ChubbleDucks
Member
The ks7000 in the UK is the Ks8000 in US
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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
The ks7000 in the UK is the Ks8000 in US
1.21Gigawatts
Banned
KS7090 is the exact model name on Amazon.de, for example. (I assume you're german because of your avatar, sad day yesterday.)
Unfortunately the model has been significantly more expensive here, then in the US.
More affordable models are the KU6300 in the US which is called KU6079 on Amazon.de
And the KU6409 on Amazon.de, I don't know what that model is called in the US, but it has a slightly better image than the Ku6300.
Both aren't as good as the KS7090, though.
Milly Osworth
Member
Yep. Why on earth Samsung would do that though....
PodcastFips
Member
And our KS8090 is the American KS9000? What about our KS9000 then?
Anyway, that's a gamechanger. I always thought the 8090 was equal to the 8000, but if that isn't the case, this thing gets a lot more affordable (around 1000 instead of 1500 for the 49 inch model).
1.21Gigawatts
Banned
So people don't get mad that the same model is sold for almost half the price in the US...
I've seen the 60 inch KS8000 offered for 1200$ in the US, the cheapest I've seen it in Germany was 1999
Milly Osworth
Member
I see it on webshops for 1299 euro here, but I read that they get the models from eastern europe or something >_>
I bought my 65" KS7005 (Nordic KS8000) for about 1500 on sale and I see different sizes for sale constantly one after the other. Never all of them on sale, just one.
I agree that the naming is completely ridiculous and confusing. There seem to be some small differences in firmware since each model has their own but I have no idea what that is about and why they just don't have a single firmware that handles any country-specific things there might be.
Art Vandilay
Member
Were your other 3 fine or are you saying you had to make 3 returns?
meltingparappa
Member
Here's a question --
I have my PS4 and pc both hooked up to the One connection box.
If the family is over and we're watching something wholesome on Netflix, if I take my computer out of sleep mode, the tv will automatically change inputs and blast all the terrible things I had on my PC into everyone's eyes.
Is there a way to change this?
I have my PS4 and pc both hooked up to the One connection box.
If the family is over and we're watching something wholesome on Netflix, if I take my computer out of sleep mode, the tv will automatically change inputs and blast all the terrible things I had on my PC into everyone's eyes.
Is there a way to change this?
infinityBCRT
Member
I wonder how many people who have the screen being too dark with dynamic contrast off haven't turned off the eco sensor.
KyleOnTheRun
Member
Does anyone else have a tiny (maybe quarter-inch or less) gap between the left bezel and the black screen? I noticed it today while dusting the frame. It's very slim, and seems to run down the entire length of the left side. The gap size seems uniform (it might be *slightly* narrower at the bottom).
On the right side, the black screen is flush with the bezel. I'm not sure if the left-side gap has been there since the beginning or if it's a recent development, but I haven't bumped my TV nor even touched it since hanging it a few months ago.
On the right side, the black screen is flush with the bezel. I'm not sure if the left-side gap has been there since the beginning or if it's a recent development, but I haven't bumped my TV nor even touched it since hanging it a few months ago.
Hello, I've had this TV since Thanksgiving and here are my impressions.
These are based off games for the PS4 Pro:
HDR enabled games: Dynamic Picture mode looks the best, with Dynamic Contrast high. There is an increase in lag but largely negligible, best used it for single player games. Use GAME mode for multiplayer with dynamic contrast high to insure the lag is minimal.
Non HDR games: Use Game mode, toggle dynamic contrast according to each title.
I know many people will swear that detail is lost with the Dynamic Contrast set to High, but I really believe it's subjective, without the Dynamic Contrast, many of the games seem to dark and washed out to me.
I can post my settings for NBA 2k17 or Hitman if needed.
These are based off games for the PS4 Pro:
HDR enabled games: Dynamic Picture mode looks the best, with Dynamic Contrast high. There is an increase in lag but largely negligible, best used it for single player games. Use GAME mode for multiplayer with dynamic contrast high to insure the lag is minimal.
Non HDR games: Use Game mode, toggle dynamic contrast according to each title.
I know many people will swear that detail is lost with the Dynamic Contrast set to High, but I really believe it's subjective, without the Dynamic Contrast, many of the games seem to dark and washed out to me.
I can post my settings for NBA 2k17 or Hitman if needed.
ss_lemonade
Member
I've only been playing FF 15 on my TV and dynamic contrast blows out whites and blacks. Almost like bringing it back to non hdr mode where you do lose detail. Never had the dark and washed out issue but then again, I've only tried FF 15.
I'm really close to pulling the trigger on this (KS7000 in EU).
Price had dropped from 1899 EUR at launch to 1199 EUR currently for the 55' one which starts to be VERY interesting.
It would serve as a replacement for a FULL HD 50incher from Sony (W805 from 2014, to be moved in the bedroom as a result) and to be used with both my PS4 Pro and my PC (hooked up to it, but also to the nearby living room desk sporting a 1440p/Gsync/IPS AOC Agon).
Now my question is : with only a couple of months max before all constructors 2017 offering, is it worth waiting to see what comes next? I just don't want to take the risk to "wait" for something that would end up costing 500-600 EUR more for the same range of performance just because it's new, and loose the opportunity to have this one at a discount when stocks are gone.
I've renounced on OLED, as much as I love it, but even the LG B6 cost twice the price wich I can't justify as a good family man. So I would only be looking into Samsung's upcoming Q series or next offering from Sony. Not willing to go lower than KS7000 level of perf either.
Price had dropped from 1899 EUR at launch to 1199 EUR currently for the 55' one which starts to be VERY interesting.
It would serve as a replacement for a FULL HD 50incher from Sony (W805 from 2014, to be moved in the bedroom as a result) and to be used with both my PS4 Pro and my PC (hooked up to it, but also to the nearby living room desk sporting a 1440p/Gsync/IPS AOC Agon).
Now my question is : with only a couple of months max before all constructors 2017 offering, is it worth waiting to see what comes next? I just don't want to take the risk to "wait" for something that would end up costing 500-600 EUR more for the same range of performance just because it's new, and loose the opportunity to have this one at a discount when stocks are gone.
I've renounced on OLED, as much as I love it, but even the LG B6 cost twice the price wich I can't justify as a good family man. So I would only be looking into Samsung's upcoming Q series or next offering from Sony. Not willing to go lower than KS7000 level of perf either.
Milly Osworth
Member
Where did you find it for 1199?
Belgium : vandenborre's online shop
Gemüsepizza
Member
Are there any major differences between the 49 inch and 55 inch model?
I wanted to buy the 55 inch version at first, but the smaller version might be good enough for me, considering I only sit 1.6m away from the TV. Buying the 49 inch TV also has the advantage that I don't have to buy new furniture and still have a bit money left to buy an UHD Blu-ray player and Horizon Zero Dawn / Mass Effect lol.
I wanted to buy the 55 inch version at first, but the smaller version might be good enough for me, considering I only sit 1.6m away from the TV. Buying the 49 inch TV also has the advantage that I don't have to buy new furniture and still have a bit money left to buy an UHD Blu-ray player and Horizon Zero Dawn / Mass Effect lol.
Have you tried changing your sound settings on the console? I was getting this when set to Dolby, but changed it to DTS and it stopped.
If you've got a 10-bit display the ps4 should automatically set it to YUV422 when on a HDR game. YUV420 and RGB will be just for non-HDR.
When my TV first played HDR it defaulted to medium Dynamic Contrast, it definitely looks better and I think it's supposed to be used on HDR. I use it on medium for HDR games and High for HDR video.
I did read somewhere that Dynamic Contrast works differently on HDR and is more of a brightness/vibrance setting and shouldn't lose detail. Looks much better either way.
No that didn't do anything to help. It only happens when I'm playing HDR content.
These are my settings on the Samsung KS9000 (Europe - just the curved version I believe):
Backlight = 20 (14 for non-HDR)
Brightness = 40
Contrast = 100 (90 for non HDR)
Sharpness = 15 (sometimes change depending on the game)
Color = 55
Tint = 50
Smart led = High
HDMI UHD = On
HDMI Black Level = Low (this only makes a difference for non-HDR)
Dynamic contrast = Medium
Color tone = standard
Gamma 0
Color space = Native
PS4 Settings
Resolution = Auto (should automatically set it to 2160p RGB for non-HDR and 2160p YUV422 for HDR. YUV 420 is worse and more compressed, don't get confused between this and YUV422. Think the PS4 Pro automatically sets it to YUV422 for HDR anyway)
Colour mode = Auto (which should automatically switch to Limited and ties in with the HDMI black level being Low on the TV. Full RGB is for PC monitors. Don't get confused into thinking Limited means worse). Colour mode only makes a difference for non-HDR.
Everything else at auto.
Backlight = 20 (14 for non-HDR)
Brightness = 40
Contrast = 100 (90 for non HDR)
Sharpness = 15 (sometimes change depending on the game)
Color = 55
Tint = 50
Smart led = High
HDMI UHD = On
HDMI Black Level = Low (this only makes a difference for non-HDR)
Dynamic contrast = Medium
Color tone = standard
Gamma 0
Color space = Native
PS4 Settings
Resolution = Auto (should automatically set it to 2160p RGB for non-HDR and 2160p YUV422 for HDR. YUV 420 is worse and more compressed, don't get confused between this and YUV422. Think the PS4 Pro automatically sets it to YUV422 for HDR anyway)
Colour mode = Auto (which should automatically switch to Limited and ties in with the HDMI black level being Low on the TV. Full RGB is for PC monitors. Don't get confused into thinking Limited means worse). Colour mode only makes a difference for non-HDR.
Everything else at auto.
Have you tried a new cable? Do you run it straight to the TV or via a receiver?
erotic grandpa
Member
While I've had great luck with HDR on my PS4 on this TV, trying to play Forza Horizon 3 with HDR hasn't been great. I've got HDR enabled for the HDMI port, the Xbox One S passes all of the 4K/HDR checks in the video menu, backlight cranked to the max, and the picture still looks duller and dingier than without HDR. Anything I'm doing wrong? Overlooking?
I've tried different cables and ports. No receiver.
I'm reverting back to stable firmware for ps4 to see if that makes a difference. I installed the beta fw the same time the tv went to 1160.
Try dynamic contrast on medium, I think Dynamic contrast is supposed to be used as this is what my TV defaulted to when first playing HDR content. Also I notice some games benefit more than others with having this switched on.
When it happens intermittently it's usually something to do with the 'handshake' process that HDMI cables do every so often, but the firmware has an effect on this so that may be the problem. Worth reporting as a bug if the stable firmware works okay.
What do you have your PS4 Pro resolution set to? Try setting everything to auto on the video options.
Gemüsepizza
Member
Had 2 60s and they both had light bleed on the bottom left of the screen. Switched to the 55" and it had several bleed spots on the bottom of the screen. On my 2nd 55" and finally no light bleed spots but the upscaling on blu rays is terrible.
Art Vandilay
Member
I hate to hear that. Not sure if I want to keep playing this game of chance or just take the refund. I got the EPP deal on the 55" so I know I won't find anything close to that on an OLED. Decisions....
Haven't had any issues with that. Do you have an AV receiver in between?
Not had an issue either. Maybe if you put in a custom name for it then it won't switch.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
No, it does it all the time. Annoying but not really a deal breaker. I'm routing everything through my receiver so I'm only using the one port on the TV but it switches based on what's being fed to it (Xbox, PS4, PC, etc.)
It's not a big deal because it's really irrelevant what it says. The TV treats them all the same EXCEPT PC, which has it's own settings, lag, etc. So as long as it's not switching to PC you really don't have to worry about it.
That doesn't help either, sadly. It will just change the next time you feed it a different device.
I have the ks8000 and I dunno if I'm crazy, if I have some settings wrong, or what, but I cannot tell a difference between hdr on or off for the input the PS4 pro is hooked up to.
It's also crazy that there's so many conflicting opinions even in this thread as to what to set everything to. This is all way too confusing for me, I can't even imagine for a regular user who's not super nerdy and scouring message boards.
It's also crazy that there's so many conflicting opinions even in this thread as to what to set everything to. This is all way too confusing for me, I can't even imagine for a regular user who's not super nerdy and scouring message boards.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
Which HDR-capable game are you testing this with?
One problem is that a lot of settings talk is very subjective. What might look right to you, may not look right for some. There is also variation from set to set with different panel makers and whatnot. Different lighting in people's homes, etc. Also, when it comes to HDR settings, RGB, YUV and whatnot, it's still early days and they haven't gotten this stuff nailed down yet. Try perusing AVSForums if you really want a headache.
As for "regular users", they won't bother coming to message boards to read about their TV sets. They'll either go with stock settings out of the box or adjust by eye to whatever looks good to them and then they'll just watch the set, blissfully unaware of all the settings and features talk.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Also worth noting that many of these settings (sharpness, dynamic contrast, etc) are not new or specific to 4K/HDR. Most users probably never touch them, and probably don't care. If you like Dynamic Contrast on high because it looks good to you, keep it on! I don't like it, so I keep it off.
M_A_C
Member
Yeah thats precisely my problem. I switch between PC and PS4 Pro all the time.
meltingparappa
Member
For me (not the person you're quoting), I've been playing FFXV for fifty hours and compulsively switching HDR on and off to try and see if my eyes can tell a difference.
I settled on forcing YUV420 in system settings for a while, because the probable placebo effect made me think it was more vivid with greater detail (even though there's horrendous banding during campfire scenes), but then this helpful reply on this page made sense to me:
..so then I switched it to automatic.
BUT THEN I saw this from another thread:
...which made me think manually forcing RGB is the way to go.
BUT THEN I just saw this from another thread:
...and suddenly my head hurts.
I think under normal circumstances, the easy way to test what's working best is to flip HDR on and off to see which one appears to have a greater depth of color. The difference is night and day on Amazon Prime content, but there's no startling difference in any of these settings in FFXV for me, and it's all mindgames and feeling like I might be missing out on a major selling point of the tv/pro.
PS4 Pro "Video Output Settings" set to Automatic everything
Samsung "Color Space" set to Auto
PS4 Pro will boot into RGB (the best setting for SDR content)
PS4 Pro will automatically switch into YUV422 when you start an HDR game (the best setting for HDR content)
PS4 Pro will automatically switch back to RGB when you close an HDR game (the best setting for SDR content)
Just manually set your Backlight to 20 when you start an HDR game.
The end.
Samsung "Color Space" set to Auto
PS4 Pro will boot into RGB (the best setting for SDR content)
PS4 Pro will automatically switch into YUV422 when you start an HDR game (the best setting for HDR content)
PS4 Pro will automatically switch back to RGB when you close an HDR game (the best setting for SDR content)
Just manually set your Backlight to 20 when you start an HDR game.
The end.
Pretty simple, thanks. Other than the Backlight I also have Contrast 85-90 for SDR and Smart LED to Low. So for HDR I max Contrast and then switch LED to High.
Do you have Contrast to 100 and Smart LED to High all the time?
No problem. I was actually in the same boat and asking the same questions in this thread when I got my TV last year, so I completely understand the confusion, haha.
And for anyone curious, note that when the PS4 Pro switches to and from RGB after playing an HDR game when it's set to "Automatic", the TV itself will handshake correctly when its Color Space is set to "Auto", and continue to give you "Full Range" without crushing.
I tested all of this with a color range test image after letting it handshake back and forth. If you want to try, pull up this link on your PS4's browser:
http://www.nicolaspeople.com/ch3rokeesblog/?p=16
I leave my Smart LED on high. It's kind of obnoxious on loading screens (it will backlight 1/3rd of the screen to light a tiny icon on an all black loading screen, that kind of thing), but it's not noticeable to me in any other scenario and helps a lot with HDR content.
I don't change it for SDR games. Maybe if they finally update the TV to allow for a separate set of settings for HDR games I'll look into it, but for now I'm just leaving it on high.
I settled on 97 for Contrast and 44 for Brightness after calibrating with a disc and looking at some HDR content.
As far as contrast goes, your best bet is to play an HDR game and look for an extreme white, then back down your contrast from 100 to see if you're clipping any detail at 100. I had originally had it at 100 after calibrating, but played The Witness in HDR and realized I was clipping a bit of detail when looking at some sunlight reflecting off some white rocks. Knocked it down to 97 and saw a little more detail.
Your mileage may vary, every panel is different.
meltingparappa
Member
This answer is simple, confident, and the most recent thing I've read. SOUNDS GREAT, I'll give it a go.
Thank you very much for clarifying in your second post, as well.
No problem. I tested all of the different setting scenarios for the same reasons you did.
If you tried a different combination of settings and it appears more "vivid" than the combination I suggest, pull up the Full Range test pattern and you'll find out that you're actually crushing your blacks with a setting mismatch. It's easy to be deceived, and was confused by it myself.