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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
2017 Thread 2017 Thread 2017 Thread

Laptop-GAF and TechSupportGAF - Visit our friends here
120/144Hz LightBoost thread - For all your low frametime (High FPS) needs
2017 High-res PC screenshot thread - Post new and old bullshots and in game snaps here
Mechanical Keyboard Talk - Talk about buying expensive and loud clacky things here
Buy / Sell / Trade Thread - Buy! Sell! Trade! 2016 Thread.



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This OP is a constant work in progress. If you have something to correct, add, or critique please PM me.

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02/25/2017: AMD Ryzen (New CPUs!) Thread. Release 3/3/17! Accessories update soon after build sheet.
12/19/2016: Update your nVidia drivers to 376.33 if you haven't for a security fix.
05/07/2016: Next gen GPUs: nVidia 1080/1070 Thread (May 27th start of launch), AMD - TBD
08/04/2012:: Two useful cooling articles: Case Fan Temps and Positioning - (Bit-Tech), 60 Fans Tested (Vortez)

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If you want help with a build fill this out AND try making one of your own from the resources in the OP :)
Use PCPartPickerhttp://pcpartpicker.com/ to find the best prices and have a nice list of parts (Check if items are in stock!). I highly recommend Amazon, Newegg, and NCIXUS in North America.

[Basic Desktop Questions]
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  • Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)
  • Budget: Price Range + Country
  • Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
  • Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? (1080p, 1440p, 4K (2160p) Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA / GSYNC / FREESYNC to you?
  • Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750TX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
  • When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? How long can you wait?
  • Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)

PICKING YOUR PARTS
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Anandtech's 'Bench' CPU and GPU Benchmarks
- A great resource. Helpful for getting a general idea of performance or comparing hardware.


NeoGAF PC Builds
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Mkenyon's Small Form Factor Build Sheet - http://bit.ly/GAFBox2014


Haz's PC Build Sheet - http://bit.ly/newpc2016


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[QUIET OPTIONS]
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$70 - NZXT H230 . . . . .
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$90 - Fractal Define S Silent . . .
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$130 - Fractal Define XL R2​

[BUDGET]
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$50 - Corsair 100R . . . . .
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$60 - CM N400 . . . . . . . . . .
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$65 - Corsair 200R​

[ENHANCED]
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$70 - Phanteks P400 (PH-EC416P)
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$90/$100 - Phanteks Pro/Pro Adv . .
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$90 - Fractal Define S

[ENTHUSIAST]
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$150 Corsair Air 540 . . . .
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$180 - Phanteks EVLOV ATX . . . .
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$240 - Phanteks Primo . . . .
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$400 - CaseLabs SM8​

[Micro ATX]
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$40 - Silverstone PS08
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$100 - Corsair Air 240 .
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$100 - Define Mini . . . . .
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$110 - Node 804​

[Mini-ITX]
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$70 - Silverstone RVZ02
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$80 - Fractal Node 202 . . . . .
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$200 - NCASE M1​

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These headphones are mainly chosen for positional quality. No budget headsets since most are poor. I suggest going with a 3.5mm mic and Xonar DGX if needed instead.

[HEADSETS]
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$75/$120 - Siberia 200/350
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$250/300 - Sennheiser 350 SE / 363D - 363D are open ear, include virtual 7.1 DAC, and are USB.


[HEADPHONES]
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$45 - Superlux HD668B or HD681 EVO
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.
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$110 - ATH-AD700X (For positional) / ATH-M50x (For Bass)
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$150 - BD DT990 250 Ohm Pro
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$250 - AKG Q701


[MICS]
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$50 - Antlion ModMic 4.0 (Detachable magnetic clip on your headphones, great quality, recommended with mechanical keyboard if streaming)
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$3 - DX Clip-on mic (2-6 Week shipping)


[KEYBOARDS]
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Mechanical switches are referred to Cherry MX switches. MX Brown = Quiet tactile, MX Blue = loud tactile, MX Black = stiff linear, MX Red = soft linear. Cooler Master University.

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$15 - Rosewill RIKB . . . . . .
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$15 - MS Keyboard 200
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$50 - Corsair K30

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$90 - CM Quickfire Stealth
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$90 - CM Quickfire XT . .
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$180 - CM Novatouch TKL

[PERFORMANCE MICE]
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Speed, accuracy, and sensor customization are valued here.

Spawn is an amazing value designed for claw and hybrid grips as it centers weight right under claw grip. If you absolutely love the MX518 shape, then the G400S is a good choice at $45, but is outperformed by the Rival and M45. The Corsair is a better fit for strict palm grip with large hands, and for those who prefer a heavier mouse. The Rival is lighter and is good with palm and hybrid grips and has great software. G502 is apparently the second coming of Gaben or something like that.

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$35 - CM Storm Spawn
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$45 - Logitech G400S
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$60 - Corsair M45
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$60 - SteelSeries Rival
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$80 - Logitech G502


[AMBIDEXTROUS AND MMO MICE]
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For those extra buttons over a very precise sensor.

The Recon has a great sensor and firmware for the price, as well as an ambi grip. The Sensei does as well, and has the best sensor here. The M95's side button layout is the best of the MMO oriented mice. G700s is the only wireless mouse listed here.

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$35 - CM Storm Recon
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$60 - SS Sensei Raw
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$80 - Corsair M95
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$90 - Logitech G700s


[PADS]
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For most people, any cheap cloth pad will be fine. These are some other options.

The Ripper XXL is massive, allowing a seamless mousing surface.The CM Storm Control RX is a thicker hybrid design with a lycra surface allowing for easier gliding movements, and is best suited for low CPI/DPI. The CM Storm Power RX is a large textured surface allowing for good control without destroying mouse feet. The Artisan Shiden is a glass coated cloth pad that defies the typical trade-off between textured and smooth surfaces, as it has great control and allows for smooth whips.

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$20 - XTrac Ripper XXL
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$30 - CM Control-RX . . . .
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$35 - CM Power-RX . .
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$40-50 - Artisan Shiden L or XL


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[BUDGET]
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$120 - ASUS VS229H-P
And any $100-$120 monitor that has decent reviews and is not an lesser brand. Try to check input lag on TFTcentral. Many of the higher monitors also go on steep discounts.

[STANDARD]
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$140 - ASUS VS238H-P
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$140 - ASUS VS239H-P

The 238H-P is a TN panel with less input lag. The 239H-P is an IPS panel with better colors.

[120Hz+ @ 1080p]
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$280 - BenQ XL2411Z . . . .
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$280 - ASUS VG248QE

The BenQ XL2411Z is a great TN high refresh rate monitor to buy, with a firmware based strobing effect that works with BlurBuster's Strobing Utility. Get the ASUS VG248QE for G-Sync compatibility, module not included.

[1440/4K]
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$750 - Acer XB271HU (Has QA issues, still best, stick with it until you get a good one)




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Amazon (Parts)
Newegg (Parts)
NCIXUS (Parts)
Performance-PCs (Cases, Fans Acessories)
Micro Center (Parts and great IN STORE deals)


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NCIX (Parts, Assembly, Price Match)
Amazon.CA (Parts)
Canada Computers (Parts) - Eastern Regional
Memory Express (Parts, Assembly, Price Match) - Western Regional
Newegg.CA (Parts, Ships from US)


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Novatech (Parts)
Overclockers UK (Parts)
Amazon UK (Parts)
Aria PC (Parts)
Ebuyer (Parts, Custom Built)
Microdirect (Parts)
HardwareVersand (Parts)
Misco (Parts)
Scan (Parts)
Dino PC (Custom Built)
YoYoTech (Custom Built)


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PC Case Gear (Parts, Best Online Retailer)
PCDIY (Parts)
CPL (Parts)
Umart (Parts, Cheaper Shipping Outside Victoria)
Scorpion Technology (Parts)
MSY (Parts)
staticICE (Product Finder)


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The Tech Report
PC Perspective
AnandTech
TechPowerUp
X-bit labs
HardOCP
Hardware Canucks
Jonnyguru + HardwareSecrets = Legit PSU reviews
Silent PC Review = The quiet side of computing

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Ninite A batch downloader and installer for popular programs. A fantastic time saver for any new PC build.
Steam Mover tool for moving Steam games to a different HDD/SSD
Steam Tool Another tool for moving steam games.

MSI Afterburner (aka RivaTuner) allows you to manage GPU overclocking, fan speed/profiles and chart many aspects of your GPU.
CPU-Z - gathers information on your Motherboard, BIOS, CPU, FSB, VCORE voltage and memory timings.
GPU-Z gathers information (Speed, architecture, temps) on your video card and GPU.
Real Temp allows you to monitor the temperature of your CPU core(s).
HWInfo allows you to monitor fan speed, temperature, voltage, etc.
CrystalDiskMark Tests read and write speed of your hard drives.

nVidia Inspector allows you to optimize the display, improve the performance and fully utilize your NVIDIA graphics card.
Radeon Pro allows you to optimize the display, improve the performance and fully utilize your AMD graphics card.
Dxtory / nVidia driver options allows you to limit the frame rate on most games. Excellent for older games or just getting a locked framerate.
Fraps allows you to record real time video, take screen captures and display your FPS.
Open Broadcast Software a streaming and recording program for things like Twitch.TV A free and better competitor to XSplit.

OCCT allows you to stress test your CPU and GPU, along with GPU memory.
Prime95 allows you to stress test your CPU and RAM for stability.
FURMark allows you to stress test your video card.
Memtest86+ allows you to run a full memory scan to deal with the blue screen of death and system errors.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
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[Video Build Guides]
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The Tech Report - A nicely laid out and compact build guide

TTL OC3D - A more enthusiast build guide that covers some extra things you can do along with cable management

Thermal Paste: Apply as a ~4mm ball to the CPU. Press the heatsink down and tighten. Line method is ok. Application matters way less than you think. If you take the heatsink off, clean it with alcohol and reapply or you will trap air.
That darn CoolerMaster 212: Why won't you install I swear I was good with computers. A handy picture guide.


[Overclocking Guides]
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Socket 1155 Overclocking Guide (Sandy, Ivy, 2500K, 3570K, 3770K, all motherboards)
SSD Setup and Tweaking
Video Card Cooler Guide by mkenyon(ZFZ)

[Help! My PC won't turn on/POST/Boot]
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  • Check your manual for beep codes or debug LED display codes
  • Shutoff your PC, switch off the PSU, and unplug the power cable. Wait 10s and hold the power button to drain the remaining power out of the system
  • Check your power is on I and the correct Voltage (120V/240V)
  • Check that you plugged in the extra motherboard power (4 or 8 pin)
  • Reconnect all your cables (Data and Power)
  • Try a single stick of memory in the first RAM slot (read your manual), then try the other
  • Check for any loose screws or bits in the case and behind the motherboard
  • Check that you installed the motherboard standoff screws (Some cases have these pre-installed)
  • Remount the GPU on another PCI-E slot, or try no GPU
  • As a last step assemble the bare minimum outside the case (PSU, CPU, Heatsink, 1 stick of RAM, nothing else)

[mkenyon's Guide to Efficient Formatting/Windows Installation]
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  1. Get an ISO of either Windows 7 or Windows 8 or Windows 10.
  2. While the ISO is downloading, go to your motherboard manufacturer's website to the support section. Locate your motherboard and download the newest Chipset, Audio, USB 3.0, and LAN drivers. If your motherboard has unique features such as the ASUS RoG line, it's a good idea to get the drivers for those as well. Put those on a separate flash drive.
  3. Go to NVIDIA or AMD's website and download the latest videocard drivers. Put those on the same flash drive as the motherboard drivers.
  4. Next, download the Microsoft USB Installation utility. Use this to put Windows on a Flash Drive.
  5. If you are installing Windows 7, you'll need to take an extra step of allowing you to choose the proper SKU for installation, as the ISO is Ultimate by default. Once the utility is finished writing the ISO to your Flash Drive, open the drive in Windows Explorer, and locate the 'Sources' folder. In this folder is a file called 'ei.cfg'. Delete that.
  6. Next, start the PC with the Flash Drive plugged directly into your rear I/O. Upon boot, go into UEFI/BIOS, as you will need to set the Flash Drive to be the primary boot disk. Once this is completed, restart your system and begin installing Windows.
  7. Once you are in, go ahead an put the flash drive in with the drivers. Install those, and reboot.
  8. After you reboot, you should be able to run Windows Update, which will most likely install all of the remaining drivers as well as update Windows.
  9. When Windows Update finishes, you can go into Device Manager to check if there are any unrecognized devices. If there are, get the drivers for those from your motherboard manufacturer's website.
If you used your USB as a boot device for something else and Windows won't install check this post using diskpart.


[SSD Tip and Tools]
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SSD Setup and tweak guide [SSDReview]

Disable defragmentation
Description: Defragmenting a hard disk's used space is only useful on mechanical disks with multi-millisecond latencies. Free-space defragmentation may be useful to SSDs, but this feature is not available in the default Windows Defragmenter.
Instructions: Start Menu -> Right-Click Computer -> Manage -> Services and Applications -> Services - > Right-Click Disk Defragmenter -> Startup type: Disabled -> OK

Disable Hibernate
Description: You may free up 1GB of space on the SSD if you have 1GB of memory, 2GB of space if you have 2GB memory. You will lose the hibernation feature which allows the equivalent of quick boots and shutdowns.
*Some systems may have trouble resuming from Hibernate/Sleep with SSDs and is another reason to disable this feature.
Instructions: Start Menu -> Type cmd -> Right-Click the cmd Icon -> Run as Administrator -> Type powercfg -h off -> Type exit

Links to useful SSD tools:
Crystal Mark Bench + NFO Tool
AS-SSD TOOL
Steam Mover Tool

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2017
2016
2015 Part 1 + 2
2014 Part 1 + 2 + Part 3
2013 Part 1 + 2
2012 Part 1 + 2
2011 Part 1 + 2
2010 / 2009 / 2008
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
*Now is the time to PM suggestions and such, thanks!

Reserved for SFF / Update comments.

  • Updated Audio section
  • Made big notes about SSD failure on unexpected power loss
  • Changes to parts and prices
  • Big update to case section (some exciting ones now)
  • Updated top links
  • Added upcoming section in sheet
  • Added Skylake OC guide in second post
  • Trimmed a few items / sections of OP/SP

I've been pretty out of the thread, but there's some great new cases and power supplies. Just need a good mid range card in a couple months and everything will be looking up again.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Think I barely posted in the last thread. Maybe like 2 posts.

Thinking about some upgrades this year, going to see how AMD's stuff turns out. Summit Ridge might finally shake up the CPU market a little and P10 could be a solid for 1080p+freesync. Since I'm thinking about 144hz too I might need better than P10 though, and Gsync is waaaaaaaay out of my price range for a monitor.

I guess it isn't recommended rocking a 2500K anymore?

I still am! But I'll probably upgrade to Kaby Lake or Summit Ridge.
 
Can't wait to upgrade my 980 with a 1080. I'm glad that I'll probably be spending most of my time for the foreseeable future in Overwatch, which isn't very taxing - still getting a very high frame rate at 1440p, but it could be more solid.

Do we know the physical dimensions of the 1080? I really love my current case, but my 980 barely fit. Here's my current case.

Also, I'm still rocking the i5-4670 - when would be a good time to upgrade? It's served me well for much longer than I thought, but I really need to upgrade sometime.
 

Chiggs

Gold Member
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=204398895&postcount=20540

Re-posting:

Chiggs said:
Just added another XFX R9 390x to my system. Was really considering going for two GTX 1070s or 1080s, but I don't want to put up with the launch bullshit, and if I'm going to dump $900-1200 (or more) on a couple of cards, I want them to have HBM2--not some stop-gap GDDR5x solution...which I imagine will lose its luster late this year or early next, once people get a load of what the true heir to the throne is capable of delivering.

Anyway, I got a damn good deal on it, along with a free copy of Total War: Warhammer.

If the Polaris launch is compelling, I *might* consider returning the 2nd R9 390x...but still, I'm not all that thrilled at forking out dough for GDDR5x stuff (if Polaris products are even using it). If anything, I'm more interested in seeing what Zen has to offer...that's the real make or break product for AMD.

Doom at 1440p with everything maxed out, running at 70-80fps is a sight to behold, btw. :)

Any tips for a first time Crossfire'er? Everything seems to be running smoothly? Fallout 4 and Doom have never looked better. Played some Vermintide at Ultra settings and it was pretty incredible.

Should I be actively seeking out AMD's profiles in Crimson, or is the default good enough? Any bios settings I should be aware of?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
If your xFire solution is working and you aren't getting horrendous microtearing I'd leave it alone. Just make sure drivers are up to date to get more profile updates.
I guess it isn't recommended rocking a 2500K anymore?
An OC'd 2500K is still quite fine for a vast majority of applications, but it's getting to the point where Skylake boards and DDR4 prices are down enough + gains of DDR4 2800+ and IPC gains that it's the turning point, mainly if you get 8 Threads or more than 4 cores.
Anyone here using the G900 from Logitech? Is it worth the $149.99?
Get someone to send me one and I'll see if it's worth it :p
 

Dmax3901

Member
Reposting from end of last thread:

So I just installed an arctic xtreme iv on my r9 290 but now my monitor isn't displaying anything :( any idea what I did wrong?

UPDATE: I removed the big chunky black heatsink from the top of my card and it now works. My question now is how important that heatsink is.
 

wbEMX

Member
wonder if a 1070 will run battlefield 1 at max settings on 1080p

1070 in SLI for sure.

I mean, we don't really know.

High settings 60fps seems very likely. Max, though... Who needs max anyway? It's just a label.

1080 probably would. but battlefield 1 is going to probably be the most demanding game this fall.

Have you guys actually played a recent Frostbite game on PC? A 970 can handle Battlefront on Ultra perfectly fine. Mirror's Edge runs great, too, from what I have heard. And BF4 also runs perfectly on my machine with the 970. Unless they go all-out with an overhauled engine like they did back in the BF3 days I would stay calm. Let the hyperboles flow the moment we know more. For now Frostbite is one of the best, most performant engine out there, at least when looking at DICE-developed games.

.... or this was just bait. :p

Anyways, thanks for the thread. Currently looking for the perfect parts for a €1000 PC a friend of mine wants to build. Still waiting for the EU GTX1070 and Polaris prices.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Thank you for updating.
But I thought you'd wait for polaris 10 benchmarks/prices first.
GAF has a 20,000 post/thread limit and the builds were extremely out of date so I felt pretty guilty given I haven't been spending as much time in the threads. Not looking forward to making a lot of small updates, but it needed to be done.

Thanks for taking up a lot of the slack.
Reposting from end of last thread:

So I just installed an arctic xtreme iv on my r9 290 but now my monitor isn't displaying anything :( any idea what I did wrong?

UPDATE: I removed the big chunky black heatsink from the top of my card and it now works. My question now is how important that heatsink is.
Uhh...
The giant heatsink for the main GPU chip? = very
The top heatsink for memory chips = ok if it has a fan blowing on the memory chips
The vertical heatsink for the VRM? = very
Backplate? = Not that much (assuming it's not critical here)

Pictures please.
 

OkayRene

Member
For those of you who install SSDs + platter HDDs in your systems, how do you delegate storage between the two? Are the HDDs strictly for backup?

Looking for optimal setup tips.
 

kuYuri

Member
Yay, new thread!

DICE has always been good with optimizations, so I expect BF1 will be just as great on PC as their past games.
 

Dalius

Member
Nice, new thread!

I came home after being out for a bit to find my PC not sending any video out to my TV. I've tried different HDMI and DVI cables, tried using a different monitor - nothing. I put my old GPU in and it works! After doing a CMOS reset and putting the problem GPU back in, not only was I still not getting any video signal but now my ASUS motherboard is also displaying error code D6 on the LED (it was POSTing earlier before slotting the old GPU back in). This seems to mean that the motherboard can't see the GPU.

Anyone have any ideas about troubleshooting this, or is it RMA time?
 

Roybr

Member
Gaf, what's the best 3 mouses money can buy right now, except the g900. I have a palm grip and big hands. Thanks!
 
2015 had a nice run and all. Here we are in thread 2016.

What happened to the Smokey tier with the HEDT build?

For those of you who install SSDs + platter HDDs in your systems, how do you delegate storage between the two? Are the HDDs strictly for backup?

Looking for optimal setup tips.

The OS and all apps should be on the SSD. The games you play the most or which have the longest loading times should be directed to the SSD too.

Media and older games which load fast or games you rarely play can be on the HDD.

These days the minimum size SSD you should be considering is 512 GB. If you are one of those people who plays lots of games all at once, a 1 TB SSD is a nice investment.
 
For those of you who install SSDs + platter HDDs in your systems, how do you delegate storage between the two? Are the HDDs strictly for backup?

Looking for optimal setup tips.

Porn probably doesn't need the power of SSD. Not sure about 4K porn though.

SSDs are now big enough that you don't even need in HDD for backup. I have a 2TB HDD and barely filled half of it. 1TB SSD prices are cheaper by the day.
 

Dmax3901

Member
Uhh...
The giant heatsink for the main GPU chip? = very
The top heatsink for memory chips = ok if it has a fan blowing on the memory chips
The vertical heatsink for the VRM? = very
Backplate? = Not that much (assuming it's not critical here)

Pictures please.

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So before on top there was a black heatsink, now it's just the screws (ignore the massive beige CPU cooler).

Also sorry for the quality, my phone is terrible.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Looks like the backplate might have been shorting something. Just make sure the screws aren't going to be touching anything.
For those of you who install SSDs + platter HDDs in your systems, how do you delegate storage between the two? Are the HDDs strictly for backup?

Looking for optimal setup tips.
OS and applications on SSD. Big games on HDD, common games on SSD (Use SteamTool / SteamMover/ etc.)
Backup of SSD on HDD and External if possible.
Nice, new thread!

I came home after being out for a bit to find my PC not sending any video out to my TV. I've tried different HDMI and DVI cables, tried using a different monitor - nothing. I put my old GPU in and it works! After doing a CMOS reset and putting the problem GPU back in, not only was I still not getting any video signal but now my ASUS motherboard is also displaying error code D6 on the LED (it was POSTing earlier before slotting the old GPU back in). This seems to mean that the motherboard can't see the GPU.

Anyone have any ideas about troubleshooting this, or is it RMA time?
Can try cleaning the pins, checking power connection, and using the lower PCI-E slot if you have one. Then test on another system, but sounds like RMA.
2015 had a nice run and all. Here we are in thread 2016.

What happened to the Smokey tier with the HEDT build?
I felt it had limited uses so decided to use the space to make people aware of upcoming parts (someone mentioned this in a PM). Thought it was better use of the space.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
For those of you who install SSDs + platter HDDs in your systems, how do you delegate storage between the two? Are the HDDs strictly for backup?

Looking for optimal setup tips.

Back when I had a 120GB SSD I had to manage space, and only put Windows and some of my applications on the SSD.

Now I have 1TB and just use it for everything except media - music, pictures, videos, and documents (just because they were already with the other 3).



Oh, and I did get a Soundblaster Z instead of a dedicated entry level external headphone amp and DAC to go with my DT990s I am getting tomorrow. It's probably not as good of a solution, but for my needs it's a much more simple one. Should be able to run my sound from the TV's digital output to the sound card's input (a key factor in my decision to buy it) and be able to listen to anything through it without fumbling with switches and stuff.

Hopefully I didn't fuck up by buying that, but most of what I've read seems positive. Didn't even think to post here while I was considering it since I was mostly thinking about sound setup and not PC.
 

hohoXD123

Member
Is there any reason 32GB RAM is being recommended for the enthusiast build now? Always thought it was pointless for gaming.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Just ask away
Is there any reason 32GB RAM is being recommended for the enthusiast build now? Always thought it was pointless for gaming.
It's so cheap now! And really, you don't have to get it, columns are always meant to be moved around.
I dont wanna change it nowwwww
I thought about adding an extra speed 16GB kit though, but >3200 most of them are 4x4GB right now so I wasn't sure if I wanted to and the 3000Mhz kits are still cheap and 2x8GB so it allows for expansion.
 

Blackage

Member
Already that time for a new thread? Here's to 4K/60FPS on Ultra with 1 GPU in the next year or two!(Hopefulyl!)
 

K' Dash

Member
Just ask away

It's so cheap now! And really, you don't have to get it, columns are always meant to be moved around.
I dont wanna change it nowwwww
I thought about adding an extra speed 16GB kit though, but >3200 most of them are 4x4GB right now so I wasn't sure if I wanted to and the 3000Mhz kits are still cheap and 2x8GB so it allows for expansion.

Thanks for the update man, I just bought the parts to build my Second gaming PC using all the info from this thread.
 

ISee

Member
Looking to make the switch to a 1080 from a 780 this year. I guess my 3570@ 4.5 will be fine as is?

I don't think so. Especially considering the 1080. It's the best GPU out there and combining a premium high end graphics card with a mid class CPU from 2012 isn't worth it and a cheaper GPU would make more sense if you really don't want to get a new CPU.
Granted you'd still get an improved performance going from the 780 to the 1080 but by far not what you'd expect.
That said I understand that having to exchange both is extremely pricey and a bit disappointing.

May I also link you to one of many posts I did about 'this problematic', as I don't want to spam this thread again with pictures, links and videos.. and maybe it'll help you to make a decision ( the response to drotahorror) .

Edit:
The ~500$ build is already good (in regards to price/performance) and when polaris 10 and the radeon 470 does what some expect it to do (be around 380x levels of perfromance but still just cost around 170$) than it might even rival the PS4 Neo in 3d party games (I'm just speculating).
 

pa22word

Member
meh...I think it's time to get rid of my old i7 960 and just do a total rebuild.

What's the word on broadwell e? Those 6850k specs I saw a month or two ago perked my ears up.
 

ncslamm

Member
Building my first gaming pc Thursday. I've got an i5 6600k, gtx 970, gigabyte ga-z170x gaming 7, and 16GB corsair vengeance lpx. Should I try overclocking after I've got everything setup or just do it some other time? I'm only going to be playing overwatch on it for now and I would like to play 1080p 144hz if possible.
 
Finally a new thread although a lot will need updates once Polaris and 1060/1050s are out.



Building my first gaming pc Thursday. I've got an i5 6600k, gtx 970, gigabyte ga-z170x gaming 7, and 16GB corsair vengeance lpx. Should I try overclocking after I've got everything setup or just do it some other time? I'm only going to be playing overwatch on it for now and I would like to play 1080p 144hz if possible.

Not sure about Overwatch but if you are aiming for high refresh, overclocking is the best way to help you achieve that in a lot of games. (where the CPU becomes the limiting factor to an extent) Make sure you are using an aftermarket cooler though.
 
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