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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Bloodember

Member
Would this be a good PSU to get? Corsair TX550M. Going by that tier list it's at the top (I think? It's a TXM right? And I think it's a 2017 one? I saw on eBay an old TXM that had yellow text not the black/grey of that one).

I plugged my system into a power supply calculator and even overestimated my stuff (like how my GPU is factory overclocked but I pushed it past to where my system says it gets even in boost mode, and said I run it 24/7 gaming) and it says I use 470W and recommends an EVGA BQ 650W but I kind of don't want an EVGA PSU.

I'd rather not have to spend more on another PSU, especially when I got the EVGA one I was told it would be fine (but obviously it isn't). Are there any around that price, £64 (or lower), that people could recommend?
Yes that corsair will work just fine. Don't get either if those two seasonic's mentioned above, they are both tier 4 and not recommended for gaming PC's.
 

Zomba13

Member
(earlier post)
Would this be a good PSU to get? Corsair TX550M. Going by that tier list it's at the top (I think? It's a TXM right? And I think it's a 2017 one? I saw on eBay an old TXM that had yellow text not the black/grey of that one).

I plugged my system into a power supply calculator and even overestimated my stuff (like how my GPU is factory overclocked but I pushed it past to where my system says it gets even in boost mode, and said I run it 24/7 gaming) and it says I use 470W and recommends an EVGA BQ 650W but I kind of don't want an EVGA PSU.

I'd rather not have to spend more on another PSU, especially when I got the EVGA one I was told it would be fine (but obviously it isn't). Are there any around that price, £64 (or lower), that people could recommend?


Think I've decided on the TX650M. I don't care about modular or not and looking at Amazon the 650W version while not in stock from Amazon right now does let you buy it for £68.99 which I'm fine with paying a little more and waiting (apparently 1-4 weeks) for a bit more wattage headroom. I've been going through a list on a price comparison website just looking at all 550W+ PSUs and working my way up the price and comparing them to the LTT tier list and I think this is my best bet for a Tier 1 PSU. Thank you guys for the help and potential PSUs you to look at. Still open to better ones if anyone can offer.

(full system specs if it'll help. The stuff I put into the PSU calculator site)
i5-4670K (currently at the stock speeds)
GTX1060 KFA2 (Galax) EXOC Core Clock: 1556MHz Boost Clock: 1771MHz but really reaches more like 1900MH boost clock)
16GB (4x4GB DDR3)
1x 200mm fan
4x 120mm fan
1x Corsair H50-1 closed loop CPU watercooler
2x Toshiba 3TB 3.5" SATA-III Hard Drive - 7200RPM 64MB Cache
1x SSD
Gaming keyboard and mouse
 

FHIZ

Member
Is there a go-to program that's best at controlling fan speed?

I've got an ASUS motherboard so AI Suite III came with it, but it's being real weird. I've got two chassis fans in a splitter connected to a head on my MB, and every now and then, like when I load up a web page or open a program, the fans would rev up real high for a hot second, then immediately go back down. I managed to control it a little bit, but today after boot, my fans were going crazy and I had to go back in and reset AI Suite a bit, now I've got constant spikes and it's back to being fucking annoying.

Here's what I'm looking at, and it's only on one set of fans:

JpUEpZv.jpg


The temperature does not change, but the fans will just go nuts, more so than whenever I play a demanding game.
 
If you rotate it 90 degrees, you can make it slightly taller and less narrow. Not a huge difference, but maybe an inch or so less wide (and therefore an inch taller).



It should work as-is, I believe. I've never done it myself, but I don't see why it would cause any issues.

You sure? I know the legs add around an inch and a half on to the height and that the front panel extends the front by around 2 inches or more, but the side, top and bottom panels are all the same size, that's what makes them all interchangeable.

Either way, sometime down the line, I'll probably ditch the case and mobo for a small form factor case that can still house a full size GPU. Or cram the case full of water cooling for the experience.

Edit: Come to think of it, one thing I've really grown to love with building my current rig is just how customisable everything truly is. There's hundreds of unique and affordable cases out there and I can have my pick of any and just move everything over to it if i ever want to. There's an assortment of different air and liquid coolers, covering multiple styles. Can even buy one type of heat sync then swap out the fans with any other to fit my liking, etc.
I've got an idea of what I want eventually, but but i'm holding back on upgrading until there's a new line of AM4 CPU's that clock higher 4ghz to replace my 1600.
 
You sure? I know the legs add around an inch and a half on to the height and that the front panel extends the front by around 2 inches or more, but the side, top and bottom panels are all the same size, that's what makes them all interchangeable.

Either way, sometime down the line, I'll probably ditch the case and mobo for a small form factor case that can still house a full size GPU. Or cram the case full of water cooling for the experience.

Edit: Come to think of it, one thing I've really grown to love with building my current rig is just how customisable everything truly is. There's hundreds of unique and affordable cases out there and I can have my pick of any and just move everything over to it if i ever want to. There's an assortment of different air and liquid coolers, covering multiple styles. Can even buy one type of heat sync then swap out the fans with any other to fit my liking, etc.
I've got an idea of what I want eventually, but but i'm holding back on upgrading until there's a new line of AM4 CPU's that clock higher 4ghz to replace my 1600.

Shoot, you're right. Not home to double-check, but I bet I'm thinking of the added height from the legs.
 
:( Sorry, but yeah it's pretty clearly a huge case from the listing.
Right, it's pretty much my fault, it's just that I've bought mid-ATX cases all my life and this is the first time I've seen one this big in that category.

Yeah, I saw the Enthoo Pro M in some store before, it is huuge XD
When I got my previous pc case, the Define R5, I didn't really mind the size, but after a while, I came to the realization that I don't really need big case really (only 1 GPU, the rest of the pci slots are empty lol). I feel my current case, inwin 301 is just nice. I wonder why there are not many choices for mATX cases. You'd imagine most of the people don't really need ATX.
I was looking at that In Win, bummer about the giant logo on the front, though. I'm also guessing my motherboard is too big for it, looking at it again.

Looks like a nice case to me. What size of case were you wanting? I would just keep it personally. It's a bit big but it'll be nice to work in with all that space.

I have an enthoo pro and it's really a nice all around case, if you have room for it.

My favourite case at the moment that takes an ATX board is the Fractal Design Define C. Pretty impressive how compact it is to still take a full sized ATX board.
My current case is sixteen and a half inches tall, seven and a half wide. It could probably fit in the new case.

I have the physical room for it, it just feels kind of annoying at that size.
 
Yes that corsair will work just fine. Don't get either if those two seasonic's mentioned above, they are both tier 4 and not recommended for gaming PC's.

Can someone explain to me that tier list? For example, why was that SeaSonic M12II 620w PSU considered tier 4? Reviews for it speak highly of it and I can't find evidence that it's low-tier beyond that tier list.
 
Hey PC GAF!

So I have finally decided to take a shot at building my first PC. Take note that I am kind of poor so I am just looking for something modest with the best bang for my buck. After spending some time over at pcpartpicker I have tentatively settled on the following:

H03zpEMl.jpg


Is there any way to tell what to expect from this setup? PS4 Pro level? Comparable to Xbox One X? Sorry if that's not an easy question to answer I am new at this, and have always done my gaming on consoles so it's a good frame of reference for me. I will be using a 1080p monitor so I am just hoping for pretty graphics at 60fps, and not worried about 4K for now. Will be running Windows 10.1, and playing mostly on Steam.

Any comments or revisions to the parts list are welcome. That is pretty much all of the money I have to spend on a PC though.

Thanks GAF.
 

Pokemaniac

Member
Since your budget is fairly high, there's a lot of wiggle room here. With that said:

1. I think the Asus ROG Strix is a good all around 1080 Ti to get, with its great cooling, acoustics, and build quality.

2. Go with the 960 Evo since the Pro mostly adds extra warranty period but for an unnecessarily heftier price.

3. You can buy certain parts now, like power supply, case, the SSDs, 1080 Ti, monitor, etc.

4. No real special tools needed, get yourself a Phillips head screwdriver with good torque and maybe a small magnetic plate to hold screwdrivers.

1. I'll keep that in mind.

2. Okay, so 960 Evo sounds good then.

3. Good, was hoping to spread things out a little bit anyway, since my credit limit will probably be too low to do everything in one batch

4. Cool

You can start thinking in terms of form factor and go from there. Depending on how big you want it to be determines the motherboard, the cooler, which specific 1080ti.

So a few things to decide are:
1)What size I want my motherboard to be; EATX, ATX, mATX, mITX? (Since you are going for 64GB and 8700K then this disqualify mITX since you would only get two slots for ram)
2) Air cooler, a water AIO? (you want room to overclock in the future, Air can be more silent but it takes a lot of vertical room for the coolers that are up to the task, water will be noisier and requires your case has room to put the radiator, I wouldn't recommend anything smaller than 240mm radiator in this situation, but it wont be sticking out in the middle)
3) M.2 or SATA SSDs? (SATA requires two cables, M.2 requires none, but M.2 is more expensive and your board would need to be a model with two M.2 ports; which is becoming the norm)
4) You know your ram sticks have to be 16GB each, but how fast? (we recomend 3000mhz as the base to most people buying new high end PCs, but 64GB at 3000mhz is a lot of money)
5) Do you ever picture yourself adding a second GPU? You may want to go for ATX and over 800W on your Power Supply if that's the case.
6) A case were all that fits and it has room for a blu-ray reader.
7) Additional fans?

So after mulling things over for a bit:

1) ATX seems like the best option
2) Hmm, probably want to go with water.
3) I think I'll go with M.2. The speed difference seems worth it
4) Since the prices don't seem to go down very far, I think I'll stick with 3000mhz
5) No. Dual GPU just doesn't seem worth it from any perspective.
6) The Corsair 100R seems like it would meet my needs. I'm not overly attached to it though (aesthetically, I don't really care too much outside of wanting a side window), so if it ends up not having enough space for something, I could move to something else if I needed to.
7) Would I need additional fans?

So based on these posts, this is what I have so far:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LED 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($599.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($749.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2239.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-14 01:07 EDT-0400

Nothing in here is final. The GPU and RAM particularly I just picked something in the general ballpark of what I would need to get a general idea of cost.
 

Bloodember

Member
Hey PC GAF!

So I have finally decided to take a shot at building my first PC. Take note that I am kind of poor so I am just looking for something modest with the best bang for my buck. After spending some time over at pcpartpicker I have tentatively settled on the following:

H03zpEMl.jpg


Is there any way to tell what to expect from this setup? PS4 Pro level? Comparable to Xbox One X? Sorry if that's not an easy question to answer I am new at this, and have always done my gaming on consoles so it's a good frame of reference for me. I will be using a 1080p monitor so I am just hoping for pretty graphics at 60fps, and not worried about 4K for now. Will be running Windows 10.1, and playing mostly on Steam.

Any comments or revisions to the parts list are welcome. That is pretty much all of the money I have to spend on a PC though.

Thanks GAF.

Here, you'd be much happier with this. You can also get a copy of Windows 10 in many places for roughly $25 if you don't want to pay a premium for it. You also don't need a disk drive, if you really think you need one just get an external drive. You also want an SSD, you will thank me later.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($104.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($126.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Plextor - M8Pe 128GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($89.00 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K3000 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card ($149.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - Source 210 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($46.35 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Rosewill - Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $687.18
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-14 01:27 EDT-0400
 

ISee

Member
Hey PC GAF!

So I have finally decided to take a shot at building my first PC. Take note that I am kind of poor so I am just looking for something modest with the best bang for my buck. After spending some time over at pcpartpicker I have tentatively settled on the following:

H03zpEMl.jpg


Is there any way to tell what to expect from this setup? PS4 Pro level? Comparable to Xbox One X? Sorry if that's not an easy question to answer I am new at this, and have always done my gaming on consoles so it's a good frame of reference for me. I will be using a 1080p monitor so I am just hoping for pretty graphics at 60fps, and not worried about 4K for now. Will be running Windows 10.1, and playing mostly on Steam.

Any comments or revisions to the parts list are welcome. That is pretty much all of the money I have to spend on a PC though.

Thanks GAF.


The CPU is for sure more powerful then what you got in the pro or one X. GPU wise no. The 970 is considered to be on paar with ps4pro and the 1050Ti is weaker then a 970. Still 1080p/60 should be possible on PS4 like settings (medium-high) in many games.

My tip. Don't get the Blu Ray Drive. You will be buying pc games digital anyway. Even if you buy a game physical you just need to enter the cd key and you can download it. Take the Blu Ray Drive money and get yourself a better GPU like a 570 4GB or 1060 3GB. This will boost you above ps4pro levels. Much closer to Xbox one X. 1080p/60 on above console settings will be possible. Just don't expect ultra settings. Get whatever is cheaper, when in doubt get the 570 though because of the better Vram size.
 
Here, you'd be much happier with this. You can also get a copy of Windows 10 in many places for roughly $25 if you don't want to pay a premium for it. You also don't need a disk drive, if you really think you need one just get an external drive. You also want an SSD, you will thank me later.

Oooh where can you get WIndows 10 for 25 bucks?

Also, is 2133 DDR4 Ram alright?
 
1. I'll keep that in mind.

2. Okay, so 960 Evo sounds good then.

3. Good, was hoping to spread things out a little bit anyway, since my credit limit will probably be too low to do everything in one batch

4. Cool

So after mulling things over for a bit:

1) ATX seems like the best option
2) Hmm, probably want to go with water.
3) I think I'll go with M.2. The speed difference seems worth it
4) Since the prices don't seem to go down very far, I think I'll stick with 3000mhz
5) No. Dual GPU just doesn't seem worth it from any perspective.
6) The Corsair 100R seems like it would meet my needs. I'm not overly attached to it though (aesthetically, I don't really care too much outside of wanting a side window), so if it ends up not having enough space for something, I could move to something else if I needed to.
7) Would I need additional fans?

So based on these posts, this is what I have so far:

Nothing in here is final. The GPU and RAM particularly I just picked something in the general ballpark of what I would need to get a general idea of cost.

Alright I would recommend:

1) A Cooler that has a 280mm radiator.
Pros: Better cooling and more silent, OC capable in case the 8700K is surprisingly hot.
Cons: 280mm radiator needs a capable chassis, more expensive than 240mm.
Examples: Corsair Hydro Series H110i and NZXT Kraken X62
2) An ATX case that comfortably lets you situate said radiator. Let's you remove cages from inside because you have no regular drives. But also has a bay for the Bluray reader. and its's not super tall.
Example: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M
3) A 750 watts, fully Modular, at least Gold certified power supply. However 650W should be enough if the 8700K is 95W.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($154.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LED 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($599.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($749.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($117.54 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($46.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2594.36
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-14 05:10 EDT-0400

I'm treating your PC as "the best of the best" but if you are seeing that the budget is going too high, these could be some changes to save money (while more or less keeping the same specs) : https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bTPdLD


also, you can start looking at leaked Motherboards over videocardz.com
https://videocardz.com/72416/exclusive-asrock-z370-motherboards
https://videocardz.com/72511/msi-z370-motherboards-pictures-and-possible-pricing
https://videocardz.com/newz/gigabyte-z370xp-sli-pictured
https://videocardz.com/72452/gigabyte-z370-aorus-motherboards-pictured
 
This is my updated PC build-
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9Cgyhq

Currently, this is what I have:
Patriot Viper DDR4 2133 Ram(2x8)
500GB SSD Drive
Blu-Ray Drive

I'm choosing Newegg because I can Wilco the parts and pick them up from their warehouse(And I don't trust shipping). Thoughts?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($190.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($284.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($67.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill - Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $685.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-14 04:59 EDT-0400
 

ISee

Member
This is my updated PC build-
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9Cgyhq

Currently, this is what I have:
Patriot Viper DDR4 2133 Ram(2x8)
500GB SSD Drive
Blu-Ray Drive

I'm choosing Newegg because I can Wilco the parts and pick them up from their warehouse(And I don't trust shipping). Thoughts?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($190.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($284.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($67.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill - Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $685.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-14 04:59 EDT-0400


The R5 1600 is just $20 more expansive (amazon.com). The performance gains aren't relevant now, but chances are high for the 1600 to outperform the 1500x significantly in the future. Those $20 and 2 extra cores could become a worthwhile investment because you will probably only need to upgrade ram and GPU in 2-3 years instead of ram, GPU and CPU.
 

MikeBison

Member
qYjrhiT.jpg



New goodies today. Along with some Steelseries Arctis 5 headphones.

Fuck sake, didn't have a PC a week ago. What have I become.
 
The R5 1600 is just $20 more expansive (amazon.com). The performance gains aren't relevant now, but chances are high for the 1600 to outperform the 1500x significantly in the future. Those $20 and 2 extra cores could become a worthwhile investment because you will probably only need to upgrade ram and GPU in 2-3 years instead of ram, GPU and CPU.

I do love having CPUs for a ludicrous amount of time.

Is the Ram I listed decent? I know 2133 is worse than say, 2400, but it shouldn't be TOO bad right?
 

ISee

Member
I do love having CPUs for a ludicrous amount of time.

Is the Ram I listed decent? I know 2133 is worse than say, 2400, but it shouldn't be TOO bad right?

It will get the job done. Faster ram is useful whenever you run into CPU intense gaming situations, but as you already have 2133 ddr4 ram I wouldn't bother investing ~$150 into new ram. Just wait till 8 GB aren't enough anymore and get 16 GB of faster ddr4 ram then. Ram prices will hopefully start stabilizing in a year.
 
I'm choosing Newegg because I can Wilco the parts and pick them up from their warehouse(And I don't trust shipping). Thoughts?

Power Supply: Rosewill - Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($70.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $685.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-14 04:59 EDT-0400

Newegg just emailed a deal on a PSU that you may be interested in.
Top of the Page. CORSAIR TX-M Series 550W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Semi-Modular Power Supply
http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemai..._p1=&email64=ZXN0ZWJhbm1lbGVhbkBnbWFpbC5jb20=
 

enewtabie

Member
Phanteks Shift case releases 9/26 finally. Newegg put them up last night. They told me this the other week, but just didn't believe since they were so quiet about that case. Guess I'll order one pretty soon.
 
I have a ryzen 5 1600 OC to 3600hz, 16gb RAM, GTX 1080. I have a monitor 1440p with Gsync, 165 hz.

I am trying to maximize performance on gaming.

is this the best settings? I need some help, first time user here.

thank you friends

*You may not have all the settings I have (listed below) and that is OK
Ambient Occlusion: Off
Anisotropic filtering: Application-controlled
Antialiasing - FXAA: Off
Antialiasing - Gamma correction: On
Antialiasing - Mode: Application-controlled
Antialiasing - Setting: Application-controlled
Antialiasing - Transparency: Off
CUDA - GPUs: All (Select all available options)
DSR - Factors: Off
DSR - Smoothness: Off
Maximum pre-rendered frames: 1
Multi-Frame Sampled AA (MFAA): Off
Multi-display/mixed-GPU acceleration: Compatibility performance mode
Power management mode: Prefer maximum perforamnce
Preferred refresh rate: Highest available
Shader Cache: On
Texture filtering - Anisotropic sample optimization: On
Texture filtering - Negative LOD bias: Allow
Texture filtering - Quality: High perforamnce
Texture filtering - Trilinear optimization: On
Threaded optimization: Auto
Triple buffering: Off
Vertical Sync: Off
Virtual Reality pre-rendered frames: 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vni-4KLMFPs&t=40s
 
I have a ryzen 5 1600 OC to 3600hz, 16gb RAM, GTX 1080. I have a monitor 1440p with Gsync, 165 hz.

I am trying to maximize performance on gaming.

is this the best settings? I need some help, first time user here.

thank you friends

*You may not have all the settings I have (listed below) and that is OK
Ambient Occlusion: Off
Anisotropic filtering: Application-controlled
Antialiasing - FXAA: Off
Antialiasing - Gamma correction: On
Antialiasing - Mode: Application-controlled
Antialiasing - Setting: Application-controlled
Antialiasing - Transparency: Off
CUDA - GPUs: All (Select all available options)
DSR - Factors: Off
DSR - Smoothness: Off
Maximum pre-rendered frames: 1
Multi-Frame Sampled AA (MFAA): Off
Multi-display/mixed-GPU acceleration: Compatibility performance mode
Power management mode: Prefer maximum perforamnce
Preferred refresh rate: Highest available
Shader Cache: On
Texture filtering - Anisotropic sample optimization: On
Texture filtering - Negative LOD bias: Allow
Texture filtering - Quality: High perforamnce
Texture filtering - Trilinear optimization: On
Threaded optimization: Auto
Triple buffering: Off
Vertical Sync: Off
Virtual Reality pre-rendered frames: 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vni-4KLMFPs&t=40s

Kinda surprised you're trying to determine all that through control panel settings rather than tweaking on a per game basis via the, well, in-game settings.
 
Kinda surprised you're trying to determine all that through control panel settings rather than tweaking on a per game basis via the, well, in-game settings.

I know, but I was told if you need to make some global changes as default and adjust on game by game basis if needed. it is easier, I was told. Like for example, Vsync should always be off, but it is on default
 

MikeBison

Member
I know, but I was told if you need to make some global changes as default and adjust on game by game basis if needed. it is easier, I was told. Like for example, Vsync should always be off, but it is on default

Can't you just use Geforce to get a baseline and then adjust the settings you wish from there?
 
I know, but I was told if you need to make some global changes as default and adjust on game by game basis if needed. it is easier, I was told. Like for example, Vsync should always be off, but it is on default

News to me. I mean, I've had to force V-sync on for Dark Souls otherwise I wind up a climbing line of screentearing.
 

CPCunha

Member
I ran a titanium X-Fi on my old pc... went ahead and built a new one a couple of months ago but ran into some trouble with positioning of the soundcard (either blocking videocard airflow or obstructing hard disk bay)... so i'm using the onboard audio from the GA-Z720MX.

Thing is, it's not even close to the quality of a dedicated soundcard so i'm again shopping around. What would you guys recommend for an external one?
 

Zomba13

Member
Can someone explain to me that tier list? For example, why was that SeaSonic M12II 620w PSU considered tier 4? Reviews for it speak highly of it and I can't find evidence that it's low-tier beyond that tier list.

From my understanding of reading the list and another one, it's due to the parts used and how stable it keeps the voltage. Lower down on the tier list doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad PSU, just that the parts aren't the best or that it has more fluctuation in the voltage which leads to it being less stable if you have overclocked components or do a lot of gaming or other high intensity computer stuff. Sometimes things are listed lower on the LTT list simply because of the fan bearing used so while it would be a Tier 1 or 2, it's lower because of the fan is the type that wears out a bit quicker if installed in the computer certain ways.

I don't know where my old OCZ 600W Modxstream PSU ranked at its time (RIP) but that lasted fine for me for 7 years (though the first one I had needed to be RMA'd almost immediately) powering a EVGA Superclocked GTX780 and a 2.6GHz i7 then a 3.4GHz i5.

The EVGA PSU I got had good reviews around the place except the Tier list and the 1* user reviews on Amazon. I really should have read those reviews, I usually do, I just was in a rush for a new PSU because of fucking Overwatch and the anniversary event.
 

Arthos

Member
Hey everyone!

Looking to finally upgrade a few parts of my PC - to be specific, processor and graphics card. Don't want to spend too much. Is the 1060 a good purchase? I would be upgrading from a 770. With that question, I have another - what would be a good but affordable processor? I'd be upgrading from a 2500k.
 

kennah

Member
Hey everyone!

Looking to finally upgrade a few parts of my PC - to be specific, processor and graphics card. Don't want to spend too much. Is the 1060 a good purchase? I would be upgrading from a 770. With that question, I have another - what would be a good but affordable processor? I'd be upgrading from a 2500k.
1060 would be a nice jump from the 770 but not huge huge. I’d save up a little longer.

The best processor you’d be able to get is the 3770k. It’s a few years old now and would be a little improvement over your 2500k but not earth shattering. You’d likely have to find one used. If you want a more modern processor you would have to change your motherboard and ram at the same time.
 

Arex

Member
Hey everyone!

Looking to finally upgrade a few parts of my PC - to be specific, processor and graphics card. Don't want to spend too much. Is the 1060 a good purchase? I would be upgrading from a 770. With that question, I have another - what would be a good but affordable processor? I'd be upgrading from a 2500k.

Gamers Nexus did a comparison video of your current card to the newer cards a while back lol! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=He9lb-ogF1o
And the article, https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2665-gtx-770-in-2016-benchmark

Your 770 is probably between 1050 and 1050ti from what I've seen there. 1060 6GB is not a bad upgrade, but I'd save up for at least 1070 though.
 

MikeBison

Member
moHCS33.jpg


"My loudest every 'Yea Boiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii' "

So, installation was a piece of piss, as was adjusting the lights. ('Breathing" slowly between a dark purple to a pink as all my other lights)

Been running Aida64 for about an hour now using the 'performance' fan setting.

Ryzen 1600 OC'd at 3.9ghz steady at 58C.

I'll take that all day long. That's about 15-20C lower than the stock Wraith Spire.
 
moHCS33.jpg


"My loudest every 'Yea Boiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii' "

So, installation was a piece of piss, as was adjusting the lights. ('Breathing" slowly between a dark purple to a pink as all my other lights)

Been running Aida64 for about an hour now using the 'performance' fan setting.

Ryzen 1600 OC'd at 3.9ghz steady at 58C.

I'll take that all day long. That's about 15-20C lower than the stock Wraith Spire.

Damn thats nice.

Is there....a cheaper liquid cooling option? Maybe I'll get one for my new CPU..

edit: Welp got a 'page_fault_in_nonpaged_area' blue screen

maybe it's time..
 

MikeBison

Member
Damn thats nice.

Is there....a cheaper liquid cooling option? Maybe I'll get one for my new CPU..

edit: Welp got a 'page_fault_in_nonpaged_area' blue screen

maybe it's time..

Yeah, tbh you're paying for fancy lights with the kraken. Great performance too. But the price you pay for it, you could get a boss air cooler and still have money left over.
 
moHCS33.jpg


"My loudest every 'Yea Boiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii' "

So, installation was a piece of piss, as was adjusting the lights. ('Breathing" slowly between a dark purple to a pink as all my other lights)

Been running Aida64 for about an hour now using the 'performance' fan setting.

Ryzen 1600 OC'd at 3.9ghz steady at 58C.

I'll take that all day long. That's about 15-20C lower than the stock Wraith Spire.

Beautiful.

I don't care if it's not the very best performing AIO, it's still definitely the nicest looking water cooler in general. If it wasn't about 4x times the price of my current 212 Turbo, I would've definitely got one.
 
Damn thats nice.

Is there....a cheaper liquid cooling option? Maybe I'll get one for my new CPU..

edit: Welp got a 'page_fault_in_nonpaged_area' blue screen

maybe it's time..

Most 240mm AIOs would be comparable and probably cheaper. Corsair and Deepcool both offer decent alternatives as the first thing that comes to mind. EVGA has one out now too I believe, and Cooler Master and Thermaltake have 240mm options as well.
 
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