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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

Weevilone

Member
Could have sworn someone said he did. Thanks for checking though!

And yea, everyone covered pretty much all the info on the price match. I was in a dilemma before because I wanted to try splitting the payment between two cards and using price match on both but didn't end up going through with it. I still think it would work..

Fine print on all the price matching cards I've had voids any special features unless 100% of the payment was done on the card. Even $5 gift cards can jack it up.
 

Reallink

Member
All Ps4 Pro picture settings Auto

Energy Saving Off

ISF Dark
OLED light 30
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Tint 0
Colour 50
Gamut Auto
Gamma BT.1866
Colour Temp Warm 2

All bullshit settings Off
Black Level Auto

A majority of devs almost certainly target a gamma of 2.2 given their PC and SRGB environments. Out of curiosity what is your reasoning for 1886?
 

Ashhong

Member
Fine print on all the price matching cards I've had voids any special features unless 100% of the payment was done on the card. Even $5 gift cards can jack it up.

Chase is actually the opposite. It specifically advertises that they price match UP TO the amount charged on the card.
 

Alfredo_V

Neo Member
FYI I meticulously went through the whole thread and couldn't find the post. I don't think he's posted them yet.

Sorry. It may be the case that he haven't posted them yet like you say. Although it's a lot good reading in there, calibrating the basics for different sources.
 

Chitown B

Member
what do you guys think about waiting until mid Nov and trying to snag a 65E7P for cheap? Not sure if they'll drop a considerable amount around then and I'd like to have one soon after I get my Xbox One X.
 

Kambing

Member
Honestly you guys really should not worry too much about the gamma setting. Choose what you think looks best. They vary so differently from set to set, and the 'targets' are very inaccurate, despite what their name suggest. Case in point, look at my gamma curve at the 2.4 gamma mode on a C7 that D-Nice took pre calibration.

PRE-CALIBRATION (2.4 gamma mode)

9Q3BuAHl.png

POST-CALIBRATION DAY TIME (2.4 gamma mode)


My night time gamma target is 2.35, using the same 2.4 gamma mode.
 

nomis

Member
input lag is like 2x using ISF modes by the way...

Seems good! Don't you feel effected of more input lag, not using game mode?

My bad, I also label the input as “PC”

Sharpness at 0, i never did understand that. It makes the picture softer than needed, plus default sharpness on LG OLED is 10 or 15. But at the end of the day it's all subjective. :)



I'm still more a fan of HDR bright, i just like how it makes lighting more bright, more blinding i guess. The little blue lights on JD's armor in the Gears 4 main menu for example look great with that and very very tame with HDR game.

When you mention subtle details,what kind of things do you mean?

As far as sharpness goes in general, to my eyes native 4k content needs absolutely no added sharpening to be razor sharp, upscaled 1080p looks fine, and for video games that have varying methods to get them to 4k, even bumping the sharpness to 10-15 I can see fringing artifacts when I move the camera
 
Noob question: I have a TV with a Native 720p resolution, though 1080p seems to work on it.

Should I put my PS4 and Switch settings to 1080p or 720p?
 

TheBear

Member
For some reason my C7 has really shitty wireless and takes forever load vids on Netflix but my PS4 works fine. Only issue is that Netflix loads into HDR and gives everything a brown tinge. Any ideas on what settings I can change?

requoting this because a bunch of people thought I was having resolution issues when I wasn't. The issue, as far as I can tell, is the TV is picking up a HDR signal but no HDR content is playing so the colour is off. Does that make sense? The Netflix logo for example is a deep red colour on the TV app but a crimsony brown colour on Ps4. I can only use PS4 as it has a better wireless connection. Can't do wired.
 

Alfredo_V

Neo Member
https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-oled55b7v-best-tv-picture-settings.2106641/

I found these settings to be very good on my LG B7. After applying these setting for game SDR, I've reached a much better black level in games (posted earlier that I wasn't pleased before with that).

EDIT:
Well let me correct myself about my recommendation of settings from AVS site, I haven't touched the 2-point balance as suggested from that spreadsheet, just the main settings (of all pic modes)
 

Reallink

Member
https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-oled55b7v-best-tv-picture-settings.2106641/

I found these settings to be very good on my LG B7. After applying these setting for game SDR, I've reached a much better black level in games (posted earlier that I wasn't pleased before with that).

You must have had your RGB range ("Black Level" in the TV's settings) mismatched. "Low" on the TV correlates with "Limited" on PS4. Similarly "High" and "Full" go together. The "Auto" settings frequently don't work. Additionally, adding red in the manual 2 point white balance will give certain whites and grays an extreme pink tinge. I'd suggest subtracting green on these sets, not add red and blue. In their bright room settings, you would want Green -7 and Blue -3. This also has the benefit of bringing the gamma much closer to the target selected (e.g. 2.2). I can confirm those values are astonishingly similar to corrections I measured with an i1 Display Pro in a nearly identical bright mode. I would hesitate to apply the same translation to their dark room settings without someone confirming with a meter cause -11 green is a pretty extreme adjustment.
 

Alfredo_V

Neo Member
You must have had your RGB range ("Black Level" in the TV's settings) mismatched. "Low" on the TV correlates with "Limited" on PS4. Similarly "High" and "Full" go together. The "Auto" settings frequently don't work. Additionally, adding red in the manual 2 point white balance will give certain whites and grays an extreme pink tinge. I'd suggest subtracting green on these sets, not add red and blue. In their bright room settings, you would want Green -7 and Blue -3. This also has the benefit of bringing the gamma much closer to the target selected (e.g. 2.2). I can confirm those values are astonishingly similar to corrections I measured with an i1 Display Pro in a nearly identical bright mode. I would hesitate to apply the same translation to their dark room settings without someone confirming with a meter cause -11 green is a pretty extreme adjustment.

Yeah you're correct with RGB beeing mismatched. Auto RGB on PS4 is not working for me, when I set it to limited everything was fine (and that explains why I didnt understood why everyone recommended high black level on LG).

Well let me correct myself about my recommendation of settings from AVS site, I haven't touched the 2-point balance as suggested from that spreadsheet, just the main settings (of all pic modes). Also I shouldn't touch those without calibration equipment right?
 

Smokey

Member
You must have had your RGB range ("Black Level" in the TV's settings) mismatched. "Low" on the TV correlates with "Limited" on PS4. Similarly "High" and "Full" go together. The "Auto" settings frequently don't work. Additionally, adding red in the manual 2 point white balance will give certain whites and grays an extreme pink tinge. I'd suggest subtracting green on these sets, not add red and blue. In their bright room settings, you would want Green -7 and Blue -3. This also has the benefit of bringing the gamma much closer to the target selected (e.g. 2.2). I can confirm those values are astonishingly similar to corrections I measured with an i1 Display Pro in a nearly identical bright mode. I would hesitate to apply the same translation to their dark room settings without someone confirming with a meter cause -11 green is a pretty extreme adjustment.

Does this apply to PS4 Pro as well? I've just left everything on Auto, as well as default black level on my OLED, which is "Low".
 

LucidFlux

Member
Chase is actually the opposite. It specifically advertises that they price match UP TO the amount charged on the card.

Which Chase are you talking about? I have a Chase Sapphire Preferred and there is a $500 cap per item with a max of $2,500 per year.
 

zeeaykay

Member
Has anyone with an Xbox gone in and used the video calibration tool? Any pros/cons to that? I found the color filter one was really off, but with adjusting contrast and brightness I was able to see a more complete scale of white to black. With Xbox's tendency to crush blacks this might help balance it. Any reason not to do this?
 

Ashhong

Member
Which Chase are you talking about? I have a Chase Sapphire Preferred and there is a $500 cap per item with a max of $2,500 per year.

All Chase have the same benefits iirc. And you are correct, but I was specifically talking about price matching when you use a gift card as well. I just didn't add "up to 500$"
 
Speaking of Chase and price match, do they match the obscure online sites like EbuyUSA, TV Superstores, etc?

I'm awful close to just buying a 900e and it'd be nice to save $500.
 

nomis

Member
Is there remotely a concensus on HDR Game vs HDR Standard on PC Input label for B7/C7 on latest firmware? I’m being driven up the wall trying to chase “reference” for Horizon:ZD...
 

Kambing

Member
Is there remotely a concensus on HDR Game vs HDR Standard on PC Input label for B7/C7 on latest firmware? I’m being driven up the wall trying to chase “reference” for Horizon:ZD...

On 2017 LG OLEDS, PC input does not display HDR correctly, regardless of of HDR mode. Period.

If you want to view correct HDR, you must manually change the input from PC to anything else. Forget about input lag. At which point you’ll have to use HDR game — outside of PC input, lag is high when not in game mode.
 

MazeHaze

Banned
On 2017 LG OLEDS, PC input does not display HDR correctly, regardless of of HDR mode. Period.

If you want to view correct HDR, you must manually change the input from PC to anything else. Forget about input lag. At which point you’ll have to use HDR game — outside of PC input, lag is high when not in game mode.

This isn't true in my experience. HDR standard in PC mode on my PC looks fantastic. Shadow Warrior 2 is a sight to behold. Don't see any banding either, I suspect that's a PS4 pro problem, that has been proven to be solved by setting the system to 4:2:0
 

Kambing

Member
I'm on firmware 3.06.09 and its that way for all 2017 OLEDS on this firmware. I'll snap a picture of the difference. In PC input the colors are completely off, almost like there is a green/black hue covering everything. This was also confirmed by my calibrator. Its the only reason he calibrated HDR outside PC input.

EDIT: Missed the part where you said it works on PC. I have not yet tried 4:2:0 on PC, but we tried it on the PS4 Pro... will be interesting to see if it works on PC
EDIT2: Yeah my HDR is still the same in PC even with 4:2:0... like in the pictures, colors are way off in any HDR mode when input is PC. In particular look at Aloy's hair or even the HZD game menu... this is unrelated to brightness btw

HDR, PC INPUT


HDR, OTHER INPUT

 

MazeHaze

Banned
I'm on firmware 3.06.09 and its that way for all 2017 OLEDS on this firmware. I'll snap a picture of the difference. In PC input the colors are completely off, almost like there is a green/black hue covering everything. This was also confirmed by my calibrator. Its the only reason he calibrated HDR outside PC input.
EDIT: Missed the part where you said it works on PC. I have not yet tried 4:2:0 on PC, but we tried it on the PS4 Pro... will be interesting to see if it works on PC

Yeah I just double checked to see if I'm crazy. HDR cinema is what I use on PC mode for my PC and it looks great.

HOWEVER, I only had tried HDR game mode on my PS4 before, with Horizon ZD, and it did indeed look a bit dimmer in game mode. BUT, I don't get that problem at all with game mode on my PC. Flicking back and forth between HDR game and cinema/cinema home looked about equal in brightness. Standard and Vivid obviously seemed brighter, because they're torch mode with the dynamic contrast cranked and a bunch of blown out whites, but HDR game with Shadow Warrior 2 on my PC seemed fine.

I'm not denying there's a problem somewhere, HDR game on my PS4 was indeed a bit dimmer, but I don't see the same on my PC.

EDIT: I should also mention that the only time I tried PC mode with HDR on the PS4 was with Resogun. It generally looked...kind of desaturized and brown or something, I just assumed it was a bad HDR implementation at first, but it looked fine outside of PC mode. I didn't really think much about it until now though since everything looks great on PC. Could be some kind of conflict between PS4's HDR implementation and how the TV processes HDR while in PC mode. (and game mode too)
 

Reallink

Member
Does this apply to PS4 Pro as well? I've just left everything on Auto, as well as default black level on my OLED, which is "Low".

Yea Pro is the same, Low with Limited, High with Full. Auto on both resulted in a mismatch for me.

Is there remotely a concensus on HDR Game vs HDR Standard on PC Input label for B7/C7 on latest firmware? I'm being driven up the wall trying to chase ”reference" for Horizon:ZD...

PC Label Standard HDR doesn't look right at all to me, shadow detail and even mid tones are completely washed out and blown out. Non-PC Game HDR looks effectively identical to Cinema User with the same settings and seems to be much more accurate in terms of what was intended.
 

nomis

Member
PC Label Standard HDR doesn't look right at all to me, shadow detail and even mid tones are completely washed out and blown out. Non-PC Game HDR looks effectively identical to Cinema User with the same settings and seems to be much more accurate in terms of what was intended.

This is just what I was looking to hear, thanks a ton. Out of curiousity what’s your color temp at in Game HDR? Also, latest firmware?
 

ToD_

Member
I'm on firmware 3.06.09 and its that way for all 2017 OLEDS on this firmware. I'll snap a picture of the difference. In PC input the colors are completely off, almost like there is a green/black hue covering everything. This was also confirmed by my calibrator. Its the only reason he calibrated HDR outside PC input.

EDIT: Missed the part where you said it works on PC. I have not yet tried 4:2:0 on PC, but we tried it on the PS4 Pro... will be interesting to see if it works on PC
EDIT2: Yeah my HDR is still the same in PC even with 4:2:0... like in the pictures, colors are way off in any HDR mode when input is PC. In particular look at Aloy's hair or even the HZD game menu... this is unrelated to brightness btw

I assume you mean 3.60.09? How is HDR Game looking for you (non-pc)? In my case HDR Game is very dim and I'd rather use standard, which I thought looked fine.

PC Label Standard HDR doesn't look right at all to me, shadow detail and even mid tones are completely washed out and blown out. Non-PC Game HDR looks effectively identical to Cinema User with the same settings and seems to be much more accurate in terms of what was intended.

Are you on a 2017 model? What firmware? HDR Game looks very different to me compared to Cinema User on 3.60.09.
 

Kambing

Member
I assume you mean 3.60.09? How is HDR Game looking for you (non-pc)? In my case HDR Game is very dim and I'd rather use standard, which I thought looked fine.



Are you on a 2017 model? What firmware? HDR Game looks very different to me compared to Cinema User on 3.60.09.

Yeah my bad, typo -- i'm on 3.60.09. Honestly, i don't find HDR Game to be dim at all. HDR Cinema User is the mode that D-nice used when calibrating HDR. Only HDR Game on this firmware has the same type of HDR mapping curve as Cinema User (whether to clip content beyond what nit the display can handle, or preserve more detail). I will note that Cinema User is definitely 10% brighter than Game for some reason.

The 'dimming' is a by product of LG using a different HDR mapping curve. Most UHD blu rays were graded at 1000 nits so it should not be a problem for 90% of movies. Games on the other hand have different standards (like HZD, that is graded to 6000 nits!). Fortunately, most games have in game brightness sliders to compensate the now aggressive HDR mapping curve in HDR game mode, which is preferred in my opinion.

If you have a PC, try the Forza 7 demo out. With an LG 2017 OLED, you'll understand why HDR Game or Cinema User (non PC input) is the better HDR mapping curve/mode. In the Forza 7 HDR setting tab, trying to calibrate HDR brightness in HDR Standard (which everyone champions as being the best and brightest), will clip the Forza logo. It is artificially bright. In HDR Game you can dial the settings in and produce an image with so much contrast and pop.

For what its worth, the colors (no calibration) are so spot on in HDR Game once you change the white balance its pretty crazy... can share example between my calibrated HDR Cinema User vs HDR Game later.
 

nomis

Member
Yeah my bad, typo -- i'm on 3.60.09. Honestly, i don't find HDR Game to be dim at all. HDR Cinema User is the mode that D-nice used when calibrating HDR. Only HDR Game on this firmware has the same type of HDR mapping curve as Cinema User (whether to clip content beyond what nit the display can handle, or preserve more detail). I will note that Cinema User is definitely 10% brighter than Game for some reason.

The 'dimming' is a by product of LG using a different HDR mapping curve. Most UHD blu rays were graded at 1000 nits so it should not be a problem for 90% of movies. Games on the other hand have different standards (like HZD, that is graded to 6000 nits!). Fortunately, most games have in game brightness sliders to compensate the now aggressive HDR mapping curve in HDR game mode, which is preferred in my opinion.

If you have a PC, try the Forza 7 demo out. With an LG 2017 OLED, you'll understand why HDR Game or Cinema User (non PC input) is the better HDR mapping curve/mode. In the Forza 7 HDR setting tab, trying to calibrate HDR brightness in HDR Standard (which everyone champions as being the best and brightest), will clip the Forza logo. It is artificially bright. In HDR Game you can dial the settings in and produce an image with so much contrast and pop.

For what its worth, the colors (no calibration) are so spot on in HDR Game once you change the white balance its pretty crazy... can share example between my calibrated HDR Cinema User vs HDR Game later.

Care to post your white balance/other settings and in-game brightness for Horizon? It’s literally the only HDR game I care about being accurate right now lol
 

Kambing

Member
HDR Game

Oled Light = 100
Contrast = 100
Brightness = 50
Color = 48
Sharpness = 0
Color Temp = W48

Dynamic Contrast = Low
Color Gamut = Extended

Here are my Forza 7 demo HDR settings, that white bar is BRIGHT:

 

Ashhong

Member
Speaking of Chase and price match, do they match the obscure online sites like EbuyUSA, TV Superstores, etc?

I'm awful close to just buying a 900e and it'd be nice to save $500.

Worked for me with chase and ebuyusa

Though where do you see a 500$ difference? I remember the 900e was only around 2-300 off, unless you're looking at the larger size? Bhphotovideo had pretty good prices and mostly no tax
 

Reallink

Member
I assume you mean 3.60.09? How is HDR Game looking for you (non-pc)? In my case HDR Game is very dim and I'd rather use standard, which I thought looked fine.

Are you on a 2017 model? What firmware? HDR Game looks very different to me compared to Cinema User on 3.60.09.

Yea '17, but FW 3.60.16. Note I am talking NON-PC mode. If you match the available settings like for like the only difference I can eye ball is colors in Game are slightly more saturated by comparison at the same value, but the modes are seriously close.

*Strike Edit* I actually had Game Color 5 points higher, like for like they actually appear to be identical.
 
So guys, little bit of dilemma here. Sent back my 55XE93 because of a dead pixel. Went to the store yesterday, TV had 2 stuck and one dead pixel also 55 version. Funny thing, a guy came to me asking if he can help. Said if you can organise me a set with no pixel defects I would be very happy. Guy was from Sony and had some Japanese people with him who were checking the presentation of the TVs in store. They all came and looked after the pixels. Said it should not happen and wished me luck to get one without dead pixels.

So how common are dead pixels, do you have one on your set? Did you return a set with defects? Would you try again?
 

Alfredo_V

Neo Member
For what its worth, the colors (no calibration) are so spot on in HDR Game once you change the white balance its pretty crazy... can share example between my calibrated HDR Cinema User vs HDR Game later.

What do you mean by changing the white balance?
 
The new Star Trek show on Netflix, should I go HDR on Xbox One S or definitely watch it in DV? I rather not connect my TV to the internet because of those damn firmware updates but neither am I too fond of the Netflix app on Xbox always enabling HDR no matter what content I watch.

HDR Game

Oled Light = 100
Contrast = 100
Brightness = 50
Color = 48
Sharpness = 0
Color Temp = W48

Dynamic Contrast = Low
Color Gamut = Extended

Here are my Forza 7 demo HDR settings, that white bar is BRIGHT:

Doesn't that drain out all the colors though? I mean W25 is alright but w48? I'll try this though. But I'm sure I will return to HDR bright soon, lol.

What do you mean by changing the white balance?

Yeah i wonder too, I don't have that option. Dynamic contrast at low is still not enough, I would go for medium or even high. Otherwise just too dim.
 
Worked for me with chase and ebuyusa

Though where do you see a 500$ difference? I remember the 900e was only around 2-300 off, unless you're looking at the larger size? Bhphotovideo had pretty good prices and mostly no tax

I'm looking at the 75" which is $3298 where I intend to buy it and it's $2,319 at ebuy and $1,999 at TV Superstores right now. Assuming things don't get too busy at work today, I expect to buy it over my lunch hour.
 
Yeah my bad, typo -- i'm on 3.60.09. Honestly, i don't find HDR Game to be dim at all. HDR Cinema User is the mode that D-nice used when calibrating HDR. Only HDR Game on this firmware has the same type of HDR mapping curve as Cinema User (whether to clip content beyond what nit the display can handle, or preserve more detail). I will note that Cinema User is definitely 10% brighter than Game for some reason.

The 'dimming' is a by product of LG using a different HDR mapping curve. Most UHD blu rays were graded at 1000 nits so it should not be a problem for 90% of movies. Games on the other hand have different standards (like HZD, that is graded to 6000 nits!). Fortunately, most games have in game brightness sliders to compensate the now aggressive HDR mapping curve in HDR game mode, which is preferred in my opinion.

If you have a PC, try the Forza 7 demo out. With an LG 2017 OLED, you'll understand why HDR Game or Cinema User (non PC input) is the better HDR mapping curve/mode. In the Forza 7 HDR setting tab, trying to calibrate HDR brightness in HDR Standard (which everyone champions as being the best and brightest), will clip the Forza logo. It is artificially bright. In HDR Game you can dial the settings in and produce an image with so much contrast and pop.

For what its worth, the colors (no calibration) are so spot on in HDR Game once you change the white balance its pretty crazy... can share example between my calibrated HDR Cinema User vs HDR Game later.

Would be curious to see that comparison
 

xinek

Member
How are people changing the color temperature in HDR game mode? Mine is set to cool something or other and I'm unable to change it (2016 B6). I'd prefer warm. Do the 2017 models allow changing it?
 

Kambing

Member
What do you mean by changing the white balance?

Color temperature is the setting... that will change the white balance

Doesn't that drain out all the colors though? I mean W25 is alright but w48? I'll try this though. But I'm sure I will return to HDR bright soon, lol.


Yeah i wonder too, I don't have that option. Dynamic contrast at low is still not enough, I would go for medium or even high. Otherwise just too dim.

You have the 2016 OLED right? The settings I posted are only for 2017...

Would be curious to see that comparison

Sure man will do sometime today!
 

ToD_

Member
Yeah my bad, typo -- i'm on 3.60.09. Honestly, i don't find HDR Game to be dim at all. HDR Cinema User is the mode that D-nice used when calibrating HDR. Only HDR Game on this firmware has the same type of HDR mapping curve as Cinema User (whether to clip content beyond what nit the display can handle, or preserve more detail). I will note that Cinema User is definitely 10% brighter than Game for some reason.

I had a chance to play around with the PS4 (non-pro) and some HDR games yesterday. There is definitely a huge difference in brightness between the HDR Game and Cinema modes on my set. I don't mean the highlights, they can both get about equally bright there, but the midtones in Cinema are way brighter. Otherwise they do look identical in terms of color reproduction.

What I discovered is this difference in midtone brightness is entirely due to the dynamic contrast setting. With DC off in both HDR Game and Cinema they do indeed look the exact same. When I set it to low in both modes, however, the difference is drastic.

In HDR Game mode DC seems to simply increase contrast by increasing midtones and decreasing shadow detail. This is very apparent in a dark areas of games, where shadow detail appears to get crushed. DC on low in Cinema mode works entirely different, and it does appear to boost the midtones but without sacrificing detail. I imagine this is what LG means with the Active HDR feature (DC on low = active HDR).

The DC HDR processing for Game mode and Cinema modes is very different, and not worth it for Game mode so much. DC on low for Game mode results in a relatively small midtone brightness increase. Raising it to high actually matches Cinema's midtone brightness, but reduces shadow detail significantly. I'd say DC is best left off on Game mode, and on for Cinema.

I did come to the conclusion that HDR game is actually very usable and pleasant looking as long as you're not in a bright room. The highlights still get as bright as other modes, but the overall picture is simply less bright.

Can you please confirm you have Dynamic Contrast set to low in Cinema mode as well when comparing with Game mode? This is the recommended setting per LG and calibrators since it enables Active HDR (generates dynamic metadata from static metadata). Again, it definitely doesn't appear to function the same way in Game mode.

Yea '17, but FW 3.60.16. Note I am talking NON-PC mode. If you match the available settings like for like the only difference I can eye ball is colors in Game are slightly more saturated by comparison at the same value, but the modes are seriously close.

*Strike Edit* I actually had Game Color 5 points higher, like for like they actually appear to be identical.

Would you also please confirm Dynamic Contrast is set to low for both Cinema and Game modes when comparing?
 

Smokey

Member
Last day of return period for my B6 65" OLED. Keeping it. The $1,500 I paid for it will make it easier to swallow the upgrade to a HDMI 2.1 OLED in the future. And funny enough my eyes are now we'll adjusted to the 65", and I find myself wanting the 77". Feel like that would be perfect for games. That size is well over 10k now in OLED..

...But it won't be in #2020
win.png
 
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