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Some thoughts on living in Los Angeles

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Chiggs

Member
zCia6HO.jpg


I posted this thread in October of 2014 after a successful interview for a management position I would eventually land. Roughly 2 months later I found myself living in big, bad Los Angeles.

After about a year and a half of living here, I wanted to share my thoughts on one of the world’s most important cities (like it or not).

Housing:
It’s as bad as you’ve heard. Not NYC or SF bad, but still bad nonetheless. I pay $1800 a month for a 500 square foot studio apartment. Granted, I’m about a mile from the beach in cozy El Segundo…but this is actually considered a value. And it’s not like I’m living in luxury.

I should also mention that many apartments in this city don’t include the basics that renters are used to:

• Refrigerators
• Dishwashers
• Central AC

My first week here I found myself shelling out money for a refrigerator and portable air conditioning unit. Coming from Denver, I wasn’t reeling from the cost of an apartment in Los Angeles, as much as I was reeling from how little you actually get in Los Angeles.

Also, your overall happiness in this city might just be linked to how close you are to your place of work, which leads me to my next topic….

Traffic:
Also as bad as advertised. I distinctly remember leaving my apartment at 2am in the morning to capture some shots of an illuminated downtown LA skyline, only to be caught in a traffic jam on the 110 that lasted for 45 minutes.

I've also found that, like how Gotham manufactures villains to suit Batman, LA will manufacture traffic just for you. Driving around late at night with no other cars around? Freeway closure. Take a detour. Freeways all clear? Lane closure. No lanes closed? A cop will show up and slow everyone down with his serpentine driving move.
Probably one of the most astute points ever made about Los Angeles traffic…it’s just baffling. I feel like you have to throw yourself at the mercy of the LA traffic gods and only once do you admit to them that you are an insignificant little nothing, they allow you to get somewhere within 3 hours.

Also, the size of the city is absolutely intimidating. I once drove from the northern edge of the San Fernando Valley all the way down to Orange County and Huntington Beach and I will just never forget how long that took. It was 100 miles of city. The scale of this thing is still something I can’t wrap my head around.

People:
I was very naïve on this front. Initially, I was stunned by how nice the people in the South Bay area were and incorrectly assumed that everyone north of Imperial would be equally nice.

Big mistake.

Honestly, LA’s west side might be home to some of the biggest assholes in the world. A special tip of the hat to Santa Monica, where the “not really rich, but kinda rich” display some of the worst human behavior I’ve ever witnessed. I’d like to officially crown it Pretentious & Mean-Spirited Asshole Capitol of the United States. Make no mistake, these jerks are far worse than any of the detached millionaires and billionaires living in Beverly Hills, Bel Air, Calabasas and Pacific Palisades.

On a similarly depressing note, I’ve found that making friends—not acquaintances—is very tough. The folks you meet in this city are constantly trying to get an angle on you to determine how you can help them meet their goals. One of my co-workers confessed to me that it took her 5 years to make a handful of decent friends. To me, that’s pretty daunting, and you can imagine how trying it can be to find a meaningful relationship out here. I feel like running background checks on potential partners isn’t paranoid, but necessary.

Culturally, the city is incredible. I spent a lot of my life in Colorado, a wonderful state, but also a very white one. Los Angeles has really opened my eyes to a lot of cultural richness that you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else. I’m also rather amazed to see so many different people from so many walks of life all converging in this metropolis. And with that convergence comes all of the expected benefits. My favorites? Food and music. Few cities can match Los Angeles on this front.

Things to do:
Where do I even start? There is so much to do in this city. Someone told me (or I read it somewhere) that Los Angeles is a city of secrets. While I’m certainly not a LA veteran, I have also found this to be true. Be it obscure restaurants in non-descript strip malls or winding staircases that take you to parts of the city that you never even knew existed, or could be accessed, Los Angeles begs to be explored.

Places I’ve enjoyed:
• The Getty
• Dodger Stadium
• The Bradbury Building
• Griffith Park
• Santa Monica Pier
• Culver City
• Sunset Boulevard
• Manhattan Beach
• City Hall
• Mullholland Drive
• Koreatown
• Chinatown

And that’s just factoring places within the city. Outside of city limits, you have incredible places in the San Gabriel Mountains, coastal gems like Malibu, and the jaw-dropping beauty of Joshua Tree and The Salton Sea…although the latter is definitely something of an acquired taste.

Overall:
I feel like I’m finally starting to fit in around here. I’ve gone from awkward outsider to somewhat awkward denizen. But that’s also a part of LA’s charm: it’s one of a handful of cities on this planet where you can easily find a niche or carve one out for yourself. When it comes to the individual, I’m really struggling to think of a city that caters more to that approach than Los Angeles.

In some ways I wish I would have moved out here ten years ago. I’m in my mid-thirties now and I can only imagine the fun I would have had in my twenties. Does that mean I’ll stay here long-term? Who knows…but there is a special sort of charm to this place. The city is a very hard to describe amalgamation of art, commerce and eccentricity. I just know that it’s fascinating.

4k Time Lapses:
https://youtu.be/CNw0EgVKZro
https://youtu.be/QKx_mB3GC5I
 

studyguy

Member
Eh Santa Monica at the very least is a tourist trap for the most part. If you're going there, you're not really getting an idea of CA, but rather the people who visit CA.

And the freeways, just Waze it up, hope for the best. There's nothing to do but pray to the freeway gods, I have an idol dedicated to the 405 myself. Never try and get somewhere during rush hour though that requires long travel on the freeway, you'd have better luck running places.

And yeah, living in CA all your life and venturing into other states is a trip to see just how white the country as a whole is compared to LA.

Also how far have you ventured around CA, OP? Taken any trips up north yet?
 

Extollere

Sucks at poetry
Lived there for 5 years. I really loved it, and I had a far better experience than I thought I would. It's an expensive and crowded city, but somehow I never felt stressed out living there despite it all. The city has a lot of life and culture.. and my god, the food. I can't really speak for the west side of the city, but most of the people I met on the east side were really humble and friendly. A lot of actors, writers, musicians, and artist-types just trying to make something positive for themselves like everyone else.
 

Eidan

Member
I remember when I first visited a friend of mine who lived in LA, I was stunned to see that she was living in a quaint dump in Koreatown that didn't even provide a fridge. I didn't even know stuff like that happened in the US anymore. And her rent was comparable to what I was paying in the DC surrounding suburbs at the time.
 

rokkerkory

Member
If u really want to live in LA, id recommend the surrounding cities more. Too much of LA is just terrible. Dirty, polluted, peeps are asses and prices are nuts.
 

olympia

Member
cool thread op. I got into art center so i'm gonna be moving there soon, hopefully in pasadena. my friends live in a 3br/2ba in alhambra/south pasadena for about 1450
 

NawidA

Banned
East LA is where it's at. Less of those problems (but also not as close to a lot of the things you liked). Considering a move there.
 

ATF487

Member
I want to spend more time in LA, I got the impression when I visited there that:

1) There is an unbelievable amount of shit to do in the area
and
2) That it is laid out in a way that is absolutely infuriating and the antithesis of what I want a city to be like

edit: my company has an office in el segundo, would be cool to do a 2 year rotation there...
 

bounchfx

Member
I'm moving down to the OC tomorrow. I lived there in 2013 too, and man, I do not want to go back. It's not bad, and I understand the appeal for some, but holy fuck not only is it expensive, but everything is so spread out. blah.
 

NoRéN

Member
Come hang out with me in East L.A. I'm nice! But, the area is not.

Taco stands everywhere though! :)

Seriously though, great write up.
 

Chiggs

Member
NoRéN;208416132 said:
Come hang out with me in East L.A. I'm nice! But, the area is not.

Taco stands everywhere though! :)

Seriously though, great write up.

East LA still gets a bad wrap. Some of it is warranted, but the area has some really interesting posts. Housing costs seem somewhat reasonable too.
 

Tagyhag

Member
How'd you like the San Fernando Valley? We're not much to look at but I love it here. Close enough to the city for everything but far enough that we're not poisoned by it.

I'd recommend getting a place here if you ever wanted to move from downtown.
 

Kevtones

Member
I've lived in LA proper for about two years too. I'll post in this thread with my thoughts later...



Also, east side is better. Come live in Eagle Rock.


I'm paying $1,625 for a 1,050 ft. 1.5 bedroom spot in a building built in 1926. Not only is it an incredible unit in a small building, but the location is prime and the area is awesome. Yeah the beach is a bit of a drive but this area is close to most everything.


12 foot ceilings, a courtyard, parking, paid utilities, incredible landlord, a bunch of artists/writers as neighbors…


EAST SIDE YO
 

Cromwell

Banned
Great write up OP. I live in San Diego and have gone up there many, many times for freelance photography/cinematography work. Been to every place you mentioned on the things to do list besides Joshua Tree. You basically summed it up, though my feelings on it are that the people, traffic, and summer heat are so bad that I'd never personally live there unless I landed some amazing job or something. It would be best for the type of work I do to live there than almost anywhere else in the country, but I dislike the area so much that I'd rather tweak my career path in order to live in a place like Seattle (which I've wanted to do for years now).

What you said about the people is especially true. Everyone wants something, or some angle. I've been at several parties or bars full of wannabe actors and most of them basically stop talking to you once they find out you don't know anyone famous, aren't rich, or aren't a writer/director of some kind.
 

Rayven

aka surume
Culver's a nice spot at the moment. Central enough to talk surface streets, but still close to the beach.

LA is a slow burn which I strongly disliked at first, but it's really grown on me over the decade I've been here. Lots of creative folks and opportunity, multi-cultural, and a good food city though you have to drive for it.

Most of the assholes in Santa Monica are tourists btw.
 
Couple of quick houghts.

Until I moved recently into a super cheap spot I found I was paying 1500 for a 750sqft 1br in los feliz. Pricing varies here and that neighborhood is on the more expensive side. It had a lot of emenities too. You may want to do a better job of apartment hunting.

Also as someone from NY I have to say people out here are far more pleseant and patient in appearance but on the whole people can be just as nice and shitty as anywhere else.

Also fuck the west side.
 
Wow OP is getting fucked compared to you lmao

Depends. Los Feliz is a nice area, but if OP works on the west side then it makes no sense. Like the OP said, a large part of your happiness in L.A. can depend on your commuting distance, cuz traffic is pure hell.
 

Ashby

Member
Depends. Los Feliz is a nice area, but if OP works on the west side then it makes no sense. Like the OP said, a large part of your happiness in L.A. can depend on your commuting distance, cuz traffic is pure hell.

Yeah, true. It's easy to forget about LA's sprawl as an East Coaster.
 

Palocca

Member
Depends. Los Feliz is a nice area, but if OP works on the west side then it makes no sense. Like the OP said, a large part of your happiness in L.A. depends on your commuting distance, cuz traffic is pure hell.

Ding ding ding. My work commute is about an hour each way and I feel myself slowly dying inside.

Today, it took me about 2 and a half hours from the valley to the beach in Malibu. The traffic here is just straight up awful.

That said, I've lived in LA all my life and I love it, warts and all.
 

GamerJM

Banned
Honestly, the OP makes it sound terrible outside of the variety of places to go to and diversity of people (both of which are good but not worth everything you listed as a dislike to me).
 
I've been there a few times, and it's high paced and definitely intimidating. The traffic is nuts, as are some of the drivers.

Most of the people I met were pretty nice, though.

It's definitely dirty looking in comparison to the only other major city I've been to (Toronto).
 
I always find it funny when tourist or transplants complain about Los Angeles.

Here's a secret, avoid the west half of the city. The western half is not a good place to live. Tourist and transplants always end up there though.

Eagle Rock, Highland Park, Echo Park, Silverlake, Frog Town, Glassel Park, Los Feliz, Atwater Village, Glendale, La Crescents, etc... even a decent amount of the valley.

These are fantastic places to live. Everywhere else is just a major pain in the ass

cool thread op. I got into art center so i'm gonna be moving there soon, hopefully in pasadena. my friends live in a 3br/2ba in alhambra/south pasadena for about 1450
What are you majoring in? Undergrad or grad? I'm starting in the fall.
 

Chiggs

Member
How'd you like the San Fernando Valley? We're not much to look at but I love it here. Close enough to the city for everything but far enough that we're not poisoned by it.

Seemed like a decent area to me, actually. It gets a lot of hate because of how hot it can get. At least ten degrees hotter than other areas on any given day. I like Studio City.
 

Cromwell

Banned
I always find it funny when tourist or transplants complain about Los Angeles.

Here's a secret, avoid the west half of the city. The western half is not a good place to live. Tourist and transplants always end up there though.

A lot of people trying to work in the film industry basically have to live in West LA unless they want a ridiculous commute every day. Also, Silver Lake and some of the other places you mentioned are stupid expensive.
 

golem

Member
I always find it funny when tourist or transplants complain about Los Angeles.

Here's a secret, avoid the west half of the city. The western half is not a good place to live. Tourist and transplants always end up there though.

Eagle Rock, Highland Park, Echo Park, Silverlake, Frog Town, Glassel Park, Los Feliz, Atwater Village, Glendale, La Crescents, etc... even a decent amount of the valley.

These are fantastic places to live. Everywhere else is just a major pain in the ass
I should be mad that you just gave away the secret of LA but no one from outside world would ever believe you lol. Just at the poster above!
 

Chiggs

Member
Almost forgot to post this--lived up to all its hype, in my opinion. The sandwiches, the 10 cent cups of coffee, the wood shavings on the floor...really quite a place. Very close to Union Station (which is also worth checking out).

FGTMsG7.jpg
 
Eagle Rock, Highland Park, Echo Park, Silverlake, Frog Town, Glassel Park, Atwater Village, Glendale, La Crescents, etc... even a decent amount of the valley

I disagree. A lot of the transplants are on the east side(silverlake, echo park, and now highland park). Gentrification is happening over there and home prices are definitely going up.


Places like brentwood, culver city(full disclosure I own property here), and santa monica are home to a lot of natives I have found. They have lived in LA their whole lives and own property. Yes I have worked retail many moons ago, and they do tend to act entitled but, the same can be said for most of everybody these days. Calling them assholes is a bit of a stretch imo. The worst situations I have ever been are when I lived downtown. Poeople on this side are kinda.... subdued and lame. I could write a book tbh.

I guess everyone's experience is subjective.
 
A lot of people trying to work in the film industry basically have to live in West LA unless they want a ridiculous commute every day. Also, Silver Lake and some of the other places you mentioned are stupid expensive.
Commuting is part of living in Los Angeles , you gotta find the right balance between actually liking where you live, and how much you're willing to commute.

My girlfriend works in Culver City, does she hate driving an hour to work? Yes, but she's happy to do it if it means living in Atwater Village though.

I have a few friends that work in Art Department, none of them would ever consider working on the west side. They all live in Eagle Rock or Highland Park, and love their neighborhoods to death. Does the commute suck? Yes. Does it suck more than living on the west side? Hell no. Not even close.

As for how expensive it is, it's all expensive now. If you don't have mortgage, you're a sitting duck. On that note, : )
 
I always find it funny when tourist or transplants complain about Los Angeles.

Here's a secret, avoid the west half of the city. The western half is not a good place to live. Tourist and transplants always end up there though.

Eagle Rock, Highland Park, Echo Park, Silverlake, Frog Town, Glassel Park, Los Feliz, Atwater Village, Glendale, La Crescents, etc... even a decent amount of the valley.

What year is this? These places have been run over the last 10 years by transplants.
 
$1800 for a studio? Fucking hell

Also, where did you live that central AC and dishwashers were the norm? That's not the norm at all in major cities. Refrigerator is a little weird but I've seen some places not have one.
 
What year is this? These places have been run over the last 10 years by transplants.

Yes, there's a bunch of transplants on the east side, but it's nowhere near as bad, not even comparable to the west side. The west side is just a massive shit show. It's like a massive breast implant. I hate it.

Only place I like on the west side is Mar Vista.
 
A lot of people trying to work in the film industry basically have to live in West LA unless they want a ridiculous commute every day. Also, Silver Lake and some of the other places you mentioned are stupid expensive.

As someone looking to work in television, this is disappointing.

San Gabriel Valley/Pomona Valley local here.
 
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