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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
My Xbox One S has an icon but my PS4 Pro does not and my Switch does not.
I call upon the power of the might known as Gaf
About to pull the trigger (finally) on a new set for the PS4 Pro. Are the KS8000 and KS9000 still suggested by everyone here as the best choice? I was looking at the UN65KU7500 but was advised against it...
I think a fair number here read rtings, which had KS8000 as one of the best gaming TV's going (along with the LG B6). The current quarter article says the B6 and Vizio P are still the best - readily available - sets. KS8000 inventory is in decline along with the KS800D warehouse model.
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-usage/video-gaming
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
You got it - happy shopping!
If you're a warehouse member (Costco specifically) they have the newer models on display (B7, etc.) but like the article says, the 16's are where the bang for the buck is.
I've found this too, looks like the KS7000 is being discontinued. I guess the next option is KS8000.
Its frustrating and I know they want to push new models but the KS7000 seemed like a excellent entry into 4K and could sell to a wider market with a inevitable price decrease over the course of 2017.
I'm probably just salty that I've waited for the price to continue to come down and now it looks like I won't be able to buy one. Instead I'll have to get a KS8000 at the same cost.
Richer Sounds still has the 55". Website says it's in sthe shops, but when I ordered mine in November it was OOS on the website but I got one by calling the telephone sales line.
I don't recall if it was listed as in stock for the phone back then, but I took a punt.
BLAUcopter
Gold Member
Wait, so do we want this to happen or don't we?
Yeah you want this to happen. It's basically because RGB is an uncompressed format so it's too much data to send through HDMI at 10-bit, so it automatically switches to YUV422. It switches automatically if you have it set to auto or 2160p rgb.
You can go to video output information in the ps4 pro settings to check what is being output.
Cjdamon042
Member
Welp...
Just noticed this today, was watching Netflix this morning and everything was fine, played a bit of Wonderboy and Mario Kart on the Switch, went back to Netflix and noticed this wonderful line of pixels running up the TV...
Just noticed this today, was watching Netflix this morning and everything was fine, played a bit of Wonderboy and Mario Kart on the Switch, went back to Netflix and noticed this wonderful line of pixels running up the TV...
Think I'm gona pick one of these up (UK) tomorrow.
Hope it's all good http://m.neogaf.com/showthread.php?t=1370116
Any tips?
Hope it's all good http://m.neogaf.com/showthread.php?t=1370116
Any tips?
Hdr10+ will only work for the TVs internal apps.
They cant make the 2.0a hdmi magically 2.1
Meaning blu ray players , xbox scorpio etc cant use dynamic HDR even when they update
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
Unplug the tv from the power for a few minutes and then plug it back in.
#sorrynotsorry
Member
So with Sense8 now I finally upgraded my Netflix to 4k so I can check it out. I'm fairly certain I'm streaming in 4k (at least it looks very good), but I can't be certain. Is there any way to tell what resolution the TV is currently at it? I feel like I once had an info button but I can't seem to find it again.
no uhd player? The tv is one...
So if I'm reading this right, there's no reason to be exited for this if you mainly play games then. Great. Well I guess I'd say 'should've bought a TV next year instead', but all the people buying new TVs this year will just be pissed when next year they come out with hdmi 2.2 anyway. Dynamic HDR sounded great. I hate feeling like I've had something like this for 6 months and it's already missing something. Just make a new One Connect box then at least, or at least do something.
Where have you seen that hdr10+ needs hdmi 2.1 to run? I'm pretty sure it doesn't, it's just a firmware update and requires content to be encoded with the dynamic metadata to make a difference. Currently the only content that will be available is through Amazon Prime, and that won't be until the end of the year. I don't expect it will have a huge impact anyhow.
Also I don't think it's something that will make a difference to games anyhow.
michaelius
Banned
Are there actual hardware differences in HDMI connection in 2.1 standard? Plus we already have Sony adding HDR over 1.4 connection with ps4 non pro.
There's an info button, labelled Info, above the right-arrow button.
My understanding is that much of what HDMI 2.1 offers can be done with just firmware updates. If HDR10+ doesn't require a lot of extra bandwidth it could be possible with just a firmware update. Of course both ends have to support it.
Well I joined the owners club and placed my order this morning
http://www.rgbdirect.co.uk/Products/Television/LED-TV/SAMSUNG/UE65KS8000/euronics
Got a bundle with a 4K Bluray player & 5 year warranty for £1,500
Cjdamon042
Member
Tried that and it didn't change anything, thanks though. Going to call up the place I got it from today and see what they can do as it's still under their warranty.
I've been readind quite the opposite
riginal PS4 displays a 10 bit HDR, while the PS4 Pro when displaying the 4K signal only provides the 8 bit HDR 4:2:2.I've been readind quite the opposite
PS4 Pro is 10-bit HDR using YUV422. The original is HDR using RGB. To be honest can't find anything definitive that this is 8-bit or 10-bit on the original, but it makes more sense to me that it would be 8-bit if it uses RGB.
I meant UH Blu Ray player.
Do we have official info on this? I read all kind of info and nobody can really find anything definitive
I've even read some gamers saying that HDR in FFXV has more HDR range when forcing the PS4 Pro to 1080p than in YUV due to the limited (8 bit) HDR YUV is displaying.
Do we have official info on this? I read all kind of info and nobody can really find anything definitive
I've even read some gamers saying that HDR in FFXV has more HDR range when forcing the PS4 Pro to 1080p than in YUV due to the limited (8 bit) HDR YUV is displaying.
It's in YUV so it can be 10-bit because it's a compressed format, else it would just stay in RGB. The 10-bit carries a lot of extra colour data, one of the reasons the better HDMI cable is needed, along with the resolution. Ignore the 422 after the YUV, it's just a coincidence that it adds up to 8.
Anyone else with KS8000/PS4PRO still suffering from random black screens? Can be fine for hours at a time but then once in a while I get a black screen with the audio still playing. I ordered better (read: more expensive cables) but what is wrong here?
Also, the black screens stop completely when I use YUV420 so it's a bandwidth thing? What am I looking for in quality difference in a comparison between 422 > 420? Because I really can't see the difference and normally I'm extremely critical with anything visual.
Also, the black screens stop completely when I use YUV420 so it's a bandwidth thing? What am I looking for in quality difference in a comparison between 422 > 420? Because I really can't see the difference and normally I'm extremely critical with anything visual.
mckmas8808
Mckmaster uses MasterCard to buy Slave drives
Is this new or used?
VincentMatts
Member
lol yeah thats samsung for you. Click here to see the details, no details.
LenHendricks
Member
For regular Xbox One 1080p gaming (not HDR) do you want the Smart LED on or off? Some of the brightness fluctuations seem a little wonky to me with it on. I am not running dynamic contrast either (only use it for HDR)
vpance
Member
Definitely a cable issue. Try shorter ones. And yeah, it is hard to see the difference between 420 and 422 on most content.
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
It's up to you.
Just be aware that if you turn SmartLED off the whole screen will dim and brighten in relation to the content onscreen, as opposed to just the LEDs near the bright object(s). There is no way to completely turn off dimming on this set. Some people prefer the lack of localized blooming with SmartLED off, others prefer to keep it on and maintain darker black levels in the other parts of the image.
So I'm just curious, but how are any of you okay with using Game Mode on this set ? At least on mine, Game Mode has really irritating flicker/strobing on things when you rotate the camera in most games. If I stand in the open or in the woods in Horizon for example and rotate the camera, all the branches on trees or blades of grass have like a micro flicker where the edges of the objects appear to rapidly jitter as the camera pans.
Just rotating the camera basically destroys the IQ in almost every game. I switched to movie mode and using some of the motion settings it's fixed. But I can't seem to make my settings in movie mode look as good as my game mode settings because the set won't get as bright in that mode (even when copying the same settings). Does no one else notice or have that issue ?
Just rotating the camera basically destroys the IQ in almost every game. I switched to movie mode and using some of the motion settings it's fixed. But I can't seem to make my settings in movie mode look as good as my game mode settings because the set won't get as bright in that mode (even when copying the same settings). Does no one else notice or have that issue ?
Dr. Zoidberg
Member
I notice it and I believe this is because the set uses a PWM backlight. Honestly I just got used to it after a while. It's especially noticeable in 30 fps games like Horizon. Some people aren't sensitive to it. If you are, you may be better served with a different set that doesn't do PWM. Usually there is a trade-off, PWM introduces flickery duplication whereas non PWM is more "smeary" when there are moving objects. The page I linked to will explain. Both suck, TBH.
In movie mode you can use motion interpolation (Motion Plus on Samsungs) to alleviate this problem but it introduces a lot of input lag. Again, whether you are sensitive to that or not is up to you.
TV technology still kind of sucks. There's no perfect set so you have to find the one with the flaws you can put up with. OLED is the best but even it has annoying problems.
Flibbertygiblet
Neo Member
Hey GAF, just wanted to say thank you to those of you who know what you are doing with your picture settings. My KS8000 arrived this weekend and I immediately came here to see what settings I should be using.
Watched some Netflix in 4K and it looked absolutely stellar. Then I played some games on my XB1S (1080p until that Scorpio drops) and it felt crisper than usual.
Thank you for the help!
Watched some Netflix in 4K and it looked absolutely stellar. Then I played some games on my XB1S (1080p until that Scorpio drops) and it felt crisper than usual.
Thank you for the help!
Try a different input, then definitely try a different cable. Just try another one you have first before you go buy a different one.
I had bought 2 of the Amazon basics cables and the first one caused the black screen. Second one? Not. Once.
Glad to know my set isn't having a unique issue. I'm apparently super sensitive to this so I've been dealing with the input lag instead for non multiplayer games which I would rather have than the flickering. Is there any way I can make my movie mode settings look as good as my game mode settings though ? Movie mode is supposed to look better but it doesn't have the brightness to outdo my settings in game mode. With the settings numbers for both exactly the same, game mode has a certain depth to it whereas I'm finding movie mode is looking a little more flat to me.
Do you guys get this on your PS4 Pro on KS8000?
"When displaying 4K HDR content at 60 Hz, the color format will be YUV422 or YUV420 instead of RGB due to HDMI 2.0 transfer speed limitations."
I have a high speed cable, not sure if this is normal.
Also, which resolution do you use? YUV420 or RGB? Finally, which RGB range? I've been trying to navigate this thread but everyone seems to have different recommendations and it's quite confusing.
Dynamic contrast off makes my screen look really dark...
"When displaying 4K HDR content at 60 Hz, the color format will be YUV422 or YUV420 instead of RGB due to HDMI 2.0 transfer speed limitations."
I have a high speed cable, not sure if this is normal.
Also, which resolution do you use? YUV420 or RGB? Finally, which RGB range? I've been trying to navigate this thread but everyone seems to have different recommendations and it's quite confusing.
Dynamic contrast off makes my screen look really dark...
Never experienced this. What do you have your sharpness set to?
N1tr0sOx1d3
Given another chance
I too posted about this a while back. I wasn't happy either. That was until I saw a friend's LG OLED B6 which produced the same artefacts. Then I hooked up my old TV which again produces the same results. This TV is so damn good that it highlights the issue more then my previous TV.
What you are seeing is normal for today's technology.
HDMI 2.1 I believe fixes this issue. But that will be included is the next generation of Tv's.
60fps games do not produce the flickering your seeing.
