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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

Smokey

Member
But you can get a 65" B7 for about 1700 if you have credit card price match. Not sure if that would be worth it to you though

Didn't know that. I'm still cheaper by $200 though, so I'll save the trouble. But that's good to know for the future, thanks.


Pro-tip, you can get a Squaretrade warranty from Costco really cheap.

https://www.costco.com/.product.11680336.html

Adds 3 years for $90.

Not sure how it compares to Geek Squad, but FYI..


Oh wow. It's definitely not $90, although the Magnolia rep told me it's based off the purchase price of the TV you got it for and not MSRP. Still don't think it's this cheap. Thanks!
 
I hate asking this, because I'm sure some of you feel like you've answered the same questions over and over and over...

But I'm trying out HDR via PC with Nex Machina - and it looks super dull and terrible. My TV switches to HDR, but the image is crap. In every HDR mode, Standard/Game

Is there a PC setting I need to mess with?
 
I hate asking this, because I'm sure some of you feel like you've answered the same questions over and over and over...

But I'm trying out HDR via PC with Nex Machina - and it looks super dull and terrible. My TV switches to HDR, but the image is crap. In every HDR mode, Standard/Game

Is there a PC setting I need to mess with?

what tv set? what NV drivers?
 

Mrbob

Member
I hate asking this, because I'm sure some of you feel like you've answered the same questions over and over and over...

But I'm trying out HDR via PC with Nex Machina - and it looks super dull and terrible. My TV switches to HDR, but the image is crap. In every HDR mode, Standard/Game

Is there a PC setting I need to mess with?
I'm pretty sure one of the windows updates screwed this up. I have this issue now too with the game in HDR. Before it was a lot brighter, now it's super dull. HDR on pc is a mess.
 
Ah, sorry - I stupidly assumed everyone posting here has the 2017 LG OLED lol.

C7

Newest drivers, whatever they are. I keep the beta drivers up to date.

Yeah, same TV here.

I think I remember HDR being kind of dim on Nex Machina also.

Try out the Forza 7 windows demo (and make sure you do the proper adjustments in the picture options of the game itself related to HDR). Specifically the desert race looked plenty bright and colorful in HDR.

If you still think that's dim, we can keep diagnosing. Might just be that game though.

I hope PC HDR gets its shit together, sooner rather than later.

Same, but I'm not holding my breath =/
 

Ashhong

Member
How? Is this price matching through one of the less reputable online sites?

Yes and it's 100% legit. I got my $500 refund in about a week.

Beachcamera has the 65" for 2200 right now, and eBuyusa has it for 1500 I believe. Most cards only do $500 max per item, so voila, $1700
 

ToD_

Member
Ah, sorry - I stupidly assumed everyone posting here has the 2017 LG OLED lol.

C7

Newest drivers, whatever they are. I keep the beta drivers up to date.

I actually had the same problem with Nex Machina on a C7. It worked initially when switching fullscreen to borderless window mode. I tried it again at a later time, however, and it was back to being dull regardless of what mode was used. I can only assume it is a driver issue. HDR on the PC is still very much in its infancy.
 

aaaaa0

Member
120hz can mean improved motion and even reduced input lag.

I mean, 120hz isn't new to TVs. It's been a thing for a long time and for good reason.

120 hz would be great for judder prevention.

Something like an Apple TV or HTPC could output at 4k 120 hz, updating the UI every other frame (for 60 hz UI animation smothness), and then playing 24 hz movies by updating every fifth frame -- resulting in no judder because the combined output is being sent at 120 hz over HDMI 2.1.
.
 

Smokey

Member
So I did the downgrade on my B6.

[04.30.77]
1. Apply the HDR Game mode.

[04.31.10]
1. Add the HDR Game mode to improve the input lag
2. Improve the video tearing issue in HDR 4K input and Game mode setting

[04.31.15]
1. Improve the Judder issue in 60hz motion.

[04.31.20]
1. Improve the TV reboot issue while playing MLB CP contents.

[05.30.03]
1. Added notification pop up for when app is no longer supported
2. Change in background image of no signal screen
3. Change in Amazon HDR mode

Went from 04.31.20 down to 04.31.10. There's still a noticeable HDR brightness difference between Bright. Actually looks the same as before the downgrade. I'm guessing I need to try and go to 04.30.77?
 
Yeah, same TV here.

I think I remember HDR being kind of dim on Nex Machina also.

Try out the Forza 7 windows demo (and make sure you do the proper adjustments in the picture options of the game itself related to HDR). Specifically the desert race looked plenty bright and colorful in HDR.

If you still think that's dim, we can keep diagnosing. Might just be that game though.



Same, but I'm not holding my breath =/

I need to try the Forza 7 windows demo. I hope that looks amazing.

Just for the record, what nvidia settings should be used? RGB? 4:2:0? 4:2:2? 8 bit? 10 bit?

I've tried a bunch and haven't gotten Nex Machina to look good. Look awful. Super washed out and dim.
 

dsk1210

Member
So I did the downgrade on my B6.



Went from 04.31.20 down to 04.31.10. There's still a noticeable HDR brightness difference between Bright. Actually looks the same as before the downgrade. I'm guessing I need to try and go to 04.30.77?

It's 04.31.10 that I am on Smokey and the brightness is not too bad on HDR game mode.

What I will say though, some games I had to go in to advanced options and change the black level on the tv. It just seems as though HDR is not implemented well in some games, infact its like some games have been mastered with different gamma levels.

The Last Guardian was really dull in HDR and I had to change the black level, but Horizon was lovely at default.

I have gave up on PC HDR for the moment as it's all over the place thanks to Microsoft fucking it up.
 
So I did the downgrade on my B6.



Went from 04.31.20 down to 04.31.10. There's still a noticeable HDR brightness difference between Bright. Actually looks the same as before the downgrade. I'm guessing I need to try and go to 04.30.77?

I didn't even think the B6 had the dim issue creep up from the firmware. That's the C6/E6/G6.
 

nomis

Member
Anybody here with LG Oled (2017 model)+PS4 pro? What settings do you have for SDR games?

All Ps4 Pro picture settings Auto

Energy Saving Off

ISF Dark
OLED light 30
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Tint 0
Colour 50
Gamut Auto
Gamma BT.1866
Colour Temp Warm 2

All bullshit settings Off
Black Level Auto
 

Smokey

Member
It's 04.31.10 that I am on Smokey and the brightness is not too bad on HDR game mode.

What I will say though, some games I had to go in to advanced options and change the black level on the tv. It just seems as though HDR is not implemented well in some games, infact its like some games have been mastered with different gamma levels.

The Last Guardian was really dull in HDR and I had to change the black level, but Horizon was lovely at default.

I have gave up on PC HDR for the moment as it's all over the place thanks to Microsoft fucking it up.

There's such a big difference between it and HDR Bright. I can't get it to match that Brightness at all. Thought I was reading from folks that did it that they were able to get that same level type brightness in HDR Game Mode after the downgrade.
 
So I did the downgrade on my B6.



Went from 04.31.20 down to 04.31.10. There's still a noticeable HDR brightness difference between Bright. Actually looks the same as before the downgrade. I'm guessing I need to try and go to 04.30.77?

Don't install 04.30.77 because that firmware had screen tearing in HDR game mode.
 
I need to try the Forza 7 windows demo. I hope that looks amazing.

Just for the record, what nvidia settings should be used? RGB? 4:2:0? 4:2:2? 8 bit? 10 bit?

I've tried a bunch and haven't gotten Nex Machina to look good. Look awful. Super washed out and dim.

Leave on default NV settings or whatever hat bubble is that grays out the selectable options. It’s like RGB Limited for 8 bit and 422 for 10 bit
 

Smokey

Member
After playing 2k18, Madden, and Horizon the majority of the evening, I'm thinking my HDR Game Mode is fine, and I need to re-examine my expectations for HDR. I'm thinking it's all about punchier colors and brighter brights, when that's not necessarily the case. I switched back and forth between HDR Vivid and my HDR Game Mode for example, and while Vivid had the punchier colors and brightness, it lacked subtle detail in the overall picture. Everything was just 'pop' if that makes sense. I think Madden also has a poorly implemented HDR mode, and I was using it to compare as I though the field would and surround colors would be a good way to 'test'. I also changed the color gamut from Wide to Normal, which on the LGs, normal *is by default* wide. Pretty happy with the picture now tbh.

Horizon is dope at 4k+HDR.
 

Anarion07

Member
After playing 2k18, Madden, and Horizon the majority of the evening, I'm thinking my HDR Game Mode is fine, and I need to re-examine my expectations for HDR. I'm thinking it's all about punchier colors and brighter brights, when that's not necessarily the case. I switched back and forth between HDR Vivid and my HDR Game Mode for example, and while Vivid had the punchier colors and brightness, it lacked subtle detail in the overall picture. Everything was just 'pop' if that makes sense. I think Madden also has a poorly implemented HDR mode, and I was using it to compare as I though the field would and surround colors would be a good way to 'test'. I also changed the color gamut from Wide to Normal, which on the LGs, normal *is by default* wide. Pretty happy with the picture now tbh.

Horizon is dope at 4k+HDR.

Same for me, in the beginning.
Especially with Horizon.
But then I played for a while in HDR, switched back to SDR and everything looked cartoony. So much better in HDR
 
All Ps4 Pro picture settings Auto

Energy Saving Off

ISF Dark
OLED light 30
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Tint 0
Colour 50
Gamut Auto
Gamma BT.1866
Colour Temp Warm 2

All bullshit settings Off
Black Level Auto

Sharpness at 0, i never did understand that. It makes the picture softer than needed, plus default sharpness on LG OLED is 10 or 15. But at the end of the day it's all subjective. :)

After playing 2k18, Madden, and Horizon the majority of the evening, I'm thinking my HDR Game Mode is fine, and I need to re-examine my expectations for HDR. I'm thinking it's all about punchier colors and brighter brights, when that's not necessarily the case. I switched back and forth between HDR Vivid and my HDR Game Mode for example, and while Vivid had the punchier colors and brightness, it lacked subtle detail in the overall picture. Everything was just 'pop' if that makes sense. I think Madden also has a poorly implemented HDR mode, and I was using it to compare as I though the field would and surround colors would be a good way to 'test'. I also changed the color gamut from Wide to Normal, which on the LGs, normal *is by default* wide. Pretty happy with the picture now tbh.

Horizon is dope at 4k+HDR.

I'm still more a fan of HDR bright, i just like how it makes lighting more bright, more blinding i guess. The little blue lights on JD's armor in the Gears 4 main menu for example look great with that and very very tame with HDR game.

When you mention subtle details,what kind of things do you mean?
 

III-V

Member
Sharpness at 0, i never did understand that. It makes the picture softer than needed, plus default sharpness on LG OLED is 10 or 15. But at the end of the day it's all subjective. :)

Doesn't need to be subjective. You can grab a sharpness test pattern from here and set it properly yourself. There will be a point where moire and halos and other artifacts and such will be introduced into the image. Simply keep the value one notch below that and your set. Remember sharpness simply reduces the effective signal/noise ratio, as a small bit of noise can help our eyes distinguished separate objects from one another.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html
 
Per the HDR gaming discussion above, not sure who stated it in the last few pages, but it's worth repeating. Devs are just now starting to dig into what HDR gaming means. It's tough in the early going, because a game could look dim and there's nothing wrong with your setup or pipeline, it's just a fact of the way the game was "mastered" for HDR.

Like everything else, it'll take awhile for everyone to move up the learning curve on developing in HDR. To the comments above though, there are already some sterling examples imho. HZD looks great and UC4/LL look about as good in HDR as anything i've seen in HDR, period.

I'm sure it will come with time.
 
120 hz would be great for judder prevention.

Something like an Apple TV or HTPC could output at 4k 120 hz, updating the UI every other frame (for 60 hz UI animation smothness), and then playing 24 hz movies by updating every fifth frame -- resulting in no judder because the combined output is being sent at 120 hz over HDMI 2.1.
.
The only bad thing about waiting for a TV with HDMI 2.1 is that you'll have to buy a damn video card to go with it as well

Getting 120hz on a TV at resolutions above 1080p will be awesome!
 
Doesn't need to be subjective. You can grab a sharpness test pattern from here and set it properly yourself. There will be a point where moire and halos and other artifacts and such will be introduced into the image. Simply keep the value one notch below that and your set. Remember sharpness simply reduces the effective signal/noise ratio, as a small bit of noise can help our eyes distinguished separate objects from one another.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

Yup. I get noise at 1 Sharpness with 4k test patterns, so I set it down to 0. Forza Motorsport looks particularly jagged with Sharpness at 10. I'm confused why people think the setting is actually blurring the image.
 

Smokey

Member
I'm still more a fan of HDR bright, i just like how it makes lighting more bright, more blinding i guess. The little blue lights on JD's armor in the Gears 4 main menu for example look great with that and very very tame with HDR game.

When you mention subtle details,what kind of things do you mean?

Both look good in their own way, but on my set HDR Game Mode is closer to HDR Standard than HDR Bright. I was pretty much fixated on trying to get the brightness to match that of HDR Bright vs looking at the picture as a whole. By subtle for example at night in Horizon, the blue light on the machines despite the picture not being as bright as HDR Bright . The picture as a whole fits together and still looks good.
 

BumRush

Member
Per the HDR gaming discussion above, not sure who stated it in the last few pages, but it's worth repeating. Devs are just now starting to dig into what HDR gaming means. It's tough in the early going, because a game could look dim and there's nothing wrong with your setup or pipeline, it's just a fact of the way the game was "mastered" for HDR.

Like everything else, it'll take awhile for everyone to move up the learning curve on developing in HDR. To the comments above though, there are already some sterling examples imho. HZD looks great and UC4/LL look about as good in HDR as anything i've seen in HDR, period.

I'm sure it will come with time.

It's a great point. HDR in 2018 / 2019 - even with the same tech - should be much better as the comfort level rises.
 
Doesn't need to be subjective. You can grab a sharpness test pattern from here and set it properly yourself. There will be a point where moire and halos and other artifacts and such will be introduced into the image. Simply keep the value one notch below that and your set. Remember sharpness simply reduces the effective signal/noise ratio, as a small bit of noise can help our eyes distinguished separate objects from one another.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

I forgot to mention that I am not playing 4K games yet. In fact it's mostly 720p, 900p and 1080p games on Xbox One and with Sharpness at 0 things look too soft.

I'll be changing it once One X releases. So zero Sharpness for movies and shows too? Where can I find these 4K test patterns?

Both look good in their own way, but on my set HDR Game Mode is closer to HDR Standard than HDR Bright. I was pretty much fixated on trying to get the brightness to match that of HDR Bright vs looking at the picture as a whole. By subtle for example at night in Horizon, the blue light on the machines despite the picture not being as bright as HDR Bright . The picture as a whole fits together and still looks good.

Hmmm interesting. And you have dynamic contrast set to medium or high or not at all? Because with it off it's just so damn dark.
 

Smokey

Member
I forgot to mention that I am not playing 4K games yet. In fact it's mostly 720p, 900p and 1080p games on Xbox One and with Sharpness at 0 things look too soft.

I'll be changing it once One X releases. So zero Sharpness for movies and shows too? Where can I find these 4K test patterns?



Hmmm interesting. And you have dynamic contrast set to medium or high or not at all? Because with it off it's just so damn dark.

I think it may be at low. Keep in mind I downgraded to 04.31.10 last night, and I'm using PS4 Pro. Xbox's color output has been crushing blacks since day 1 so that could also be a factor.
 

Alfredo_V

Neo Member
All Ps4 Pro picture settings Auto

Energy Saving Off

ISF Dark
OLED light 30
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Tint 0
Colour 50
Gamut Auto
Gamma BT.1866
Colour Temp Warm 2

All bullshit settings Off
Black Level Auto

Seems good! Don't you feel effected of more input lag, not using game mode?

What's the correct black level settings for game mode? When using "low" it feels to dark, and "high" too washed out (in LG B7 settings). Trying out some settings/ other levels to adjust like gamma and in-game brightness and it's seems to shift with different games. My goal is to have a good general setting that works in most cases. Any tips here?
 

HooYaH

Member
Seems good! Don't you feel effected of more input lag, not using game mode?

What's the correct black level settings for game mode? When using "low" it feels to dark, and "high" too washed out (in LG B7 settings). Trying out some settings/ other levels to adjust like gamma and in-game brightness and it's seems to shift with different games. My goal is to have a good general setting that works in most cases. Any tips here?

If PS4 Pro is set to Auto, the TV Black level: SDR = High, HDR = Low.
 
All Ps4 Pro picture settings Auto

Energy Saving Off

ISF Dark
OLED light 30
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Tint 0
Colour 50
Gamut Auto
Gamma BT.1866
Colour Temp Warm 2

All bullshit settings Off
Black Level Auto

input lag is like 2x using ISF modes by the way...
 

MazeHaze

Banned
input lag is like 2x using ISF modes by the way...
It's more like 5x. Unless you're in PC mode.

I use ISF Dark in PC mode on my PC. I took it out of PC mode just to see how bad the lag is. It's pretty disgusting with a mouse. Completely unplayable, gave me motion sickness almost instantly for some reason.
 

Smokey

Member
Yes and it's 100% legit. I got my $500 refund in about a week.

Beachcamera has the 65" for 2200 right now, and eBuyusa has it for 1500 I believe. Most cards only do $500 max per item, so voila, $1700


I commented yesterday, but how does this process work? I've never used price match on a CC and plan to keep the B6, but curious.
 

e90Mark

Member
I commented yesterday, but how does this process work? I've never used price match on a CC and plan to keep the B6, but curious.

Basically, you buy and once that transaction is posted on your CC you can submit the price match form that your CC company offers. It's basic information (date of price, screenshots, etc.). They validate the info and credit your CC for the amount, up to $500, which seems to be the max for any price matching CC.

When I bought my C6, I instantly filled out the form, and they had me do a few extra steps than usual, but they ended up crediting me the difference.

not sure I understand. If I order from there I don't get the order?


Right, Joe's AV is a bait and switch website, despite all the reviews you see.
 

Chitown B

Member
Basically, you buy and once that transaction is posted on your CC you can submit the price match form that your CC company offers. It's basic information (date of price, screenshots, etc.). They validate the info and credit your CC for the amount, up to $500, which seems to be the max for any price matching CC.

When I bought my C6, I instantly filled out the form, and they had me do a few extra steps than usual, but they ended up crediting me the difference.




Right, Joe's AV is a bait and switch website, despite all the reviews you see.

thanks!
 

Weevilone

Member
I commented yesterday, but how does this process work? I've never used price match on a CC and plan to keep the B6, but curious.

In addition to what others said, read the fine print for your particular card(s). I know my Discover no longer works with PC parts, for example.. but my Citi does.

Citi also has an automatic "price rewind" feature where you upload a receipt and they scan certain sites for better prices for 60 days. It's so-so, but you can do the manual way too.
 

Ashhong

Member
FYI I meticulously went through the whole thread and couldn't find the post. I don't think he's posted them yet.

Could have sworn someone said he did. Thanks for checking though!

And yea, everyone covered pretty much all the info on the price match. I was in a dilemma before because I wanted to try splitting the payment between two cards and using price match on both but didn't end up going through with it. I still think it would work..
 
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