Will be mounting my H100 later on this week on my i7 2600k. I'm planning on getting rid of the pre-applied thermal paste and buying an aftermarket one. My cousin who is helping me build is a hardcored AS5 user, but I've heard good things about IC Diamond 7 so any opinions here? I just heard though that ICD7 is very hard to apply on.
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I like ICD7 because I got free samples and they did some pressure contact testing to find out how much force you really need on a heatsink (above 35 psi iirc).
It works well, non conductive, non capacitive, no cure time, is made of diamonds, and polishes metal. It is thicker than most pastes.
It used to be more expensive but everyone jacked up paste prices for some reason. MX-4 is also an easily recommended one.
Really, there are so many brands it is hard to go wrong, it's not like AS5 is bad, there are just better options now.
It works well, non conductive, non capacitive, no cure time, is made of diamonds, and polishes metal. It is thicker than most pastes.
It used to be more expensive but everyone jacked up paste prices for some reason. MX-4 is also an easily recommended one.
Really, there are so many brands it is hard to go wrong, it's not like AS5 is bad, there are just better options now.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Probably not worth it, Corsair's coolers come with pretty good stuff pre-applied (Shin Etsu X23 IIRC). Then again it was pretty well caked on my H50, so you might see better temps with your own application.
And for most thick/harder to apply thermal paste, I've heard you can make it easier to apply by putting it in a ziplock bag and running it under hot water. Never tried it myself though.
Is there any good method to applying the paste? I know my cousin uses a defunct credit card to spread the paste.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Using an Asus M50S laptop right now. (Intel Core 2 Penryn processor T9300 2.5GHz MB 800FSB / 3 GB DDR2 / GeForce 9500M GS)
Budget: Around $800 to $900 in the United States
Main Use: Gaming and general usage
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, Diablo 3, Lol, and Dota 2
Are reusing any parts?: Just a monitor
When will you build?: Would like to be able to build it by the end of this month
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)
Looking to get my next computer and want to get a desktop this time with my schooling almost done. I have read the first two posts and some of the guides linked related to building a computer. Made a possible build that I want to make sure is all right. Just wanted to know if there is anything that could be changed to save money or exhanged to get something better for a similar price. Have a monitor and still need to decide on a case, probably something basic looking. I picked a SSD that was posted a few pages back because it was a good value. Plan is to get a bigger hard drive once prices drop later on and make due with the SSD size for now. The build comes from the two guides posted in the OP and some of the higher rated items on Newegg. Any information would be appreciated, like if it's all compatible or if I missed anything, thanks. (Prices might be a bit off since I put the list together a little over a week ago)
Graphics card: EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604 - $249.99
Storage: SanDisk Ultra SDSSDH-120G-G25 2.5" 120GB SATA II Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171545 - $134.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277 - $29.99
Case:
PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ... EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.3 SLI - $68.99
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I52500K - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 - $219.99
MOBO: ASUS P8Z68-V LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131729 - $169.99
OPTICAL DRIVE: ASUS 24X DVD Burner Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS OEM - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 - $18.99
Your Current Specs: Using an Asus M50S laptop right now. (Intel Core 2 Penryn processor T9300 2.5GHz MB 800FSB / 3 GB DDR2 / GeForce 9500M GS)
Budget: Around $800 to $900 in the United States
Main Use: Gaming and general usage
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, Diablo 3, Lol, and Dota 2
Are reusing any parts?: Just a monitor
When will you build?: Would like to be able to build it by the end of this month
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)
Looking to get my next computer and want to get a desktop this time with my schooling almost done. I have read the first two posts and some of the guides linked related to building a computer. Made a possible build that I want to make sure is all right. Just wanted to know if there is anything that could be changed to save money or exhanged to get something better for a similar price. Have a monitor and still need to decide on a case, probably something basic looking. I picked a SSD that was posted a few pages back because it was a good value. Plan is to get a bigger hard drive once prices drop later on and make due with the SSD size for now. The build comes from the two guides posted in the OP and some of the higher rated items on Newegg. Any information would be appreciated, like if it's all compatible or if I missed anything, thanks. (Prices might be a bit off since I put the list together a little over a week ago)
Graphics card: EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604 - $249.99
Storage: SanDisk Ultra SDSSDH-120G-G25 2.5" 120GB SATA II Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171545 - $134.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277 - $29.99
Case:
PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ... EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.3 SLI - $68.99
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I52500K - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 - $219.99
MOBO: ASUS P8Z68-V LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131729 - $169.99
OPTICAL DRIVE: ASUS 24X DVD Burner Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS OEM - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 - $18.99
EDIT: PROBLEM FIXED. Thanks!
Hey guys. I need some help.
I bought ASUS G74SX some days ago, and clearly there are some problems. I'm convinced it's software-related and not hardware, but I'm noob so I really hope you could help me fix this thing. I initially consulted the guys at the Skyrim Modding thread, but that maybe a bit out of their area. They were kind enough to offer suggestions, but nothing seemed to help.
I'm going to copy my posts there.
Hey guys. I need some help.
I bought ASUS G74SX some days ago, and clearly there are some problems. I'm convinced it's software-related and not hardware, but I'm noob so I really hope you could help me fix this thing. I initially consulted the guys at the Skyrim Modding thread, but that maybe a bit out of their area. They were kind enough to offer suggestions, but nothing seemed to help.I'm going to copy my posts there.
I havn't done any shadow tweaks. I'm in "High Performance" setting. I took these CPU and GPU pics whil running the game in Windowed Mode, at 1440x810 (it was still very bad).
I downloaded the latest stable (not beta) driver for my GPU, but will install it after I hear your thoughts on the pics above. I said it before and I'll say it again: I'm a downright noob who wants to have some fun, so forgive my ignorance towards everything. Thanks for the help, man.
EDIT: Read the description in this video. That's the performance I should be getting.
I see no speedstep options in the BIOS. I tried running CPU-Z again with Skyrim in Windowed Mode, and it hovers between 2800Mhz (multiplier x28) and 800 (multiplier x8). That's wrong as it should be stable running that shit.. I installed Prime95 and did the "Blend test", and CPU-Z shows high core speed all the time, unlike in Skyrim.
Sigh. Any ideas?
brotkasten
Member
Found some old photos on my HDD. Feels so nostalgic.
Man, I loved those cards, even though SLI was really, really terrible back then. :lol
"You have two monitors? How cool is that?"
"Yeah, thanks. Can I play a game now?"
"With SLI?"
"Of course!"
"Well, then you better reboot and permanently disable one of those fancy monitors!"
"Ohhhh, I see ..."
So damn annoying.
Man, I loved those cards, even though SLI was really, really terrible back then. :lol
"You have two monitors? How cool is that?"
"Yeah, thanks. Can I play a game now?"
"With SLI?"
"Of course!"
"Well, then you better reboot and permanently disable one of those fancy monitors!"
"Ohhhh, I see ..."
So damn annoying.
chrisisawesome
Member
Thanks for the help!
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Might consider this 2x4GB RAM for $35. You won't notice a difference in 1333 and 1600 in your usage, so you may as well double your RAM for $5 more. It's "value" RAM, but as long as you're not overclocking it should do you fine. And it still has a lifetime warranty like all G.Skill's other RAM.
(Edit: This 8GB RAM is $30)
You could probably also step down to a P67 board since you don't need any of Z68s extra features, that could save you a little money. I usually recommend the basic P8P67 board since it offers pretty much everything the general user/gamer is going to want. But the one you have listed is fine.
For a basic looking case, the Fractal Design cases are probably your best bet. Or if you want to spend a little less (and of course, get a little less) the Bitfenix Shinobi is a good option.
Don't have a heatsink picked out for your "Maybe/Yes" OCing choice. Since you're going with the 2500k+P67 or Z68 board you may as well go all the way and add in a cooler. Hyper 212+ is fine.
Thanks, that's exactly what I was wondering. I'll change to the P67 board and grab one of those ram sets instead. Most of the guides said four GB was enough but if the price is that close, or even similar, I will just go ahead and get eight. I don't plan on overclocking right from the start so I didn't price a cooler. Had a fellow gaffer build a computer earlier this year and he didn't pick up a cooler until a couple months later (still hasn't overclocked his). I should be fine without one from the start as long as the case is good enough right?
Celcius
°Temp. member
I used to have the same motherboard back in the day :brofist:
Also, today I finally got my new motherboard. This time I went with the gen3 version of the p8z68v-pro. Currently installing programs and copying files over
Looking for extra space (for photos and video)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...ffiliateID=WxHRncoD05Y-qnkLeJfjxNOUxkKnF10e0A
Is this worth it?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...ffiliateID=WxHRncoD05Y-qnkLeJfjxNOUxkKnF10e0A
Is this worth it?
OK, after doing my research I've found a thread about my problem: Gigabyte Boot Cycling Problem
I will never buy another piece of GB hardware in my entire fucking life. This is unacceptable. And I can't return this POS MB because my uncle brought me from the US (I paid in advance :/) and I'm from Paraguay. So now all I've left is to save and get another motherboard.
Is there a quick key way to switch between show desktop on monitor 1 and show desktop on monitor 2? I have a smaller LCD for web surfing and shit and a HD TV for gaming potentially and I'd like to be able to switch them up on the fly. If I duplicate the desktop on both it makes the TV lose signal for whatever reason and makes the monitor look weird (don't know how else to describe it, it just looks a little off)
Finally I was able to fix it. It has taken me like a hundred tries to finish the process of copying the content of the backup BIOS to the main BIOS because the computer restarted every damn time while doing it, so after trying A LOT eventually the copy was successful. I reflashed the BIOS again later just to be sure.
Before the problem my 2500k was OC'd to 4.5 Ghz and my RAM to 1600 Mhz, now after flashing the new BIOS everything is back to stock, should I OC'd again or leave everything at stock?
I don't know what BLCK is but now it's running at 100MHz, I didn't touch the RAM timings, and will also check on that PLL thing.
Sorry about the nerd rage from the last post, I was dealing with this problem for a week now and just a few minutes after posting it I fixed it.
Lock the BLK = 100, disable Internal CPU PLL and manually change your ram speed / timings to spec. Then, overclock again to 4.5GHz. If you don't know what they are or how to, time to google and read up.
Drinky Crow
Banned
Hey guys. I need some help.
I'm going to copy my posts there.
you need to open the nvidia control panel and tell the os to launch the exe files for specific games using the nvidia 560m gpu (the "high-performance nVidia processor") instead of the integrated gpu on the intel chip.
yup, optimus sucks. i blame intel.
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Installed my 5 new Scythe 120mm Kaze-Jyun 1900 RPM fans that I got last week from Newegg for $24.
Wow, what a difference. Even on 40% power (via fan controller), they push what feels like the same amount of air that my Rosewill/Coolermasters pushed at 100%. On 100%... well, they're noisy as fuck, but they flow SO well.At 60% and below, they are very quiet but flow more than enough for my 2500k + GTX 570. My CPU idle temps dropped a good 3-4c. My GPU load temps dropped a good 4-5c! Very impressed.
Now I just need to use some WD40 or 3-in-1 oil to lubricate them and make sure they keep working. Highly recommended if you have a fan controller.
Eh, those people are usually full of it. As long as you have over 1 GB of VRAM, you're fine in BF3. 2 GB of VRAM is important for Skyrim, though.
Wow, what a difference. Even on 40% power (via fan controller), they push what feels like the same amount of air that my Rosewill/Coolermasters pushed at 100%. On 100%... well, they're noisy as fuck, but they flow SO well.At 60% and below, they are very quiet but flow more than enough for my 2500k + GTX 570. My CPU idle temps dropped a good 3-4c. My GPU load temps dropped a good 4-5c! Very impressed.
Now I just need to use some WD40 or 3-in-1 oil to lubricate them and make sure they keep working. Highly recommended if you have a fan controller.
Eh, those people are usually full of it. As long as you have over 1 GB of VRAM, you're fine in BF3. 2 GB of VRAM is important for Skyrim, though.
Celcius
°Temp. member
After playing BF3 for 2 hours, I get blue lines all over the screen and then it turns black & BF3 exits. After a few seconds, the screen goes back to normal. I'm sure the card is hot because I can feel it getting hotter in my room. However, the card is running at stock clocks with the high flow bracket installed. Right now I'm running evga oc scanner and the card is at 82C. Is that too hot for the card? My case is a HAF X by the way...
Wolf Akela
Member
Pretty hot. What card?
hey all, looking to put the following on craigslist. looking for prices to list each at. thanks!
ASUS P5B MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131045
coolmax CUG-700B p/s: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817159058
ty!
ASUS P5B MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131045
coolmax CUG-700B p/s: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817159058
ty!
BakugekiNZ
Member
So I see the pre-built guides in the OP, and I like what I see.
I'm looking to build mid-January, what if anything is likely to change, and would I gain much if I waited until late-Jan-to-mid-Feb?
Your Current Specs: Laptop only - 8600M GT ooooooh yeah
Budget: $600 to $800 - USA
Main Use: Light Gaming (e.g. BF3 on OK settings, not maxed out), General Usage
Monitor Resolution: 24" 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: BF3, Skyrim, Diablo 3
Are reusing any parts?: None at all - although I do have a Windows 7 license, KB/M, monitor
When will you build?: Early-to-mid January, can wait if the reason is "good enough"
Will you be overclocking?: No (I am a wuss. If you convince me there is some "safe" level of OCing though...)
I'm looking to build mid-January, what if anything is likely to change, and would I gain much if I waited until late-Jan-to-mid-Feb?
Your Current Specs: Laptop only - 8600M GT ooooooh yeah
Budget: $600 to $800 - USA
Main Use: Light Gaming (e.g. BF3 on OK settings, not maxed out), General Usage
Monitor Resolution: 24" 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: BF3, Skyrim, Diablo 3
Are reusing any parts?: None at all - although I do have a Windows 7 license, KB/M, monitor
When will you build?: Early-to-mid January, can wait if the reason is "good enough"
Will you be overclocking?: No (I am a wuss. If you convince me there is some "safe" level of OCing though...)
I use a program called Ultramon, great for multi monitor setups. Hopefully that helps
Ultramon is great, I've used it for years! Highly recommended!
Just wanted to say that I fixed my problem (original post is above).
Buy a fan controller?
BoobPhysics101
Banned
A nice fan controller is only $15-25. I paid $25 for my NZXT Sentry Mesh. Very nice fan controller.
OK, my parts are here, time to build. I have one of those anti-static bracelets, what common household items can I clip it to for grounding? It's cold as fuck here so I want to be extra careful with avoiding static buildup.
The Newegg assembly video says to touch the metal of the case, but mine is painted black. Will that affect anything?
The Newegg assembly video says to touch the metal of the case, but mine is painted black. Will that affect anything?
Please anyone can help me ?
Thanks
Done. Thanks!
shadowsdarknes
Member
http://www.circuitcity.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=253060&sku=TSD-1000AS6
Saw this sale for finally a cheap hardrive. 59.99 for a 1TB Seagate.
Saw this sale for finally a cheap hardrive. 59.99 for a 1TB Seagate.
You might be able to find the M-Audio BX5A still available for $150.
Ok everything is up and running except for it seems my video card. I think I know what the issue is. I'm running the Standard build, GTX 460, and the manual says I need to plug in 2 PCI-E plugs, but my PSU only came with one that's labeled as PCI-E... Am I SOL?
The fan on the card is spinning up, and but when I try to detect the card to DL drivers, it doesn't show up.
I do have two cords that consists of a PCI-Eish plug (one socket is missing, the top middle one) connected to two Molex plugs that only have 3 pins each. Is that what I use for the other slot on my video card?
Edit: yep, that worked
The fan on the card is spinning up, and but when I try to detect the card to DL drivers, it doesn't show up.
I do have two cords that consists of a PCI-Eish plug (one socket is missing, the top middle one) connected to two Molex plugs that only have 3 pins each. Is that what I use for the other slot on my video card?
Edit: yep, that worked
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