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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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solid mike

Member
Your parts look alright, but some optimizations can be made for better cost. For example..

You don't need a Z97 motherboard unless you plan to upgrade to an overclockable K-type processor (like the i5 4690K or i7 4790K), and you don't plan to overclock so you should look for an H97 motherboard instead, it may be cheaper. You don't need an ethernet adaptor card, the motherboard already has an ethernet adaptor built in.

If you want to hit 60FPS and have high-ish graphics settings on those games, I highly recommend you get a GTX 970 if possible. Otherwise the GTX 960 is ok, but also consider the R9 380 if that is available for you. Look for a 4GB VRAM version of the GTX 960 or R9 380 if possible, that will be worth it in the long run so the graphics card won't be bottlenecked in the future by a lack of VRAM.

Already started researching for an H97 motherboard to replace the unnecessary Z97. The TPLink TG-3468 Gigabit PCI Express Network Adapter is an ethernet adapter? I thought it was a wireless one. My setup will not be close to the modem so I will be relying on wifi. I'm going to be playing single player games anyway.

GTX 970 is a little too expensive as I'm trying to make this first build a "budget" one. I can upgrade later on I guess. Yes I have read that many people recomend the R9 380.

Thanks for this.
 

RGM79

Member
That looks really good actually... I wasn't really sure about what processor to go with so I like the i5, but I am really torn on the video card because of the 980 vs 970 because of the $300 jump in price for it. Do you think it's worth it or would I be fine with the 970? If I go 970 I'll end up jumping to a 500GB SSD and maybe a 2 TB HD. That's my only question, otherwise it looks great.

Also I don't need a windows key, but I think I'm gonna use $120 or so on another monitor, but I'll be keeping my current keyboard/mouse so the room there was perfect.

Depends on what sort of games you want to play at what level of performance and graphics settings. The GTX 970 will be decent for the next ~2 years or so at 1080p and 60FPS, and moderately high graphics settings. If you have or will buy an higher resolution monitor or want to be as ready as possible for VR gaming, then the GTX 980 Ti is a better bet as the more GPU power you have, the better.

Thanks for the advice! I hadn't even thought about USB 3.1 but I'm definitely going to want that, so thank you for catching that.

I actually landed on that exact case in the time since I posted that but wasn't exactly sure what people thought of it outside some reviews. I've also come across a most peculiar case, a SilverStone Raven RV05.

The whole case is built to orient the motherboard 90º clockwise so that the I/O plate as well as the exhaust point upwards instead of backwards. It's very strange but I kind of dig the idea of having easy access to ports, as well as ventilation going up instead of into my wall. Thoughts?

I'm not too familiar with the Raven case other than knowing that the internals are rotated, I haven't even read any reviews before you mentioned the case. After a cursory search, it looks like the cooling benefits of the RV05 are pretty solid, but some reviews like Anandtech note that there are some issues with the RV05, like limited expansion (even fewer bays than the Fractal case) and cable routing space. Still, it looks like a good case as long as you know what you're getting into and can work around any issues you may encounter. E.g., you're not using water cooling means no worries about having to replace the 180mm fans and potentially messing up the airflow, and you shouldn't buy any extra long graphics cards with triple fans so the EVGA GPU with twin fans will be just fine.

Already started researching for an H97 motherboard to replace the unnecessary Z97. The TPLink TG-3468 Gigabit PCI Express Network Adapter is an ethernet adapter? I thought it was a wireless one. My setup will not be close to the modem so I will be relying on wifi. I'm going to be playing single player games anyway.

GTX 970 is a little too expensive as I'm trying to make this first build a "budget" one. I can upgrade later on I guess. Yes I have read that many people recomend the R9 380.

Thanks for this.

Yeah, that TP-Link card is for an ethernet connection, not wifi. I'd look into something with wireless N or AC capability, depending on what router you have.
 

Jimrpg

Member
Well I don't live in the US (I live in Malaysia), so finding quality parts is harder.

http://www.compu-zone.com/index.php...erything-windows/pc-hardware-downloads-in-pdf (its in PDF format)

Here's the build I'm thinking of, mostly for 1080p gaming and maybe some 3D modeling.

CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VIII Ranger (couldn't find a Z170-A, and I need a motherboard with an optical out & DTS Connect for my speakers)
RAM: Kingston D4 Hyper Fury 2666 8GB X 2
Graphics: MSI GTX970 4G OC (Tiger)
SSD: Transcend 370 512GB (thinking of getting a Samsung 850 Pro 512GB but its very expensive, around 100USD more)
Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX
Power Supply: Cooler Master V750 (should I switch to V650?)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX
Optical Drive: Asus DVD RW
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212X (couldn't find a Hyper 212 EVO, and I think this is an updated version of EVO)

Hey fellow Malaysian.

I pretty much did the same configuration for my new PC this year (helped by RGM of course) except was using a Haswell processor. Still runs awesome and I'm very happy with it.

In terms of getting parts, check with Amazon, although the exchange rate is crazy at the moment, most of the computer parts prices are relatively close and sometimes the US has cheaper prices due to the bigger market they serve. Particularly with the graphics card you may be able to get a free game out of it (sometimes they don't have the same promotion locally.)

Secondly if you're in KL as I'm sure you know just go to Lowyat Plaza and shop around. A couple of them have price lists online, Viewnet, Jayacom and Cycom.

Finally I got most of my parts from Amazon and Lelong. Lelong prices were pretty reasonable, got most of them from Castle IT (their service is pretty slow) but everything was shipped at a reasonable time and all worked well.

Btw there's basically no difference between the 212X and the 212 Evo, as you say its the updated version. Check it fits in your case cause its quite tall. Oh and don't get a 550W power supply like I did cause its now limited my upgrading potential... go the 650W or 750W. :)
 

zidigan

Member
Depends on what sort of games you want to play at what level of performance and graphics settings. The GTX 970 will be decent for the next ~2 years or so at 1080p and 60FPS, and moderately high graphics settings. If you have or will buy an higher resolution monitor or want to be as ready as possible for VR gaming, then the GTX 980 Ti is a better bet as the more GPU power you have, the better.

I'll probably just stay with 1080 monitors and my TV and I'm interested in VR a bit, but I don't think I'd jump right away and by then I think I'd be getting closer to a new build anyways, unless it'll be here really soon.

Alright man, I'm gonna go to sleep and think on it, with the rough build you showed me I'll make a decision tomorrow when I get up and probably order it. I'm gonna really have to think how long I plan it'll be before I might upgrade the GPU or even do another build to decide between the 970 or 980ti and the other misc stuff. Anyways, thanks a lot for the help man, I really appreciate you starting me down the path!
 

LilJoka

Member
Network Adapters has Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I219-V

Otherwise there's nothing that looks like it could be what i'm looking for.

In any case, it looks, er, sounds like the AMD driver provides crystal clear audio so i probably won't have to deal with the other thing.

My thanks for all the help though.

You seem to be looking in device manager.
Instead go to control panel -> add and remove programs.

Using the monitor as a DAC is normally a poor quality solution, personally I wouldn't do it unless either your headphones are mediocre or your monitor is very high end.
 

sfried

Member
I have a little bit of concern with the ITX case I've chosen for my new rig: The Raven RVZ02B. The thing is, I want this thing to work, as I feel this is the only case to take into account the heat dissipation needed for powerful GPUs such as the Titan X or Fury X, and not to mention also having a separate chamber and venting for the CPU as well. My only concern is that I originally wanted it to house an ASUS Radeon R9 390 8GB Strix series card...which wouldn't be a problem if it weren't for the fact that I wanted the new setup to also house a 3.5" 7200 4TB HDD. According to specifications, however, that would mean I would either have to get a physically shorter graphics card (such as the Nano), or try to find a 2.5" 7200 RPM HDD. Apparently the latter do exist, but are just as expensive as an SSD of a higher capacity! Likewise, I can always just get a second SSD that has a similar, if not bigger capacity than the one I currently have right now (A Samsung Galaxy EVO 350 1TB), but that would jack up the price significantly.

(Yes, I've read about ways to get a full-sized card into the build by eliminating the optical drive altogether, but I always found the ability to play BDs usefull)

Here is my current PCPartsPicker list for this setup:
  • CPU - Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
  • CPU Cooler - Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet CPU Cooler (all-copper helps)
  • Motherboard - ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
  • Memory - G.SKILL Ri​pjaws V Se​ries 32GB ​(2 x 16GB)​ DDR4 2400​ Model F4-​2400C14D-3​2GVK (although any brand with similar reliability/performance will do)
  • Storage - Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (already aquired)
    Toshiba 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
  • Video Card - Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card or
    XFX R9-NANO-4SF6
  • Case - SilverSton​e RVZ02B M​ini ITX De​sktop Case (the non-windowed version)
  • Power Supply - Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply (any alternatives that fit said case and match wattage are appreciated. An "SFX-L" PSU is the maximum it can house.)
  • Optical Drive - Panasonic UJ-265 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer

And as mentioned before, I do not plan to overclock for safety/durability reasons.
 

sfried

Member
You are happy using cyberpower or other licensed software to play Blu Ray movies?

Considered the Node 304?

Yes, I've seen the Node 304. Based on some reviews, it might seem a bit tricky to make it all work, and not to mention having to take airflow into account. This was one of the reasons why I fel like the RVZ02B is a real design winner, since it keeps the more important components airated while shielding it from dust (at least for the "non-bling" all-black version).
 
To be honest, I think getting a 4TB Hard Drive kind of defeats the purpose of a M​ini ITX nowadays (which to me is about going as small as possible, and a 7200 RPM drive is not just space but also more heat). I know it seems necessary, but heck, I don't even have one that big inside my full tower, I just keep a couple of external 3TB+ drives.

edit: oh sheeit, when did newegg get a new look?
 

LilJoka

Member
Yes, I've seen the Node 304. Based on some reviews, it might seem a bit tricky to make it all work, and not to mention having to take airflow into account. This was one of the reasons why I fel like the RVZ02B is a real design winner, since it keeps the more important components airated while shielding it from dust (at least for the "non-bling" all-black version).

No idea where you heard that, RVZ02 is trickier/similar to install in than a Node, and the same goes for airflow. Also you won't need the SFX PSU.

I have the following in mine (ambient temp 20c):
Seasonic M12II 620w psu
Asus P8Z77I Deluxe
i7 3770 @ 4.23Ghz, peak temp 70c, avg 60c, idle 30c
Thermalright Venomous X CPU cooler with Yate Loon fan at static 700rpm
2x8Gb 2200Mhz RAM
Toshiba 3TB HDD mounted in bungee cord for silence (removed drive cages).
2x160GB SSDs taped on top of the PSU
MSI GAMER GTX 970 @ 1530/3900Mhz, peak temp 70c, avg temp 60-65c, fanless under 60c, idle 26-30c.
Stock case fans at medium speed.

There is dust filters installed by default on PSU intake, GPU intake, Front fan intakes.
Pics here
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=155018005&postcount=7457
I could easily throw a 980Ti or Titan X in there.
 

Samaritan

Member
I'm not too familiar with the Raven case other than knowing that the internals are rotated, I haven't even read any reviews before you mentioned the case. After a cursory search, it looks like the cooling benefits of the RV05 are pretty solid, but some reviews like Anandtech note that there are some issues with the RV05, like limited expansion (even fewer bays than the Fractal case) and cable routing space. Still, it looks like a good case as long as you know what you're getting into and can work around any issues you may encounter. E.g., you're not using water cooling means no worries about having to replace the 180mm fans and potentially messing up the airflow, and you shouldn't buy any extra long graphics cards with triple fans so the EVGA GPU with twin fans will be just fine.

Good to know! I also don't intend to use anything more than a single, 1TB SSD, so limited bay storage shouldn't be a problem. Appreciate the advice and looking into that for me! That helps a lot. :)
 

Black_Red

Member
Please, I need some advice.


For some reason my pc has rebooted twice while playing tree of savior beta (when time when launching the game, and the other time like 10 seconds after launching it). And it didnt happen with any other game (but it is the only thing I have played the last weeks).
Should I worry?, it was a fast reboot (like, if you had an electric problem) but it restarted on his own.

It's a "new" pc so everything should still be under warranty (unless i broke something because it's my first PC)


PD:I have played the game several times and this only happened twice. I THINK the second time it happended the pc rebooted again while trying to start again, but i disconnected it because i was scared.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
MSI just sent me this out of the blue. I think it's because I bought one of their 100ME cards, but I'm not sure.

aJ3g4fx.png
 

Woorloog

Banned
Audio crackling issue? If you have Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver/program, try uninstalling it. Seems to have helped my problem enormously.
There is still some slight issue perhaps... but nothing major. EDIT And i might be imagining it.

EDIT Wait, what the fuck? I removed it but it is still there, somehow? And with it, the audio crackling issue.
 

LilJoka

Member
Audio crackling issue? If you have Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver/program, try uninstalling it. Seems to have helped my problem enormously.
There is still some slight issue perhaps... but nothing major. EDIT And i might be imagining it.

EDIT Wait, what the fuck? I removed it but it is still there, somehow? And with it, the audio crackling issue.

How did you remove the driver for Intel Rapid Storage? How are you determining that it is still loaded?
 
That's up to you. I sort of remember last year's sales being somewhat disappointing, but there were still some deals. It's up to you to keep an eye on sales and get in on any bargains you see. Don't get suckered in by inflated "regular" prices, PCPartPicker's database also has a price tracker chart on all of the stuff they list so you can refer to that to see if it's actually at a decent discount, just scroll down from the list of prices.
Thank you so much! This thread has been very helpful. I'm excited to build my first PC!

Edit: I have one more question. You recommended I get the Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case but upon reading some reviews I noticed it doesn't support Optical Drives. It'd be nice to be able to have the option for an optical drive because some (not very many) clients like their images/video on a physical disk. Is there a reason you chose this case specifically or can I pick out any ATX case? Sorry for sounding a little naive haha. First time ever building a PC.
 

RGM79

Member
Good to know! I also don't intend to use anything more than a single, 1TB SSD, so limited bay storage shouldn't be a problem. Appreciate the advice and looking into that for me! That helps a lot. :)

No problem.
Please, I need some advice.

For some reason my pc has rebooted twice while playing tree of savior beta (when time when launching the game, and the other time like 10 seconds after launching it). And it didnt happen with any other game (but it is the only thing I have played the last weeks).
Should I worry?, it was a fast reboot (like, if you had an electric problem) but it restarted on his own.

It's a "new" pc so everything should still be under warranty (unless i broke something because it's my first PC)

PD:I have played the game several times and this only happened twice. I THINK the second time it happended the pc rebooted again while trying to start again, but i disconnected it because i was scared.

Knowing your computer's specs would help. Based on what you've said.. I think it might be the power supply? Either that or it's overheating and shutting off automatically (but in that case it shouldn't turn back on right away).

Thank you so much! This thread has been very helpful. I'm excited to build my first PC!

Edit: I have one more question. You recommended I get the Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case but upon reading some reviews I noticed it doesn't support Optical Drives. It'd be nice to be able to have the option for an optical drive because some (not very many) clients like their images/video on a physical disk. Is there a reason you chose this case specifically or can I pick out any ATX case? Sorry for sounding a little naive haha. First time ever building a PC.

You can choose any case, but I think it's a good case for a couple of reasons. It has good airflow, a wide open interior that's fairly easy to work in and will accommodate nearly any CPU cooler and graphics card, more than enough room for cable management, soundproofed foam lining the interior, and is relatively cheap. A similar case that does support disc drives would be Fractal's Define R5, which is similar in concept except it comes with more things like hard drive racks, fan controller, etc and costs more as well.
 

Black_Red

Member
Knowing your computer's specs would help. Based on what you've said.. I think it might be the power supply? Either that or it's overheating and shutting off automatically (but in that case it shouldn't turn back on right away).

i3-4160
MSi-H81-ME33
8GB RAM
NO VGA
EVGA 500W 80+

Since i dont have a VGA yet, i dont think it is the PSU :s

Someone told me he had a similar issue and in the end, it was a faulty mobo. But I think it's weird it has only happened with one game (or maybe it started recently and i have only played that game this week).
 
You can choose any case, but I think it's a good case for a couple of reasons. It has good airflow, a wide open interior that's fairly easy to work in and will accommodate nearly any CPU cooler and graphics card, more than enough room for cable management, soundproofed foam lining the interior, and is relatively cheap. A similar case that does support disc drives would be Fractal's Define R5, which is similar in concept except it comes with more things like hard drive racks, fan controller, etc and costs more as well.

Oh ok. Maybe I'll get the recommended case and if I have to I can always get an external drive.

Thanks!
 

RGM79

Member
i3-4160
MSi-H81-ME33
8GB RAM
NO VGA
EVGA 500W 80+

Since i dont have a VGA yet, i dont think it is the PSU :s

Someone told me he had a similar issue and in the end, it was a faulty mobo. But I think it's weird it has only happened with one game (or maybe it started recently and i have only played that game this week).

Hmm.. maybe something's unstable. Check and see if any other games result in the same issue. Faulty motherboard wouldn't be out of the question, but it'd be hard to determine.
 

Black_Red

Member
Hmm.. maybe something's unstable. Check and see if any other games result in the same issue. Faulty motherboard wouldn't be out of the question, but it'd be hard to determine.

Thanks, I'll try to play other games when i have some free time, i tested some games (and kept playing tree of savior) and nothing happened

As i say, it only happened 4 days ago and today it happened again so maybe I'll be hard to replicate if something is wrong.
 

Woorloog

Banned
I do not understand.

Upgrade to Win 10 wasn't that simple (Win 7 refused to offer the upgrade so i had to run it manually), and ultimately it didn't fix the audio issue.
So, i plugged the headset to the display again... and this time, the audio works perfectly. No tinnyness, no "surround sound", etc issues i had before. It is perfectly fine.
OK, i still can't use the mic but... *shrug*. I'll just have to tolerate the crackling while using Skype i guess.

I am going to order a soundcard though. It won't cost too much, and hopefully it will solve the issue permanently.

Indeed, i suspect my mobo's integrated soundcard may be flawed, because uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers and running Windows' own drivers didn't seem to have any real effect ultimately. Sucks but not sure what i could do about it. I could try to get it replaced (if the warranty covers stuff like this and if it is really a hardware issue) but... man, that would require rebuilding this computer, something i really, really don't think i want to do.

Oh, well, i have a reasonable system now, i'll live with it for now.
And really hope the issue won't return after rebooting the system.
 
Heads up for anyone with this board:

Had an absolute shitshow with BSOD relating to the Qualcomm WLAN on my new Asus Z170I motherboard. Only way to get into a clean W10 install is the disable the device in the BIOS.
 

LilJoka

Member
I do not understand.

Upgrade to Win 10 wasn't that simple (Win 7 refused to offer the upgrade so i had to run it manually), and ultimately it didn't fix the audio issue.
So, i plugged the headset to the display again... and this time, the audio works perfectly. No tinnyness, no "surround sound", etc issues i had before. It is perfectly fine.
OK, i still can't use the mic but... *shrug*. I'll just have to tolerate the crackling while using Skype i guess.

I am going to order a soundcard though. It won't cost too much, and hopefully it will solve the issue permanently.

Indeed, i suspect my mobo's integrated soundcard may be flawed, because uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers and running Windows' own drivers didn't seem to have any real effect ultimately. Sucks but not sure what i could do about it. I could try to get it replaced (if the warranty covers stuff like this and if it is really a hardware issue) but... man, that would require rebuilding this computer, something i really, really don't think i want to do.

Oh, well, i have a reasonable system now, i'll live with it for now.
And really hope the issue won't return after rebooting the system.

Warranty will cover it so really you should RMA. You've built it once, should be easy as pie now ;)
 

Woorloog

Banned
Warranty will cover it so really you should RMA. You've built it once, should be easy as pie now ;)

Ah but i cannot be sure it is a hardware issue. I just suspect, since both Windows and Realtek drivers cause crackling. Could be some other thing interfering, as i said earlier, removing IRST fixed the issue until a reboot...
 

yatesl

Member
My normally fairly quiet Fractal R4 (with window) has been a touch noisy the past few months. After a couple of drinks, I decided to stick the straw from a can of compressed air in to the PSU fan whilst it's running, and determined that was the issue.

It's making an almost rattling noise, it's hard to explain - it doesn't have the whoosh of a fan that's running at max RPM or anything.

Is there anything I can do? The PSU is an XFX Pro 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
 

LilJoka

Member
Ah but i cannot be sure it is a hardware issue. I just suspect, since both Windows and Realtek drivers cause crackling. Could be some other thing interfering, as i said earlier, removing IRST fixed the issue until a reboot...

Your best bet would be a format and reinstall. Only install the required drivers:
Chipset
Management engine
LAN
USB3.0
VGA

Doing an upgrade of an OS is unlikely to fix things, more likely to break things.
 

Woorloog

Banned
Your best bet would be a format and reinstall. Only install the required drivers:
Chipset
Management engine
LAN
USB3.0
VGA

Doing an upgrade of an OS is unlikely to fix things, more likely to break things.

I was kind of going to do a clean Win10 install but i have no energy for that right now. Needs so much stuff prepared... So, i'm sticking with what i've got now (ie working system if not ideal).
 
Hey guys. My new mobo and CPU just came. Put it together and the Boot Device LED light stays red and I can't boot into the BIOS. No signal going to the monitor.

Anyone have this issue?

Tried booting without RAM.
With 1 stick in every DIMM socket.
With no graphics card.

ASUS z170 a
i7 6700K
Gskill ripjaws v ddr4

Any help would appreciated.
 
Hey guys. My new mobo and CPU just came. Put it together and the Boot Device LED light stays red and I can't boot into the BIOS. No signal going to the monitor.

Anyone have this issue?

Tried booting without RAM.
With 1 stick in every DIMM socket.
With no graphics card.

ASUS z170 a
i7 6700K
Gskill ripjaws v ddr4

Any help would appreciated.
Let us know if you figure this one out. Hopefully you built it out of the case first.
 

LilJoka

Member
Shit. Now it won't even turn on. The CPU power LED is dark even though the power cables are plugged in. Fucking hell.

Unplug the DVD drive, HDDs, SSDs.
Make sure CPU 8 pin and 24pin ATX are fully pushed into their power sockets on the board.

Remove the power on button jumper. Use a screwdriver to short out the 2 pins to turn the PC on.
 
Unplug the DVD drive, HDDs, SSDs.
Make sure CPU 8 pin and 24pin ATX are fully pushed into their power sockets on the board.

Remove the power on button jumper. Use a screwdriver to short out the 2 pins to turn the PC on.

Got it. It's back on. Now if I can just figure out why it won't boot into BIOS
 

LilJoka

Member
Got it. It's back on. Now if I can just figure out why it won't boot into BIOS

This is probably a display issue, I assume you removed the GPU and used onboard? Just double check the cable is in the motherboard output and correct input selected on the monitor.

Try use 1 stick of ram, try different slots.
 
This is probably a display issue, I assume you removed the GPU and used onboard? Just double check the cable is in the motherboard output and correct input selected on the monitor.

Try use 1 stick of ram, try different slots.

Did that.

The issue is that the red Boot Device LED is on. Internet suggests it's because it's not recognizing my hdd. But I've already tried two SSDs
 

LilJoka

Member
Did that.

The issue is that the red Boot Device LED is on. Internet suggests it's because it's not recognizing my hdd. But I've already tried two SSDs

That means it's passing the bios and your not seeing it, hence why I think it's a display issue.

Try a different display cable.

Remove all usb devices.
 
That means it's passing the bios and your not seeing it, hence why I think it's a display issue.

Try a different display cable.

Remove all usb devices.

Great advice! :D

Tried a different monitor with VGA instead of DVI. Got into the BIOS now.

Looks like the RAM speed is off. Lemme see if I can tweak it back to normal
 

mike23

Member
Hey guys, I'm looking for some final comments on my build before I pull the trigger. I've already purchased the CPU from Micro Center and I'll probably make all of the online purchases tonight.
With respect to the memory, I'm fully aware that the general consensus is that 64GB is overkill, but I want it. Not really set on this memory in particular though.
I went up to a 1000w PS instead of a 850w to make it less of a hassle if I want to drop in a second 980ti in the future. I'm not sure if it is worth the extra bit of money for the bigger PS though.

The CPU cooler I'm not sure about. I like the water cooling option because it's smaller over the CPU and does a decent job cooling. I'm not sure if I should just go with an air cooling option like the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Especially since I switched to a case that doesn't have a window.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($537.48 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ B&H)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.30 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus X99-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($233.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($234.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($234.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($347.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card ($729.49 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case ($145.19 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($137.49 @ Newegg)
Total: $2727.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-31 20:22 EDT-0400
 

sfried

Member
No idea where you heard that, RVZ02 is trickier/similar to install in than a Node, and the same goes for airflow. Also you won't need the SFX PSU.

I have the following in mine (ambient temp 20c):
Seasonic M12II 620w psu
Asus P8Z77I Deluxe
i7 3770 @ 4.23Ghz, peak temp 70c, avg 60c, idle 30c
Thermalright Venomous X CPU cooler with Yate Loon fan at static 700rpm
2x8Gb 2200Mhz RAM
Toshiba 3TB HDD mounted in bungee cord for silence (removed drive cages).
2x160GB SSDs taped on top of the PSU
MSI GAMER GTX 970 @ 1530/3900Mhz, peak temp 70c, avg temp 60-65c, fanless under 60c, idle 26-30c.
Stock case fans at medium speed.

There is dust filters installed by default on PSU intake, GPU intake, Front fan intakes.
Pics here
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=155018005&postcount=7457
I could easily throw a 980Ti or Titan X in there.
Nice. I don't know why it seems bulkier from the pictures for some reason. In any case, a slimmer form factor works for me since I plan on extending my desktop to 3 monitors (my rig can sit just behind one of them if its oriented vertically).
 

RGM79

Member
My normally fairly quiet Fractal R4 (with window) has been a touch noisy the past few months. After a couple of drinks, I decided to stick the straw from a can of compressed air in to the PSU fan whilst it's running, and determined that was the issue.

It's making an almost rattling noise, it's hard to explain - it doesn't have the whoosh of a fan that's running at max RPM or anything.

Is there anything I can do? The PSU is an XFX Pro 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Power supplies aren't meant to be something you can open up and fix yourself, even if it's just the fan. If it's still under warranty (should be, it's a 5 year warranty) you can contact XFX and send it in for repairs or replacement.

Hey guys, I'm looking for some final comments on my build before I pull the trigger. I've already purchased the CPU from Micro Center and I'll probably make all of the online purchases tonight.
With respect to the memory, I'm fully aware that the general consensus is that 64GB is overkill, but I want it. Not really set on this memory in particular though.
I went up to a 1000w PS instead of a 850w to make it less of a hassle if I want to drop in a second 980ti in the future. I'm not sure if it is worth the extra bit of money for the bigger PS though.

The CPU cooler I'm not sure about. I like the water cooling option because it's smaller over the CPU and does a decent job cooling. I'm not sure if I should just go with an air cooling option like the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Especially since I switched to a case that doesn't have a window.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($537.48 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ B&H)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.30 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus X99-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($233.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($234.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($234.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($347.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card ($729.49 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case ($145.19 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($137.49 @ Newegg)
Total: $2727.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-31 20:22 EDT-0400

That's a monster build.
 

Ieu

Member
Hey guys, I'm looking for some final comments on my build before I pull the trigger. I've already purchased the CPU from Micro Center and I'll probably make all of the online purchases tonight.
With respect to the memory, I'm fully aware that the general consensus is that 64GB is overkill, but I want it. Not really set on this memory in particular though.
I went up to a 1000w PS instead of a 850w to make it less of a hassle if I want to drop in a second 980ti in the future. I'm not sure if it is worth the extra bit of money for the bigger PS though.

The CPU cooler I'm not sure about. I like the water cooling option because it's smaller over the CPU and does a decent job cooling. I'm not sure if I should just go with an air cooling option like the CRYORIG R1 Ultimate. Especially since I switched to a case that doesn't have a window.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($537.48 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ B&H)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.30 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus X99-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($233.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($234.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($234.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($347.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card ($729.49 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case ($145.19 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($137.49 @ Newegg)
Total: $2727.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-31 20:22 EDT-0400

Just be aware that if for some reason you were planning on using Windows 7 Home Premium, that OS will only recognise up to 16 GB of RAM.
 

Dr.Acula

Banned

Damn, those options are sick.

I dunno. I find it hard to justify spending that much on a case. My current PC is in a Thermaltake V3 Black Edition, and it only cost 50 bucks.
I really hate the case and for my next build I'm not even gonna reuse it so I guess that's 50 bucks that I can kiss goodbye. I'd prolly spend ~200 on a case that I can reuse going forward -lesson learned.

But yeah, if I could spend a gfx card worth on a custom case, that'd be niiiice.
 

mike23

Member
Just be aware that if for some reason you were planning on using Windows 7 Home Premium, that OS will only recognise up to 16 GB of RAM.

Thanks for the tip. I'll be using Windows 10. I'm hoping I'll be able to activate it with my Windows 8 key with the update coming up. I really rather not spend $200 bucks on a new copy of Windows 10 Pro just because I upgraded on my old PC. Worse comes to worst I'll call Microsoft and badger them until they make it activate.

Everything has been purchased. 980 TI will be here on the 3rd from, 950 Pro on the 4th from Amazon. The rest is coming from Newegg and should be in on the 5th. Got ~$47 of points on my Amazon card. Total comes out to ~$2710.
 
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