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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Ashhong

Member
I've asked this before, but it's been a while and am finally going to buy the parts. My parents computer needs an upgrade because something in it is failing (I think mobo/ram).

All they do all day is browse the internet, stream dramas online, or organize photos, etc. I spend time there sometimes and would like to be able to play League of Legends. I have an old 4870 installed, and if that's an issue I can put in my old R9 270 as well.

All I need to replace is the CPU/Mobo, which are currently some old AMD stuff, and want to reuse the DDR3 RAM, PSU, SSD, etc.

Can someone recommend a decent mobo/CPU combo that can do the above? Preferably under 100$ if that's possible

Microcenter has an AMD A6-7400k for 60$ and a free motherboard after rebate, msi a68hm-e33. I know absolutely nothing about AMD...will that suffice for their needs?
 

ViciousDS

Banned
I thinking about doing that Best Buy deal, will end up costing me roughly the same anyway.

The RAM slots are 4 and so it's upgradable if I do wish to do in the future.

benchmarks put it really close to that ryzen system cpu wise, Plus Ryzen performs worse on older games (2014 and older.....but were talking losing frames above 60 anyways) due to its structure. Eithewr system should serve you well
 
Here's a fun one:
I have a UE590 Samsung series monitor and a LG B6 TV, and I had been fighting with an issue where I was getting really, really bad tearing on the TV but the monitor was fine when gaming in 4K. After tearing my hair out trying to figure it out for quite a while, I figured out that if I didn't duplicate the displays and ran in multi monitor instead the problem goes away. Thing is, these are in different rooms so the workaround winds up being super painful.

I'm thinking the issue is that even though the refresh rate is listed as 60 on both, the monitor is actually running something like 59hz instead. And when you duplicate the refresh rate lock is out of whack on the TV.

If anybody has a better fix for this it'd be greatly appreciated
 

Kalentan

Member
benchmarks put it really close to that ryzen system cpu wise, Plus Ryzen performs worse on older games (2014 and older.....but were talking losing frames above 60 anyways) due to its structure. Eithewr system should serve you well

In the end I went with this...

2ef93163c0020a41dd2ad5aaba044abe.png
 

Rains

Member
Question for you peeps i have 2133 ram would 3200 increase frame rates in games or have any benifit in gaming thanks
 
Just bought a new 7700k for 319 chf (in Switzerland, that's 317$; for those interested and in my country, microspot.ch has them for that price). At that price I couldn't pass.

Now let's build this new system. Here's what I've planned.

New parts I'm buying:

cpu: i7 7700k
mobo: msi z270 gaming plus
storage: samsung 960 evo 500gb m2
ram: G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200mhz 2x8gb
case: NZXT Source 340 Elite (red)

Parts I'm reusing:

heatsink: noctua-dh15
psu: Corsair AX860
gpu: Titan Xpascal
ssds/hdds/peripherals/monitor.

Thoughts? I'd like to hear about the mobo. I think It's a good choice price/perf wise (and I like the color, since I'm going for a red/black build), but I'm open to suggestions. First choice without much thought was the strix z270f.
 

Massicot

Member
Hi all. I'm having a really weird issue with a new drive that I installed and it's such a little thing but it's bugging me so much.

I recently bought a 5TB HDD just for storing pictures and media. Here is a picture of my disk management screen.

ZyBCAkA.png


It's "Larger Media" drive I. I haven't put anything on it yet.

But like, once every two hours. the File Explorer window pops up on top of everything. Like so

CSeF2TM.png


For no reason. At first I thought it might have been a loose cable, but I double checked all my cables and they are all snug. SATA and power.

Such a minor issue, since I can just x out, but it's just frustrating that I can't find out what's causing it. And googling doesn't seem to lead to a lot of people with similar issues.

TLDR: Explorer for my new hdd keeps popping up periodically and I can't figure out why.
 

ViciousDS

Banned
In the end I went with this...

yes, much nicer

the 6GB 1060 will help, also upped the cpu to the 1500 and 16GB of ram. overall for prebuilt.....solid.

Sucks though because an extra like $80 would have netted you a 1070, huge CPU upgrade as well if you just built your own. But I knew your reasons. So I would say you got a solid straight out of the box ready to go deal


edit: lol wtf liquid cooling for CPU and they upped your PSU and added another 2TB drive.....yes, I would definitely say you got a really good pre-built deal
 
Good morning everyone, I am about to bite on an Rx580 8gb version this week. I am going from a gtx 760, and I have no idea what to expect on an upgrade like this.

I am on Windows 8, on an Asus pro mobo with an i7 4770k. Is it dumb to jump to amd while using an intel processor? Where should I go to check if that video card is compatible with my mobo? Anything else that I am not asking that you glean I should be by how I'll thought out these questions are? If so please pile them on haha. Thank you!
 
Good morning everyone, I am about to bite on an Rx580 8gb version this week. I am going from a gtx 760, and I have no idea what to expect on an upgrade like this.

I am on Windows 8, on an Asus pro mobo with an i7 4770k. Is it dumb to jump to amd while using an intel processor? Where should I go to check if that video card is compatible with my mobo? Anything else that I am not asking that you glean I should be by how I'll thought out these questions are? If so please pile them on haha. Thank you!

Why not just buy a 1060? Better choice, availability, and maybe even price and performance. Oh, and upgrade to win 10.

Basically any gpu is compatible with your motherboard (unless you pick something from 20 years ago xD).

Either way, you'll see a huge upgrade. Is your cpu overclocked? If not, it's time to ;)
 
I'm in the market for a new case with more internal drive space. room for 2 SSD and 2 HDDs, decent ventilation and ideally raised.

Can anyone recommend anything between £80-150?
 
Hi all. I'm having a really weird issue with a new drive that I installed and it's such a little thing but it's bugging me so much.

I recently bought a 5TB HDD just for storing pictures and media. Here is a picture of my disk management screen.

It's "Larger Media" drive I. I haven't put anything on it yet.

But like, once every two hours. the File Explorer window pops up on top of everything. Like so


For no reason. At first I thought it might have been a loose cable, but I double checked all my cables and they are all snug. SATA and power.

Such a minor issue, since I can just x out, but it's just frustrating that I can't find out what's causing it. And googling doesn't seem to lead to a lot of people with similar issues.

TLDR: Explorer for my new hdd keeps popping up periodically and I can't figure out why.

See if the drive is being put to sleep. I'm assuming since you said you checked cables that it's not a cabling issue, but if the drive spins down and goes to sleep, windows may be treating it as an attached drive and you have it set to automatically open file explorer for freshly mounted drives like USB sticks and such.
 
Why not just buy a 1060? Better choice, availability, and maybe even price and performance. Oh, and upgrade to win 10.

Basically any gpu is compatible with your motherboard (unless you pick something from 20 years ago xD).

Either way, you'll see a huge upgrade. Is your cpu overclocked? If not, it's time to ;)

Which models/versions are reliable in the 200-240$ range for the 1060 6gb version though?

I have been looking but can't decide on which to go with. I run 1080p with no super sampling, and I am just seeing chugs and jumps when playing certain games. Any suggestions?
 

Kalentan

Member
yes, much nicer

the 6GB 1060 will help, also upped the cpu to the 1500 and 16GB of ram. overall for prebuilt.....solid.

Sucks though because an extra like $80 would have netted you a 1070, huge CPU upgrade as well if you just built your own. But I knew your reasons. So I would say you got a solid straight out of the box ready to go deal


edit: lol wtf liquid cooling for CPU and they upped your PSU and added another 2TB drive.....yes, I would definitely say you got a really good pre-built deal

Sweet. Good to hear.

Can't wait to use it in like 2 or more weeks. lol.
 
I built a new PC and I'm having a weird issue. Whenever I wake up my display it will show static for a split second before resuming. I've double checked my cables, GPU seating, etc. I used an anti-static wristband when I put it together and I'm having zero issues running intensive games.

I've got an ASUS Dual RX 480 8GB hooked up to a 1600x900 Acer LED that I bought in 2012 via DVI and I'm running on Windows 7. My monitor only takes DVI and VGA, but I do have an HDMI to DVI cable I haven't been able to try yet.
 
Which models/versions are reliable in the 200-240$ range for the 1060 6gb version though?

I have been looking but can't decide on which to go with. I run 1080p with no super sampling, and I am just seeing chugs and jumps when playing certain games. Any suggestions?

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...=gtx 1060 6gb&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=36

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=373&sort=a8&page=1

There are a lot of non reference cards with better cooling/factory OC from 219-240$.

I'd say MSI, Evga, Gigabyte are all good choices.

You still have a pretty solid cpu, so any newer gpu will be a huge jump up compared to the 760.
 
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...=gtx 1060 6gb&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=36

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=373&sort=a8&page=1

There are a lot of non reference cards with better cooling/factory OC from 219-240$.

I'd say MSI, Evga, Gigabyte are all good choices.

You still have a pretty solid cpu, so any newer gpu will be a huge jump up compared to the 760.

See my problem is I am not well versed enough to really know what is the best from all of those options, I kept gravitating towards the evga, I have a strix 760 now though and an Asus mobo, would there be any problems going that route?
 
See my problem is I am not well versed enough to really know what is the best from all of those options, I kept gravitating towards the evga, I have a strix 760 now though and an Asus mobo, would there be any problems going that route?

Nothing, really. Any known brand gpu will do.

After all, it's a low-mid-range graphics card, you're not going to heavily overclock it or anything. Best course of action is buying the cheapest one that fits your needs. EVGA is fine.

Buy a regular one though, not a mini gpu.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Kq...1060-3gb-ssc-gaming-video-card-06g-p4-6264-kr

The rx 580 like you thought in the beginning is still a valid choice, mind you. Same price more or less, 2gb more and same-ish performance (a bit slower).

I suggested a 1060 since you're already on nvidia.
 

lionelhutz

Member
I'm looking at some upgrades soon and one of them is a new video card. I have a 680 now and I'm considering the 1080 or 1080Ti. Will my i7 3770k be a limiting factor in overall performance?
 

laxu

Member
I'm looking at some upgrades soon and one of them is a new video card. I have a 680 now and I'm considering the 1080 or 1080Ti. Will my i7 3770k be a limiting factor in overall performance?

It will be a bottleneck but not that bad.

To give you an idea, going from a 3570K @ 4.5 GHz to 6600K @ 4.6 GHz was the difference of running GTA V at an unstable vs stable 30 fps or more in 4K with my 980 Ti. In lower resolutions it didn't matter that much as the game already ran well.

If you game at 1080p then you will have framerates somewhere in the hundreds so CPU deficiencies won't matter. At 1440p they will matter a bit but I was happily playing Witcher 3 with my old 3570K so it ran fine.

If you go for the 1080 Ti it will do you well until you decide to upgrade the rest of your machine. I'd only pick it if you play or intend to play at 1440p or above. For 1080p 1080 or even 1070 is great.
 

lionelhutz

Member
It will be a bottleneck but not that bad.

To give you an idea, going from a 3570K @ 4.5 GHz to 6600K @ 4.6 GHz was the difference of running GTA V at an unstable vs stable 30 fps or more in 4K with my 980 Ti. In lower resolutions it didn't matter that much as the game already ran well.

If you game at 1080p then you will have framerates somewhere in the hundreds so CPU deficiencies won't matter. At 1440p they will matter a bit but I was happily playing Witcher 3 with my old 3570K so it ran fine.

If you go for the 1080 Ti it will do you well until you decide to upgrade the rest of your machine. I'd only pick it if you play or intend to play at 1440p or above. For 1080p 1080 or even 1070 is great.

Thanks for the feedback. I was hoping to pair the 1080Ti with a 1440p g-sync monitor. The move to 1440p has the potential to trigger upgrades all around. I just need to figure out what I want to spend and if I want to commit to a full rebuild.
 

masterkajo

Member
Thinking of buying a new pc. I have a 165hz gsync monitor and I somehow got talked into getting a 1080ti (for a good price though). I know that an i7-7700k would deliver some more average fps but Ryzen should give me better 1% lows and in the same time future proof the system so I can easily swap the 1600 for a Ryzen 2700 in about 2 years. The ram should be the cheapest Samsung b-die and therefore get me the 3200mhz on ram oc so that I can get the most out of Ryzen.

What do you say? Any suggestions or alterations? Better wait a couple of weeks? Should I not get the 1080ti? (because the Ryzen CPU will bottleneck it).

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (€254.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard (€166.94 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€170.00)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB GAMING X Video Card (€750.00)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case (€83.00)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€103.00)
Total: €1527.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-18 21:02 CEST+0200

I still have a 212plus cooler with the new am4 mounts but the stock cooler should be pretty samey as far as I know. Storage will also be taken from the old pc.
 
Thinking of buying a new pc. I have a 165hz gsync monitor and I somehow got talked into getting a 1080ti (for a good price though). I know that an i7-7700k would deliver some more average fps but Ryzen should give me better 1% lows and in the same time future proof the system so I can easily swap the 1600 for a Ryzen 2700 in about 2 years. The ram should be the cheapest Samsung b-die and therefore get me the 3200mhz on ram oc so that I can get the most out of Ryzen.

What do you say? Any suggestions or alterations? Better wait a couple of weeks? Should I not get the 1080ti? (because the Ryzen CPU will bottleneck it).

I still have a 212plus cooler with the new am4 mounts but the stock cooler should be pretty samey as far as I know. Storage will also be taken from the old pc.
Check to see what the BIOS situation for that ASUS board is like. IIRC, they had the worst BIOS of the big mobo brands.
 

masterkajo

Member
Check to see what the BIOS situation for that ASUS board is like. IIRC, they had the worst BIOS of the big mobo brands.
Thanks will do. Though I have read these ram working on this Asus board at 3200. But that is of course not guaranteed and the only thing to consider.
 
If I don't have a variable refresh rate screen, and I'm playing a game that is almost-but-never-quite reaching 60 fps on graphics settings I like, does it ever make sense to try setting my refresh rate to 50hz?
To eliminate tearing? Sure, but it's a very annoying thing to change for just one game.
To eliminate tearing and have good frame pacing, yeah. Just temporarily of course. I have to do this when I watch certain videos (for example, Doctor Who) anyway.
 

ACE 1991

Member
Laptop GAF: can anyone let me know if this a reasonably good deal? Thinking of picking up the open-box of this laptop for $510. Build quality seems decent, and I really want an SSD. It's for grad school in the fall. I won't be doing anything that requires much power and won't be gaming on it. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dell-inspiron-2-in-1-13-3-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i3-8gb-memory-128gb-solid-state-drive-black/5216501.p?skuId=5216501&extStoreId=&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=f29e5cf2-a62c-4255-b6b2-4939724c005f&ksprof_id=3&ksaffcode=pg218887&ksdevice=c&lsft=ref:212,loc:2&gclid=Cj0KEQjw8tbHBRC6rLS024qYjtEBEiQA7wIDeZhB1oaNK9dnEPDoiYdQZy06oou7l4UjJtnJp_q4ljcaAoy-8P8HAQ
 

Rains

Member
Those gaming tests were all gpu limited which is why there's hardly any difference. Also nothing about frametimes. Also we are talking 3200mhz and above ram speeds. Digital foundry has a much better analysis of the impact of ram speeds.
thanks willl have look for DF video
 

Smokey

Member
The creators update to w10 has games feeling...funny to me. Noticing more stuttering and just odd feeling performance all around. Anybody else? Rolling back to previous version of W10 to see if that helps.
 

Weevilone

Member
The creators update to w10 has games feeling...funny to me. Noticing more stuttering and just odd feeling performance all around. Anybody else? Rolling back to previous version of W10 to see if that helps.

I have defer feature updates on. Will that block this thing?
 

Ashhong

Member
Rewording my previous question to clean up the clutter:

How will an AMD A6-7400k perform in a budget PC that is only used to stream videos, play league of legends, and browse the internet? The PC will also have an SSD and an HD4870 (or R9 270)
 

Izuna

Banned
Settled on getting a 6700HQ + GTX1070, 256GB SSD/GSync 17" laptop. 16GB Ram, no Thunderbolt 3 port but that's okay. There are two listed for £1200 with minor differences so, it should be a done thing.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
The creators update to w10 has games feeling...funny to me. Noticing more stuttering and just odd feeling performance all around. Anybody else? Rolling back to previous version of W10 to see if that helps.

Overwatch and Street Fighter V have been running great for me
 

Smokey

Member
Can confirm

Games run much smoother and like they should. My GPU utilization isn't bouncing all over the place on a single card either.
 

Mxrz

Member
Looking for case advice, can't seem to make up my mind.

I want a new case for the (hot) summer. Cooling is the most important aspect, followed by ease to build in (via width since I'm using a full atx board and a non-modular power supply.) Strictly air cooling for now, but maybe switching to a small water/closed cooler in the future.

Currently leaning towards the Phanteks p400 with the tempered glass side. Seem like its a little wider than the s340 elite, and $20 cheaper. Or is a full tower a safer bet?

Current case is a cheap mid tower that was an absolute nightmare to put together. My hands could barely fit the cpu/cooler in, and getting the power connection to the mainboard above it was agonizing. There is little room in the back for cable routing too. Im a little wary of most mid towers being listed as only a tiny bit wider. (8.0 vs 8.3ish).

Rosewill has a large looking full tower for around $80 with a bunch of fans, but very little video reviews for it. Most of the newegg comments mention the fan hub catching fire, so probably not ideal for temp management.
 

Kalentan

Member
Is this one better than the powerspec I linked?

Sorry, just saw your post. Let me check...

Similar:
- Both have 16 GB of RAM (Though yours is 2 x 8 wheres mine is 4 x 2)
- Same GPU

PowerSpec G221 vs AMD Rayzen 5
1TB + 250 SSD vs 1TB + 2TB
10/100/1000 vs 10/100 (for Lan Card)
500 Watts vs 400 Watts
Regular Mouse + Keyboard vs Gaming Mouse + Keyboard
i5 vs AMD Rayzen 5
Unknown Cooling vs Liquid Cooling
ASRock B250 Pro 4 vs ASUS Prime B350 (Motherboards)
1 year warranty vs 3 year warranty

Those are the differences I noted...

I can't honestly tell you which is better cause it seems to go back and forth. I couldn't figure out if yours just uses fans or liquid as it was not listed. The SSD is nice though.
 

Garou

Member
The creators update to w10 has games feeling...funny to me. Noticing more stuttering and just odd feeling performance all around. Anybody else? Rolling back to previous version of W10 to see if that helps.

Turn off Xbox-overlay and game-recorder stuff.
 

manfestival

Member
what is the likelihood of finding myself a 1070 on sale for under 400? I am considering using my extra dosh to get me one and then maybe sell off the 970 after I get the 1070. Which brings up another good question. What is the second hand market like for the 970? I never resold any of my video cards :(
 

Smokey

Member
Turn off Xbox-overlay and game-recorder stuff.

Did all of that. Still got some pretty inconsistent performance. On the roll back to previous build, all of that is gone.

--

I've converted all of my PC peripherals over to Logitech. I've been using a K65 RGB from Corsair (w/ Cherry Reds) for a long time, but after getting the G900 and seeing the quality of it and the software, I wanted to eventually get a Logitech KB. Been wanting to go back to a full KB anyway. Copped the G810 Orion Spectrum KB today. It's a $160 KB, but I got Best Buy to price Amazon for $115.

Logitech G533 Wireless Headset
Logitech G900 Mouse
Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum

33975662661_e26eef5451_z.jpg


I've come full circle. My first mechanical keyboard was a Logitech 710+ w/ Cherry Brown switches. The 810 uses Logitech's own Romer-G switches. They definitely feel different than Cherry's. If I was to assign an equivalent or a close comparison on the Cherry side, I'd say they are very close to Browns. Considering I really like the feedback from Reds, this will be an adjustment.

I remember hearing in a video review how the RGB effect in the 810 is superior to other products because of the way the lighting is done under the keys. Can say in person it definitely looks more "solid" than Corsair's offering. The colors are punchier. Whereas on the K65 the entire key is lit and you can see the lighting under it, on the 810 only the specific letter or number is lit. Looks way cleaner to me. Corsair's implementation looks messy in comparison. When you cut the RGBs off the 810 looks like a standard KB, there's nothing particularly flashy or "gamer" about it.

Mentioned it before but Logitech's software is miles ahead of CUE. The G900 and the 810 are synced together and it worked with no problem. Managing all 3 peripherals is easy and the UI is very intuitive. Also haven't ran into any issues where games would flat out not work because the Logitech software was installed (see- Mass Effect Andromeda).

I've gamed and done some general typing on the KB, and I like it. Feels good when doing either.

Really impressed with Logitech of late. Their stuff in comparison to Corsair, just feels more solid.
 
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