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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

Kyoufu

Member
What would be the best way to test for it? Just display some different solid colors? I guess white should do it, that should reveal both dead and stuck ones.

I've never, ever had any luck with those "pixel fixers". I've had stuck pixels on phones, my old DS, etc, and nothing has ever helped. In those cases I've learned to accept it after a while, but this X930E was quite a bit more expensive than any of those, so I'd be very disappointed to get an imperfect panel.

As long as you replace it within the return period then you'll be fine.

I think you'll get a good panel though. :)
 

tokkun

Member
Just get extended warranty!

People requesting replacements on AVSForum were told that the warranty does not cover burn-in.

It's a weird situation, because LG still claims that burn-in is impossible, but when it occurs they want to claim that it is not a defect and is the user's fault. Sony on the other hand straight up tells you that burn-in can happen under any conditions and you are on your own if it does.
 
What would be the best way to test for it? Just display some different solid colors? I guess white should do it, that should reveal both dead and stuck ones.

I've never, ever had any luck with those "pixel fixers". I've had stuck pixels on phones, my old DS, etc, and nothing has ever helped. In those cases I've learned to accept it after a while, but this X930E was quite a bit more expensive than any of those, so I'd be very disappointed to get an imperfect panel.

Same, I think it's a load of bullshit quite honestly, I've had lots of screens with stuck pixels over the years (one panel had 7!) And running flashing screens n all that rubbish has never fixed one single pixel.
 
People requesting replacements on AVSForum were told that the warranty does not cover burn-in.

It's a weird situation, because LG still claims that burn-in is impossible, but when it occurs they want to claim that it is not a defect and is the user's fault. Sony on the other hand straight up tells you that burn-in can happen under any conditions and you are on your own if it does.
Hm, so is that US warranty or EU customer service as well?

There's often big differences between countries re: customer service on a particular issue.

Kyoufu, did you contact LG yet to check whether they'll replace your E6 with burn-in?
 

Kyoufu

Member
People requesting replacements on AVSForum were told that the warranty does not cover burn-in.

It's a weird situation, because LG still claims that burn-in is impossible, but when it occurs they want to claim that it is not a defect and is the user's fault. Sony on the other hand straight up tells you that burn-in can happen under any conditions and you are on your own if it does.

LG's site says burn-in is possible if you push the TV hard enough. I don't even recall pushing a Netflix logo on my panel hard at all for it to have a lasting effect... :/

Kyoufu, did you contact LG yet to check whether they'll replace your E6 with burn-in?

I haven't contacted LG. My year of warranty with LG is over I think. Not that it matters, they don't cover burn-in.
 
ok this is a stupid question and I feel that I already know the answer, but i'm going to ask anyway.

I see online everywhere that "oh your hdmi cables don't matter and if they work you got everything you need and dont get suckered into buying new shit when your cables are already going to be good enough" but that doesn't apply for gaming consoles and all that, right?

Like, for my pro, and one s, and pc, etc I should get 18gbps high speed cables, yes?
 
If you plan to output at 4K with HDR enabled then yes, it should be an 18 GBPS high speed HDMI cable. The Pro and XB1S already come with the correct cables
 

MazeHaze

Banned
Welp, the OLED burn in stuff scared me off of it. I'll be replacing my stolen 55 inch KS8000 with a new KS8000. Same price on Amazon as I paid for it exactly 1 year ago, but I have "replace as new insurance" so I might as well. It was tempting to upgrade to the OLED, but using it as my main PC monitor seems risky for that much money. Just praying to the TV gods that I end up with a good panel now on the KS8000, last one was almost flawless, so hopefully this one will be the same.

In the end it works out because I can just stick with my original plan of upgrading to a 65 inch in a couple of years, hopefully OLED will have it's shit sorted out by then.
 
How long do I need to run this for?

Do the 10 hours and check to see if it's had an effect, if it's done nothing it's probably permanent, but if it's looking like its working then run it again.

I left static on my Hitachi plasma for 24 hours, and it was brilliant after that.
 
I mean somehow Netflix was left on for a long period of time. There's no other explanation. Which is weird too since the tv has a built in screensaver after like 1-2 minutes on the internal apps.
 

Kyoufu

Member
I mean somehow Netflix was left on for a long period of time. There's no other explanation. Which is weird too since the tv has a built in screensaver after like 1-2 minutes on the internal apps.

Yeah, it's impossible to keep the Netflix logo on screen for a long time unless you're actively using the remote. I don't understand how it happened.
 

tokkun

Member
I mean somehow Netflix was left on for a long period of time. There's no other explanation. Which is weird too since the tv has a built in screensaver after like 1-2 minutes on the internal apps.

Isn't it also possible that the cumulative effect of many short appearances at the same position on screen added up after opening Netflix many times? I mean if you don't have many other pieces of content stressing those red subpixels.
 

RoadHazard

Gold Member
Welp, the OLED burn in stuff scared me off of it. I'll be replacing my stolen 55 inch KS8000 with a new KS8000. Same price on Amazon as I paid for it exactly 1 year ago, but I have "replace as new insurance" so I might as well. It was tempting to upgrade to the OLED, but using it as my main PC monitor seems risky for that much money. Just praying to the TV gods that I end up with a good panel now on the KS8000, last one was almost flawless, so hopefully this one will be the same.

In the end it works out because I can just stick with my original plan of upgrading to a 65 inch in a couple of years, hopefully OLED will have it's shit sorted out by then.

Why not upgrade to the X900E or something? Is the KS8000 significantly cheaper?
 

ViciousDS

Banned
I just got my LG C7

Why does game mode seem so much darker overall than a standard mode?

I'm guessing the best way to actually go is label as PC and calibrate that way. Rtings is reporting PC mode no matter what video options gives 21ms response



Also reading kyofuus comments

Did last years model not have pixel reset/calibration?
 

MrFlooD

Member
I just got my LG C7

Why does game mode seem so much darker overall than a standard mode?

I'm guessing the best way to actually go is label as PC and calibrate that way. Rtings is reporting PC mode no matter what video options gives 21ms response



Also reading kyofuus comments

Did last years model not have pixel reset/calibration?

Just a quick fyi, HDR isnt working properly in "PC Mode". Should be fixed in a future firmware update.
 
I have a related question: What are you using as a remotes? I've got an LG C7 and would like to have 1 single remote that works with both the tv and my denon receiver. I've got ARC working for volume, but in order to switch inputs on the receiver I still need to dig out my denon remote and use it. I'd like 1 remote that controls everything.

AND I'd like one that still works with the wii-like menu mouse motion controls.

Is there anything out there that does all this?
 
Need a little wisdom from TV GAF: I can get a used(a few month old)Sony 55A1E for $1.5k or maybe even a bit lower. It will come with 2 year GS protection plan that will be transfered to me. Worth it or not?
A little info of my situation: I recently move into a new apartment and already gave away the old 1080p TV; I do not have cable channels; I watch some movies; play video games almost everyday. Budget was ~1k so this is a quite a bit more; I was eyeing for a 55C6P(or B6P). Other TV suggestions welcome! Note that my apartment is small and 55" is best size to fit in. Building also has a residential lodge area with two big TVs to play with if I could move my lazy ass to bring console downstairs.
 

jstevenson

Sailor Stevenson
I have a related question: What are you using as a remotes? I've got an LG C7 and would like to have 1 single remote that works with both the tv and my denon receiver. I've got ARC working for volume, but in order to switch inputs on the receiver I still need to dig out my denon remote and use it. I'd like 1 remote that controls everything.

AND I'd like one that still works with the wii-like menu mouse motion controls.

Is there anything out there that does all this?

probably nothing that will do the wii / motion control stuff.

harmony is your best bet for universal tho
 
When the issue is that your image is too dark, you need to set the brightness higher so that you're not crushing blacks and shadow details. It doesn't have anything to do with Deep Colour being on or off.

Also check that your PS4 and TV match RGB/Black Level settings. Limited + Low or Full + High. I use the latter.

After uncharted updated (to include HDR patch) it all looks great, with no adjustments needed.

But now I am thinking .. if a game doesn't have an HDR patch do I have to manually disable deep Color on the lg ?
Because it was horrible playing older uc4 on the pro with deep color ensbled on the hdmi port on the lg
But most older games will not be patched for HDR ?
 

RoadHazard

Gold Member
I have a related question: What are you using as a remotes? I've got an LG C7 and would like to have 1 single remote that works with both the tv and my denon receiver. I've got ARC working for volume, but in order to switch inputs on the receiver I still need to dig out my denon remote and use it. I'd like 1 remote that controls everything.

AND I'd like one that still works with the wii-like menu mouse motion controls.

Is there anything out there that does all this?

If all components do ARC the receiver should automatically switch inputs, no? But I guess things are never that simple. :)
 

Schlomo

Member
If all components do ARC the receiver should automatically switch inputs, no? But I guess things are never that simple. :)

Indeed they aren't. I had to turn off HDMI control on my PS4 because it would always turn on when I switched on my OLED B7. It's ridiculous how badly these things are communicating. I think the Xbox lets you disable auto-on while still working the other way around.
 

aravuus

Member
Is LG B7 considerably better than the B6? Gigantti (a nordic electronics retailer) currently has the 55 inch B6 for 1899 euros and will apparently start selling the B7 soon for 1999 euros.

Usually I'd order the B7 right away, but the B6 has been on sale for most of the summer (going for 1500 euros) and I expect it'll be going on sale again soon which is when I'd get it. Would paying 500 euros more for the B7 be dumb? I could afford it, but I'm not exactly swimming in cash.
 

Kudo

Member
Is LG B7 considerably better than the B6? Gigantti (a nordic electronics retailer) currently has the 55 inch B6 for 1899 euros and will apparently start selling the B7 soon for 1999 euros.

Usually I'd order the B7 right away, but the B6 has been on sale for most of the summer (going for 1500 euros) and I expect it'll be going on sale again soon which is when I'd get it. Would paying 500 euros more for the B7 be dumb? I could afford it, but I'm not exactly swimming in cash.

Slightly better image quality, less image retention, 1080p120hz option for PC, WebOS 3.5.. From the top of my head, here's more:
https://youtu.be/F9OvPfPd8s0?&t=680

I went for B7 myself, paying so much for TV might as well go for the best and newest.
 
Is LG B7 considerably better than the B6? Gigantti (a nordic electronics retailer) currently has the 55 inch B6 for 1899 euros and will apparently start selling the B7 soon for 1999 euros.

Usually I'd order the B7 right away, but the B6 has been on sale for most of the summer (going for 1500 euros) and I expect it'll be going on sale again soon which is when I'd get it. Would paying 500 euros more for the B7 be dumb? I could afford it, but I'm not exactly swimming in cash.

Welllllll...depends.

I sold my E6 and got this year's B7/C7 for significantly more than 500 USD/Euro because 34 ms of input lag on the E6 was too much for me. I use my tv with a gaming pc, and the mouse never felt good, and vsync on had far too much lag to be comfortably playable. 34 ms vs 21 ms is a no brainer. I'm incredibly glad I swapped, even if it was a significant cost.

B6 vs B7 is a different story. I've never used a B6, but apparently they reduced the input lag via an update. So, you have to ask yourself: how sensitive are you to input lag, what sort of games will you be playing, and with what console/pc? Because - and others please correct me if I'm wrong - but reduced input lag is basically all you'd be paying extra for. Rtings, in their reviews, basically suggest still getting a B6 because the image is virtually identical between the two sets.

Oh, and this year's B7 does 120 hz, which is something I wanted as well. I don't always use it, since it limits the image to 1080p, but sometimes for shooters is nice having an incredibly smooth experience. But this is something you'd only benefit from if you're using a PC.

Either way, hold onto your butt. OLEDs are amazing.
 

jourdy

Member
Hi everyone, need a bit of help in choosing a new TV.

I currently have a Bravia 65X8500D but I need another one for the bedroom.
As it stands, I am thinking of replacing it with the ff in mind:

Option 1: 65x9300E
Option 2: 75x9000E
Option 3: 65" LG C7

and then moving the x8500d to the bedroom.

I am wondering if the ~$1000 increased price in the 75X9000E is worth it over the 65x9300E knowing that the 9300 is marketed to have better picture quality. The TV will mostly be used for Netflix and gaming.

Which brings me to Option 3 - upon reading the reviews on the first page of this thread, I saw that the LG C7 is better for gaming.


Note - My sofa is about 10 feet away from the television. My current 65x8500D is decently sized although I sometimes feel that a 75 would provide a more immersive experience. I love the 65x8500 although the input delay when pressing the remote is turning me off. (For example, pressing the "back" button when watching Netflix sometimes takes 3s before it goes back to the previous page - as if it is 'lagging')
 

aravuus

Member
Either way, hold onto your butt. OLEDs are amazing.

Hahah yeah, the jump from an old full HD LCD TV is going to be insane.

Anyway, thanks for the replies. I don't think I can justify paying 500 euros more for the B7 right now. I will probably connect the TV to my PC for the occasional Rocket League session, but I highly doubt I'll be playing m+kb games on it, so the ever so slight increase in input lag won't bother me.

So I'm gonna stick to the original plan of buying the B6 the next time it's on sale for now.

If for some reason the B6 just won't go on sale again in the coming weeks or however long I can hold out, I'll just get the B7. I'd be paying almost two grand for the TV anyway, a hundred euros is practically nothing at that point.
 

sobaka770

Banned
I can guarantee that it would be no different now than it was last year, an HDR10 LCD that can achieve 1000nits + and displaying 1000nit content does not need DV at all, it's all in the article, and like it says it's excellent for displays that have a lower peak brightness. I was saying It's a nice advantage for LCD's given how much 1000nit content is out there.

That's the other thing, all LCD's that can hit 1000nits + are high end anyway, and all have superb tone mapping.

That doesn't make sense to me. HDR10 has other issues apart from mastering at 1000 nits. Especially without dynamic metadata.

DV wins at low nits right now because it adapts to the screen and is always "perfect", or as good as it can get on the panel. HDR 10 will only be perfect if the TV is exactly the same as the mastering target. Even now some HDR10 Blu Rays look awful if you don't manually go change the TV brightness (Star Trek). It's just unacceptable. The biggest issue, however is that without the dynamic metadata you will always have issues with various scenes in the movies looking worse than others because you will lose the range depending on initial fixed target.

HDR10+ will fix the metadata but it needs a new HDMI 2.1 spec so the adoption rate will be probably even lower than DV considering no TV currently has it and DV can now be software enabled and still more future-proof with 12 bit colour. Moreover I'm still more confident that the workflow for DV will be more robust in the coming years, while HDR10 seems to be all over the place.
 

Data Ghost

Member
Hi Guys,

Im a very happy owner of a B6 and have managed to tune 'Game' mode to my liking, however Im struggling with 'HDR Game'.

Basically I have set HDR Game to the recommended settings (Via Digital Foundry), however when I switch back and forth between 'HDR Game' and 'HDR Bright' (with a game like HZD on the screen) the difference is massive. HDR Game looks muddy by comparison.

Within HDR Bright I have all the artificial settings turned off and really don't notice any lag at all. Anyone else NOT using the HDR Game mode, or have found a way to get the picture to look acceptable?
 
Hi Guys,

Im a very happy owner of a B6 and have managed to tune 'Game' mode to my liking, however Im struggling with 'HDR Game'.

Basically I have set HDR Game to the recommended settings (Via Digital Foundry), however when I switch back and forth between 'HDR Game' and 'HDR Bright' (with a game like HZD on the screen) the difference is massive. HDR Game looks muddy by comparison.

Within HDR Bright I have all the artificial settings turned off and really don't notice any lag at all. Anyone else NOT using the HDR Game mode, or have found a way to get the picture to look acceptable?

No lag in Bright compared to Game mode HDR? Because that would be fantastic news. I don't have a HDR device for my B6 until November with the One X, but i did have my friends over two weeks ago and we tried the One S and Pro with some games and what we mostly noticed was how ridiculously dim/dark HDR game mode was. It was as if the Xbox One dimmer had been enabled, that dim. HDR Bright and Vivid looked fine. But we didn't test input lag.

So would you say games like Gears 4, CoD, BF etc are playable fine with HDR Bright? I'm still hoping LG simply fixes HDR Game mode though. As for muddy, we didn't really notice it looking muddy, but definitely way way too dim/dark.

As for retention that could result into burn-in....

Last weekend, monday and tuesday i've been playing quite a bit of Diablo 3 during the free weekend, plenty of static HUD elements and after several hours i didn't even see any retention of it. Great news of course. So it really is only happening when very bright things are being displayed. As said before, leaving the Xbox menu, Youtube. Crunchyroll app on for only a few seconds i'll be seeing the retention very soon. I guess the pictures in those apps are overly bright then or something?
 

RoadHazard

Gold Member
Hi everyone, need a bit of help in choosing a new TV.

I currently have a Bravia 65X8500D but I need another one for the bedroom.
As it stands, I am thinking of replacing it with the ff in mind:

Option 1: 65x9300E
Option 2: 75x9000E
Option 3: 65" LG C7

and then moving the x8500d to the bedroom.

I am wondering if the ~$1000 increased price in the 75X9000E is worth it over the 65x9300E knowing that the 9300 is marketed to have better picture quality. The TV will mostly be used for Netflix and gaming.

Which brings me to Option 3 - upon reading the reviews on the first page of this thread, I saw that the LG C7 is better for gaming.


Note - My sofa is about 10 feet away from the television. My current 65x8500D is decently sized although I sometimes feel that a 75 would provide a more immersive experience. I love the 65x8500 although the input delay when pressing the remote is turning me off. (For example, pressing the "back" button when watching Netflix sometimes takes 3s before it goes back to the previous page - as if it is 'lagging')

The X9305E would give you Dolby Vision, which Netflix now has some content that supports, and it seems like that will grow. So that's one thing, but probably not a deciding factor.
 

Data Ghost

Member
No lag in Bright compared to Game mode HDR? Because that would be fantastic news. I don't have a HDR device for my B6 until November with the One X, but i did have my friends over two weeks ago and we tried the One S and Pro with some games and what we mostly noticed was how ridiculously dim/dark HDR game mode was. It was as if the Xbox One dimmer had been enabled, that dim. HDR Bright and Vivid looked fine. But we didn't test input lag.

So would you say games like Gears 4, CoD, BF etc are playable fine with HDR Bright? I'm still hoping LG simply fixes HDR Game mode though. As for muddy, we didn't really notice it looking muddy, but definitely way way too dim/dark.

As for retention that could result into burn-in....

Last weekend, monday and tuesday i've been playing quite a bit of Diablo 3 during the free weekend, plenty of static HUD elements and after several hours i didn't even see any retention of it. Great news of course. So it really is only happening when very bright things are being displayed. As said before, leaving the Xbox menu, Youtube. Crunchyroll app on for only a few seconds i'll be seeing the retention very soon. I guess the pictures in those apps are overly bright then or something?

Before someone jumps on my comment, I personally don't notice any lag in HDR Bright, however I am sure there are dramatic individuals who will tell you its basically unplayable. Saying that, even if there is some additional lag, does that really matter in slower paced story driven games?

As for muddy, yeah I guess dim is a better description, HZD doesn't pop at all in HDR Game as far as I could see. Unless I can tune the settings further.

Overall though, such a great TV for the price.
 

aravuus

Member
Last weekend, monday and tuesday i've been playing quite a bit of Diablo 3 during the free weekend, plenty of static HUD elements and after several hours i didn't even see any retention of it. Great news of course. So it really is only happening when very bright things are being displayed. As said before, leaving the Xbox menu, Youtube. Crunchyroll app on for only a few seconds i'll be seeing the retention very soon. I guess the pictures in those apps are overly bright then or something?

That's good to hear. How high do you keep the OLED Light setting when you're playing (non-HDR) games (edit: or in general, not just gaming, I guess)? Full 100 or at the recommended 50 or lower to minimize the risk of burn-in?

I expect the regular HDR settings to have way too much input lag for me, so hopefully the game HDR setting isn't that dim in a dark room. Otherwise I guess I'll stick to movies when it comes to HDR. The list of HDR-supported PS4 games is way smaller than I expected, anyway.
 
Before someone jumps on my comment, I personally don't notice any lag in HDR Bright, however I am sure there are dramatic individuals who will tell you its basically unplayable. Saying that, even if there is some additional lag, does that really matter in slower paced story driven games?

As for muddy, yeah I guess dim is a better description, HZD doesn't pop at all in HDR Game as far as I could see. Unless I can tune the settings further.

Overall though, such a great TV for the price.

For slower paced games it doesn't matter. Probably even games like Witcher 3 and many other games but games like upcoming Battlefront 2 that most definitely will have HDR you cannot be coping with terrible input lag. Maybe you could try out a FPS or a game like Gears and move the camera left/right and see how the response is? I definitely notice the difference when i use game mode and then switch to something like expert 1.

And yeah man, the whole vibrant picture that HDR should bring to Horizon is completely gone. It would be best if LG simply fixes it. Apparently LG is looking into fixing HDR Game mode but only E6, C6 and such are mentioned. Not B6...come the fuck on LG!

That's good to hear. How high do you keep the OLED Light setting when you're playing (non-HDR) games (edit: or in general, not just gaming, I guess)? Full 100 or at the recommended 50 or lower to minimize the risk of burn-in?

I expect the regular HDR settings to have way too much input lag for me, so hopefully the game HDR setting isn't that dim in a dark room. Otherwise I guess I'll stick to movies when it comes to HDR. The list of HDR-supported PS4 games is way smaller than I expected, anyway.

I have it at max man. I know it's not extremely wise to do that in the early hours of the TV, although i think i am way past that now. I think it's two months now that i have the 65B6, but i got both OLED Light and Contrast at max. I love my games and movies/shows looking as bright as they can. :)

HDR supported games might still be a small list now but it wouldn't surprise me if more and more upcoming games will all support it and if that's the case LG really needs to get on it. Two weeks ago we tried out Horizon ZD, Gears 4 and so on. The difference with Gears 4 was rather shocking, so goddamn dark/dim with HDR Game, not even funny.
 

aravuus

Member
I have it at max man. I know it's not extremely wise to do that in the early hours of the TV, although i think i am way past that now. I think it's two months now that i have the 65B6, but i got both OLED Light and Contrast at max. I love my games and movies/shows looking as bright as they can. :)

I definitely know what you mean lol, and I kinda expect I'll be keeping it pretty high too. Pretty sure my current TV and main PC monitor are also at almost maximum brightness, so it's something I've gotten used to.

If burn-in happens, I guess it happens. I don't want to buy a new TV in a year or two or even three, but if it comes to that, I will.

Does the LG B7 have a problem with dim/dark HDR Game Mode or is it exclusive to the 6 series?

e: and does no one seriously have a good video showcasing the dimness of the game mode anywhere? I know, SDR videos of HDR content and so on, but it'd at least give me a bit of an idea what to expect. Something like a comparison between SDR at 50-100 OLED Light, HDR Standard and HDR Game Mode would be good. Doubt I'll get to see for myself in the store.
 

Data Ghost

Member
I definitely know what you mean lol, and I kinda expect I'll be keeping it pretty high too. Pretty sure my current TV and main PC monitor are also at almost maximum brightness, so it's something I've gotten used to.

If burn-in happens, I guess it happens. I don't want to buy a new TV in a year or two or even three, but if it comes to that, I will.

Does the LG B7 have a problem with dim/dark HDR Game Mode or is it exclusive to the 6 series?

e: and does no one seriously have a good video showcasing the dimness of the game mode anywhere? I know, SDR videos of HDR content and so on, but it'd at least give me a bit of an idea what to expect. Something like a comparison between SDR at 50-100 OLED Light, HDR Standard and HDR Game Mode would be good. Doubt I'll get to see for myself in the store.

I also have those settings at max, after all I don't want to compromise the best picture I can get because of burn in worry. Saying that Ive seen image retention plenty since owning the tv, particularly with the Deezer app from the LG store, but it always fades away.

Without giving you a video example the best way I can describe the difference between HDR Bright and HDR Game is: Imagine you are watching a 1080p blue ray, and then you download the same film from a torrent site that claims to be in 1080p, and even though the picture is good it has more of a subdued look and all of the pop and life is not there. Thats HDR Game as far as I am concerned lol.
 

Kyoufu

Member
After uncharted updated (to include HDR patch) it all looks great, with no adjustments needed.

But now I am thinking .. if a game doesn't have an HDR patch do I have to manually disable deep Color on the lg ?
Because it was horrible playing older uc4 on the pro with deep color ensbled on the hdmi port on the lg
But most older games will not be patched for HDR ?

You don't need to touch Deep Colour. It only enables HDR when a HDR signal is detected. It has no effect on SDR content.
 
You don't need to touch Deep Colour. It only enables HDR when a HDR signal is detected. It has no effect on SDR content.

if I turn off hdmi ultra hd deep color (off by default) the PS4 reverts to yuv 420 "only 2k supported" and a message says "your rv might support a higher quality color format and 4K hdr if you change its settings""

Then if I turn it on the video info changes to 2k/4k and no warning, color RGB. (That's good right)

But then non hdr uncharted is too dark in dark areas.. (that's bad) .. but patched uncharted is great. (That's good).

But now I worry about unpatched games. Will they be screwed up as uncharted non-patched, was?
 
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