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[MonkeyClaw36]

What's a good relative humidity to keep a bedroom with a gaming pc in? I have my humidifier set to 45% now. Is that good?

You'll be fine. Average humidity in a house is anywhere between 40 and 60%.

As long as you don't live in a swamp with a badly isolated house, no problem!

 

[lachesis]

Well, my build is coming along. It's my 1st time building with modern HW since 12 years ago, and I am quite surprised how far and easier everything is.
NVMe drives are like godsend - that you don't need any SATA and SATA power cables, that back of my case now looks almost empty!
I was pretty afraid of any f*** ups while making my new build in such a long time... and so far, everything is moving along so smoothly.

Only thing missing from it now is GPU. I have ordered 4080 Super FE - so hopefully I will be done with everything and move on in a few days to a week. .
Still kinda nerve wrecking to wait for a 1000 dollar GFX card to be shipped to me.

Anyhow, I'm looking for a new monitor. I am currently using Dell Ultrasharp 27" (two, actually - one U2718 and another U2720)
Plan is to replace one of them with 32" one. I have always used Ultrasharp monitors for my work - for my design work - but they are mostly 60Hz monitors.
I was thinking about getting Alienware 32" 4K OLED model (AW3225QF) - but as much as I love OLED, my machine will be 70% work, 30% play.
Which means, it would have a lot of static menu bars and all... - and I don't want to alter my workflow just because I am working on OLED to avoid burn-in.

So I was looking at other options - and Dell G3223Q (4k IPS 144Hz) seems to be pretty decent.
Default calibration is excellent, and while it has not so great HDR, I don't plan to use the HDR unless I'm playing games...

Question is... is 144Hz good enough for gaming? I mean, this will be my first VRR experience, yet alone DLSS or Frame Gen... lol, so I have no idea what to expect.
My old rig had GTX 970 with none of modern HW capabilities, nor my current OLED TV is VRR compatible.

Looks like new monitors from CES all pushing 240hz and up... and mostly OLED.
I'd be interested what you think of this Dell G3223Q monitor for daily driver, whether 144hz is good enough for gaming.
I could go for the more standard 60Hz Ultrasharp 4k monitor with better color like always - but it seems like I'd be wasting the gaming capability of my new build...

 

[crazepharmacist]

What's a good wifi adapter either usb or pce, doesn't matter for wifi 6e? I have the google pro wifi mesh system.

I have a top of the line Am5 mobo, asus x670e hero and I think the wifi chip is crapping out on me. Getting like 5 mpbs down when I'm rated for 400 and all my other devices are getting full speeds in my bedroom, where my PC is. Restarting the modem will fix it for a little while and I'll get full speed again but shortly after it craps out again and goes down to 5 mbps while again, all my other devices still getting full speed.

 

[Fredrik]

I need help building a smallish living room PC. Nice design worthy a living room on a wall shelf beside the TV. Silent. Shelf is W60xD29cm, height is no problem. I could accept 1080p since the TV is HDMI2.0 and can only do 1080p120 or 4K60, no vrr. But in case I buy a new one, 4K120 would be neat if possible.
No wires except HDMI and power.

Astray

 

[Astray]

I need help building a smallish living room PC. Nice design worthy a living room on a wall shelf beside the TV. Silent. Shelf is W60xD29cm, height is no problem. I could accept 1080p since the TV is HDMI2.0 and can only do 1080p120 or 4K60, no vrr. But in case I buy a new one, 4K120 would be neat if possible.
No wires except HDMI and power.

Astray

Hdmi won't be a problem because most modern cards support hdmi 2.1 AFAIK.

There are quite a few case options for your stated wxd, all are considered good, so it depends on your preferences.

Cooler Master NR200: arguably the most popular itx case, comes in multiple variants, very recently discontinued (but most itx enthusiasts prefer the older version from what I've seen), I'd recommend getting the regular nr200v1 and using an air cooler to increase reliability, but it takes 240/280mm liquid coolers too.

https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/mini-itx/masterbox-nr200/

Cooler Master NCore 100: New case that includes a liquid cooler + power supply, very small footprint, but you need to check your available height

NCORE 100 MAX

Want to maximize your PC’s performance and save on space at the same time? Cooler Master’s NCORE 100 MAX is the ultimate solution for going big on performance in the minimal amount of desktop space

www.coolermaster.com

Fractal Ridge: You already know about the Terra, so I'll skip posting a link, but there's another case from Fractal that might fit your need, it's probably the most console-like case out there, but it's only issue is reduced cpu cooling capacity because console-like case is thin.

Ridge

An uncluttered, small form factor case designed to integrate seamlessly into your living space and daily rituals. An evolution of the slimline format, Ridge was developed in collaboration with gaming and entertainment enthusiasts to subtly improve their homes and enhance the small form factor PC...

www.fractal-design.com

 

[Fredrik]

Hdmi won't be a problem because most modern cards support hdmi 2.1 AFAIK.

There are quite a few case options for your stated wxd, all are considered good, so it depends on your preferences.

Cooler Master NR200: arguably the most popular itx case, comes in multiple variants, very recently discontinued (but most itx enthusiasts prefer the older version from what I've seen), I'd recommend getting the regular nr200v1 and using an air cooler to increase reliability, but it takes 240/280mm liquid coolers too.

https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/mini-itx/masterbox-nr200/

Cooler Master NCore 100: New case that includes a liquid cooler + power supply, very small footprint, but you need to check your available height

NCORE 100 MAX

Want to maximize your PC’s performance and save on space at the same time? Cooler Master’s NCORE 100 MAX is the ultimate solution for going big on performance in the minimal amount of desktop space

www.coolermaster.com

Fractal Ridge: You already know about the Terra, so I'll skip posting a link, but there's another case from Fractal that might fit your need, it's probably the most console-like case out there, but it's only issue is reduced cpu cooling capacity because console-like case is thin.

Ridge

An uncluttered, small form factor case designed to integrate seamlessly into your living space and daily rituals. An evolution of the slimline format, Ridge was developed in collaboration with gaming and entertainment enthusiasts to subtly improve their homes and enhance the small form factor PC...

www.fractal-design.com

Thanks the ncore 100 max was unique, chimney design, I like it. A bit high though, have to move a family photo but that should be okay I think.
Fractal Ridge was interesting too but too deep for the shelf, only have 29cm and need to have cables in the back too.

 

[Astray]

Thanks the ncore 100 max was unique, chimney design, I like it. A bit high though, have to move a family photo but that should be okay I think.
Fractal Ridge was interesting too but too deep for the shelf, only have 29cm and need to have cables in the back too.

There are similar vertical style cases that are "lower" if you're interested.

Hyte Revolt 3

: HYTE

HYTE Revolt 3 - Premium ITX Small Form Factor Case. We designed the REVOLT 3 to be the ITX case you'll take anywhere, and upgrade for years.

hyte.com

Meshroom s v2

Meshroom S V2

Meshroom S sets a new benchmark in compact SFF PC cases with its innovative 14.9L volume design. Despite its small size, it brings the power of an ATX chassis into the compact realm, offering unparalleled compatibility and cooling. The case features a 1.5mm fine mesh design, enabling both...

ssupd.co

 

[twilo99]

There are similar vertical style cases that are "lower" if you're interested.

Meshroom s v2

Meshroom S V2

Meshroom S sets a new benchmark in compact SFF PC cases with its innovative 14.9L volume design. Despite its small size, it brings the power of an ATX chassis into the compact realm, offering unparalleled compatibility and cooling. The case features a 1.5mm fine mesh design, enabling both...

ssupd.co

that better come with some filters... dusty nightmare

 

[Astray]

that better come with some filters... dusty nightmare

Maximum airflow is the point of this. But dust cleaning is one of the things a PC owner must endure no matter what lol.

Personally prefer the nr200 tbh, great airflow, cheap and good-looking and has no issues with dust accumulation if you plan the airflow right.

 

[Fredrik]

There are similar vertical style cases that are "lower" if you're interested.

Hyte Revolt 3

: HYTE

HYTE Revolt 3 - Premium ITX Small Form Factor Case. We designed the REVOLT 3 to be the ITX case you'll take anywhere, and upgrade for years.

hyte.com

Meshroom s v2

Meshroom S V2

Meshroom S sets a new benchmark in compact SFF PC cases with its innovative 14.9L volume design. Despite its small size, it brings the power of an ATX chassis into the compact realm, offering unparalleled compatibility and cooling. The case features a 1.5mm fine mesh design, enabling both...

ssupd.co

First one is interesting. Second one looks too transparent. Ncore 100 Max is my favorite from these high ones, I’ll check some reviews on it.

 

[Astray]

First one is interesting. Second one looks too transparent. Ncore 100 Max is my favorite from these high ones, I’ll check some reviews on it.

One factor why i think it might be the right one is it has its USB ports on the front, which might matter if you are connecting like dongles for a keyboard and a controller to it.

It's also supposedly an easy building process as long as you have the parts figured out size-wise.

Now we need to figure out what cpu/GPU combo you're looking for. What games would you be looking to play on the PC, and at what resolution?

 

[CLW]

How much performance is lost due to heat with going with a small console sized case like fractal ridge?

Say a 7900xtx 7800x3d in a 216 vs ridge

The small form factor interests me but I’m worried about performance lost money wasted just for the cool form factor

 

[hinch7]

How much performance is lost due to heat with going with a small console sized case like fractal ridge?

Say a 7900xtx 7800x3d in a 216 vs ridge

The small form factor interests me but I’m worried about performance lost money wasted just for the cool form factor

Not a lot. Lots of ventilation holes for the GPU to breathe. And the 7800X3D isn't that hard to cool with a low profile air cooler. Something like the below two heatsinks will fit and be good enough. Add a bit of negative PBO and you'll be golden.



One thing that may be a limiting factor is what choice of GPU you can fit in there, since the max length is 335mm with a 2.5" SSD installed.

 

[Celcius]

Seems like most people with computers hooked up to their TV these days (HTPC) just use regular computer cases instead of horizontal cases right?

 

[Yerd]

Seems like most people with computers hooked up to their TV these days (HTPC) just use regular computer cases instead of horizontal cases right?

There's almost no horizontal options out there. There really isn't any need these days. I think a small form factor would be a better choice than anything else.

I still have the last horizontal option, that I'm aware of, from Lian Li in aluminum. I decommissioned that case a while back because it's too big. It's basically the size of a medium case turned on it's side. Also 140mm fan cutouts, which is unusual in that form.

I'll sell it, if you have a real hard-on for a sideways case.

 

[Fredrik]

One factor why i think it might be the right one is it has its USB ports on the front, which might matter if you are connecting like dongles for a keyboard and a controller to it.

It's also supposedly an easy building process as long as you have the parts figured out size-wise.

Now we need to figure out what cpu/GPU combo you're looking for. What games would you be looking to play on the PC, and at what resolution?

Thanks again for helping out!

Do I need a keyboard?

I currently have a docked Steam Deck connected to the TV. Never had to use a keyboard or mouse, feels like a console.

I was thinking I would just use a controller for a living room PC too.
Is that unrealistic? No big screen mode in Windows?
Maybe mouse and keyboard is needed for certain scenarios like adding mods etc, unless I do that over network.

As for resolution, my TV can do 1080p120, 1080p60, 4K60, no vrr, it’s an old HDMI2.0 TV.
Generally speaking I care more about framerates than pixels so 1080p could be enough, means I could sometimes get 120fps gaming, would be nice. But in the rare occasions where a console would get native 4K60 I don’t want the PC to not be capable of the same.

The plan is to phase out both Xbox and Playstation from my equation, if possible. When done the wall shelf here should have a PC at the top shelf and Switch (Switch 2 soon I hope) plus controllers on the lower shelf.

The games I plan to play is basically console ports where a controller is preferred. That’s usually when I miss the couch when I’m at my PC.
Elden Ring, Assassin’s Creed games, Hellblade 2, Horizon Forbidden West, Tomb Raider games, Returnal, Gears, TLOU, FF7 Remake/Rebirth, Spider-Man, etc.

Just realized one thing. Is it possible to emulate Xbox One, Xbox 360, PS4 or would I need to still have the consoles for older games?

If I still need the consoles for BC I could leave them on the wall shelves and place the PC on the bench below the TV, to the left of the center speaker in the first pic. Not ideal but would mean I’m not forced to wait for ports if something comes out and really blow me away. Plus would allow higher builds like the ncore 100 max without a problem. I really liked that one.

One of the most important things is the noise level. Is it possible to have a PC capable of running modern games in a small case without noise?

 

[draliko]

Damn i don't *need* to upgrade the pc but i'm getting the itch again... pls guys talk me out of it
Current config:
pure base 500dx, r5 5600x, msi b450 mortar max, 16gb 3600, 7900xt, arctic esports duo 34 cooler, wb black sn750 nvme, 27" samsung g6...

Config in the amazon cart:
7800x3d, 32gb ddr5 6000 cl30, arctic freezer 2 360, msi b650 gaming plus wifi...

there's nothing i play right now that doesn't run good enough at 1440p... but fuck building pc is addicting

 

[GreatnessRD]

Damn i don't *need* to upgrade the pc but i'm getting the itch again... pls guys talk me out of it
Current config:
pure base 500dx, r5 5600x, msi b450 mortar max, 16gb 3600, 7900xt, arctic esports duo 34 cooler, wb black sn750 nvme, 27" samsung g6...

Config in the amazon cart:
7800x3d, 32gb ddr5 6000 cl30, arctic freezer 2 360, msi b650 gaming plus wifi...

there's nothing i play right now that doesn't run good enough at 1440p... but fuck building pc is addicting

All you need is the 5800X3D and you're set unless you just wanna blow money and in that case, just grab a 7800X3D and 7900XTX.

 

[Nitty_Grimes]

What is the best 32" non-OLED? 4K 144hz +?

Can I do better than this? https://uk.store.asus.com/rog/rog-strix-xg32uq-209094714-90lm08b0-b01170.html

 

[winjer]

Damn i don't *need* to upgrade the pc but i'm getting the itch again... pls guys talk me out of it
Current config:
pure base 500dx, r5 5600x, msi b450 mortar max, 16gb 3600, 7900xt, arctic esports duo 34 cooler, wb black sn750 nvme, 27" samsung g6...

Config in the amazon cart:
7800x3d, 32gb ddr5 6000 cl30, arctic freezer 2 360, msi b650 gaming plus wifi...

there's nothing i play right now that doesn't run good enough at 1440p... but fuck building pc is addicting

Save your money for now.
Zen4 will be released in H2 2024.

 

[Celcius]

Thanks again for helping out!

Do I need a keyboard?

I currently have a docked Steam Deck connected to the TV. Never had to use a keyboard or mouse, feels like a console.

I was thinking I would just use a controller for a living room PC too.
Is that unrealistic? No big screen mode in Windows?
Maybe mouse and keyboard is needed for certain scenarios like adding mods etc, unless I do that over network.

As for resolution, my TV can do 1080p120, 1080p60, 4K60, no vrr, it’s an old HDMI2.0 TV.
Generally speaking I care more about framerates than pixels so 1080p could be enough, means I could sometimes get 120fps gaming, would be nice. But in the rare occasions where a console would get native 4K60 I don’t want the PC to not be capable of the same.

The plan is to phase out both Xbox and Playstation from my equation, if possible. When done the wall shelf here should have a PC at the top shelf and Switch (Switch 2 soon I hope) plus controllers on the lower shelf.

The games I plan to play is basically console ports where a controller is preferred. That’s usually when I miss the couch when I’m at my PC.
Elden Ring, Assassin’s Creed games, Hellblade 2, Horizon Forbidden West, Tomb Raider games, Returnal, Gears, TLOU, FF7 Remake/Rebirth, Spider-Man, etc.

Just realized one thing. Is it possible to emulate Xbox One, Xbox 360, PS4 or would I need to still have the consoles for older games?

If I still need the consoles for BC I could leave them on the wall shelves and place the PC on the bench below the TV, to the left of the center speaker in the first pic. Not ideal but would mean I’m not forced to wait for ports if something comes out and really blow me away. Plus would allow higher builds like the ncore 100 max without a problem. I really liked that one.

One of the most important things is the noise level. Is it possible to have a PC capable of running modern games in a small case without noise?

I’ve also been thinking about building a TV-only PC for gaming and then having that plus Switch 1 (soon to be 2) and getting rid of the ps5.
The ps5 still has a few exclusive games that keep me using it though:
Sony first party: GT7 and Ghost of Tsushima (rumored to be getting a PC port for years but never happened)
Vanillaware: they’ve never released a game on PC and Switch 1 ports are only 1080p.

 

[Fredrik]

I’ve also been thinking about building a TV-only PC for gaming and then having that plus Switch 1 (soon to be 2) and getting rid of the ps5.
The ps5 still has a few exclusive games that keep me using it though:
Sony first party: GT7 and Ghost of Tsushima (rumored to be getting a PC port for years but never happened)
Vanillaware: they’ve never released a game on PC and Switch 1 ports are only 1080p.

Yeah Sony’s games comes with some annoyances, delays. But after FFXVI and Spider-Man 2 last year I found that my interest kinda fade away once the launch hype is gone. There is some FOMO for awhile when people talk about the games but most games are story-focused and finished after a couple weeks and when the talk is gone it’s okay. I’m thinking if I’m still interested if they arrive on Steam then I’ll play them but otherwise they’ll go unplayed and I’m okay with that.

Backwards compatibility is a bigger problem for me if emulators aren’t up to the task yet. Sucks to have the consoles plugged in just for that.

 

[crazepharmacist]

I have a weird question.
I just disabled my motherboard onboard wifi and bluetooth in preparation to install a new wifi pce card i bought.
With wifi disabled in both windows and in the bios, and windows saying I'm not connected to any networks, I'm somehow still getting internet. A slow speed at 5 mbps download but still getting internet nonetheless. I'm not connected to ethernet. The only thing I can think of is my monitor: LG G9 OLED which is connected to wifi. It's connected to my PC via hdmi.

Could that somehow be giving my PC internet? Doesn't make sense to me.

I even disabled the Intel Wifi 6e device under device manager and still getting internet!

And here's the kicker. When I actually turn wifi on and connect to my router (which get 400 Mbps download speed), i'm still getting 5 Mbps speed.

It's like there's no different between turning wifi on or off.

So bizarre. I think I'm going to reformat my drive because this seems like a weird software bug.

 

[Yerd]

I have a weird question.
I just disabled my motherboard onboard wifi and bluetooth in preparation to install a new wifi pce card i bought.
With wifi disabled in both windows and in the bios, and windows saying I'm not connected to any networks, I'm somehow still getting internet. A slow speed at 5 mbps download but still getting internet nonetheless. I'm not connected to ethernet. The only thing I can think of is my monitor: LG G9 OLED which is connected to wifi. It's connected to my PC via hdmi.

Could that somehow be giving my PC internet? Doesn't make sense to me.

I even disabled the Intel Wifi 6e device under device manager and still getting internet!

And here's the kicker. When I actually turn wifi on and connect to my router (which get 400 Mbps download speed), i'm still getting 5 Mbps speed.

It's like there's no different between turning wifi on or off.

So bizarre. I think I'm going to reformat my drive because this seems like a weird software bug.

Properties of the internet connection will tell you what hardware is providing internet.

 

[crazepharmacist]

Properties of the internet connection will tell you what hardware is providing internet.

Thanks.

Just ended up reformatting and reinstalling Windows 11. Everything is working as it should now. Getting full speed (400 download) with the built in Wifi of my motherboard now.

 

[TrebleShot]

If you have a living room set up and an office with your main rig in it, do you stream to your living room?

Been thinking about this set up lately.

Steam Deck is good but does not support 120fps at 4k and can be sluggish especially with HDR support.

I tried connecting my Macbook to the screen but its a little cumbersome and the controller connection isnt great.

Nvidia Shield has worked with mixed results again seems to be issues with the connection to controllers etc.

Basically I want to remote play my PC to my living room with 120fps4k and controller support.

Anyone tried this or will I have to run a ridiculously long fibre HDMI or get a mini pc or even second gaming pc for the living room?

 

[THE:MILKMAN]

Hey PC peeps. I need to get myself a new PSU as my EVGA G2 failed a few weeks ago. I will be upgrading my PC to probably a mid-range AM5 around the end of the year and will possibly add a "mid-range"/bang for buck GPU if I decide to pass on the PS5 Pro (if it ever gets announced!).

I'm thinking a 650W unit is a nice coverall number and the options I've looked at are:

Corsair CV650 - 3 year warranty- fully wired - 80+ Bronze £65-£70 (seems pricey for the basic specs and short warranty but solid rep)
MSI MAG A650GL - 7 year warranty - fully modular - 80+ Gold £85 (ticks all the boxes but little history with PSUs?)
Seasonic Focus GX 650/750/850W - 10 year warranty - fully modular - 80+ Gold all 3 of these seem to cost £90 - £100 on regular offer. (impeccable in the PSU arena)

Is it just me or are any of the Seasonic trio a no-brainer here or way overkill for a mid-range PC? Tell me GAF.....

 

[danklord]

If you have a living room set up and an office with your main rig in it, do you stream to your living room?

Been thinking about this set up lately.

Steam Deck is good but does not support 120fps at 4k and can be sluggish especially with HDR support.

I tried connecting my Macbook to the screen but its a little cumbersome and the controller connection isnt great.

Nvidia Shield has worked with mixed results again seems to be issues with the connection to controllers etc.

Basically I want to remote play my PC to my living room with 120fps4k and controller support.

Anyone tried this or will I have to run a ridiculously long fibre HDMI or get a mini pc or even second gaming pc for the living room?

I've solved this riddle a million ways over the years and there's little doubt: an extra long HDMI cable is the way to go.

This cable has been by far the most reliable long distance HDMI cable I've used and the cable is actually flexible if you're routing outside along the floors.

I would also recommend a powered, extended USB 3.0 cable like this one - connected to it is a USB hub that allows me to use mouse/keyboard/wireless headset, since my PC is so far away.

Finally, highly recommend an air mouse remote like this one here. There's plenty of times I want to use the PC on the couch without getting a mouse and keyboard out.

It's also worth noting that I have my PC running to a TV in my office and then to another TV in my living room. For the last few months this has been kind of a hassle I have to reinitialize the TVs and go through some multi-monitor switching fun every time I want to play. I recently added this 4K hdmi splitter to my config and this essentially mirrors the signal from my PC to two TVs. This makes using my living room TV as a monitor super easy and I don't have to deal with display settings. Super smooth!

 

[Interfectum]

How much performance is lost due to heat with going with a small console sized case like fractal ridge?

Say a 7900xtx 7800x3d in a 216 vs ridge

The small form factor interests me but I’m worried about performance lost money wasted just for the cool form factor

I love my fractal terra. Chews up PC games at ultra, 4k and spits them out. Quiet as hell too. Makes PS5 games look two gens old:

 

[Celcius]

I love my fractal terra. Chews up PC games at ultra, 4k and spits them out. Quiet as hell too. Makes PS5 games look two gens old:

What specs do you have?

 

[Yerd]

Hey PC peeps. I need to get myself a new PSU as my EVGA G2 failed a few weeks ago. I will be upgrading my PC to probably a mid-range AM5 around the end of the year and will possibly add a "mid-range"/bang for buck GPU if I decide to pass on the PS5 Pro (if it ever gets announced!).

I'm thinking a 650W unit is a nice coverall number and the options I've looked at are:

Corsair CV650 - 3 year warranty- fully wired - 80+ Bronze £65-£70 (seems pricey for the basic specs and short warranty but solid rep)
MSI MAG A650GL - 7 year warranty - fully modular - 80+ Gold £85 (ticks all the boxes but little history with PSUs?)
Seasonic Focus GX 650/750/850W - 10 year warranty - fully modular - 80+ Gold all 3 of these seem to cost £90 - £100 on regular offer. (impeccable in the PSU arena)

Is it just me or are any of the Seasonic trio a no-brainer here or way overkill for a mid-range PC? Tell me GAF.....

Seasonic.

There's only a few brands that actually manufacture PSUs, and Seasonic is one of them. Most PSU brands you know are made by those few OEM companies. PSU is a pretty integral part of a PC and getting a good, reliable one will serve you well in the future. That 10 year warranty is also going to be handy.

I bought 2 Seasonic years ago, 2 different wattages and they lasted past those 10 years. One of them had to get warranty service and one of them died not long ago. Might have been the same one that went out for warranty, I didn't keep track.

 

[THE:MILKMAN]

Cheers, Yerd . Just checked and it is the GX 850W that is currently on offer today at the lowest price of the 3 wattages at £100 delivered next day. Will order whichever of the 3 is on offer at the weekend (they change daily).

 

[TrebleShot]

I've solved this riddle a million ways over the years and there's little doubt: an extra long HDMI cable is the way to go.

This cable has been by far the most reliable long distance HDMI cable I've used and the cable is actually flexible if you're routing outside along the floors.

I would also recommend a powered, extended USB 3.0 cable like this one - connected to it is a USB hub that allows me to use mouse/keyboard/wireless headset, since my PC is so far away.

Finally, highly recommend an air mouse remote like this one here. There's plenty of times I want to use the PC on the couch without getting a mouse and keyboard out.

It's also worth noting that I have my PC running to a TV in my office and then to another TV in my living room. For the last few months this has been kind of a hassle I have to reinitialize the TVs and go through some multi-monitor switching fun every time I want to play. I recently added this 4K hdmi splitter to my config and this essentially mirrors the signal from my PC to two TVs. This makes using my living room TV as a monitor super easy and I don't have to deal with display settings. Super smooth!

Absolutely amazing post thank you for the detail.
So does it carry sound?

I will need the splitter also as I have a 4090 and it only has one HDMI output and I use it connected to a LGC2 in the office.

I’ve already run a Ethernet from the TV area to the office which took a while to run it’s just the sheer amount of corners etc.

How did you deal with doors etc if you have any?

 

[danklord]

Absolutely amazing post thank you for the detail.
So does it carry sound?

I will need the splitter also as I have a 4090 and it only has one HDMI output and I use it connected to a LGC2 in the office.

I’ve already run a Ethernet from the TV area to the office which took a while to run it’s just the sheer amount of corners etc.

How did you deal with doors etc if you have any?

Have a 4090 as well, HDMI works just as HDMI should so no issues on audio. Full surround, dolby atmos, the works!

My setup is 4090 -> Spitter -> 1) S95B Oled in Office, 2) Sony x95k in Living Room - both running 144hz, VRR, HDR... no problems. The only thing that doesn't work is gsync, it will black out on occasion, but since VRR works it's really not an issue. The one I recommended allows for both TVs to mirror the signal, so it's very convenient, and it maintains monitor layout when the TV is turned off so that's a plus.

The cables are thin enough to run underneath the door without issues. I also am running ethernet to the living room as that's where my router is.

 

[TrebleShot]

Have a 4090 as well, HDMI works just as HDMI should so no issues on audio. Full surround, dolby atmos, the works!

My setup is 4090 -> Spitter -> 1) S95B Oled in Office, 2) Sony x95k in Living Room - both running 144hz, VRR, HDR... no problems. The only thing that doesn't work is gsync, it will black out on occasion, but since VRR works it's really not an issue. The one I recommended allows for both TVs to mirror the signal, so it's very convenient, and it maintains monitor layout when the TV is turned off so that's a plus.

The cables are thin enough to run underneath the door without issues. I also am running ethernet to the living room as that's where my router is.

Wow our setups are almost identical except I have all LG OLEDs in terms of distance how long you running? and is VRR essentially G-Sync?

I’m UK based so may have to find alts to what you sent

 

[Fredrik]

Input is needed! Astray and other experienced in ITX builds.

I’ll be posting specs and US dollar converted local prices, cry with me, and after that I hope I can get some advices where to lower specs to get a more sane price for a living room PC to replace Sony/MS consoles.

Case:
Cooler Master Ncore 100 Max - $479

Motherboard:
MSI MPG B650I Edge WIFI - $339

CPU:
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2GHz 104MB - $449

Graphics card:
MSI GeForce RTX 4080 Super 16GB Expert - $1549

RAM:
Kingston 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5200MHz CL36 FURY Beast - $145

SSD:
Samsung 990 PRO M.2 NVMe SSD 2TB - $240

OS:
Windows 11 Home - $199

Total: $3400

If I could go down below $3000 it would feel okay-ish. Lower than $2000 would be awesome. But I don’t want to find myself in a scenario where I can’t get 60fps in a year or 2 since I don’t have any VRR to hide stutter, every drop below 60 would cause a stutter down to 30 and I hate fps stutter.

 

[MikeM]

Input is needed! Astray and other experienced in ITX builds.

I’ll be posting specs and US dollar converted local prices, cry with me, and after that I hope I can get some advices where to lower specs to get a more sane price for a living room PC to replace Sony/MS consoles.

Case:
Cooler Master Ncore 100 Max - $479

Motherboard:
MSI MPG B650I Edge WIFI - $339

CPU:
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2GHz 104MB - $449

Graphics card:
MSI GeForce RTX 4080 Super 16GB Expert - $1549

RAM:
Kingston 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5200MHz CL36 FURY Beast - $145

SSD:
Samsung 990 PRO M.2 NVMe SSD 2TB - $240

OS:
Windows 11 Home - $199

Total: $3400

If I could go down below $3000 it would feel okay-ish. Lower than $2000 would be awesome. But I don’t want to find myself in a scenario where I can’t get 60fps in a year or 2 since I don’t have any VRR to hide stutter, every drop below 60 would cause a stutter down to 30 and I hate fps stutter.

Whats your goal? 4k 60fps? If so, that build is overkill. Also, why Nvidia over AMD?

Some opportunities to drive down cost:
- Motherboard. Not sure where you like, but there have got to he cheaper 650M options.
- Downgrade the CPU to a 7600x. I run one and I run 4k 120fps and am rarely ever CPU bound (7900xt gpu).
- GPU: why Nvidia? AMD is likely cheaper. My 7900xt has been rock solid.

 

[Astray]

Input is needed! Astray and other experienced in ITX builds.

I’ll be posting specs and US dollar converted local prices, cry with me, and after that I hope I can get some advices where to lower specs to get a more sane price for a living room PC to replace Sony/MS consoles.

Case:
Cooler Master Ncore 100 Max - $479

Motherboard:
MSI MPG B650I Edge WIFI - $339

CPU:
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2GHz 104MB - $449

Graphics card:
MSI GeForce RTX 4080 Super 16GB Expert - $1549

RAM:
Kingston 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5200MHz CL36 FURY Beast - $145

SSD:
Samsung 990 PRO M.2 NVMe SSD 2TB - $240

OS:
Windows 11 Home - $199

Total: $3400

If I could go down below $3000 it would feel okay-ish. Lower than $2000 would be awesome. But I don’t want to find myself in a scenario where I can’t get 60fps in a year or 2 since I don’t have any VRR to hide stutter, every drop below 60 would cause a stutter down to 30 and I hate fps stutter.

Probably drop down to rtx4070 super? Not sure what the cpu choice would be for that tho. Iirc you were planning on going 1080p and upscaling to 4k right?

If you don't have vrr then you will be enabling vsync and locking yourself to 60fps, so imo there is no point in going overkill on a PC when you don't have the TV that would take advantage of it.

Also, MSI Expert is a flow-through card, so I'd advise you to check whether the airflow would be complimentary to your case. If not then pick something different imo even if you still go for a 4080.

 

[Fredrik]

Whats your goal? 4k 60fps? If so, that build is overkill. Also, why Nvidia over AMD?

Some opportunities to drive down cost:
- Motherboard. Not sure where you like, but there have got to he cheaper 650M options.
- Downgrade the CPU to a 7600x. I run one and I run 4k 120fps and am rarely ever CPU bound (7900xt gpu).
- GPU: why Nvidia? AMD is likely cheaper. My 7900xt has been rock solid.

Don’t know much about AMD GPUs tbh, will look at some test on 7900xt.

Mostly chose Nvidia because of RT with DLSS as a backup plan. But I was going back and forth between 4080 super and 4070ti super, eventually got stuck on 4080 super because of a versus test where it was above 60fps in almost all games where 4070ti super would often drop into low 50s in 4K. Drops below 60 will look terrible on my TV.

The CPU I went with what gamers nexus thought was the best one for gaming. The 3D variations seems great for gaming. Don’t know how 7600x is, will check out some reviews.
Heard good things about 5800x3d too.

Motherboard, yeah no deeper thoughts there, saw it used in a build.

 

[Fredrik]

Probably drop down to rtx4070 super? Not sure what the cpu choice would be for that tho. Iirc you were planning on going 1080p and upscaling to 4k right?

If you don't have vrr then you will be enabling vsync and locking yourself to 60fps, so imo there is no point in going overkill on a PC when you don't have the TV that would take advantage of it.

Also, MSI Expert is a flow-through card, so I'd advise you to check whether the airflow would be complimentary to your case. If not then pick something different imo even if you still go for a 4080.

Hmm any recommendations there on a different graphics card with different cooling? I’m kinda lost on that one. Lacking experience. In general I like MSI because they’re often silent. I have a MSI Suprim X 4090 in the desktop PC and it’s amazing, but huge.

What about MSI GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super 16GB Gaming X Slim ? $1199

Regarding the resolution I’m thinking 4K should be possible to not get stuck in a scenario where I would rather want to play on consoles in the rare occasion where they hit 4K.
But staying above 60fps is the most important thing, drops looks terrible on this TV.

 

[twilo99]

I love my fractal terra. Chews up PC games at ultra, 4k and spits them out. Quiet as hell too. Makes PS5 games look two gens old:

Beautiful.

Technically the consoles are 3/4 generations behind compared to what you’ve got there.

 

[Astray]

Hmm any recommendations there on a different graphics card with different cooling? I’m kinda lost on that one. Lacking experience. In general I like MSI because they’re often silent. I have a MSI Suprim X 4090 in the desktop PC and it’s amazing, but huge.

What about MSI GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super 16GB Gaming X Slim ? $1199

Regarding the resolution I’m thinking 4K should be possible to not get stuck in a scenario where I would rather want to play on consoles in the rare occasion where they hit 4K.
But staying above 60fps is the most important thing, drops looks terrible on this TV.

MSI is a good brand, im just saying don't get the Expert (as amazing that one looks) because that might send hot air in places with no ventilation which will raise temps. ITX is far more sensitive to airflow schemes because of the compact space not allowing air to really move as well. I'd probably get the Ventus and save some cash because the Gaming Slim RGB stuff is largely useless to your case, and the cooler seems similar (same outside measurements).

If you're planning on 4k then go with the 4080 Super imo. MSRP should be around 1000 bucks iirc.

For Mobos that use AM5, go with this video imo. Machines and More is a great channel for itx stuff btw.

 

[THE:MILKMAN]

Cheers, Yerd . Just checked and it is the GX 850W that is currently on offer today at the lowest price of the 3 wattages at £100 delivered next day. Will order whichever of the 3 is on offer at the weekend (they change daily).

Seasonic PSU now ordered and surprisingly the 850W was £5 cheaper than the 650W and 750W for some reason. I'm also now erring toward upgrading my PC rather than going with a PS5 Pro but the question now is whether I should
upgrade my current AM4 system with say a 5800X3D and add a 4060/4070 Super or equivalent+32GB DDR4 (if needed?) or go all in on a full AM5 upgrade? Also will take the opportunity to finally change my monitor from the current very old (2013!?) budget Asus VE247H to a 24-27" that's good enough for gaming.

Any spec suggestions welcome.

 

[Fredrik]

MSI is a good brand, im just saying don't get the Expert (as amazing that one looks) because that might send hot air in places with no ventilation which will raise temps. ITX is far more sensitive to airflow schemes because of the compact space not allowing air to really move as well. I'd probably get the Ventus and save some cash because the Gaming Slim RGB stuff is largely useless to your case, and the cooler seems similar (same outside measurements).

If you're planning on 4k then go with the 4080 Super imo. MSRP should be around 1000 bucks iirc.

At my area I can only get a 4070 Super for 1000 bucks

The Ventus is too big according to the store building tool I’m looking at. But it must be wrong, Cooler Master says the case can take 3.9 slots. Ventus is 3.1 slots. Expert is 3 slots. The tool probably don’t handle decimals or something.

Regarding cooling on the Expert, it’s built like the FE from what I can tell. You know if any of the test websites have tried any FE cards?

For Mobos that use AM5, go with this video imo. Machines and More is a great channel for itx stuff btw.

Thanks will check it out asap!

 

[MikeM]

Don’t know much about AMD GPUs tbh, will look at some test on 7900xt.

Mostly chose Nvidia because of RT with DLSS as a backup plan. But I was going back and forth between 4080 super and 4070ti super, eventually got stuck on 4080 super because of a versus test where it was above 60fps in almost all games where 4070ti super would often drop into low 50s in 4K. Drops below 60 will look terrible on my TV.

The CPU I went with what gamers nexus thought was the best one for gaming. The 3D variations seems great for gaming. Don’t know how 7600x is, will check out some reviews.
Heard good things about 5800x3d too.

Motherboard, yeah no deeper thoughts there, saw it used in a build.

What games are you playing?

The good thing is that you can use FSR if you need a bump in FPS.

I would not go AM4. Go AM5 that way you have legs into the future if you want to upgrade.

A 4080 equivalent is roughly a 7900xtx on the AMD side. I’m using the 7900xt and its been plenty at 4k but I use slight upscaling if needed.

The RT on Nvidia is a pretty big difference but if you want to save some money, some sacrifices are required.

 

[MikeM]

Don’t know much about AMD GPUs tbh, will look at some test on 7900xt.

Mostly chose Nvidia because of RT with DLSS as a backup plan. But I was going back and forth between 4080 super and 4070ti super, eventually got stuck on 4080 super because of a versus test where it was above 60fps in almost all games where 4070ti super would often drop into low 50s in 4K. Drops below 60 will look terrible on my TV.

The CPU I went with what gamers nexus thought was the best one for gaming. The 3D variations seems great for gaming. Don’t know how 7600x is, will check out some reviews.
Heard good things about 5800x3d too.

Motherboard, yeah no deeper thoughts there, saw it used in a build.

Check out these relative performance benchmarks:

This is why i’m saying look at a 7600x CPU and a 7900xt if cost is something that will haunt you. At 4k, there aren’t massive differences and you will pay significantly more for a build you may not need.

 

[Fredrik]

What games are you playing?

The good thing is that you can use FSR if you need a bump in FPS.

I would not go AM4. Go AM5 that way you have legs into the future if you want to upgrade.

A 4080 equivalent is roughly a 7900xtx on the AMD side. I’m using the 7900xt and its been plenty at 4k but I use slight upscaling if needed.

The RT on Nvidia is a pretty big difference but if you want to save some money, some sacrifices are required.

Yeah some future proofing makes sense, won’t be a cheap build anyway. The idea is to completely phase out consoles with this build so I very much want to be able to play all new AAA games from Sony and MS at 60fps locked. Plus the usual third party games like new Assassin’s Creed, GTA, FF7 Rebirth and FFXVI, etc. I doubt I’ll play many first person games though, no plan to use mouse and keyboard in the living room.

7900XT and XTX are high up on all tests I’ve seen so far. Kinda interesting.
Sapphire Radeon RX 7900 XT 20GB Pulse Gaming OC - $949
Is that a good card? Noise-levels?

Or I could go down to a 4070 ti super to save some money. Some games do drop below 60 though and that makes me worried, would have to use DLSS3 frame generation,

 

[MikeM]

Yeah some future proofing makes sense, won’t be a cheap build anyway. The idea is to completely phase out consoles with this build so I very much want to be able to play all new AAA games from Sony and MS at 60fps locked. Plus the usual third party games like new Assassin’s Creed, GTA, FF7 Rebirth and FFXVI, etc. I doubt I’ll play many first person games though, no plan to use mouse and keyboard in the living room.

7900XT and XTX are high up on all tests I’ve seen so far. Kinda interesting.
Sapphire Radeon RX 7900 XT 20GB Pulse Gaming OC - $949
Is that a good card? Noise-levels?

Or I could go down to a 4070 ti super to save some money. Some games do drop below 60 though and that makes me worried, would have to use DLSS3 frame generation,

Regarding the 7900xt gaming OC- no idea. You’d have to search it but its likely fine and over-built. I run a reference card from AMD because it was the cheapest and its been fantastic. I also love the look of it. Did you check for the cheapest 7900xt?

4070ti super would be good as well. Whats the price difference between the cheapest 4070ti super vs 7900xt?

The drop below 60fps can likely be mitigated by upscaling or turning down settings from ultra to high (assuming the benchmark was running at ultra as they tend to).

 

[Fredrik]

Did you check for the cheapest 7900xt?

4070ti super would be good as well. Whats the price difference between the cheapest 4070ti super vs 7900xt?

MSI GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super 16GB Ventus 2X OC
$1069

vs

Sapphire Radeon RX 7900 XT 20GB Pulse Gaming OC
$949 (currently down from $1139)


After googling more I think I want the 4080 Super tbh, but it seems to be really difficult to find right now.

 

[Astray]

At my area I can only get a 4070 Super for 1000 bucks

The Ventus is too big according to the store building tool I’m looking at. But it must be wrong, Cooler Master says the case can take 3.9 slots. Ventus is 3.1 slots. Expert is 3 slots. The tool probably don’t handle decimals or something.

Regarding cooling on the Expert, it’s built like the FE from what I can tell. You know if any of the test websites have tried any FE cards?

4080 Super Ventus measurements are 322 x 136 x 62 mm

Ncore can take 337mm x 62mm x 180mm in its normal mode (3 slots wide).

Theoretically the card should fit with relative ease. Not sure if that includes power connector or not tho.

I don't think the Expert is a good idea unless we find a similar build and see temps.