you're probably right, but it would probably be a good idea to try anything that might work before moving forward with delidding. I'll probably end up doing it anyway sometime in the future, but I just bought it last week and I don't really need to go past the stock speed for some time.
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you're probably right, but it would probably be a good idea to try anything that might work before moving forward with delidding. I'll probably end up doing it anyway sometime in the future, but I just bought it last week and I don't really need to go past the stock speed for some time.
lostsupper
Banned
Waste of time. Stop being a wuss and just do the delid.
Bubba_Sparks
Member
So I am thinking about buying a new computer. I don't really need one, it is just that I have always wanted to build a crazy system.
Here are the parts I have picked out so far:
CPU: Intel Core i5 7600k
CPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H115i
GPU: ASUS STRIX nVidia GeForce GTX 970 (going to keep GPU until I can buy 4K TV with 4K monitors - Currently have a Panasonic ST60 with two 1080p Dell Monitors)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 SLI PLUS
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB 3000Mhz DDR4
Storage: 2x Samsung 960 EVO M.2 NVMe 250 GB SSD's (Along with a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB, Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB, Seagate 7200 RPM 2 TB, Samsung 1.5 TB 5400 RPM drives from previous builds)
Power Supply: Corsair RMi Series 750w 80Plus Gold
Case: Corsair SPEC-Alpha Red and Black
So yeah, I'm looking at about ~$1700 CDN with my current build. Anyone recommend anything different?
Here are the parts I have picked out so far:
CPU: Intel Core i5 7600k
CPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H115i
GPU: ASUS STRIX nVidia GeForce GTX 970 (going to keep GPU until I can buy 4K TV with 4K monitors - Currently have a Panasonic ST60 with two 1080p Dell Monitors)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 SLI PLUS
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB 3000Mhz DDR4
Storage: 2x Samsung 960 EVO M.2 NVMe 250 GB SSD's (Along with a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB, Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB, Seagate 7200 RPM 2 TB, Samsung 1.5 TB 5400 RPM drives from previous builds)
Power Supply: Corsair RMi Series 750w 80Plus Gold
Case: Corsair SPEC-Alpha Red and Black
So yeah, I'm looking at about ~$1700 CDN with my current build. Anyone recommend anything different?
I'd go with a 7700 + air cooler instead of that. Just personal preference, I really hated to OC my 3570k.
Bubba_Sparks
Member
Which air cooling do you recommend?
EDIT: Is water cooling problematic? It is honestly something I have no experience with!
Celcius
°Temp. member
No way I'd build a pc for 1700 and go with an i5 cpu.
I'd bump up the cpu to a 7700k and then downgrade the ram to 16gb but increase the speed to 3200mhz with the tightest timings you can find.
You may want to consider swapping the cpu cooler for a noctua nh-d15 (unless you just really like the look of the h115i). Lastly (personal preference here) but I'd swap the psu for a Seasonic.
Also, why go with dual 250gb 960 Evos instead of a single larger drive?
Looks great! Now that you've got the case put together how do you like it?
Also, how are you liking the Asus Strix 1080 Ti?
Best case ever. Definitely an eye catcher. Prior to the recommendation I was going to get an R5. Glad I didn't. It looks like what Microsoft would make if they were into building PCs.
Strix fits with everything else. I didn't get to play any games yet. Still have a few things to install.
Strix fits with everything else. I didn't get to play any games yet. Still have a few things to install.
Bubba_Sparks
Member
Well.
Looks much better in person. I can completely control the lights on my phone to do whatever.
Man, I wish I could be as cool as you!
Thanks for the great input! I am now going to get the i7, and the Noctura cooler you recommended.
The only reason I separated the drives was because I want a drive solely for Windows, and then a high-speed drive for certain games. Currently, I have a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB as my Windows drive and a Samsung 850 EVO as my high-speed drive for AAA games. So I was looking to replicate that setup with my new system, but from what I can tell Samsung does not offer a 120 GB NVMe drive.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Haha are those speakers the ancient imac era harmon kardon jellyfish subwoofer set?
Celcius
°Temp. member
I need to get around to upgrading my monitor one of these days... I've been on this 23" 1080p 60hz monitor for 8 years and don't have a tv so it's my only screen lol.
It gets the job done though. Last year I played the panel lottery a few times and lost so I ended up just keeping what I had for the time being. Definitely needs to be my next PC upgrade.
It gets the job done though. Last year I played the panel lottery a few times and lost so I ended up just keeping what I had for the time being. Definitely needs to be my next PC upgrade.
I upgraded from one such shitty TN screen to a 27" 1440p IPS 75hz monitor, which I've yet to receive. The plan was to get an ultrawide, specifically the Omen. Then ... I don't even know. A combination of high price (1300$), mixed impressions from early buyers + legit concerns (gsync flickering, iffy response time) and the lack of HDR (which hopefully isn't too far away from trickling down to somewhat more affordable monitors - dear Asus, kindly fuck off with that 2k$ pricetag for the PG27UQ), made me reconsider. This incoming 27" screen should still be a significant upgrade over my previous monitor and serve me well for a year or two, by which time I'm hoping ultrawide + high refresh / vrr + HDR monitors will be available. Not the greatest time to be buying a long-term new monitor.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Good points. On the plus side anything will be an upgrade. I need to upgrade more often... at least every 5 years lol.
andregnreis
Member
Looking forward to my new PC. The current one I build using this same topic, some years ago, when the best overall was a Gtx 560ti 
Now I'm thinking about:
* Gigabyte Z270MX-Gaming 5 (mATX)
* GeForce GTX 1070 8GB
* 2x8GB [16GB] DDR4 3200Mhz
* Corsair RM650x
It is almost a mix of the Excellent and Enthusiast builds.
I would go full on the Excellent, but some things I prefer the more expensive one, from past experiences, like the motherboard (I prefer Gigabyte) and the power supply (really like corsair).
The problem right now is the CPU. I know that the "K" models can overclock, but I really dont see myself trying this. Also, when I see that I have to worry about the heatsink, I give up already.
I like PC gaming, but I'm more on the casual side. So, what do you guys recommend? Should I go for the "normal" i7 7700?
I saw that the benchmarks of the i7 700 and the i5 7600K are similar (and sometimes the i5 is even better). So I imagine i would be almost in the middle of the i5 7600K and the i7 7700k.
Any advice?
PS: When people do these benchmarks, they measure the K models "on overlclock mode"?
Now I'm thinking about:
* Gigabyte Z270MX-Gaming 5 (mATX)
* GeForce GTX 1070 8GB
* 2x8GB [16GB] DDR4 3200Mhz
* Corsair RM650x
It is almost a mix of the Excellent and Enthusiast builds.
I would go full on the Excellent, but some things I prefer the more expensive one, from past experiences, like the motherboard (I prefer Gigabyte) and the power supply (really like corsair).
The problem right now is the CPU. I know that the "K" models can overclock, but I really dont see myself trying this. Also, when I see that I have to worry about the heatsink, I give up already.
I like PC gaming, but I'm more on the casual side. So, what do you guys recommend? Should I go for the "normal" i7 7700?
I saw that the benchmarks of the i7 700 and the i5 7600K are similar (and sometimes the i5 is even better). So I imagine i would be almost in the middle of the i5 7600K and the i7 7700k.
Any advice?
PS: When people do these benchmarks, they measure the K models "on overlclock mode"?
Tajaz2426
Psychology PhD from Wikipedia University
Looking forward to my new PC. The current one I build using this same topic, some years ago, when the best overall was a Gtx 560ti
Now I'm thinking about:
* Gigabyte Z270MX-Gaming 5 (mATX)
* GeForce GTX 1070 8GB
* 2x8GB [16GB] DDR4 3200Mhz
* Corsair RM650x
It is almost a mix of the Excellent and Enthusiast builds.
I would go full on the Excellent, but some things I prefer the more expensive one, from past experiences, like the motherboard (I prefer Gigabyte) and the power supply (really like corsair).
The problem right now is the CPU. I know that the "K" models can overclock, but I really dont see myself trying this. Also, when I see that I have to worry about the heatsink, I give up already.
I like PC gaming, but I'm more on the casual side. So, what do you guys recommend? Should I go for the "normal" i7 7700?
I saw that the benchmarks of the i7 700 and the i5 7600K are similar (and sometimes the i5 is even better). So I imagine i would be almost in the middle of the i5 7600K and the i7 7700k.
Any advice?
PS: When people do these benchmarks, they measure the K models "on overlclock mode"?
I have an MSI Z270 M5 and it is outstanding, so that is a great choice. The price difference between a "K" and a "non-k" is ver small, only 30 to 40 dollar difference. I would go with a "K", that way if you ever do decide to play with the CPU one night while hanging on your computer, it will be there. I would recommend that you go with an i7 for gaming.
You can also check benchmarks for the 7700K, on most websites the last page before their last word summaries, they usually have OC numbers. I use an EVGA CLC for my 7700K that I just got and it has worked beautifully so far. If you can with the price drop because of the Ti, go for a 1080 if you can. I purchase an EVGA 1080 FTW2 and I absolutely love it.
That's all I can think of, enjoy the build.
Looks great, glad we convinced you from getting the fractal.
Dave_6
Member
Yep agreed. I just need to upgrade my PC and get a 1080ti to really enjoy 144hz 1440p.
Which case is that you went with?
metareferential
Member
Now that the Ryzen 5 is out I can finally upgrade and get a 7700k. Pricing in Europe is dumb, the 1600x costs too much to be a no brainer.
Actually, the i5 7600k, its main competitor, is actually cheaper (hopefully prices with adjust with a little time).
I'll buy a ryzen for a second rig surely, though, just to mess around with it.
Actually, the i5 7600k, its main competitor, is actually cheaper (hopefully prices with adjust with a little time).
I'll buy a ryzen for a second rig surely, though, just to mess around with it.
What case is this?
Will you be using the external blu ray drive a lot? I'm leaning towards the R5 since I'm not ready to let go of a DVD writer, but maybe an external drive would do?
lostsupper
Banned
Good man.
I just went from a Kuro to LG B6. LG C7 would be my pick today. And it blows the Kuro out the water. My neighbour has a Kuro and it's now impossible to watch it.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Only thing crazy about that system is you having to drop 1700 for something with a 7600k and that doesn't even have an updated GPU. Fucking CDN, man. I mean I trust you've found the lowest prices for stuff?
Do you actually need 32GBs of RAM?
Also, why two 250GBs instead of one 500? You have two M.2 slots. If you want to add the same type of storage in the future, one of your 250s becomes useless.
digitalrelic
Banned
So I've got the following spec:
4790k @4.8ghz w/ NZXT X61 liquid cooling
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti Hybrid liquid cooling
16GB DDR3 1866mhz CL8 RAM
1TB Samsung EVO 840 SSD
Windows 10
Anything lacking here that would give a boost to performance? I was contemplating going for 2400mhz RAM, but I'm not sure if it'd be worth it, especially considering my 1866mhz is CL8 and I can't find any 2400mhz RAM better than CL10.
4790k @4.8ghz w/ NZXT X61 liquid cooling
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti Hybrid liquid cooling
16GB DDR3 1866mhz CL8 RAM
1TB Samsung EVO 840 SSD
Windows 10
Anything lacking here that would give a boost to performance? I was contemplating going for 2400mhz RAM, but I'm not sure if it'd be worth it, especially considering my 1866mhz is CL8 and I can't find any 2400mhz RAM better than CL10.
digitalrelic
Banned
Why not wait until you're ready to buy your new GPU & just upgrade the whole thing? You aren't going to see much of a performance increase in gaming when you're stuck with the 970, and by the time you upgrade your GFX card the rest of your hardware will be outdated. I think it makes a lot more sense to just wait until you're ready to upgrade everything across the board.
Not lacking anywhere.
Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair have been good to me so far. Definitely splurge and get Platinum or higher efficiency, the extra $ to getting it silent is amazing.
hikarutilmitt
Member
So last week I finally bought the PSU and 1060 for my ITX build, completing it. I was wanting to do this part last, but expedited things a tiny bit since it gave me back a bit of space over my ATX PSU and 660ti. So now it's:
Cooler Master Elite 130
Intel i5 6600
Intel Liquid Cooler
Gigabyte H110N ITX mobo
16GB DDR4 2133 (single stick) G.skill Aegis
256GB Intel 600p NVMe SSD
500GB Samsung 850 Evo SSD
Pioneer BDR
Corsair SF600 with a Silverstone SFX to ATX bracket
Gigabyte 1060 6GB ITX
Technically I could have gotten a full size GPU since the case supports it, but the ITX one was showing the same specs so I figured why not go for it. The fan not coming on until it's under a bit of load is odd, to me, but it's also keeping the system pretty quiet. Same goes for the PSU fan. Things are staying quite cool despite the cable management not being ideal (due to space).
Overall I'm pretty pleased. It would have been nice for some slightly better cable management, but I think I could only really, truly do that if I removed the BDR and went with an external drive (which I may do in the future anyway, since I don't use it for much) and get that tray space back. The PSU being fully modular and not braided helps a bit, but the cables are _really_ stiff.
Cooler Master Elite 130
Intel i5 6600
Intel Liquid Cooler
Gigabyte H110N ITX mobo
16GB DDR4 2133 (single stick) G.skill Aegis
256GB Intel 600p NVMe SSD
500GB Samsung 850 Evo SSD
Pioneer BDR
Corsair SF600 with a Silverstone SFX to ATX bracket
Gigabyte 1060 6GB ITX
Technically I could have gotten a full size GPU since the case supports it, but the ITX one was showing the same specs so I figured why not go for it. The fan not coming on until it's under a bit of load is odd, to me, but it's also keeping the system pretty quiet. Same goes for the PSU fan. Things are staying quite cool despite the cable management not being ideal (due to space).
Overall I'm pretty pleased. It would have been nice for some slightly better cable management, but I think I could only really, truly do that if I removed the BDR and went with an external drive (which I may do in the future anyway, since I don't use it for much) and get that tray space back. The PSU being fully modular and not braided helps a bit, but the cables are _really_ stiff.
Dominican Power
Member
There's no other reputable companies that build machines?
ColdDeckEd
Member
Definitely not worth it, if you have some time to kill you can just oc your ram if they're good sticks they might be able to hit 2133.
Did you buy at 1080ti kit? Or just the 1080/1070 one?
Bloodember
Member
Other than who?
^Lian Li 07S.
I tried overclocking. It seems pretty easy but when I did it keeps giving error like nope, reverting back to what settings worked last. I'm only OCing my CPU to 4.5 so I don't see why it's not stable considering I have a liquid cooler and everything is overall cool anyway. I must be doing something wrong.
Does it do it automatically anyway depending on what I do?
I tried overclocking. It seems pretty easy but when I did it keeps giving error like nope, reverting back to what settings worked last. I'm only OCing my CPU to 4.5 so I don't see why it's not stable considering I have a liquid cooler and everything is overall cool anyway. I must be doing something wrong.
Does it do it automatically anyway depending on what I do?
Celcius
°Temp. member
There's a new benchmark today out if any of you feel like benching your hardware: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=233757547
Do you have the latest bios installed that's available for your motherboard?
Did you disable speed step, disable c states, etc... and then set the core ratio to 45 for all cores?
What do you have the cpu voltage set to?
Here's some info that may be helpful:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1621347/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
http://edgeup.asus.com/2017/01/31/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide/
Do you have the latest bios installed that's available for your motherboard?
Did you disable speed step, disable c states, etc... and then set the core ratio to 45 for all cores?
What do you have the cpu voltage set to?
Here's some info that may be helpful:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1621347/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
http://edgeup.asus.com/2017/01/31/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide/
Dominican Power
Member
Arc07
Member
Why don't you build it yourself? It's fun.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Woah, it sounds like you're increasing the system bus from 100mhz from 150mhz.. no wonder the system didn't like it. When overclocking a kaby lake system you should leave the system bus at 100mhz and then increase the speed of the processor by increasing the cpu multiplier. Most motherboards don't like it when you increase the system bus above 100mhz.
[cpu multiplier] x [system bus] = cpu speed
45 x 100 = 4500 mhz
If the cpu multiplier was left at stock (42) and the bus was changed to 150mhz then that would have been 42 x 150 = 6300mhz.
Try setting the cpu vcore (voltage) to 1.28v and then the cpu multiplier (also known as core ratio) to 45 for all cores, and then changing the bus speed back to 100.
Before overclocking though I'd highly recommend taking a read through those two guides first.
One other thing I'd like to mention is Load Line Calibration (LLC). When the cpu is under load/stress then the voltage drops a bit (it's designed this way). There's a setting in your bios to adjust the level of LLC and this will control how much the system adds to the cpu voltage under load to counter the voltage drop. On the lowest setting it will basically do nothing and you'll see the cpu voltage drop some under load, while on the highest setting it will add so much voltage that the cpu voltage will actually go up some under load. Most people use a setting in the middle to try to keep the voltage as steady as possible between load and idle.
C-states lower the cpu speed & voltage when the system is idle... when you're in the process of trying to find your stable overclock then it's best to leave things running at a constant speed and disable c states. You can find more info here: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/ever...ow-about-the-cpu-c-states-power-saving-modes/
If you have any questions though just ask and any of us can jump in to answer / explain.
Even though you've got an MSI motherboard and I've got Asus, if you want I can upload screenshots of my bios settings (overclocked to 4.7ghz) and then you could try to use it as a starting point & adjust what you like.
Some useful tools for the overclocking process:
CPU-Z for seeing cpu speed, ram speed, and general system info: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
RealTemp for seeing cpu temperatures: https://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
Prime95 for stress testing: http://www.mersenne.org/ftp_root/gimps/p95v2810.win64.zip (utilizes avx and fma3 instruction sets to really stress the cpu... I run the blend test)
RealBench for stress testing: http://dlcdnmkt.asus.com/rog/RealBench_v2.54.zip?_ga=1.134572529.1664667219.1491950447 (uses avx instructions but not nearly as stressful)
edit: Also if you set your RAM to XMP mode then it should automatically set the speed and timings for you... there should be a setting for it.
Captain N. Tenneal
Member
Currently running an i5 3570k system I built in 2012 with 16 gigs of ram, a samsung 840 Evo SSD, a WD Black 1 terabyte and a HD7870 Radeon and it's starting to show it's age a bit. The system is not just for gaming, it's a work computer I use daily for professional photoshop and flash work.
But the issue is, a system I would upgrade to is going to cost me at least 1800 CDN plus taxes. If I went to a 7700K, that would be easily at 2000 before taxes. Our dollar is killing me, considering I built the previous computer for under 1000 CDN.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/3ZvDFd
How much of a performance gain would I see moving from my system to something like that? I would transfer the Samsung 840 to a scratch disk for photoshop and the Black for file storage with the M2 drive as my boot drive.
The other option is put a new graphics card in it, maybe get a new case because mine is falling apart (failing USB slots, etc) and save some money for now with a stop-gap upgrade.
Thoughts?
But the issue is, a system I would upgrade to is going to cost me at least 1800 CDN plus taxes. If I went to a 7700K, that would be easily at 2000 before taxes. Our dollar is killing me, considering I built the previous computer for under 1000 CDN.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/3ZvDFd
How much of a performance gain would I see moving from my system to something like that? I would transfer the Samsung 840 to a scratch disk for photoshop and the Black for file storage with the M2 drive as my boot drive.
The other option is put a new graphics card in it, maybe get a new case because mine is falling apart (failing USB slots, etc) and save some money for now with a stop-gap upgrade.
Thoughts?
digitalrelic
Banned
Thanks for the input! I bought the 1080 Ti kit.
TC McQueen
Member
If you're doing professional stuff, you might be better off with a Ryzen 5 1600(X) with 6 cores/12 threads and either a B350 or X370 mobo, depending on if you want to overclock it to the limit (4.0 GHz).
NamelessMonk
Member
Hey everyone. I don't know why I forgot about this thread, but in January I built my first build:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/KVYTwP
It's been fun for far, but I've sort of been obsessed with making my computer even smaller. I actually started with a used Corsair 250d, then went to a Fractal Design Core 500 which had a lot of QC issues, which is why I have the thermaltake right now. Mini itx builds are tough, because now I'm thinking of (when my finances are in order and when school's out) making it even smaller, like putting it in a Silverstone RV02 or a Fractal Design Node 202. Problem is I already bought the Corsair H75 Watercooling, and for the Node 202 I'd have to get rid of my 3.5 drive (Where most of my games are).
Sigh. Mini itx cases are fun but I'm learning that I have to really plan things out.
Whoops, forgot to post my "Dream upgrade" from that:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/LFf8vV
Just in terms of getting more space, but I'm afraid that i wont be able to overclock in a case that small >_>. I also want to upgrade to an i7 just for futureproof protection (I didn't think of most of this stuff before I started building, which is why I'm in this predicament right now.)
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/KVYTwP
It's been fun for far, but I've sort of been obsessed with making my computer even smaller. I actually started with a used Corsair 250d, then went to a Fractal Design Core 500 which had a lot of QC issues, which is why I have the thermaltake right now. Mini itx builds are tough, because now I'm thinking of (when my finances are in order and when school's out) making it even smaller, like putting it in a Silverstone RV02 or a Fractal Design Node 202. Problem is I already bought the Corsair H75 Watercooling, and for the Node 202 I'd have to get rid of my 3.5 drive (Where most of my games are).
Sigh. Mini itx cases are fun but I'm learning that I have to really plan things out.
Whoops, forgot to post my "Dream upgrade" from that:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/LFf8vV
Just in terms of getting more space, but I'm afraid that i wont be able to overclock in a case that small >_>. I also want to upgrade to an i7 just for futureproof protection (I didn't think of most of this stuff before I started building, which is why I'm in this predicament right now.)
Celcius
°Temp. member
For a limited time Caselabs Magnum SMA8's, Mercury S5's or S8's are available in WHITE: http://caselabs-store.com/ (on the front page)
Makes me want to build another new rig and make it my first mATX build. I'd match the white case with some Noctua fans for a white/brown theme... too bad RGB lighting can't replicate the color brown. Then since I have a 7700k already, this rig would have a Ryzen7 cpu.
Once I start adding options the price starts going up and then I'm like "not now..."
Makes me want to build another new rig and make it my first mATX build. I'd match the white case with some Noctua fans for a white/brown theme... too bad RGB lighting can't replicate the color brown. Then since I have a 7700k already, this rig would have a Ryzen7 cpu.
Once I start adding options the price starts going up and then I'm like "not now..."
Elitist1945
Member
Can someone please help me with my Logitech G933 headset? Today it stopped outputing sound and I don't know how to fix it. The PC detects it as a device, and it pops up in Logitech software however it tells me to turn it on even though it is. I've reinstalled the software dozens of times, deleted the drivers and reinstalled them, tried forcing an update though command prompt and nothing works. When I move the volume dial on the headset I hear beeps so the audio does work, I just don't get any from my PC.
Please help.
Please help.