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Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

I might have a bad/worse panel than you guys but it's certainly not a rare problem with these sets. AVS is full of reports that mirror mine.

It's weird because for the first 3-6 months or so it was much better. It could easily go 30min on the same channel without retaining the white channel logo. Then out of nowhere the IR became ridiculous. Even after warm up, all it takes is 7-10 seconds of white and it's gonna hang for a little while. It's not like I have the Contrast set to 90+ either. It's at 68 I believe.
That's strange. I'm coming from a VT50 and IR got /better/ with time on the set along with black levels, etc. It's one of the reasons I absolutely loved the Panasonic plasmas. After hours of game use, I would see the HUD retained but as soon as I switched content, it would disappear relatively quickly. Never had any level of burn-in on it or on the VT25 I owned before it. IR was absolutely there. No doubt.

I can say having owned the B6 now for over a month that it doesn't display anywhere near the level of IR that I got on the VT50 if at all (I legit have not noticed anything as of yet). I fully expected similar behavior to a plasma having read impressions of the technology but between the automatic screen clean cycles which the TV performs after four hours of use and the manual cycle that can be run - it's been an marked improvement over the plasma for me. I also have the screen shift option enabled as well which is similar to the pixel orbiter function on the plasmas.
 
how do you update manually ? I'm in EU and can't find the firmware did you try hdcp issue for PS4 if it's fixed ?

I don't have a PS4 Pro yet, so I can't check the HDCP issue. Supposedly the newer firmware fixes it, though.

Updating manually is pretty easy. You just load the firmware onto a blank USB stick, drop it in a specifically-named LG_DTV folder and plug the stick into the TV. From there, it pops up a box asking if you'd like to install the newer firmware, and then you proceed as if it's an online update. Having said that, though, I don't believe that the EU firmware has dropped yet.

For US users, the page for the E6 firmware is: http://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-OLED65E6P#softwareFirmware
4.30.19 is the current, newest version (for US models, at least).

Due to the way that LG has its model lineup setup, I don't think the E6P (i.e. US product line) firmware will work with UK or any other region, so I wouldn't try it.

I think the UK model line is the E6V, although I'm not sure on that. If that's the case, this is the link for its firmware (it hasn't been updated in a while, though): http://www.lg.com/uk/support/support-product/lg-OLED65E6V#softwareFirmware
 
Which is why we're wondering how hdtvtest's Vincent Teoh tested the new fw on a C6, as he's in UK. Unless the pic he's posted is from someone in the US.
Europe basically has two model variations. "V" (Europe) and "D" (Germany with twin satellite tuners on the C6 and E6). I have an 55E6D.
 
I can only assume that SOLDIER is used to watching a TV configured to be significantly brighter than reference.

From his posts in the ks8000 settings thread i believe he uses Dynamic picture mode with backlight at 20, brightness at 56, dynamic contrast med or high, high sharpness etc. And wouldnt take advice from anyone on how nuts those settings were. Its fair enough to tune tvs's to your own preference of course but i think comments about piqture quality should be taken with a pinch of salt with this in mind.
 
Which is why we're wondering how hdtvtest's Vincent Teoh tested the new fw on a C6, as he's in UK. Unless the pic he's posted is from someone in the US.
Europe basically has two model variations. "V" (Europe) and "D" (Germany with twin satellite tuners on the C6 and E6). I have an 55E6D.

It could also be that they have a US model, not a UK model. I don't know -- I'm not familiar with the site.

I didn't know that Europe got two models, but this should be the link for the German, D model in case anyone needs it: http://www.lg.com/de/support/service-produkt/lg-OLED65E6D#softwareFirmware
It looks like it's more up-to-date than the UK one, but still not the newest version that the US just got.
 

The Beard

Member
That's strange. I'm coming from a VT50 and IR got /better/ with time on the set along with black levels, etc. It's one of the reasons I absolutely loved the Panasonic plasmas. After hours of game use, I would see the HUD retained but as soon as I switched content, it would disappear relatively quickly. Never had any level of burn-in on it or on the VT25 I owned before it. IR was absolutely there. No doubt.

I can say having owned the B6 now for over a month that it doesn't display anywhere near the level of IR that I got on the VT50 if at all (I legit have not noticed anything as of yet). I fully expected similar behavior to a plasma having read impressions of the technology but between the automatic screen clean cycles which the TV performs after four hours of use and the manual cycle that can be run - it's been an marked improvement over the plasma for me. I also have the screen shift option enabled as well which is similar to the pixel orbiter function on the plasmas.

I know, it goes against everything I heard before I bought the thing. IR resistance should get better with age, but mine got worse. I actively looked for it in first few weeks too, and I didn't really see much. Now I don't even have to look for it, it's obvious. It sucks.
 

Geneijin

Member
Having just transitioned from an ISF-calibrated KS9800 to a C6, I thought I'd weigh in on the ABL issue.

In my experience, unless a majority of your viewing habits consist of watching the Google homepage or you're used to a picture that is brighter than it objectively should be, you're not going to notice it. I've watched and played a number of things on the C6 (including anime), and never did I wish the image was brighter. Even super bright and colorful games like The Witness are just as bright on the C6 as they were on the calibrated KS9800. Of course the KS9800/8000 can get significantly brighter, but I'd rather not melt my eyeballs.

I can only assume that SOLDIER is used to watching a TV configured to be significantly brighter than reference.
Go to the menu when you're watching a bright scene. It's the easiest way to determine if ABL is on or not because the screen will become brighter, disabling it temporarily. Now if you have an HDMI splitter and an LED TV & OLED TV, compare the same bright scenes after calibrating both to Rec. 709. It's that aggressive and ruins the contrast in bright scenes. Dimmed whites is the worst effect with ABL.
 
I know, it goes against everything I heard before I bought the thing. IR resistance should get better with age, but mine got worse. I actively looked for it in first few weeks too, and I didn't really see much. Now I don't even have to look for it, it's obvious. It sucks.

I've owned an OLED for about 1 1/2 years (got last year's EG9600 model) and I've had zero IR issues with either it or my newer C6 model. And I watch a lot of sports.
 
Settled for the 55" E6 a couple of days ago. Coming from a VT50, yeah, this TV doesn't fuck around.

f7ULuR.jpg

uYvGUa.jpg

fQsxxP.jpg

Definitely worth the hype. Now to wait for the HDR update to hit the UK region.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
My dad ordered a 6300 Samsung. I'm trying to get him to order the KS8000 at the same size for $300 more.
 

holygeesus

Banned
I've owned an OLED for about 1 1/2 years (got last year's EG9600 model) and I've had zero IR issues with either it or my newer C6 model. And I watch a lot of sports.

People are confusing Image Retention with burn-in in this thread. You will have IR temporarily with your set, as with all OLED panels, but you won't have permanent burn-in.
 

dark10x

Digital Foundry pixel pusher
It seems that IR and burn in aren't exactly quantifiable terms, as I managed to burn in my Kuro.

These 2016 OLEDs do suffer pretty bad from IR. Leave a static image on and it will stay for a while, but you will *never* get burn in with them, as the compensation cycle performed, when they are turned off, eliminates any possibility of it in normal usage.
You burned in a 9G Kuro?! How on earth.

I mistakenly left a static image on mine over night before and it had no visible impact in the end. Never had issues at all.

The 7G and 8G Pioneer displays did have issues, though. The 7G pre-Kuro was the worst for IR - that thing would burn-in so easily.
 

holygeesus

Banned
You burned in a 9G Kuro?! How on earth.

I mistakenly left a static image on mine over night before and it had no visible impact in the end. Never had issues at all.

The 7G and 8G Pioneer displays did have issues, though. The 7G pre-Kuro was the worst for IR - that thing would burn-in so easily.

Yeah, I call it semi-permanent burn-in though, as it *did* disappear, but it took years. It was during the summer, where I had herniated a disc in my back, so spent the entirety of July and August pretty much bed-bound. I watched pretty much every second of the Ashes that summer, and had the banner at the bottom of the screen etched on my panel from that point on. Stupidly I turned off the screen protection (orbiter?) so I only had myself to blame.
 

SOLDIER

Member
So I'm sure a few people are going to get a laugh out of this, but I didn't think it was fair to keep silent about it considering how I got a lot of honest and helpful advice in this thread.

Despite my numerous grumblings and ignorance, I might end up keeping the LG E6 over the KS8000. Ironically (or precisely because of), I reconsidered things after the LG sold on eBay for precisely the amount I paid for it, which would have been a big relief on my part.

In fairness, I probably wouldn't have come to this conclusion had I not experienced the KS8000 myself: after learning to dial down the contrast and embrace other presets besides Dynamic, I decided to apply what I learned back to the E6. Not only was I less anal about the screen not being ultra bright (since my eyes adjusted to the settings on the KS8000), but I didn't notice the ABL as much if at all. Fired up a few anime intros, played a little Transformers Devastation, basically anything with a lot of color and effects to see if the dimming was still frequent. About the only time I did notice was in Killing Floor 2 when using the flamethrower, but that might be mitigated further with a few other tweaks.

So I'm thinking of taking one more day and switching over from the KS8000 to the E6 to play some selected content, but so far I'm leaning heavily toward keeping the OLED: the benefits are hard to ignore, including stuff like FFXV and other 4K material looking noticeably more detailed, the pure blacks without a single hint of clouding, the passive 3D and even dolby vision (if that ever becomes a trend). Even the smaller size is a non-factor, as I noticed no difference in my living space between a 55' and a 60' TV.

Either way, I'll be making my choice by tomorrow. Since I have to stop by Best Buy anyway (to pick up my Zelda Amiibos), I'll either return the KS8000 or drop off the OLED at UPS.

What could help me in making a more definitive choice is nailing down some of the recommended settings on the OLED. I basically want to know what's best for HDR and non-HDR content, primarily for games but also movies. If I recall, max contrast and Dynamic Contrast at either medium or below are ideal for HDR content. I'm also wondering about Dynamic Color and especially Black Level: I was watching the newest Death Stranding trailer, and noticed that due to the Black Level, I couldn't make out Del Toro at all when he was inside the tunnel. But people tend to leave this on? If that's so then maybe another setting is conflicting with the picture.
 

SonComet

Member
You burned in a 9G Kuro?! How on earth.

I mistakenly left a static image on mine over night before and it had no visible impact in the end. Never had issues at all.

The 7G and 8G Pioneer displays did have issues, though. The 7G pre-Kuro was the worst for IR - that thing would burn-in so easily.
I burned the destiny HUD into my 101FD. It was professionally calibrated to output 30-35fL so it wasn't running hot either. After 1000s of hours of Destiny the outline of that HUD would not go away. Weeks of running the tv wipe and full screen movies all day to wipe it away. Didn't even get slightly better... Eventually I gave the TV away and bought a Samsung 65HU9000. After 2 years with the LCD my LG 65" B6 comes tomorrow. I'm very nervous about burning it, but I miss my plasma contrast so much. And I want a non-curved screen again.

Edit: 100-300 hours, not 1000s.
 
Got an Xbox one S - color but should be set to 10 bit right? It's plugged into a b6, but doesn't give any indication that it doesn't accept 8, 10 or 12.
 

Weevilone

Member
I burned the destiny HUD into my 101FD. It was professionally calibrated to output 30-35fL so it wasn't running hot either. After 1000s of hours of Destiny the outline of that HUD would not go away. Weeks of running the tv wipe and full screen movies all day to wipe it away. Didn't even get slightly better... Eventually I gave the TV away and bought a Samsung 65HU9000. After 2 years with the LCD my LG 65" B6 comes tomorrow. I'm very nervous about burning it, but I miss my plasma contrast so much. And I want a non-curved screen again.

I would say 1000s of hours of the same image displayed is well into an extreme edge case. I'd be worried about that even with an old CRT.
 

SonComet

Member
I would say 1000s of hours of the same image displayed is well into an extreme edge case. I'd be worried about that even with an old CRT.
I exaggerated my play time. 2 years later I have 1008 hours, lol. So maybe 100-300 at the time. It feels like 1000s, but I was wrong. Oops.
 

Space_nut

Member
I have a pana plasma from 2009 that has 1000000:1 contrast. It still looks great but how much better are tvs now days? Wasn't sure to wait longer to upgrade
 
Update on lag results from the latest firmware update for E6 and C6. Bottom line, amazing job by LG to respond to our requests with a substantial improvement. They definitely now without a doubt sell the best TVs available!



We have tested our C6 and E6 and found fairly significant input lag improvements - for a 1080p @ 60Hz + HDR input the lag is now 36.6ms for both TVs, and for a 4k @ 60Hz + HDR input the lag is 36.8ms for both TVs. The reviews will be updated with this new information by the end of the day, and we will also test the other LG TVs the update applies to.

Daniel O'Keeffe
Rtings.com
 

KillGore

Member
Update on lag results from the latest firmware update for E6 and C6. Bottom line, amazing job by LG to respond to our requests with a substantial improvement. They definitely now without a doubt sell the best TVs available!



We have tested our C6 and E6 and found fairly significant input lag improvements - for a 1080p @ 60Hz + HDR input the lag is now 36.6ms for both TVs, and for a 4k @ 60Hz + HDR input the lag is 36.8ms for both TVs. The reviews will be updated with this new information by the end of the day, and we will also test the other LG TVs the update applies to.

Daniel O'Keeffe
Rtings.com

Yes! This is very good news. Now I don't have a single worry whenever I purchase my C6 ( probably after CES)
 

KillGore

Member
What do you do if there are significant improvements in the 7 series?

If the tv is that much more expensive then I'll just get the C6. If the C7 manages to be below the $3,000 MSRP and is a significant upgrade then I'll get that. When was the C6 released? March?
 

BumRush

Member
If the tv is that much more expensive then I'll just get the C6. If the C7 manages to be below the $3,000 MSRP and is a significant upgrade then I'll get that. When was the C6 releases? March?

March, yep. I expect the 7s to release above the current 6 pricing, but below 6 launch prices...
 

Clockwork

Member
Despite my numerous grumblings and ignorance, I might end up keeping the LG E6 over the KS8000. Ironically (or precisely because of), I reconsidered things after the LG sold on eBay for precisely the amount I paid for it, which would have been a big relief on my part...

...Either way, I'll be making my choice by tomorrow. Since I have to stop by Best Buy anyway (to pick up my Zelda Amiibos), I'll either return the KS8000 or drop off the OLED at UPS.

So someone already bought and paid for the thing and now you are going to back out? No offense but that's kind of a dick move.

This is why I don't even buy stuff on eBay unless it is a reputable dealer.
 

SOLDIER

Member
So someone already bought and paid for the thing and now you are going to back out? No offense but that's kind of a dick move.

This is why I don't even buy stuff on eBay unless it is a reputable dealer.

It's really up to the buyer if they want to give me a negative mark for it, but sellers should have the right to back out of a purchase if they change their minds. That's why there's a "cancel order" button. I admit it's a little shitty, but it happens.
 

b0bbyJ03

Member
So I'm sure a few people are going to get a laugh out of this, but I didn't think it was fair to keep silent about it considering how I got a lot of honest and helpful advice in this thread.

Despite my numerous grumblings and ignorance, I might end up keeping the LG E6 over the KS8000. Ironically (or precisely because of), I reconsidered things after the LG sold on eBay for precisely the amount I paid for it, which would have been a big relief on my part.

In fairness, I probably wouldn't have come to this conclusion had I not experienced the KS8000 myself: after learning to dial down the contrast and embrace other presets besides Dynamic, I decided to apply what I learned back to the E6. Not only was I less anal about the screen not being ultra bright (since my eyes adjusted to the settings on the KS8000), but I didn't notice the ABL as much if at all. Fired up a few anime intros, played a little Transformers Devastation, basically anything with a lot of color and effects to see if the dimming was still frequent. About the only time I did notice was in Killing Floor 2 when using the flamethrower, but that might be mitigated further with a few other tweaks.

So I'm thinking of taking one more day and switching over from the KS8000 to the E6 to play some selected content, but so far I'm leaning heavily toward keeping the OLED: the benefits are hard to ignore, including stuff like FFXV and other 4K material looking noticeably more detailed, the pure blacks without a single hint of clouding, the passive 3D and even dolby vision (if that ever becomes a trend). Even the smaller size is a non-factor, as I noticed no difference in my living space between a 55' and a 60' TV.

Either way, I'll be making my choice by tomorrow. Since I have to stop by Best Buy anyway (to pick up my Zelda Amiibos), I'll either return the KS8000 or drop off the OLED at UPS.

What could help me in making a more definitive choice is nailing down some of the recommended settings on the OLED. I basically want to know what's best for HDR and non-HDR content, primarily for games but also movies. If I recall, max contrast and Dynamic Contrast at either medium or below are ideal for HDR content. I'm also wondering about Dynamic Color and especially Black Level: I was watching the newest Death Stranding trailer, and noticed that due to the Black Level, I couldn't make out Del Toro at all when he was inside the tunnel. But people tend to leave this on? If that's so then maybe another setting is conflicting with the picture.


Lmao, bro this is how the path to videophile/audiophile starts. I've been an audiophile since a young age and it all started with me installing car stereos and loving the super overdone bass. My first home sound system was a Bose 5.1 with the mini cubes and when I started working at a high end electronics store the guys would make fun of me when I said I wanted to get another bose system so I kept and open mind and bought a Paradigm home theate (knowing I could return it) even though I thought it lacked bass and punch and after a few weeks i went back to my Bose and noticed that it was missing a ton of frequencies in the sound. Same with my car, I eventually started focusing on balance. I'm not a snob about audio or video cause I get it, but once you get accustomed to a high quality balance picture/audio, its starts to get harder and harder to live without it. If you keep that OLED you're gonna continue down that path my friend. Good luck, its an expensive one.
 

Brandon F

Well congratulations! You got yourself caught!
Argh, I have a 2014 Sony x850b set that supports 4K(YUV 420 only no HDR), and I am sitting here debating if HDR and an improved 4k gamut is worth replacing this TV so soon.

I am eyeing the Sony x930D as it still features 3D capability(really don't want to abandon my 3D Blu Ray collection) so kind of not thinking of the KS8000 due to Samsung ridding themselves of it in their line.

Then I am also just thinking I should screw it all and go OLED for more money, but with some of the issues. I just dunno...

Any thoughts? Are the latest 2016 sets with HDR worth upgrading over my first-gen 4K?
 

spwolf

Member
Argh, I have a 2014 Sony x850b set that supports 4K(YUV 420 only no HDR), and I am sitting here debating if HDR and an improved 4k gamut is worth replacing this TV so soon.

I am eyeing the Sony x930D as it still features 3D capability(really don't want to abandon my 3D Blu Ray collection) so kind of not thinking of the KS8000 due to Samsung ridding themselves of it in their line.

Then I am also just thinking I should screw it all and go OLED for more money, but with some of the issues. I just dunno...

Any thoughts? Are the latest 2016 sets with HDR worth upgrading over my first-gen 4K?

honestly, wait for few months to future proof your purchase or buy current OLEDs at larger discount.

By then, there will be a lot more content too.
 

Belmire

Member
I just bought a low end 4k "HDRpro" LG and can't seem to find any valuable info on it. Anyone own a 55UH6150? Was dirt cheap and couldn't resist. Would love to know if it actually supports "true" HDR.
 

ss_lemonade

Member
Anyone here ever had AGS Systems handle shipping of their TV? I ordered a TV and bluray player last week from Samsung and they used AGS to ship here to Everett, WA. Looking at the tracking details, the last 2 entries from 2 days ago are "Arrived at HUB SEA" (which I'm guessing means arrived at Seattle), and "Status: Recovered at Destination".

What does the last one mean? I keep reading that I'm supposed to receive a call or something to schedule final delivery but I haven't heard anything from them yet. I tried multiple times yesterday calling their support number, at random hours and all I keep getting is "support is busy handling other customers".
 
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