Yeah, that's kind of what I'm wondering. I'm thinking about snagging the M4 off Newegg, but I'm doing a complete build around the end of the year. I guess I could just keep using it at that point anyway, considering an SSD is supposed to feel real nice after using a regular HDD.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Yeah, that's kind of what I'm wondering. I'm thinking about snagging the M4 off Newegg, but I'm doing a complete build around the end of the year. I guess I could just keep using it at that point anyway, considering an SSD is supposed to feel real nice after using a regular HDD.
Don't but an SSD until you're going to do your build. They are only ever going to get cheaper. If there's an awesome deal you can take advantage of due to some price beat policy at a store a few weeks before you're going to build go ahead and buy it. Otherwise it's no different than buying a GPU 6 months before you buy the rest of the components. Sure you can use the SSD for the time being but if you're already used to how slow your old hard drive is you might as well wait, and be able to afford something that might even be twice as large as you would be buying now.
Could have backed up your data, done a fresh install of windows, and reinstalled all your programs in less than that time. Windows 8's refresh feature should hopefully make up for incompetent software like that and make clean windows reinstalls a lot more appealing to people.
thank you for the reply. that makes a lot more sense. is overclocking really necessary if you invest in a good graphics card? I mean, if i I want 1080p30 or 1080p60 with most of my games, is overclocking something I will have to consider or will the standard GPU clockspeed suffice? Seems overclocking is for squeezing out a little more juice than is advertised. i'm not really comfortable going down that road if i don't have to.
Thanks. I think I'll hold off.
1080i =/= 1080p. If you know for a fact that your TV can do 1080p, it's most likely the HDMI cable.
If you can find the samsung S23A700D, that's the one I'd suggest for that pricerange. Dat 120hz.
This might not be true. The big boys (OCZ, Samsung, Crucial, Corsair) are drastically cutting prices right now to edge everyone else out of the market. Loss leading is fun while it lasts.
*edit*
It is true that they will be less expensive in the long run, but the question is in ~6 months from now.
faceless007
Member
Well, I don't know if the paste is ceramic or not, I just used the stuff that came with the cooler. It doesn't say what's in it. :/
ClovingWestbrook
Banned
Hmm, that is $360 and 3D capable. I really don't care about 3D.
They will be cheaper, they will always get cheaper barring some Malaysian SSD tsunami. Even if companies profit margins increase the tech keeps marching on.
Dang, they were going for $250 a few weeks ago, even on Tiger Direct.
It's not about the 3D though, it's about 120hz.
Agreed, the analogy I'll go with is the stock market. Prices always go up in the long run, but in the long run we're all dead. It doesn't matter if they go up in the long run if when you need to cash out everything has crashed. Similarly, if someone goes to buy an SSD in 6 months to 1 year from now, prices may be higher than they currently are. They're so dirt cheap right now for the same reasons HDDs were - there's *LOTS* of competition.
You do not have to overclock your CPU if you do not want to, but if you do want to you'll need to get aftermarket cooler. Overclocking basically nets you free performance (eg a 4.5 ghz overclock on a 2500k will give you about 30% more fps) and won't effect the longevity of your cpu as long as it is well cooled.
As BMX Bandit said, the motherboards are based on standards. Generally if you're after a smaller form factor you want micro ATX (mATX), if you're going desktop then ATX is the way to go, all manufacturers will put the holes in the same places for a given standard, so all ATX boards, for example, will have the holes in the same places. I think there's some commonality between mATX and ATX too as some midi tower cases will take both types of mobo.
The heat sink question depends on whether you want to overclock, with Intel Sandybridge the question is really why wouldn't you want to overclock, the chips have ridiculous amounts of headroom. The heatsinks actually sit on top of the processors and aree pretty much nothing to do with the motherboard - the motherboard part below the chip is the socket which it's vital you get the right socket for your processor of choice, but doesn't actually do any heat dissipation. Intel retail processors come with stock heatsinks (with thermal paste already applied) right in the box, they're the heat spreader & fan assemblies you see them clipping on the top of the processor in the videos. Now, with sandybridge the heat output is low enough for you to crank up the clock to 3.8 - 4GHz with that out-of-the-box cooler. For a small outlay most people in the thread get something like the cooler master hyper 212+ / evo / whatever the latest model is. This is a bigger, more efficient heat spreader meaning for a relatively small cost you can crank up the clockspeed a bit more, the bigger lump of metal hanging off the processor means you need to screw a reinforcing bracket (they come with the coolers) on to the back of the motherboard to support the added weight. Modern cases often have cutouts allowing you to access the back of the motherboard so you can do this inside the case once you've fitted the mobo.
From there you can go nuts with massive air coolers (Noctua DH14 and the like), closed loop self contained water coolers (Antec, Corsair H series) or custom loop water setups (Koolance, XSPC) but water requires enough space in your case to fit the system's radiator. All in the pursuit of keeping the processor cool as you ramp up the clockspeed.
I've mentioned Sandybridge as it's what I have a feel for, for some reason Ivybridge (the new Intel chips) seem to run hotter, so would require more cooling. I have no clue about AMD setups. Hope all that helps a bit.
BMX Bandit
Member
sure thing.
as the other guys in here have already said overclocking certain cpus(like the 2500k)can get you quite the benefit in performance without risking any damage to the processor(if you watch your temps/etc). It has been awhile since I've done it myself so I'm still messing around with mine now trying to hit the right settings.
Looking for a Z77 ATX board in the $150 range, wondering if some people might have some personal experience to recommend something. I'm avoiding Asus due to their horrid RMA. So far I'm looking at:
GA-Z77X-UD3H
ASRock Z77 EXTREME4
BIOSTAR TZ77XE4
I don't have much experience with MSI so I'm still open to them as well. It will be a single GPU system air cooled with a medium overclock. Generally the feature-sets are all pretty good but what you can't discern from product pages is build quality and heatsink quality on the board. If anyone's built on one in this price range lately and are thrilled with it please let me know, I'd love to hear from you.
An SSD and the stock market are about as similar as a computer and a car. The vast majority of the cost of an SSD is the flash chips. The casing and PCB cost almost nothing, the controller will cost somewhere around $10 and the rest is all flash cost. Flash is constantly getting cheaper because of two things. The process technology is improving, and the flash design is improving. Process technology constantly (even when slowly) moves forward, and yields are always improving. The design is always improving of efficiency, it will never get worse or it wouldn't see production in the first place. SSDs will never go up in price unless it's the result of some catastrophic event. Remember when you could pick up 8GB memory modules about a year ago for $60 bucks and people were saying buy now, it won't be this cheap for a couple years, manufacturers are losing money on these things the cost has to go up. Fast forward a year and now you can find 8GB kits for $35. It will be a similar thing to SSDs now. They're not a bad deal right now, hell I just bought one. But if you're not building for 6 months by waiting you could likely get an SSD with significantly more storage for the same price as what you could buy now. Absolute worst case scenario they are only $10 cheaper and you miss out on having a better computing experience in that 6 month wait.
This may or may not pertain to this individual but I always like to look past the current build and pick parts that are going to be more useful after my current machine either gets passed to someone else or parted out for multiple friends/family. A 120GB HDD is going to be a limit even on some casual users while a 256GB drive would be enough for the vast majority of people, also it would even be (just) enough in a laptop. Although if I ended up throwing something like that in a laptop i'd probably pull out the optical bay and put a drive enclosure in there instead and have two drives in the system. These things are pretty rad.
GA-Z77X-UD3H
ASRock Z77 EXTREME4
BIOSTAR TZ77XE4
I don't have much experience with MSI so I'm still open to them as well. It will be a single GPU system air cooled with a medium overclock. Generally the feature-sets are all pretty good but what you can't discern from product pages is build quality and heatsink quality on the board. If anyone's built on one in this price range lately and are thrilled with it please let me know, I'd love to hear from you.
An SSD and the stock market are about as similar as a computer and a car. The vast majority of the cost of an SSD is the flash chips. The casing and PCB cost almost nothing, the controller will cost somewhere around $10 and the rest is all flash cost. Flash is constantly getting cheaper because of two things. The process technology is improving, and the flash design is improving. Process technology constantly (even when slowly) moves forward, and yields are always improving. The design is always improving of efficiency, it will never get worse or it wouldn't see production in the first place. SSDs will never go up in price unless it's the result of some catastrophic event. Remember when you could pick up 8GB memory modules about a year ago for $60 bucks and people were saying buy now, it won't be this cheap for a couple years, manufacturers are losing money on these things the cost has to go up. Fast forward a year and now you can find 8GB kits for $35. It will be a similar thing to SSDs now. They're not a bad deal right now, hell I just bought one. But if you're not building for 6 months by waiting you could likely get an SSD with significantly more storage for the same price as what you could buy now. Absolute worst case scenario they are only $10 cheaper and you miss out on having a better computing experience in that 6 month wait.
This may or may not pertain to this individual but I always like to look past the current build and pick parts that are going to be more useful after my current machine either gets passed to someone else or parted out for multiple friends/family. A 120GB HDD is going to be a limit even on some casual users while a 256GB drive would be enough for the vast majority of people, also it would even be (just) enough in a laptop. Although if I ended up throwing something like that in a laptop i'd probably pull out the optical bay and put a drive enclosure in there instead and have two drives in the system. These things are pretty rad.
Squall ASF
Member
A couple questions guys:
1. Is it possible to have a fan powered to the point where it's LED light is on but it doesn't spin? All my fans were working when I tested the system out before installing the OS but now it seems like it's only the CPU fan and the top exhaust that are moving...
2. Has anyone used the ASUS AI Suite II to overclock their CPU? It looks like it can both stress test and do the actual overclocking for you. Does it do a good job? Should I just do it manually in the BIOS instead?
1. Is it possible to have a fan powered to the point where it's LED light is on but it doesn't spin? All my fans were working when I tested the system out before installing the OS but now it seems like it's only the CPU fan and the top exhaust that are moving...
2. Has anyone used the ASUS AI Suite II to overclock their CPU? It looks like it can both stress test and do the actual overclocking for you. Does it do a good job? Should I just do it manually in the BIOS instead?
Hehe, wow. Got in there real quick.
faceless007
Member
Holy mother of God at this SSD. Did the new build yesterday. Install Windows 7 from USB stick: 10 minutes. Then the round of installing drivers for everything which needs to reboot after each one. Time from clicking "Restart" to looking at desktop again: 10 seconds. Then used Autopatcher to install all latest Windows updates; program estimated 70 minutes. It took 10.
Yep, gone within minutes. I was refreshing like crazy at 4:00, but I don't think it updated until like 4:01, maybe 4:02
BMX Bandit
Member
I know some asus mobos come with them but they're generally pretty cheap now and you'll most likely just buy it separately.
Slayer-33
Liverpool-2
That's what I get for not looking at my fucking SS daily email on my inbox lol... Fucking shit man
I think that Asus AI Suite II tool overclocks in a somewhat strange way, it's software based rather than BIOS based so your machine boots Windows, loads up the Asus software, which then tweaks the voltage and clockspeed on the fly - everytime you boot and shudown the machine it goes through that routine. Sounded like a recipe for instability to me, what happens to your overclock if the software crashes? Much better off just doing it from the BIOS, at least you'll get the same response from your system every time you power it up.
Squall ASF
Member
There are no points where the fans shouldn't be spinning if I didn't direct it to do so, right? The back fan is stock and hooked up to the power supply so it's supposed to be going full blast all the time... What should I do to test it out besides unplugging and replugging them back in? I doubt both fans are bad.
Had posted it prior but I always check the website throughout the day for prices, so I jumped on it. Debated the whole day whether or not to get one...guess I'm getting one now and going to start enjoying boot ups that are like 10-20 seconds (as if that was a bad thing).
Squall ASF
Member
Thanks, someone told me I should do the Suite II since I'm new to OC but I figure it can't be too bad if I just follow instructions.
BMX Bandit
Member
so core temp lists the tdp:95 watts
under temperature readings power is hitting 97.5 watts (max I've seen so far)
is that normal?
vid is sitting at 1.3811 volts
4.5ghz with the cores hitting 66 or so at max(prime95 at about 30mins so far).
under temperature readings power is hitting 97.5 watts (max I've seen so far)
is that normal?
vid is sitting at 1.3811 volts
4.5ghz with the cores hitting 66 or so at max(prime95 at about 30mins so far).
ClovingWestbrook
Banned
Is there an easy guide for overclocking a 2500k cpu and MSI P67A-GD55 (B3) LGA1155 Intel P67 B3 DDR3 SATA3 and USB 3.0 A&GbE ATX Motherboard?
Newegg's ebay store still has it in stock for $99.99.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290707134441
Yeah, if it is to straight power, should be 100% if the computer is turned on.
The software is pretty good if you're talking about Lynnfield, Nehalem, and Phenoms where the overclocking process is extremely difficult for beginners. With SB/SB-E/IB being as easy as it is, you will always be able to do a better job and with barely any effort. It generally leads to higher volts than what is necessary.
OP.
Good find, didn't even consder eBay. I got my order in at NewEgg already though, don't think I'm going to get it tomorrow since the deal was at 4PM EDT. Only lame thing about this deal.
Somebody sell me. Does this have any benefit besides quicker Windows boots? I still feel like it's a waste of 100 dollars, but I'm open to being swayed.
I think I'll just buy my case this week, too. The more silent cases I look at that are cheaper (Cooler Master Silencio 550) just complicates the process further. As of right now I'm leaning toward the Antec P280. Sometimes I wish people would just choose for me, as long as it's not too extraordinary of a price.
Silence + instant loading. There's also situations where you can eek out a bit more performance by not needing any HDD bays. In the 600T, you just completely remove them, then you have your front 200mm blowing right on the videocards, which in turn makes them quieter. If that's no big deal, not worth it.
How much are you looking to spend?
Though Antec has come a long way, that case is both huge and still not to the build quality standards of Fractal. I vote R3.
Around $50-60.
I'm so damn stubborn to not buy the R3 at NewEgg because it has shipping and tax for me. Wish it was on Amazon.
Edit - Does NewEgg on eBay tax? I guess I could circumvent it that way. What's the difference between the R3 Silver Arrow and just the R3?
Thanks. I'm gonna pass then. I've got noise from the whoosh of air from my fans, I don't really hear my hard drives anyways. A silent SSD would make zero difference.
Yes.
Silence isn't the main selling point of an SSD at all. you get near instant file lookup in windows explorer, games, application loading, and better general system responsiveness.
And it will allow me to get that all elusive overall WEI score >7.0.
faceless007
Member
brotkasten
Member
Seriously, getting an SSD was the best upgrade I've made in years.
Just a different color front door.
This man does not lie
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