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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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vector824

Member
Bought some DDR 2400 ram. If I'm to understand before I plug this in I should go into my bios to find where I need to adjust speeds? When I plug these in they'll default to 1600 unless I OC them in the bios?

Should be under the XMP section. My Gigabyte mobo had a preset OC setting in there. You might have to adjust the timing manually... which I have no idea how to go about.

Edit: Also read the manual, it will tell you where to find it I'm certain.
 
I overclocked my CPU today, first time I ever fiddled with BIOS settings so I'm kinda nervous. If anyone here has experience with this sort of thing would they mind glancing over my PC readouts and checking if anything looks off?

PC specs:
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H
CPU: Intel i5 4670K
GPU: AMD R9 280 (Asus DirectCU II Top)
RAM: 2 x 4GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical DDR3-1600 UDIMM
CPU fan: Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW Rev.A
Case: Corsair 500R
PSU: Seasonic M12II 620
OS: Windows 10 64-bit

BIOS Changes:
changed CPU VCore from 'auto' to 1.2V
changed CPU VRIN Loadline Calibration from 'auto' to 'extreme'
changed CPU VRIN Current Protection from 'auto' to 'extreme'
changed CPU Clock Ratio from '33' gradually up to '44'.

Here are the HWInfo readouts, while running a 15 minute x264 stress test:

http://imgur.com/a/A6YNZ
 

Fracas

#fuckonami
After a year of ownership, I'm finally getting deeper into overclocking my GPU (a titan black). I'm happy with the slight OC I have, but I'm wondering if fan speed matters at all.

Normally, I kept a hard max temp of 83 degrees C. I'd always hit it in graphics heavy games. That was with the automatic fan settings, where it would max out at like 40% fan speed. I've adjusted the temp/fan curve to where it'll go as high as 70% speed (though the highest it went was like 65 in a test today), and my GPU doesn't even reach 70 degrees C now. Am I affecting the longevity of my card or is it nothing to worry about? Random guides I read all said it was fine, but I'd appreciate some thoughts.
 
Should be under the XMP section. My Gigabyte mobo had a preset OC setting in there. You might have to adjust the timing manually... which I have no idea how to go about.

Edit: Also read the manual, it will tell you where to find it I'm certain.

It was actually really easy. I enabled XMP and it automatically read my RAM.
 

Straxus

Member
Hey, Gaf!

I need a few quick tips, and suggestions on replacing a Noctua NH-L9a (92mmx14) fan.

I built a micro-atx pc for my sister about 1 1/2 -2 yrs, and apparently, the fan was under-powered for what I paired it with.

AMD FX-8320 125W (Noctua says 65 TDP limit)

Any suggestions on just fan replacements if possible.

Fan model: NF-A9x14
Mounting whole spacing: 82,5x82,5 mm

Currently eye-balling: Noctua NF-A9 (92mmx25/82,5x82,5 mm)
 

Toni

Member
I've been wanting to upgrade from my Radeon 7950 to a Radeon RX 480. I just made the shift to PC gaming after gaming all my life in PlayStation and I don't know much about how to build a PC much less how to change parts.

Question:

My CPU/APU, I take it, is a bit bad. Its an 3.10 GHz AMD A8-7600 Radeon R7. I can barely run Skyrim on this thing with a 7950 equipped. Will upgrading to the 480 force me to replace this?

It would be great if I didnt and all I would have to do is just swap the GPU cards and not have to worry about any extra hassles. I can look up how to swap GPU's on Youtube but I just want to know if upgrading would add any extra stuff to do. I would love the upgrade to be as painless as possible for a novice here XD
 
How's this look?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.53 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.85 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($58.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.95 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($38.95 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1121.20
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-28 22:21 EDT-0400


This is actually the 1070 I ordered.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814125871
 
So it's that time of year again where it's hot af

So, for reference, my CPU and Motherboard are 6 years old. The heat wrecks my CPU each year.

Should I get a liquid cooler for it? Would it be worth it?
 
How's this look?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($43.53 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.85 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($58.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($85.95 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($38.95 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1121.20
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-28 22:21 EDT-0400


This is actually the 1070 I ordered.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814125871

Looking good. This is the power draw I've calculated. http://outervision.com/b/1iREQZ. Not overclocked though.

ADDENDUM: Still okay when overclocked. http://outervision.com/b/5diRcz

And this is one of the rare few ones I see that uses Cryorig instead of that Evo 212. Nice!
 
Thanks :). So my 500w PSU should give me enough cushion?

Should be good. You're running 450W at 4.4Ghz CPU overclock and mild overclock on your GPU. http://outervision.com/b/5diRcz Mind you, those figures are what I presume is a "mild overclock", your expectation may vary. :p

although because your PSU is an 80 Plus Bronze, be mindful about overclocking it too hard. Or switch to an 80 Plus Gold PSU if you can squeeze a little bit more.
 
Should be good. You're running 450W at 4.4Ghz CPU overclock and mild overclock on your GPU. http://outervision.com/b/5diRcz Mind you, those figures are what I presume is a "mild overclock", your expectation may vary. :p

although because your PSU is an 80 Plus Bronze, be mindful about overclocking it too hard. Or switch to an 80 Plus Gold PSU if you can squeeze a little bit more.

Would I be better off just stepping up to this?

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/kz7CmG/evga-power-supply-210gq0650


First time builder here so I'll probably have about 1,000 questions when all this shit comes in.
 

vector824

Member
Would I be better off just stepping up to this?

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/kz7CmG/evga-power-supply-210gq0650


First time builder here so I'll probably have about 1,000 questions when all this shit comes in.

Yeah go for the 650w. I'd pull back on the i7 and go i5 unless you're doing heavy 3D/video rendering, because it's only around a 5% gain in gaming performance. But then again if you have the coin go for it. You might be happier with an M.2 SSD and an i5 over a SATA SSD and an i7 though. Just a thought. Looks solid. I've built a few now this year so PM me with any questions.
 
Yeah go for the 650w. I'd pull back on the i7 and go i5 unless you're doing heavy 3D/video rendering, because it's only around a 5% gain in gaming performance. But then again if you have the coin go for it. You might be happier with an M.2 SSD and an i5 over a SATA SSD and an i7 though. Just a thought. Looks solid. I've built a few now this year so PM me with any questions.

Mind touching on the differences on the m.2/i5 combo vs the data/i7 combo? I want something that boots as fast as possible.
 
Would I be better off just stepping up to this?

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/kz7CmG/evga-power-supply-210gq0650


First time builder here so I'll probably have about 1,000 questions when all this shit comes in.

Better. Much more breathing room.

Ask away. My recommendations are based on me being on this side of the world (South East Asia) so it may not gel well with where you're at, but I'll help when I can.

But the benefit of living here is that we already have the RX480 for a few days already. No mad rush with the 1080 or 1070 either, relatively speaking, it's a simple buy-off-the-counter. Being close to Taiwan has its benefits. :p
 

CHC

Member
So I've been testing out my new G1 1070, but I'm getting lower-than-expected FPS in a number of titles, based on benchmarks reported from reviews.

Rise of the Tomb Raider:

Benches say ~70 average, getting low 50s

Ryse:

Benches say high 70s, getting mid 50s

Witcher III:

Benches say high 60s, I'm getting high 50s to low 60s.

I'm playing at 1440p, with a 2500k clocked at 4.5 GHz. I don't know if my slightly older CPU accounts for so much frame loss, it's almost 20 FPS.

I'm also running only 8 GB of shitty 1333 MHz RAM. I have 16 GB of 2133 on the way. Could that be an issue also?

Obviously on my slighly older system I might expect to be like 5 - 7 FPS behind reviewer rigs, but the GPU is already overclocked from reference and I'm like 15 - 20 FPS behind the curve right now. Kinda bothersome.
 

CHC

Member
How would I be able to tell? Sorry

Doom is doing weird shit too. I'm getting like.... 55 FPS at 1080p, on Ultra. It's like it just won't go beyond that regardless of settings.

It hasn't budged from 53 C temps, but the GPU usage is at like 100% constantly in all these games I've been trying out.
 
I went up to 4.2ghz and had one freeze. I brought it down to 4ghz in the bios but RealTemp and CPUZ still say I'm hitting 4.2ghz. Ideas?

Also, on the CPU side of things, in RealTemp it says the Max I've hit is 72* on two of the cores with the other 2 topping out around 68/69. I've watched it and it only touches it and then comes back down. Anything to worry about or is that fine?

Ram worked out great.
GTX 1070 has worked out GREAT.
 

mosdl

Member
My current mobo is dying (the on board sound stopped working for example) and just snagged an EVGA 1070 SC, so its high time to replace it.

The box is an Fractal Design Define R4 with an Seasonic X-650 650W power supply (which is about 2 years old and should still be more than enough) and was thinking of replacing the current parts with this:

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TrVCyf

Any thoughts?
 

Iorv3th

Member
Not at all necessary. And buy a better cooler. It's time to stop recommending that thing.

SO I am going to order the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo for my 2600 i7 can slight overclock the nonk version but don't have anything but stock cooler (still works good but not good enough for any OC).

Most videos I watch they just wipe the cpu clean with rubbing alcohol and put a little thermal paste down, do any of you recommend tinning the cpu/heatsink? I know in the past I read a lot of stuff on tinning and putting it on both products and then wiping it off clean without alcohol so that it fills any micro gaps etc for more efficient contact.

Needed or not necessary?


Got it in and installed today. Temps don't go above 50 in Rise of the Tomb Raider. 20 degree or better from stock cooler. I would say for 30$ it was a good investment. Did a slight bclck boost and got all cores at 42.

I went up to 4.2ghz and had one freeze. I brought it down to 4ghz in the bios but RealTemp and CPUZ still say I'm hitting 4.2ghz. Ideas?

Also, on the CPU side of things, in RealTemp it says the Max I've hit is 72* on two of the cores with the other 2 topping out around 68/69. I've watched it and it only touches it and then comes back down. Anything to worry about or is that fine?

Ram worked out great.
GTX 1070 has worked out GREAT.

What CPU is it? That temp is fine. You might be hitting 4.2 because of boost clock/multiplier?
 
So I installed my 1080 today and was messing around with the OC stuff for the first time in my life since everyone said there was no way I could mess anything up... Well, I restarted my pc to see if it would fix my custom fan curve settings not taking and now my pc freezes on startup right when Skype auto boots. Never had a problem like this before with my 390. :(

All I can do from this point is manually turn off my pc but then it just happens all over again.

EDIT: I also started getting display driver crashes as well but they seemed to resolve themselves. Never had that before either.
 

knitoe

Member
So I installed my 1080 today and was messing around with the OC stuff for the first time in my life since everyone said there was no way I could mess anything up... Well, I restarted my pc to see if it would fix my custom fan curve settings not taking and now my pc freezes on startup right when Skype auto boots. Never had a problem like this before with my 390. :(

All I can do from this point is manually turn off my pc but then it just happens all over again.

EDIT: I also started getting display driver crashes as well but they seemed to resolve themselves. Never had that before either.

Did you select apply OC at Windows startup? If yes and the OC is unstable, what you are experiencing could happen. Next time, don't use that option until you are sure the OC is stable after running same tests. Until then, your PC will boot with the cards default speed.
 
Did you select apply OC at Windows startup? If yes and the OC is unstable, what you are experiencing could happen. Next time, don't use that option until you are sure the OC is stable after running same tests. Until then, your PC will boot with the cards default speed.

Alright, so I ended up booting into safe mode and uninstalling afterburner from there and that seems to have fixed it. I had both afterburner and Precision installed. I don't know if that messed with anything or not... Anyhow I'm going to stick with precision for a bit and see how it goes. I just fixed my fan curve problem as well, it's a little different on the graph than afterburner which is what I was using before and I didn't think to check where the 0 value was on the graph lol.

One thing is for sure, I will never touch another button that says anything like boot with these settings on startup until I have a very stable OC. lol
 

Saintruski

Unconfirmed Member
Alright, I need some suggestions on good X99 motherboards. Well just good manufacturers outside out of EVGA. And anyone but asus.

I'm getting the run around with ASUS's God awful customer support trying to RMA my motherboard.

My only requirements is good customer support, RMA, warranty, and build quality. I'm not abig fan of EVGAs BIOS (though most my components are EVGA) I owned one of their x99 classifieds before getting rid of it.

Thanks in advance

So I've been testing out my new G1 1070, but I'm getting lower-than-expected FPS in a number of titles, based on benchmarks reported from reviews.

Rise of the Tomb Raider:

Benches say ~70 average, getting low 50s

Ryse:

Benches say high 70s, getting mid 50s

Witcher III:

Benches say high 60s, I'm getting high 50s to low 60s.

I'm playing at 1440p, with a 2500k clocked at 4.5 GHz. I don't know if my slightly older CPU accounts for so much frame loss, it's almost 20 FPS.

I'm also running only 8 GB of shitty 1333 MHz RAM. I have 16 GB of 2133 on the way. Could that be an issue also?

Obviously on my slighly older system I might expect to be like 5 - 7 FPS behind reviewer rigs, but the GPU is already overclocked from reference and I'm like 15 - 20 FPS behind the curve right now. Kinda bothersome.

It's your cpu, not the ram.
 
I'm torn on the RX480. Pending pricing on 4GB version today I am interested in picking one up but I've just been offered a used 970 Strix for £150.

I get that RX480 is mid 970 - 980 but I am concerned about the DX12 equation. I read that AMD is better equipped to handle DX12 due to something called Asynchronous Shaders and that older Nvidia cards are limited.

I don't care about 3.5GB / 0.5GB RAM split or any kind of vendor wars. If I didn't have option of 970 it would be no questions asked. I'm currently running a 1GB 750 non Ti so I am desperately in need of an upgrade.

As it stands £200~ RX480 vs £150 970?
 

Joco

Member
Does Windows update "hang" for anyone else? Like it says it will be downloading the latest update for Windows Defender and it will be stuck at 0%. Happens all the time for me. Windows 10.
 

BasicMath

Member
Does Windows update "hang" for anyone else? Like it says it will be downloading the latest update for Windows Defender and it will be stuck at 0%. Happens all the time for me. Windows 10.
Oh yeah, that has been ongoing since forever. I remember that being an issue with XP (Updating through IE) and 7. In fact, I had that issue a week ago in Win 8. Just google it and try one of the workaround/fixes. Waiting a few hours/days usually fixes the issue in any case.
 
I'm torn on the RX480. Pending pricing on 4GB version today I am interested in picking one up but I've just been offered a used 970 Strix for £150.

I get that RX480 is mid 970 - 980 but I am concerned about the DX12 equation. I read that AMD is better equipped to handle DX12 due to something called Asynchronous Shaders and that older Nvidia cards are limited.

I don't care about 3.5GB / 0.5GB RAM split or any kind of vendor wars. If I didn't have option of 970 it would be no questions asked. I'm currently running a 1GB 750 non Ti so I am desperately in need of an upgrade.

As it stands £200~ RX480 vs £150 970?

How would anyone know before reviews? Wait 5 hours.


If I have a LGA 1155 mobo that needs replacing, my choices are pretty slim on newegg right?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-157-293 Would that be the only viable option?
Also if I wanted to replace my hd7950 for 1080p gaming only would a r9 380 work just fine? I know about the 480, but if I can find a r9 for cheap after 480 releases would that work just fine for like 1-3 more years?

Don't do it, it's an old card now and the RX 470 should be a lot better if you are on a budget. As for the longevity, 3 years is a long time but I guess it depends if you are ok with lowered settings, if yes then sure it can last that long.
 

Knch

Member
Hey, Gaf!

I need a few quick tips, and suggestions on replacing a Noctua NH-L9a (92mmx14) fan.

I built a micro-atx pc for my sister about 1 1/2 -2 yrs, and apparently, the fan was under-powered for what I paired it with.

AMD FX-8320 125W (Noctua says 65 TDP limit)

Any suggestions on just fan replacements if possible.

Fan model: NF-A9x14
Mounting whole spacing: 82,5x82,5 mm

Currently eye-balling: Noctua NF-A9 (92mmx25/82,5x82,5 mm)

Won't work, you'll have to get a bigger cooler. (But if you really want to try just a fan, get a high airflow Delta, which will be LOUD! (but probably still not enough))
 

kraspkibble

Permabanned.
so i'm waiting on my new PC parts to arrive. my 16GB DDR4 sticks are 3200. is it just a matter of setting them to this in the BIOS? i know with my DDR3 sticks i had to adjust them to 1600 because they were at 1333. or because the speeds are so high do i need to play about with voltages or something to get that speed?
 

TokiDoki

Member
So I've been testing out my new G1 1070, but I'm getting lower-than-expected FPS in a number of titles, based on benchmarks reported from reviews.

I'm playing at 1440p, with a 2500k clocked at 4.5 GHz. I don't know if my slightly older CPU accounts for so much frame loss, it's almost 20 FPS.

I'm also running only 8 GB of shitty 1333 MHz RAM. I have 16 GB of 2133 on the way. Could that be an issue also?

Obviously on my slighly older system I might expect to be like 5 - 7 FPS behind reviewer rigs, but the GPU is already overclocked from reference and I'm like 15 - 20 FPS behind the curve right now. Kinda bothersome.

Ya both the CPU and the ram clocks . Those benchmarks are mostly with Skylake i7 , which really seems to boost alot of min/avg FPS . Apparently 2500k already starving the GTX 1070 . I'm on 2500k 4Ghz too , I guess I'm already satisfied with maxing out Crysis 3 running at 80-100fps 1080p.
 

Kudo

Member
What's the best way to clean LCD monitor? I have Dell so it has an anti-glare, so nothing with alcohol I think, don't want to dissolve the coating.
I tried just water with microfiber but that left some streaks that are noticeable against white.
 

kennah

Member
What's the best way to clean LCD monitor? I have Dell so it has an anti-glare, so nothing with alcohol I think, don't want to dissolve the coating.
I tried just water with microfiber but that left some streaks that are noticeable against white.
Microfiber no water.
 

vector824

Member
Mind touching on the differences on the m.2/i5 combo vs the data/i7 combo? I want something that boots as fast as possible.

Sure! First of all there's a pricing difference; the 950 Pro is $100 more than the 850 Evo and the i7 is ~$110 more than an i5. So if you go i5/950 Pro you'll save around $10.

The biggest bottle neck you'll see for today's current tech is in the HD sector, mostly because of data transfer rates over SATA, this is where the M.2 connector comes in. The M.2 connector effectively runs up to 3.94Gb/s versus SATA III 600MB/s for transfer speeds. You can see that's a HUGE difference. There's also big read/write speed advantage with the 950 Pro vs the 850 Evo, 2200MB/s vs 550MB/s read and 900MB/s (256GB) vs 520MB/s (256GB) write, which equals faster boot times also.

TLDR; You only see a 5% decrease in gaming performance for a 670% INCREASE in data transfer speeds with an i5/950pro combo. Which is why I say go for the 950 Pro, it'll make your computer FEEL faster, because it is.

Sources:
950 Pro review
950 Pro vs. 850 Series

PS. Now if you can afford to go i7/950 Pro combo then go for it. But you're paying a premium for a CPU that's not all that much faster.
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
Anyone have experience with Roccat Keyboards? One of my co-workers gave me a Roccat Ryos MK Pro and I've been using it to type at work (I love it) but haven't tried it out for gaming. I currently use a Razer Black Widow Ultimate (the newer one, with the green switches). Just wondering if I should swap em out and use the Roccat for gaming. Opinions?
 

e90Mark

Member
Anyone have experience with Roccat Keyboards? One of my co-workers gave me a Roccat Ryos MK Pro and I've been using it to type at work (I love it) but haven't tried it out for gaming. I currently use a Razer Black Widow Ultimate (the newer one, with the green switches). Just wondering if I should swap em out and use the Roccat for gaming. Opinions?

I have't used Roccat anything, but it really comes down to personal preference. One won't be definitely better over the other.

What I do like about the Roccat is that it uses Cherry switches. I believe the new Razer keyboards have a custom mechanical switch.
 
Got it in and installed today. Temps don't go above 50 in Rise of the Tomb Raider. 20 degree or better from stock cooler. I would say for 30$ it was a good investment. Did a slight bclck boost and got all cores at 42.



What CPU is it? That temp is fine. You might be hitting 4.2 because of boost clock/multiplier?

i5 4670k.
 

Waaghals

Member
I'm thinking of buying a high resolution GSYNC monitor.

I'm thinking 1440p and at least 120hz.

Any recommendations?


Edit:
Wait, it gets worse. I don't have a tv, so i'm going to need HDMI input. I realize this isn't ideal and that it narrows down the selection somewhat.
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
I have't used Roccat anything, but it really comes down to personal preference. One won't be definitely better over the other.

What I do like about the Roccat is that it uses Cherry switches. I believe the new Razer keyboards have a custom mechanical switch.

That's what I figured. Thanks.
 

LogicStep

Member
Anyone use a Mionix Castor mouse? I love it but I think mine might have an issue. The scroll wheel, when you scroll downwards, is noisy. I'm not sure if that's how they are or if I should get it exchanged. I haven't checked many video reviews on it but the few I've seen just rave about the other features and don't go over the wheel.
 
Got my new PSU. Went from 600w bronze EVGA to a 550w G2 gold from EVGA. Still making the clinking type buzz noise so I'm gonna presume it wasn't the PSU directly making the noise, maybe something hitting off the sleeving of the cables. Or I just have horrible luck.
 

LogicStep

Member
Oh and another question. I have my PC connected to a UPS. What is the correct way of doing things? Should I turn off the UPS when not in use like if I'm not in the house? Or does it not matter? You guys just leave your PC connected to the power all the time?
 

rondilivise

Neo Member
Finally finished ordering the main parts, now to wait for a good deal on a 1070.

How did I do overall? hopefully I'll get everything before the long weekend!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $212.00)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $34.30)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $96.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $54.07)
Storage: PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $45.93)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE P400 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $55.00)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $53.08)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (Purchased For $34.97)
Total: $585.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-29 09:58 EDT-0400
 
I'm thinking of buying a high resolution GSYNC monitor.

I'm thinking 1440p and at least 120hz.

Any recommendations?


Edit:
Wait, it gets worse. I don't have a tv, so i'm going to need HDMI input. I realize this isn't ideal and that it narrows down the selection somewhat.

What's your price range? This is the best you can get and meets all your criteria:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MSOND8C/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Now if you wanna go Gsync/ultrawide/100 hz refresh that's another conversation...
 
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