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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

madjackal

Member
Is gaming mode really necessary for gaming? I just got a new 4k receiver, so I would have to turn game mode on and off constantly, since everything is now on one input on the TV itself.

I just tried a match of call of duty though and didn't seem to notice any difference. Is there something that isn't apparent?

I find the game mode is a noticeable difference but this is a great question. How would one hook up the consoles and a cable box through a receiver without having to change to game mode every time?
 
Is gaming mode really necessary for gaming? I just got a new 4k receiver, so I would have to turn game mode on and off constantly, since everything is now on one input on the TV itself.

I just tried a match of call of duty though and didn't seem to notice any difference. Is there something that isn't apparent?

Well.... The total amount of input lag makes a lot difference.

I just can't stand input lag over 30 ms. The controls start to feel off. Just like terrible frame times or frame pacings.
 
I find the game mode is a noticeable difference but this is a great question. How would one hook up the consoles and a cable box through a receiver without having to change to game mode every time?

Game mode disables smooth motion, noise reduction and other post processing.
If you're not using that, you can just stay in Game mode all the time. Works well for me.
 

j-wood

Member
I find the game mode is a noticeable difference but this is a great question. How would one hook up the consoles and a cable box through a receiver without having to change to game mode every time?

I'll tell you. You can't.

The TV saves your settings on a per input basis. Using a receiver, everything goes technically on one input on the TV itself. So you either have to leave game mode on all the time, or turn game mode on/off each time, or just not use it.

But is there a game I would notice it in moreso than call of duty? Input lag is a delayed response from when I move a stick to what I see that on the tv right? Because everything seems instant to me.
 

legbone

Member
Game mode disables smooth motion, noise reduction and other post processing.
If you're not using that, you can just stay in Game mode all the time. Works well for me.

i'll be damned. thanks for the info. i don't run most of the post processing gimmicks anyways. and i don't really play fighters or music games (guitar hero or rock band) much anymore. think i'm going to flip it over to movie mode (my normal mode) so i don't have to switch it each time i switch what i'm doing (watching netflix for example). i don't know why i didn't think of that myself. the only post processing i really use is smart led on low (which i use in gaming mode anyway at the moment). i'm such an idiot sometimes. now that you told me this it makes perfect sense.
 

j-wood

Member
i'll be damned. thanks for the info. i don't run most of the post processing gimmicks anyways. and i don't really play fighters or music games (guitar hero or rock band) much anymore. think i'm going to flip it over to movie mode (my normal mode) so i don't have to switch it each time i switch what i'm doing (watching netflix for example). i don't know why i didn't think of that myself. the only post processing i really use is smart led on low (which i use in gaming mode anyway at the moment). i'm such an idiot sometimes. now that you told me this it makes perfect sense.

That brings me back to my original point though. If all game mode does is disable those settings, and you already have them disabled for normal use...doesn't that make it pointless?

The only way I could see using it is if you are using a receiver, and everything is going through one input on the tv, and you ARE using the smooth motion and all that jazz. Change to game mode instead of having to change multiple settings. But if you have all that disabled anyways...
 

Aske

Member
i'll be damned. thanks for the info. i don't run most of the post processing gimmicks anyways. and i don't really play fighters or music games (guitar hero or rock band) much anymore. think i'm going to flip it over to movie mode (my normal mode) so i don't have to switch it each time i switch what i'm doing (watching netflix for example). i don't know why i didn't think of that myself. the only post processing i really use is smart led on low (which i use in gaming mode anyway at the moment). i'm such an idiot sometimes. now that you told me this it makes perfect sense.

That brings me back to my original point though. If all game mode does is disable those settings, and you already have them disabled for normal use...doesn't that make it pointless?

The only way I could see using it is if you are using a receiver, and everything is going through one input on the tv, and you ARE using the smooth motion and all that jazz. Change to game mode instead of having to change multiple settings. But if you have all that disabled anyways...

There's debate about whether it's that simple. Yes, Game Mode locks out those options which you probably have turned off anyway; but Rtings test for lag with the global settings they've applied to the TV (they tell you what they change for games, if anything), and they measured vastly different numbers.

That being said, if lag doesn't bother you, it's not going to be an issue for you. Some people find their experience ruined by it: for them, there's a Game setting. If your experience isn't less pleasant in Movie mode, there's no need to change it. Your experience is the only valid metric in this case - it's not like choosing contrast settings which crush whites, for example.

Also, try and do a sharpness test on your TVs. I found, surprisingly, that mine should be set to 20, and plenty of others in this thread concur that it should be significantly more than zero for a baseline, unsoftened picture.
 
There's debate about whether it's that simple. Yes, Game Mode locks out those options which you probably have turned off anyway; but Rtings test for lag with the global settings they've applied to the TV (they tell you what they change for games, if anything), and they measured vastly different numbers.

That being said, if lag doesn't bother you, it's not going to be an issue for you. Some people find their experience ruined by it: for them, there's a Game setting. If your experience isn't less pleasant in Movie mode, there's no need to change it. Your experience is the only valid metric in this case - it's not like choosing contrast settings which crush whites, for example.

Also, try and do a sharpness test on your TVs. I found, surprisingly, that mine should be set to 20, and plenty of others in this thread concur that it should be significantly more than zero for a baseline, unsoftened picture.

Yup. I kept mine at 10.
 
My replacement KS8000 arrived and I'm happy to say that there are no noticeable flaws like my previous set. I picked up a 4K bluray 6 pack and Independence Day looks amazing. It's like watching it for the first time again. Highly recommended.
 

legbone

Member
i did a sharpness test on mine with dve hd basics disc. it's for 1080p as mentioned earlier but zero looked sharpest by far with no ill effects. just a mile bump would cause jaggies or whatever you call them.

The entire second season. All interior scenes are lit by natural light sources and candles. No additional light sources. Pretty impressive if you ask me.

gonna check this out. thanks.
 

Nick

Junior Member
It seems like the 65" KS8000 got an official price drop in the last few days? If so, I'm definitely going to pick it up now.
 

Aske

Member
i did a sharpness test on mine with dve hd basics disc. it's for 1080p as mentioned earlier but zero looked sharpest by far with no ill effects. just a mile bump would cause jaggies or whatever you call them.

I don't know what to tell you: you're not alone in finding that result. But I only see ringing at 22, and anything below 20 is clearly too soft. There was no clear consensus when we discussed this earlier in the thread, either. The idea that individual panels could be that different is absurd, but while I don't doubt your ability to perceive ringing for a second, my picture blurs with sharpness set to 0. So the best advice is for everyone to test their own sharpness levels and see for themselves.

For anyone not sure how to do this, get a test image with a bunch of nice, clear, straight lines. Sit as close as you can to the screen, turn sharpness to max, and reduce it until all ringing (the artifacts the setting adds to the picture to create over-sharpened images) disappears. The lines should be crisp and completely free of artifacts. However if they start to blur, you've reduced it too much: now your TV is softening the picture like the Vaseline filter some SD games apply to make them look less pixelated on HDTVs.
 

legbone

Member
I don't know what to tell you: you're not alone in finding that result. But I only see ringing at 22, and anything below 20 is clearly too soft. There was no clear consensus when we discussed this earlier in the thread, either. The idea that individual panels could be that different is absurd, but while I don't doubt your ability to perceive ringing for a second, my picture blurs with sharpness set to 0. So the best advice is for everyone to test their own sharpness levels and see for themselves.

For anyone not sure how to do this, get a test image with a bunch of nice, clear, straight lines. Sit as close as you can to the screen, turn sharpness to max, and reduce it until all ringing (the artifacts the setting adds to the picture to create over-sharpened images) disappears. The lines should be crisp and completely free of artifacts. However if they start to blur, you've reduced it too much: now your TV is softening the picture like the Vaseline filter some SD games apply to make them look less pixelated on HDTVs.

i undestand completely. it's going to vary. i was just throwing in my results for an example. didn't mean to imply what you were saying was wrong. i apologize for not being more clear. nothing is in stone with sets. so many things can vary and some are dependent upon room variation (not sharpness, in sharpness's case it may be my poor old 42 year old eyesight). for example, my colors were dead solid perfect out of the box. i'm sure there are people that may have to adjust theirs a smidge (i think my previous samsung needed a couple clicks into the green on the green/red slider). everyone should check their own.

edit: and thanks, i couldn't think of the word "ringing" for the life of me. probably because when i think of things visual in nature, ringing isn't the first word that comes to mind. lol.

edit2: and now due to my ocd nature with electronics, i'm throwing in the disc and loading up the pattern. i'll edit again with second results.

edit 3: ok, after checking at three different distances with the overscan pattern, i notice the ringing to go away at 5 when backing down from 100. and i really can't tell the difference between 0 to 5 so i'm good as long as i'm in that range. just to err on the side of caution i'm going to go ahead and leave it at 5 since it is the lowest setting where the ringing disappears.
 

Aske

Member
i undestand completely. it's going to vary. i was just throwing in my results for an example. didn't mean to imply what you were saying was wrong.

No apology necessary, I didn't take it that way at all! I should have phrased my response better - I just find such vastly different results utterly mystifying. It's not unusual for 'true zero' sharpness (no sharpening or softening) to have a high numerical value; say the midpoint on the scale. But some of us are getting really whacky and different results, which doesn't make sense. Unlike tweaking a colour setting, which is about fine tuning your specific panel, sharpness is much more objective. Either you're telling the display to futz with the picture, or you're telling it to leave it alone. Only Samsung know whether true zero is at 0, 20, 30...but it shouldn't be rocket science for the rest of us to figure it out. And yet, here we are!
 

legbone

Member
oh, and btw, for the poster above (sorry don't remember your name now) that didn't notice the difference between sdr and hdr. i just did a back to back with daredevil on the ps4 pro's netflix app (doesn't do hdr btw) and the netflix app in the smart hub and there is a huge difference. one way to check if hdr is working is pull up the smart hub menu while in a hdr source. the damn thing will blind you. wish there was a way to turn down it's brightness.

oh, and i'm tired of trying to figure out what app (smart hub, xbox one s, or ps4 pro) to use to get the best results. if im not mistaken the smart hub gave me hdr on daredevil but not 4k. the sony app gave me 4k but not hdr. can't we have one universal netflix app? also, vudu is a mess. they have the xbox one s listed as a supported device to view rentals in 4k. well, no one told my app because there is no 4k to be found on the damn thing. i have found the smart hub seems to be your safest bet (well, unless you can't see the difference between sdr and hdr and want to watch daredevil, then use the ps4 app for the 4k, wtf?).

and no prob aske. it's all good. thanks again for the word ringing and getting me to check the sharpness on my set. sure enough, 5 seems to be the safest bet. and i agree, it's weird. i'm chalking it up to old man eyes on my end. because you are right, sharpness is usually objective. that's why i just quickly ran the test the first time, said "yep, zero looks great" and then set it and forgot it.

edit: and with that my friends, i'm going to watch an episode of the grand tour in glorious hdr (hoping for a sunny day in episode 3) and then hit the sack. happy viewing/and or calibrating for my ocd friends.
 

dmann

Member
So I picked up a 55KS8000 from Best Buy this evening due to the sale and spent all evening setting the TV up and troubleshooting it. I think I may have gotten a dud, I keep getting a "Check that the One Connect is connected to the TV." message on screen although both ends of the cable are securely connected to the TV and to the box. I've unplugged the cables and replugged it several times. I have my PS4 Pro and cable box connected to HDMI 1 & 2 and same message. Also, my remote is non-responsive... the voice button works but every other button besides the power button is either slow to respond or doesn't do anything. Any ideas? or should I just take the set back and exchange it.


just grabbed and set up a 65KS8000 for $1079 off a Fry's price match.

How'd you get a 65" for that price? Fry's website is showing $1,497.99??
 

ss_lemonade

Member
That brings me back to my original point though. If all game mode does is disable those settings, and you already have them disabled for normal use...doesn't that make it pointless?
I haven't tested this with my ks9000, but on my sony w900a, there is still a significant input lag difference between game mode and non-game mode with every post processing option disabled. So on my sony TV, game mode is doing more than just disabling and locking these options out
 

Aske

Member
So I picked up a 55KS8000 from Best Buy this evening due to the sale and spent all evening setting the TV up and troubleshooting it. I think I may have gotten a dud, I keep getting a "Check that the One Connect is connected to the TV." message on screen although both ends of the cable are securely connected to the TV and to the box. I've unplugged the cables and replugged it several times. I have my PS4 Pro and cable box connected to HDMI 1 & 2 and same message. Also, my remote is non-responsive... the voice button works but every other button besides the power button is either slow to respond or doesn't do anything. Any ideas? or should I just take the set back and exchange it.

I had the same issue when I first set up my TV. It was almost like the port on the back of the TV needed to be worked in, I think. I was resigned to send it back, but then it just...worked. And has worked ever since, no matter how much I mess with it. That's not to say yours is fine, but persevere a bit before you give up.

My remote's been a little odd too: maybe three times since I got the TV on Black Friday, it played dead when I tried to turn on the TV. Opening the back and moving the batteries always fixes the issue (switching them out did not). Easy enough to replace if it dies, and you can always use the Smart View app instead (Android and iOS), but the remote definitely feels cheaper than it should.
 
How'd you get a 65" for that price? Fry's website is showing $1,497.99??

Sounds like he got Fry to price match the Samsung EPP pricing for the 65" KS8000 since $1079.99 was what it was going for on there and apparently still is.

g0othyC.jpg


Bottom middle is the 65" KS8000 for $1079. My KS9000 went up in price slightly. I managed to nab it at $1475.
 
I tried to get Best Buy to match the Samsung EPP price; but no dice as you have to login to an account to see that price. I ended up just ordering through Samsung, but its backordered for who knows how long :(

Oh well, still worth saving $420.
 

dmann

Member
I had the same issue when I first set up my TV. It was almost like the port on the back of the TV needed to be worked in, I think. I was resigned to send it back, but then it just...worked. And has worked ever since, no matter how much I mess with it. That's not to say yours is fine, but persevere a bit before you give up.

My remote's been a little odd too: maybe three times since I got the TV on Black Friday, it played dead when I tried to turn on the TV. Opening the back and moving the batteries always fixes the issue (switching them out did not). Easy enough to replace if it dies, and you can always use the Smart View app instead (Android and iOS), but the remote definitely feels cheaper than it should.

So I tried what you suggested and played around with the cable of the One Connect for about an hour this morning and still getting the same message on screen. Also, I tried unplugging the tv. My remote is still non-responsive (swapped out the batteries); downloaded the phone app and I can't even click 'Allow' on the tv screen to accept the pairing to my iphone. I think I am just going to pack it back up and exchange it later this evening when I get off work. Such a hassle...


Sounds like he got Fry to price match the Samsung EPP pricing for the 65" KS8000 since $1079.99 was what it was going for on there and apparently still is.

Bottom middle is the 65" KS8000 for $1079. My KS9000 went up in price slightly. I managed to nab it at $1475.

Wow, that's a good deal!!!
 

legbone

Member
ok, the third episode of the grand tour was amazing last night. there were actual sunny days in their trip to italy. beautiful. then they went to an art gallery. they showed a closeup of a painting (sorry, don't know the name, didn't do well in art appreciation in college) and i swear it was like i could reach out and touch it and feel the brush strokes they were so visible. the colors were so vibrant it really was like i was in the room with the painting. this tv continues to amaze me.

and i truly feel for the folks that are having problems with their sets or can't notice the difference between sdr and hdr content. you are missing out on the experience. keep trying to get a good set and if you still can't notice the difference between sdr and hdr, i don't know what to tell you (get an oled maybe, i dunno).

a little bad news though. i woke up this morning and was greeted with a remote that has decided to obey me part of the time. i spun the batteries (thanks again aske, you are a blessing to have around in this thread) and all is well. good thing that's an easy fix if it goes south (as aske has stated).
 
ok, the third episode of the grand tour was amazing last night. there were actual sunny days in their trip to italy. beautiful. then they went to an art gallery. they showed a closeup of a painting (sorry, don't know the name, didn't do well in art appreciation in college) and i swear it was like i could reach out and touch it and feel the brush strokes they were so visible. the colors were so vibrant it really was like i was in the room with the painting. this tv continues to amaze me.

and i truly feel for the folks that are having problems with their sets or can't notice the difference between sdr and hdr content. you are missing out on the experience. keep trying to get a good set and if you still can't notice the difference between sdr and hdr, i don't know what to tell you (get an oled maybe, i dunno).

a little bad news though. i woke up this morning and was greeted with a remote that has decided to obey me part of the time. i spun the batteries (thanks again aske, you are a blessing to have around in this thread) and all is well. good thing that's an easy fix if it goes south (as aske has stated).

Yup. On a sunny day (in the show I mean) I almost feel like getting my sunglasses to watch the damn thing, it's so bright! Lol
 

d.cay

Neo Member
and i truly feel for the folks that are having problems with their sets or can't notice the difference between sdr and hdr content. you are missing out on the experience. keep trying to get a good set and if you still can't notice the difference between sdr and hdr, i don't know what to tell you (get an oled maybe, i dunno).

Thank you, bro! Today I've tested Ratchet & Clank with different HDMI-cables - same results. I came to a conclusion though: the HDR-picture has a much more realistic, grounded look and I begin to like it. I've read something interesting on the topic, let me quote from reddit:


neogohan said:
HDR, by comparison, gives you a larger range. This does not mean it'll super-saturate like what you see with RGB range mismatching. It is simply giving a large dynamic range of colors and contrast, enhancing the detail in the brights and darks, reducing color banding, and allowing for more colors to be displayed. The picture should appear more lifelike and clear, not more artificially saturated and comic-booky. This can seem "washed out", but only if your eyes are used to the crushed range seen in the mismatched SDR + full RGB.

(source: https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4Pro/comments/5fiwf7/the_last_of_us_looks_worse_in_hdr_mode/ )

I think I'll give the seemingly washed-out look of HDR in gaming a shot, seems that my eyes have to adjust to the better picture with time. Maybe this is harder for me since the bright-color-look in SDR-mode seems so fitting for a pixar-ish kind of game Ratchet & Clank is. Did anyone else experience something similar with Ratchet & Clank, while enjoying HDR-Videos without having to getting used to? And also: is there any kind of video footage out there where I can watch some Ratchet gameplay in HDR?
 

iMax

Member
It's yout TV then. Because the show is in HDR and it's even shown on Amazon Prime's screen. :p


Fuuuuuu! Stranger Things and Jessica Jones re-watch.

old firmware? I'm on 1154 and it pops up to say HDR is enabled in the Amazon app. didn't really see other hdr enabled content in Canada though, unfortunately

Yeah, the first episode is HDR for me but the subsequent ones aren't. Really, really odd.
 

Hwoar

Member
I think I'll give the seemingly washed-out look of HDR in gaming a shot, seems that my eyes have to adjust to the better picture with time. Maybe this is harder for me since the bright-color-look in SDR-mode seems so fitting for a pixar-ish kind of game Ratchet & Clank is. Did anyone else experience something similar with Ratchet & Clank, while enjoying HDR-Videos without having to getting used to?

At first I wasn't sure if HDR was better in Ratchet. But then I sorted some settings and learned what to look for and I find it alot better in HDR.

see this
post
 
For my TWC digital box should I Have HDR set to ON..I did it today but didnt notice any difference, but was told to turn on ALL HDR to ON so figured I would do it since Im setting up my PS4 PRO tomorrow
 
For my TWC digital box should I Have HDR set to ON..I did it today but didnt notice any difference, but was told to turn on ALL HDR to ON so figured I would do it since Im setting up my PS4 PRO tomorrow

You don't turn HDR on, it turns on by default. If you are refering to HDR+, which adds HDR to non HDR content, this is up to you. But HDR+ should def be off for games IMO.

At first I wasn't sure if HDR was better in Ratchet. But then I sorted some settings and learned what to look for and I find it alot better in HDR.

see this
post

This is quoting my question, and I confirm that after getting used to HDR content, I can't go back to non HDR on games that have HDR.
 
You don't turn HDR on, it turns on by default. If you are refering to HDR+, which adds HDR to non HDR content, this is up to you. But HDR+ should def be off for games IMO.



This is quoting my question, and I confirm that after getting used to HDR content, I can't go back to non HDR on games that have HDR.

Yeah Im talking about when you go to picture setting(Expert setting) and you go to UHD Color all of the HDR was set to OFF it has four ports of course and they were all set to OFF so for the twc cable box I turned the first HDMI port ON
Also I am NOT using picture mode as GAME MODE its currently on MOVIE MODE not sure if that is a factor here
 

The Beard

Member
That brings me back to my original point though. If all game mode does is disable those settings, and you already have them disabled for normal use...doesn't that make it pointless?

The only way I could see using it is if you are using a receiver, and everything is going through one input on the tv, and you ARE using the smooth motion and all that jazz. Change to game mode instead of having to change multiple settings. But if you have all that disabled anyways...

Game Mode does more than just automatically disable the things that you could disable yourself manually. It puts the panel in a bare bones state which can't be achieved in any other mode.

Even when you manually turn off all the processing extras, your TV is still doing some lag-inducing processing when not in Game Mode.
 

j-wood

Member
Game Mode does more than just automatically disable the things that you could disable yourself manually. It puts the panel in a bare bones state which can't be achieved in any other mode.

Even when you manually turn off all the processing extras, your TV is still doing some lag-inducing processing when not in Game Mode.

But if I'm not noticing any input lag (which again is just a delay from when I do something on the controller to it translating to the screen right?) then i'm not missing anything by not turning on game mode.

Plus I'll get the auto backlight feature for hdr stuff back haha.
 

Simbo

Neo Member
Does anyone have an Xbox One S paired with this set and play Destiny?

In the last room of the Darkblade strike I get horrendous colour banding when the shadows transition to light. At points my whole screen is filled with bands. It looks horrible. I also get the same effect in Gears of War 4 in similar scenarios.....night sky or shadows show banding when moving to lighter colours.

If anyone could test with Destiny that would be great!
 
Maybe I missed it (Im not in front of my TV right now) but is there anyway to have game mode and HDR on at the same time?

Yes as long as HDMI UHD COLOUR is turned on for the input you are using then HDR will work in game mode, just remember to up the backlight to 20, set colour space to auto and smart led to high (the TV doesn't change them automatically in game mode when it detects an HDR signal)
 

The Beard

Member
But if I'm not noticing any input lag (which again is just a delay from when I do something on the controller to it translating to the screen right?) then i'm not missing anything by not turning on game mode.

Plus I'll get the auto backlight feature for hdr stuff back haha.

Yeah, that's what input lag is. If it's not affecting you then there's no sense in worrying about it.

I think there's only a tiny percentage of people that are as sensitive to input lag as they claim. 100+ms is a lot though lol.
 
But if I'm not noticing any input lag (which again is just a delay from when I do something on the controller to it translating to the screen right?) then i'm not missing anything by not turning on game mode.

Plus I'll get the auto backlight feature for hdr stuff back haha.

I am surprised there are so many folks who can't tell the difference in input lag with game mode on/off. Just going from a Vizio with 34ms lag in game mode to the KS8000 with 21ms lag in game mode is noticeable to me. I can't imagine playing ANY games with lag higher than ~50ms, even just navigating menus would be awful.

Unrelated, have you guys noticed that if you are playing an HDR game on the Pro, anything related to the OS is particularly dim? It's most obvious when notifications pop up because you can see the whole HDR image underneath it, which is normal brightness, but the notification is obviously much dimmer. If you go to the dashboard while the HDR game is running, everything is much dimmer than normal there as well. If you quit the HDR game the dashboard goes back to normal. It's like the OS itself wasn't optimized for HDR. Doesn't really affect anything but I find it to be kind of weird.
 
What is the measurement of input lag with game mode off and then with it on on this tv?

This is the only data I know of, taken from rtings. I really wish they had a 4k @ 60Hz Outside Game Mode, but they don't.

1080p @ 60Hz: 20.9 ms
1080p With Interpolation: 118.9 ms
1080p @ 60Hz Outside Game Mode: 113.5 ms
1080p @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4: 37.8 ms
4k @ 60Hz: 22.7 ms
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4: 37.4 ms
4k @ 60Hz + HDR: 21.1 ms
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR: 37.6 ms
 
i was playing FF15 just now and suddenly the screen went black, music stayed, then screen came back after a few seconds. top displayed "an HDR video is playing". so i carried on and its done it 2 more times now..

is this a common issue or is my tv about to break :(
 
i was playing FF15 just now and suddenly the screen went black, music stayed, then screen came back after a few seconds. top displayed "an HDR video is playing". so i carried on and its done it 2 more times now..

is this a common issue or is my tv about to break :(

I would think HDMI cable issue. I had behavior like that (so have others) when using a 6 foot cable. I haven't had any issues since switching to a 3-footer.
 
i was playing FF15 just now and suddenly the screen went black, music stayed, then screen came back after a few seconds. top displayed "an HDR video is playing". so i carried on and its done it 2 more times now..

is this a common issue or is my tv about to break :(

Check your HDMI cable. All of them need to be up to latest spec, or there's not enough bandwidth and the TV will try to switch display modes back an forth.
 
I would think HDMI cable issue. I had behavior like that (so have others) when using a 6 foot cable. I haven't had any issues since switching to a 3-footer.

using the cable that came with PS4 pro. not had problems the last 2 weeks... only thing that changed is i changed to 1154 firmware on the tv.
 
using the cable that came with PS4 pro. not had problems the last 2 weeks... only thing that changed is i changed to 1154 firmware on the tv.

I've never had so much trouble with HDMI cables as I have with this TV. It really wants a perfect cable to get 4k HDR working. Sounds crazy I know, but maybe if the cable is just a little out of spec, and updating the firmware changed the handshaking just a little bit, bam, problems. It's that finicky.
 
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