An 8-pin and a 6-pin adapter came with the GPU and I used them both. Is that wrong? The 6-pin one splits into two molex conncetions. If I recall correctly, the cables that came with the PSU weren't long enough when having them come from the back so I used the 8-pin adapter for that.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
An 8-pin and a 6-pin adapter came with the GPU and I used them both. Is that wrong? The 6-pin one splits into two molex conncetions. If I recall correctly, the cables that came with the PSU weren't long enough when having them come from the back so I used the 8-pin adapter for that.
Sir Abacus
Member
Don't use them. Get extensions and plug them in from the front until you do.
That's probably why the machine is rebooting every time you change the fan speed. The PSU just can't supply enough power to that connector and changing the fan speed disrupts the rail enough to make the PSU trip.
Alright, I'll do that. Both cables (6-pin and 8-pin) have to be connected to the GPU though, right?
You should only use those adaptors that came with the video card if your psu doesn't have them
And even then you are better off buying a new psu than using those adaptors. They can cause problems
Sir Abacus
Member
Yes.
Thanks guys! I guess this will do:
Btw Sir Abacus, the PC still reboots so it doesn't look like it's due to the adapters.
So being the idiot that I am I searched through Steam to see if anything good was on sale for mac (and I filtered it through OS) but then the crashes start and hours later when I hit refresh I had no idea that the filter resetted and I bought Skyrim. Then it wouldn't work. Throughout the entire process I thought how great it would be to play skyrim and I see videos of it looking absolutely glorious and how I envy PC users.
Now I'm heavily thinking of cancelling my Valve Customer Support ticket, keeping the game and building a gaming PC because it just looks too damn good.
I mostly want to design this for my room as a console. It's only purpose will be to game and it will hook up to the tv with a wireless controller at play (is PS4 fully compatible with games or should I stick to the tried and true 360 controller?).
I intend to buy 1 or 2 (depending on price) parts per pay day (I get payed every Friday). I want fantastic graphics and something that can last for a year + playing games on high settings.
Budget: What I'm hoping for through good deals and cutting corners is somewhere along the $500 range.
Main Use: Strictly gaming with even some dolphin (smash bros.) and PCSX2 emulation thrown in the mix.
For Drives I want the smallest SSD possible just for the OS (windows and steam OS when that gets big in the future) so that my PC can boot up fast. I'll stick to a 1tb hdd for gaming for now.
When will you build?: No deadline, depending on price it may take longer. I can wait for deals and such (if you help me where to look!)
Will you be overclocking?: *flails arms in the air* I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THIS MEANS.
Any extra questions?: Since this is going to be a console will there be a way to set it so that I immediately start in Steam Big Picture? I won't connect this thing to a mouse+keyboard so I'm not sure how that will work.
EDIT: What tools will I need to actually build a PC? Screwdrivers, glue, etc. etc. Do I just throw everything in the box, wrap the box with duct tape, do a prayer and push the power button?
For a long time I was thinking of waiting on a steam machine but I keep hearing that I can get a much better deal and more power out of a rig I built myself rather than a stock machine.
I'm completely inept when it comes to PC's so I'm going to assume from my knowledge that the 2 most important things are CPU's (which you don't upgrade often) and GPU's (which you upgrade often).
By often I mean in order to keep up with the brisk pace of gaming. I don't really want to upgrade often and want something that can last me a year+ (2 would be great) playing most games on high settings with HD texture packs. 60 fps is obviously a must.
I was scared of the price but the way I see it, I'm going to blow $400 on a PS4 then an extra $60 on a controller and god knows how much else on each and every single game (even if based PS+ is amazing). I'd rather take all that upfront money and just survive on steam sales until I can start buying new games again.
Also any good deals on Windows 8? Like the idiot that I am I never took advantage as a student to get a free license code and the OS seems to be one of the more expensive parts of a PC.
Games I'm interested (by developer):
Bethesda
Ubisoft
Squeenix
Platinum (here's hoping rising is the first in many, many delicious games)
Souls series
Bungie
Valve
some capcom
maybe EA
I'm going to start looking at stock pcs and study up on CPU types and stuff to see what is needed and what is not.
Now if Capcom could just announce a straight port of Dragons Dogma on the PC I will throw my PS3 out the window and start making this shit today. The only game that I feel really needs a PC port.
Now I'm heavily thinking of cancelling my Valve Customer Support ticket, keeping the game and building a gaming PC because it just looks too damn good.
I mostly want to design this for my room as a console. It's only purpose will be to game and it will hook up to the tv with a wireless controller at play (is PS4 fully compatible with games or should I stick to the tried and true 360 controller?).
I intend to buy 1 or 2 (depending on price) parts per pay day (I get payed every Friday). I want fantastic graphics and something that can last for a year + playing games on high settings.
Budget: What I'm hoping for through good deals and cutting corners is somewhere along the $500 range.
Main Use: Strictly gaming with even some dolphin (smash bros.) and PCSX2 emulation thrown in the mix.
For Drives I want the smallest SSD possible just for the OS (windows and steam OS when that gets big in the future) so that my PC can boot up fast. I'll stick to a 1tb hdd for gaming for now.
When will you build?: No deadline, depending on price it may take longer. I can wait for deals and such (if you help me where to look!)
Will you be overclocking?: *flails arms in the air* I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THIS MEANS.
Any extra questions?: Since this is going to be a console will there be a way to set it so that I immediately start in Steam Big Picture? I won't connect this thing to a mouse+keyboard so I'm not sure how that will work.
EDIT: What tools will I need to actually build a PC? Screwdrivers, glue, etc. etc. Do I just throw everything in the box, wrap the box with duct tape, do a prayer and push the power button?
For a long time I was thinking of waiting on a steam machine but I keep hearing that I can get a much better deal and more power out of a rig I built myself rather than a stock machine.
I'm completely inept when it comes to PC's so I'm going to assume from my knowledge that the 2 most important things are CPU's (which you don't upgrade often) and GPU's (which you upgrade often).
By often I mean in order to keep up with the brisk pace of gaming. I don't really want to upgrade often and want something that can last me a year+ (2 would be great) playing most games on high settings with HD texture packs. 60 fps is obviously a must.
I was scared of the price but the way I see it, I'm going to blow $400 on a PS4 then an extra $60 on a controller and god knows how much else on each and every single game (even if based PS+ is amazing). I'd rather take all that upfront money and just survive on steam sales until I can start buying new games again.
Also any good deals on Windows 8? Like the idiot that I am I never took advantage as a student to get a free license code and the OS seems to be one of the more expensive parts of a PC.
Games I'm interested (by developer):
Bethesda
Ubisoft
Squeenix
Platinum (here's hoping rising is the first in many, many delicious games)
Souls series
Bungie
Valve
some capcom
maybe EA
I'm going to start looking at stock pcs and study up on CPU types and stuff to see what is needed and what is not.
Now if Capcom could just announce a straight port of Dragons Dogma on the PC I will throw my PS3 out the window and start making this shit today. The only game that I feel really needs a PC port.
Wolf Akela
Member
GAF, PC help. Woke up and my PC wont load sites completely. It just loads the title and stuck loading forever. Programs work (IMs, Steam, etc). However, everything works fine in my phone. Never changed any setting.
Restarted my router and modem.
Thought it was a DNS problem. Tries 3 different ones. No dice.
I can ping websites fine. They just dont load anything more than the title on my PC.
Restarted my router and modem.
Thought it was a DNS problem. Tries 3 different ones. No dice.
I can ping websites fine. They just dont load anything more than the title on my PC.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Merry Christmas everyone. A Christmas bump is not a hump nor a lump. Frustrated i get, when i rose out of bed. A black screen for me, is all i will see. Reports of the Grinch near, have i been bad this year?
try putting your gateway's ip as dns. I had the same problem once and this solved it
Wolf Akela
Member
Tried to set it both on my adapter and router. No dice.
Tried to set it both on my adapter and router. No dice.
empty the cache and delete all cookies
also try this
win+r (opens run)
CMD
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /renew
Wolf Akela
Member
Just tried, along with flushing DNS. Still the same.
I'm completely stumped. I scanned with Avast and MBAM. Turned off Comodo. Restarted. Nothing. Also, seems like every program that uses a URL of some sort can't load them. I have a game or two that I know uses URLs and they fail to load those parts.
On very rare occasions a website partially loads, but the images are broken and the CSS flatout didnt load.
edit: AVAST's fault. Fixed now.
I'm completely stumped. I scanned with Avast and MBAM. Turned off Comodo. Restarted. Nothing. Also, seems like every program that uses a URL of some sort can't load them. I have a game or two that I know uses URLs and they fail to load those parts.
On very rare occasions a website partially loads, but the images are broken and the CSS flatout didnt load.
edit: AVAST's fault. Fixed now.
I need to buy a new modem as my older one does not allow port forwarding and is about 6 years old....is there any information from the old modem that i will need when setting up the new one...also are there anygood cheap modems out there? just looking for something for the house
EDIT: My connection is through a phone line and there is no cable in the house if that matters
EDIT: My connection is through a phone line and there is no cable in the house if that matters
building for my brother
thinking of getting i5-4670K on Z87 (4C/4T at 3.4 GHz) for cpu, GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB for gpu and either ASRock Fatal1ty Z87 Killer or MSI Z87-G45 Gaming for motherboard
opinions?
should i bother getting some additional cooling thing? my brother never overclocks though
thinking of getting i5-4670K on Z87 (4C/4T at 3.4 GHz) for cpu, GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost 2GB for gpu and either ASRock Fatal1ty Z87 Killer or MSI Z87-G45 Gaming for motherboard
opinions?
should i bother getting some additional cooling thing? my brother never overclocks though
Doesn't overclock? the 4670K seems a bit silly then. Drop down to the non-K model (4570) if he has no plans to overclock at all. Maybe even something like the 4440. The 100-200MHZ difference between the models really won't mean much outside of benchmark cases. Use the money you'll save to put the GPU one tier higher.
The motherboards also seem a bit much for it, although I couldn't tell you what to replace it with. Any brand loyalty at all or just whatever works?
BeekleMatter
Member
I'd liiike to be able to run somewhat recent games, but if that's an impossibility then I'm fine with just running older games (ie FEAR 1, TF2, etc.). My standards are "playable": I'm perfectly happy running everything at minimum settings.
The page for the M531R is here:
http://www.dell.com/us/p/laptops#!everyday-laptops
Now that I look at the main page again, I'm seeing a laptop that didn't show up before. It costs the same ($550) and has a discrete GPU: http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-17-3721/pd?oc=fncwd229h7&model_id=inspiron-17-3721
And thanks for the hand-holding, man. I'm kind of helpless on my own
Hey sorry for the late reply. If those are your two options get the M531R unless you just want to play minecraft at 10 fps
Laptop GAF has to know some better options/more than I do though. Hopefully they've helped ya out by now.Sir Abacus
Member
After looking at benchmarks it seems that in a lot of cases you'd be better off going for a 4430 and spending the extra $50 on a better video card even considering over clocking. At least until you get to the 770 level of performance.
nextgeneration
Member
Am thinking of upgrading my cpu to an i7 3770k. What is the best motherboard to pair up with this cpu, keeping in mind that I want to overclock the cpu as high as possible.
What do you currently have? And why the 3770k. Do you mean the 4770k? And why do you want to overclock 'as high as possible'? What are you doing with it?
How dodgy is this? Is it a rip off somehow and should my friend avoid it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ULTRA-FAS...t=UK_Computing_DesktopPCs&hash=item2ecbefc80c
I'm buying a PC through a friend which peaked another friends interest in gaming on a PC. He sent me this link asking if it was worth buying and if it was in anyway dodgy. Thoughts?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ULTRA-FAS...t=UK_Computing_DesktopPCs&hash=item2ecbefc80c
I'm buying a PC through a friend which peaked another friends interest in gaming on a PC. He sent me this link asking if it was worth buying and if it was in anyway dodgy. Thoughts?
It's a load of shite.
It still is. I don't expect it to be revised until the middle of January.
Since emulation is very important unquestionably we're going to be looking at a Haswell build, and you'll want an overclockable CPU to get as many extra frames as possible as it's a very CPU dependent operation. The 4670K will be your best option.
Auto starting Big Picture mode isn't straightfoward yet http://steamcommunity.com/groups/bigpicture/discussions/1/882960163766651704/
For the best deals on Windows 8 look here http://www.reddit.com/r/softwareswap or beg a student for one. Through Reddit for example you're talking $25 for an 8.1 code from this guy http://www.reddit.com/r/softwareswa...dows_81_pro_3264_bit_keys_w_paypal_145_sales/
PC wise for $500 you'll be looking at this, and this is sans GPU
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi Z87W ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($98.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($79.99 @ Adorama)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($32.99 @ Microcenter)
Total: $524.94
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-26 10:54 EST-0500)
If you live near a Microcenter you can save big on CPU/mobo. You're talking another... $160 ideally for your GPU (this ASUS 660 for example) and to OC the CPU $25 or so on a cooler. It'll be the guts of $700 all in for the hardware to get a properly good PC.
Fuck I forgot about the SFF bit. Would bump it up another $30 to go for the bare minimum
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z87I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($79.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($35.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($32.99 @ Microcenter)
Total: $551.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-26 11:24 EST-0500)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z87I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($79.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($35.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($32.99 @ Microcenter)
Total: $551.93
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-12-26 11:24 EST-0500)
metareferential
Member
What are the differences between a samsung ssd evo basic and a pro basic?
Is the pro worth the higher price?
Is the pro worth the higher price?
Unless you're doing lots and lots and lots of writes, no.
nextgeneration
Member
I currently have an i7 975e but am unable to overclock it without it crashing. I want a 3770k because I've read from various messageboards, sites, etc. that that's still the better processor because Haswell just isn't all that great because of the heat output and other reasons. I want to overclock because I want the highest frame rates possible in all my games, and I have two gtx 680's, so want to make sure the cpu isn't the bottleneck in my setup.
The 4770K is the better CPU.
It doesn't overclock as high as Ivy Bridge but the IPC improvements negates the clock advantage Ivy would hold over it. 4820K is also an option too on Ivy Bridge-E but I'd probably just stick to Haswell.
okay so i bought a cheap-ass DVD drive for like $15 from microcenter this morning along with my CPU. built the computer. holy shit. it ran. i am a god. freaking out, especially after last time i tried where the mobo decided to fry itself on first start-up and smoke everywhere. anyways. put w7 install dvd into drive, runs fine, installs, everything's all good. put network adaptor dvd into drive to install drivers and connect to sweet, sweet internet and drive begins to make loud, scary noises and tiny bits of smoke come out of it. so i turn off the computer, let it set for a minute, turn it back on, drivers install fine. 5 minutes later, begin to smell burning things, suspect dvd drive, touch it, it's basically on fire. take it out (don't really need it at this point i guess) and everything's fine.
what'd i do wrong, PCGaf?
what'd i do wrong, PCGaf?
I've got an HTPC I'm looking to upgrade into a better gaming rig. It's currently rocking an i5 2500k and already has 8gigs of RAM. I literally just need to drop in a GPU and bigger PSU.
Any suggestions on a card that will run 1080p at high/ultra settings with a frame rate at or above 60? I was thinking an R9 270x but I'm unsure it will do well with frame rates on some games.
Any suggestions on a card that will run 1080p at high/ultra settings with a frame rate at or above 60? I was thinking an R9 270x but I'm unsure it will do well with frame rates on some games.
Trying to stay at or below $300. Thanks for the tip. Is the x just a higher clock?
metareferential
Member
I'll be using it for the OS and some games, coupled with my old hdd for storage.
Yep that's it. For $300 I'd probably grab a GTX 760. 280X can come within budget when it's in stock and the prices are being messed about with by miners, but $250 would get you a great GTX 760.
Stick to the Evo.
Thanks! My local micro center has an open box 770 for $329. Any reason to break budget for a 770 say over the 760?
You can get a 770 for slightly less at $310 after rebate from Newegg plus free games which the Newegg one might not offer http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Both are good cards, both are good for 1080p gaming. This is no help
It depends on what the rest of your machine is like. If you've no SSD I'd say get the 760 + SSD over a 770.
Good point. IMO No.
You can get a 770 for slightly less at $310 after rebate from Newegg plus free games which the Newegg one might not offer http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Both are good cards, both are good for 1080p gaming. This is no help
It depends on what the rest of your machine is like. If you've no SSD I'd say get the 760 + SSD over a 770.
I don't have a SSD so that makes sense. Any suggestion on what model 760? While it will double duty as an HTPC and I realize these cards will make noise. I'd like to keep it to a minimum.
Quietest 760 is the MSI TF4 http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=MSI-760TFC&c=CJ
Hawk is the second quietest but is faster and slightly cheaper after rebate http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Techpowerup has done extensive testing on many varieties of the GTX 760. Here are their results:
MSI Twinfrozr- idle 25 dba, load 27 dba
MSI Hawk - Idle 26 dba, load 30 dba
Asus DirectCU II- idle 25 dba, load 33 dba
EVGA 760 SC w/ ACX- idle 26 dba, load 38 dba
Gigabyte Windforce- idle 27 dba, load 34 dba
So one of the MSIs would be best.
Hawk is the second quietest but is faster and slightly cheaper after rebate http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Techpowerup has done extensive testing on many varieties of the GTX 760. Here are their results:
MSI Twinfrozr- idle 25 dba, load 27 dba
MSI Hawk - Idle 26 dba, load 30 dba
Asus DirectCU II- idle 25 dba, load 33 dba
EVGA 760 SC w/ ACX- idle 26 dba, load 38 dba
Gigabyte Windforce- idle 27 dba, load 34 dba
So one of the MSIs would be best.
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
The Twinfrozr IV on the 760 is about as quiet as it's possible for a modern graphics card to be without going fanless, it really is a marvelous cooler/card combo if noise is a concern.
Mine has unfortunately just died and I'm getting a full refund for it after RMA'ing it (No power at all, no BIOS boot screen / display), but I'll happily replace it with the MSI HAWK model.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked