Panasonic VIERA TC-P50GT25. The options aren't massive, probably more in line with your ST30.
I can post the settings tonight if you'd like (although all rooms are slightly different). Just let me know and I'll give it a shot.
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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED
- Thread starter BumRush
- Start date
Panasonic VIERA TC-P50GT25. The options aren't massive, probably more in line with your ST30.
I can post the settings tonight if you'd like (although all rooms are slightly different). Just let me know and I'll give it a shot.
MosquitoSmasher
Member
OLED owners, when you use the game mode, not the HDR one, do you keep Colour at its default 65 or put it at 50 or so? I kept it at default and change color temp to W45. For Borderlands 2 it looks great but seems to be less great for some other games. I'm just wondering what ya'll using.
I have color at 50 and color temp at w25. I try to mirror what I use for ISF dark mode for regular TV viewing. I use warm 1 there as I don't like an overall brownish picture.
In game mode I'm using color 50 and color temp W50 to match warm 2.
I set the input to PC and use ISF Dark with the default colour at 50 instead of using Game mode.
RedlineRonin
Member
Yup, pretty much the same here.
Maybeeeee 45. Some of the colors in Overwatch are eye searing by default.
MosquitoSmasher
Member
PC mode huh, but ISF Dark... doesn't that bring a lot of input lag?
Leave it at 50. Any adjustments mess up the HDR DV data.
So I just ordered a 65" LG B7. It's the most expensive TV I've ever bought :x
I wanted to check with you all if you've found any optimal settings for gaming and movie watching (with and without HDR)? If it's already been covered in this thread let me know and I'll try to look more carefully through it again.
Thank you in advance.
I wanted to check with you all if you've found any optimal settings for gaming and movie watching (with and without HDR)? If it's already been covered in this thread let me know and I'll try to look more carefully through it again.
Thank you in advance.
If you have trumotion and cinema off, it shouldn't introduce that much more lag. Test it though.
I've been comparing isf dark and isf light for awhile and I'm starting to like isf dark better too. Going to set color to 50 tonight and see how I like it.
It's been tested to not increase any input lag at all in PC mode from what I've read. PC mode turns off extra processing that leads to additional input lag.
On the b7/c7 PC mode has the same input lag as game mode.
When Rtings did their tests they found PC mode to have the same input lag as Game mode (21ms) with some additional settings available. It was covered earlier in the thread as well.
JordanBlack68
Member
Cheers!
On the LG OLEDs, MultiView (display two sources side by side) not working with with Dual play (stretch split screen games across the entire screen and allow different glasses to view different halves as fullscren) is such a missed opportunity. With stuff like the PS4 and Xbox One having headphone jacks on their controllers, how rad would it be for both you and your SO or friends to play full screen, on the same screen, at the same time, with just a pair of glasses?
Or like imagining a scenario where two switches, both have mario kart 8, and you're playing 8 player splitscreen on one big ass TV and everyone basically has one 32" screen to themselves.
So much real estate it feels like such a missed opportunity.
Does anyone know if there is a low input lag software/hardware solution for something like that?Take two HDMI inputs, stretch from 16:9 to 8:9, display both feeds side by side?
Or like imagining a scenario where two switches, both have mario kart 8, and you're playing 8 player splitscreen on one big ass TV and everyone basically has one 32" screen to themselves.
So much real estate it feels like such a missed opportunity.
Does anyone know if there is a low input lag software/hardware solution for something like that?Take two HDMI inputs, stretch from 16:9 to 8:9, display both feeds side by side?
killertofu
Member
Any GAF members ballin' enough to buy the A1E?
I've heard it handles color and grey better than the LGs but I can't justify the $2k premium.
PS3 and PS4 do not support HDMI 2.1 so no. Xb1X will have freesync support for 4k60 but it's still HDMI 2.0b and I don't know if this will work with future HDMI 2.1 tvs. For PlayStation you will have to wait on PS5 for HDMI 2.1 support.
Freesync over HDMI2.0 can work NOW on many newer TVs by simply adding some metadata to the EDID.
Anyone can transform ordinary TV [preferably with a modern panel and electronics] to a freesync TV if they have a Radeon card. Simply download the latest version of CRU and add Freesync range module to the EDID. After a manual testing, you can find out what your Freesync range is. Even if it is a narrow range, something is better than nothing.
I presume X1X will be able to detect that VRR EDID metadata, and adapt to it.
Anyone can transform ordinary TV [preferably with a modern panel and electronics] to a freesync TV if they have a Radeon card. Simply download the latest version of CRU and add Freesync range module to the EDID. After a manual testing, you can find out what your Freesync range is. Even if it is a narrow range, something is better than nothing.
I presume X1X will be able to detect that VRR EDID metadata, and adapt to it.
MosquitoSmasher
Member
Thanks guys about the color temp on OLED. Oh and as for input lag with PC mode, there's a significant difference compared to normal Game mode on my 65B6. Game mode is much snappier even if I enable game mode in PC mode.
Temeculan3000
Member
Any reason you didn't just go with 3840x1440 to avoid the scaling? Especially for desktop use that seems particularly important.
I set it up mostly to test the performance I get at 3440x1440, as I'm eyeing one of the upcoming HDR monitors with that res. I set it to do no scaling in the Nvidia Control Panel, so it's displaying 1:1.
Now set the resolution to 3840 x 1600, that will effectively give a 52 inch 21:9 monitor. Damn beautiful if you ask me.
Yeah, I'll try that as well. Pretty amazing experience so far.
TheGuardian
Member
Theres nothing to burn in because those pixels are completely off
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Samsung UE40MU6100KXXU 40 inch, 4K Ultra HD Certified Pro HDR, Smart LED TV
Sharp LC-55CUG8362KS 55 inch, 4K Ultra HD Certified, Smart TV - Black
Hisense H43N5700UK 43 inch, 4K Ultra HD Certified, Freeview Play, Smart TV
Either one a decent entry 4k hdr tv?
whats the downsides to either?
Sharp LC-55CUG8362KS 55 inch, 4K Ultra HD Certified, Smart TV - Black
Hisense H43N5700UK 43 inch, 4K Ultra HD Certified, Freeview Play, Smart TV
Either one a decent entry 4k hdr tv?
whats the downsides to either?
That's what I figured. That's really cool that you could make a 21:9 monitor out of it.
"Burn-in" on emissive displays is caused by uneven wear.
The black bars won't burn, but the center image will.
That's how you end up with Plasmas that look like this, after years of watching letterboxed movies:
The letterboxed areas end up lighter than the center, since they have aged much less.
Probably not a long time solution then, but a fun way to test the ultrawide experience for a while.
Freesync over HDMI2.0 can work NOW on many newer TVs by simply adding some metadata to the EDID.
Anyone can transform ordinary TV [preferably with a modern panel and electronics] to a freesync TV if they have a Radeon card. Simply download the latest version of CRU and add Freesync range module to the EDID. After a manual testing, you can find out what your Freesync range is. Even if it is a narrow range, something is better than nothing.
I presume X1X will be able to detect that VRR EDID metadata, and adapt to it.
You any idea what tv's this is compatible with?
Would consider going Radeon if it worked with my B6
Yes, I wouldn't be concerned about doing that short-term as a test, it's just not a permanent option.
Wow you just ask somebody to do the dirty job of endless reading forums for you?
Ryu Elessar
Member
Anyone else having issues with the updated Netflix app on PS4 Pro? It now supports HDR, but it now also always has my C7 OLED detecting everything from Netflix as HDR.
Use the C7 app. The C7 app will do Dolby Vision.
NYR
Member
Yeah, same issue. Like mentioned above, Dolby Vision is better so use the smart tv app.
SomewhatGroovy
Banned
Stiler
Member
If it were me I would, but I personally can't stand a ton of clouding/flashlighting.
SomewhatGroovy
Banned
Such a giant pain in the ass to take off the mount, repack, and drive to best buy...
sigh...
Yeah, definitely.
Stiler
Member
When you get a new tv you should try just connecting it on the stand first and make sure it's good (no dead pixels, etc) before mounting it or getting rid of the box, saves for a lot of headache if you have to take it back.
I learned this the hard way myself with a tv, ended up not only wasting a bunch of time mounting it but also had to buy a box to put it in to ship it back (which cost me 20 bucks).
mikezilla2
Member
Has the sony A1s input lag been patched ? and to What End ?
Bill Rizer
Member
I assume it is at Max backlight? What model out of curiosity?
SomewhatGroovy
Banned
TCL 605
That picture was with Backlight maxed.
Here's another
https://imgur.com/igwPEcu
(Screen looks cloudier and lighter than in person).
TV brightness: darker
Picture mode: movie
Local contrast: off
Dynamic contrast: off
Backlight 0
Brightness 50
Contrast 100
Sharpness 0
color 45
Gamma 2.2
Noise Reduction: off