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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
They're rated for different speeds and latency, the latter is slightly better. However, $254 for 16GB of 1866MHz RAM is extremely overpriced. You can get 16GB RAM rated for the same speed for about half the price.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/kingston-memory-hx318c10fk216
That model has slightly higher latency, if you're looking for same 1866MHz speed and CAS9 latency then there's this:
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/pny-memory-md16384kd31866x9
2x8GB and 4x4GB make no difference in performance for DDR3 platforms, just how many slots are used up.
I would say yes. The CPU is probably pulling around 10 Amps on the 12v rail, absolute worst case. The GPUs could pull 50 Amps, again, worst theoretical case. Most likely you'll never get near to max load on the PSU.
FYI I use a HX850 PSU to run 2 x 780 Ti and a 3570K @ 4.3Ghz with more devices than you and I've never had a problem with power.
Doesn't this thing suck >300W under full load?
It is an impressive price, even at only $30 off...
Alright so this is what I'm leaning towards http://pcpartpicker.com/p/sCWy3C
Won't order for another day just in case there is any modifications you guys think need to be done.
Won't order for another day just in case there is any modifications you guys think need to be done.
Drama Zed Nod
Member
Very helpful and reassuring. Thanks very much dudes
Welcome. Enjoy your bonkers performance.
On the Gigabyte Z97X series motherboards, how do folks feel about their Black Edition boards? Worth the extra cash for the rigorous testing or marketing BS?
About fed up with my system's blue screening (posted a few pages back) and am just going to bite the bullet on upgrading my ASUS P8P67 Deluxe and i2500k combo since that's about the only remaining old hardware in my last PC.
About fed up with my system's blue screening (posted a few pages back) and am just going to bite the bullet on upgrading my ASUS P8P67 Deluxe and i2500k combo since that's about the only remaining old hardware in my last PC.
Drama Zed Nod
Member
I was getting about 30fps on DA:Inquisition on my rog swift and just couldn't take anymore.
I know SLI support isn't all that amazing on day 1 for games but hopefully this will help a bit
I was getting about 30fps on DA:Inquisition on my rog swift and just couldn't take anymore.
I know SLI support isn't all that amazing on day 1 for games but hopefully this will help a bit
We're almost spec twins. I have the PG278Q too. For me, SLI is very worthwhile, despite the shortcomings.
Nope, around 260 watts.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/asus_radeon_r9_290_directcuii_oc_review,9.html
Drama Zed Nod
Member
How are you getting on with your swift? My one has developed some crazy issues. I'm actually waiting for ASUS to replace it (which they seem to be doing without any argument. They are just waiting for new stock to come in this week or next).
I was a little worried the second card isn't the same brand and model.
My initial purchase was an EVGA 780ti Classi and the one i just bought second hand is a Palit Jeststream. After a little reading i found it it just had to be the same actual GPU and VRAM ammount.
The clock speed difference on the cards is only 40mhz so i should be able to OC the jetstream to match the Classi exactly.
I'm hoping it's going to be relatively straightforward. Ive never done SLI before.
Amentallica
Unconfirmed Member
Don't know if y ' all heard, but a 2003 PC is good enough.
Depends on what you want to pay. 4670K/4690K or the 4770K/4790K is what you'll be looking at really unless you want to go Haswell-E and into 6 core CPUs.
I tend to use motherboard software for fan control. SpeedFan seems hit and miss on my systems.
my motherboard only has 1-9 I think. I'm not sure if something like 7 would equate to "75%" or not.
My Swift has been perfect and I've nothing bad to say about it. It's one of the best products I've ever used. I've had none of the issues reported. It seems Asus had some QA problems with it though. Glad you're getting yours replaced without hassle.
You should be fine with those two boards in SLI. If the Palit can achieve the over-clock, then that would be nice, otherwise I believe the EVGA will be down-clocked to match the Palit automatically. I have two matching EVGA boards and I've always used matching boards for SLI, so I'm not completely certain as to the behaviour for you.
Hey everybody. I put my computer together last night and got it booted up and running.
I checked to make sure my fans were running (they are) and that the memory was found (it was).
Both my drives (SSD and 2 TB Toshiba) are present in my BIOS, but windows doesn't seem to know I have the 2TB. Any thoughts?
Anyway, per the OP I started updating my drivers. Downloaded all the motherboard drivers, and my GPU drivers.
What's next? Should I run some stress tests now and verify my heat sink is fine, or is there something else I should do before that?
And thanks to all the people helping out in this thread - you're amazing. It's so incredibly helpful to have a place to ask questions.
EDIT: oh, and any recommendations for antivirus?
I checked to make sure my fans were running (they are) and that the memory was found (it was).
Both my drives (SSD and 2 TB Toshiba) are present in my BIOS, but windows doesn't seem to know I have the 2TB. Any thoughts?
Anyway, per the OP I started updating my drivers. Downloaded all the motherboard drivers, and my GPU drivers.
What's next? Should I run some stress tests now and verify my heat sink is fine, or is there something else I should do before that?
And thanks to all the people helping out in this thread - you're amazing. It's so incredibly helpful to have a place to ask questions.
EDIT: oh, and any recommendations for antivirus?
Drama Zed Nod
Member
I love the swift, its the business. Asus are actually going to come to my house with a new one and collect the old one, so there really isn't any bother. Id much rather have a new one with no issues than any other screen on the market right now. Do you always run yours at 144hz?
Picking up the second 780Ti was too good to pass up as the guy sold it to me for £200 as he just got a 980. I would have rather had a matching EVGA 780Ti Classi edition but for that money, just couldn't resist.
Drama Zed Nod
Member
I think you would have to initialise the 2TB drive in the disk management utility mate.
http://www.ghacks.net/2010/09/15/how-to-configure-a-new-hard-drive-in-windows-7/
Will do, thanks!
kraspkibble
Permabanned.
i5-4590
H97-D3H
8GB 1600
MSI R9 290 4GB
1TB 7200RPM WD Blue
EVGA Supernova 650W G1
NZXT H230
What do you think? Budget is £800 for the computer itself and all those parts come to £802 so can't go any more than this. Just wondering if I could get away with using cheaper parts.
Can't decide between some parts:
4460 or 4590 - will i notice the difference between these CPU's when it comes to gaming?
H97 D3H (Gigabyte) or H97 Pro4 (ASRock) ?
EVGA Supernova 650W G1 or 750W G2 - the 650W is quad rail and the 750W is single rail. not sure what this means. 650W is £73 and the 750W is £94. If I should get the 750W then I can stick another £20 in. Or would you recommend another PSU??
H230 seems a good case. Other ones I've looked at the Corsair 230T and Carbide Spec-01. Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
H97-D3H
8GB 1600
MSI R9 290 4GB
1TB 7200RPM WD Blue
EVGA Supernova 650W G1
NZXT H230
What do you think? Budget is £800 for the computer itself and all those parts come to £802 so can't go any more than this. Just wondering if I could get away with using cheaper parts.
Can't decide between some parts:
4460 or 4590 - will i notice the difference between these CPU's when it comes to gaming?
H97 D3H (Gigabyte) or H97 Pro4 (ASRock) ?
EVGA Supernova 650W G1 or 750W G2 - the 650W is quad rail and the 750W is single rail. not sure what this means. 650W is £73 and the 750W is £94. If I should get the 750W then I can stick another £20 in. Or would you recommend another PSU??
H230 seems a good case. Other ones I've looked at the Corsair 230T and Carbide Spec-01. Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
No. I usually set 120Hz for desktop use. For most games, I use 144Hz G-Sync mode. With some less challenging to run games I use ULMB mode at 85, 100 or 120Hz.
1. The difference is very little, you'll barely notice it. It's maybe a 5% difference in framerate, at best.
2. Looking at the specs for either, I'd go with the Gigabyte. All things considered, the Gigabyte model has a newer (better?) audio chipset and a M.2 slot that the ASRock model lacks.
3. The newer G2 should be better, but 750 watts is more than you'll really need. I'll recommend another PSU at the end. The issue with rails is not something you really need to worry about, it has little to no bearing on performance. It's more of a safety design choice, one that isn't necessarily needed.
4. All of those are decent cases, it's up to how much you want to spend. I like both Corsair and NZXT, when it comes down to choices, I'll figure out the rest of the build first and then look for a suitable case to hold it all. Do you have any preference for sound absorbing cases? Or the size? It's definitely possible to get a more compact motherboard and case.
Now, about your build in general.. where are you buying the parts? You're overpaying if that costs as much as £800.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£181.18 @ YoYoTech)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.97 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£83.04 @ Dabs)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£49.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£34.45 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290 4GB PCS+ Video Card (£199.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£46.39 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower Classic 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£59.98 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £679.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-11 16:40 GMT+0000
That's a better build than the one you were looking at and it doesn't even scratch £700. There's room to add an SSD or a larger hard drive. The Corsair 200R is a basic case, but it gets the job done. There's more than enough budget left over to look for a different case.
Nesmaster75
Member
Hey guys,
I'm fairly new to PC gaming and have been playing on an asus g53sx nh71 for nearly 5 years. I can't really play any new games that well anymore so I definitely wanna build something powerful.
I'd have to build something completely from scratch, but I'm looking at not spending any >$900, but I was wondering if some of you can build me something through http://pcpartpicker.com/. I'd much rather have someone on here who knows there shit build something (if you have the time of course!) rather than myself. Thanks & I can't wait to see some builds!
I'm fairly new to PC gaming and have been playing on an asus g53sx nh71 for nearly 5 years. I can't really play any new games that well anymore so I definitely wanna build something powerful.
I'd have to build something completely from scratch, but I'm looking at not spending any >$900, but I was wondering if some of you can build me something through http://pcpartpicker.com/. I'd much rather have someone on here who knows there shit build something (if you have the time of course!) rather than myself. Thanks & I can't wait to see some builds!
Are you in the US (are you close to Microcenter stores, for example)? Does your budget include taxes? Is it before or after rebates? Does this include a monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc? Will you be doing anything other with the PC like video editing? When are you looking to buy parts? Do you have a preference on the size of the PC (mid tower or lower is the question)? Are you open to overclocking?
The R9 280 is the oldest (it's a rebadged 3 year old Radeon 7970), but the 3GB VRAM makes it stand out because it'll be better able to handle games which at 1080p are starting to need more than 2GB of VRAM.
The GTX 960 on the other hand is newer and will see better support and features from the latest drivers.
GTX 760 is being replaced by the GTX 960, no real reason to consider it now unless it was significantly cheaper than either of the other choices.
Where are you buying the graphics cards?
riskybusinesstomcruise
Member
Does anyone have experience building computers for AutoDesk Inventor and similar programs?
Specifically which components are most important to smooth performance in the programs. The specifications seem to indicate that the CPU is most important but I get the feeling other factors may weigh in heavily as well.
I'd probably be using it for gaming down the line as well, though I was planning to buy a cheap card to throw in until I have more money to throw into it.
Specifically which components are most important to smooth performance in the programs. The specifications seem to indicate that the CPU is most important but I get the feeling other factors may weigh in heavily as well.
I'd probably be using it for gaming down the line as well, though I was planning to buy a cheap card to throw in until I have more money to throw into it.
What motherboard is this?
No actual experience with AutoDesk, but I don't see why putting together a PC that fulfills the requirements won't be smooth. It's just a matter of "higher budget = higher performance". The only way that I can see it not being smooth is if the computer had extremely low specs and poor performance. If they required specific hardware parts, then they typically state the requirements somewhere, like Adobe software requirements giving examples of graphics cards for CUDA or OpenCL accelerated performance.
I'm buying it in Portugal, I could buy from abroad, but postage and I want to avoid assembling it myself because I tend to have terrible luck and something ends up going wrong.
The go-to cheapest sites in Portugal have prices in the same ballpark, it depends on the maufacturer and model, honestly I don't know which one to choose. In www.chiptec.pt for example:
Msi Radeon R9 280 Gaming Edition OC 3GB GDDR5 : 224,90
Msi GTX960 GAMING 2G 2GB GDDR5 PCI-E : 245,90
I'm trying to figure out a build to post here and ask you kind folks, I'm trying not to go over 800 Euros, but it kinda seems impossible looking at one of these gpus and an i5 4690.
Good cpu and a decent gaming gpu.
inventer switched from opengl to directx so those high dollar gl cards are no use anymore but a decent gaming gpu will do great.
Ally1987
Member
cleveridea
Member
For my GTX 980, i7 system I thinking of getting VG278HE for 3D games. Can anyone recommend this one or another if appropriate?
I can afford to pay more if necessary but I am thinking with 3D the 980 is going to be best at 1080p (vs higher resolution for 2D)
I can afford to pay more if necessary but I am thinking with 3D the 980 is going to be best at 1080p (vs higher resolution for 2D)
Thebrokenleg
Neo Member
Hi everyone!
The HDMI port of my GPU stopped working the other day so i bought a DVI->VGA adapter to see if I could use the DVI port in my computer with the VGA port on my monitor instead. Turns out my screen now has these green stripes and bad colors all over it, and I can only start it fully by doing it in safe mode, otherwise it just turns black after the bios start-up messages. My computer is kind of old (from late 2011) so in the end I figured I might as well do an upgrade.
I want the upgrade to be graphics based up to the point of being able to play both newer and older games at a higher setting and with 60 FPS. I don't need it to be The Witcher 3 strong, but I want to be able to play games like Fallout 3/New Vegas and Minecraft heavily modded, or The Witcher 2, Dragon Age Inquisition and other more graphically demanding games, with a better performance.
I am guessing that I need to upgrade more than just the GPU in order for everything to function, but I am not that great at picking out parts to buy, so I am wondering if anyone could help me out on what I should and need to get, for this upgrade?
Current specs:
CPU: Intel Core i7 950 3.06GHz 8MB S-1366
RAM: Kingston DDR3 HyperX 3x4GB GB 1600 MHz CL9
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth X58 S-1366 ATX
GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD6950 2GB GDDR5 PCI-E
PSU: Corsair TX 850W M Modular ATX12V 2.31/EPS12V
Case: NZXT Fulltower Phantom ATX Black
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB 7200RPM SATA/600 32 MB
Monitor: Samsung LED SyncMaster SA550 1920x1080 60 Hz
Budget: Depends on what parts I need to upgrade + Sweden
Main Use: Light Gaming 1; Gaming 5; Emulation (PS2/Wii) 2; General Usage 4.
Overclocking: No
The HDMI port of my GPU stopped working the other day so i bought a DVI->VGA adapter to see if I could use the DVI port in my computer with the VGA port on my monitor instead. Turns out my screen now has these green stripes and bad colors all over it, and I can only start it fully by doing it in safe mode, otherwise it just turns black after the bios start-up messages. My computer is kind of old (from late 2011) so in the end I figured I might as well do an upgrade.
I want the upgrade to be graphics based up to the point of being able to play both newer and older games at a higher setting and with 60 FPS. I don't need it to be The Witcher 3 strong, but I want to be able to play games like Fallout 3/New Vegas and Minecraft heavily modded, or The Witcher 2, Dragon Age Inquisition and other more graphically demanding games, with a better performance.
I am guessing that I need to upgrade more than just the GPU in order for everything to function, but I am not that great at picking out parts to buy, so I am wondering if anyone could help me out on what I should and need to get, for this upgrade?
Current specs:
CPU: Intel Core i7 950 3.06GHz 8MB S-1366
RAM: Kingston DDR3 HyperX 3x4GB GB 1600 MHz CL9
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth X58 S-1366 ATX
GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD6950 2GB GDDR5 PCI-E
PSU: Corsair TX 850W M Modular ATX12V 2.31/EPS12V
Case: NZXT Fulltower Phantom ATX Black
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB 7200RPM SATA/600 32 MB
Monitor: Samsung LED SyncMaster SA550 1920x1080 60 Hz
Budget: Depends on what parts I need to upgrade + Sweden
Main Use: Light Gaming 1; Gaming 5; Emulation (PS2/Wii) 2; General Usage 4.
Overclocking: No
Maybe consider overclocking your CPU if you haven't already done it, all you need is a decent cooler. If you're not lacking in CPU power, then all you need is a new graphics card upgrade. Seriously, 850 watts is overkill, your case is huge, there's nothing really holding you back.
What's your budget, and are there any local retailers you prefer to buy from?
for the h100i people, here's the forum thread about mountaint, this one using orings (i used lock washers, both should work)
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=113707&page=3&langid=3
it is also IMPERATIVE that you mount the backplate so that the carveouts for the screwes lines up with the cpu socket. The backplate is NOT symmetrical and can be installed only one way.
Corsair continues to deny it's a problem, but i experienced huge temp drops once i included the washers, so....caveat emptor.
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=113707&page=3&langid=3
it is also IMPERATIVE that you mount the backplate so that the carveouts for the screwes lines up with the cpu socket. The backplate is NOT symmetrical and can be installed only one way.
Corsair continues to deny it's a problem, but i experienced huge temp drops once i included the washers, so....caveat emptor.
Nesmaster75
Member
1.) I have a Microcenter store about an hour away from me.
2.) Budget includes taxes & before rebates
3.) I have the Sony 3D Display as my monitor, but will need a mouse/keyboard.
4.) I'll mostly use it for playing games, but also for working in Unreal Engine 4, Photoshop, etc. every once in awhile.
5.) I'm looking to buy parts by the end on the month.
6.) In terms of tower size, I want something that is fairly easy to carry to a friends house & for when I move to college in a few months.
7.) I've never overclocked my CPU/GPU, but I'm not really interested in doing that stuff because I'd probably be careless and overheat something.
Got my AOC G-sync monitor (the one ThoseDeafMutes has) last week, but still haven't been able to try it out since I sent in my EVGA 970 FTW to step-up to the FTW+ just before it arrived. Pure torture.
I've never experienced a refresh rate above 60hz, let alone G-sync. How good does 144hz feel?
I've never experienced a refresh rate above 60hz, let alone G-sync. How good does 144hz feel?
curiouscharles
Member
i'm fairly confident you'll be more than safe @ 1080p.
i play on a 1440p monitor [use it for photography mostly] and i manage to run all of those games [mostly maxed out] at 45fps - 60fps @ 1440p - on an EVGA 980 SC.
every now and again, for shits & giggles, i turn the resolution down to 1080p and think to myself "maybe i should get a second 1080p monitor just for gaming?" [because everything runs so damn well].
i mostly want the 1TB SSD so that i can store photographs on it - i keep dreaming of just how smooth Adobe Lightroom would be if i had all my current edits sitting on a segsy smooth solid state drive... would even save me crucial minutes at every step and cut down my post-processing time to something more manageable [& less fury-inducing].
AbortedWalrusFetus
Member
I don't have a g-sync monitor, but after 144Hz going back to a 30fps game is super jarring. For instance I was playing Elite: Dangerous with everything pretty much maxed at 144fps, then I played South Park: Stick of Truth which is locked at 30fps. South Park was painful at that framerate.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($184.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($121.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 290 4GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($37.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($67.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $837.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-11 15:20 EST-0500
$888 before promotional discounts, rebates, and taxes, hopefully that's enough. I'm not entirely clear how taxes in the States work for online retailers, I believe it depends on which state you're ordering from, and perhaps the retailer as well.
Microcenter has that i5 4590 processor for just $160, but I don't know if it's worth the gas money or tax rate for you to go there. If you are willing to go to Microcenter, you also have the possibility of picking up the case ($32 after $10 rebate) and motherboard ($80 after $10 rebate) on the build list from there as well instead of ordering online. Click on "price breakdown by merchant" to see how much it'd cost by retailer.
Here's an alternative build with 8GB RAM but includes an SSD as suggested by thespot84:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($184.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($57.80 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 290 4GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($37.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($67.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $833.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-11 15:48 EST-0500
since you're buying a locked CPU why do you need an aftermarket cooler?
Also, 8gb of ram is plenty for gaming. If you're going to stay with the locked CPU and not OC, then I would ditch the cooler and the extra ram and put the money into an SSD
Thing is the way their mounting mechanism is designed it relies on a consistent motherboard PCB thinkness. And when manufacturers use different thickness the cooler mounting fails. Corsair will say its by design.
I'm running this on a gigabyte ud4h, which is supposedly thicker than standard, isn't it?
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