One X. When HDR signal is detected, One X switches to 4:2:0 30bits per pixel (10bit) when you Unselect the YCC 422 option from advanced settings. If you check the YCC 422 you are getting 4:2:2 24bits per pixel (8bit).

On PS4 Pro now, you don't have the option to do that, only if you go to video output settings and select the YUV420 in order to get 4:2:0 30bits per pixel (10bit). Otherwise (on automatic) you are getting 4:2:2 24bits per pixel (8bit). I've tested only on Gran Turismo Sport and Last of Us.

8bit gives 16.777.216 colors combinations
10bit gives 1.073.741.824 colors combinations

4:2:0 vs 4:2:2 you can't spot the differences with naked eye. Only if you are a colorist, photographer etc and you are using a 10bit monitor, then you need the max chroma sub-sampling.

The encoding for HDR is 4:2:0 for bluray movies as Dr. Zoidberg said. This is the same encoding also for videogames?

edit:
I read a comment on youtube HDTVtest channel. I quote it below. He's has a point for the PS4 Pro also.

What are you talking about? On Auto if you go to settings while in an HDR Game or Netflix you will see that it switch itself to YUV422.

This is on a LG B7A

The PS4 on Auto will output in RGB when not in HDR and YUV422 HDR on games like horizon or HDR on Netflix like Stranger Things 2.

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

I don't have a PS4 Pro but are you saying that RGB 8bit would sometimes cause black screens? Shouldn't that not be the case since bandwidth should be a non-issue in that scenario with SDR? I don't think I've ever had black screen flickering issues with my PC running 4k 8-bit RGB

Assuming that the black screens are caused by a cable or other component that is not quite capable of the peak bandwidth required, then yes.

4K 8-bit 4:4:4 60 fps (SDR) requires 17.82 Gbps
4K 10-bit 4:2:0 60 fps (Standard HDR) only requires 11.14 Gbps

In this scenario, HDR is actually less data because of the drop from 4:4:4 to 4:2:0. I used the data rate calculator HERE for these numbers.

 

[stargateheaven]

What device are you using to get your readings? Specific brand, etc?



Your TV and game system need to agree on the black level setting.

TV: Low -> Game System: Limited/Standard/ Low/TV
TV: Normal -> Game System: Full/PC

If the settings on both ends agree, the results should appear pretty much the same regardless of which you use. Auto is a crapshoot, so I avoid it. It will usually pick Standard/Low, since this is the default.

The Xbox One has or used to have a bug in full mode where it crushes blacks so the Standard/Low combo is recommended . Using full range RGB doesn’t really gain you any noticeable improvement anyway, it’s all academic. The games are made with limited range in mind.

i cant even change my hdmi black level. its on auto and the tv says this function is unavailable

 

[ss_lemonade]

i cant even change my hdmi black level. its on auto and the tv says this function is unavailable

I don’t think you can change black level if the source (xbox, ps4, etc) is outputting YCbCr since YCbCr output is/will always be limited AFAIK

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

I don’t think you can change black level if the source (xbox, ps4, etc) is outputting YCbCr

Correct. Black level only affects 8-bit RGB so if your source isn't outputting in that format, the feature is grayed out.

 

[Genei_Jin]

Assuming that the black screens are caused by a cable or other component that is not quite capable of the peak bandwidth required, then yes.

4K 8-bit 4:4:4 60 fps (SDR) requires 17.82 Gbps
4K 10-bit 4:2:0 60 fps (Standard HDR) only requires 11.14 Gbps

In this scenario, HDR is actually less data because of the drop from 4:4:4 to 4:2:0. I used the data rate calculator HERE for these numbers.

Thanks for that link Dr. Zoidberg. That's pretty handy.

Maybe the problem is the HDMI cable when I output 4K 8-bit 4:4:4 from the XBOX ONE X? I'm using the HDMI cable that came with the XBOX ONE X. BTW, I'm not having this problem with the PS4 Pro outputting 4K 8-bit 4:4:4 60 fps using an amazon HDMI 2.0 cable.
I'll try one of the amazon HDMI 2.0 cables with the XBOX ONE X and see if that makes a difference. I can honestly say I can't tell a difference between when the XBOX outputs

4K 8-bit 4:4:4 60 fps
or
4K 10-bit 4:2:0 60 fps

in terms of colors or performance, then again I haven't looked for banding in a sky shot or something. I'm off today, I'll test around and I'll report my results later.

Edit: So it turns out the HDMI cable that came with the XBOX ONE X was causing the frequent black screen issue. Maybe it couldn't handle the bandwidth or I got a faulty one (I'm not sure). I switched the HDMI 2.0 cable, and haven't had any issues since.

Make sure HDMI UHD Color is turned on your HDMI ports on your KS8000

HDMI 1 - On

HDMI 2 - On

HDMI 3 - On

HDMI 4 - On

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here are my updated XBOX ONE X settings

HDMI Black Level on KS8000 - Normal

XBOX One / XBOX One X Display & sound - Video output

TV resolution - 4K UHD

Color depth - 24 bits per pixel (8-bit)

Color space - PC RGB

XBOX One / XBOX One X Display & sound - Advanced video settings

TV connection - Auto-detect (Recommended)

Allow 50Hz - Check

Allow 24Hz - Check

Allow HDR - Check

Allow 4K - Check

Allow YCC 4:2:2 - Check

Allow 3D - (grayed out and unchecked)

 

[miami]

So other than the guy you guys mentioned that seemed to be full of shit. Is there any hint whatsoever that Samsung will ever fix the game mode HDR thing?

 

[Blizzje]

So other than the guy you guys mentioned that seemed to be full of shit. Is there any hint whatsoever that Samsung will ever fix the game mode HDR thing?

None. It's getting beyond ridiculous. Bought this TV november 2016 expecting this issue to be fixed within one firmware update. How difficult is it to instruct a TV to change from setting 1 tot setting 2 when a HDR signal is detected?

Apparently the game mode counts as a separate setting, which makes it impossible to update the TV and adjust the menu. Yes, I've gotten used to changing from backlight 12 to 20 when I play HDR games on the Pro and X, but the wait for this simple update is simply ridiculous. It reminds me of the idiocy in the dreamcast / ps2 era with the 50 /60 hz modes that some developers simply neglected to put in their games, while pirates added this feature within one hour.

This HDR backlight switching issue and the color seperation bug that still rarely occurs made sure that I will never buy a samsung tv again and stick with sony.

 

[laxu]

None. It's getting beyond ridiculous. Bought this TV november 2016 expecting this issue to be fixed within one firmware update. How difficult is it to instruct a TV to change from setting 1 tot setting 2 when a HDR signal is detected?

Apparently the game mode counts as a separate setting, which makes it impossible to update the TV and adjust the menu. Yes, I've gotten used to changing from backlight 12 to 20 when I play HDR games on the Pro and X, but the wait for this simple update is simply ridiculous. It reminds me of the idiocy in the dreamcast / ps2 era with the 50 /60 hz modes that some developers simply neglected to put in their games, while pirates added this feature within one hour.

This HDR backlight switching issue and the color seperation bug that still rarely occurs made sure that I will never buy a samsung tv again and stick with sony.

As has been explained previously, fixing the Game mode HDR separate setting is not a non-trivial matter. As the functionality has been designed in a stupid way, game mode is just one setting instead of a preset. So to fix this for HDR, game mode would have to act as a preset instead of a setting.

It is not surprising at all that Samsung would focus its work on 2018 models as that is what brings in the money. As most of the code is shared this will hopefully trickle down to older models but that remains to be seen.

For me the reason to buy something other than Samsung for my next TV is the absolute rubbish quality of the smart TV functionality. I have had to reset the Smart Hub several times due to apps refusing to start or getting stuck in states where they can't recover even with force quit. The hardware is also obviously underpowered as the whole UI becomes sluggish the moment you have more than one app running. It doesn't seem to handle freezing the apps in a sensible way as most of them crash when you return to them or just reload from scratch.

We could really use a TV with open source firmware as then at least someone could fix UI bugs or actually develop a UI that isn't a bag of shit to use.

 

[ss_lemonade]

Have they even addressed HDR-specific game mode with their 2017 models? I believe the same issue exists there

 

[AmericanPixel]

Have they even addressed HDR-specific game mode with their 2017 models? I believe the same issue exists there

This Rudy1 person from Florida had posted that an update for both the 2017 and 2016 models were supposed to release last year in October and November respectively. That has not come to pass (and I doubt it will, because I believe this Rudy1 loser to be a phony)

Moreover, he also posted that he owns a Q9F and that he indeed had the update for his particular set but couldn't try if the update actually worked or not because he doesn't own a console.

Rudy1 is so full of shit.

 

[base]

This Rudy1 person from Florida had posted that an update for both the 2017 and 2016 models were supposed to release last year in October and November respectively. That has not come to pass (and I doubt it will, because I believe this Rudy1 loser to be a phony)

Moreover, he also posted that he owns a Q9F and that he indeed had the update for his particular set but couldn't try if the update actually worked or not because he doesn't own a console.

Rudy1 is so full of shit.

AFAIK even without the console you can check the HDR settings. That guy is just making fun of people.

 

[mckmas8808]

I bet that's the reason why using RGB (Auto) on PS4 Pro was causing my screen to cut out randomly.

I LITERALLY had this same problem for months, until someone here just told me to manually set it off of AUTO and to YUV instead. No cuts outs sinc.e

 

[thegreatwb]

This Rudy1 person from Florida had posted that an update for both the 2017 and 2016 models were supposed to release last year in October and November respectively. That has not come to pass (and I doubt it will, because I believe this Rudy1 loser to be a phony)

Moreover, he also posted that he owns a Q9F and that he indeed had the update for his particular set but couldn't try if the update actually worked or not because he doesn't own a console.

Rudy1 is so full of shit.

This reminds me of the chat rooms back in the day when the girls had computers but claimed they didn't have a camera to send a pic. Good times lol.

 

[saltyramen]

I LITERALLY had this same problem for months, until someone here just told me to manually set it off of AUTO and to YUV instead. No cuts outs sinc.e

ugh so now we have to change resolution to YUV?? does this change anythjng graphically or

 

[philm87]

ugh so now we have to change resolution to YUV?? does this change anythjng graphically or

Slightly compresses the colour, but not to a noticeable level.

 

[deranged_666]

Just noticed my first issue with the KS8500/Xbox One X combo...

I cannot seem to not crush my blacks when Color space is set to RGB (as it should be, since this TV is fully capable of it) with 8-bit Color depth (RGB). I do not have this problem on my PS4 Pro (My PS4 is set to Auto, so SDR games are in 8-bit RGB, and HDR games auto run in YCC422..no black-crush involved).

If I set the One X Color space to PC RGB, and Color depth to 8-bit, and go into the calibration tool, absolutely nothing I do on the TV side of the settings will show the closed, black eye on the first page (where you set brightness). Absolutely nothing, from cranking/lowering brightness, contrast, or even changing the Black Level (Normal, Low, Auto). It's just a black or grey box with no closed eye inside.

If I set the One X to 10-bit Color depth (meaning, forcing 8-bit RGB to down-convert to 10-bit YCC420), I no longer have the option to adjust Black Level on the TV (as you would expect). If I set Color space to RGB, I can see the black eye and run through the calibration tool. Same idea if I set Color space to Standard, and change the Black Level on the TV.

But I cannot use 8-bit Color depth and RGB Color space together, because the blacks are crushed no matter what.

Can anyone else confirm? Is the One X crushing blacks when it shouldn't? Or am I dumb and have the wrong settings?

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

I cannot seem to not crush my blacks when Color space is set to RGB (as it should be, since this TV is fully capable of it) with 8-bit Color depth (RGB). I do not have this problem on my PS4 Pro (My PS4 is set to Auto, so SDR games are in 8-bit RGB, and HDR games auto run in YCC422..no black-crush involved).

There is a long-standing bug/hardware issue with the Xbox One where it crushes blacks if you use RGB Full/PC color space. You should choose RGB Limited/Standard/TV on the Xbox and "Low" black level on the KS8000 to avoid it. It's not a huge loss as the games are created with limited in mind since that's what most TVs use by default.

 

[fabrizio5680]

I'm using a Yamaha receiver for passthrough (4k/HDR) with one output, PS4 and Nvidia Shield are in the HDMI inputs of receiver, does this TV have the ability to switch mode (movie/game) on a single HDMI input based on the content? I know Sonys do, but just double checking in even though I'm not very hopeful.

 

[A.Romero]

Not automatically.

I think it only switches automatically to PC mode.

 

[ss_lemonade]

Can anyone else confirm? Is the One X crushing blacks when it shouldn't? Or am I dumb and have the wrong settings?

PC RGB works fine for me, but I only have a standard, non slim Xbox One.

Is it just me or do these 4k consoles (One X and PS4 Pro) seem to cause more headaches when it comes to figuring out the right settings?

 

[LenHendricks]

It's not the consoles it's the tech itself. User friendly this generation isn't.

 

[Noboru Wataya]

It's not the consoles it's the tech itself. User friendly this generation isn't.

I disagree, the best hdr games are the ones that have brightness and contrast sliders. It’s down to the devs to allow for different hdr settings on different TVs

 

[Genei_Jin]

Just noticed my first issue with the KS8500/Xbox One X combo...

I cannot seem to not crush my blacks when Color space is set to RGB (as it should be, since this TV is fully capable of it) with 8-bit Color depth (RGB). I do not have this problem on my PS4 Pro (My PS4 is set to Auto, so SDR games are in 8-bit RGB, and HDR games auto run in YCC422..no black-crush involved).

If I set the One X Color space to PC RGB, and Color depth to 8-bit, and go into the calibration tool, absolutely nothing I do on the TV side of the settings will show the closed, black eye on the first page (where you set brightness). Absolutely nothing, from cranking/lowering brightness, contrast, or even changing the Black Level (Normal, Low, Auto). It's just a black or grey box with no closed eye inside.

If I set the One X to 10-bit Color depth (meaning, forcing 8-bit RGB to down-convert to 10-bit YCC420), I no longer have the option to adjust Black Level on the TV (as you would expect). If I set Color space to RGB, I can see the black eye and run through the calibration tool. Same idea if I set Color space to Standard, and change the Black Level on the TV.

But I cannot use 8-bit Color depth and RGB Color space together, because the blacks are crushed no matter what.

Can anyone else confirm? Is the One X crushing blacks when it shouldn't? Or am I dumb and have the wrong settings?

Honestly I think something is wrong with XBOX One X. The colors are correct and I don't have black crush, but the random black screens issue is back for me when I set the XBOX to 8 bit-Color depth and PC RGB. I don't have this issue with my PS4 Pro. I just set it to 10-bit and standard (recommended) on the XBOX and forget about it.

Setting the XBOX to 8-bit standard (recommended) and the KS8000 to LOW should give you the correct colors.

 

[kikonawa]

Does the qled models have the same issiue with not activating the hdr profile automaticly?

 

[A.Romero]

Does the qled models have the same issiue with not activating the hdr profile automaticly?

There is no hdr profile for game mode.

Every time you use game mode on a hdr signal you must modify your settings.

 

[Insane Metal]

There is no hdr profile for game mode.

Every time you use game mode on a hdr signal you must modify your settings.

How is this even a thing yet. WTF Samsung.

MicroLED, QLED, bla bla bla... but this silly thing still remains.

 

[CreateNowSleepLater]

Honestly I think something is wrong with XBOX One X. The colors are correct and I don't have black crush, but the random black screens issue is back for me when I set the XBOX to 8 bit-Color depth and PC RGB. I don't have this issue with my PS4 Pro. I just set it to 10-bit and standard (recommended) on the XBOX and forget about it.

Setting the XBOX to 8-bit standard (recommended) and the KS8000 to LOW should give you the correct colors.

Can you describe the black screen cut out issue? I keep having it but treat it like a crash. I already sent my unit to MS. Sometimes the unit is still on, I have to hard cycle it then wait. Doesn't an HDR game for 10-bit anyway? Are you guys using game mode? Whick One X, Scorpio or standard. My Scorpio gets so hot I'm surprised it run honestly.