Support NeoGAF

[ClovingWestbrook]

Looks like a new, bigger cutout as well. This may be the case I recommend around this price point at this time. I'd say it's a step above the HAF 922 as long as you're not planning on going SLI/Crossfire.
.

Would the USB3.0 case work for the GA-Z68AP-D3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard? I'd also be picking up a GTX 570.

 

[Hazaro]

Anyone have any experience with the Intel 1155 Extreme mobos? I am really looking for stability in my new build and am sort of leaning towards going Intel.

High end ASUS would be my pick. I can't speak for the high end Intel boards. Normally Intel is all stock/normal use and they don't really commit themselves to motherboards.

Is one very powerful GPU recommended more than 2 less powerful ones in SLI?

Yes.

What's the next logical, but not bank breaking step up from a 5770?

460 / 6850 in price tier.

Would the USB3.0 case work for the GA-Z68AP-D3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard? I'd also be picking up a GTX 570.

Don't see why not.

 

[mkenyon]

What's the next logical, but not bank breaking step up from a 5770?

What is bank breaking? 6970/570 would be a good step up. If $200-250 is more to your liking, then a 560Ti/6950 would be a pretty good upgrade. If you want something significant for around $200, you best wait for a 7870, or buy something off of craigslist/ebay.

*edit* Do you mean upgrading FROM a 5770, or you are looking at a 5770 and don't think it will quite give you the performance you want out of it?

Would the USB3.0 case work for the GA-Z68AP-D3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard? I'd also be picking up a GTX 570.

Yes.

 

[Maddness]

What is bank breaking? 6970/570 would be a good step up. If $200-250 is more to your liking, then a 560Ti/6950 would be a pretty good upgrade. If you want something significant for around $200, you best wait for a 7870, or buy something off of craigslist/ebay.


Yes.

I was thinking in the 250 range. Thanks!

 

[ClovingWestbrook]

What is bank breaking? 6970/570 would be a good step up. If $200-250 is more to your liking, then a 560Ti/6950 would be a pretty good upgrade. If you want something significant for around $200, you best wait for a 7870, or buy something off of craigslist/ebay.

*edit* Do you mean upgrading FROM a 5770, or you are looking at a 5770 and don't think it will quite give you the performance you want out of it?


Yes.

Sorry but between that case and this one, which do you recommend?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139008

 

[mkenyon]

Sorry but between that case and this one, which do you recommend?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139008

You really can't go wrong. The 400R gives you a bit more room for cable management behind the motherboard tray and better routing holes. Other than that, it's really a tossup.

 

[chaosblade]

I'd get the case from Amazon, $20 for shipping is ridiculous.

 

[ClovingWestbrook]

You really can't go wrong. The 400R gives you a bit more room for cable management behind the motherboard tray and better routing holes. Other than that, it's really a tossup.

Thanks kenyon and chaos Feels good getting the parts together! My hardware is 5 years old :X

 

[InertiaXr]

Repost:

My monitor is now about 3.5 years old, bought in summer 2008. It's a Hanns G HG216D. In the past week or so probably 2-3 times a day the entire picture will start to get a blue tinge, but then it will go away in 5-10 minutes. It's not obvious enough to see from even 10 feet away, but up close the black background of things get distinctly blue. It comes/goes in horizontal bars, so even something like a Steam chat window which has a black background might only have 3-4 rows of text that are blue tinged. It doesn't do this during games as far as I can tell, only when on the desktop/internet, so it shouldn't be a GPU temp issue, so I'm assuming a monitor age issue.

What's the issue here?

 

[mkenyon]

I know next to nothing about monitors. Only way to be sure it's not GPU related would be to use a different computer/GPU with the same monitor and see if the issue persists.

 

[Soi-Fong]

Hey guys, I hve a friend in Intel offering me an i7-990X + DX58OG Intel motherboard for 535 dollars. He gets heavy discounts and this is one of the bundles.

Or should I just spring for a heavily discounted 2600k plus 120gb 510 SSD plus extreme series motherboard for 570?

Is this a good deal? And is the processor good for gaming?

 

[BoobPhysics101]

Anybody else looking to upgrade as soon as the new cards come out? I'm thinking: sell my GTX 570 for $250 and pick up a Radeon 7950 for $350 or whatever it costs in January (rumored release date.)

I fully expect the 7950 to be 1.5-2x faster than my GTX 570, use less power, and to overclock a solid 100-150 mhz on the core for even more power.

Unless Kepler does a sneak release in December...

BTW, we're so long overdue for the new cards. It's been almost a year since the 5xx and 6xxx series was released with no major refreshes/updates in power. :/

 

[LordCanti]

Repost:

My monitor is now about 3.5 years old, bought in summer 2008. It's a Hanns G HG216D. In the past week or so probably 2-3 times a day the entire picture will start to get a blue tinge, but then it will go away in 5-10 minutes. It's not obvious enough to see from even 10 feet away, but up close the black background of things get distinctly blue. It comes/goes in horizontal bars, so even something like a Steam chat window which has a black background might only have 3-4 rows of text that are blue tinged. It doesn't do this during games as far as I can tell, only when on the desktop/internet, so it shouldn't be a GPU temp issue, so I'm assuming a monitor age issue.

What's the issue here?

I'm not the greatest authority on monitors, but it sounds like a power inverter issue, or else some other generic issue with the backlighting. I doubt you can fix it yourself.

Make sure it's not the GPU by testing with another monitor. If it's not, there isn't much you can do.

Hey guys, I hve a friend in Intel offering me an i7-990X + DX58OG Intel motherboard for 535 dollars. He gets heavy discounts and this is one of the bundles.

Or should I just spring for a heavily discounted 2600k plus 120gb 510 SSD plus extreme series motherboard for 570?

Is this a good deal? And is the processor good for gaming?

If you need the SSD, I'd say go for the second deal. Otherwise a 2500k will do just as well for gaming, and cost less (when combined with a mobo) than either deal.

 

[Soi-Fong]

I'm not the greatest authority on monitors, but it sounds like a power inverter issue, or else some other generic issue with the backlighting. I doubt you can fix it yourself.

Make sure it's not the GPU by testing with another monitor. If it's not, there isn't much you can do.



If you need the SSD, I'd say go for the second deal. Otherwise a 2500k will do just as well for gaming, and cost less (when combined with a mobo) than either deal.

He sent me a link with all these crazy bundles so it's kinda hard to decide. Lol

The 990x seems so tempting at that price and it includes a good motherboard also.

 

[mkenyon]

Hey guys, I hve a friend in Intel offering me an i7-990X + DX58OG Intel motherboard for 535 dollars. He gets heavy discounts and this is one of the bundles.

Or should I just spring for a heavily discounted 2600k plus 120gb 510 SSD plus extreme series motherboard for 570?

Is this a good deal? And is the processor good for gaming?

990X is on a dead platform. You want the 2600K. 2600K is also way faster core for core, and 1/16 as complicated to overclock. On the other hand, if you're looking for a tri SLI/X-Fire setup, the 1366 motherboards have more PCI-E lanes for that sort of thing.

 

[LordCanti]

edit: beaten.

I'd take that 2600k deal in a heartbeat though, if only for that drive. Assuming that the mobo doesn't suck, of course.

 

[Soi-Fong]

990X is on a dead platform. You want the 2600K.

Lol yeah.

Anyway, I have another question. Should I just spring for the deal he mentioned including the 2600k, 120 gb SSD and DZ68BC motherboard for 570 dollars or just go for another bundle consisting 2600k + SSD for 340 dollars?

I'm in a sort of knot since I want to get a motherboard that has PCIE 3 on it which the motherboard I mentioned does not have.

Since I'm building now, I want to futureproof for future video cards.

 

[gokieks]

Lol yeah.

Anyway, I have another question. Should I just spring for the deal he mentioned including the 2600k, 120 gb SSD and DZ68BC motherboard for 570 dollars or just go for another bundle consisting 2600k + SSD for 340 dollars?

I'm in a sort of knot since I want to get a motherboard that has PCIE 3 on it which the motherboard I mentioned does not have.

Since I'm building now, I want to futureproof for future video cards.

Go for the 2600K + SSD. That's an amazing deal, and you can get a better motherboard for OCing from elsewhere. Don't worry about PCIe 3.0 - by the time the lack of PCIe 3.0 support makes a real difference, you're likely to want to be building a new system anyway.

 

[mkenyon]

Current video cards are barely using half of what PCI-E 2.0 allows bandwidth wise. I don't imagine PCI E 3.0 will even really be utilized for many years ahead.

Go for the bundle that has just the SSD and 2600K and grab yourself a Maximus IV Gene-Z.

 

[Chris R]

What? No custom loop? WEAK. You've already got the case for it. Just sayin'.

Custom watercooling is so much fun, but a total pain in the ass to get setup correctly (or it was when I built my first watercooling rig many years ago... warning, disturbing picture at this link, back before I gave a shit about how my computer really looked http://i.imgur.com/V67Oz.jpg The thing was so freaking quiet though, and damn could I overclock the shit out of my stuff, and this was even before I added a block to my GPU). I'm happy to see good results from consumer friendly kits though. I might even pick something like the H100 up for my next build.

 

[rod furlong]

Thanks to all involved for this thread (and OP especially)...I built myself an 'excellent' with a few modifications, and it's awesome.

 

[mkenyon]

Watercooling has really become a piece of cake recently. Between choosing the right case and the right parts, it's really just plug and play. If you have the ability to put a computer together, you certainly have the ability to put a modern WC loop in.

Thanks to all involved for this thread (and OP especially)...I built myself an 'excellent' with a few modifications, and it's awesome.

Cheers! Hazaro has done an amazing job here. Should get paid for this.

 

[Soi-Fong]

Current video cards are barely using half of what PCI-E 2.0 allows bandwidth wise. I don't imagine PCI E 3.0 will even really be utilized for many years ahead.

Go for the bundle that has just the SSD and 2600K and grab yourself a Maximus IV Gene-Z.

Just wondering, anything special about the maximus iv gene z mobo compared to the one included in the deal?

 

[mkenyon]

Just wondering, anything special about the maximus iv gene z mobo compared to the one included in the deal?

Yes. It's awesome.

(makes overclocking really easy and stable)

You basically get the features of a $300 motherboard for $160.

 

[Jibbed]

Just about to pull the trigger on this build, any last revisions/changes I should make? I've spent ages looking at prices (UK) and Amazon seems to be the cheapest with free delivery and everything.

The i7-2600K doesn't seem worth the extra dough to me, and if anyone can point me in the direction of a cheaper 580, I'll love you forever.

£370.09
EVGA Nvidia GTX580 1536MB 384-Bit GDDR5 Graphics Card
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004X9B2VU/

£166.97
Intel Sandybridge i5-2500K Unlocked Core i5 Quad-Core Processor (3.30GHz, 6MB Cache, Socket 1155)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004FA8NX2/

£120.83
ASUS 1155 P8Z68-V PRO
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0050AFS84/

£38.00
Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance Memory Two Module Kit
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004CRSM4I/

£79.39
Crucial CT064M4Solid State Drive2 64GB M4 Solid State Drive
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004W2JKWG/

I already have a 850W CM modular PSU, Corsair H50 cooler, DVD drive, and NZXT case. Holding off on a HDD until the prices drop.

 

[cdyhybrid]

Nothing to cut there. If you can get the 2100 over the 860 it is a better overall chip because of HT. 2core vs 2core/HT(4 thread). So gaming is very similar, but for overall usability the HT is nice.
If you have a spare power cable go with an Antec EA 380w. I'll try to think of a substitute PSU in the meantime.

Nah, nothing to reuse, guess I'll just go with that. Thanks for the feedback! So everything up there is compatible and such right?

Students can get Win7 for $30, and waiting for BF should net you some good savings.

Not a current student anymore, I was reading up and I obviously wouldn't be able to provide verification of current student status if I used my .edu email

Also, are we going to be posting BF deals in this thread? Or would those be more appropriate for the BF thread in OT?

 

[ColonialRaptor]

Corsair have certainly done their part in changing the way companies design cases these days...

I didn't realise almost everyone is making them with the cable routing systems now and rubber grommets like the 800D started.

I still love my 800D.


Well, I finished installing everything in my system last night, and after about 4 hours of headaches and problems getting everything going I've finally got it up and running. I had a problem with the drives being set in IDE previously and the new board being set in AHCI by default, plus there were a few other little things that I messed up during the install that I didn't notice for ages (like one of the 8 pin power plugs on one of my graphics cards wasn't inserted properly yet).

I've got Windows 7 installed now, and so far as I can tell, these SATAIII SSD's are just SMOKING... I thought my SATAII drive was fast, but HOLY SHIT at this bad boy.

I haven't started overclocking the 3930K yet as I can't seem to figure out where the CPU multiplier is yet, and simply using the BCLK multiplier is not the right way to do it... It's so much more complicated than I'm used to, but I'll get there. I'm going for 5Ghz. I was tired as anything last night and I looked in the bios for a few minutes, these new UEFI BIOS are incredible, but it's totally new so it will take me a while to get used to everything and the new layout, got to figure out where to find everything.

 

[jstevenson]

getting close here to pulling trigger, esp. with microcenter current deal.

Trying to decide on MObo (will be going with a 2500k, plan to overclock some - single 570 in terms of GPU):

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard

vs.

ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard

vs.

ASRock P67 Extreme4 Socket 1155 P67 ATX Intel Motherboard

Thinkin the Z68 series is better, I also have the option of not going GEN3 on those ASUS boards, not sure if that's a big deal or not.

 

[LordCanti]

Not a current student anymore, I was reading up and I obviously wouldn't be able to provide verification of current student status if I used my .edu email

What do they ask for other than an .edu address? I was always under the impression that an .edu was all you needed, but then again, it's been a while since I needed a copy of Win 7.

I've never been asked for anything other than my .edu address in order to take advantage of deals.

 

[cdyhybrid]

What do they ask for other than an .edu address? I was always under the impression that an .edu was all you needed, but then again, it's been a while since I needed a copy of Win 7.

I've never been asked for anything other than my .edu address in order to take advantage of deals.

It looks like they only ask for .edu initially, but it says they might ask for further verification, and if you can't provide it you'd have to pay the difference.

 

[Soi-Fong]

Anyone here familiar with SSD's? Is there a big difference between the Intel 320 and 510 series? I can either go with the 320 and get an extra 40gb of space or the 510 which should technically be faster than the 320.

Any opinipns?

 

[mkenyon]

Anyone here familiar with SSD's? Is there a big difference between the Intel 320 and 510 series? I can either go with the 320 and get an extra 40gb of space or the 510 which should technically be faster than the 320.

Any opinipns?

510 faster, 320 more reliable. If there's an option between the two, i'd actually suggest the 320.

 

[BoobPhysics101]

Anyone here familiar with SSD's? Is there a big difference between the Intel 320 and 510 series? I can either go with the 320 and get an extra 40gb of space or the 510 which should technically be faster than the 320.

Any opinipns?

Save your money and get a Crucial M4, sameish performance, much cheaper. Use the same NAND chips if I remember correctly.

getting close here to pulling trigger, esp. with microcenter current deal.

Trying to decide on MObo (will be going with a 2500k, plan to overclock some - single 570 in terms of GPU):

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard

vs.

ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard

vs.

ASRock P67 Extreme4 Socket 1155 P67 ATX Intel Motherboard

Thinkin the Z68 series is better, I also have the option of not going GEN3 on those ASUS boards, not sure if that's a big deal or not.

I got the Asus P8Z68-V LX from that Microcenter deal. Total was $225 after rebate. It's a great board, and unless you REALLY want to spend an extra $60-80 just to have a board that can hit 5 Ghz instead of 4.6 Ghz, then go for it. I got my 2500k to 4.6 Ghz easily on the V LX. It has everything you'd want pretty much, except SLI support. If you want SLI, get the V regular.

 

[Soi-Fong]

Save your money and get a Crucial M4, sameish performance, much cheaper. Use the same NAND chips if I remember correctly.




I got the Asus P8Z68-V LX from that Microcenter deal. Total was $225 after rebate. It's a great board, and unless you REALLY want to spend an extra $60-80 just to have a board that can hit 5 Ghz instead of 4.6 Ghz, then go for it. I got my 2500k to 4.6 Ghz easily on the V LX. It has everything you'd want pretty much, except SLI support. If you want SLI, get the V regular.

Like I said before, my friend works in Intel so M4 isn't an option. It's between those two Intel SSD's.

 

[BoobPhysics101]

Like I said before, my friend works in Intel so M4 isn't an option. It's between those two Intel SSD's.

Definitely the 320. Extra space is really nice, and the speed boost from the 510 will not be noticeable. 40 extra gigs is certainly noticeable, though.

 

[mcrae]

does the hypercool 212+ or whatever it is called come with thermal paste?

 

[mcrae]

Watercooling has really become a piece of cake recently. Between choosing the right case and the right parts, it's really just plug and play. If you have the ability to put a computer together, you certainly have the ability to put a modern WC loop in.

i have an antec 900 - http://img.ncix.com/images/21123_IB.jpg is this good enough for watercooling? got any links with comprehensive how-to's?

 

[BoobPhysics101]

does the hypercool 212+ or whatever it is called come with thermal paste?

Yes, it does.

 

[·feist·]

Quoting this for anyone who missed it.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=32715824&postcount=17237

If you need a PSU, Newegg has an amazing deal right now. Seasonic 650W Modular 80-Plus Gold for $99:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088&Tpk=seasonic 650w

feist I uploaded a different HAF 912 pic.
http://i39.tinypic.com/mw4nb8.png

I've been meaning to switch that pic from the straight-on shot. Thanks, Haz.

Looks like a new, bigger cutout as well. This may be the case I recommend around this price point at this time. I'd say it's a step above the HAF 922 as long as you're not planning on going SLI/Crossfire.

edit: oh, and new grommets I think? Solid case for the money. Cooler Master has been on the ball in terms of case design.

Yeah, they're the anti-Antec, though Antec has now begun slowly designing new cases with modern features, just this past year.

Corsair have certainly done their part in changing the way companies design cases these days...

I didn't realise almost everyone is making them with the cable routing systems now and rubber grommets like the 800D started.

I still love my 800D.

Cooler Master actually had rubber grommets for cable routing passages in place before Corsair ever did. Corsair took it further by implemented rubber grommets in such a widespread way that they helped push more companies into making it a more common feature. You'll notice that Corsair's cases are largely influenced by a few companies; primarily Cooler Master, but also Lian Li, and others.

The increase in cable routing passages has been happening for years, though it's quickened over the last 2-3 years.

Like I said before, my friend works in Intel so M4 isn't an option. It's between those two Intel SSD's.

510s are SATA 3, against 320s, which are SATA 2. I'd probably lean towards the 510 overall, though, if you can wait a few months, the new 520s are coming out, and they're faster than both. Either way, you may want to have a look at some reviews to see which looks to a better choice for you. Try http://thessdreview.com/ or any of the major tech sites mentioned in the OP.

i have an antec 900 - http://img.ncix.com/images/21123_IB.jpg is this good enough for watercooling? got any links with comprehensive how-to's?

You can do a 240 rad in the 5.25" bays, along with a 120, but that case is fairly dated, and will limit you unless you mod it.

 

[Terproerg]

Well i was posting before bout my temp problems with my h60 and 955be. I think i have fixed it for now. I added another fan for push/pull and redid all my plugs and thermal paste and everything. got the cpu at 3.6ghz idle is 36c. hits 47c in games so far. But something odd happens when i run intelburn test or p95. It crashs with in minutes and rises to 60C+. Cant figure that part out. Oh well i guess all is left to do is figure out the voltage for 3.6ghz+ now.

 

[mcrae]

You can do a 240 rad in the 5.25" bays, along with a 120, but that case is fairly dated, and will limit you unless you mod it.

i honestly dont have much of a clue, and doubt i'd have anything more subtle than a hacksaw, lol. whats a good place to learn about watercooling?

 

[TheExodu5]

FFS. PC just rebooted.

So, I put in a new power supply and it went 5 days without rebooting. I guess the power supply isn't the issue then...unless the new one has the same problem. :|

Finally got my Gigabyte motherboard replacement today. I'll try to get it in tomorrow.

 

[Soi-Fong]

So... Which motherboard will do me better for gaming and Maya?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131759

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131792

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130611

 

[Hazaro]

Doesn't matter. I'd get the Red/Black one for looks.

 

[·feist·]

i honestly dont have much of a clue, and doubt i'd have anything more subtle than a hacksaw, lol. whats a good place to learn about watercooling?

If you keep the case, and end up needing to mod, a Dremel and assorted bits may be in your future. Meticulous, high-end custom water-cooling guides aren't really my thing. Some of our other regulars, like n0n44m and mkenyon, would be more helpful in that area.

Well i was posting before bout my temp problems with my h60 and 955be. I think i have fixed it for now. I added another fan for push/pull and redid all my plugs and thermal paste and everything. got the cpu at 3.6ghz idle is 36c. hits 47c in games so far. But something odd happens when i run intelburn test or p95. It crashs with in minutes and rises to 60C+. Cant figure that part out. Oh well i guess all is left to do is figure out the voltage for 3.6ghz+ now.

Assuming you're otherwise stable (crashing "with in minutes" would say otherwise), it sounds like you may need to address your airflow. IBT will heat you up more than most real world applications ever will, but crashing, or erroring out means you still need to tweak.

 

[sajj316]

Technically a 550W would run it if it was very very good (Seasonic, old highend Corsair). If it is a TX or VX550 I would not run it on that.
Pricing wise you can just get a non modular 750W (like a TX750) for not much more at all.
Also there is a bit in the OP about SLi/microstutter. Are you sure you want SLi over a 570/6950 or something?

1) No
2) Maybe
3) Look above you

Good point on the SLI/Microstutter and good read! Thanks. I've gone with a 560 2GB card and a 750W power supply.

 

[InfiniteNine]

Today is the day! Have my PC set up for the most part and just waiting on my video card and RAM today.

 

[vaelic]

Guys, I am really torn on what to upgrade first. Here is my info:

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Q6600 OC'd to 3.0 / 4GB DDR2 / ASUS P5B / Radeon 5850 1GB
Budget: $300-500
Main Use:Gaming in 1080p
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim, Battlefield 3, Saints Row 3,
Are reusing any parts?: coolmax CUG-700B, DVD drive,700GB WD HD, monitor, Maybe keep my 5850 1GB but that is part of my overall question on what to upgrade
When will you build?: I'd like to order by X-mas or if I wait further, it would be after taxes
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

Right now, Saints Row 3 runs like crap on any setting I have. Skyrim runs decent in most areas (30-50 FPS) and BF3 runs fine on 32 player maps, but my PC gets bogged down on 64 player maps.

I am a heavy PC gamer and I just dont know what will get me the most bang for my buck out of all my current PC parts. Help is needed from my Gaf peeps. I would like to purchase my upgrades from either NEWEGG or from my local FRYS, if that helps.

MISC question: will my coolmax CUG-700B work with new motherboards? i.e. has the right connectors to plug in to MB for power?

Thanks!

 

[AnkhWeasel]

(will be going with a 2500k, plan to overclock some - single 570 in terms of GPU)

This seems like a popular set-up - could anyone please give a rough idea of what sort of performance you'd get out of that combo when running new stuff (eg. Skyrim) at 1920x1080?

 

[mkenyon]

i honestly dont have much of a clue, and doubt i'd have anything more subtle than a hacksaw, lol. whats a good place to learn about watercooling?

www.overclock.net, or you can PM me any and all questions you have. I'll send you a PM to get an idea of the baseline level of WC'ing you're going for.

Guys, I am really torn on what to upgrade first. Here is my info:

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Q6600 OC'd to 3.0 / 4GB DDR2 / ASUS P5B / Radeon 5850 1GB
Budget: $300-500
Main Use:Gaming in 1080p
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim, Battlefield 3, Saints Row 3,
Are reusing any parts?: coolmax CUG-700B, DVD drive,700GB WD HD, monitor, Maybe keep my 5850 1GB but that is part of my overall question on what to upgrade
When will you build?: I'd like to order by X-mas or if I wait further, it would be after taxes
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

Right now, Saints Row 3 runs like crap on any setting I have. Skyrim runs decent in most areas (30-50 FPS) and BF3 runs fine on 32 player maps, but my PC gets bogged down on 64 player maps.

I am a heavy PC gamer and I just dont know what will get me the most bang for my buck out of all my current PC parts. Help is needed from my Gaf peeps. I would like to purchase my upgrades from either NEWEGG or from my local FRYS, if that helps.

MISC question: will my coolmax CUG-700B work with new motherboards? i.e. has the right connectors to plug in to MB for power?

Thanks!

You are in luck, as last weekend I upgraded a friend's system that was literally the same setup. We put in a 2500K + 8GB DDR3 + H100 + Maximus IV Gene-Z and it was a complete different experience. OC'd the 2500K to 4.8 stable. 5850 was rocking Skyrim, BF3, and Tribes absolutely fine.

As to your PSU, yes.