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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Regarding Smart LED on High...

I'm not so sure that's the best setting any more. I noticed in Yakuza 0 that the white text (which appears constantly because no English VA) would sometimes go light gray, or even portions of the white text would go light gray, then back to pure white when the scene or viewpoint changed. This phenomenon happens less the lower the Smart LED is set to. It hasn't been as obvious in other games or scenarios, but I would imagine that the effect is subtly there at all times.

So for now I have Smart LED set to Low, I believe, which seems to strike a nice balance.
 
Does anyone else have a tiny (maybe quarter-inch or less) gap between the left bezel and the black screen? I noticed it today while dusting the frame. It's very slim, and seems to run down the entire length of the left side. The gap size seems uniform (it might be *slightly* narrower at the bottom).

On the right side, the black screen is flush with the bezel. I'm not sure if the left-side gap has been there since the beginning or if it's a recent development, but I haven't bumped my TV nor even touched it since hanging it a few months ago.

Just thought I'd bump this since more folks are reading this thread over the last couple days.
 
This answer is simple, confident, and the most recent thing I've read. SOUNDS GREAT, I'll give it a go.

Thank you very much for clarifying in your second post, as well.

Just my two cents:

I have to disagree. I know they said the Color Space 'Auto' glitch was fixed in one of the firmware updates, but my results show that I still need to utilize the 'Native' Color Space. If the UHD is activated, everything looks really messed up unless I force the 'Full' color spectrum. The most obvious instance is in The Last of Us. Dark areas are completely black and incapable of being navigated without 'Full' set on the PS4, and Color Space 'Native' set on the KS8000. Everything set to auto simply isn't working the way that it should for me. When I check the output information on the PS4, it is always set to RGB when Auto is selected.

I would absolutely love for everything being set to 'Auto' on both the PS4 and the KS8000 to function like everyone says, but that simply is not the case for me at all.
 
Which HDR-capable game are you testing this with?



One problem is that a lot of settings talk is very subjective. What might look right to you, may not look right for some. There is also variation from set to set with different panel makers and whatnot. Different lighting in people's homes, etc. Also, when it comes to HDR settings, RGB, YUV and whatnot, it's still early days and they haven't gotten this stuff nailed down yet. Try perusing AVSForums if you really want a headache.

As for "regular users", they won't bother coming to message boards to read about their TV sets. They'll either go with stock settings out of the box or adjust by eye to whatever looks good to them and then they'll just watch the set, blissfully unaware of all the settings and features talk.


True, a regular user probably wouldn't even turn on the HDR mode for their input.

And agreed, all the settings just seem subjective. None of it seems outright "better," which is surprising to me because I've heard so much about how stunning HDR is and what a big upgrade. The biggest thing I'm confused about is the HDMI Black Level / PS4 Color mode. As long as I flip these both the right way in relation to each other I get decent looking results either way.

No matter what I do, nothing ever looks like it *pops* super brighter than it does with HDR off, or that drastically different at all. There's some stuff that crunches blacks and some stuff that washes stuff out, but nothing that makes me think I'm clearly just seeing a ton more information from dark to light to super bright. And I'm an art director in VFX / post production so overseeing color correction is a regular part of my job. I'm used to pixel fucking for banding / shimmering / etc, but no matter how I set the settings nothing seems just outright *better* than anything else. There's certainly differences, but it all seems subjective.

The games I currently have that are HDR optimized are Second Son and Skyrim Remastered. I have rented Ratchet and Clank and Uncharted 4 as well though.
 
Everything set to auto simply isn't working the way that it should for me. When I check the output information on the PS4, it is always set to RGB when Auto is selected.

So when you're running an HDR game, keep it running in the background and go to your PS4 settings to look at the output information, it still says that it's outputting RGB and not YUV422?

That's definitely not the case for me when everything is set to Automatic.
 
True, a regular user probably wouldn't even turn on the HDR mode for their input.

And agreed, all the settings just seem subjective. None of it seems outright "better," which is surprising to me because I've heard so much about how stunning HDR is and what a big upgrade. The biggest thing I'm confused about is the HDMI Black Level / PS4 Color mode. As long as I flip these both the right way in relation to each other I get decent looking results either way.

No matter what I do, nothing ever looks like it *pops* super brighter than it does with HDR off, or that drastically different at all. There's some stuff that crunches blacks and some stuff that washes stuff out, but nothing that makes me think I'm clearly just seeing a ton more information from dark to light to super bright. And I'm an art director in VFX / post production so overseeing color correction is a regular part of my job. I'm used to pixel fucking for banding / shimmering / etc, but no matter how I set the settings nothing seems just outright *better* than anything else. There's certainly differences, but it all seems subjective.

The games I currently have that are HDR optimized are Second Son and Skyrim Remastered. I have rented Ratchet and Clank and Uncharted 4 as well though.

The other day I described HDR to someone as being like rumble on a controller. You may not really notice it when its there, but you'll miss it when it's gone.
 
Just an update for anyone in the same boat -- I tried the following HDR settings and there is a noticeable difference.

I was staring at a silhouetted mountain in FFXV, and there was definitely more detail with HDR on. It's not mind-blowing amazing like some enthusiastic impressions make it out to be, but maybe it would be on a game like Ratchet and Clank.

Regardless, this works. Thanks again!

PS4Pro "Video Output Settings" set to Automatic everything
Samsung "Color Space" set to Auto

PS4 Pro will boot into RGB (the best setting for SDR content)
PS4 Pro will automatically switch into YUV422 when you start an HDR game (the best setting for HDR content)
PS4 Pro will automatically switch back to RGB when you close an HDR game (the best setting for SDR content)

Just manually set your Backlight to 20 when you start an HDR game.

The end.
 
Anyone know how to fix the washed-out black issue? I'm playing RE7, and while looking into the night sky...it looks like a tyedye shirt of different shades of black/gray. Like an oil stain.

It's weird, and off putting.
 
Ok GAF, help me. This TV is on sale this week over here and I've been contemplating getting the 55-inch one. I currently have a 42-inch LG full HD with 4ms input lag to game on and I sit about 9 feet (250cm) from the TV. The thing is that I would mostly play maxed out pc games in 1080p on it, watch Netflix, and maaaaybe get a ps4 pro down the line, but not sure about that. Will it be worth it for me to upgrade?

I feel that my 42-inch is a bit small for the distance I'm sitting from it but I'm not sure if I should tough it out and wait for the OLEDS to become cheaper before getting a new one. I'm also worried the added input lag will be really noticeable for me. I'm also not sure how the upscaled 1080p content will look since that will be 90% of what I use the TV for.
 
Anyone know how to fix the washed-out black issue? I'm playing RE7, and while looking into the night sky...it looks like a tyedye shirt of different shades of black/gray. Like an oil stain.

It's weird, and off putting.

Only played the demo so not seen the sky, but could be bad textures for the sky, or you might have your brightness turned up too high, check the in game calibration. Possible sharpness too high could make the problem more obvious too.
 
Ok GAF, help me. This TV is on sale this week over here and I've been contemplating getting the 55-inch one. I currently have a 42-inch LG full HD with 4ms input lag to game on and I sit about 9 feet (250cm) from the TV. The thing is that I would mostly play maxed out pc games in 1080p on it, watch Netflix, and maaaaybe get a ps4 pro down the line, but not sure about that. Will it be worth it for me to upgrade?

I feel that my 42-inch is a bit small for the distance I'm sitting from it but I'm not sure if I should tough it out and wait for the OLEDS to become cheaper before getting a new one. I'm also worried the added input lag will be really noticeable for me. I'm also not sure how the upscaled 1080p content will look since that will be 90% of what I use the TV for.

I have a 49" and I play the Witcher 3 on my PS4 Pro at 1080p, looks pretty sweet so I imagine PC on max settings should look great.

May be waiting a long time for OLEDs to come down, depends what your budget is.
 
I have a 49" and I play the Witcher 3 on my PS4 Pro at 1080p, looks pretty sweet so I imagine PC on max settings should look great.

May be waiting a long time for OLEDs to come down, depends what your budget is.

Thanks for the reply. I decided to get it, will pick it up later today :)
 
I heard from a review on youtube that ks8000's are susceptible to opening up a gap because the screen heat melts some glue in the frame or something like that

I've seen similar, but the front panel issue is a little different, I think. Rather than a gap opening between the frame and back panel when viewed from the side, it's like the "seating" of the screen within the frame is slightly off.

I wish I'd had the wherewithal to take a picture, but can't right now (at work). When looking straight-on from the front, you can see an ever-so-slight gap between the left frame edge and the black screen, while along the right edge, it's flush.
 
So, this is going to be a generally dumb question. I'm eyeing up a KS8000 myself - specifically this one - I've been trying to skim this thread looking for issues with this set and I was kind of hoping someone could give a quick rundown on whether or not the set is generally worth it.

Also, how do 1080p blurays generally look on one of these sets?
 
Ok GAF, help me. This TV is on sale this week over here and I've been contemplating getting the 55-inch one. I currently have a 42-inch LG full HD with 4ms input lag to game on and I sit about 9 feet (250cm) from the TV. The thing is that I would mostly play maxed out pc games in 1080p on it, watch Netflix, and maaaaybe get a ps4 pro down the line, but not sure about that. Will it be worth it for me to upgrade?

I feel that my 42-inch is a bit small for the distance I'm sitting from it but I'm not sure if I should tough it out and wait for the OLEDS to become cheaper before getting a new one. I'm also worried the added input lag will be really noticeable for me. I'm also not sure how the upscaled 1080p content will look since that will be 90% of what I use the TV for.
1080p games look just fine on it. It isn't as razor sharp as a native 1080p set, but the only time you'll notice that is if you move really close to the screen to spot the differences.

So, this is going to be a generally dumb question. I'm eyeing up a KS8000 myself - specifically this one - I've been trying to skim this thread looking for issues with this set and I was kind of hoping someone could give a quick rundown on whether or not the set is generally worth it.

Also, how do 1080p blurays generally look on one of these sets?
Pretty good so far. I can't really tell much of a difference image quality wise between it and a 1080p tv we also have
 
So, this is going to be a generally dumb question. I'm eyeing up a KS8000 myself - specifically this one - I've been trying to skim this thread looking for issues with this set and I was kind of hoping someone could give a quick rundown on whether or not the set is generally worth it.

Also, how do 1080p blurays generally look on one of these sets?

Upscaling is OK but it really shines in native 4K. Even watching Netflix/YouTube 4K stuff is a pretty large jump over a 1080p stream. Streaming 4K isn't as good as watching a 4k movie on physical media of course, but it still looks darn good IMO. I got in on the Amazon deal and got a 60 inch for $1095.00. Very happy with my purchase. Plus, playing on my Pro really sells it, too. Ratchet and Clank, Tomb Raider all look fantastic. I have a feeling Horizon Zero Dawn is going to melt my face.
 
So I haven't tried a blu ray on my ps4 I guess since I got this tv. I just put in the Trolls movie and tv says hdr. Is that normal? Do I need to set it to non-hdr or something?
 
So when you're running an HDR game, keep it running in the background and go to your PS4 settings to look at the output information, it still says that it's outputting RGB and not YUV422?

That's definitely not the case for me when everything is set to Automatic.

Wait it's supposed to say YUV422? Because no matter what I do or what game is in and running it still says RGB...
 
Wait it's supposed to say YUV422? Because no matter what I do or what game is in and running it still says RGB...
I swear before mine would be set to YUV420 automatic but now its on RGB

For me, when I play an HDR game, the TV itself will display a banner alerting me that HDR is playing. At that point, if I minimize the game, the PS4 Pro will say it's outputting YUV422 (with the aforementioned PS4/TV settings) if I look at it in the menus.

I'm trying to think why that wouldn't be the case for some people.

Do you have "HDMI UHD Color" on the Samsung switched to On for the HDMI port your PS4 is connected to?

What's your TV firmware version?

Are you using Game Mode?
 
For me, when I play an HDR game, the TV itself will display a banner alerting me that HDR is playing. At that point, if I minimize the game, the PS4 Pro will say it's outputting YUV422 (with the aforementioned PS4/TV settings) if I look at it in the menus.

I'm trying to think why that wouldn't be the case for some people.

Do you have "HDMI UHD Color" on the Samsung switched to On for the HDMI port your PS4 is connected to?

What's your TV firmware version?

Are you using Game Mode?

I have yet to try an HDR game so I'm re-downloading infamous to check it out. I have everything set to auto and I do get YUV422, I'm interested to see if I get the HDR banner.
 
I have yet to try an HDR game so I'm re-downloading infamous to check it out. I have everything set to auto and I do get YUV422, I'm interested to see if I get the HDR banner.

It should be outputting RGB, and only display YUV422 when HDR content is playing (that includes RGB for non-HDR PS4 Pro games).
 
Blurays look great.

They do, upscale very well. Particularly if you set the sharpness up to about 40 it's not too far off 4k quality. I'm on 49" though, may be a bit more of a difference on larger tv's. HDR+ mode looks pretty cool on blurays, but you will see a bit of backlight bleed on the black bars (if backlight is set max) as the back lighting comes from the top and bottom, get used to it though.
 
I'm on day 5 of owning the 55" KS8500 (same as the US KS8000/ UK KS7000, just curved), and have been playing around with HDR settings.

I watched Digital Foundry's video on how to set up Samsung's 2016 line for the PS4 Pro to view HDR. The first thing I did, just to display HDR properly, was turn Game Mode On, Set UHD Color to On under the HDMI Input, and manually adjust my backlight to 20. Everything else was left at their stock settings (Everything set to Auto on the PS4 end, everything else set to factory standard on the TV). Ran Infamous: First Light and wow, it looked great!

Then I got to adjusting the settings using what they laid out in the video (Contrast from 100 to 90, Dynamic Contrast off, Color from Standard to Warm 1/Warm 2, Sharpness from 50 to 0). And it looked...awful. The entire image was very dark, blacks were completely crushed and highlights were not as bright as they had been. I couldn't make out any detail on Fetch unless I was in standing near neon or enabling the Neon run.

I asked for on AVS Forums about this, and it turns out Dynamic Contrast should be turned on while running HDR content, as everything is generally way too dark in HDR mode without it. Turning it back to High or Medium fixed this.

I'm still working on my preferred settings, but just wanted to let you know that Digital Foundry's settings are kinda meh.
 
My decision stands: I need this TV until mid-march. Currently the 49" is priced at 1150€, but there were offers of 900-1000€... I hope there will be another promotion soon.
 
I finally figured out exactly what's wrong. Only when playing on my ps4 pro, edges of black have thin blue/green line. There must be a setting that can fix this.
 
I'm on day 5 of owning the 55" KS8500 (same as the US KS8000/ UK KS7000, just curved), and have been playing around with HDR settings.

I watched Digital Foundry's video on how to set up Samsung's 2016 line for the PS4 Pro to view HDR. The first thing I did, just to display HDR properly, was turn Game Mode On, Set UHD Color to On under the HDMI Input, and manually adjust my backlight to 20. Everything else was left at their stock settings (Everything set to Auto on the PS4 end, everything else set to factory standard on the TV). Ran Infamous: First Light and wow, it looked great!

Then I got to adjusting the settings using what they laid out in the video (Contrast from 100 to 90, Dynamic Contrast off, Color from Standard to Warm 1/Warm 2, Sharpness from 50 to 0). And it looked...awful. The entire image was very dark, blacks were completely crushed and highlights were not as bright as they had been. I couldn't make out any detail on Fetch unless I was in standing near neon or enabling the Neon run.

I asked for on AVS Forums about this, and it turns out Dynamic Contrast should be turned on while running HDR content, as everything is generally way too dark in HDR mode without it. Turning it back to High or Medium fixed this.

I'm still working on my preferred settings, but just wanted to let you know that Digital Foundry's settings are kinda meh.

Agreed. I think they're done by using calibration tools, much better to use your own eyes. Much prefer standard colour tone for games and Dynamic contrast makes a huge difference (helps get the most out of the TV and as near to OLED as possible in my opinion).
 
I finally figured out exactly what's wrong. Only when playing on my ps4 pro, edges of black have thin blue/green line. There must be a setting that can fix this.

Maybe look into the colour spacing settings, or set the colour tint more towards Red.
 
Since I digged into the whole settings- and HDR-stuff, I thought it might be helpful for some people if I wrote it down in a single post. I own the German model KS7090, which equivalent in the US should be the KS8000. There is a splendid post in a German forum on how to set up a Samsung-TV, which settings to avoid and so on, here is a link: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-151-28898.html . The following information is based on that, mixed with own tests and other sources. There is no guarantee that it is 100 % accurate but it could give you a valuable headstart on how to get the best out of your new TV.

First of all: I think you should NOT simply copy other people’s settings, since even two devices assembled in the same factory on the same day can have differences on how they display the connected content. This is true especially for the 2- and 10-point white balance stuff. But this doesn’t mean that there aren’t some rules on how to get near a very good, natural looking picture without having to buy additional hardware to measure stuff.

Some considerations first: let your TV run for 15 minutes before you start the adjustments. Additionally, download the linked test-image (Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ) and put it on an USB-stick, we will need it later on. Then a hint concerning the resulting image on diplay: when you are finished with the settings and ready to give it a try with some gaming, tv-series or movies, give your eyes some time getting used to the maybe vastly different appearance. It might very well be that you were using a far too bright, colorful, over-sharpened setting and the new setup seems a little bit too red, dim and/or soft in comparison. But trust me: the latter one should be much nearer to a natural and pleasant look, it just needs some time to adjust and then you won’t miss the old crap one bit.

Additions concerning HDR: there seems to be a misconception when talking about HDR and you might have to adjust your expectations, otherwise you might tune the device into false directions. If you are unsure, maybe read something like the first post under this link (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...2442082-hdr-misconceptions-still-prevail.html ). To make it short: the way I understand it, HDR DOES NOT mean, that the picture in HDR suddenly has popping colors all over it and is bright as the sun. No, I think it is rather far more capable to use the available range in color and brightness more effectively, carving out more details that would otherwise drown in the whites of a sunny sky or the blacks of a nightly forest, so to say. I am no expert, but that is how I understand it. So if you are disappointed at first that the image in HDR suddenly gets dimmer and not flashy, even after calibrating the set with my tips, give it an honest try, I think you won’t miss a thing from SDR!

In the following section I will go through the different options piece by piece and give some information on how to tackle it. I won’t go into it too deep though, but I mention differences for SDR- versus HDR-content where I see fit.

Picture Mode: Movie
This should be the definite basis for all further adjustments, so better take it.

Special Viewing Mode: Game Mode On if you are sensitive to input lag in games, if not, then Off is fine

Picture Size:
Fit to screen should be On to not lose any picture information on the edges.

Backlight: 5 at night, maybe more by day.
This controls the brightness of the panel and you pretty much can set it up how you like. In HDR-mode, this should automatically turn to max (20) and that is the right way for that kind of content.

Brightness: let it on the default setting (should be 45 or something near that)
The default setting should be pretty much okay so you can leave it alone.

Contrast: let it on the default setting (should be 100 or something near that)
Contrast is the less important setting, compared to Brightness and should already be very good by default

Edit: Additional information from Aske, thank you!


Sharpness: 0 or something in the range up to 20
I personally would leave it at Zero, since there should not be any necessity for artificial sharpening of proper HD- or UHD-material. There might be a difference though when using PC-Mode: I’ve read that the equivalent setting there is 50 instead of 0, but I have no confirmation on that at the moment.

Edit: Another additional information from Aske.


Color: leave it on default (should be 50)
Color should be set up just fine ex factory.

Tint (G/R): leave it on default (should be G50/R50)

Digital Clean View: Off, maybe Auto
Leave it Off unless you see some annoying grain in the picture. But I would leave it Off.

Auto Motion Plus: Custom
  • Blur Reduction: 10
  • Judder Reduction: 1-3
  • LED Clear Motion: Off

I personally like Auto Motion Plus, since it works very efficiently in removing judder when the camera pans. Blur Reduction can be set to max, but Judder Reduction should be not higher than maybe 5 to avoid the not so cool looking “Soap Opera Effect”. If you are not susceptible to judder in camera motion, then maybe leave it off.

Additionaly, you can test for artifacts in the judder-test-videos of this guy on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/user/BitPusher321 .

Focus on the edges of the screen and test, whether you see black pixelation/ tearing, something like that (I don't know what to call it exactly ^^). If you do and it bothers you, then reduce the Judder Reduction. Try it with game mode OFF though, since Auto Motion Plus is not available in that mode, as far as I know.

Smart LED: Low for SDR, High for HDR
Since it is available, Smart-LED should be used, even in SDR. I recommend Low for SDR. In HDR this should be High.

HDMI UHD Color: On for all HDMI-ports where HDR-content is available.

HDMI Black Level: Auto
PS4 for example should be set to the Auto concerning RGB. If you are not sure whether it works correctly, try switching the HDMI-Black-Level-setting and see if the picture suddenly gets washed out or too dark. It is important that the connected device and the TV are both in the right mode.

Dynamic Contrast: Off
Leave that off, you want to avoid as much artificial stuff on top of the signal as possible. There might be a wow-effect when using it in conjunction with HDR-material though (and I personally am not sure right now, whether it should be On in HDR-mode or not). I’ve tested it with The Grand Tour on Amazon Video and it seems that there is a loss of information in bright areas (when looking into the sun, it becomes a bright mess when DC is on). Right now I think is best turned OFF at all times to get the most natural picture!

Colour Tone: Warm2
Try the setting Warm2. If you think it is too red, don’t worry: on the one hand, this reaction is normal when coming from an unnatural cold setting. On the other hand, the following white balance can correct some unwanted tints in the white and grey spectrum. If you can’t stand the look of it no matter what, you can switch to Warm1.

White Balance:
Before adjusting anything here, be sure to set up Colour Tone (I recommend Warm2) and Colour Space (I recommend Auto)! For the adjustments, we need the test image from the beginning of the post on an USB-stick or something ( Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ). The goal is to remove any tint of grey and white shades that might have been introduced by our settings so far. And don’t worry, you don’t have to be an expert to get at least the most basic adjustments right.
  • 2 Point:
This adjusts two ranges of brightness, the darker one (Offset) and the brighter one (Gain), separate for each color-channel red, green and blue. Start with the Gain-settings since they are more visible. Here, firstly focus on the Red and Blue-Gains, Green can have side-effects. I personally have just changed R-Gain and B-Gain for now, maybe I will put some more time into it in the future. So, load up the test image and adjust the R-Gain and then the B-Gain. The aim is a perfectly white background while keeping the skin tone of the women natural. A light warm touch in the whites is acceptable too. To get rid of a red cast it might be necessary to dial down the R-Gain or turning up the B-Gain, or a combination. Don’t get carried away though but try values in the range of +/- 10, or 15 tops. I for example settled (at the moment) with the following values, the rest being 0:​
  • R-Gain: -5
  • B-Gain: 7
But again: don’t copy them but try to get it right for YOUR panel, it is worth it!​

  • 10 Point: Off
Unless you are an expert (why are you reading this then? :) and/or have calibration tools, don’t bother adjusting the 10 point setting​


Gamma: -1, maybe -2
To make the Gamma higher, you have to go in the negative direction. I would recommend the setting -1

RGB Only Mode: Off, definitively :)


Colour Space: Auto
This setting should be fine for SDR- and HDR-content as well.


I hope my thoughts help some people and all of us a Merry Christmas!

Edit: test-image is now in 4k. Added additional information from other user, thank you!

Edit #2: in parts changed and added information in the Auto Motion Plus-section.

Just quoting this post again because this was the solution, at least for me. Worked beautifully and I think more people should try this. :)
 
Since I digged into the whole settings- and HDR-stuff, I thought it might be helpful for some people if I wrote it down in a single post. I own the German model KS7090, which equivalent in the US should be the KS8000. There is a splendid post in a German forum on how to set up a Samsung-TV, which settings to avoid and so on, here is a link: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-151-28898.html . The following information is based on that, mixed with own tests and other sources. There is no guarantee that it is 100 % accurate but it could give you a valuable headstart on how to get the best out of your new TV.

First of all: I think you should NOT simply copy other people’s settings, since even two devices assembled in the same factory on the same day can have differences on how they display the connected content. This is true especially for the 2- and 10-point white balance stuff. But this doesn’t mean that there aren’t some rules on how to get near a very good, natural looking picture without having to buy additional hardware to measure stuff.

Some considerations first: let your TV run for 15 minutes before you start the adjustments. Additionally, download the linked test-image (Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ) and put it on an USB-stick, we will need it later on. Then a hint concerning the resulting image on diplay: when you are finished with the settings and ready to give it a try with some gaming, tv-series or movies, give your eyes some time getting used to the maybe vastly different appearance. It might very well be that you were using a far too bright, colorful, over-sharpened setting and the new setup seems a little bit too red, dim and/or soft in comparison. But trust me: the latter one should be much nearer to a natural and pleasant look, it just needs some time to adjust and then you won’t miss the old crap one bit.

Additions concerning HDR: there seems to be a misconception when talking about HDR and you might have to adjust your expectations, otherwise you might tune the device into false directions. If you are unsure, maybe read something like the first post under this link (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...2442082-hdr-misconceptions-still-prevail.html ). To make it short: the way I understand it, HDR DOES NOT mean, that the picture in HDR suddenly has popping colors all over it and is bright as the sun. No, I think it is rather far more capable to use the available range in color and brightness more effectively, carving out more details that would otherwise drown in the whites of a sunny sky or the blacks of a nightly forest, so to say. I am no expert, but that is how I understand it. So if you are disappointed at first that the image in HDR suddenly gets dimmer and not flashy, even after calibrating the set with my tips, give it an honest try, I think you won’t miss a thing from SDR!

In the following section I will go through the different options piece by piece and give some information on how to tackle it. I won’t go into it too deep though, but I mention differences for SDR- versus HDR-content where I see fit.

Picture Mode: Movie
This should be the definite basis for all further adjustments, so better take it.

Special Viewing Mode: Game Mode On if you are sensitive to input lag in games, if not, then Off is fine

Picture Size:
Fit to screen should be On to not lose any picture information on the edges.

Backlight: 5 at night, maybe more by day.
This controls the brightness of the panel and you pretty much can set it up how you like. In HDR-mode, this should automatically turn to max (20) and that is the right way for that kind of content.

Brightness: let it on the default setting (should be 45 or something near that)
The default setting should be pretty much okay so you can leave it alone.

Contrast: let it on the default setting (should be 100 or something near that)
Contrast is the less important setting, compared to Brightness and should already be very good by default

Edit: Additional information from Aske, thank you!


Sharpness: 0 or something in the range up to 20
I personally would leave it at Zero, since there should not be any necessity for artificial sharpening of proper HD- or UHD-material. There might be a difference though when using PC-Mode: I’ve read that the equivalent setting there is 50 instead of 0, but I have no confirmation on that at the moment.

Edit: Another additional information from Aske.


Color: leave it on default (should be 50)
Color should be set up just fine ex factory.

Tint (G/R): leave it on default (should be G50/R50)

Digital Clean View: Off, maybe Auto
Leave it Off unless you see some annoying grain in the picture. But I would leave it Off.

Auto Motion Plus: Custom
  • Blur Reduction: 10
  • Judder Reduction: 1-3
  • LED Clear Motion: Off

I personally like Auto Motion Plus, since it works very efficiently in removing judder when the camera pans. Blur Reduction can be set to max, but Judder Reduction should be not higher than maybe 5 to avoid the not so cool looking “Soap Opera Effect”. If you are not susceptible to judder in camera motion, then maybe leave it off.

Additionaly, you can test for artifacts in the judder-test-videos of this guy on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/user/BitPusher321 .

Focus on the edges of the screen and test, whether you see black pixelation/ tearing, something like that (I don't know what to call it exactly ^^). If you do and it bothers you, then reduce the Judder Reduction. Try it with game mode OFF though, since Auto Motion Plus is not available in that mode, as far as I know.

Smart LED: Low for SDR, High for HDR
Since it is available, Smart-LED should be used, even in SDR. I recommend Low for SDR. In HDR this should be High.

HDMI UHD Color: On for all HDMI-ports where HDR-content is available.

HDMI Black Level: Auto
PS4 for example should be set to the Auto concerning RGB. If you are not sure whether it works correctly, try switching the HDMI-Black-Level-setting and see if the picture suddenly gets washed out or too dark. It is important that the connected device and the TV are both in the right mode.

Dynamic Contrast: Off
Leave that off, you want to avoid as much artificial stuff on top of the signal as possible. There might be a wow-effect when using it in conjunction with HDR-material though (and I personally am not sure right now, whether it should be On in HDR-mode or not). I’ve tested it with The Grand Tour on Amazon Video and it seems that there is a loss of information in bright areas (when looking into the sun, it becomes a bright mess when DC is on). Right now I think is best turned OFF at all times to get the most natural picture!

Colour Tone: Warm2
Try the setting Warm2. If you think it is too red, don’t worry: on the one hand, this reaction is normal when coming from an unnatural cold setting. On the other hand, the following white balance can correct some unwanted tints in the white and grey spectrum. If you can’t stand the look of it no matter what, you can switch to Warm1.

White Balance:
Before adjusting anything here, be sure to set up Colour Tone (I recommend Warm2) and Colour Space (I recommend Auto)! For the adjustments, we need the test image from the beginning of the post on an USB-stick or something ( Edit: now in 4k: http://burosch.de/images/directdownload/06_Universaltestbild First-CheckUHD.jpg ). The goal is to remove any tint of grey and white shades that might have been introduced by our settings so far. And don’t worry, you don’t have to be an expert to get at least the most basic adjustments right.
  • 2 Point:
This adjusts two ranges of brightness, the darker one (Offset) and the brighter one (Gain), separate for each color-channel red, green and blue. Start with the Gain-settings since they are more visible. Here, firstly focus on the Red and Blue-Gains, Green can have side-effects. I personally have just changed R-Gain and B-Gain for now, maybe I will put some more time into it in the future. So, load up the test image and adjust the R-Gain and then the B-Gain. The aim is a perfectly white background while keeping the skin tone of the women natural. A light warm touch in the whites is acceptable too. To get rid of a red cast it might be necessary to dial down the R-Gain or turning up the B-Gain, or a combination. Don’t get carried away though but try values in the range of +/- 10, or 15 tops. I for example settled (at the moment) with the following values, the rest being 0:​
  • R-Gain: -5
  • B-Gain: 7
But again: don’t copy them but try to get it right for YOUR panel, it is worth it!​

  • 10 Point: Off
Unless you are an expert (why are you reading this then? :) and/or have calibration tools, don’t bother adjusting the 10 point setting​


Gamma: -1, maybe -2
To make the Gamma higher, you have to go in the negative direction. I would recommend the setting -1

RGB Only Mode: Off, definitively :)


Colour Space: Auto
This setting should be fine for SDR- and HDR-content as well.


I hope my thoughts help some people and all of us a Merry Christmas!

Edit: test-image is now in 4k. Added additional information from other user, thank you!

Edit #2: in parts changed and added information in the Auto Motion Plus-section.

I think you didn't mention it but this is oh-so-important as well-- turn off eco sensor! otherwise the image will be too dim with dynamic contrast off. I think this is where people are getting tripped up.
 
So, I'm kinda shocked that nobody else seems to be having the issue where your PS4 Pro will constantly flash black? I can't be the only one. There's 14 pages of people having the same issue over on the PS forums.

Have tried everything to fix it and it looks like this TV will be going back. I've tried multiple HDMI cables, all the settings with auto on/off and it's still bipolar. Sometimes it won't happen for an hour and other times it'll happen 20 times in the hour.

http://community.us.playstation.com...hes-Black-Constantly-Samsung-4k/td-p/46036768
 
So, I'm kinda shocked that nobody else seems to be having the issue where your PS4 Pro will constantly flash black? I can't be the only one.

Several people have reported it here but it doesn't affect everyone. I've never had the problem myself but there are many variables involved. I go through a receiver, for instance.
 
Yeah there are definitely people in this thread that have had that issue. I had it when I first got my TV, but resolved it by changing the HDMI cable from a 6-footer to a 3.
 
Has anyone tried pairing bluetooth headphones with the TV?

I'm curious if there's any problems with audio latency when trying to watch Netflix, Plex, that kind of thing.
 
Has anyone tried pairing bluetooth headphones with the TV?

I'm curious if there's any problems with audio latency when trying to watch Netflix, Plex, that kind of thing.

I've paired a couple of cheap Chinese Bluetooth headsets. £12 from Amazon. Different brands but same model, if that makes sense.

Didn't spot any latency issues with Netflix on the TV's own app.
 
I've paired a couple of cheap Chinese Bluetooth headsets. £12 from Amazon. Different brands but same model, if that makes sense.

Didn't spot any latency issues with Netflix on the TV's own app.

Yeah, been thinking about going the cheap route and trying one of these wireless bluetooth receivers with my own headphones instead of springing for dedicated bluetooth ones:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9I0LSK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Apparently it supports the newer, higher quality bluetooth codecs with better latency (aptX/aptX-LL), but it's very unlikely that the TV transmits them.

Will probably give it a whirl.
 
So, I'm kinda shocked that nobody else seems to be having the issue where your PS4 Pro will constantly flash black? I can't be the only one. There's 14 pages of people having the same issue over on the PS forums.

Have tried everything to fix it and it looks like this TV will be going back. I've tried multiple HDMI cables, all the settings with auto on/off and it's still bipolar. Sometimes it won't happen for an hour and other times it'll happen 20 times in the hour.

http://community.us.playstation.com...hes-Black-Constantly-Samsung-4k/td-p/46036768

The only workaround that has fixed it for me is forcing YUV.
 
Quoting myself from the other thread:

So, uh... Idk if this has been posted here already, but here's what Samsung is bringing this year, the complete list:

content_tvsa4.jpg

content_tvsa5.jpg

content_tvsa3.jpg


Q is the high end, being the replacement of the KS line, MU7, 8 and 9 are the replacements of KU line, and MU6 are the entry models.

http://www.dday.it/redazione/22318/tv-samsung-2017
 
As someone who was convinced to buy a KS8000 from this thread, I always love seeing it pop up.

It's been one of my best tech purchases ever and I'm happy to know it's still poppin' off on this site!
 
As someone who was convinced to buy a KS8000 from this thread, I always love seeing it pop up.

It's been one of my best tech purchases ever and I'm happy to know it's still poppin' off on this site!

Yeah mine too! :D

I think it's second tho as the AC was absolutely the best thing ever for me (since in my bedroom, temperatures reach >90 in summer).
 
Huh, so I randomly noticed on the main screen of Uncharted 4 Multiplayer, if I have the picture mode set to movie and don't have game mode enabled, it actually blurs details in the mountain in the background and other areas on the screen, and when Game mode is on, those areas are clear. How does that make sense ? I'm seeing kind of blurry picture quality a lot actually and that's with sharpness even turned up. It's like textures that should be crisp have a slight vaseline over them. Is that supposed to be like that ? Using UC4 as an example again, in the story mode, stone that should look hard and clear often looks smooth and blurred and I don't know why that's a thing.

Oh, and is there a fix for flickering in motion that I think people called strobing ? I put on Vanishing of Ethan Carter on PS4 Pro and it looks terrible. Every time you move the camera, every tree and plant or bush has subtle flickers and it's really awful looking.
 
I posted about this possible issue on the previous page, but I didn't have photos at the time to demonstrate it. Basically, I noticed a tiny gap, maybe 1 or 2 mm, between the black screen and the silver frame on the left side. This gap is consistent all the way down the left side. On the right side, it's flush, so it's almost like the screen isn't seated correctly, or the frame was made ever-so-slightly too wide.

I'm curious -- anyone notice something similar on their TV? Is there any precedent for this? The screen isn't popping outward at all, so I don't think it's a glue issue like the back panel gets.

Left side gap: http://i.imgur.com/JtwB95t.jpg

Right side flush: http://i.imgur.com/yFXutOq.jpg
 
Anybody connect Bluetooth headphones to their TV? Does it support 5.1 or 7.1 passthrough from HDMI?
 
Huh, so I randomly noticed on the main screen of Uncharted 4 Multiplayer, if I have the picture mode set to movie and don't have game mode enabled, it actually blurs details in the mountain in the background and other areas on the screen, and when Game mode is on, those areas are clear. How does that make sense ? I'm seeing kind of blurry picture quality a lot actually and that's with sharpness even turned up. It's like textures that should be crisp have a slight vaseline over them. Is that supposed to be like that ? Using UC4 as an example again, in the story mode, stone that should look hard and clear often looks smooth and blurred and I don't know why that's a thing.

Oh, and is there a fix for flickering in motion that I think people called strobing ? I put on Vanishing of Ethan Carter on PS4 Pro and it looks terrible. Every time you move the camera, every tree and plant or bush has subtle flickers and it's really awful looking.


When game mode isn't enabled do you have Digital Clean View on? Don't think it works well with games. Turning the sharpness down might help the flickering, it will be more obvious on older games because antialiasing etc. Isn't as good.
 
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