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[Wiped89]

Maybe it's just learning how to use the settings properly for LG, they are quite different to the Samsung - which I was basing my earlier posts on.

On the Dark Knight now, which was always going to be a film suited to OLED. Getting better, I think. Still a little 'flat'

I appreciate everyone's help



EDIT: But Netflix is still hot garbage with the same settings (oled 50, contrast 80, brightness 53, h/v Sharpness 0, colour 50). This is what I mean by upscaling performance, Netflix is dog rough.



EDIT 2: Netflix getting better. Setting up this TV is very hard work. Also: the built in Netflix PQ is horrific.

I still think it lacks some sharpness against my Samsung, but the colours are rich. The below is on the PS4 Pro's Netflix.

 

[Kyoufu]

70 colour...

40 brightness...

Yeah, no wonder.

 

[Geneijin]

You guys already know what kind of settings and picture he wanted from his earlier posts.
There's no way trying to give some closer to reference settings is going to help.

Aren't you still in Vivid mode?

Not trying to shame him, but this is the exact reason calibration is for. It's to avoid situations like these guesstimating.

Has anyone got any suggestions?

Current settings: Brightness 40, Sharpness 25, oled 100, colour 75, contrast 100, Gamma High2; colour temp 0 tint 0. I like a bright punchy picture. The reason I have a Samsung phone instead of an iPhone is for the lovely bright crisp Amoled screen.

Adjust your Brightness and Contrast at the very least with AVS HD709 even if you're into cooler color temperatures. Once your Brightness and Contrast settings are appropriate, try reverting your Gamma back to its default to Medium, not High 2. Medium is basically 2.2 renamed in Game mode. High 2 is BT. 1886 2.4 if I remember my last measurements. The color is well, experiment really :lol

 

[wege12]

No problem, just PM your email. Sorry I haven't gotten it to you sooner.

PM sent. Thank you

 

[Yawnny]

Gaf, am I crazy? I can't get into this LG C6. After a week with it, I'm finding the TV hard to love.

In particular, the upscaling is really bad. No matter the settings there is a softness to the picture and quite a lot of fuzz. I'm also unimpressed by the detail loss, side by side comparisons with my Samsung show me how much detail I'm losing in dark and detailed areas, like hair. Blowing the brightness higher just washes out the whole picture.

Even the colours look off, like it's both too yellow and too blue both at once.

The picture is so soft and grainy.

I feel like the screen tech itself is great, but ruined by LG's lousy picture processing.


The passive 3D is also really flat and dull. Worse than my old active 3dtv.

I looked at Currys again and I can get a 65" KS8000 for only £50 more, which is a full 10" bigger. I'm seriously considering calling up and swapping it. My 2014 Samsung UE55HU8500 is brighter and sharper, it's just the black/Grey that lets it down.

Hell, even my 7 year old 40" Samsung 1080p isn't embarrassed by this oled. It's clearly worse but not embarrassed.

Has anyone got any suggestions?

Current settings: Brightness 40, Sharpness 25, oled 100, colour 75, contrast 100, Gamma High2; colour temp 0 tint 0. I like a bright punchy picture. The reason I have a Samsung phone instead of an iPhone is for the lovely bright crisp Amoled screen.

1080P even through the Netflix APP looks fantastic to me. I run Expert Dark Room, contrast 85, Brightness 52, Color 50..

 

[Art Vandilay]

PM sent. Thank you

Not seeing it, but I am on my phone. Can juniors PM?

 

[jstevenson]

the in TV Netflix App is just fine.

It does have it's own settings though, vs the HDMI input settings.

 

[ponziacs]

I think you need a Sony if you want good 720/1080 upscaling. I don't know how rtings does their reviews but the upscaling on my ks8000 was terrible compared to my Sony 810. I sold my ks8000 and will never buy another Samsung unless they can start matching Sony's upscaling.

 

[Madness]

I think you need a Sony if you want good 720/1080 upscaling. I don't know how rtings does their reviews but the upscaling on my ks8000 was terrible compared to my Sony 810. I sold my ks8000 and will never buy another Samsung unless they can start matching Sony's upscaling.

Yeah my X800D has a pretty solid 4K and 1080p image for all modes, the KS8000 I wasn't really happy until I went for D65 reference. Thet have great image processing. I hadn't owned Sony since the Trinitron days.

What is funny is this year Sony did solid blacks and brightness while Samsung went for near perfect color and accuracy.

 

[Rhazer Fusion]

Right, I'll turn it off. I turned on the mpeg stuff because the fuzz on Netflix was severe without it.

This pic should be working now?



Not the best comparison but hopefully you can see how much more detail/brightness/clarity there is in the right TV (the old, non OLED one). And that's with brightness at 50.

Yeah, that picture in the left is set way too dark. All of the details are getting crushed. Also, it seems like it is maybe too colorful or something? The settings form a Samsung to the LG OLED at least to my experience are generally quite different from each other.

I do wonder why everyone say put the sharpness on 0 on their OLEDs? I like a little sharpness in my picture. It makes it look a little less blurry.

 

[k1t4j]

B6!!

Thought so, but wasn't sure because I've seen others ask the same thing for that low amount lol. Anyway, check prices on the LG B6 in your region.

Thanks guys, waiting for Amazon.es to have one in storage and will get this one. It's within the price range.

Thanks a lot!!

 

[holygeesus]

You don't need to put sharpness to 0 on these OLEDs. I know generally that is the rule for most TVs but you are fine leaving them at the default 10. 0 looks awful in my opinion.

Also, a setting of 40 for brightness is just ridiculous. It's almost as if you are trying to make the picture look bad. 50 is a minimum, but even that will not be adequate if there is any ambient light, and you are on 2.2 gamma. I can only use 50 for my brightness, with 2.4, otherwise I crush all shadow detail (which is what is happening in the pictures above)

Saying that, anything above 51 on mine, and you start losing absolute black. Even on 51 there is *some* glowing on certain material.

Try these settings as a baseline, bearing in mind I have tweaked slightly my 20-point settings, to bring out increased shadow detail.

ISF Dark
OLED - 67 (but to taste really)
Contrast 84/85 (again depending on preference)
Brightness 51

Everything else on default. Only disable all processing and TruMotion settings.

 

[Wiped89]

Thanks everyone. I think I'm getting into it now.

It's funny how your eyes play tricks on you. I always used to compare my phone to my TV because my Samsung's OLED always had punchier colours and deeper blacks and I said 'I want a TV made out of this' to my gf so many times.

Now if I put Netflix on my phone the colours look bland in comparison to the TV. My iPad 4 is unwatchable.

However, I have had a slight issue with HDMIs, the TV keeps dropping the connection especially if I swap between 3D or 4K and normal display. I had to remove and re insert the HDMI about 5 times to play a bluray just now. Annoying!

 

[ShapeGSX]

It's not burn in. You cannot get burn in with these TVs. it's a fault by the look of it. No burn-in is selective in that way. On old plasmas et al, if you watched 2.35:1 material, you would get a line all the way across the screen, not just a few sporadic places.

Either way, you will not get burn in. Temporary image retention? Sure, but nothing permanent.

Why do you think that you can't get burn-in with OLEDs? There is an OLED TV at the local Best Buy with HORRIBLE burn-in.

 

[holygeesus]

Why do you think that you can't get burn-in with OLEDs? There is an OLED TV at the local Best Buy with HORRIBLE burn-in.

Sorry I should have qualified my statement with - 'you can't get burn in on these sets, unless you leave them on for weeks and weeks at a time 24/7 with static images of logos on screen'

They are designed to clean away any image retention when they are turned off for a reason. Has that Best Buy TV *ever* been switched off?

Edit - ahh, you are the guy who claims there is 'too much wrong with these 2016 OLEDs to consider them' - say no more.

 

[Kyoufu]

Why do you think that you can't get burn-in with OLEDs? There is an OLED TV at the local Best Buy with HORRIBLE burn-in.

In actual real world usage where you view different content and not the same demo looping over and over and also turning off the set, you'll barely get image retention let alone burn-in.

Store demos never reflect real world use.

 

[ShapeGSX]

Sorry I should have qualified my statement with - 'you can't get burn in on these sets, unless you leave them on for weeks and weeks at a time 24/7 with static images of logos on screen'

They are designed to clean away any image retention when they are turned off for a reason. Has that Best Buy TV *ever* been switched off?

Edit - ahh, you are the guy who claims there is 'too much wrong with these 2016 OLEDs to consider them' - say no more.

That's a reasonable explanation.

And yes, for me, there is too much wrong with these 2016 OLEDs to consider them. I was going to get one to replace my current Sony XBR-65X900A 4K TV because I wanted to keep 3D and get an OLED. But I don't like LG's image processing. And the 3D sweet spot is WAY too small compared to my current TV (which also has passive 3D). So I'm going to wait a few years.

So I'll have to sacrifice 3D when I get a new TV in a few years, but I'd rather sacrifice 3D than get image processing that bugs me the other 99% of the time I'm using the TV.

This is a personal decision. I'm not knocking your decision to get one. It's a gorgeous set. I am just more sensitive to image processing than most.

 

[holygeesus]

This is a personal decision. I'm not knocking your decision to get one. It's a gorgeous set. I am just more sensitive to image processing than most.

That's fine and I am the first to admit these sets aren't perfect, yet nigh on every post you make in here seems to be slamming the set you have no wish to buy. Just seems an odd agenda.

Anyhoo, changing the subject, Horizon Zero Dawn is the first game that has blown me away in HDR on this set. Granted, I've only played RE7 before now, but really, bravo. There does seem to be conflicting reports over the brightness of HDR Game Mode compared to the other HDR settings, but I can't notice any significant variation between them, but then I have been using HDR Standard, which is dimmer anyway.

I have noticed ABL kicking in though, which is a first for me when gaming with the B6. I'm guessing that is a side effect of having OLED light maxed out at 100. For those who are considering just ditching HDR Game and using Vivid, be aware that the response time has been retested since the last update, and they are now a lot more sluggish at ~80ms so worth avoiding if possible.

 

[GreenMonkey]

Loving my 65E6. Watched our first couple of movies. Moana 3D with the family yesterday and the 3D was pretty great. I was impressed.

Watched Pacific Rim on UHD BD and it was ridiculously clear.

I haven't tweaked it much yet though. Running ISF dark with the contrast turned down a bit to 75.

 

[molnizzle]

In actual real world usage where you view different content and not the same demo looping over and over and also turning off the set, you'll barely get image retention let alone burn-in.

Store demos never reflect real world use.

I dunno, they said the same thing about my Panasonic plasma and I still have burn-in from the Destiny HUD in the lower left corner despite not having played the game for months.

I imagine these OLED's are still quite susceptible to HUD burn in if you game a lot.

 

[Art Vandilay]

PSA: Planet Earth 2 4K HDR bluray releases tomorrow.

 

[dallow_bg]

I dunno, they said the same thing about my Panasonic plasma and I still have burn-in from the Destiny HUD in the lower left corner despite not having played the game for months.

I imagine these OLED's are still quite susceptible to HUD burn in if you game a lot.

OLEDs are being used as desktop monitors and some laptops even have OLED screen options.
These are definitely not plasmas. You won't have issues.

 

[Kyoufu]

I dunno, they said the same thing about my Panasonic plasma and I still have burn-in from the Destiny HUD in the lower left corner despite not having played the game for months.

I imagine these OLED's are still quite susceptible to HUD burn in if you game a lot.

I'm getting deja vu here, but your plasma TV doesn't do any of the things these new OLED TVs do to prevent and clean up any image retention.

I've gamed plenty on mine and there's no burn-in.

 

[PeterVenkman]

I dunno, they said the same thing about my Panasonic plasma and I still have burn-in from the Destiny HUD in the lower left corner despite not having played the game for months.

I imagine these OLED's are still quite susceptible to HUD burn in if you game a lot.

I use mine as a living room pc and media center. Played through tons of borderlands, dark souls, The Witcher and now Zelda. Image retention happened, but there is no burn in. I even use adobe cc on this thing for hours - no guide line burn in, no windows taskbar nothin.

 

[holygeesus]

I'm getting deja vu here, but your plasma TV doesn't do any of the things these new OLED TVs do to prevent and clean up any image retention.

I've gamed plenty on mine and there's no burn-in.

I know, I feel like we are repeating ourselves time and time again. It always seems to be non-owners of the sets who think they know best too. It's very odd.

 

[Yawnny]

Why do you think that you can't get burn-in with OLEDs? There is an OLED TV at the local Best Buy with HORRIBLE burn-in.

Have you ever owned an OLED or are you trying to convince yourself they suck?

I've said this a number of times throughout the last couple of pages in this thread since my B6 purchase last week but I'll say it again: I am SO glad I just bit the bullet and bought this TV. Could not be happier. After seeing some people bash image processing/upscaling, Brightness, image retention, etc I'm happy none of this jumped out at me.

1080p upscaling on the B6 blew my expectations out of the water, been using as a PC Montor and all the Color accuracy and uniformity makes anything I throw at it look fantastic.

I will never go back to any different type of lighting, from my Edle Lit quatros back in the day, to my Sony FALD XBR-HX909, to my Panny VT25, nothing compares to my B6.

I feel like there's a ton of analysis paralysis with people speculating about TVs, trying to convince themselves one tv is better than the next with a lot of it having to do with the price of the TVs (understandably), but in the end I'm glad I went OLED and I haven't had to 'convince' myself that issues aren't issues (ie: viewing angle, blooming, etc..) I just look at the tv and grin.

I'm almost glad that there's some debby downer naysayers out there because it made me a bit nervous and more excited to see what the set was actually like.. and that much more happy when I saw how beautiful it was.

 

[Kyoufu]

I know, I feel like we are repeating ourselves time and time again. It always seems to be non-owners of the sets who think they know best too. It's very odd.

After plasma TVs I can't blame anyone who is wary of burn-in issues. I didn't have any problems but I know others who did.

But people need to understand that these OLEDs, the 2016 models in particular, do things on the software side to prevent burn-in while also keeping any retention strictly temporary.

I've had my E6 for 8 months now and I play a lot of video games, so you'd think I'd run into burn-in already if it was a problem.

 

[tokkun]

I know, I feel like we are repeating ourselves time and time again. It always seems to be non-owners of the sets who think they know best too. It's very odd.

I can explain it to you, because I had the exact same experience this guy did. Lots of owners claimed to me that new generation of Panasonic plasmas had fixed all the previous retention problems. I even did all the rigamarole suggested on AVS forums to make it less likely to occur, like running colored slides for many hours before using it normally. However my first-hand experience was that although I didn't have any "burn-in" strictly speaking, I did have HUD elements from games stay visible for months after I finished playing them. It was so obvious a problem to me that I couldn't comprehend how others would have said that the issue was fixed, and I later encountered plenty of others who had the same experience.

It therefore seems like a natural human response to be skeptical when presented with similar claims about OLED and to only believe it when you've seen it firsthand.

 

[holygeesus]

It therefore seems like a natural human response to be skeptical when presented with similar claims about OLED and to only believe it when you've seen it firsthand.

Likewise some of us do own OLEDs, have owned plasmas that have screen-burned and have first hand experience of both, yet people choose to ignore us and believe internet myths. It's bizarre. Only seems to happen with these OLEDs too.

Even a non-owner has to appreciate what the compensation cycle does right? Unless you never turn your TV off, like ever, any residual image retention from HUDs or black bars etc is cleaned away. I don't understand why people doubt this. If anything, compensation cycles aren't even needed, as any IR I have seen (i.e. once when playing The Witness in HDR) disappears through normal use, within a few seconds anyway.

 

[Lima]

Just make sure to never turn it completely off. I know some people use sockets with switches to reduce standby usage. In that case the program can't do it's thing. There have also been cases where LG refused to repair OLED's under warranty in his situation.

 

[PLASTICA-MAN]

No way the KS8000/9000 could get increased nits or Dolby Vision or HLG support through firmware updates right? The changes need to be in the hardware?

 

[Art Vandilay]

Have you ever owned an OLED or are you trying to convince yourself they suck?

I've said this a number of times throughout the last couple of pages in this thread since my B6 purchase last week but I'll say it again: I am SO glad I just bit the bullet and bought this TV. Could not be happier. After seeing some people bash image processing/upscaling, Brightness, image retention, etc I'm happy none of this jumped out at me.

1080p upscaling on the B6 blew my expectations out of the water, been using as a PC Montor and all the Color accuracy and uniformity makes anything I throw at it look fantastic.

I will never go back to any different type of lighting, from my Edle Lit quatros back in the day, to my Sony FALD XBR-HX909, to my Panny VT25, nothing compares to my B6.

I feel like there's a ton of analysis paralysis with people speculating about TVs, trying to convince themselves one tv is better than the next with a lot of it having to do with the price of the TVs (understandably), but in the end I'm glad I went OLED and I haven't had to 'convince' myself that issues aren't issues (ie: viewing angle, blooming, etc..) I just look at the tv and grin.

I'm almost glad that there's some debby downer naysayers out there because it made me a bit nervous and more excited to see what the set was actually like.. and that much more happy when I saw how beautiful it was.

Are you a lawyer? Asking because I've never heard a non-lawyer use the phrase analysis paralysis before.

 

[Lima]

No way the KS8000/9000 could get increased nits or Dolby Vision or HLG support through firmware updates right? The changes need to be in the hardware?

Definitely no to increased nits.

HLG seems very likely since it's just the broadcast standard for HDR10 but then again it will be years before you actually see it in use. Dolby Vision is trickier. It requires a licensed chip so this would require a new One Connect box. Not out of the realm of possibility but more likely the answer is no.

 

[tokkun]

Likewise some of us do own OLEDs, have owned plasmas that have screen-burned and have first hand experience of both, yet people choose to ignore us and believe internet myths. It's bizarre. Only seems to happen with these OLEDs too.

The people who claimed the new plasmas didn't suffer from burn-in said the same thing. They owned new sets and old sets, so you could trust their claims. And people who trusted them ended up feeling misled.

Even a non-owner has to appreciate what the compensation cycle does right? Unless you never turn your TV off, like ever, any residual image retention from HUDs or black bars etc is cleaned away. I don't understand why people doubt this. If anything, compensation cycles aren't even needed, as any IR I have seen (i.e. once when playing The Witness in HDR) disappears through normal use, within a few seconds anyway.

Same technology-based arguments were made about the tech in plasmas. "Pixel orbiter will prevent IR. And if it doesn't you just need to run the scrolling bar once."

Part of the problem is that owners can really only comment on how it works for the limited time they have owned it. I don't think you can claim that you know the compensation will continue working well after 5+ years of use.

 

[Lima]

You don't keep a TV around for 5+ years these days.

 

[Paragon]

20170323_234621_zpsayyqwgj7.jpg
Not the best comparison but hopefully you can see how much more detail/brightness/clarity there is in the right TV (the old, non OLED one). And that's with brightness at 50.

If brightness is at 50 and it looks like that, it seems like you have the video levels set incorrectly.
That looks like a player outputting a full range signal with the TV set to accept a limited range signal.

This from Pan's Labyrinth bluray right now. I dunno... just looks dull to me?
20170326_232957_zpsgmtckhmf.jpg

Not really sure what you're expecting from a film like Pan's Labyrinth.
It's not exactly known for being a bright and vivid looking film.
It's not the exact frame, but here's a shot from that scene directly off the Blu-ray.

Now if I put Netflix on my phone the colours look bland in comparison to the TV. My iPad 4 is unwatchable.

It's only one of the more accurate consumer displays out there.
If you don't like what you're seeing, you don't like how the movie/show is intended to look.

But people need to understand that these OLEDs, the 2016 models in particular, do things on the software side to prevent burn-in while also keeping any retention strictly temporary.

Many plasmas had these features too. Image orbiters, ABL/ASBL, and screen wipe routines were common features.
The only thing OLED has which is different is that it will automatically run compensation cycles after every four hours of use when the TV is on standby.

I can explain it to you, because I had the exact same experience this guy did. Lots of owners claimed to me that new generation of Panasonic plasmas had fixed all the previous retention problems. I even did all the rigamarole suggested on AVS forums to make it less likely to occur, like running colored slides for many hours before using it normally. However my first-hand experience was that although I didn't have any "burn-in" strictly speaking, I did have HUD elements from games stay visible for months after I finished playing them. It was so obvious a problem to me that I couldn't comprehend how others would have said that the issue was fixed, and I later encountered plenty of others who had the same experience.

It therefore seems like a natural human response to be skeptical when presented with similar claims about OLED and to only believe it when you've seen it firsthand.

That was my experience with Pioneer and Panasonic plasmas too.
I think people claiming it was not an issue either had very varied usage patterns or mostly watched fullscreen content without anything static on the screen, didn't know what to look for - or never bothered to look, or were outright lying.
It was never a solved problem for Plasma TVs the way it was solved for CRTs.
I've never seen a late-model CRT with burn-in unless it was used in a commercial setting. Not even PC monitors which would be displaying static images for long periods of time.
Every plasma I've owned had issues with image retention and burn-in. Yes, proper burn-in. My first Kuro had game HUDs permanently burned in that faded but never disappeared after months of use and hundreds of hours on the set.

 

[holygeesus]

You don't keep a TV around for 5+ years these days.

I don't keep a static image on my screen for 5 years straight either! Seriously, some of the paranoia in this thread is blowing my mind. If IR disappears it isn't going to miraculously reappear 5 years down the line.

 

[MosquitoSmasher]

I've been trying to adjust to watching shows and movies with Trumotion off but I just can't get used to it, there definitely is a blur. If I use smooth it's just bad, real bad and clear ain't all that either.

What are the best settings for "user" to get a smooth movie/show without it looking cheap?

EC9300.

 

[SourBear]

RE: upscaling

Aren't you better off doing the upscaling in a good home theatre receiver anyway? Assuming you have the desire and space to have a home theatre receiver.

 

[Number45]

You don't keep a TV around for 5+ years these days.

Still running with my 7+ year old Pioneer plasma, and should be keeping it until at least next year. It's too fucking good.

 

[Yawnny]

I can explain it to you, because I had the exact same experience this guy did. Lots of owners claimed to me that new generation of Panasonic plasmas had fixed all the previous retention problems. I even did all the rigamarole suggested on AVS forums to make it less likely to occur, like running colored slides for many hours before using it normally. However my first-hand experience was that although I didn't have any "burn-in" strictly speaking, I did have HUD elements from games stay visible for months after I finished playing them. It was so obvious a problem to me that I couldn't comprehend how others would have said that the issue was fixed, and I later encountered plenty of others who had the same experience.

It therefore seems like a natural human response to be skeptical when presented with similar claims about OLED and to only believe it when you've seen it firsthand.

Yep, I hear what you're saying. I had a similar reaction when people talked about the buzzing that some plasmas can emit. I read what people were saying how they couldn't hear it (usually older people with that frequency out of their range of hearing), to other people saying "it's not that noticeable". I had to return my VT25 after a while, couldn't take that directional buzzing.

 

[Yawnny]

Are you a lawyer? Asking because I've never heard a non-lawyer use the phrase analysis paralysis before.

lol, nope, not a lawyer

You don't keep a TV around for 5+ years these days.

Once I find a set I like I seem to stick with it for longer than 5.. unless it breaks, but I've been really lucky in that regard..

Again that's once I find a set I like.. if I don't like a set I'll return it and get another right away, did this when I was rotating through plasmas that had a buzz, and sharp quatros, at the time..

The fact that re-selling TV's is a pain in the ass makes me more "choosey" and tend to stick with a high end set and for a longer period of time.

 

[Wiped89]

If brightness is at 50 and it looks like that, it seems like you have the video levels set incorrectly.
That looks like a player outputting a full range signal with the TV set to accept a limited range signal.

Not really sure what you're expecting from a film like Pan's Labyrinth.
It's not exactly known for being a bright and vivid looking film.
It's not the exact frame, but here's a shot from that scene directly off the Blu-ray.

It's only one of the more accurate consumer displays out there.
If you don't like what you're seeing, you don't like how the movie/show is intended to look.

That is on the TV's built in Netflix, so signal doesn't come into it.

Perhaps you're right; looking at that Pan's shot, it's almost 1:1. Perhaps I'm in a serious re-adjustment phase, having spent years looking at a souped up, brightened Samsung picture to make up for the LED's flaws, and now 'accurate' looks dull to me.

Having said that, I went into the store again today and looked at the TVs side by side. There is no doubt, the colour reproduction is fantastic on OLED. What looked green on the LG was off-green on the Samsung beside it. But I do think there is a 'cheapness' to the C6's picture that is not apparent on the E6, which I also looked at (and is out of my price range!). The C6 looks grainy and muted in comparison, it isn't just my eyes, and the ABL is obvious on any white image, which is just grey.

I have also got some HDMI problems, last night I got a crazy green and black light show when I tried to play a regular bluray, and then had to restart multiple times to get the signal to show up. This has happened multiple times now, so Curry's has agreed to a return. It has faulty HDMIs for sure.

My key problem now is: do I go for the same OLED again, knowing that I'm irritated by the ABL, or go for the 65" Samsung KS8000 at the same price, and risk hating the colours/blacks? I'm not sure now.

 

[Yawnny]

That is on the TV's built in Netflix, so signal doesn't come into it.

Perhaps you're right; looking at that Pan's shot, it's almost 1:1. Perhaps I'm in a serious re-adjustment phase, having spent years looking at a souped up, brightened Samsung picture to make up for the LED's flaws, and now 'accurate' looks dull to me.

In my opinion this most likely answers the majority issues you're experiencing

I have also got some HDMI problems, last night I got a crazy green and black light show when I tried to play a regular bluray, and then had to restart multiple times to get the signal to show up. This has happened multiple times now, so Curry's has agreed to a return. It has faulty HDMIs for sure.

This also introduces the possibility that any color settings on the HDMI port could be skewed?

My key problem now is: do I go for the same OLED again, knowing that I'm irritated by the ABL, or go for the 65" Samsung KS8000 at the same price, and risk hating the colours/blacks? I'm not sure now.

Go with what you really feel on this, I know you're not sure but you also don't need to make yourself like OLED.. I know that didn't really answer the question but TVs cost a lot of money and you have every right to be content with your purchase.

 

[DOT DASH DOT]

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/kd55xe9305-201703274446.htm

XE93 another excellent review! Baby ZD9

 

[holygeesus]

My key problem now is: do I go for the same OLED again, knowing that I'm irritated by the ABL, or go for the 65" Samsung KS8000 at the same price, and risk hating the colours/blacks? I'm not sure now.

If you aren't happy with the C6 now you never will be so just swap it. No idea what you mean by the picture looking 'cheap' though lol

 

[Weevilone]

But I do think there is a 'cheapness' to the C6's picture that is not apparent on the E6, which I also looked at (and is out of my price range!). The C6 looks grainy and muted in comparison, it isn't just my eyes, and the ABL is obvious on any white image, which is just grey.

I have also got some HDMI problems, last night I got a crazy green and black light show when I tried to play a regular bluray, and then had to restart multiple times to get the signal to show up. This has happened multiple times now, so Curry's has agreed to a return. It has faulty HDMIs for sure.

It sounds like you are describing classic HDMI handshake or cabling issues. I seriously doubt the display is defective.

And I also think there is no difference between the C6 and E6 images. If you are correct by your retail judgement, then every calibrator that's posted about this on AVS and elsewhere is wrong.

Just go back to your Samsung sets if you like that.

 

[Lima]

Correct aside from the curve the C6 and E6 are identical. Panels, chip etc.

Any difference you saw was down to settings.

 

[Wiped89]

It sounds like you are describing classic HDMI handshake or cabling issues. I seriously doubt the display is defective.

And I also think there is no difference between the C6 and E6 images. If you are correct by your retail judgement, then every calibrator that's posted about this on AVS and elsewhere is wrong.

Just go back to your Samsung sets if you like that.

I wish I could define it better. Essentially, the image on the C6 has a bit of grain and a yellowish/greyish hue, neither of which I could see on the E6. I think iit was caused predominantly by being able to see the ABL kicking in. Of course, that was comparing retail displays which is never the best comparison anyway. I will try to get a shot tonight that shows it up.

I tried Tomb Raider and The Last Of Us this morning, and one thing that struck me was how I had to turn the brightness way up on the in-game menus to be able to see anything in the dark, which I'd previously cranked way down on my old TV. Two very different panels.

Thanks everyone. I'm hooking up my Samsung UE55HU8500 one more time tonight to get a good comparison again, and then I'll decid for sure. If I do go Samsung it'll be odd, though, as I've had an OLED phone for years, love it, and have always wanted an OLED tv. I just don't think I'm really feeling *this* particular model. Maybe in 2-3 years...

 

[ultrazilla]

So I am officially in the 4K society now!

I'm frugal with my money and always try to find the "best bang" for my buck and did quite a bit of research. Since HDR is a big thing with the 4K gaming, I had to make sure my 4K tv would feature HDR but also not break the bank and yet have good reviews.

I just picked this up today:

Hisense - 50" Class (49.5" Diag.) - LED - 2160p - Smart - 4K Ultra HD TV with High Dynamic Range

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/hisense...h-dynamic-range-black/4982500.p?skuId=4982500

Out of 809 reviews, it's averaging a 4.6 out of 5.0 star reviews.

So far, I'm very, very happy with the tv. Colors are vibrant, crisp, deep blacks, sharp images. Amazing details.

Now, a few questions for anyone out there that has this tv or experience with these issues:

I have Netflix with the Ultra HD streaming option. It's on my OG PS4(non Pro). Can the OG PS4 stream the 4K content through Netflix? Or do I need a PS4 Pro or Xbox One S to stream 4K content to my 4K tv? Or do I need to use the Netflix app that came on the TV to stream the 4K content?

I know HDR works because I put in Horizon Zero Dawn and was prompted with the "HDR is enabled for this game" option.

If I play a Blu-Ray through my OG PS4, will the TV up-convert the Blu-Ray to near 4K image quality?

Thanks!