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[III-V]

You're missing out on the world of 3D LUT tables. I suggest you do that instead of using the default software by X-Rite. Must more accurate.

Thanks for the suggestion, maybe one of these days I will.

I have done a little bit of reading on look up tables but I haven't committed to it yet, likely b/c of TV (relative) incompatibility. I never really have the motivation for the PC. And I don't use the PC on the TV either. Mostly mid-grade laptops and low grade monitors under lab light conditions.

I agree it doesn't do a terrific job on the automated mode, but it is stupid easy and enough to not kill my eyes at work.

I do want to try this for my home iMac at some point, as I will on occasion use my 43X800D as an external monitor.

EDIT: I will add the link you posted to my post for best PC calibrations.

 

[vpance]

The haloing and bloom on the X930E is disappointing to see. Doesn't look like something I'd recommend for movies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBD9ivZPvPc

It's exaggerated to some degree on purpose, but it's unavoidable due to how bright it gets. Main reason I opted to go with the KS9800 which has far less halo, blooming and no problems handling black bars. A German versus video showed this clearly.

As always it's mostly mitigated with some bias or dim lighting depending on how sensitive you are to this stuff.

 

[Aztechnology]

Really glad I went with the UN55KS8000 during that employee pricing. This is exactly why I wait to pick up an OLED. Will soften the blow a lot when I sell it either to pick up a really nice monitor or a TV hopefully with freesync, and even better if it has 120hz native which I've been waiting for for ages.

 

[Geneijin]

Thanks for the suggestion, maybe one of these days I will.

I have done a little bit of reading on look up tables but I haven't committed to it yet, likely b/c of TV (relative) incompatibility. I never really have the motivation for the PC. And I don't use the PC on the TV either. Mostly mid-grade laptops and low grade monitors under lab light conditions.

I agree it doesn't do a terrific job on the automated mode, but it is stupid easy and enough to not kill my eyes at work.

I do want to try this for my home iMac at some point, as I will on occasion use my 43X800D as an external monitor.

EDIT: I will add the link you posted to my post for best PC calibrations.

As long as a display device is connected to a PC, it's 3D LUT compatible. I think you'd be surprised how a calibrated TN monitor would look compared to any IPS monitor. Give DisplayCAL a shot when you get the chance.

And yeah, Light Illusion writes great guides. Their HDR one is great too.

http://www.lightillusion.com/uhdtv.html

 

[ss_lemonade]

Really glad I went with the UN55KS8000 during that employee pricing. This is exactly why I wait to pick up an OLED. Will soften the blow a lot when I sell it either to pick up a really nice monitor or a TV hopefully with freesync, and even better if it has 120hz native which I've been waiting for for ages.

Unless you're talking about something else, this panel will only accept 60hz input

 

[III-V]

Really glad I went with the UN55KS8000 during that employee pricing. This is exactly why I wait to pick up an OLED. Will soften the blow a lot when I sell it either to pick up a really nice monitor or a TV hopefully with freesync, and even better if it has 120hz native which I've been waiting for for ages.

That was such an amazing deal.

And yeah, Light Illusion writes great guides. Their HDR one is great too.

http://www.lightillusion.com/uhdtv.html

I agree. I have referenced their plot on this exact page for average picture level (APL) of SDR/HDR on so many occasions. It's key to understanding what an HDR picture should look like (hint: mostly like SDR), but most folks don't get it.

 

[Aztechnology]

Unless you're talking about something else, this panel will only accept 60hz input

No yea, the only 4k TV I know of that accepted a 120hz signal was the Vizio P series 2015 edition and some Sony sets, but only at 1080p. I'm referring to just selling this guy off when/if they roll out a new line that supports Freesync at LG.

 

[ss_lemonade]

No yea, the only 4k TV I know of that accepted a 120hz signal was the Vizio P series 2015 edition and some Sony sets, but only at 1080p. I'm referring to just selling this guy off when/if they roll out a new line that supports Freesync at LG.

Oh ok, read that wrong. Still a great TV, especially at EPP prices

 

[Art Vandilay]

Really glad I went with the UN55KS8000 during that employee pricing. This is exactly why I wait to pick up an OLED. Will soften the blow a lot when I sell it either to pick up a really nice monitor or a TV hopefully with freesync, and even better if it has 120hz native which I've been waiting for for ages.

Our experiences differ greatly. I suggest nobody ever buy from Samsung directly. Their customer service is garbage.

 

[holygeesus]

Do 2016+ OLED panels really suffer from less burn-in than the reference standard 2008 Pioneer Kuro plasma? 100,000 hours is a bold claim.

Gotta admit, it's been a few pages since this question popped up - no burn-in, unless you intend on running them 24/7 with the same image on them, and never turn them off. Otherwise, burn-in ain't happening.

 

[Yawnny]

Gotta admit, it's been a few pages since this question popped up - no burn-in, unless you intend on running them 24/7 with the same image on them, and never turn them off. Otherwise, burn-in ain't happening.

Last time I heard someone ask about burn in I didn't own a B6. Now I can chime in. No case of any image retention whatsoever after lots of gaming and movies. I can't imagine actual permanent burn in ever becomes an issue.

 

[wege12]

When I read that the Xbox scorpio will support HDMI 2.1, I was a little disappointed that I just bought B6 OLED several weeks ago. But that thought quickly left as I remembered what display I had before, how much I enjoy my b6 and that I got it for only $1,100.

Plus, if the 2018 models do happen to have HDMI 2.1, there will probably be something else they don't have. Such as perfect motion resolution, higher brightness, abl, input lag, shadow detail, high framerate or some other issue. For now, I'm happy with my heavily discounted B6.

 

[Terbinator]

Fuckkk.

B6/C6 is £1600 at Currys w/ 5 year guarantee. Bought it and cancelled 5 minutes later, just can't justify the money when my Sony W705 is fine :/

 

[Xiofire]

Fuckkk.

B6/C6 is £1600 at Currys w/ 5 year guarantee. Bought it and cancelled 5 minutes later, just can't justify the money when my Sony W705 is fine :/

Was this on a timed deal?
I'm only seeing £1699.

Edit: Nvm, saw on HUKD you have to use the code 100LSTV at checkout to get the extra £99 off.

 

[GeoNeo]

Plus, if the 2018 models do happen to have HDMI 2.1, there will probably be something else they don't have. Such as perfect motion resolution, higher brightness, abl, input lag, shadow detail, high framerate or some other issue. For now, I'm happy with my heavily discounted B6.

2018 will be the coming out party of HDMI 2.1. For gamers & sports fans 2018 models were always gonna be the ones to look forward to.

These LG OLED panels have a native refresh rate of 120Hz @ 4K only issue has been older HDMI spec did not have the bandwidth to support it but HDMI 2.1 does along with other enhancements like variable refresh rate.

I posted about this last year and how LG were even showing off high frame rate OLED prototypes at IFA in 2016.

http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1473185035

HDMI 2.1 is a huge step forward for the industry.

 

[Joe Spangle]

Fuckkk.

B6/C6 is £1600 at Currys w/ 5 year guarantee. Bought it and cancelled 5 minutes later, just can't justify the money when my Sony W705 is fine :/

Man, i have the worst timing with electronics. I bought a B6 two weeks ago for £2000.

Whoa - i just phoned up John Lewis and they are refunding me the difference. woohoo.

 

[RomanceDawn]

So much of this tv talk goes way over my head. I just need a bigger tv that won't cause my games to lag.

Not sure if it makes any difference but all I have is a Switch and a Wii U right now, any particular TV's anyone would recommend? I'd be comfortable with anything from 60-70in.

 

[Fox1304]

Is there any definitive answer on wether LG OLEDS need the "Dynamic Contrast" to be on in order to work correctly in HDR Mode ?
I've seen everything and its contrary online. Without it, image seems kind of "dulled" by a black overlay. It could be the settings, but in HDR mode you only have the brightness that could have some effect on this, and if you crank it up you lose the blacks.
In Dynamic contrast with high Black level, it looks great.

 

[Dave_6]

I personally turn dynamic contrast off along with trumotion and any other artificial processing. Seems to be just personal preference though.

 

[Kyoufu]

Is there any definitive answer on wether LG OLEDS need the "Dynamic Contrast" to be on in order to work correctly in HDR Mode ?
I've seen everything and its contrary online. Without it, image seems kind of "dulled" by a black overlay. It could be the settings, but in HDR mode you only have the brightness that could have some effect on this, and if you crank it up you lose the blacks.
In Dynamic contrast with high Black level, it looks great.

All the pro calibrators turn that setting off. I've never used it personally so I can't say definitively.

 

[Lima]

No. Just like the complaints about HDR being too dark in the KS8000 thread you have to look at what HDR actually is and how it should be viewed. Viewing environment being the big thing here. Since HDR modes max out the light output from the panel you can't increase it. Now even though both light output and contrast are maxed the average picture level is still only around 100-110 nits as it would be with a calibrated SDR source. This is intended for dark rooms. Maybe a little bias lightning but even that could be too much. Watching HDR with any daylight flooding your room and you see the complaints coming in.

I mean if you fancy it sure turn it on but it's not a needed or correct setting at all.

 

[tmdorsey]

Probably going to go with the X900E this year since my current set is garbage then go OLED in a couple years once HDMI 2.1 matures.

This is probably the route I'm going to go down.

The haloing and bloom on the X930E is disappointing to see. Doesn't look like something I'd recommend for movies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBD9ivZPvPc

This is very disappointing. I'm trying to decide if the 930E is worth the extra money over the 900E and right now it's not seeming like it is.

 

[stanley1993]

Hey GAF,
What is the best tv that is 4K and HDR for $1500(US dollars) or under? I prefer 55 inch(around that size). I've been looking at this thread:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1275976

From my readings, the KS8000 appears to be the best. Low input lag. Good picture.... However, the thread is a bit old now. Are there newer, better TVs now?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TFLSE?tag=viglink20241-20&th=1

 

[Kyoufu]

Hey GAF,
What is the best tv that is 4K and HDR for $1500(US dollars) or under? I prefer 55 inch(around that size). I've been looking at this thread:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1275976

From my readings, the KS8000 appears to be the best. Low input lag. Good picture.... However, the thread is a bit old now. Are there newer, better TVs now?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TFLSE?tag=viglink20241-20&th=1

Check prices on the X900E and the LG B6. The B6 is OLED and will knock your socks off, and the X900E is a solid affordable LCD from Sony. Both are good for gaming.

 

[Nezacant]

Hey GAF,
What is the best tv that is 4K and HDR for $1500(US dollars) or under? I prefer 55 inch(around that size). I've been looking at this thread:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1275976

From my readings, the KS8000 appears to be the best. Low input lag. Good picture.... However, the thread is a bit old now. Are there newer, better TVs now?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TFLSE?tag=viglink20241-20&th=1

rtings.com is your friend.

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-size/55-inch

The mid-range TV they mention is $1498 on amazon.

 

[vpance]

Is there any definitive answer on wether LG OLEDS need the "Dynamic Contrast" to be on in order to work correctly in HDR Mode ?
I've seen everything and its contrary online. Without it, image seems kind of "dulled" by a black overlay. It could be the settings, but in HDR mode you only have the brightness that could have some effect on this, and if you crank it up you lose the blacks.
In Dynamic contrast with high Black level, it looks great.

Use it if you like it IMO. It may not be accurate but not everyone wants to/can go dark room to appreciate the correct version.

This will change over time as the brightness range in TVs increase. In RL if you step outside at noon on a sunny day it'll be bright enough for you to want to put on some shades. Then think about some sunlight shining off a chrome bumper on top of that. Shrink it all down to fit a nit range of 0-600 and something has to be sacrificed to account for that light off the bumper. And that's without factoring in any ABL.

So while it might be more accurate without DC, it's still far from looking realistic. Go with what you like.

 

[Lima]

Use it if you like it IMO. It may not be accurate but not everyone wants to/can go dark room to appreciate the correct version.

This will change over time as the brightness range in TVs increase. In RL if you step outside at noon on a sunny day it'll be bright enough for you to want to put on some shades. Then think about some sunlight shining off a chrome bumper on top of that. Shrink it all down to fit a nit range of 0-600 and something has to be sacrificed to account for that light off the bumper. And that's without factoring in any ABL.

So while it might be more accurate without DC, it's still far from looking realistic. Go with what you like.

No this will not change as peak brightness continued to increase. The APL will stay the same as HDR is intended for dark room viewing.

 

[vpance]

This is very disappointing. I'm trying to decide if the 930E is worth the extra money over the 900E and right now it's not seeming like it is.

Don't let that discourage you from shopping the 930E vs the 900E. It's still better at dimming than the 900, and most people won't notice it to much in a lit room. Having some lights on makes a big difference in actually being able to see that blooming.

Still, I think 900 is the better value atm though. 930E will be worth a second look when it's discounted some more. It gets far brighter than the 900.

 

[stanley1993]

Check prices on the X900E and the LG B6. The B6 is OLED and will knock your socks off, and the X900E is a solid affordable LCD from Sony. Both are good for gaming.

Yep. After visiting the rtings site, those have been the two I've been focusing on. Thanks! A question though, is LCD the same as LED? In the video review of the X900E, the guy keeps saying LCD, but on the written review, it is called an LED tv? Are these terms interchangeable?

 

[Rajveer]

How much of a difference does upscaling of 1080p with 4:4:4 make over without it? I'm looking at either the B6 or the B/C7 and am trying to justify whether the extra money will be worth it for the lower input lag and the better upscaling for gaming.

 

[Z_Y]

Opinions requested. I have an 70" 1080p e-series Visio and am looking to upgrade. I wanted OLED but a 65" b6 is the only thing in my price range. The other option is to go LED and get a 75" P series Visio.

So it becomes a decision of picture quality vs size. The tv is in a big room. Most seats are over 16 foot from the screen. So I'm afraid to go down in size. I already have a hard time reading text on screen in some games (Mafia 3, looking directly at you). Looks like the OLED sizes go from 65 to 77 and 77 is $20k. I figure it's going to be 5+ years or longer before we see those size OLEDs being less than $3k. I don't know.

What would GAF do?

 

[tmdorsey]

Opinions requested. I have an70" 1080p e-series Visio and am looking to upgrade. I wanted OLED but a 65" b6 is the only thing in my price range. The other option is to go LED and get a 75" P series Visio.

So it becomes a decision of picture quality vs size. The tv is in a big room. Most seats are over 16 foot from the screen. So I'm afraid to go down in size. I already have a hard time reading text on screen in some games (Mafia 3, looking directly at you). Looks like the OLED sizes go from 65 to 77 and 77 is $20k. I figure it's going to be 5+ years or longer before we see those size OLEDs being less than $3k. I don't know.

What would GAF do?

I think the general consensus is to always go for size especially if you can't adjust seating for the smaller size screen. 16' is a big distance.

 

[Lima]

At that seating distance I would look into making adjustments to the room. 75" is still small as fuck from 16 foot away.

 

[vpance]

No this will not change as peak brightness continued to increase. The APL will stay the same as HDR is intended for dark room viewing.

Dark room HDR calibration will always be a thing, but I think it'll become more easily adjustable for users as peak nits increase and HDR becomes commonplace. Something more, less accurate than DC.. Wouldn't be surprised if we get an HDR slider eventually.

 

[DieH@rd]

Opinions requested. I have an 70" 1080p e-series Visio and am looking to upgrade. I wanted OLED but a 65" b6 is the only thing in my price range. The other option is to go LED and get a 75" P series Visio.

So it becomes a decision of picture quality vs size. The tv is in a big room. Most seats are over 16 foot from the screen. So I'm afraid to go down in size. I already have a hard time reading text on screen in some games (Mafia 3, looking directly at you). Looks like the OLED sizes go from 65 to 77 and 77 is $20k. I figure it's going to be 5+ years or longer before we see those size OLEDs being less than $3k. I don't know.

What would GAF do?

http://www.projectorcentral.com/home.cfm

 

[Z_Y]

I think the general consensus is to always go for size especially if you can't adjust seating for the smaller size screen. 16' is a big distance.

Pretty much what I'm thinking. Thanks!

At that seating distance I would look into making adjustments to the room. 75" is still small as fuck from 16 foot away.

The room is 21x17 and the tv is on the long wall....so about the only thing I could do is plop the recliner down in front of the tv in the middle of the room. Doubt the wife would approve though.

 

[Z_Y]

http://www.projectorcentral.com/home.cfm

It's a new construction so I custom ran everything before we drywalled for a tv in one certain place. In wall hdmi, speaker wire, sub cable, etc. I thought about projectors briefly but I was trying to hide as much as I could.

 

[spwolf]

Yep. After visiting the rtings site, those have been the two I've been focusing on. Thanks! A question though, is LCD the same as LED? In the video review of the X900E, the guy keeps saying LCD, but on the written review, it is called an LED tv? Are these terms interchangeable?

now they are... LED is lighting for LCD tv, default these days... used to not be so everyone advertised LED.

 

[vpance]

Opinions requested. I have an 70" 1080p e-series Visio and am looking to upgrade. I wanted OLED but a 65" b6 is the only thing in my price range. The other option is to go LED and get a 75" P series Visio.

So it becomes a decision of picture quality vs size. The tv is in a big room. Most seats are over 16 foot from the screen. So I'm afraid to go down in size. I already have a hard time reading text on screen in some games (Mafia 3, looking directly at you). Looks like the OLED sizes go from 65 to 77 and 77 is $20k. I figure it's going to be 5+ years or longer before we see those size OLEDs being less than $3k. I don't know.

What would GAF do?

Last year's X940D should be your main contender. Reviewed very well and is full array dimming.

 

[RedlineRonin]

I'd love to here some experiences from anyone who has a 4K set in this thread regarding hooking up your PC.

My main PC is an HTPC i built with a 1080 and 6700K. I game mostly on that device.

Do most 4K sets accept somewhat arbitrary resolutions? e.g. right now, often times the 1080 can run 3200x1800p (overwatch) or 1440p or 1570p (Nier Automata). I downsample internally from those resolutions to 1080p before it goes out to my Panasonic ST60.

I'm gonna pick up an OLED soon (if I don't sit on the fence more as i learn about HDMI 2.1...) and I want to know what I'm in for. Will i be able to send the above mentioned resolutions to these sets, and they will just upscale to 4K?

Thanks for any insights!

 

[Wiped89]

After a few days with my replacement LG 55" C6, I can only say one thing: WOW.

This TV is the best TV I have ever seen, hands down. It's far, far superior to the Samsung KS8000, far superior. It's a shame my original C6 was faulty, because all of my initial impressions were based on that duff one. This one is SO good.

I spent a little time with the Samsung KS8000 65" before sending it back, and the OLED beats it no contest. All of those arguments about brightness are futile, too, the OLED is very bright with the right settings, but unlike the Samsung it isn't washed out with over-whiteness. And the colours! Films I've seen before are transformed. Even lower-res games like Rise of the Tomb Raider on Xbox One are a joy to play, because the way the colours pop, the way the shadows have such a beautiful inky grading, and the way lighting and fire glows in the midst of the darkness is unparalleled.

My only complaint is I wish I'd bought the 65", but I couldn't stretch that far. In a couple of years...

 

[stanley1993]

I'm having a bit of a problem deciding on which television to buy. According to this video in the 2:56 mark(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3KtzKPx70&t=182s), the B6 cannot maintain its brightness above 500 nits for too long.

...according to this post(http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1276662), for a tv to be Ultra HD Premium, it has to meet these requirements.
At least 3,840 x 2,160 (4K)
10-bit Colour
At least 90% of DCI P3
More than 1000 nits (peak brightness) and less than 0.05 nits black level or,
More than 540 nits (peak brightness) and less than 0.0005 nits black level (since you don't need high brightness if your blacks are so good, like an OLED)

How do I know the X900E or B6 meet these requirements?
Also, is the B6 and C6 the same TV? One is curved, the other not.

 

[Art Vandilay]

I'm having a bit of a problem deciding on which television to buy. According to this video in the 2:56 mark(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3KtzKPx70&t=182s), the B6 cannot maintain its brightness above 500 nits for too long.

...according to this post(http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1276662), for a tv to be Ultra HD Premium, it has to meet these requirements.
At least 3,840 x 2,160 (4K)
10-bit Colour
At least 90% of DCI P3
More than 1000 nits (peak brightness) and less than 0.05 nits black level or,
More than 540 nits (peak brightness) and less than 0.0005 nits black level (since you don't need high brightness if your blacks are so good, like an OLED)

How do I know the X900E or B6 meet these requirements?
Also, is the B6 and C6 the same TV? One is curved, the other not.

B6 also has a different chipset than all the others. And C6 has 3D.

 

[Beer Monkey]

The brightness of LED backlit LCD sets over OLED is largely useless if you have proper light control in your room IMO. Better to have proper black levels in your set and light control.

 

[Wiped89]

Is there any definitive answer on wether LG OLEDS need the "Dynamic Contrast" to be on in order to work correctly in HDR Mode ?
I've seen everything and its contrary online. Without it, image seems kind of "dulled" by a black overlay. It could be the settings, but in HDR mode you only have the brightness that could have some effect on this, and if you crank it up you lose the blacks.
In Dynamic contrast with high Black level, it looks great.

I feel like you've answered your own question really but yes, I think so. I use Dynamic Contrast and Dynamic Colour in HDR Game mode and it looks brilliant.

 

[Wildschwein]

I've been using a 40" Sony 600b that I bought a bit over a year ago when I was on a real tight budget and in need of a television.

Today I put my order in for a 55" LG B6. I am so nervous about every step of this delivery (never dealt with freight before) but I'm real, real excited. Didn't get the best price I've seen around here, but I think I did alright at $1680 after taxes.

The 600b is gonna keep a special place in my heart for the incredible mileage for sub $400.

 

[tokkun]

The brightness of LED backlit LCD sets over OLED is largely useless if you have proper light control in your room IMO. Better to have proper black levels in your set and light control.

"Proper light control" is easier said than done. I have wall-to-wall bay windows on one side of my living room, and I'm not going to put in blackout curtains just for TV watching. And if you live with someone, there is a good chance they my want to share that room to read or do some other activity that requires light.

I know a handful of people who have a TV room in their basement where they can create dark room conditions at any time of day, but most are in a similar situation where they have windows and/or need to be considerate of others in the same house.

 

[dallow_bg]

After a few days with my replacement LG 55" C6, I can only say one thing: WOW.

This TV is the best TV I have ever seen, hands down. It's far, far superior to the Samsung KS8000, far superior. It's a shame my original C6 was faulty, because all of my initial impressions were based on that duff one. This one is SO good.

I spent a little time with the Samsung KS8000 65" before sending it back, and the OLED beats it no contest. All of those arguments about brightness are futile, too, the OLED is very bright with the right settings, but unlike the Samsung it isn't washed out with over-whiteness. And the colours! Films I've seen before are transformed. Even lower-res games like Rise of the Tomb Raider on Xbox One are a joy to play, because the way the colours pop, the way the shadows have such a beautiful inky grading, and the way lighting and fire glows in the midst of the darkness is unparalleled.

My only complaint is I wish I'd bought the 65", but I couldn't stretch that far. In a couple of years...

Ha, it's been a rollercoaster with you. Well, I'm glad you're happy and convinced now. heh.

So your original C6 was faulty all along? I must have missed where you posted about that as I thought you had just returned it.

 

[stanley1993]

"Proper light control" is easier said than done. I have wall-to-wall bay windows on one side of my living room, and I'm not going to put in blackout curtains just for TV watching. And if you live with someone, there is a good chance they my want to share that room to read or do some other activity that requires light.

I know a handful of people who have a TV room in their basement where they can create dark room conditions at any time of day, but most are in a similar situation where they have windows and/or need to be considerate of others in the same house.

Ok, I am leaning towards the C6 but have a few more questions. What is proper light control? Just making the room darker? It doesn't need additional hardware, right? This tv will be in the living room which is filled with windows. During the day, the room is very bright. Does this mean an OLED is not the right tv for me? Also, Flat vs. Curve...which one? I can't decide. Never had a curve panel before.
Here is the ranking of TVs I made up after some reading(55in 1500-2000$):
1. LG C6
2. LG B6
3. Samsung KS8000
4. Sony X900E

 

[Wiped89]

Ha, it's been a rollercoaster with you. Well, I'm glad you're happy and convinced now. heh.

So your original C6 was faulty all along? I must have missed where you posted about that as I thought you had just returned it.

Thanks! It was indeed faulty, the HDMI ports were dodgy; one stopped working completely, and the other two would sometimes refuse to get a signal. It seems it was a screwy motherboard, and my theory is that it also screwed up the picture processing internally, because the picture on this one is vastly superior. Another clue was that the settings on the faulty one would often jump back to defaults or fail to save changes properly, which was hard to spot at first because I was changing the settings so much trying to get the picture right.