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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Just ordered the SeaSonic X650 for my PSU. Haven't ordered anything else, since I'm not totally sure how much my textbooks are going to cost this semester.
Well you can appreciate the bag the PSU comes at least!
Huh, everywhere else i always read that i have to buy the cpu boxed and not tray, because of longer warranty and being sure that it wasn't already used and then sent back. Is the performance difference that noticeable for the games i listed between the i3 i picked and an i5 4xxx?
If you go with the i3 and the r9 you listed you'll have good game performance, but off top of my head you'll get better feeling performance (high min frames / lower frame times) with the i5. Pretty sure Star Citizen will require a quad if it ever releases some kind of actual game :p
 

Livanh

Member
Ok gaf i have fallen in love with the lg 34um95.
My question is, is it worth with a single gtx 970? I dont really care for constant 60fps but i definitfly like to play with the settings as high as possible.
How far will my 970 get me with this monitor?
Should i wait until i can afford another 970?

Would it make more sense to get a 34um65 instead? How much screen real estate would i get over my current 24" 1080p screen? Is it even worth to go that large without the upped resolution?

pls halp, i dont know if that screen makes any sense for me or my want is overtaking me :D
 

reKon

Banned
1. Backblaze's hard drive reliability report painted HGST/Hitachi in good colors.

Fake edit: yeah, you've seen that and others have already brought it up.

2. There's no telling what future graphics cards may require in terms of wattage and amperage. The GTX 970 will probably run on that 450 watt power supply, but it will be cutting quite close to the limit. Generally for power supplies, you want to leave a bit of breathing room not just because of future upgrades, but also because power supplies are more efficient, run cooler, and last longer when they aren't operating right at their maximum capacity.

Unfortunately, when you want to go with a such a small and specific form factor like the Silverstone RVZ01/ML07, you need small power supplies. No one else really makes any comparable power supplies, so they can get away with charging $130 for a 600 watt power supply. At least it's a quality power supply, reviews show that much.

4. No, the Corsair water cooling kit is completely self-contained and is pre-assembled. You do not need to put anything together besides the metal mounting bracket, and there are instructions for that. All you need to do is put the pump on top of the CPU and mount the radiator with a fan to the ML07 side panel fan mount. I won't lie, it could be a tight fit, but others have done it and it is a recommended part in the Overclock.net Silverstone small case owner's thread. We did have a guy in the old PC build thread who was unhappy with the GeminII M4's cooling performance, and IIRC he had either the RVZ01 or the ML07B.

Actually, I also have another recommendation to go with the water cooler. Instead of using the included fan, you may want to buy a slim cooling fan for the radiator, like this Silverstone slim 120mm fan ($14) because the spacing is cramped.

5. There's very few PC cases that pull off the game console size and look and have the performance to match. There are cube style PC cases that are also compact and will take a standard power supply, but I'm guessing you already considered those.

6. I'd wait it out to see three things: reviews of the RVZ02, news of Intel's new processor line, and the AMD R9 390/390X series, all of which should be coming in a couple of months. The GTX 750 Ti is a great choice for gaming at 1080p/medium settings or lower, and it'll go with the 450 watt power supply just fine.

Eh, I'm not going to bother waiting for the new line of Intel processors. As it currently stands, I have a work fast work computer i5, 8GB of ram, SSD HDD. The problem is that it's very secure so I can't do things like use chrome extensions and every USB drive that's plugged in has to go through encryption. I have an old laptop that use to work wonderfully when I was in school (Asus UL30, but I let a friend borrow it for months and ever since it's ran like shit when it comes to playing 1080P video. I think the CPU/GPU is degrading or something - I even reformatted and up in a hybrid drive). My other device are a Nexus 7 and Xperia Z3 Compact. Therefore, I don't have any good computer for just fast browsing or even handling high quality video (well the Xperia Z3 Compact can handle anything, but I prefer to use a laptop at least for browsing and having a bigger screen).

I'll go with the 600 watt PSU.

In terms of parts, I could probably go ahead and pick up that RAM and other parts while they are cheap?
 
My PC has been frustrating me for a while and I need some help.

I have an overclocked E8400 at 3.6 Ghz system that hangs when I put the computer to sleep. Now mind you it doesn't happen every single time but it happens once every 2 or 3 successful attempts at sleeping. I figure it may be due to the overclock but it's a mild one at only 3.6ghz. These chips are notorious for going way beyond that. The voltage is at default values so it's not a voltage issue as far am I'm aware. I know it hangs because the HDD l.e.d indicator is on continuous red. I have a SSD and traditional mechanical HDD.

Any ideas?

Oh I've also made sure that under power options the boxes are left unticked for conserving power by rendering HDD's in sleep mode after inactivity.
 

naw

Member
Had you previously set the bios to quick-boot? Some mobos completely bypass the option to enter the UEFI. ASRock does this. They have option for normal, fast boot, and then a fastest setting (The name of which escapes me) that bypasses the UEFI altogether. They provide an app on their driver disc that you use to restart the computer in UEFI.
Nah I never enabled fast boot since I haven't even installed my OS yet.
 

Yudoken

Member
Got a bluescreen while watching a downloaded youtube video with MPC x86 and Smooth Video Player and some browsing with Firefox and Chrome.
Can someone give me any advice for this?
This is really grinding my gears...
Why should it crash randomly?
I don't know if it's related to this but I used BetterDS3 (the DS3 and Bluetooth drivers are loaded with Motionjoy).
I don't know anything else which could be related to it.
I keep my pc clean and nice.

My rig:
http://i.imgur.com/GTaVSvE.png
http://i.imgur.com/yiQYuxX.png

Bluescreen dump:
http://pastebin.com/X414dUD9
 

garath

Member
Got a bluescreen while watching a downloaded youtube video with MPC x86 and Smooth Video Player and some browsing with Firefox and Chrome.
Can someone give me any advice for this?
This is really grinding my gears...
Why should it crash randomly?
I don't know if it's related to this but I used BetterDS3 (the DS3 and Bluetooth drivers are loaded with Motionjoy).
I don't know anything else which could be related to it.
I keep my pc clean and nice.

My rig:
http://i.imgur.com/GTaVSvE.png
http://i.imgur.com/yiQYuxX.png

Bluescreen dump:
http://pastebin.com/X414dUD9

Run a memtest recently? Might be a memory thing. Google search also uncovered a firewire bug but seems to only be on Win7, not win 8.1 :(
 
I did some very minor tweaking to adjust for changing deals. I dropped the optical drive since I can source that from a friend that works IT. I'm considering ordering the parts no wish instead of waiting until tax returns come in. Anything need attention in this?

[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BN3wpg) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BN3wpg/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54590) | $171.98 @ Micro Center
**Motherboard** | [ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-h97mitxac) | $82.98 @ Newegg
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f31600c9d8gab) | $69.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $53.97 @ OutletPC
**Video Card** | [MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n750ti2gd5oc) | $99.99 @ Newegg
**Case** | [Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-case-rc130kkn1) | $34.99 @ Newegg
**Power Supply** | [EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100b10500kr) | $34.99 @ NCIX US
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $537.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-14 15:16 EST-0500 |
 
I did some very minor tweaking to adjust for changing deals. I dropped the optical drive since I can source that from a friend that works IT. I'm considering ordering the parts no wish instead of waiting until tax returns come in. Anything need attention in this?

[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BN3wpg) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BN3wpg/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54590) | $171.98 @ Micro Center
**Motherboard** | [ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-h97mitxac) | $82.98 @ Newegg
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f31600c9d8gab) | $69.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $53.97 @ OutletPC
**Video Card** | [MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n750ti2gd5oc) | $99.99 @ Newegg
**Case** | [Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-case-rc130kkn1) | $34.99 @ Newegg
**Power Supply** | [EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100b10500kr) | $34.99 @ NCIX US
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $537.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-14 15:16 EST-0500 |

Looks good to me.
 

Ihya

Member
It's not so much a concern or problem. When it comes to graphics cards, AMD and Nvidia design the base product with a certain level of performance. However, the vast majority of graphics cards are those produced by third party manufacturers like Gigabyte, Asus, MSI, etc. What they do is take the basic design, put a better cooler on it so it runs cooler and/or faster, and also add extra features.

For example: MSI, Asus, and some EVGA models of the GTX 970 feature silent running modes that other GTX 970 models don't have. Below 60 degrees, the fans will turn off, allowing for a completely silent graphics card. Other models like the Gigabyte Windforce feature high end coolers that do a much better job of cooling down the graphics card than the reference model's basic cooler.

More often than not, most models also feature slightly higher tweaked performance than the GTX 970 base reference model. DinoPC offers the Asus Strix GTX 970, I'd take that over the reference model. Or..

You could save about £135 building it yourself if you're so inclined. This parts list is better than the parts in that DinoPC build in terms of performance. If I go for the exact same parts, you'll save around £175 or so. You won't get three year warranty on the entire PC though, just the warranty of each individual part you buy.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£173.94 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.44 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Plus ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£93.19 @ Aria PC)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£113.06 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£52.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (£280.00 @ Aria PC)
Case: BitFenix Neos Black ATX Mid Tower Case (£29.75 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£61.16 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £881.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-13 23:49 GMT+0000

That's a big help up thanks for answering. I'm after a quiet PC since it will be near a TV, plus I'll use it for work and I hate background noise. That processor I my build is overclocked, will it be kicking the fan into use significantly more do you know? Any tips on how to reduce noise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
Gaf, currently I own a Logitech Illuminated Keyboard and a Razer Deathadder mouse, I'm happy with both but I'm thinking of changing the layout in my room this year so I guess a wireless keyboard and mouse would be best suited for what I'm considering.

So the point is, I need recommendations for a good wireless keyboard and mouse, preferably something not too expensive. I'm not very picky concerning mice, but the keyboard I'd prefer to be similar to this logitech one I'm using (has low-profile keys and can be lit).

Pics of what I am using for reference
logitech_illuminated_backlight_keys_and_led.jpg


logitech_illuminated_side_3.jpg


51qthZ5rc6L._SL1035_.jpg
 

Kayant

Member
That's a big help up thanks for answering. I'm after a quiet PC since it will be near a TV, plus I'll use it for work and I hate background noise. That processor I my build is overclocked, will it be kicking the fan into use significantly more do you know? Any tips on how to reduce noise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

It's only overclocked if you do it :p by default it will behave in the same way as a non-k processor. Really it will be fine especially if you have a hyper evo which is better than the stock cooler in cooling and noise. If you don't intend to overclock then you can get the non-k version like in the build from dino pc and save some money there.

To reduce noise you need a good slient case like the Fractal Design R5 - It's got great reviews - Kitguru, Techpowerup
Slient optimised case fans? and since you have the MSI gtx 970 it's fans won't start spinning until when it gets to 60C iirc. Lastly cut out the HDD if noise really is a big deal as it has moving parts compared to the SSD which doesn't.
 
My new gaming rig! After years of sitting on the fence I'm no longer partial to only consoles. I managed to put together a build with my nephew's help, a local shop and this thread that met my requirements of fitting into my existing entertainment cabinet. Very happy camper right now. I've been using it over the last couple of days and am extremely happy with it's performance thus far.

Thanks to everyone for your input and help in this thread. Y'all rock!

IMG_1070_zpse6deae5d.jpg
 
Not sure where else to post this but I need some technical help.

I'm having serious issues with my Battle.net launcher.

All games reverted to Install instead of Play and when I try to locate game files, I get the following error messages:

3jrZikp.png

(World of Warcraft)

eDPMukR.png

(Diablo III)

Everything worked fine last week. I haven't changed anything on my end aside from keeping Windows up to date. No other connection issues with any other software or hardware in my house. I've reset my router, released/renewed my IP and flushed DNS. Deleted my Battle.net Agent folder.... Any other ideas?
 

RGM79

Member
Eh, I'm not going to bother waiting for the new line of Intel processors. As it currently stands, I have a work fast work computer i5, 8GB of ram, SSD HDD. The problem is that it's very secure so I can't do things like use chrome extensions and every USB drive that's plugged in has to go through encryption. I have an old laptop that use to work wonderfully when I was in school (Asus UL30, but I let a friend borrow it for months and ever since it's ran like shit when it comes to playing 1080P video. I think the CPU/GPU is degrading or something - I even reformatted and up in a hybrid drive). My other device are a Nexus 7 and Xperia Z3 Compact. Therefore, I don't have any good computer for just fast browsing or even handling high quality video (well the Xperia Z3 Compact can handle anything, but I prefer to use a laptop at least for browsing and having a bigger screen).

I'll go with the 600 watt PSU.

In terms of parts, I could probably go ahead and pick up that RAM and other parts while they are cheap?

Well.. at least for me, the RAM has already changed price. The 1 x 8GB Kingston RAM is no longer available for $64 each.

Well, there's 16GB Team Vulcan Gold DDR3-2133 RAM for $126.

On the other hand, The Silverstone 600 watt power supply can be had for $118 now. According to the price tracker, that's the cheapest it's ever been and Directron doesn't offer that price for very long.

The MX100 128GB for $63 is at a decent price, but the MX200 line is coming, if you're getting a few parts at a time, maybe it's worth waiting for the new ones.

My PC has been frustrating me for a while and I need some help.

I have an overclocked E8400 at 3.6 Ghz system that hangs when I put the computer to sleep. Now mind you it doesn't happen every single time but it happens once every 2 or 3 successful attempts at sleeping. I figure it may be due to the overclock but it's a mild one at only 3.6ghz. These chips are notorious for going way beyond that. The voltage is at default values so it's not a voltage issue as far am I'm aware. I know it hangs because the HDD l.e.d indicator is on continuous red. I have a SSD and traditional mechanical HDD.

Any ideas?

Oh I've also made sure that under power options the boxes are left unticked for conserving power by rendering HDD's in sleep mode after inactivity.

I guess the obvious thing to try would be revert the overclock or reset BIOS to default settings and see whether it still hangs?

I did some very minor tweaking to adjust for changing deals. I dropped the optical drive since I can source that from a friend that works IT. I'm considering ordering the parts no wish instead of waiting until tax returns come in. Anything need attention in this?

[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BN3wpg) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/BN3wpg/by_merchant/)

I'd get a single stick of 1866MHz 8GB RAM, that leaves you room in the future for a second 8GB stick if you ever need to upgrade and the performance difference between single and dual channel isn't very great - it's a 5~10 percent difference in CPU benchmarks and unnoticeable when it comes to game framerate, but the better 1866MHz speed will somewhat make up for that. Here's a stick of 8GB G.Skill DDR3-1866 for $69.

For $5 more you can get the 600 watt version of the same power supply.

Is it possible to do a 1 stick RAM configuration for a ROG HERO VII motherboard?

Yeah, a single stick will run, no problem. Is there a reason you're running a single stick of RAM in an expensive motherboard?
 

reKon

Banned
Wondering if I should hop on the 2x8GB G.Skill Ares Low Profile ram for $128 on Neweg...

It's either that or wait for something good to go on slickdeal and hope I don't miss it lol. The thing about this ram is it's lower profile.

EDIT: Good timing on the post above ^
 

RGM79

Member
That's a big help up thanks for answering. I'm after a quiet PC since it will be near a TV, plus I'll use it for work and I hate background noise. That processor I my build is overclocked, will it be kicking the fan into use significantly more do you know? Any tips on how to reduce noise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

The processor comes with the ability to overclock, but it won't be overclocked unless you set it to be. Otherwise, it's just a slightly faster version of the one in that DinoPC prebuilt.

When idle or doing light work, even when overclocked the CPU won't be that hot and the CPU cooler won't be very loud. Only when doing intensive work like gaming or 3D rendering it'll get hotter and louder, but just about any CPU cooler that isn't the stock Intel cooler will do a decent job of keeping temperatures down with lower noise. The Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler listed there will handle the temperature of overclocks up to 4.5GHz no problem.

Like Kayant said, a good case will do well to keep noise down. CCL Computers has the black windowless Fractal Define R5 for £74. That price is pretty good - it's better than the Corsair 330R which sells for about the same price, and Nanoxia's line of also well-made Deep Silence cases all sell for a higher price.

Not sure where else to post this but I need some technical help.

I'm having serious issues with my Battle.net launcher.

All games reverted to Install instead of Play and when I try to locate game files, I get the following error messages:

3jrZikp.png

(World of Warcraft)

eDPMukR.png

(Diablo III)

Everything worked fine last week. I haven't changed anything on my end aside from keeping Windows up to date. No other connection issues with any other software or hardware in my house. I've reset my router, released/renewed my IP and flushed DNS. Deleted my Battle.net Agent folder.... Any other ideas?

Hard to troubleshoot errors like that. The Battle.net launcher should still detect games installed even if offline. The game files are still there, are they?

Try reinstalling the launcher.

Wondering if I should hop on the 2x8GB G.Skill Ares Low Profile ram for $128 on Neweg...

It's either that or wait for something good to go on slickdeal and hope I don't miss it lol. The thing about this ram is it's lower profile.

EDIT: Good timing on the post above ^

Yeah, unfortunately prices change somewhat frequently for RAM. Unlike for SSDs, there's no one or two go-to models to recommend, I usually check for whatever is rated at a good speed and is selling cheap and recommend that. For your case, I'm not sure it makes a difference because I've never personally built in a Silverstone SFF case. You might as well go for it, it's only $2 more.

Also, I found another reason to go for the 600 watt power supply. This guy on youtube is using the 450 watt non-modular model. He has a mess of cables lying in the case and no room to install the water cooler.

The Silverstone 600 watt modular power supply comes with space saving flat cables (they're an $$ optional extra for the 450 watt models), and you only need to plug in the cables you'll use.

sx600-g-03.jpg
 

Arsin

Member
If you want to get as close to 120fps as possible then SLI is going to be required whether you go with a 970 or a 980. My recommendation in that scenario would be to get two 970s and OC them. The Swift is capable of 144hz by the way, but the logic still applies.

Can you clarify what you mean by "you don't think you're able to take full advantage of GSYNC" ? The point of GSYNC is to eliminate tearing and align your monitors refresh rate with the GPU. It actually allows you to have a smooth experience with games even with a single GPU. I have Tri-SLI Titan Black setup with a Swift. I just started Mordor. I have disabled SLI when playing this game. It just doesn't work all that well with it enabled. I am playing maxed out with a Titan Black and I get anywhere from 50-60fps. With GSYNC on it is very smooth with zero tearing. On a non GSYNC panel you want to try and get as close to the refresh rate as possible which is why people usually recommend SLI in that scenario if that is the user's desire.

Hmmmm I must have not fully understood how G-Sync works. I thought I needed to try and get as close to 120/144fps as possible. So if my games are running at around 60-80fps, the g-sync will kick in to make it work with 144hz? So having one 780ti that can get most games close to 60fps I should be fine? Or will switching over to a 970 give that little extra push that I need to get up to 60fps at 1440p?
 
Hmmmm I must have not fully understood how G-Sync works. I thought I needed to try and get as close to 120/144fps as possible. So if my games are running at around 60-80fps, the g-sync will kick in to make it work with 144hz? So having one 780ti that can get most games close to 60fps I should be fine? Or will switching over to a 970 give that little extra push that I need to get up to 60fps at 1440p?

Normally with displays you are "locked" to framerates or you get screen tearing.

So you can't get something like 40 FPS or 70 FPS or something. That is why you have that entire 30 vs 60 FPS debate and nothing in between.

With GSync you can also have the framerates in between. If you don't have enough power to run at 120 or 144 FPS, you can just keep a framerate of for example 80 or so and it still will look great. It provides you with a lot more flexibility.

And framerate drops in games are less distracting.

EDIT: Of course it does still look better with higher framerates.
 

The Llama

Member
Hmmmm I must have not fully understood how G-Sync works. I thought I needed to try and get as close to 120/144fps as possible. So if my games are running at around 60-80fps, the g-sync will kick in to make it work with 144hz? So having one 780ti that can get most games close to 60fps I should be fine? Or will switching over to a 970 give that little extra push that I need to get up to 60fps at 1440p?

The way G-Sync works is it dynamically sync the refresh rate of your monitor to the FPS that your GPU is putting out. This eliminates screen tearing and can help make things feel a little smoother, especially (from what I've read, as I haven't really used it) from about 40-60 FPS. I think all G-Sync monitors are 144Hz anyway, so ideally you'll be pushing 90+ FPS, but G-Sync makes lower framerates more bearable.
 

knitoe

Member
Hmmmm I must have not fully understood how G-Sync works. I thought I needed to try and get as close to 120/144fps as possible. So if my games are running at around 60-80fps, the g-sync will kick in to make it work with 144hz? So having one 780ti that can get most games close to 60fps I should be fine? Or will switching over to a 970 give that little extra push that I need to get up to 60fps at 1440p?
GSync allows the game to be smooth while running 35 FPS and above. Thus, let's say your setup can only run the game at 50-70 FPS, the monitor would change refresh rates from 50-70hz to match. You no longer need to use vsync.

If you want to run at 1440p and 144hz, you are going to need to run SLI. Even then, you might have to lower graphic settings.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
My new gaming rig! After years of sitting on the fence I'm no longer partial to only consoles. I managed to put together a build with my nephew's help, a local shop and this thread that met my requirements of fitting into my existing entertainment cabinet. Very happy camper right now. I've been using it over the last couple of days and am extremely happy with it's performance thus far.

Thanks to everyone for your input and help in this thread. Y'all rock!

IMG_1070_zpse6deae5d.jpg
Very nice!
 

manfestival

Member
OK GAF so I need your assistance. I love upgrading my computer as much as the next person but budget isnt so high anymore so I will take my income tax to replace parts.

So my computer runs everything at high or very high (but not ultra) settings at around 40+ fps. I know the next generation is upon us and I want to run games like GTA 5 and etc very smoothly. I want to avoid getting an all new computer all together so I will not replace my GPU , case and PSU(500/80). My CPU I currently have is the AMD X4 965 and I have 8 gigs of ram. My motherboard(which im sure has been bottlenecking my system) is a biostar TA790GXB3. How exactly behind the curve am I on these pieces? I swear it doesnt feel like I am all that far compared to previous generations where the hardware felt like it was so ahead 3 years down the road.

Any advice or even smaller change that I can make?
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Plus ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($72.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($344.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $924.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-13 21:49 EST-0500

If you don't intend to overclock or want the option to run dual GTX 970 in SLI in the future, A little more money can be saved. Sorry, I'm not a monitor guy, can't really recommend one.

Thank you for the reply and help. A couple questions:

1) Seagate has a reputation for not being totally reliable. Is the harddrive listed above proven to be better off? As I said, I do want to use this PC for Video editing and I would hate to lose footage, although I may use an external to store it.

2) The site listing the build says this:

The NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case supports video cards up to 330mm long, but video cards over 230mm may block drive bays. Since the MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card is 269mm long, some drive bays may not be usable.

Would you (or anyone) happen to know how may drive bays the tower case has, and how many would be blocked.

Thanks again for the help.
 

Arsin

Member
Normally with displays you are "locked" to framerates or you get screen tearing.

So you can't get something like 40 FPS or 70 FPS or something. That is why you have that entire 30 vs 60 FPS debate and nothing in between.

With GSync you can also have the framerates in between. If you don't have enough power to run at 120 or 144 FPS, you can just keep a framerate of for example 80 or so and it still will look great. It provides you with a lot more flexibility.

And framerate drops in games are less distracting.

EDIT: Of course it does still look better with higher framerates.

The way G-Sync works is it dynamically sync the refresh rate of your monitor to the FPS that your GPU is putting out. This eliminates screen tearing and can help make things feel a little smoother, especially (from what I've read, as I haven't really used it) from about 40-60 FPS. I think all G-Sync monitors are 144Hz anyway, so ideally you'll be pushing 90+ FPS, but G-Sync makes lower framerates more bearable.

GSync allows the game to be smooth while running 35 FPS and above. Thus, let's say your setup can only run the game at 50-70 FPS, the monitor would change refresh rates from 50-70hz to match. You no longer need to use vsync.

If you want to run at 1440p and 144hz, you are going to need to run SLI. Even then, you might have to lower graphic settings.

Ahhh I see. So I don't really need to do anything to take advantage of G-Sync, that is working at any time I am running a game above 35 fps. Now if I wanted to get my games running at a full 144fps at 1440p, THAT would take some new cards. Thanks for the help that clears that up.

So if I am looking to run games around 60fps and above at 1440p, should the 780ti be enough? I mostly play DotA2 and WoW, but I do play most big titles, such as DA:I, Alien: Isolation, Lords of the Fallen, ect.
 

Flaymeboy

Neo Member
Yeah, a single stick will run, no problem. Is there a reason you're running a single stick of RAM in an expensive motherboard?

No reason, just curious as to how this all works and what can do what.

I've basically gone for most of what was on the "Nice Things" level on the first page. It's not exactly the same but I took my queue from there. There will be a few "smokey" purchases in the future. I had a budget of £2000 including monitor and I spent £1900 so I'll celebrate when it gets here with a £100 bottle of my tipple of choice which happens to be rum.

Thanks for your help man.
 

jett

D-Member
Duders recommend me some silent/hybrid PSUs for a 4670K/280X. The silent part is most important to me. Not interested in XFX or Seasonic as I've had bad luck with those brands and in fact detest them.
 

The Llama

Member
Duders recommend me some silent/hybrid PSUs for a 4670K/280X. The silent part is most important to me. Not interested in XFX or Seasonic as I've had bad luck with those brands and in fact detest them.

Corsair RM series. Fan doesn't turn on until the PSU is at >60% usage (IIRC). I use one myself and love it.
 

jett

D-Member
Corsair RM series. Fan doesn't turn on until the PSU is at >60% usage (IIRC). I use one myself and love it.

Thanks, I was thinking about making Corsair my next PSU, if this cocksucker reseller doesn't want to recognize the warranty on my Seasonic, which I already had to exchange once before.
 

reKon

Banned
The processor comes with the ability to overclock, but it won't be overclocked unless you set it to be. Otherwise, it's just a slightly faster version of the one in that DinoPC prebuilt.

When idle or doing light work, even when overclocked the CPU won't be that hot and the CPU cooler won't be very loud. Only when doing intensive work like gaming or 3D rendering it'll get hotter and louder, but just about any CPU cooler that isn't the stock Intel cooler will do a decent job of keeping temperatures down with lower noise. The Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler listed there will handle the temperature of overclocks up to 4.5GHz no problem.

Like Kayant said, a good case will do well to keep noise down. CCL Computers has the black windowless Fractal Define R5 for £74. That price is pretty good - it's better than the Corsair 330R which sells for about the same price, and Nanoxia's line of also well-made Deep Silence cases all sell for a higher price.



Hard to troubleshoot errors like that. The Battle.net launcher should still detect games installed even if offline. The game files are still there, are they?

Try reinstalling the launcher.



Yeah, unfortunately prices change somewhat frequently for RAM. Unlike for SSDs, there's no one or two go-to models to recommend, I usually check for whatever is rated at a good speed and is selling cheap and recommend that. For your case, I'm not sure it makes a difference because I've never personally built in a Silverstone SFF case. You might as well go for it, it's only $2 more.

Also, I found another reason to go for the 600 watt power supply. This guy on youtube is using the 450 watt non-modular model. He has a mess of cables lying in the case and no room to install the water cooler.

The Silverstone 600 watt modular power supply comes with space saving flat cables (they're an $$ optional extra for the 450 watt models), and you only need to plug in the cables you'll use.

sx600-g-03.jpg

Even using the flat cables, it seemed like this guy still had issues installing his H60. He said he went through 3 CPU coolers..

I'm reading through through this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1466816/silverstone-raven-rvz01-rvz02-ml07-ml08-ftz01-owners-club

It looks like people are having success installing the H55, but like you mentioned they are using slimmer fans. This is going to be nightmare for me if I decide to go with this cooler. What's the next best alternative just in case? This one? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A460TJ2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

EDIT: Everyone seems to love this - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Even though it's for processors under 65 TDP, it's still working great for most
 
Well crap, my order went through, I went to check and it's now voided.

Also, how the heck does ATI's numbering scheme work?

The 7xxx series were last gen, the current cards are the R5-2xx(low), R7-2xx(mid), and the R9-2xx(high). The New cards are thought to be announced/launched sometime this quarter or next. They will be R5/7/9-3xx cards.
 

Kayant

Member
Thank you for the reply and help. A couple questions:

1) Seagate has a reputation for not being totally reliable. Is the harddrive listed above proven to be better off? As I said, I do want to use this PC for Video editing and I would hate to lose footage, although I may use an external to store it.

2) The site listing the build says this:



Would you (or anyone) happen to know how may drive bays the tower case has, and how many would be blocked.

Thanks again for the help.

If you're talking about this - https://www.backblaze.com/hard-drive.html

Read this and this

Anecdotally I have a segate drive from 5 or so years ago and it still works fine. If you really don't feel confident about buying it you can always get the next brand that if cheapest. There won't be huge performance differences if any I think.
 

DrForester

Kills Photobucket
Question for modular PSU.

I need an extra SATA power plug, can I use a modular cord from a different PSU if the connections match? I'd be plugging it into a normal accessory plug on the PSU.
 

RGM79

Member
Thank you for the reply and help. A couple questions:

1) Seagate has a reputation for not being totally reliable. Is the harddrive listed above proven to be better off? As I said, I do want to use this PC for Video editing and I would hate to lose footage, although I may use an external to store it.

2) The site listing the build says this:

Would you (or anyone) happen to know how may drive bays the tower case has, and how many would be blocked.

Thanks again for the help.

1. Seagate currently has a bad reputation in general because of a very bad problem with firmware on their 7200.11 hard drive line from a few years ago, as well as a generally higher rate of failure on certain model of hard drives. Go with Western Digital or HGST/Hitachi if you're worried about failure rates, it's just a few dollars difference.

2. I chose the NZXT Source 210 Elite because it was a fairly cheap but decent case. The case has 8 hard drive bays, 1-2 bays would be blocked by the graphics card.

Even using the flat cables, it seemed like this guy still had issues installing his H60. He said he went through 3 CPU coolers..

I'm reading through through this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1466816/silverstone-raven-rvz01-rvz02-ml07-ml08-ftz01-owners-club

It looks like people are having success installing the H55, but like you mentioned they are using slimmer fans. This is going to be nightmare for me if I decide to go with this cooler. What's the next best alternative just in case? This one? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A460TJ2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

EDIT: Everyone seems to love this - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Even though it's for processors under 65 TDP, it's still working great for most

Compact air coolers are fine, just don't expect to overclock very far with them due to the limited heat they can deal with, which is why they are rated for 65 watt TDP only.

If you don't mind spending a bit more, this slightly taller Noctua NH-L12 will perform a bit better than the NH-L9i, it costs under $70. It is taller than the L9i, but apparently it will fit if the top fan is removed.

Question for modular PSU.

I need an extra SATA power plug, can I use a modular cord from a different PSU if the connections match? I'd be plugging it into a normal accessory plug on the PSU.

As long as the pinouts match and the connectors aren't loose, it sounds fine to do. If you have any 4 pin molex cables, you can also use a molex to SATA power adaptor.
 

Negator

Member
I've been pretty dissatisfied with how my PC has been performing lately, and I've decided to go ahead and scout for new computer parts. The plan is to use my old Antec 300 case with my 750w modular power supply that I just ordered when my old PSU died a few months ago.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($96.48 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($213.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($344.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1032.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-15 03:57 EST-0500

Poking around the thread these seem to be the most popular parts for a mid-rangeish cost/performance build. Any suggestions or recommendations or random things I might need to know?
 
I just realized I should have asked this here.

Can someone recommend to me a keyboard? Ideally:

- Not loud
- Light key activation/short travel (light like what you might find on a chiclet-style keyboard). No long travel.
- Backlighting would be nice but not necessary
- Macros not necessary
- Kitchen sink not necessary
- Needs to be available for purchase in the US. Local or Amazon preferred.
- < $150, and the lower the better if the quality is there.
 

LilJoka

Member
Question for modular PSU.

I need an extra SATA power plug, can I use a modular cord from a different PSU if the connections match? I'd be plugging it into a normal accessory plug on the PSU.

Never blindly do this as there is no standard modular PSU pin layout.
Only if the pin layout matches the wiring of the cable to plug it is ok otherwise something will blow up.
 

RGM79

Member
I've been pretty dissatisfied with how my PC has been performing lately, and I've decided to go ahead and scout for new computer parts. The plan is to use my old Antec 300 case with my 750w modular power supply that I just ordered when my old PSU died a few months ago.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($96.48 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($213.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($344.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1032.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-15 03:57 EST-0500

Poking around the thread these seem to be the most popular parts for a mid-rangeish cost/performance build. Any suggestions or recommendations or random things I might need to know?

Your parts look good, I only have a few things to recommend.

You can get 16GB of Team Vulcan Gold DDR3-2133 RAM for $126 from Newegg. It's slightly cheaper but also faster rated than the 1866MHz RAM you chose.

The ASRock Z97 Pro4 is a decent motherboard, but if you ever plan to (or just want the option of) going with SLI GTX 970 in the future, I'd recommend a motherboard like the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ($117) or MSI Z97S SLI Plus ($111). Otherwise if you don't plan to go SLI in the future and will only run a single graphics card, the Z97 Pro4 will do just fine.

I just realized I should have asked this here.

Can someone recommend to me a keyboard? Ideally:

- Not loud
- Light key activation/short travel (light like what you might find on a chiclet-style keyboard). No long travel.
- Backlighting would be nice but not necessary
- Macros not necessary
- Kitchen sink not necessary
- Needs to be available for purchase in the US. Local or Amazon preferred.
- < $150, and the lower the better if the quality is there.

The only thing I can think of that satisfies your want of short travel keys would be a scissor switch style keyboard. Still rubber dome, but it definitely has short key travel, whereas most mechanical keyboards all have more or less the same long key travel. Laptop keyboards are like that. I'm not sure if that will satisfy the low noise requirement.. it probably won't.

Otherwise.. maybe a mechanical keyboard with o rings set under each key. They make kits for that. I'm not sure exactly how far it'll reduce travel by, though. And I'm kind of hesitant to recommend you both a mechanical keyboard and an o ring set if it turns out to not be what you want.

WASD Keyboards make sample kits for people to try, they're priced at $12 (individual loose keys) or $15 (keys set on a plastic holder), kinda expensive. Both come with o-rings to try out. You may need to double up on o rings to reduce the travel enough, and there are also different o rings that vary in elasticity and hardness/softness.
 

Negator

Member
Your parts look good, I only have a few things to recommend.

You can get 16GB of Team Vulcan Gold DDR3-2133 RAM for $126 from Newegg. It's slightly cheaper but also faster rated than the 1866MHz RAM you chose.

The ASRock Z97 Pro4 is a decent motherboard, but if you ever plan to (or just want the option of) going with SLI GTX 970 in the future, I'd recommend a motherboard like the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ($117) or MSI Z97S SLI Plus ($111). Otherwise if you don't plan to go SLI in the future and will only run a single graphics card, the Z97 Pro4 will do just fine.

Thanks for the info! I don't really plan on going SLI, but it's not like I'm dead set on that motherboard anyway.
 

Volotaire

Member
I have a project with a society that I am working on to build a a very cheap (as budget orientated as you can get) miniATX/small form factor PC that can play local competitive indie game, Source games and for streaming purposes (Twitch, etc.). The small form factor is for storage purposes. With this in mind, I thought the obvious choice would be to go with an AMD APU A10 7800 or A8. I want to complete this build by March 2014 and purchase it in February 2014. Given this build will also be demonstrated as it is built, I also want something that if fairly upgradable with additional GPU's or RAM being bought in later years. I'm in the UK if this helps too. At the moment these are the parts I am looking at. The blanks or for advice on what components to purchase.

APU + Stock Cooler: A10 7800 : £100- £110
Motherboard:
RAM (8GB DDR3):
Case:
SSD (120GB) or HDD (1TB): Around £50
PSU (500-600W):
Accessories (Cables Ties, thermal Paste, etc.): £10

No monitor, M&KB, sound card or GPU is needed.

I want the build to be around £250-300. I understand this is pushing the limits, but I would be happy with estimates slightly above too.
 
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