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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Indeed, that's exactly what I've read. Also tested it a lot and sat a few inches from the screen to see if I noticed any loss, particularly in dark and light areas. Couldn't see any from a few inches away so sure as hell can't from 7-8ft back. Definitely get a little on non-HDR content, but I use it makes the picture much more vibrant, it's personal preference on this really.

When my TV first played HDR content, which was through Amazon Prime, the default values were 20 on backlight and medium on Dynamic Contrast.

Totally agree. I got downvoted to hell on reddit for even suggesting such a thing. But honestly, I blame how complicated setting up for HDR really is on 2016 models, which is leading to contrasting information from different outlets. I hope that changes in the future, but I digress.

When I first got the set, I left everything at stock settings, aside from turning on Game Mode, manually turning the backlight to 20 and turning on UHD Color under the input. Smart LED was already on High and Dynamic Contrast was on Medium. When I ran Infamous: First Light, it looked STUNNING. Dark, inky blacks, with no loss of details, and bright Neon highlights. I thought it looked great.

Then I went over Digital Foundry's settings in their YouTube video, adjusted Contrast to 90, Sharpening to 0, and turned off Dynamic Contrast. And it looked terrible. Fetch looked pitch black and had no detail in the shadows. The city looked like mud and was very dark. The neon highlights weren't impressive at all. The thought in my head was "I can't believe Digital Foundry recommended these settings, it looks awful...". I then conferred with the AVS guys in the huge thread over there, and all of them were like, yeah, Digital Foundry's settings for HDR content at least are wrong. Some level of Dynamic Contrast needs to be on, or else HDR will look too dark. That was the biggest change of all the settings I adjusted as per their recommendations.

It's probably no surprise then that half the people in this thread who even use HDR on this set say that it looks bad, or washed out, or that they prefer HDR to be off.
 
Dynamic Contrast on Medium, and I need to turn down in-game brightness for Horizon Zero Dawn down to 0, and it still doesn't match their indicator.

That can't be right.
 
I'm glad you guys are having this discussion as I'm always looking to fiddle with my settings.

And like above I want to be making Horizon Zero Dawn as perfect as possible.
 
Totally agree. I got downvoted to hell on reddit for even suggesting such a thing. But honestly, I blame how complicated setting up for HDR really is on 2016 models, which is leading to contrasting information from different outlets. I hope that changes in the future, but I digress.

When I first got the set, I left everything at stock settings, aside from turning on Game Mode, manually turning the backlight to 20 and turning on UHD Color under the input. Smart LED was already on High and Dynamic Contrast was on Medium. When I ran Infamous: First Light, it looked STUNNING. Dark, inky blacks, with no loss of details, and bright Neon highlights. I thought it looked great.

Then I went over Digital Foundry's settings in their YouTube video, adjusted Contrast to 90, Sharpening to 0, and turned off Dynamic Contrast. And it looked terrible. Fetch looked pitch black and had no detail in the shadows. The city looked like mud and was very dark. The neon highlights weren't impressive at all. The thought in my head was "I can't believe Digital Foundry recommended these settings, it looks awful...". I then conferred with the AVS guys in the huge thread over there, and all of them were like, yeah, Digital Foundry's settings for HDR content at least are wrong. Some level of Dynamic Contrast needs to be on, or else HDR will look too dark. That was the biggest change of all the settings I adjusted as per their recommendations.

It's probably no surprise then that half the people in this thread who even use HDR on this set say that it looks bad, or washed out, or that they prefer HDR to be off.

Interesting.

I'll defiantly do some testing tonight then, since so many articles and settings guides say to have it turned off I never even thought to try it out, i just assumed it was 'wrong' to have it on.
 
every site suggests base settings and they look so bad to me, on both my tvs. I always enable dynamic contrast and turn up color and lower the backlight and black levels to the point where they dontcrush the details. And yes, i do get the wow effect in certain games atleast
 
I came straight from a Panasonic Plasma, which obviously has low response times, so I noticed it slightly to begin with, but now I've just got used to it and don't notice at all.

Thanks. I'm still coming from another LED TV so obsviously not as big of a difference but I feel that, for gaming with consoles and games that are 30fps, extremely low response time is a bit jarring and makes you notice low framerate more (just as it does on my gaming monitor for PC) so I'm fine with higher response time as long as it doesn't degrade motion quality too much.
 
It's honestly terribly frustrating, there's a lot of both good and bad information out there. As another example, Rtings says to leave Color Space on Native for HDR content, which is another thing multiple people on AVS Forums have shot down. Color Space needs to be on Auto for HDR content. So *shrug*, it's all terribly confusing. I'm no videophile at all, but I've tried multiple settings and groups of settings, and I use what looks best to me without crushing any details.

A test everyone can do to at least confirm that Dynamic Contrast works very differently in HDR content is to compare what it does to the picture while viewing SDR content. With SDR content, a higher Dynamic Contrast setting will often darken the image, while with HDR content, a higher Dynamic Contrast setting will brighten the image.
 
I'm pretty sure that Dynamic Contrast setting for HDR is about as misleading as the sharpness setting for some people. It may look better, but it's clearly wrong.

That is especially evident in the first section of Horizon which takes place in a cave. Dynamic Contrast set to medium looks like daylight in there.
 
Try turning the Dynamic Contrast up to at least medium for HDR to get a brighter picture, at least do it to see if you prefer it. Loads of people complain about a dull washed out HDR pic but have Dynamic Contrast on off, it's supposed to be turned on for HDR.

Dynamic contrast isn't supposed to be on for HDR, as long as you have backlight on 20, smart LED set to high and colour space on auto then you are getting a correct HDR picture, dynamic contrast will just process away details.

Not true. As confirmed by the videophiles and professional calibrators on AVS Forums, Dynamic Contrast works very differently if you're in HDR mode vs SDR mode. In HDR, it should be set to Low or Medium, or else the HDR picture will be too dark.

Indeed, that's exactly what I've read. Also tested it a lot and sat a few inches from the screen to see if I noticed any loss, particularly in dark and light areas. Couldn't see any from a few inches away so sure as hell can't from 7-8ft back. Definitely get a little on non-HDR content, but I use it makes the picture much more vibrant, it's personal preference on this really. Recommended settings are a good starting point but shouldn't be followed rigidly, each individual panel can vary slightly, room conditions can vary, and of course personal preference.

When my TV first played HDR content, which was through Amazon Prime, the default values were 20 on backlight and medium on Dynamic Contrast.

Totally agree. I got downvoted to hell on reddit for even suggesting such a thing. But honestly, I blame how complicated setting up for HDR really is on 2016 models, which is leading to contrasting information from different outlets. I hope that changes in the future, but I digress.

When I first got the set, I left everything at stock settings, aside from turning on Game Mode, manually turning the backlight to 20 and turning on UHD Color under the input. Smart LED was already on High and Dynamic Contrast was on Medium. When I ran Infamous: First Light, it looked STUNNING. Dark, inky blacks, with no loss of details, and bright Neon highlights. I thought it looked great.

Then I went over Digital Foundry's settings in their YouTube video, adjusted Contrast to 90, Sharpening to 0, and turned off Dynamic Contrast. And it looked terrible. Fetch looked pitch black and had no detail in the shadows. The city looked like mud and was very dark. The neon highlights weren't impressive at all. The thought in my head was "I can't believe Digital Foundry recommended these settings, it looks awful...". I then conferred with the AVS guys in the huge thread over there, and all of them were like, yeah, Digital Foundry's settings for HDR content at least are wrong. Some level of Dynamic Contrast needs to be on, or else HDR will look too dark. That was the biggest change of all the settings I adjusted as per their recommendations.

It's probably no surprise then that half the people in this thread who even use HDR on this set say that it looks bad, or washed out, or that they prefer HDR to be off.

Interesting.

I'll defiantly do some testing tonight then, since so many articles and settings guides say to have it turned off I never even thought to try it out, i just assumed it was 'wrong' to have it on.

So I want to hear everyone's thoughts on this.. I've found that in HDR, my Brightness needs to be lowered drastically to be at the "correct" brightness level. I usually have my Brightness set to 45 but I have to set it to ~38 or lower in HDR mode.

There isn't any proper HDR calibration disc out there unfortunately, but the way I've discovered this is by opening up several HDR games (Uncharted 4, The Last of Us, Horizon, Elder Scrolls Online, etc..), switching to HDR mode in the game, and then going to the brightness slider that many of these games have, where it says "Adjust brightness until you can barely see the black square", or something along those lines. DON'T ADJUST THE BRIGHTNESS SLIDER IN GAME. Leave it at 50/default. Instead, open up your KS8000 menu and adjust your Brightness slider there. Each and every time in every game I've tried, I need to take brightness down to 38 or so. As soon as I switch HDR off in the game, the black square disappears and I need to bring the brightness back up to 45 again for it to reappear.

Lowering brightness down to 38, upping my backlight to 20, leaving color space on auto, leaving smart LED to full, and turning dynamic contrast to medium leaves me with a breathtaking picture that is both appropriately dark and brooding in caves and dark rooms but amazingly bright in sunlight and daytime scenes. It looks awesome.

Just sharing this with everyone, as I've always had my brightness set to 45 in HDR until about a week ago, and I think lowering the brightness has made a substantial difference for me in black levels, contrast, and just picture quality in general.
 
Shit I never thought about turning dynamic contrast on for HDR games since every site out there says the opposite. So is Digital Foundry wrong?

Gotta agree about Infamous though, it looked awful when I first tried it with HDR(with dynamic contrast off), everything was so dark during the day and the character had basically no details, just a dark shadow in some cases..... So would dynamic contrast help in this case?
 
Lowering brightness down to 38, upping my backlight to 20, leaving color space on auto, leaving smart LED to full, and turning dynamic contrast to medium leaves me with a breathtaking picture that is both appropriately dark and brooding in caves and dark rooms but amazingly bright in sunlight and daytime scenes. It looks awesome

What is your contrast set to? 85?
 
Shit I never thought about turning dynamic contrast on for HDR games since every site out there says the opposite. So is Digital Foundry wrong?

Gotta agree about Infamous though, it looked awful when I first tried it with HDR(with dynamic contrast off), everything was so dark during the day and the character had basically no details, just a dark shadow in some cases..... So would dynamic contrast help in this case?

It should look awesome on this TV. Dynamic Contrast should help with the brightness yes, I find Medium is best in most cases on HDR. Also check the in game brightness, I had to turn mine up a bit on Infamous. The lights and explosions etc. on this game mean it's very well suited to HDR.
 
I just checked on my phone and it still says 1167 for me. Try refreshing your browser, or maybe its IP based if you're not in the US. Not sure why you aren't seeing it.



Only Samsung knows. They don't push every release to the sets immediately or at all. Its been theorized that people willing to update via USB are more savvy so maybe they release minor fixes USB only that only AV nerds care about or maybe they are afraid of something in the update that might cause issues so they want to see if the more savvy owners complain before they roll it out to everyone. Samsung doesn't provide meaningful update notes so we don't even know what the updates do.



Probably. This set has a VA panel so it has good contrast but poor viewing angles. Moving your head or body to one side or the other will cause the opposite section of the screen to wash out somewhat. The more off center you are, the worse it gets. Being off center also makes flash lighting and other uniformity issues more apparent. This is true for the vertical viewing angle as well.

Thanks, it was really bothering me, just moving my position on my couch made me notice it. I don't think my wife even notices but I'm looking for imperfections. Good to know its normal so I can stop worrying about it.
 
The OP has the most agreed upon settings, plus links to rtings etc... which all recommend similar settings.

Cool, thanks - I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss a major magical post in this middle of this thread where somebody somehow cracked THE perfect settings formula for the PS4.
 
So just had a play around with dynamic constrast on Horizon and for me I definitely prefer it off, turning it on just makes everything overly bright and washes out some of the details of the sky and clouds.
 
every site suggests base settings and they look so bad to me, on both my tvs. I always enable dynamic contrast and turn up color and lower the backlight and black levels to the point where they dontcrush the details. And yes, i do get the wow effect in certain games atleast

Are you maybe confusing the HDR and non-HDR settings?
 
Thanks. I'm still coming from another LED TV so obsviously not as big of a difference but I feel that, for gaming with consoles and games that are 30fps, extremely low response time is a bit jarring and makes you notice low framerate more (just as it does on my gaming monitor for PC) so I'm fine with higher response time as long as it doesn't degrade motion quality too much.

One thing you need to know about the Samsung compared to your Sony is that the Samsung uses a "pulsing" PWM backlight whereas the Sony uses a steady backlight. I'm not sure what your other sets or monitors used. Basically, what this means is that the Sony LEDs remain on constantly, whereas on the Samsung the LEDs always pulse off and on very rapidly. The brighter the backlight setting, the longer the "on" periods are and the shorter the "off" periods are. The effects of this are that on the Sony images will "smear" more but motion will be smooth. On the other hand, motion on the Samsung will be sharper and clearer, but you may notice flicker and double-images, especially with low framerate content. Some people are sensitive to flicker and some aren't. I'm happy with my KS8000 but this is something I had to get used to coming from an SXRD. It doesn't bother me any more.

If you'd like to see more on this, including some nice illustrations, check out this link on RTINGs and scroll down to the section on PWM dimming frequency.

Thanks, it was really bothering me, just moving my position on my couch made me notice it. I don't think my wife even notices but I'm looking for imperfections. Good to know its normal so I can stop worrying about it.

Yeah, it's just part of the tech. You could look for a LCD with an IPS panel that would have better viewing angles but the black levels and PQ won't be as good. You could also get an OLED which doesn't suffer from this problem at all but of course you'd be spending double the money.
 
One thing you need to know about the Samsung compared to your Sony is that the Samsung uses a "pulsing" PWM backlight whereas the Sony uses a steady backlight. I'm not sure what your other sets or monitors used. Basically, what this means is that the Sony LEDs remain on constantly, whereas on the Samsung the LEDs always pulse off and on very rapidly. The brighter the backlight setting, the longer the "on" periods are and the shorter the "off" periods are. The effects of this are that on the Sony images will "smear" more but motion will be smooth. On the other hand, motion on the Samsung will be sharper and clearer, but you may notice flicker and double-images, especially with low framerate content. Some people are sensitive to flicker and some aren't. I'm happy with my KS8000 but this is something I had to get used to coming from an SXRD. It doesn't bother me any more.

If you'd like to see more on this, including some nice illustrations, check out this link on RTINGs and scroll down to the section on PWM dimming frequency.



Yeah, it's just part of the tech. You could look for a LCD with an IPS panel that would have better viewing angles but the black levels and PQ won't be as good. You could also get an OLED which doesn't suffer from this problem at all but of course you'd be spending double the money.

Yeah I though about an OLED but got my KS8000 for a ridiculously good price, so I'll be staying here for a number of years. At least until 8k becomes the standard lol.
 
There isn't any proper HDR calibration disc out there unfortunately,

There is one, actually. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2463698-r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns.html

I've used it to set up HDR and it looks good but the whole thing is still confusing. When I disable HDR from PS4's system menu but leave TV settings the same, Ratchet and Clank does not look much different, to be honest.

I also wonder if there are some models that react differently. For me, I have to use Dynamic Contrast on HDR, otherwise, the image is too darn dark. Even in SDR my backlight is at 13, making me wonder if my TV is faulty.

One thing I am considering is taking some photos with DSLR on manual exposure. This would at least allow comparing brightness against other sets if we all settle on the same camera settings.
 
There is one, actually. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2463698-r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns.html

I've used it to set up HDR and it looks good but the whole thing is still confusing. When I disable HDR from PS4's system menu but leave TV settings the same, Ratchet and Clank does not look much different, to be honest.

I also wonder if there are some models that react differently. For me, I have to use Dynamic Contrast on HDR, otherwise, the image is too darn dark. Even in SDR my backlight is at 13, making me wonder if my TV is faulty.

One thing I am considering is taking some photos with DSLR on manual exposure. This would at least allow comparing brightness against other sets if we all settle on the same camera settings.

Well the difference isn't that obvious to begin with. What you get is a wider range of colour for more detailed or accurate color representation. Turning on dynamic contrast artificially increases the amount of colour, and for me, having it on Medium in HZD looks like a cartoon. Dynamic contrast off looks much more natural.
 
Hoping someone here can give me some quick advice.

Just got KS8000. Overlooked that it is only optical out for audio. My speakers are analog. What DAC do I snag do that I am not restricted to PCM only? One that decodes dolby digital/dts to analog?

I've been browsing Amazon and there are quite a few options... anyone in a similar scenario and have one to suggest?
 
I got a 'Mocha JY-M2' decoder off of eBay some time ago. Works great with getting optical audio from Mac to Creative/Logitech 5.1 sets and should work with your setup as well.

I've got one to sell if you're interested. PM me.
 
There is one, actually. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2463698-r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns.html

I've used it to set up HDR and it looks good but the whole thing is still confusing. When I disable HDR from PS4's system menu but leave TV settings the same, Ratchet and Clank does not look much different, to be honest.

I also wonder if there are some models that react differently. For me, I have to use Dynamic Contrast on HDR, otherwise, the image is too darn dark. Even in SDR my backlight is at 13, making me wonder if my TV is faulty.

One thing I am considering is taking some photos with DSLR on manual exposure. This would at least allow comparing brightness against other sets if we all settle on the same camera settings.

May I ask what settings you ended up going with?
 
The amount of fiddling required to get the correct HDR settings (especially considering they don't save in game mode) doesn't seem worth it given the seemingly minor graphical improvements in the games that support it.

Still like the TV's overall PQ but I plan on just leaving HDR off until it's hopefully mandatory next console gen.
 
I see this TV is on sale at Best Buy today and I also see on the first page of the thread there was an issue with the settings not sticking in game mode. I am older and have limited time so I cannot comb through a 100+ pages, so perhaps some kind soul will confirm they fixed that issue and settings stick when using Game Mode and HDR? I think I finally am going to make the plunge to HDR. I think.
TIA,
DL
 
The amount of fiddling required to get the correct HDR settings (especially considering they don't save in game mode) doesn't seem worth it given the seemingly minor graphical improvements in the games that support it.

Still like the TV's overall PQ but I plan on just leaving HDR off until it's hopefully mandatory next console gen.

Understandable. HDR TVs are still new technology and the industry hasn't even settled on a single format for it yet. I'm sure devs and TVs will get used to it and it will become easier but for now it's still very much a enthusiast/tinkerer's feature. This is not something you can "set it and forget it" so people who don't like fiddling with their TV settings should probably steer clear for now. I think we'll get there eventually, though.

perhaps some kind soul will confirm they fixed that issue and settings stick when using Game Mode and HDR?

No, they haven't. You have to adjust the backlight every time you switch between HDR and non-HDR in Game mode.
 
Shit I never thought about turning dynamic contrast on for HDR games since every site out there says the opposite. So is Digital Foundry wrong?

Gotta agree about Infamous though, it looked awful when I first tried it with HDR(with dynamic contrast off), everything was so dark during the day and the character had basically no details, just a dark shadow in some cases..... So would dynamic contrast help in this case?

Pretty sure the HDR patch in Infamous was botched. It looked awful under just about every setting.

And I'm still in the camp that thinks Dynamic Contrast should be set to Off. Watch a 4K HDR Blu-Ray with DC on and it clearly looks way off.
 
I see this TV is on sale at Best Buy today and I also see on the first page of the thread there was an issue with the settings not sticking in game mode. I am older and have limited time so I cannot comb through a 100+ pages, so perhaps some kind soul will confirm they fixed that issue and settings stick when using Game Mode and HDR? I think I finally am going to make the plunge to HDR. I think.
TIA,
DL

No it hasn't been fixed, and probably never will be at this point. How ever, even with this issue, this TV is still the consensus best for its price range.
 
People think dynamic contrast should be on bc they play some games with hdr not implemented the best bc it's a new tech. It's not a shock people like brightness.

AVS Forums my ass cheek. I have yet to see one person post some sort of evidence other than he said she said.
 
Any reason you need a new one?

A month ago, I bought a Denon x1300w (which I believe has most of the new stuff one needs like 4k/hdr support, dolby atmos, dts:x, etc) from Frys using their promo codes to bring it down to $299, free shipping and no tax. I just tried today's code on it and it sort of still seems to work, bringing it down to $319. I do not see any shipping option anymore though.

My Yamaha RX-V673 is from 2012. It has 1080p/4K30 pass through and no HDR support.
 
Did some more testing tonight and yes, Dynamic Contrast for HDR content is a no-no. It actually decreases the effect of the wide color gamut by brightening dark areas and darkening lighter areas (it even says so in the description). That's literally what you don't want to achieve.
 
Did some more testing tonight and yes, Dynamic Contrast for HDR content is a no-no. It actually decreases the effect of the wide color gamut by brightening dark areas and darkening lighter areas (it even says so in the description). That's literally what you don't want to achieve.

Not to my eyes. To me it looks nearer to a hdr photo if I have it on, if I turn it off it just looks dark.

You don't have it in HDR+ mode do you? It does something similar what you describe in that.
 
Not to my eyes. To me it looks nearer to a hdr photo if I have it on, if I turn it off it just looks dark.

You don't have it in HDR+ mode do you? It does something similar what you describe in that.

Nope.

Backlight 20
Brightness 45
Contrast 100
Smart LED on High
Dynamic Contrast Off

That's what I settled on with HDR input for now.
 
Did some more testing tonight and yes, Dynamic Contrast for HDR content is a no-no. It actually decreases the effect of the wide color gamut by brightening dark areas and darkening lighter areas (it even says so in the description). That's literally what you don't want to achieve.

Exactly.
 
Same for me. It just too dark to be correct. What's your panel model?

I have the European KS9000, which I think is the same as the US KS9500. A lot of forums seem to recommend turning dynamic contrast on else the picture will be too dark. Horizon Zero Dawn looks stunning with it on medium so I'm happy.
 
I have the European KS9000, which I think is the same as the US KS9500. A lot of forums seem to recommend turning dynamic contrast on else the picture will be too dark. Horizon Zero Dawn looks stunning with it on medium so I'm happy.

What I meant is that if you look at the back of the TV, there should be a panel number. Mine is AA02 and I wonder if some panels are just darker than others. That would explain why people are recommending different settings.
 
Did some more testing tonight and yes, Dynamic Contrast for HDR content is a no-no. It actually decreases the effect of the wide color gamut by brightening dark areas and darkening lighter areas (it even says so in the description). That's literally what you don't want to achieve.

Dynamic contrast increases the range, hence why it's at it's brightest when you set it to high, that's what it's for. Read the description carefully, it doesn't actually say what you're saying it says, it just says it adjusts it.
 
What I meant is that if you look at the back of the TV, there should be a panel number. Mine is AA02 and I wonder if some panels are just darker than others. That would explain why people are recommending different settings.

Okay, will need to check that when I get a chance. May also post a couple of pics to show the difference I get.
 
I have the European KS9000, which I think is the same as the US KS9500. A lot of forums seem to recommend turning dynamic contrast on else the picture will be too dark. Horizon Zero Dawn looks stunning with it on medium so I'm happy.

I agree with you, it looks stunning. The thing is, it's not HDR-like stunning. I remember two areas from early quests (starting cave and
the place you wake up in after the trial
) with only a few light sources (e.g. candles in that spoilered section above). When I set Dynamic Contrast to Medium, the candles were shown as bright as before, but the whole environment was now daylight-bright as well. Which means you end up with a bright picture, but actually lowers the actual HDR effect with very bright light sources like the sun, or spotlights, or candles in contrast to dark areas.
 
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