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Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

BOTEC

Member
Disagree. The ones I have all come much looser than a stock sanwa.

I wouldn't recommend a person new on sticks try a different one until they're used to playing on one. For a new person, I don't think it'd make much difference. Could be that he's pressing far too hard and not letting it return to neutral for inputs, or just putting far more weight on it in general, "riding the gate." Could be that he's just not used to sticks and needs to take some time to get acclimated.

It's true you have to learn to use a stick at first, but all the levers feel so different I think he should find one he likes first, and practice on that.
 

FireSol

Member
I guess I wonder what kind of issues you're having? Have you played on a stick before? What makes you say it isn't responsive?

I haven't played on stick before, this is my first one. My issue is when I try to execute quarter-circle movies it not always read final direction(back or forward), also sometimes after I release a stick to the netrual position input history show that game also read input in opposite direction. Maybe it's more my execution flaws than the stick itself
 

Skilletor

Member
I haven't played on stick before, this is my first one. My issue is when I try to execute quarter-circle movies it not always read final direction(back or forward), also sometimes after I release a stick to the netrual position input history show that game also read input in opposite direction. Maybe it's more my execution flaws than the stick itself

A tight stick would return to neutral a bit quicker than a loose one. There's more tension on the spring to make it do that.

If you press a direction and take your hand off of the stick immediately, do you have the issue? Or are you still holding it and letting it return to neutral? To me, it sounds like you're putting a bit more pressure on the spring than you need to and not getting the full range of the motions. You might think you are, but probably just need to go a little further. It doesn't take much to activate an input on these sticks.

It's true you have to learn to use a stick at first, but all the levers feel so different I think he should find one he likes first, and practice on that.

For sure! I'd just like to eliminate user error before spending another 25-30 bucks on something that might feel relatively the same for a person. :) Especially on a person's first stick!
 

FireSol

Member
A tight stick would return to neutral a bit quicker than a loose one. There's more tension on the spring to make it do that.

If you press a direction and take your hand off of the stick immediately, do you have the issue? Or are you still holding it and letting it return to neutral? To me, it sounds like you're putting a bit more pressure on the spring than you need to and not getting the full range of the motions. You might think you are, but probably just need to go a little further. It doesn't take much to activate an input on these sticks.

I spent last 30 minutes to understand why this stuff with netrual position is happening. If I just press direction and then there is no issues, but I found that my left hand motion is not clean, because when push stick left sometimes it goes not straight left, but little left-down, game still read input as left, but when I release it game aslo read opposite direction.

About pressure...I think you are right here, because after I hear "click" I also hear how bottom part of the stick hits the plate edge and it seems when I try to execute moves fast it eats some input
 

Skilletor

Member
I spent last 30 minutes to understand why this stuff with netrual position is happening. If I just press direction and then there is no issues, but I found that my left hand motion is not clean, because when push stick left sometimes it goes not straight left, but little left-down, game still read input as left, but when I release it game aslo read opposite direction.

About pressure...I think you are right here, because after I hear "click" I also hear how bottom part of the stick hits the plate edge and it seems when I try to execute moves fast it eats some input

Yeah, if you hear the stick hitting the plat edge, you're putting more pressure than you need to. Play around with it and see how light you have to tap it to get an input to activate and adjust from there.

The rest just sounds like learning pains. You just need to get used to playing on the stick, I think. It's a common thing from the people I know who have tried to learn.
 

FireSol

Member
Yeah, if you hear the stick hitting the plat edge, you're putting more pressure than you need to. Play around with it and see how light you have to tap it to get an input to activate and adjust from there.

The rest just sounds like learning pains. You just need to get used to playing on the stick, I think. It's a common thing from the people I know who have tried to learn.

Thanks for helping! And now I have another question, when I try to execute moves like Shinku Hadoken did I need release sick between quarter-circle moves or its better control movement with hand?
 

Skilletor

Member
Thanks for helping! And now I have another question, when I try to execute moves like Shinku Hadoken did I need release sick between quarter-circle moves or its better control movement with hand?

You do not, but for stuff like that you'll want to be conscious of where you're starting the first and second rotations.

For me, if I'm not paying attention, I tend to start at d/b, and even back. One thing that really helped me get the motion down was practicing with Super Turbo. Ryu's blue fireball is just qcf, but his red fireball is hcf. It's a visual cue that immediately lets you know how accurate your inputs are, since in any SF, if you do a half-circle motion, you'll still get a fireball.
 

Skilletor

Member
Really? Thought I've seen a few guys on here say Hayabusas are tighter, which is the main reason why I'm now looking towards a RAP.

The springs I got in my two fightingedges were comparable, but all of the sticks I've bought individually were extremely loose. Definitely looser than stock sanwa.

I prefer tighter sticks, though, so that might be altering my perception. I've replaced all of the hayabusas I have with 2lb springs.
 

BOTEC

Member
Off-topic(?): I accidentally got my hands on a Real Arcade Pro 3. I don't really have a use or need for it, so I'm open letting it go. It's pretty clean, but the top panel has some scuff marks on it. The plastic case, cord, and bottom panel are flawless. I also replaced the Hori buttons with Sanwa's, so this baby is full Sanwa: JLF+OBSF's.

27Bu7Jb.jpg
 

Skilletor

Member
Thought I'd ask someone here that would have more knowledge than me. Was curious if anyone had an idea which is the correct plexiglass from tek-innovations to use on my HRAP n3 sa?

The Dead or alive 5 stick template
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=19

or

the Soul Calibur V stick template
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=18

they say they are different and I have not seen anywhere else that has my stick's template .

SC5 one. SC5/Your stick are noir

DoA is Astro.

I own both the DoA and SC5 stick :).
 

Skilletor

Member
thank you so much, really looking forward to personalizing this stick. It's the best one I've ever had. I do Hope i can mod in a octogate cause i think the stick on it now has a square one. feels like it at least.

Yep, it's a square gate.
 

FireSol

Member
Skilletor, thanks for advises you gave me they really helped, but I decide to take a breack with Arc Sys games till I get comfortable with stick and now I play SF4 and I've completely change my opinion about this game, Im really enjoy it
 

Skilletor

Member
Skilletor, thanks for advises you gave me they really helped, but I decide to take a breack with Arc Sys games till I get comfortable with stick and now I play SF4 and I've completely change my opinion about this game, Im really enjoy it

Oh, I assumed you were playing SF! lol. yeah, Arcsys games would be rough to learn a stick on. The slower pace of SF is easier, imo. :)

Just stick with it. Definitely a learning curve, but I think it's worth it in the end.
 

TriniTrin

war of titties grampa
What's the best solution for a ps4/xbone stick? Is there a board out yet or even a prebuilt one that does both ?
 

mdsfx

Member
"Before anyone asks (I know they will), we (@MadCatz) have already been working on making an Xbox One/360 compatible FightStick. Stay tuned." -MarkMan23

I have such a bad itch for this product it's not even funny.
 
What's the best solution for a ps4/xbone stick? Is there a board out yet or even a prebuilt one that does both ?
nothing perfect yet. PS360+ can do PS4 but it loses connection every 8 minutes. A soft reset was built into the firmware allowing you to play a match and reset between to get constant connection, but its a hassle.

I believe there is a good solution for xbone, but I haven't looked into it.

I keep checking back periodically hoping for a PCB option for PS4, I'm basically sulking away and not playing fighting games until my Cab can do PS4.
 
For anyone with a TE2, did your stick come with a break away cable or single piece cable?
The two Xrd TE2s I got (one for a friend) have two different types of cables(one w/ an Xbox style break away and one without) lol.
 

Skilletor

Member
For anyone with a TE2, did your stick come with a break away cable or single piece cable?
The two Xrd TE2s I got (one for a friend) have two different types of cables(one w/ an Xbox style break away and one without) lol.

My USF4 is non-breakaway, my Xrd TE is breakaway.

I thought the Xrd one had a breakaway because it came out a bit later? Guess not.
 
Decided to list my Blazblue 360 MadCatz pad that is numbered 0001/1500 on ebay. I'm thinking a collector or something may want it more than I do.
 
A lot of older equipment used a Seimitsu LS-32 or LS-40, which is effectively an octagonal restrictor.
The LS-32 doesn't have an octagonal restrictor unless you purchase one as an accessory (and I'm not certain one exists). The default restrictor options are eight way (square), four way (plus), and two way (line).
 
The LS-32 doesn't have an octagonal restrictor unless you purchase one as an accessory (and I'm not certain one exists).
I pulled up some Seimitsu levers I had kicking around and it looks like the LS-40 is indeed square, but the LS-32 has a subtle octo-square when you combine the two layers of restrictor.

Now that I think about it, doesn't the LS-32 have an issue of the outer restrictor wearing down over time and turning it into a square? A harder plastic true square restrcitor was the part change on the LS-32-02, if memory serves.
 

MarkMan

loves Arcade Sticks
How much do those Hori PS4 fightsticks weigh? My friend is going to Japan and I don't know how bulky it would be to bring back to the states.

The boxes are pretty big, comparable to a TE2 box (longer but shorter in height). The weight in box is about 8-9 lbs.
 

Spainkiller

the man who sold the world
I have a great stick that's compatible with PS3/360/PC. Is there ANY way that thing can be modded to work with PS4?
 
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