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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Wowfunhappy
Member
-Core i5 6600k @ 4.4 Ghz
-1x8gb 2133 DDR
-GTX 970
-Crappy 5200rpm HDD from my old Dell Inspiron
The games I've had issues with so far are Sonic Generations, Remember Me, and Alice: Madness Returns. I built this computer in August and just wasn't expecting to have these types of problems. None of games are exactly known for being good PC ports, but they're still titles I want to play.
Remember Me in particular is the one I'd really like to fix. I've tried various config tweaks related to increasing the pool size.
Some programs and games don't play nice with a missing page file. I recall from the GTAV PC performance gaf thread that GTAV would crash after a few hours for those that didn't have a page file.
It's probably safer to just keep a tiny page file.
It could be your 5400RPM drive. In that case an SSD or 7200RPM drive would work well for you.
CreepingFear
Member
It's the first of the month. Just a reminder to clean your computer out regularly to help components live longer and keep temperatures down. I'll be cleaning out my computers today with the Metro Vacumm ED500 Data Vac.
Hard to say whether they'll keep going down and for how long. Technically prices should rise higher as DDR3 production drops and supply becomes limited.
Busta SMurk
Member
Hey GAF. I've never built a PC before, so need ya help.
It's that time.
I am broke as fuck, and currently out of work, but I'm going to try and swing some things in the next few weeks, mainly for Fallout. Fallout is my jam, and I can't miss it.
After some contemplating whether or not to spend the money on a ps4, or throw it at a PC, I decided PC. I spend most my gaming time playing PC, and currently I'm on a Dell from 2009, an i5-750 @ 2.67, and 550ti 1gb, 8 GB ram. (It's really, really bad. I can't play anything recent, and have extreme performance issues with most games, and even on low settings rarely hit 60 fps)
So this is what I've got brewing so far: (CAD currency)
My main concerns are future proofing, (K model processor) size, and cost. I don't have much room, so I need a small case, and as I said earlier, I am low on $$.
I don't mind having an 'OK' GPU for the time being, as long as I can upgrade it to a 970/80, or whatever version of it they have come out next spring.
16 GB ram, with room to upgrade if need be.
-Will I have room in that case for an aftermarket cooler when I decide I need to overclock?
-Should I go 1151 MOBO with the newest CPU's?
-Any obvious problems with this setup?
Any help at all is appreciated.
It's that time.
I am broke as fuck, and currently out of work, but I'm going to try and swing some things in the next few weeks, mainly for Fallout. Fallout is my jam, and I can't miss it.
After some contemplating whether or not to spend the money on a ps4, or throw it at a PC, I decided PC. I spend most my gaming time playing PC, and currently I'm on a Dell from 2009, an i5-750 @ 2.67, and 550ti 1gb, 8 GB ram. (It's really, really bad. I can't play anything recent, and have extreme performance issues with most games, and even on low settings rarely hit 60 fps)
So this is what I've got brewing so far: (CAD currency)
My main concerns are future proofing, (K model processor) size, and cost. I don't have much room, so I need a small case, and as I said earlier, I am low on $$.
I don't mind having an 'OK' GPU for the time being, as long as I can upgrade it to a 970/80, or whatever version of it they have come out next spring.
16 GB ram, with room to upgrade if need be.
-Will I have room in that case for an aftermarket cooler when I decide I need to overclock?
-Should I go 1151 MOBO with the newest CPU's?
-Any obvious problems with this setup?
Any help at all is appreciated.
MisterNoisy
Member
I'm using that Gigabyte motherboard, and I'm pretty happy with it. If you're going team Green and want to SLI down the road, I think it's one of the cheapest SLI-capable mATX Z170 boards currently. That board did prove to be very picky about RAM (my first pick wouldn't even boot), so check the QVL list before buying.
As for LAN stuff, Intel networking is generally the 'gold standard', but I'm using a wireless adapter on my machine, so I can't offer any opinions on Killer networking stuff.
Not a huge fan of that PSU selection, but it's not terrible - I'd just spend a little more, particularly if you're concerned with future-proofing. If you want to upgrade past the sub-200W video card range down the road, you're going to have to replace it anyway. I'd really look at the Seasonic S12II 520W or XFX P1-550 if you want to keep it on the budget side of things, or any of a number of 650+W units for more headroom - the EVGA SuperNOVA P2/G2 units are great and super-competitive pricewise.
freshVeggie
Member
Specs
CPU: Intel i5-4690 @3,5GHz
GPU: MSI 970 Gaming
MOBO: MSI Z97 PC Mate (Dual Channel)
RAM: 2x4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600 DIMM CL9 Dual Kit
I want to upgrade my RAM to 16GB. My motherboard has 4 Ram slots and supports dual channel.
Buying another 2x4GB Crucial sticks, yay or nay?
CPU: Intel i5-4690 @3,5GHz
GPU: MSI 970 Gaming
MOBO: MSI Z97 PC Mate (Dual Channel)
RAM: 2x4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600 DIMM CL9 Dual Kit
I want to upgrade my RAM to 16GB. My motherboard has 4 Ram slots and supports dual channel.
Buying another 2x4GB Crucial sticks, yay or nay?
MisterNoisy
Member
Go for it. RAM is cheap as fuck.
Built my PC on Friday. Been giving it plenty of testing over the weekend and i'm super happy how it turned out. I appreciate all the feedback people gave me on components the last couple months as I slowly pieced together what fit my needs. First, here are the specs I went with:
I cannibalized the monitors, soundcard (Sound Blaster ZxR, I need the Optical Audio in and it's a bit higher quality than the on-board), keyboard ( Corsair Vengeance K70 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - Black Cherry MX Red) and mouse (Logitech G700S) from my old build. I also recently acquired an XBox One Elite controller, exclusively for PC gaming use as I don't own an XBO.
There was some talk earlier in the thread about my Windows 10 license (free upgrade from Win 8 Pro key) and rather I could transfer it to my new computer. Had no issues. All I did was de-activate it on my old PC first. This step might not be necessary but I did it to make sure. Then, clean installed 8.1 x64 on my new computer (all Win 8 keys work on Win 8.1) then downloaded the upgrade tool from MS. It all activated no problem. So anyone with a Windows 7 or 8/8.1 retail key on an older computer, you should consider doing this to save money. Note that it is highly unlikely to work with an OEM key so make sure it's a Retail key. A lot of people like me purchased a Windows 8 key a few years ago when Microsoft was selling them for something like $18 through their official online store. Turned out to be a hell of a great value over time.
I guess if there were anything I could have done differently it would be go go with a 6 physical core build instead of 4, but I think I'm good for 2 or 3 years. I'll reevaluate more cores at that time and see if games have started actually needing more cores or not because right now it's not an issue for gaming.
Also, if I had held off on purchasing my SSD for another week or two, I probably would have gotten a Samsung 950 Pro instead of 850 Pro since my mobo has M.2. Sadly, this was a timing issue I hadn't foreseen while building. But, the good news is that when I'm ready to expand to a 1TB SSD I can easily stick it into the M.2 slot no problem.
Alright!! I'm set and ready for Fallout 4, Battlefront, AC:S (free with my GPU, yay), Fable Legends and more.
I cannibalized the monitors, soundcard (Sound Blaster ZxR, I need the Optical Audio in and it's a bit higher quality than the on-board), keyboard ( Corsair Vengeance K70 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - Black Cherry MX Red) and mouse (Logitech G700S) from my old build. I also recently acquired an XBox One Elite controller, exclusively for PC gaming use as I don't own an XBO.
There was some talk earlier in the thread about my Windows 10 license (free upgrade from Win 8 Pro key) and rather I could transfer it to my new computer. Had no issues. All I did was de-activate it on my old PC first. This step might not be necessary but I did it to make sure. Then, clean installed 8.1 x64 on my new computer (all Win 8 keys work on Win 8.1) then downloaded the upgrade tool from MS. It all activated no problem. So anyone with a Windows 7 or 8/8.1 retail key on an older computer, you should consider doing this to save money. Note that it is highly unlikely to work with an OEM key so make sure it's a Retail key. A lot of people like me purchased a Windows 8 key a few years ago when Microsoft was selling them for something like $18 through their official online store. Turned out to be a hell of a great value over time.
I guess if there were anything I could have done differently it would be go go with a 6 physical core build instead of 4, but I think I'm good for 2 or 3 years. I'll reevaluate more cores at that time and see if games have started actually needing more cores or not because right now it's not an issue for gaming.
Also, if I had held off on purchasing my SSD for another week or two, I probably would have gotten a Samsung 950 Pro instead of 850 Pro since my mobo has M.2. Sadly, this was a timing issue I hadn't foreseen while building. But, the good news is that when I'm ready to expand to a 1TB SSD I can easily stick it into the M.2 slot no problem.
Alright!! I'm set and ready for Fallout 4, Battlefront, AC:S (free with my GPU, yay), Fable Legends and more.
If you're really low on money, skip building a new computer for now and just get a new graphics card. The i5 750 isn't exactly obsolete, and it's mainly the GTX 550 Ti that's holding you back.
Going with Skylake now means even higher costs, given that Skylake processors, Z170 motherboards, and DDR4 RAM are all still a bit more expensive than Haswell/Z97/DDR3.
Is there any specific reason you need 16GB of RAM right off the bat? Right now 8GB of RAM is enough for nearly all games, and if need be you can always add more in the future.
The Lamonster
Member
I'm about to start ordering my parts, and our builds are very similar. I've heard M.2s aren't as reliable as SATA SSDs, and the current real world benefits aren't worth the cost.
I've wrestled back and forth between 4 and 6 cores but I think I'm best off going Skylake in a pure gaming PC.
Question about your thermal paste selection - the included Noctua compound is supposed to be damn good...why purchase the MX-4?
Also were you able to fit dual fans on the D15 with the ripjaws in there?
shadow2810
Member
Current specs:
CPU: i7-950
Motherboard Sabertooth X58
Heatsink: Noctua NH-D14
RAM: Corsair TR3X6G1600C8D Dominator 6 GB 3 x 2 GB
GPU: ASUS GTX 970 STRIX
Power supply: Corsair 850W
My budget is about $500 CAD and I'm only looking to upgrade CPU, Mobo and potentially RAM, also have no plan to OC, any recommendations?
Also I have one question regarding storage. My current storage setup is 1xSSD (for OS) and 2xHDD RAID 0 (for random stuffs). Moving the SSD one should be painless, but for the RAID 0 setup, is there anyway to move it to new motherboard without losing data? Moving data to external drive would be a last resort.
Thanks.
CPU: i7-950
Motherboard Sabertooth X58
Heatsink: Noctua NH-D14
RAM: Corsair TR3X6G1600C8D Dominator 6 GB 3 x 2 GB
GPU: ASUS GTX 970 STRIX
Power supply: Corsair 850W
My budget is about $500 CAD and I'm only looking to upgrade CPU, Mobo and potentially RAM, also have no plan to OC, any recommendations?
Also I have one question regarding storage. My current storage setup is 1xSSD (for OS) and 2xHDD RAID 0 (for random stuffs). Moving the SSD one should be painless, but for the RAID 0 setup, is there anyway to move it to new motherboard without losing data? Moving data to external drive would be a last resort.
Thanks.
opticalmace
Member
If you can stretch your budget a bit, you could go for a 6600K, mobo and ram for about $550-ish. You'd need your own cooler though (maybe another $30) if you don't have one that is compatible.
edit: you could save $80-ish if you went with an i5-6500. It's a bit slower and you can't overclock. I know you said you don't plan to OC but CPUs last so long that going for the K option if you can squeeze it is usually worth it. OC'ing is easy and you can get extra life out of your CPU that way. I'm still on a 2500K and I'm just barely considering upgrading now, 4+ years later (because I got the OC'able model).
Are you feeling you need to? Running an i7-930 stock clock and I think the only thing I feel I will need to upgrade shortly is the 7870 I'm running. It might be worthwhile saving more money so you can push even higher and then theoretically next system last as long. You do need more RAM though.
For the RAID move you should be fine if you are using intel raid and moving to another board that supports it. Go in and make sure you record how it is setup first just in case.
I didn't know it came with Thermal paste when I ordered it! Oh well. I really doubt the difference between the two will be noticeable for me in any case.
Yup both fans are in and the ram clearance was not an issue. I just set the fans two or three MM higher than I might otherwise have, but the fans are still situated right where they need to be so I didn't have to sacrifice anything.
As for 6 cores, if I were really into streaming I would def have gone 6 cores just to make sure I was covered. So that's one scenario some people should think about.
shadow2810
Member
OK thanks I will make a note on them. Generally I would like to avoid OC as much as possible, my room is pretty much like a sauna during summer lol.
And what about an i5-6600, is there any difference with the K one if I dont plan to OC?
Well most of the games I play are poorly optimized so any extra power for more fps is appreciated. I will start buying parts around Christmas so hopefully I can get some good deals.
Also I think I'm running Marvell controller (I don't even remember why I didnt use the Intel one), so am I fucked?
Yes you will be without internet but this a test, you can install the driver back afterwards, just download a copy first. Run LatencyMon after uninstalling and see if it helped. Then install the driver back and let us know the result.
Make sure you record the settings, cluster size etcetera it is using. It should be fine. Biggest issue with RAID movement is when you don't know what the previous settings were.
I'd be curious to see benchmarks pitting i7-9xx class vs current class CPU with comparable video cards and see what the difference is. I'm not certain it's a worthwhile upgrade yet. Though I do intend to jump into VR so I'm also waiting for that to hit the ground and then do my upgrades based around it's requirements.
Ok that HDD is probably part of the problem, use resource monitor to monitor the HDD usage and see if it is being saturated whilst gaming.
Also try a combination of adaptive vsync in nvidia control panel and ~60fps fps limit in RTSS (installed with MSI afterburner). And try a clean install of nvidia drivers with display driver uninstalled program.
Run a scan with malwarebytes anti malware just so we can rule that out.
I haven't used a page file for over 6 years now and never ran into that. Are you sure GTAV didn't simply run out of memory?
Keeping any page file to some extent defeats the purpose, because Windows is silly about page files and will try to use it.
Have you considered buying Windows 10 from the Microsoft software swap? Because you could save quite a bit of money that way.
Also, I believe it's good to go with 16 GB right now, 8GB will become increasingly limiting shortly.
solid mike
Member
Good point, I keep on forgetting about how important USB 3.0 will be for me.
If the cost is relatively arbitrary, then I will go with H97.
By the way, if I decide to assemble the parts myself, what are the chances I botch the building and virtually destroy the entire setup. I'm no engineer but I can follow instructions. I'm just afraid there may be little nuances about assembling the parts that I may possibly miss and may cost me.
I'm posting on behalf of a friend who just got an MSI GTX 970 and has had some mad issues with it. We spent most of yesterday troubleshooting stuff but we're pretty much out of ideas so I'm posting here.
His GPU doesn't pass 40% usage in any game we've tried regardless of settings. He's not CPU bottlenecked as we haven't seen that go above like 60% usage either. I've read about issues with 970's causing it to get stuck in low power states but I don't think it's that as his clocks aren't low, it's just the low usage problem. We've tried the latest drivers and the older ones that came with the disk and it doesn't seem to make any difference. He's getting way worse performance than he used to with his old 7870. I'm pretty much out of ideas aside from doing a clean install of windows at this point.
His GPU doesn't pass 40% usage in any game we've tried regardless of settings. He's not CPU bottlenecked as we haven't seen that go above like 60% usage either. I've read about issues with 970's causing it to get stuck in low power states but I don't think it's that as his clocks aren't low, it's just the low usage problem. We've tried the latest drivers and the older ones that came with the disk and it doesn't seem to make any difference. He's getting way worse performance than he used to with his old 7870. I'm pretty much out of ideas aside from doing a clean install of windows at this point.
Consensus seems to be that if you are only looking to upgrade your GPU and you can wait for Pascal (6 to 9 months away?) then you should try since the jump should be a little higher than average for a new card series launch. But nobody knows the true numbers on that, so you'll have to follow your instincts!
Busta SMurk
Member
This was my first instinct too, but it appears that my i5-750 CPU does not even meet the minimum requirements for Fallout 4.
Originally I was going to go with this GPU instead of the one I listed above, becasue I don't have an 8-pin PSU, the the former is only a 6-pin.
Then I saw the spec requirements, and decided I've put this off for too long, and it's just that time already.
Of course, if I could squeeze by for a littler longer, I would, but I'm not so sure this can cut it.
Soo... What does it mean when i shut down my computer, and when i start it, it gets stuck in a reboot loop until i shut it down again (it will then start up properly).
In the reboot loop, it doesn't seem to do anything. It sends no signal to my display so i can't even try to enter BIOS.
This was perhaps the second time this happened (ignoring the loop i got before installing Windows).
In the reboot loop, it doesn't seem to do anything. It sends no signal to my display so i can't even try to enter BIOS.
This was perhaps the second time this happened (ignoring the loop i got before installing Windows).
opticalmace
Member
Is it overclocked?
Not by me for sure...
Don't know if the mobo has done something by itself. I'd imagine it won't do anything without prompting? (Asus Z170-A)
EDIT Also, not sure if it happened before. I have vague feeling it did happen once before but i've been doing quite a bit of things since having finished this so... *Shrug*
I reckon i could have accidentally done something in BIOS, i guess i should check?
arts&crafts
Member
So I am in the process of building this computer RGM79 suggested over the next 2 weeks.
I have a question regarding RAM though. Is 8 GB enough or should I just go 16GB. Also I dont know the difference between DDR4-2800 and 3000 but I was looking for 2x8GB I guess I could get 4x4GB.
Also I need a wireless adapter is there a good one or does it not matter too much?
I have a question regarding RAM though. Is 8 GB enough or should I just go 16GB. Also I dont know the difference between DDR4-2800 and 3000 but I was looking for 2x8GB I guess I could get 4x4GB.
Also I need a wireless adapter is there a good one or does it not matter too much?
The Lamonster
Member
At that price range I'd do 16GB, and go 2x8 since your board is dual channel. 2800 vs 3000 just means the speed and speed doesn't really matter much, especially when we're talking about a 200MHz difference.
arts&crafts
Member
Thanks, this appears to be similar to the one initially suggested.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888
The Lamonster
Member
In the $650-$800 price range, is there a better 980 Ti GPU than the EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+?
Here's my build:
Here's my build:
John Wick
Member
I've used some parts from my previous build from 2009 which was a Core i5 750.
Component Selection Price
CPU Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
£289.99
CPU Cooler Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
£90.29
Motherboard MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
£195.22
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
£108.04
Storage Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
£63.39
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
£53.99
Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
£71.98
Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
£268.99
Case Antec P280 ATX Mid Tower Case
£90.39
Power Supply Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
£90.00
Optical Drive Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer
£11.64
LG WH12LS38 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
£55.00
Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 (64-bit)
Sound Card Creative Labs Recon3D PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card
£35.00
Monitor Samsung S27D590C 60Hz 27.0" Monitor
£250.00
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000 Wireless Standard Keyboard w/Optical Mouse
£61.27
Speakers Logitech Z506 155W 5.1ch Speakers
£73.99
Debating wether to buy a 980Ti or just wait for next gen cards. Probably wait as i only game 1080p at the moment
Component Selection Price
CPU Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
£289.99
CPU Cooler Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
£90.29
Motherboard MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
£195.22
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
£108.04
Storage Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
£63.39
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
£53.99
Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
£71.98
Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
£268.99
Case Antec P280 ATX Mid Tower Case
£90.39
Power Supply Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
£90.00
Optical Drive Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer
£11.64
LG WH12LS38 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
£55.00
Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 (64-bit)
Sound Card Creative Labs Recon3D PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card
£35.00
Monitor Samsung S27D590C 60Hz 27.0" Monitor
£250.00
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000 Wireless Standard Keyboard w/Optical Mouse
£61.27
Speakers Logitech Z506 155W 5.1ch Speakers
£73.99
Debating wether to buy a 980Ti or just wait for next gen cards. Probably wait as i only game 1080p at the moment
Could be, I haven't personally experienced it myself.
Alright then, that's fine. Technically there's only around a ~10% performance difference between your processor and the minimum spec for gaming performance (just a 4FPS difference for Fallout 3 back when Fallout 3 was still a good benchmark to go by). There's nothing wrong with a new gaming PC if you can spend for it though, it's not a bad idea to retire your old PC at all since it is getting old.
There's no benefit to 4x4GB as all you'd be doing is filling up all your RAM slots, so 2x8GB is preferable because it will give you the same amount of total RAM but leave room in the future for extra RAM upgrades if needed. Not much of a difference between those two RAM speeds, they're right next to each other and won't affect gaming performance, just very slightly toward certain productivity applications.
There's this 2x8GB Kingston 2666MHz RAM that's slightly faster for the same price. While RAM speeds often don't matter, there's nothing wrong with getting higher speed RAM for the same price or just a few dollars more.
As for wifi, what router do you currently have? I'd recommend a wireless N and/or AC adapter depending on what kind of speeds you want to have and what your existing wifi equipment can do. For wifi N, I'd recommend this TP-Link wireless N adaptor ($22), it looks fairly reliable, Newegg and Amazon reviews average out to at least 4 out 5 stars from over 300 reviews.
Probably the Gigabyte G1 Gaming card. It's great for overclocking since it has three fans, will keep it cooler in comparison to most other 980 Ti cards.
The EVGA model is one of the more compact GTX 980 Ti cards available, and there are definitely larger and faster models from other manufacturers. In this article by Techreport, the EVGA model comes off as being one of the lesser performing GTX 980 Ti cards, but still better than the reference model.
Even newer and higher end models of the GTX 980 Ti exist now. For a premium, of course.
The best 980 Ti's are... in no particular order... Asus Matrix Platinum, Gigabyte G1, Zotac AMP! Extreme, EVGA Classified, EVGA K|NGP|NN and MSI Lightning. IMO the Zotac, Gigabyte and EVGA Classy all offer a good performance bump, without a huge cost increase. I have a Classified and love it, but the G1 seems to be a consistently high overclocker and is the cheapest of the bunch.
Modified list. Chose the EVGA Hybrid as it has come down in price and at $700 is a great option.
fifasnipe2224
Member
Looking to build a cheap PC for a wife.
Her wants:
So far this is what I have in mind:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6BtyMp
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6BtyMp/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($163.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($71.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($72.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Enermax ECA3253-PW ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.48 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($71.10 @ SuperBiiz)
Other: EVGA 570 Used Video Card (For now)
Total: $526.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-02 13:37 EST-0500
Thoughts?
Her wants:
- Be able to play GTA 5 and the new Star Wars Battlefront.
- A pink case
- A computer she can upgrade over time (So more uptodate CPU socket, RAM slots, PCIEx16, ect.)
- Price range of about $450 - $550.
So far this is what I have in mind:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6BtyMp
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6BtyMp/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($163.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($71.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($72.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Enermax ECA3253-PW ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.48 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($71.10 @ SuperBiiz)
Other: EVGA 570 Used Video Card (For now)
Total: $526.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-02 13:37 EST-0500
Thoughts?
Purple Cheeto
Member
Hello friends! I am looking to build a new pc in order to play FO4.
My current PC is super ancient and specs out at the following:
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.66 GHZ
This Motherboard.
Radeon 6670 with 1 GB RAM
8 GB of RAM
A bunch of hard drives.
This case.
I'm totally open to getting a new tower, motherboard, cpu etc. I figure I can just re-use my keyboard, monitors, mouse and hard drives for now.
I'm looking to spend under $1000. Any suggestions?
My current PC is super ancient and specs out at the following:
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.66 GHZ
This Motherboard.
Radeon 6670 with 1 GB RAM
8 GB of RAM
A bunch of hard drives.
This case.
I'm totally open to getting a new tower, motherboard, cpu etc. I figure I can just re-use my keyboard, monitors, mouse and hard drives for now.
I'm looking to spend under $1000. Any suggestions?
The Lamonster
Member
Thanks, curious why the bigger PSU though?
How about a build like this? it costs the same but has the newer Intel Skylake parts that is better if you want to consider future upgrades.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($186.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.20 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($72.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Apevia X-QPACK3-PK MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($55.98 @ Directron)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $494.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-02 14:23 EST-0500
Just include the GTX 570 that you already have.
How does this look?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($125.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($72.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($314.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.80 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $967.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-02 14:28 EST-0500
I'm not sure how much under $1000 you want to go, your wording seemed to imply the less the better? You could reuse your existing Antec 300 case, but it is fairly barebones and lacks cable management and USB 3.0 ports.
You should be able to run all of it together just fine, the rule with mismatching RAM is that the motherboard will automatically run all of it at the same lower speed. If you run into any compatibility issues, try testing each stick of the new RAM. If the new RAM seems to be problematic, you may need to reset BIOS settings or do a BIOS update. If all else fails, return the RAM and get 1333MHz instead.
Busta SMurk
Member
Thanks for the help y'all.
A couple more questions: Are micro cases OK to use for the most part? Will full size GPU's fit in them? Aftermarket CPU coolers? As I mentioned earlier, I don't have much space so I need a smaller tower, but don't want to gimp my build.
I was thinking this small case or, even something like this HTPC case would work. I'm getting a 4690K and will want to OC it in the future, and just want to make sure my case is compatible for aftermarket cooling solutions. I've never build a PC before, so I don't know what kind of issues to expect regarding this.
Also, I have a firewire soundcard (that I refuse to give up), and it seems mobo's don't have 1394 ports on them anymore, so I was wondering if a PCI card like this would be fine in one of the auxiliary slots of a mobo like this one?
A couple more questions: Are micro cases OK to use for the most part? Will full size GPU's fit in them? Aftermarket CPU coolers? As I mentioned earlier, I don't have much space so I need a smaller tower, but don't want to gimp my build.
I was thinking this small case or, even something like this HTPC case would work. I'm getting a 4690K and will want to OC it in the future, and just want to make sure my case is compatible for aftermarket cooling solutions. I've never build a PC before, so I don't know what kind of issues to expect regarding this.
Also, I have a firewire soundcard (that I refuse to give up), and it seems mobo's don't have 1394 ports on them anymore, so I was wondering if a PCI card like this would be fine in one of the auxiliary slots of a mobo like this one?
Nothing wrong with most mATX cases. Whether full size GPUs fit in them or not will depend on what specific case you're looking at. Same goes for CPU coolers. The Thermaltake Urban S1 takes CPU coolers up to 148mm so it's a bit limiting, but you should be able to fit a cooler like the Cryorig H7 Universal 120mm heatsink which is 145mm tall. The Urban S1 case only allows up to a 260mm long graphics card, which is more limiting but still somewhat ok to work around
The Silverstone GD09 case is more of the opposite. It has an even smaller restriction on CPU cooler height, but it's large enough in other dimensions to accommodate regular ATX motherboards and the longest graphics cards on the market.
As for that motherboard, no it will not work with that Firewire card. PCI and PCI-E are incompatible. You shouldn't go with an older PCI card anyway, you will want a PCI-E card for Firewire like this one.
Busta SMurk
Member
Your help has been appreciated, thank you.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
The Lamonster
Member
Is a firewire to USB adapter not a thing?
edit: stupid-sounding question at the top of the page with zero context. Do they make firewire to USB adapters or do you need a card to use firewire in modern systems?
edit: stupid-sounding question at the top of the page with zero context. Do they make firewire to USB adapters or do you need a card to use firewire in modern systems?
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