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Steam In-Home Streaming and Steam Link thread

888

Member
I'm hearing from a friend who has the xbox one wireless receiver that it's not recognized by the link. Really hoping Valve gets that added before the official November 10th launch.

Yeah it may take a bit. I am glad the PS4 controller works over Bluetooth.

I also would like to use my G930s with it also.
 

Gumbie

Member
Yeah it may take a bit. I am glad the PS4 controller works over Bluetooth.

I also would like to use my G930s with it also.

I had forgotten about ps4 bluetooth. Does the link have a built in xinput wrapper that maps the ps4 controller buttons to xbox ones in game?
 
Does the Steam Link have any work arounds to stream other non steam platform games (i.e. Origin, Uplay, etc.)? And how well does it work if it possible?
 

888

Member
Does the Steam Link have any work arounds to stream other non steam platform games (i.e. Origin, Uplay, etc.)? And how well does it work if it possible?


I will test a origin game later. I have only worked with Steam games with the link. I have done origin before using my Surface tho and it worked. Need to verify on the link.
 
If anyone is interested in selling me their controller let me know.

Also what router/modem combo would you recommend for the link to work well?
 

888

Member
Steam Link Tests

Before the wall of text. I moved my link upstairs right next to the router. The link is showing a 866mbps link to the router up here. Wired tests are going right to the router

I am going to run some tests with other devices later but wanted to focus on the link. Some of the numbers aren't that far off between Wired vs Wireless. It seems there may be some software caps pertaining to bandwidth over wireless even for a 802.11 ac setup which is backwards to me.

The hardware encoding trick works right from the dashboard before you launch a game, just go to settings, in home streaming, advanced host settings, uncheck the box and check it again. Launch the game after.

I have yet to see the link, wired or wireless, hit 30000k bit rates where as my surface over 802.11n can hit over 30000k.


Rocket League Wired Before Hardware Encoding Trick

"GameNameID" "Rocket League"
"TimeSubmitted" "1445540588"
"ResolutionX" "1920"
"ResolutionY" "1080"
"CaptureDescriptionID" "Desktop NVFBC H264"
"DecoderDescriptionID" "Marvell hardware decoding"
"BandwidthLimit" "15000"
"FramerateLimit" "0"
"SlowGamePercent" "0"
"SlowCapturePercent" "0"
"SlowConvertPercent" "0"
"SlowEncodePercent" "0"
"SlowNetworkPercent" "0"
"SlowDecodePercent" "0"
"SlowDisplayPercent" "0"
"AvgClientBitrate" "94.480903625488281"
"StdDevClientBitrate" "48.761817932128906"
"AvgServerBitrate" "11079.53125"
"StdDevServerBitrate" "0"
"AvgLinkBandwidth" "30000.001953125"
"AvgPingMS" "0.70430219173431396"
"StdDevPingMS" "0.16084806621074677"
"AvgCaptureMS" "2.1796877384185791"
"StdDevCaptureMS" "0.93283939361572266"
"AvgConvertMS" "0"
"StdDevConvertMS" "0"
"AvgEncodeMS" "2.1796624660491943"
"StdDevEncodeMS" "0.93284982442855835"
"AvgNetworkMS" "3.6828813552856445"
"StdDevNetworkMS" "2.1096413135528564"
"AvgDecodeMS" "2.046539306640625"
"StdDevDecodeMS" "1.0363637208938599"
"AvgDisplayMS" "0.1149384006857872"
"StdDevDisplayMS" "0.34261718392372131"
"AvgFrameMS" "17.210601806640625"
"StdDevFrameMS" "3.3281245231628418"
"AvgFPS" "61.871959686279297"
"StdDevFPS" "12.53884220123291"
"BigPicture" "1"
"KeyboardMouseInput" "0"
"GameControllerInput" "1"
"SteamControllerInput" "0"


Steam Link Rocket League Hardwired Tests: After Hardware Encoding Trick

"GameNameID" "Rocket League"
"TimeSubmitted" "1445540791"
"ResolutionX" "1920"
"ResolutionY" "1080"
"CaptureDescriptionID" "Desktop NVFBC H264"
"DecoderDescriptionID" "Marvell hardware decoding"
"BandwidthLimit" "25000"
"FramerateLimit" "0"
"SlowGamePercent" "0"
"SlowCapturePercent" "0"
"SlowConvertPercent" "0"
"SlowEncodePercent" "0"
"SlowNetworkPercent" "0"
"SlowDecodePercent" "0"
"SlowDisplayPercent" "0"
"AvgClientBitrate" "137.94338989257812"
"StdDevClientBitrate" "39.983806610107422"
"AvgServerBitrate" "18850.6484375"
"StdDevServerBitrate" "0"
"AvgLinkBandwidth" "114673.109375"
"AvgPingMS" "0.79144924879074097"
"StdDevPingMS" "0.12251058220863342"
"AvgCaptureMS" "2.1527588367462158"
"StdDevCaptureMS" "0.73882216215133667"
"AvgConvertMS" "0"
"StdDevConvertMS" "0"
"AvgEncodeMS" "2.1528604030609131"
"StdDevEncodeMS" "0.73885095119476318"
"AvgNetworkMS" "4.0294837951660156"
"StdDevNetworkMS" "2.0638837814331055"
"AvgDecodeMS" "2.0782670974731445"
"StdDevDecodeMS" "1.1871688365936279"
"AvgDisplayMS" "0.17930246889591217"
"StdDevDisplayMS" "0.73606586456298828"
"AvgFrameMS" "18.663850784301758"
"StdDevFrameMS" "4.0537056922912598"
"AvgFPS" "63.414779663085937"
"StdDevFPS" "19.365911483764648"
"BigPicture" "1"
"KeyboardMouseInput" "0"
"GameControllerInput" "1"
"SteamControllerInput" "0"


Steam Link Rocket League Wireless 802.11ac Before Hardware encoding trick


"GameNameID" "Rocket League"
"TimeSubmitted" "1445541043"
"ResolutionX" "1920"
"ResolutionY" "1080"
"CaptureDescriptionID" "Desktop NVFBC H264"
"DecoderDescriptionID" "Marvell hardware decoding"
"BandwidthLimit" "15000"
"FramerateLimit" "0"
"SlowGamePercent" "0"
"SlowCapturePercent" "0"
"SlowConvertPercent" "0"
"SlowEncodePercent" "0"
"SlowNetworkPercent" "0"
"SlowDecodePercent" "0"
"SlowDisplayPercent" "0"
"AvgClientBitrate" "155.82192993164062"
"StdDevClientBitrate" "91.19061279296875"
"AvgServerBitrate" "11959.0302734375"
"StdDevServerBitrate" "0"
"AvgLinkBandwidth" "30000.001953125"
"AvgPingMS" "4.8092122077941895"
"StdDevPingMS" "1.116747260093689"
"AvgCaptureMS" "2.1267085075378418"
"StdDevCaptureMS" "0.74702996015548706"
"AvgConvertMS" "0"
"StdDevConvertMS" "0"
"AvgEncodeMS" "2.1271266937255859"
"StdDevEncodeMS" "0.74693232774734497"
"AvgNetworkMS" "8.2732391357421875"
"StdDevNetworkMS" "2.9168057441711426"
"AvgDecodeMS" "3.3888654708862305"
"StdDevDecodeMS" "3.8270223140716553"
"AvgDisplayMS" "0.094070382416248322"
"StdDevDisplayMS" "0.22766286134719849"
"AvgFrameMS" "21.573310852050781"
"StdDevFrameMS" "5.0037899017333984"
"AvgFPS" "61.459449768066406"
"StdDevFPS" "15.624433517456055"
"BigPicture" "1"
"KeyboardMouseInput" "0"
"GameControllerInput" "1"
"SteamControllerInput" "0"
}


Steam Link Rocket League Wireless 802.11ac After Hardware Encoding Trick

"GameNameID" "Rocket League"
"TimeSubmitted" "1445541299"
"ResolutionX" "1920"
"ResolutionY" "1080"
"CaptureDescriptionID" "Desktop NVFBC H264"
"DecoderDescriptionID" "Marvell hardware decoding"
"BandwidthLimit" "15000"
"FramerateLimit" "0"
"SlowGamePercent" "0"
"SlowCapturePercent" "0"
"SlowConvertPercent" "0"
"SlowEncodePercent" "0"
"SlowNetworkPercent" "0"
"SlowDecodePercent" "0"
"SlowDisplayPercent" "0"
"AvgClientBitrate" "139.15805053710937"
"StdDevClientBitrate" "48.648380279541016"
"AvgServerBitrate" "11458.18359375"
"StdDevServerBitrate" "0"
"AvgLinkBandwidth" "73753.9921875"
"AvgPingMS" "5.0356717109680176"
"StdDevPingMS" "1.106476902961731"
"AvgCaptureMS" "2.1691818237304687"
"StdDevCaptureMS" "0.87761646509170532"
"AvgConvertMS" "0"
"StdDevConvertMS" "0"
"AvgEncodeMS" "2.1692588329315186"
"StdDevEncodeMS" "0.87765228748321533"
"AvgNetworkMS" "6.5861358642578125"
"StdDevNetworkMS" "2.4997954368591309"
"AvgDecodeMS" "2.3667137622833252"
"StdDevDecodeMS" "2.0969429016113281"
"AvgDisplayMS" "0.089436858892440796"
"StdDevDisplayMS" "0.22513489425182343"
"AvgFrameMS" "19.700180053710937"
"StdDevFrameMS" "3.8948462009429932"
"AvgFPS" "61.770557403564453"
"StdDevFPS" "13.594240188598633"
"BigPicture" "1"
"KeyboardMouseInput" "0"
"GameControllerInput" "1"
"SteamControllerInput" "0"
 

Tendo

Member
I'm going to have my link connected via eithernet but my pc wireless. Any idea how that should run? Not sure if this would be an option for me.
 

Dimmle

Member
I'm going to have my link connected via eithernet but my pc wireless. Any idea how that should run? Not sure if this would be an option for me.
How close is your PC to the router? Is there a line of sight? That'll help.

I have a similar question: I'm using a powerline adapter from my router to a PC downstairs. Will this create issues even if my Link is attached through ethernet?
 

Tendo

Member
How close is your PC to the router? Is there a line of sight? That'll help.

I have a similar question: I'm using a powerline adapter from my router to a PC downstairs. Will this create issues even if my Link is attached through ethernet?

Wireless modem is behind a wall - bathroom - wall. Straight line. I'm 5g connected at 5 bars if that means anything.
 

Hasney

Member
Wireless modem is behind a wall - bathroom - wall. Straight line. I'm 5g connected at 5 bars if that means anything.

You're going to need ac wireless at least probably. I have been OK with N, but I've died a few times due to hiccups in wireless.
 

JCX

Member
Still haven't gotten this to work. Tried wifi and wired, always crashes Steam on my computr when trying to connect.
 

Tendo

Member
You're going to need ac wireless at least probably. I have been OK with N, but I've died a few times due to hiccups in wireless.

Isn't 5ghz above N? I'm really not sure how to check. I have a netgear nighthawk i'm not using because comcast sent me some new modem/router that is super fast so I've just been connecting directly to that.
 

888

Member
Isn't 5ghz above N? I'm really not sure how to check. I have a netgear nighthawk i'm not using because comcast sent me some new modem/router that is super fast so I've just been connecting directly to that.

N can be 5Ghz or 2.4Ghz.

I also have a nighthawk, I would choose the nighthawk any day over anything ISP provided. I have Fios and their routers are crap and nat tables fill up super fast. Also had issues with having to many devices on the network such as multiple xbox 360 that would only allow 2 of them to have open nats etc etc. All of those issues went away with the nighthawk.
 

Tendo

Member
N can be 5Ghz or 2.4Ghz.

I also have a nighthawk, I would choose the nighthawk any day over anything ISP provided. I have Fios and their routers are crap and nat tables fill up super fast. Also had issues with having to many devices on the network such as multiple xbox 360 that would only allow 2 of them to have open nats etc etc. All of those issues went away with the nighthawk.

Do I need to put the comcast router into bridge mode or just plug an ethernet cable into the nighthawk?

Wouldn't it put off the same signal or lower than the modem?

I am not a clever man and dont know much about wi-fi.
 

888

Member
Do I need to put the comcast router into bridge mode or just plug an ethernet cable into the nighthawk?

Wouldn't it put off the same signal or lower than the modem?

I am not a clever man and dont know much about wi-fi.

The Nighthawk is a dual band 802.11ac router. Odds are the comcast router isn't AC. Not only that but ISP routers aren't the most feature packed devices.

What I do with my Fios router is create a 192.168.1.X network there. I then take my nighthawk and create a 10.0.0.X network there. Take a cat5 cable from the ISP modem to the WAN port on the nighthawk. From there log into the ISP router and find the area to do a static reservation for a MAC address. Find the MAC of the nighthawk and give it a reservation. Now on the ISP router assign the IP you gave to the nighthawk into a DMZ. Move all devices to the nighthawk.

This allows me to do all port forwarding on the nighthawk and I still get open nats etc. I also hit 90/90 speed tests with low ping. It is a straight shot to the net.

I have to keep the ISP router in the equation because I have Fios TV and Phone.
If I didn't have those services I would dump that router so fast.

You can re purpose the ISP router into a guest router if you wanted. I just turn off the firewall and wifi on mine and just let it sit there.
 

Tendo

Member
The Nighthawk is a dual band 802.11ac router. Odds are the comcast router isn't AC. Not only that but ISP routers aren't the most feature packed devices.

What I do with my Fios router is create a 192.168.1.X network there. I then take my nighthawk and create a 10.0.0.X network there. Take a cat5 cable from the ISP modem to the WAN port on the nighthawk. From there log into the ISP router and find the area to do a static reservation for a MAC address. Find the MAC of the nighthawk and give it a reservation. Now on the ISP router assign the IP you gave to the nighthawk into a DMZ. Move all devices to the nighthawk.

This allows me to do all port forwarding on the nighthawk and I still get open nats etc. I also hit 90/90 speed tests with low ping. It is a straight shot to the net.

I have to keep the ISP router in the equation because I have Fios TV and Phone.
If I didn't have those services I would dump that router so fast.

You can re purpose the ISP router into a guest router if you wanted. I just turn off the firewall and wifi on mine and just let it sit there.

I feel pretty tech literate but holy shit. Haha. Sounds like I have some work to do this weekend. I wish the comcast modem had come with any sort of documentation.
 

888

Member
I feel pretty tech literate but holy shit. Haha. Sounds like I have some work to do this weekend. I wish the comcast modem had come with any sort of documentation.

You can try bridge mode if you don't need the other router for other reasons.
 

sk3tch

Member
You can try bridge mode if you don't need the other router for other reasons.

This. I have a Netgear CM500 cable modem with Comcast and just bridge that to my Fortinet FortiWifi 90D. I personally use the AC Apple Airport Extreme (x2) and Time Capsule (x1) for a mesh wi-fi network. I had a NightHawk and deployed one at my bro's house - great units. If you're looking for quality and an "easy" button the Google wireless router seems to be solid. The "hardest" part for you will be to configure that bridge mode on the Comcast router. Do an "ipconfig" from a command-line in Windows and see what your default gateway IP address is, try to browse to it using http:// - I'm guessing Comcast left it unprotected (poke around in there and see if you can find bridge mode - backup the config and/or take screenshots so you can roll back if you F up or just call Comcast if you're not sure). If it is protected - you'll probably have to call them if you don't know the password. Set your new router (NightHawk, etc.) to use DHCP on the Internet port (or WAN) and you're set. Very easy even though it sounds like it is not by reading this. :)
 

888

Member
This. I have a Netgear CM500 cable modem with Comcast and just bridge that to my Fortinet FortiWifi 90D. I personally use the AC Apple Airport Extreme (x2) and Time Capsule (x1) for a mesh wi-fi network. I had a NightHawk and deployed one at my bro's house - great units. If you're looking for quality and an "easy" button the Google wireless router seems to be solid. The "hardest" part for you will be to configure that bridge mode on the Comcast router. Do an "ipconfig" from a command-line in Windows and see what your default gateway IP address is, try to browse to it using http:// - I'm guessing Comcast left it unprotected (poke around in there and see if you can find bridge mode - backup the config and/or take screenshots so you can roll back if you F up or just call Comcast if you're not sure). If it is protected - you'll probably have to call them if you don't know the password. Set your new router (NightHawk, etc.) to use DHCP on the Internet port (or WAN) and you're set. Very easy even though it sounds like it is not by reading this. :)

My man! Love Fortinet!


Got a response from Valve on the throttled Wifi for streaming. Pasting it below. I thought it felt throttled through them.

Edit: after going back and forth a few times I am going to link the main post I made there so it will be easier to follow the replies. He gave some awesome explanations on the links limitations.

http://steamcommunity.com/groups/homestream/discussions/0/483368526568717282/

Yes, the Steam Link is designed with an internal bandwidth limit. There are many factors involved in deciding on the limits such as power consumption, compatibility with other devices on the network, and the overall processing ability of the Link hardware.

The Steam Link is designed for real-world usage, and we have tried to set the limits appropriately so that users will not notice any gameplay-affecting visual artifacts when playing on a TV at a traditional viewing distance. In cases where we may be falling short of this goal right now, we will continue to improve the quality of the user experience, whether that means increasing the bandwidth or using some other means of reducing the visible artifacts.

That said, I would not ever expect the Link's internal limits to go as high as 100mbps. The small amount of quality gained by going from 80mbps to 100mbps (for example) is insignificant for real-world usage. For compaison, Blu-Ray movies are normally encoded around 40mbps.



Second response to another question in another thread:

We are still working on the Steam Client side of the networking code. There may be a problem with bandwidth estimation at the moment. I would suggest opting in to the Steam Client Beta to receive fixes as soon as we make them, or you can wait for the next full release of the Steam Client, which should happen a little bit before the start of retail sales for the Link.
 

sk3tch

Member
My man! Love Fortinet!


Got a response from Valve on the throttled Wifi for streaming. Pasting it below. I thought it felt throttled through them.

Edit: after going back and forth a few times I am going to link the main post I made there so it will be easier to follow the replies. He gave some awesome explanations on the links limitations.

http://steamcommunity.com/groups/homestream/discussions/0/483368526568717282/

Yes, the Steam Link is designed with an internal bandwidth limit. There are many factors involved in deciding on the limits such as power consumption, compatibility with other devices on the network, and the overall processing ability of the Link hardware.

The Steam Link is designed for real-world usage, and we have tried to set the limits appropriately so that users will not notice any gameplay-affecting visual artifacts when playing on a TV at a traditional viewing distance. In cases where we may be falling short of this goal right now, we will continue to improve the quality of the user experience, whether that means increasing the bandwidth or using some other means of reducing the visible artifacts.

That said, I would not ever expect the Link's internal limits to go as high as 100mbps. The small amount of quality gained by going from 80mbps to 100mbps (for example) is insignificant for real-world usage. For compaison, Blu-Ray movies are normally encoded around 40mbps.



Second response to another question in another thread:

We are still working on the Steam Client side of the networking code. There may be a problem with bandwidth estimation at the moment. I would suggest opting in to the Steam Client Beta to receive fixes as soon as we make them, or you can wait for the next full release of the Steam Client, which should happen a little bit before the start of retail sales for the Link.

Great stuff - thanks for sharing!
 

B4s5C

Member
So, I was wondering what recommendations people have for routers and wireless cards (for desktop)? I am looking for a router that is <$150 and a wireless card that would work best with it. My current wireless card is simply n and drops every 5 minutes so I wouldn't mind spending some extra cash to get a decent one.

Unfortunately because I rent my townhome, I have very little options of running an ethernet port from upstairs where I have my desktop to downstairs to the router. Both are at opposite ends of my house.

Edit: I am just going to run an ethernet cable and use nail clamps. $12 for the cord and clamps vs. $150 for the new wireless card and router ;_;
 
Beta update

Fixed issues with Toki Tori 2 and several other games which rely on VSync for animation timing
Fixed crashes on systems with certain AMD video drivers
Disabled AMD debugging functionality which wrote excessively large "amf.txt" files to the hard drive
 
I wish I could try this, but they still haven't added the Mac hosting for streaming. I want to know how this would work on my network before ordering a Steam Link device.
 

888

Member
Man whatever update they pushed has killed it for me even running a wire across the house to test. I notice the link has a slightly different interface now. Was trying to play blops2 and the performance was all over the place.
 

mbmonk

Member
Steam link stupid question: Can you power on the Link with a wireless controller ( Steam Controller or DS4 ) once it has been paired?

Thank you.
 

Iorv3th

Member
Steam link stupid question: Can you power on the Link with a wireless controller ( Steam Controller or DS4 ) once it has been paired?

Thank you.

That is the only way to turn it on as far as I know. Steam Controller will do it, not sure about DS4 and I think someone had said the 360 with the wireless adapter will not turn it on.
 

mbmonk

Member
That is the only way to turn it on as far as I know. Steam Controller will do it, not sure about DS4 and I think someone had said the 360 with the wireless adapter will not turn it on.

Thanks. I didn't think the Link would omit a power button on the device. Strange :).

I think I am going to go with the steam controller over the DS4. Thanks for the info.
 

SpotAnime

Member
I've got lots of games in my Steam Library for my kids but hate when they take over my game room. This Steam Link sounds like it's perfect in terms of convenience as well as quality. I'll bite come Christmas.

On a side note, I know Steam is getting more of a retail presence at Gamestop, but anyone know if Best Buy will be carrying these products as well? Would be nice so I can get the reward points. ;)
 

scitek

Member
Wanted to say I think I found the culprit for my framerates being complete garbage while streaming. I had my host PC hooked up to a 120Hz TV, and the client to a 60Hz projector. When I changed the host PC to 60Hz, things got a lot better. I was playing Mad Max set to Beautiful at 60fps via Wifi last night with very few problems.
 

Russ T

Banned
Is there an easy way to get my desktop on my screen? I tried adding a shortcut to a browser, which opened the browser and the immediately went back to the Big Picture Mode. Also, when it opened the browser it displayed both monitors on my TV screen, side by side, really small.
 

baconcow

Member
More testing and I am getting slightly better results. Still wired to all devices. Turn SLI and hardware encoding/decoding both off and streaming Dragon Age Origins is a lot better. However, still a lot of glitches when games start up. I am able to run Europa Universalis IV now pretty much the same performance as directly on my PC. Hopefully Valve will fix this SLI issue that I (and seemingly others) are having, as I rely on it to make many modern games run well. The hardware encoding/decoding thing seems to persist with SLI on and off. Once I turn them both off, things seem to become better. I have not yet tried things wirelessly.
 
Is there an easy way to get my desktop on my screen? I tried adding a shortcut to a browser, which opened the browser and the immediately went back to the Big Picture Mode. Also, when it opened the browser it displayed both monitors on my TV screen, side by side, really small.

Add notepad or use a game with a launcher. You can minimize those.
 

sprinkles

Member
I tested the Link for a few hours on Sunday. I had more problems than I thought after streaming without hiccups through IHS to a Chromebook with Chrubuntu when IHS launched some time ago.

It often seems to lose connection (TV with the Link just goes black and sound stops) for up to 30seconds. Sometimes it fixes itself, sometimes it goes back to the Start screen of the link and lets me choose my PC again. Both Link and my PC (AMD 7950 with a normal output to 2 monitors and a TV) are wired to a TP-Link Archer7. I don't know if it's the PC or the modem or the Link.
Played a few hours (Episode 4 of Life is Strange) yesterday over the link without having the problems above, maybe some of the beta updates fixed whatever caused the issues on my PC. I could not even see any compression artifacts, but LiS is not the twitchiest game to test that.

I used my spare PC dongle for 360 controllers connected with the Link, worked like a charm.
 

deleted

Member
I got the 8Bitdo SFC30 to connect to the Link. I just haven't found a configuration yet that to actually use it in games...

Bluetooth Keyboard, xinput device etc doesn't seem to work. Any ideas?

And Rocket League still gives me the weirdest frame drops. I tried playing at a friends place - it wasn't the same problem there - we used my Link. The game kept glitching out the more we played though. First game was usually smooth, second felt a little bit choppy (while still showing 60 FPS) and after that we had 1-3 hard drops during each game, where the screen just froze for a couple of seconds... No idea what's going on with that.

Is there a bug or recommendation section, where we can post this kinda stuff in Valves direction?
 

888

Member
I got the 8Bitdo SFC30 to connect to the Link. I just haven't found a configuration yet that to actually use it in games...

Bluetooth Keyboard, xinput device etc doesn't seem to work. Any ideas?

And Rocket League still gives me the weirdest frame drops. I tried playing at a friends place - it wasn't the same problem there - we used my Link. The game kept glitching out the more we played though. First game was usually smooth, second felt a little bit choppy (while still showing 60 FPS) and after that we had 1-3 hard drops during each game, where the screen just froze for a couple of seconds... No idea what's going on with that.

Is there a bug or recommendation section, where we can post this kinda stuff in Valves direction?

There is a steam group called in home streaming. That is where I got a response from valve. You can post there.
 

LooseLips

Member
Can anyone compare the stream quality to that of the Xbox app on Windows?

I can stream from my Xbox to PC - over a hard wired connection. The image is good, and I am streaming at Very High quality, but there is definitely a difference in colour and image quality from the original.

How does the Steam link fare? Can you compare the two experiences, Is it much the same, or is the quality on Steam Link better?
 

888

Member
Can anyone compare the stream quality to that of the Xbox app on Windows?

I can stream from my Xbox to PC - over a hard wired connection. The image is good, and I am streaming at Very High quality, but there is definitely a difference in colour and image quality from the original.

How does the Steam link fare? Can you compare the two experiences, Is it much the same, or is the quality on Steam Link better?

On my network even over WiFi with the link. The streaming is better than the xbox streaming even when the xbox is hardwired too
 

undecided

Member
Their recent changes to the network bandwidth calculations have completely ruined the steam link for me. It detects the fictional 30mbps of available bandwidth and limits it to 15mbps streaming, which is then resulting in horrible audio stuttering which makes games completely unplayable.

It worked great before the recent steam beta client updates
 

sk3tch

Member
Additional games in the "works well" category:
Toybox Turbos
Lego Jurassic World
Lego Worlds (despite warning that it's not "full" gamepad compatible)

Wired and wired.

Really happy with the Link. Makes me way more likely to play my Steam games - which is a huge plus. :)
 

Russ T

Banned
All right Steam has crashed on me four times today while using the Steam Link. I'm usually fairly patient about these sorts of things, but it's getting to be really fucking irritating, having to go to my computer and restart Steam every time.

Is it Big Picture Mode? Is it the Link connection? Is it the games I'm playing (Tales from the Borderlands and Undertale)?

Did I get a defective Link on top of the already defective Controller that's somehow CAUSING Steam to crash?

Or, please tell me this is so, is this just a problem lots of people are having?
 
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