• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.

wowzors

Member
So, I'm unfortunately looking at PC upgrades. I currently have the following:

Intel Core i5-4670k
Asus H97-PRO
16GB G.Skill Ripjaws X 2400MHz
EVGA GTX 970 SC
120GB Samsung 840 EVO
500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Corsair RM750

Considering the following upgrades:

Intel Core i7-6800K
ASUS X99 Sabertooth
32GB G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200MHz
EVGA GTX 970 SC
500GB Samsung 950 Pro
500GB Samsung 850 EVO
Corsair RM750

I'd be hoping to upgrade to the Titan P (I play at 4K) at release depending on the price. Is the 6800K a smart choice, or would I be better served getting the 6700K and putting the savings somewhere else in the build?

Little input here, I just did an upgrade similar went from 2500k to 6800k.

The 6800k doesn't overclock very well, you are going to want a water cooler like the h110i to dissipate some of the heat if you plan on going above 4ghz. 6 cores is quite a bit faster outside if gaming but not much in gaming.

I went with 32gb of 3200 as well but was unable to hit 3200 and had to stick with 3000 ( I used tridentZ,maybe ripjaw will perform better)

The 950 pro I only got 256 gb was easy to set up and everything boot times didn't change but read and writes are faster.

I still have a 970 waiting in the ti or titan also.

I don't know about the motherboard but it looks good, some new x99 boards were release so maybe look at them if any new features catch your eye.
 

matmanx1

Member
I'm looking at upgrading my current Sandy Bridge rig to a Skylake rig. Right now I am running my PC through my Onkyo receiver using an optical audio port. Does anyone have a Z170 chipset board recommendation that uses an optical audio output?
 

WadeitOut

Member
So I got my 1080 STRIX yesterday and my Ultrawide ASUS ROG today

LNSugxd.jpg


8sljze4.jpg


9C3OvWw.jpg
 
Played around with NVIDIA DSR and had a bit of a taste of 4K gaming in my GTX 970 in my desktop which is almost one year old since it's been built.

I think I'm liking what I'm seeing in Skyrim, as the image quality has became so good, even without enabling MSAA or FXAA. I can't seem to maintain a steady 60 FPS anymore when I turn up the MSAA to 4x or more to make the edges even more smooth, or enable ambient occlusion injection. I could do all of them at once when I was playing at 1080p. Didn't feel like enabling FXAA when downsampling is in effect.

Would it be possible that adding a second 970 gives me back enough headroom for it (and/or the Special Edition that's coming soon) to go back to a locked 60? For reference, when MSAA, FXAA, and AO injection are all turned on I can only maintain FPS above 30 at all times, but not 60 by a long shot.
 

Vuze

Member
So I got my 1080 STRIX yesterday and my Ultrawide ASUS ROG today
Sexy!

Ultrawide VA/OLED HDR >100hz WHEN

Played around with NVIDIA DSR and had a bit of a taste of 4K gaming in my GTX 970 in my desktop which is almost one year old since it's been built.

I think I'm liking what I'm seeing in Skyrim, as the image quality has became so good, even without enabling MSAA or FXAA. I can't seem to maintain a steady 60 FPS anymore when I turn up the MSAA to 4x or more to make the edges even more smooth, or enable ambient occlusion injection. I could do all of them at once when I was playing at 1080p. Didn't feel like enabling FXAA when downsampling is in effect.

Would it be possible that adding a second 970 gives me back enough headroom for it (and/or the Special Edition that's coming soon) to go back to a locked 60? For reference, when MSAA, FXAA, and AO injection are all turned on I can only maintain FPS above 30 at all times, but not 60 by a long shot.
While Skyrim OG does support SLI, I would advise against using it as long as there is a stronger single card solution out there. Maybe look into a 1070 once they are readily available?
Depending on where you are located, you should make a fair chunk of money by selling your 970 and maybe look at roughly the cost of a second 970 + 50~100 bucks for a 1070.
 

ThisOne

Member
What's the cheapest/best way to get a legitimate copy of Windows for a brand new build?

Also wondering if there are specific brands of GPUs that should be avoided (Sapphire, XFX, MSI, etc.)?
 
Apologies if this has already been discussed to death. Is there a good summary of "advanced" monitor features, e.g. g-sync, 144Hz, 1440p, 4k, etc.? Last time I purchased a monitor, all I needed to worry about was making sure it had the correct HDMI port and was 1080p.

I don't really have a sense of which of these upgrades really matter to gamers, how well supported they are, etc.
 

louiedog

Member
I built a new PC about 18 months ago and put 8 GB of RAM in it. I want to add more and it's obviously a little cheaper per GB to go to 24 (2x8) instead of 16 (2x4), but I'm not sure it's worth it. I don't do any heavy RAM tasks like audio or video editing. I do run a couple of virtual machines here and there, but they're pretty lightweight and 2 GB is plenty, and they aren't running when I play games or anything. I don't plan to upgrade to a new system for a good 3 years or so.

So, basically, will I just be wasting my money by going to 24 GB RAM or do you think I'll eventually outgrow 16 GB?
 

Erekiddo

Member
Asked in a couple threads, hoping to get an answer before one of these ships. lol

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 SC GAMING ACX 3.0 or MSI GAMING GeForce GTX 1080.

Which card should I keep? Got a preorder in for both.
 

Vuze

Member
Apologies if this has already been discussed to death. Is there a good summary of "advanced" monitor features, e.g. g-sync, 144Hz, 1440p, 4k, etc.? Last time I purchased a monitor, all I needed to worry about was making sure it had the correct HDMI port and was 1080p.

I don't really have a sense of which of these upgrades really matter to gamers, how well supported they are, etc.
Gsync/FreeSync are great and imo a must-have for any new gaming monitor purchase. Note that Gsync is propietary to Nvidia graphics cards and FreeSync is currently only supported by AMD cards. However, if Nvidia ever sees a reason to, they can support FreeSync as well - in addition to Gsync.
Coming from a fixed refresh 1080p60 monitor, Gsync has elevated my PC gaming experience a lot - no need to worry about screen tearing or hitting native refresh rate, no trade off between input lag or "full" images; set your graphic quality settings to a level you are comfortable with a roll with it. Compatibility isn't much of a concern here; and should you come across a title that spazzes out because of it you can disable it for that specific one with ease.
I have no experience with FreeSync but word is it is a bit inferior in regards to variable refresh rates (for Gsync it's 30-144/165/max refresh). Upside: Monitors are cheaper by quite a huge margin.

High Refresh (>60Hz) is fantastic too, you'll be amazed by the extra smoothness that >80fps brings into games. Your desktop experience will be much smoother and easier on the eyes too at 100+. Support depends on the game/engine. Most games from the past years I played support high refresh. It's not much of a concern if a game doesn't though, you just won't be able to benefit from the potential extra smoothness.

1440p/4K are just higher resolutions. More space to work with on desktop, crisper image quality in games. Only crappy console ports by certain Japanese publishers who think they can
(and unfortunately do)
get away with the lack for arbitrary resolution support cannot really take advantage of this. You can of course still play games that don't support your native resolution on your monitor either in window mode (pixel perfect, less "immersive") or fullscreen (stretched, so a bit blurry).

Maybe I should add 21:9 AR too. I have no experience with it but it definitely is a hot topic in the gaming monitor space right now as well. Support for 21:9 is quite hit or miss from what I read but there is a dedicated community coming up with fixes for the AA(A) games that lack support most of the time. As with the previous points, you can still play games that don't support 21:9 on your monitor. You will simply get black bars on the right side in fullscreen.

Bear in mind that both, high refresh and higher resolutions require a meaty rig. Would recommend a 980ti/1070 or higher to take full advantage of a 1440p144+ or 4k60 monitor. My 970 served me well for the past year at 1440p but it definitely is getting long in the tooth since earlier this year.
I'd say 1440p is the current sweetspot in terms of IQ/framerate ratio and the current state of GPU horsepower. Gsync helps to mitigate framerate inconsistencies and doesn't eat up any performance since the monitor has a seperate module for all things related to that.

As for panel technologies... that's up to your budget and preference. Currently, there are only TN/IPS Gsync monitors anyway. High end VA panels are coming up within the next months and will make there way into new pricey monitors ;)

Depending on your needs, you should make sure your new monitor offers a HDMI port. DisplayPort is the future for PC monitors but HDMI will remain the standard for TV/console. The older (last year and before) Gsync monitors only offer DisplayPort.
 
Do you guys have laptop suggestions? My Acer Aspire M5-481PT is starting to fall apart--literally. I occasionally open it to dust the components out and a lot of the plastic bits that the screws screw into have broken. The battery is about an hour and a half and I actually can't use it with the CD drive installed because of a power problem. I looked into getting a new battery because it's still a great laptop, nice and light, key spacing very good for my larger hands, and still plays a bunch of games well even if I have to turn down the settings to low.

I don't want to go full gaming laptop, because I'd rather use my laptop for work on the go and I don't want to break the bank on a new laptop. But I would also like to be able to enjoy games while I'm away from my primary computer. I'd make my upper limit $500 but I'd rather try and get something closer to $300. Any ideas?
 
If anyone could help with some recommendations on this, much LUV. So a friend is looking to buy a laptop for college and has come across these three laptops:

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

Option 4

He'd be using it for your typical college things, so it needs to be good for multitasking. He would also like to do some light gaming on it, so ultra settings for games are not a priority. And he would like to do some audio mixing/composing.

Budget ~$900 - $1,000 --- Also keep in mind that he'll get $150 off because he's going into college. These are 4 options out of a list of laptops that have this sale for pre-college students.
 

Decado

Member
I'm torn. Currently gaming at 1080p on my 46" passive 3d tv. I want to upgrade to a 4k tv, but worry that there isn't enough content to justify the price at this stage and no pc hardware really suits 4k gaming yet.

I want to upgrade or get a new pc. Given my current specs, What is recommended? For an upgrade I'm thinking rx 480 or gtx 1070. Would my rig support either of those cards assuming they fit?

Current System specs (almost 4 years old):

Case: Bitfenix Prodigy mITX Mini-ITX
Graphics: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 OC 980MHZ 2GB
Mobo: Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI
Cpu: Intel Core i5 3570K @ 4.2
RAM: Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 Vengeance Lowprofile 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24
Cooling: Cooler Master GeminII S524 CPU Heatsink
Cooling: Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120MM Case Fan 1200 RPM
Hdd: Western Digital 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM
Hdd: Samsung 830 Series 128GB ssd
psu: Antec HCG-620M 620W
 
My G1 1070 arrived today. There was a slight hiccup in finishing the build:

6SzYHCu.jpg


It wouldn't budge. Had to remove one of the H100i's fan's, install the card, then the fan slipped right back in:

rzCSmIh.jpg


About 1 mm clearance. It's like these parts were meant to be:

EEO3vFB.jpg




Glad I went with mITX. The Nano S was a really easy case to build in. I've been dying to finally play Starcraft 2 (not that demanding, I know) and I get a locked 144 framerate with Gsync on and Ultra settings. Absolutely incredible coming from an old Core 2 Duo and GTX 285. Couldn't be happier with this little thing:

UxfqTnB.jpg



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($159.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($317.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($196.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($419.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Dell S2716DG 27.0" 144Hz Monitor ($537.00 @ Adorama)
Total: $2137.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-06 20:14 EDT-0400
 
My G1 1070 arrived today. There was a slight hiccup in finishing the build:

Very nice and not far off from what I've got.

I finally settled on thiss build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($345.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($419.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($54.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Samsung U28D590D 28.0" 60Hz Monitor ($399.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1888.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-06 22:06 EDT-0400

All the parts are in hand except for the 1070, the ram, and the monitor. Hoping to get it built next week.
 
Here's a start:

Changed the RAM to 8gb (you wont need any more than that) @ 3000mhz, better mobo for an upgraded memory clock and CPU if you want to add a K processor in the future, a 500W PSU, 120gb SSD and 1tb HDD, a decent case, an extra fan, all for under your budget. You'll be set on this build for awhile.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.00 @ Umart)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($178.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.00 @ PLE Computers)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Deepcool TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($82.00 @ IJK)
Case Fan: NZXT RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($13.00 @ PLE Computers)
Total: $799.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-07 03:57 AEST+1000

+ RX480 GPU @ $419 AUD

Damn. You're the best.

Thank you so much! Will purchase this weekend.
 

raidersx

Member
Looking to start my first ITX build but need suggestions on ITX cases that aren't a royal pain to build in and don't cost an arm and a leg!
Would like to put a single 1070 in it so that has to somehow fit; but I'd like to keep it as small as possible. Also I'm in the EU.

And what'd be an affordable ITX motherboard if I'm not looking to OC? 1151 socket.


EDIT: wow it's my first time being at the top of anything, HYPE.

Just built one with cooler master elite 130, not a bad case for $40 I have a non modular PSU and made the cables fit. It would of been a lot easier with a modular one but not terrible. My 1070 fits perfectly with plenty of room to spare.

JM1LVTX.jpg
[/IMG]
0Pb5ZBc.jpg
[/IMG]
yipZrjU.jpg
[/IMG]
 

Buggy Loop

Member
Im kind of considering upgrading my old 1090T AMD processur, old guy has been a good lil soldier but i think its limiting many games.

I was wondering, if i dont ever use other PCI slots outside of the GPU and no crazy overclocking (no intel k processor anyway), why wouldnt i go with ITX?

ITX cases have become so small, im looking at the silverstone Raven's RVZ02 for example, makes me want to switch from mid towers to small form factor.

It would not be for the TV (although, it makes it much more feasible in the future if i lose the gaming chamber to a future baby -_-; ),

Do ITX mobos have bad power phases?
 

WadeitOut

Member
Even in my H440 with my STRIX I had to put it in past the drive bay area before I could fit the card in for the PCI-E slot lol. Apparently it's longer than the MSI Gaming X I had before it.
 
i spent three hours looking at parts and remaking my own build with the upgrades I wanted. At the very end I took a look at the motherboard again and noticed it doesn't support DDR4 3000. So I basically have to start over. To demotivated from that though.
two weeks later, I made another build. how is this? $0 are things I already own

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/fmgd6X

oh, what thermal paste should I buy, or just use the included one
 
Hi GAF! Please help me to shatter my unrealistic dreams about low-power low-end gaming PC :p

Currently I have a mini-ITX machine which is powered by a whooping 160W custom PSU. My current processor is Intel Pentium G840 (Sandy Bridge) with reported 65W power consumption. I chose this CPU just because of its low power consumption, and I understood that I won't be able to equip a dedicated graphics card with my PSU so I have to rely on Intel HD Graphics.

Today I stumbled on a craigslist on a fairly cheap Intel Pentium G2010 (Ivy Bridge) with the same performance (CPU clock is the same, CPU performance is a bit higher, GPU core is a bit slower) but with 55W power consumption. I wonder if I can "upgrade" the CPU and install a low-end passive-cooled graphics card. Will I have some benefits aside from freeing up 1 Gb of shared RAM?
 
Just built one with cooler master elite 130, not a bad case for $40 I have a non modular PSU and made the cables fit. It would of been a lot easier with a modular one but not terrible. My 1070 fits perfectly with plenty of room to spare.

I was about to use this case, but pcpartpicker only showed watercooling for my cpu heatsink. what do you have?
 

ISee

Member
Hi GAF! Please help me to shatter my unrealistic dreams about low-power low-end gaming PC :p

Currently I have a mini-ITX machine which is powered by a whooping 160W custom PSU. My current processor is Intel Pentium G840 (Sandy Bridge) with reported 65W power consumption. I chose this CPU just because of its low power consumption, and I understood that I won't be able to equip a dedicated graphics card with my PSU so I have to rely on Intel HD Graphics.

Today I stumbled on a craigslist on a fairly cheap Intel Pentium G2010 (Ivy Bridge) with the same performance (CPU clock is the same, CPU performance is a bit higher, GPU core is a bit slower) but with 55W power consumption. I wonder if I can "upgrade" the CPU and install a low-end passive-cooled graphics card. Will I have some benefits aside from freeing up 1 Gb of shared RAM?

Might work with something like the Palit GeForce GTX 750 Ti KalmX. The calculated power consumption is around 90W under load

System in IDLE = 121 W (with i7-3960X Extreme)
System Wattage with GPU in FULL Stress = 199W
Difference (GPU load) = 78W
Add average IDLE wattage ~10W
Subjective obtained GPU power consumption = ~88 Watts

Of course that's already very close to your maximum and doesn't factor in the rest of your system. Also your PSU will most probably not be able to deliver constant 160W etc. So there is no guarantee for working probably under load, but down clocking the GPU and decreasing the Power limit (with tools like afterburner) might bring GPU power consumption further down...
Performance wise, yes going from an Ivy/sandybridge pentium iGPU to the 750Ti is a huge step up.
 
Might work with something like the Palit GeForce GTX 750 Ti KalmX. The calculated power consumption is around 90W under load



Of course that's already very close to your maximum and doesn't factor in the rest of your system. Also your PSU will most probably not be able to deliver constant 160W etc. So there is no guarantee for working probably under load, but down clocking the GPU and decreasing the Power limit (with tools like afterburner) might bring GPU power consumption further down...
Performance wise, yes going from an Ivy/sandybridge pentium iGPU to the 750Ti is a huge step up.

Hmm, considering that this thing won't fit in my case, it would be better for me to just buy a new case alongside with at least 250W PSU. The card seems nice for what it's worth, though, and downclocking isn't something I've ever thought of. Thanks!
 
Hm, weird. Ever since I installed my new processor, motherboard and ram my PC is having weird crashes. Programs not starting or shutting down properly and random 100% CPU usage once. RIP SSD? I dunno.
 

Yopis

Member
Have all the parts for build. Quick question though, what tools would I need to complete build? Can I buy a kit or anything with all tools needed? Want to make sure I'm covered before putting this together on weekend.
 
Have all the parts for build. Quick question though, what tools would I need to complete build? Can I buy a kit or anything with all tools needed? Want to make sure I'm covered before putting this together on weekend.

You don't really need particular tools; maybe one of those anti-static bracelet if you want to be 100% safe.

Depending on your case you might need a screwdriver. Everything else is just plain and simple connecting thing with your hands xD
 

kraspkibble

Permabanned.
Have all the parts for build. Quick question though, what tools would I need to complete build? Can I buy a kit or anything with all tools needed? Want to make sure I'm covered before putting this together on weekend.

all i used was a star screwdriver, isopropyl alcohol wipes, and a led torch.

the alcohol wipes are just to remove thermal paste if you need to. i thought i put too much on my CPU so wiped it off and reapplied. everything should just slide, screw, and clip into place.
 

e90Mark

Member
I want to make the jump to 144hz, but would like to stay at 1080p, since I don't want to upgrade everything to make a substantial impact into 1440p. Is this still a great 144hz monitor for the money ($230)? It's been out for awhile, any word of new one coming out?

Asus VG248QE 24.0" 144Hz Monitor

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/rkphP6/asus-monitor-vg248qe

Still good. Supports Lightboost and has a display port. Asus is releasing a 180hz and 240hz 1080p monitor. They were announced at Computex, but no actual date.
 

DamSea

Member
Excuse me if this has been asked, For anyone familiar with this case.

But what slim optical drive (Blu-ray) would anyone suggest for the Node 804 and did it require much modification to get it to align with the exterior of the case?

Also an additional question, when used for gaming, were the case fans sufficient or did you add additional fans? I would like to place a 1070 inside.

Thanks in advance to anyone with experience with this case.
 

Banjo

Member
Hi guys!
I guess this is the right place to ask. I build a PC with a i7 6700k and a 212 Evo, but I'm not sure about the temps.
Running the UE4 editor, the cpu goes to full load, but the temps doesn't seem right.
One core goes about 80c max, and other stays at 65c max.
Is that difference between cores ok?? What about those max temps?
 

beinfilms

Member
Ok, because Amazon fucked me over at the last minute (They told me today that the Antec Three Hundred Two that was supposed to come tonight wouldn't get here until next Wednesday), I need to make a snap decision about what case to get. I know that the Corsair Carbide 200R works with my machine, and is only $35 with mail-in rebate at my nearest Microcenter. Are there any serious downsides to it? Any reason I should be looking at something else?

Ok, never mind. I guess I'll have to find a different one.
 

louiedog

Member
Ok, because Amazon fucked me over at the last minute (They told me today that the Antec Three Hundred Two that was supposed to come tonight wouldn't get here until next Wednesday), I need to make a snap decision about what case to get. I know that the Corsair Carbide 200R works with my machine, and is only $35 with mail-in rebate at my nearest Microcenter. Are there any serious downsides to it? Any reason I should be looking at something else?

That's my case. I like it. It was really easy to build in and manage my cables. If you're worried about dust know that it doesn't have screens on the side/top vents so you'll have to take care of that if you think it'll be an issue.

For the price I'm extremely happy with it.
 

beinfilms

Member
That's my case. I like it. It was really easy to build in and manage my cables. If you're worried about dust know that it doesn't have screens on the side/top vents so you'll have to take care of that if you think it'll be an issue.

For the price I'm extremely happy with it.

Thanks for the advice. After some further research, I've discovered that despise my edit, the non-windowed model is still in stock (which is fine, because I don't see any need for a window, anyway)

How does it compare to the NZXT S340? I've pretty much narrowed it down to those two, so I'd greatly appreciate any help.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom