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Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

Hansel?

Neo Member
So I'm never going to be in any tournaments, I'm awful... but SF2 is and always will be my favorite... I play it every day still.

Picked up that 8bitdo bluetooth stick for Switch and it's glorious... as someone who doesn't care about and actually kinda hates wires, please tell me there are decent options out there for bluetooth/wireless XBone sticks as well? Would love to play some of the games there... unless this 8bitdo can work on it too? I haven't even bothered trying...

I mean unless the sticks are completely non-functional, I'll take what I can find...
 

Morinaga

Member
Very nice!
So you 3D printed the whole case? In smaller bits that you put together or just one big chunk?

Thank you very much.

Yea so the case is printed in 10 separate pieces, held together with internal steel rods and bolts.Each piece was printer on an area size of 150mmX150mmX150mm.

Arcade sticks seem really good candidates for 3D printing to me.
Would you mind telling me how the process went? Any issues?

I agree cases like this are ideal for 3D printing, its been quite fun. Main issues were where the prints "curled" at the corners but this can fixed in the printer settings. I fixed it with model putty as I was painting it anyway. I also used M5 rods for supports to hold the pieces together and I should have probably used M4. Also I found printing above 35% infill totally unnecessary, so its printed at 35%. Plus it started to get really heavy without anything.

Sanding the case was difficult, especially since you don't want to inhale the plastic cloud that comes off. but that's common sense. Biggest issue was I ordered the top sheet of acrylic to 2mm, and due to the 3d printing process this turned out to be 1mm to much, so I had to get another sheet re-cut at 1mm.

Generally it was fairly trouble free but it was the details that had issues.



Below is a link to its main page with a whole load of info I didn't include the link at first because I put the model up sale and I didn't want the post to seem like a shameful plug.

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/games-toys/game-accessories/arcade-stick-case
 

Anne

Member
Thanks, Guess I'll save $50.

It's unfortunate because they know what the issue is, improved on it, and still didn't quite hit the mark. It is better than a 2nd gen monster, but not good enough yet to justify $50 IMO. It's still just too awkward feeling when the speed/force you feel on switches is all wrong when doing extended motions :T

I still don't think there is a silent joystick option on the market that I would use in a serious stick. Shit sucks, I'm just too used to he clickly clicks.
 

tanuki

Member
I just got a Brook UFB with presoldered header pins for my PS3 Madkatz TE1. Anyone know what kind of connector I need to get to hook up the old usb wiring to the pins?
 
It's unfortunate because they know what the issue is, improved on it, and still didn't quite hit the mark. It is better than a 2nd gen monster, but not good enough yet to justify $50 IMO. It's still just too awkward feeling when the speed/force you feel on switches is all wrong when doing extended motions :T

I still don't think there is a silent joystick option on the market that I would use in a serious stick. Shit sucks, I'm just too used to he clickly clicks.

Thanks, I was just curious as to how it would be.
 

BlastCore

Banned
A buddy of mine told me that a mayflash f500 that you replace with Sanwa buttons and stick is a better/cheaper alternative to buying a Madcatz or Qanba stick. Looking online it looks that no major stick is in-stock (for the MSRP at least) so Im thinking of doing it. Can anyone back up his claims?
 

Seyob

Member
It's unfortunate because they know what the issue is, improved on it, and still didn't quite hit the mark. It is better than a 2nd gen monster, but not good enough yet to justify $50 IMO. It's still just too awkward feeling when the speed/force you feel on switches is all wrong when doing extended motions :T

I still don't think there is a silent joystick option on the market that I would use in a serious stick. Shit sucks, I'm just too used to he clickly clicks.
What don't you like about the 2nd generation of silent Sanwa sticks (JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK)?
 

Anne

Member
What don't you like about the 2nd generation of silent Sanwa sticks (JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK)?

The switches in it just feel like garbage to me. It feels like I'm sliding the shaft around a gate made out of foam or something. I'm really not a fan since it lacks feedback I want while also having a bit of a curve on learning to do motions with that type of response. The 2nd gen is the roughest of the line I feel like, and people I've let use it before have asked what it is to avoid it. It's not outright terrible enough to say "never use" I think, but it feels so off from what you expect out of a JLF package that it's pretty meh. The 3rd gen stick solved the weird "foomy" feel of the 2nd gen, but the feedback on it is still nowhere near snappy enough to be a straight JLF replacement.

If I were to go that route, optical options just seem better outright and have similar drawbacks imo.

A buddy of mine told me that a mayflash f500 that you replace with Sanwa buttons and stick is a better/cheaper alternative to buying a Madcatz or Qanba stick. Looking online it looks that no major stick is in-stock (for the MSRP at least) so Im thinking of doing it. Can anyone back up his claims?

You're looking at $90 + another $50 in parts + time investment. If you have the tools and can do some of the rewiring yourself without a headaches it's def a cheaper option. I've mentioned it in this thread before though, the F500 is not a straight drop in for Sanwa and you might have to mess with some cabling. It's pretty simple, but if you haven't messed with wiring before it can be an issue.
 

Teh Lurv

Member
A buddy of mine told me that a mayflash f500 that you replace with Sanwa buttons and stick is a better/cheaper alternative to buying a Madcatz or Qanba stick. Looking online it looks that no major stick is in-stock (for the MSRP at least) so Im thinking of doing it. Can anyone back up his claims?

I own/use an F500 that I modded with Sanwa parts, but I wouldn't say it's better/cheaper option. Modding the stick brings the total cost to about ~$150 (PC) or ~$175 (PS4/XB1 with Magicboot dongle). That's in the ballpark of the higher end Hori, Qanba, & Razer sticks.
 

Hassun

Neo Member
A buddy of mine told me that a mayflash f500 that you replace with Sanwa buttons and stick is a better/cheaper alternative to buying a Madcatz or Qanba stick. Looking online it looks that no major stick is in-stock (for the MSRP at least) so Im thinking of doing it. Can anyone back up his claims?
Many people use the Venom/Mayflash sticks. They are a fine budget choice for people who want to try out an arcade stick without paying too much money.
You can mod them with a better lever and buttons but, like Teh Lurv said, that will bring the price closer to more expensive arcade sticks.

You also probably shouldn't get Mad Catz sticks anymore since they went bankrupt.
 

shockdude

Member
Even with MagicBoots dongles, the Mayflash sticks are a pretty good deal if you plan to mod the stick with non-Hori parts. particularly Seimitsu or Korean parts.

Edit: Turns out Mayflash put some new stuff out.
Mayflash F500 Replacement Acrylic Panel - $12. Should also be compatible with the Mayflash V2 and Venom stick.
61i4rDkilOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Mayflash F100 - $40. Compatible with XInput/DInput/PS3/Android OTG. Probably the cheapest moddable case & PCB combo that one can buy, and it even comes with decent stick parts for free.
Mayflash F500 MagicBoots Bundle - $131. It's the F500 but comes with all the MagicBoots dongles, meaning compatibility with PS4/XBO/PS3/360/XInput/DInput/Android OTG out of the box.
 
Many people use the Venom/Mayflash sticks are a fine budget choice for people who want to try out an arcade stick without paying too much money.
You can mod them with a better lever and buttons but, like Teh Lurv said, that will bring the price closer to more expensive arcade sticks.

You also probably shouldn't get Mad Catz sticks anymore since they went bankrupt.

This is it, and a great idea. I was one of these people. Loved the venom stick and upgraded it to sanwa parts. Then bought an HRAP4 Kai as a second stick (though after a few weeks I ultimately prefer the Hori and it's my primary)

IMO just buy an HRAP if money is not a huge issue.
 

Nuu

Banned
So I am installing my Brook PCB v 2017. However, I am concerned about the "home button".

http://i.imgur.com/Wwegf9e.jpg

I assumed that I would just be able to plug it (as it did to the left) and the home button and not would work fine, but that isn't the case. None of the buttons register. There seems to be a separate harness for the home button that connects to a specific button but the home button area has it's own harness.

Am I going to lose home button functionality or is there some type of connector I can use?
 
So I am installing my Brook PCB v 2017. However, I am concerned about the "home button".

http://i.imgur.com/Wwegf9e.jpg

I assumed that I would just be able to plug it (as it did to the left) and the home button and not would work fine, but that isn't the case. None of the buttons register. There seems to be a separate harness for the home button that connects to a specific button but the home button area has it's own harness.

Am I going to lose home button functionality or is there some type of connector I can use?
I'm not quite sure I understand, but if you are having trouble with the harnesses with the home button, why not just wire the home button into the screw terminal.
 
So I am installing my Brook PCB v 2017. However, I am concerned about the "home button".

http://i.imgur.com/Wwegf9e.jpg

I assumed that I would just be able to plug it (as it did to the left) and the home button and not would work fine, but that isn't the case. None of the buttons register. There seems to be a separate harness for the home button that connects to a specific button but the home button area has it's own harness.

Am I going to lose home button functionality or is there some type of connector I can use?

It looks like according to their harness diagram on the site: http://www.brookaccessory.com/Archive/_eng/upload/321.jpg

the J6 pin is the home/ps button. Don't forget you need a GND to also go to where those buttons are (the small board on the side with it) so that they work properly. You cannot connect "just" the home button and have it work.

You can, technically, chain the button GND to the home/etc buttons board on the side, but it's not a good idea to do that. In this case you have 3 GND to work with if using just the harness, one each for the stick, buttons and side buttons.

If you wanted to wire up the touchpad that has its own spot for a harness that is actually deceptively easy to wire if you're not afraid to do some cutting and twisting some wire caps on.
 

Nuu

Banned
Thanks for the responses. I decided to just sell my Hori and go custom.

I got a custom enclosure from a website, and the site has a link to a template that I can send to Tek Innovations or somewhere similar to get a custom art print out. I am interested in Tek Innovations as they have acustom artwork page. However, it doesn't say whether or not they come plexi glass to go over the custom templates or how I can get one.

If they can't do it, then is there any place where I can send the template and get the artwork printed with plexi glass or some type of cover?

EDIT - Never mind. It turns out if you email support they'll ship the enclosure with any artwork you want.
 

Teh Lurv

Member
Before Madcatz went bankrupt, I sent them my two month old TES stick that developed PCB issues. The company was in the middle of processing the RMA when they went under. I've resigned myself to the fact that the stick is probably gone for good, but I was reminded of it when I just came across the old UPS mailing receipt; so I figure I'd ask if anyone knows anything about what became of Madcatz's RMA pile? At this point, I'd settle for getting my broken stick back, I could then slap a Brooks PCB in it (which is what I should've done in the first place.)
 

Flaare

Neo Member
I've been reading this thread for a while and after using Hori sticks for years I finally did it.
After looking at all those custom sticks I decided to build my own.

I used white oak for the base, a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT stick and Sanwa OSBN buttons.
Working the plexi was a nightmare (never done it before). But i'm really happy with the result!

img_20170824_21310086spr.jpg


For the electronic part I got an old I-PAC board from a friend but I'm running in some programming issues with it on Windows 10. Not all the buttons accept new key bindings for some reason.
 

Neptonic

Member
I bought one of those Mayflash F300 universal sticks a while ago, and have been having trouble getting some inputs out. Would switching to an octogonal gate make it easier for me?
 

Earth

Banned
What is the best way to get battop screw adapters out of battops?

I managed to get one off wrapping a rubber band around my thumb.
So it's that, rubber gloves or pliers.

For the electronic part I got an old I-PAC board from a friend but I'm running in some programming issues with it on Windows 10. Not all the buttons accept new key bindings for some reason.

Could be a faulty/dead EEPROM.
 

Hassun

Neo Member

lupinko

Member
Anyone know if using a USB hub is bad on PS4 for multiple wired controllers? Because I now have to use an external HDD (2TB wasn't enough for me). This really just out of convenience because I can always just disconnect the external which just has some single player games on it or games that I'll only ever treat as single player anyway.
 

shockdude

Member
Anyone know if using a USB hub is bad on PS4 for multiple wired controllers? Because I now have to use an external HDD (2TB wasn't enough for me). This really just out of convenience because I can always just disconnect the external which just has some single player games on it or games that I'll only ever treat as single player anyway.
If the USB hub has an external power supply, there should be no issue.
Otherwise, there's a chance you could overdraw power from the USB port, which will probably lead to controller disconnects at the least. The chance of power overdraw is higher for controllers with rumble or for controllers with batteries to charge.
 

Anne

Member
Make sure you have the USB hub plugged into something you can't overdraw too. Don't wanna be like Evo this year with controllers lagging out and randomly disconnecting lmao.
 
Anyone got any suggestions on a relatively easy mod to add some grip to the bottom of a Tekken 7 Hori RAP (Hori N)? It's the one thing that it lacks versus my Panthera that I'd like to address someday. I don't need a full bottom surface cover, but just something I might be able to add to it so that it deters slipping when I play with it in my lap.
 

Anne

Member
Anyone got any suggestions on a relatively easy mod to add some grip to the bottom of a Tekken 7 Hori RAP (Hori N)? It's the one thing that it lacks versus my Panthera that I'd like to address someday. I don't need a full bottom surface cover, but just something I might be able to add to it so that it deters slipping when I play with it in my lap.

Find a material you like that has some more grip to it, then get some gorilla glue. I'm being serious, grab some foam pads or velvet and some adhesive and try to cut it so it looks nice.

Edit: Apparently you can get foam pads with adhesive already on them from a crasft shop or something. Carpet tape is a pretty good adhesive for whatever you're sticking on there too.
 
Find a material you like that has some more grip to it, then get some gorilla glue. I'm being serious, grab some foam pads or velvet and some adhesive and try to cut it so it looks nice.

Edit: Apparently you can get foam pads with adhesive already on them from a crasft shop or something. Carpet tape is a pretty good adhesive for whatever you're sticking on there too.

easy enough!
 

ScOULaris

Member
I haven't been following the arcade stick scene lately. Since Mad Catz went under, I'm under the impression that there really hasn't been much in the way of exciting new arcade stick offerings on the horizon.

What are some noteworthy releases from the last year or so? Anything cool from Hori or Qanba for the PS4/PC?

EDIT: Oh, well look at this. The PS4 iteration of the etokki Omni is coming out at the end of this month! So sexy.
 
I haven't been following the arcade stick scene lately. Since Mad Catz went under, I'm under the impression that there really hasn't been much in the way of exciting new arcade stick offerings on the horizon.

What are some noteworthy releases from the last year or so? Anything cool from Hori or Qanba for the PS4/PC?

EDIT: Oh, well look at this. The PS4 iteration of the etokki Omni is coming out at the end of this month! So sexy.
Hori made a pretty badass Tekken version of the Rap V.

Also, the SF V Panthera is quite well-made. If only it wasn't emblazoned with a SF V logo.
 

oc

peanutbutterchocolate
My brand new(few months, barely used) SF5 TE2+ isn’t working correctly. Some buttons don’t work and it presses down when i try to press up on the joystick :(

What can I do?
 

Anne

Member
My brand new(few months, barely used) SF5 TE2+ isn't working correctly. Some buttons don't work and it presses down when i try to press up on the joystick :(

What can I do?

Sounds like the typical TE2+ PCB failure. I would tell you to contact Madcatz support, but they're out of business. You can contact whoever you got it from to see if they can help, but I dunno what to tell you past that.

If you want to keep the thing you'd need to replace the whole PCB which can require some effort and probably a decent chunk of change.

Edit: Also sorry, I know this shit sucks. Maybe somebody else here knows a better option.
 

Edzi

Member
My brand new(few months, barely used) SF5 TE2+ isn’t working correctly. Some buttons don’t work and it presses down when i try to press up on the joystick :(

What can I do?

You don't want to hear this, but you probably shouldn't have gotten the te2+ since it's got known issues with the pcb. You can either try to replace it like I did with a brook universal board (very easy to do, but costs about $130) or buy a new stick since Mad Catz isn't around anymore to offer replacements/fixes.
 

oc

peanutbutterchocolate
You don't want to hear this, but you probably shouldn't have gotten the te2+ since it's got known issues with the pcb. You can either try to replace it like I did with a brook universal board (very easy to do, but costs about $130) or buy a new stick since Mad Catz isn't around anymore to offer replacements/fixes.
Welp...

Thanks for info guys :( Anyone want to buy a TE2+ in perfect condition? Aside from it not working...
 

Anne

Member
Welp...

Thanks for info guys :( Anyone want to buy a TE2+ in perfect condition? Aside from it not working...

The case itself along with the Sanwa parts would be worth something on their own for a modder that could just do a PCB replacement FWIW. If you just want PS3/PS4/PC functionality you could probably swing the Brook board for that with an install for under a hundred bucks. If you want full 360/XB1/PS3/PS$/WiiU/Switch/PC support there is an ez install option you could do yourself at home for about $130 like somebody else said.

Just giving you options if you have the cash and like the TE2 enough to just put the money into making it a nice multiconsole stick rather than get a different replacement.

Edit: I've seen dead TE2s go for upwards of a hundred bucks. It is a nice casing and decent stick, just the PCBs have issues.
 

Hassun

Neo Member
Welp...

Thanks for info guys :( Anyone want to buy a TE2+ in perfect condition? Aside from it not working...
The housing is a very good arcade stick, definitely consider continuing to use it but if you don't want to I'm sure you'll be able to sell it as well.
 

Edzi

Member
Welp...

Thanks for info guys :( Anyone want to buy a TE2+ in perfect condition? Aside from it not working...

Where did you buy it from? If it was from Amazon, its worth it to talk to customer support since they'd probably give you a full or partial refund.
 

oc

peanutbutterchocolate
Where did you buy it from? If it was from Amazon, its worth it to talk to customer support since they'd probably give you a full or partial refund.
I got it from Frys, already spoke to them and they won’t take it back lol. I guess my brother got a hold of someone that will be at SCR. I’ll see what he can do, hopefully.

Thanks for your help guys. Will update if I get it fixed.
 

Tripon

Member
I haven't been following the arcade stick scene lately. Since Mad Catz went under, I'm under the impression that there really hasn't been much in the way of exciting new arcade stick offerings on the horizon.

What are some noteworthy releases from the last year or so? Anything cool from Hori or Qanba for the PS4/PC?

EDIT: Oh, well look at this. The PS4 iteration of the etokki Omni is coming out at the end of this month! So sexy.

The current Onmi has been out for a year and some change. This is the 7th revision and is the one I have (I went with the Fanta stick) and is my current stick. It's expensive, but worth it if you want to try something different and built solidly.
 

Teh Lurv

Member
Does anyone have tips or suggestion on cleaning buttons?

Last night I noticed the HK button on my stick has started to occasionally drop an input. I went into training mode and I found although the button works fine when I give it a firm press, when I lightly tap the button it fails to register. I also noticed the button seems slightly stiffer the press than the other buttons.

On the same note: When and what kind of preventive maintenance should I be doing on my fight stick's joystick parts and buttons? I switched from pad to stick last December but hadn't given much though to maintenance until today.
 
The hayabusa short throw buttons are so much better than expected... I had bought Sanwa to replace the Hori buttons, but I'm having a hard time deciding now

Compliments to Hori for all the improvements!
 
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