Support NeoGAF

[Dr. Zoidberg]

So, being fed up with the buggy built-in apps on the Samsung, I tried out a Roku Premier + last night which supports 4K and HDR. The good news is that the box works fine and 4K and HDR work fine on Netflix and Amazon. Unfortunately HDR does not work for Youtube, only 4K, which is disappointing as that app is the buggiest one I use on the Samsung and I was really hoping I could use the Roku to avoid it.

So basically, it looks like I am stuck with the Samsung YT app. I could use a Chromecast ultra but I really hate using my phone to control things and the Chromecast's lack of a dedicated remote means I would never buy it.

I am curious why Google/YT do not update the YT apps for the X1S, PS4P, or Roku to support HDR. Are they playing some kind of exclusivity game? If so that is quite annoying.

 

[vpance]

Oh ? What's this and how do I try it ?

You gotta press some certain combination of remote buttons when the TV is off to access the service menu. I don't have the link to the instructions but I'm sure it's easy enough to google.

Fair warning though, it is possible to screw things up while in there, but I didn't like the fact that the accurate picture mode is dimmer so I did it.

 

[Dr. Zoidberg]

It was playing this perfectly up until this week or so (I watched season 1 and a couple of 2 a month or so ago, picked it up again this week) and it's just so stuttery or choppy. As if every 5-10 seconds it pauses or stutters video (audio stays fine) and then hits back... Anyone know how to fix this issue?

Load the Amazon app and then hold down the back button until it goes away. This force-closes the app and may solve your issue. If that doesn't work, try resetting your smarthub but be aware that you'll have to sign-in on all your apps again when it's done.

 

[v0mitg0d]

So annoyed this TV doesnt have more than 4 HDMI ports.

Can anyone recommend a good HDMI switcher? HDR support inst necessary, however it would be nice. Thanks!

 

[hesido]

You gotta press some certain combination of remote buttons when the TV is off to access the service menu. I don't have the link to the instructions but I'm sure it's easy enough to google.

Fair warning though, it is possible to screw things up while in there, but I didn't like the fact that the accurate picture mode is dimmer so I did it.

Doesn't entering service menu void warranty?

 

[vpance]

Doesn't entering service menu void warranty?

Unless they can prove what you did in the SM is the cause of whatever detect, then no. Simply entering in the menu is also not reason enough.

 

[chaosaeon]

You gotta press some certain combination of remote buttons when the TV is off to access the service menu. I don't have the link to the instructions but I'm sure it's easy enough to google.

Fair warning though, it is possible to screw things up while in there, but I didn't like the fact that the accurate picture mode is dimmer so I did it.

Oh, I'm not sure if that sounds like a good idea then ... you used it to somehow force the TV to output higher brightness in movie mode or something ?

 

[Yoday]

I've been playing in Standard mode the last few days in order to get around switching brightness settings, and I'm not really bothered by the input lag so far. I feel like if I can properly dodge counter with Valkyrie in For Honor then it's probably not that big of a deal. I performed normal in BF1 as well. I don't know, maybe I just don't notice it much.

 

[Blizzje]

Have you tested if you get black screens just setting to YUV420?

You only need to buy the $150 only if you need a cable that is 25 ft or longer. The current HDMI copper cables today just can't push the RGB444/YUV422 bandwidth from that distance unless you go fiber (YUV420 is fine with Copper HDMI from what I tested). I've tried since my setup needs more than 30ft and it works.

The certified premium is only $15 for 20ft.

Let's just hope HDMI 2.1 is backward compatible with older cables.

I did. No black screens at all when I set it to YUV420. I got some new cables yesterday so I hope this will do the trick.

What does it mean if I don't get black screens in YUV420? Why would the PS4 Pro cable that came with the console exhibit these black screens in Automatic/RGB?

 

[vpance]

Oh, I'm not sure if that sounds like a good idea then ... you used it to somehow force the TV to output higher brightness in movie mode or something ?

It unlocks 2 more picture modes that are basically movie mode except brighter.

If you don't notice any downgrades in PQ just use Standard.

 

[philm87]

I did. No black screens at all when I set it to YUV420. I got some new cables yesterday so I hope this will do the trick.

What does it mean if I don't get black screens in YUV420? Why would the PS4 Pro cable that came with the console exhibit these black screens in Automatic/RGB?

For HDR in auto/RGB it automatically switches to YUV422, which takes more bandwidth than YUV420. If it's set to YUV420 it stays at YUV420 for HDR. It's strange, not everyone gets the issue, but plenty of people do. May have been a large batch of sub-standard HDMI cables gone out with PRO consoles?

 

[mckmas8808]

Load the Amazon app and then hold down the back button until it goes away. This force-closes the app and may solve your issue. If that doesn't work, try resetting your smarthub but be aware that you'll have to sign-in on all your apps again when it's done.

I wonder if this worked.

 

[chaosaeon]

It unlocks 2 more picture modes that are basically movie mode except brighter.

If you don't notice any downgrades in PQ just use Standard.

Well I do notice a difference in how the different modes look. I just don't want to break the TV or do anything that can't be undone. Do these two extra modes just pop up alongside the regular ones ? Can you switch back to the old ones or undo whatever it is you do with these new ones ? And why are they hidden by default ? This is interesting.

 

[Robiin]

Wishmaster, thank you for your HDR settings a few pages back, they look wonderful.

What's the current "best looking" HDR show/film on Netflix nowadays? I'm almost finished with Horizon and wanna watch some good looking stuff! Chef's Table season 3 was excellent but I want something else

 

[Stiler]

So I recently picked up this tv and am hooking up my ps4/switch.

I'm having an issue with the switch where it seems to constantly want to switch my tv (no pun intended) to the switch source even if I'm using another source or just watching the tv....

Is this a known problem and if so how do I fix it? Really annoying.

 

[Robiin]

So I recently picked up this tv and am hooking up my ps4/switch.

I'm having an issue with the switch where it seems to constantly want to switch my tv (no pun intended) to the switch source even if I'm using another source or just watching the tv....

Is this a known problem and if so how do I fix it? Really annoying.

Known problem, annoying as fuck. I keep my Switch next to the dock and only plug it in when I actually want to play it.

The only known "fix" is to connect it through an AVR

 

[vpance]

Well I do notice a difference in how the different modes look. I just don't want to break the TV or do anything that can't be undone. Do these two extra modes just pop up alongside the regular ones ? Can you switch back to the old ones or undo whatever it is you do with these new ones ? And why are they hidden by default ? This is interesting.

It's totally reversible and is basically navigating to 2 sub menus and changing a setting from off to on. They're just hidden by default for pro calibrators only. The regular consumer wouldn't care about having so many modes.

I think Wishmaster has it unlocked, maybe he can post the instructions.

 

[BioHazard]

Ok, I'm really confused about this TV, I've been watching the 55" KS8000 on Amazon for some months now. At one point it was down to around $1050 and I should have bought it then, but since then it has had crazy fluctuation, going anywhere from $1200 to over $1500. I don't really understand why it goes down and up so much. Also, it's currently the same exact price as the 2017 model, the MU8000. If I have to drop 1500 should I just get the MU8000? What's the difference? I never see anyone here mention that model. Ultimately, I just really want to get a new 55 KS8000 for around $1200 from a place that delivers, is that not possible?

 

[MrGerbils]

So I recently picked up this tv and am hooking up my ps4/switch.

I'm having an issue with the switch where it seems to constantly want to switch my tv (no pun intended) to the switch source even if I'm using another source or just watching the tv....

Is this a known problem and if so how do I fix it? Really annoying.

This is a known problem and it's so frustrating that it hasn't been fixed yet. I dunno if its on Nintendo or Samsung, but something should be done. I have to remember to unplug my hdmi cable from the dock every time I'm done playing Switch.

 

[Madness]

Ok, I'm really confused about this TV, I've been watching the 55" KS8000 on Amazon for some months now. At one point it was down to around $1050 and I should have bought it then, but since then it has had crazy fluctuation, going anywhere from $1200 to over $1500. I don't really understand why it goes down and up so much. Also, it's currently the same exact price as the 2017 model, the MU8000. If I have to drop 1500 should I just get the MU8000? What's the difference? I never see anyone here mention that model. Ultimately, I just really want to get a new 55 KS8000 for around $1200 from a place that delivers, is that not possible?

The KS8000 is a much better television than the MU8000 in almost every area except build quality. The brightness of the MU8000 is almost halved, less DCI with a lower wide color gamut, more input lag, worse motion and black levels etc.

You should have bought the KS8000 at the lower price because they are almost nonexistent to find in places now. It was around $729 through EPP, I did see some $999 clearance. But beyond that, you may find it on eBay or elsewhere. I wouldn't even buy a Q7F over the KS8000. You would be more well served buying the Sony X900E at 55" now. Price will be slightly higher though but you get FALD and almost 900 nits sustainrd brightness for HDR.

 

[BioHazard]

The KS8000 is a much better television than the MU8000 in almost every area except build quality. The brightness of the MU8000 is almost halved, less DCI with a lower wide color gamut, more input lag, worse motion and black levels etc.

You should have bought the KS8000 at the lower price because they are almost nonexistent to find in places now. It was around $729 through EPP, I did see some $999 clearance. But beyond that, you may find it on eBay or elsewhere. I wouldn't even buy a Q7F over the KS8000. You would be more well served buying the Sony X900E at 55" now. Price will be slightly higher though but you get FALD and almost 900 nits sustainrd brightness for HDR.

Go figure, you're going to end up paying more waiting on a TV to drop in price and the newer model is worse. I fucking hate the technology world sometimes...

I found this listing on eBay for an attractive $900 shipped, wonder if I should bite the bullet.

 

[AndyD]

Ok, I'm really confused about this TV, I've been watching the 55" KS8000 on Amazon for some months now. At one point it was down to around $1050 and I should have bought it then, but since then it has had crazy fluctuation, going anywhere from $1200 to over $1500. I don't really understand why it goes down and up so much. Also, it's currently the same exact price as the 2017 model, the MU8000. If I have to drop 1500 should I just get the MU8000? What's the difference? I never see anyone here mention that model. Ultimately, I just really want to get a new 55 KS8000 for around $1200 from a place that delivers, is that not possible?

You're best off getting a SlickDeals alert for the model number. Jet had it under 1000 a couple of weeks ago. Same with Fry's and Dell. The stock is running low so every store is just sort of clearing them out.

The MU is apparently not as good in terms of panel quality, so the KS is still favored in terms of quality.

 

[AndersK]

Yeah, the TV is almost extinct now. Local retailers in Europe have reverted from a approx 1100 bucks dealazo to make way for the 2017 model, resulting in no stock and listings that have reverted to about 1500 bucks. Not that it matters much, since they're sold out.

Sorry man.

 

[BioHazard]

Yeah, I think I may resort to eBay. This is the correct model, right?

 

[Stiler]

Yeah, I think I may resort to eBay. This is the correct model, right?

Yep that's the correct model.

If you don't mind refurb groupon has them for quite a bit cheaper atm,
https://www.groupon.com/deals/gg-samsung-ks800-series-4k-led-suhd-tvs-refurbished

 

[Madness]

Go figure, you're going to end up paying more waiting on a TV to drop in price and the newer model is worse. I fucking hate the technology world sometimes...

I found this listing on eBay for an attractive $900 shipped, wonder if I should bite the bullet.

BuyDig is reputable. So you can be safe knowing they will sell you new if they state new. Probably won't see much lower unless some clearance locally. They're almost nonexistent in stores now.

Yep that's the correct model.

If you don't mind refurb groupon has them for quite a bit cheaper atm,
https://www.groupon.com/deals/gg-samsung-ks800-series-4k-led-suhd-tvs-refurbished

This is also a pretty solid price. But with them being refurb you are rolling a dice. But you do save a lot. I would easily recommend a KS8000 over the Mu8000 or Q7F in a heartbeat.

 

[chaosaeon]

It's totally reversible and is basically navigating to 2 sub menus and changing a setting from off to on. They're just hidden by default for pro calibrators only. The regular consumer wouldn't care about having so many modes.

I think Wishmaster has it unlocked, maybe he can post the instructions.

Oh, then I'd definitely give that a go. I'm assuming when you said earlier that you can mess up your TV you meant if you fiddle with a bunch of other things, not this, yeah ? If this is just an On/Off toggle it sounds relatively safe.

Anyone in here know how to enable it ? (wishmaster possibly ?)

 

[Wishmaster92]

Well I do notice a difference in how the different modes look. I just don't want to break the TV or do anything that can't be undone. Do these two extra modes just pop up alongside the regular ones ? Can you switch back to the old ones or undo whatever it is you do with these new ones ? And why are they hidden by default ? This is interesting.

Yeah they join the other settings. I'll try to post a walkthrough later to unlock them but you will need either an old samsung remote that has buttons( you can't access the sm with the new remote) or you will need a samsung phone or tablet and download a specific ir blaster app which is what i used.

It unlocks 2 more picture modes that are basically movie mode except brighter.

If you don't notice any downgrades in PQ just use Standard.

Are they brighter for you? I think they're just basically a copy of movie mode, they still dim during hdr mode if you leave a static image.

 

[KneehighPark]

Hey guys, need just a bit of help. I have:

An Xbox One S
And a PlayStation 4 Pro
All hooked up to a 55 inch KS8000

What should my HDMI Black level settings be on my TV (auto, low, normal), my PS4 (auto, limited, full) and my Xbox One S (standard, PC RGB). I'm seeing different answers wherever I look and am totally lost.

Thanks!

 

[Wishmaster92]

Going into the service menu will reset HDMI UHD Color to off, the Samsung light effect and all picture settings, it will not reset the CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT settings if you already have them unlocked.

Here is how to activate CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT settings

1) Download the IR service remote to an android phone or tablet: https://sameapk.com/service-remote-control/

2) Power on your tv and select tv as the source

3) Boot up the ir remote on your android device

4) point the android device to the tv and tap the S1 followed by the S2 button. Wait a couple of seconds

5) Your tv should boot up the service mode, from here you can use your original tv remote.

6) Go down to SVC and select it

7) Go down to Other Setting and select it

8) Go down to Expert and select it

9) Press right on N/D ADJ to switch from OFF to ON ( You might need to press right a couple of times for the tv to register it)

10) Press return on your remote to go all the way back to the beginning ( about 3-4 clicks)

11) Power off the tv with the remote and then power on again after a couple of seconds. Now give the tv about 30 seconds to load everything up. You should now have both settings unlocked.

 

[ss_lemonade]

Hey guys, need just a bit of help. I have:

An Xbox One S
And a PlayStation 4 Pro
All hooked up to a 55 inch KS8000

What should my HDMI Black level settings be on my TV (auto, low, normal), my PS4 (auto, limited, full) and my Xbox One S (standard, PC RGB). I'm seeing different answers wherever I look and am totally lost.

Thanks!

Low (TV), Limited (PS4) and Standard (Xbox One) is what I use

 

[KOHIPEET]

Hooked up my laptop yesterday and tried a few games. Homeworld RM looks dope in 4k. It felt like I'm a space general or something. After I've tried doom. It ran quite choppy on the 1060 in 4k but damn, it looked mighty impressive. I can't wait for native 4k gaming to become mainstream.

 

[Auto_aim1]

Is there a way to check how many hours the TV has been used in the service menu? I kinda tried looking but couldn't find the option.

 

[bubumiao]

Going into the service menu will reset HDMI UHD Color to off, the Samsung light effect and all picture settings, it will not reset the CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT settings if you already have them unlocked.

Here is how to activate CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT settings

1) Download the IR service remote to an android phone or tablet: https://sameapk.com/service-remote-control/

2) Power on your tv and select tv as the source

3) Boot up the ir remote on your android device

4) point the android device to the tv and tap the S1 followed by the S2 button. Wait a couple of seconds

5) Your tv should boot up the service mode, from here you can use your original tv remote.

6) Go down to SVC and select it

7) Go down to Other Setting and select it

8) Go down to Expert and select it

9) Press right on N/D ADJ to switch from OFF to ON ( You might need to press right a couple of times for the tv to register it)

10) Press return on your remote to go all the way back to the beginning ( about 3-4 clicks)

11) Power off the tv with the remote and then power on again after a couple of seconds. Now give the tv about 30 seconds to load everything up. You should now have both settings unlocked.

How do you get into the service menu with the older remote? Mine has physical buttons, not just the little braille bumps on power, back, extra, etc.

 

[chaosaeon]

How do you get into the service menu with the older remote? Mine has physical buttons, not just the little braille bumps on power, back, extra, etc.

And how do you do it with just the old TV remote ? I've got an old samsung remote which I found out by accident works with this TV, but I can't get an app or anything.

 

[bubumiao]

Yeah they join the other settings. I'll try to post a walkthrough later to unlock them but you will need either an old samsung remote that has buttons( you can't access the sm with the new remote) or you will need a samsung phone or tablet and download a specific ir blaster app which is what i used.

Are they brighter for you? I think they're just basically a copy of movie mode, they still dim during hdr mode if you leave a static image.

And how do you do it with just the old TV remote ? I've got an old samsung remote which I found out by accident works with this TV, but I can't get an app or anything.

I'm going by what Wishmaster said, maybe I don't have the right one he's talking about.

 

[ElfArmy177]

This TV is so damn confusing! I don't know what settings I'm supposed to use or what's supposed to look better or worse or brighter or yadda yadda.

I have a PS4 pro, and an Xbox one s. I have games that are hdr for both. Am I supposed to use movie mode or standard? Movie mode looks dark as fuck to me and makes me want to turn dynamic contrast up but then I hear I'm not supposed to have that on. Standard looks so much better but then I don't know if I'm supposed to use standard..... Because apparently some color setting yadda yadda... Lol

For the love of God can't we just have one setting for everyone that makes sense?

 

[Fret]

.

 

[Wishmaster92]

And how do you do it with just the old TV remote ? I've got an old samsung remote which I found out by accident works with this TV, but I can't get an app or anything.

Maybe try this:
http://www.hardreset.info/devices/samsung/samsung-65-suhd-smart-tv-ks8000-seria-8-ue65ks8000l/service-mode/

At first, turn off your TV by pressing the Power button on your TV remote control.

Afterwards on your remote control use the following sequence of keys: Info -> Menu -> Mute -> Power.

 

[deletethis123]

So I recently picked up this tv and am hooking up my ps4/switch.

I'm having an issue with the switch where it seems to constantly want to switch my tv (no pun intended) to the switch source even if I'm using another source or just watching the tv....

Is this a known problem and if so how do I fix it? Really annoying.

I disabled hdmi cec and that was the end of it for me. Never had that problem again.

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

Anybody else not able to switch audio tracks on the TV's video player? Whenever I play movies with multiple audio tracks from a flash drive or something, it won't let me change the audio track. I can go to Options - Audio Language, and see all the tracks listed there, but when I select one, it refuses to change to it and just stays on default. My options are to watch movies in the wrong language, or sacrifice 5.1 audio and watch it from my PC.

 

[WolfRathmA]

And what can you do in this settings? Can you have 2 separate modes for gaming one for HDR and one for SDR? This is the only use i can think of...

 

[mckmas8808]

Ok, I'm really confused about this TV, I've been watching the 55" KS8000 on Amazon for some months now. At one point it was down to around $1050 and I should have bought it then, but since then it has had crazy fluctuation, going anywhere from $1200 to over $1500. I don't really understand why it goes down and up so much. Also, it's currently the same exact price as the 2017 model, the MU8000. If I have to drop 1500 should I just get the MU8000? What's the difference? I never see anyone here mention that model. Ultimately, I just really want to get a new 55 KS8000 for around $1200 from a place that delivers, is that not possible?

Yeah I just bought the 65" KS8500 for $1600 at Sams Club. They only had 5 left and they aren't getting any more EVER! I could have gotten the KS8500 for $1500 a month ago, but was trying to wait it out.

 

[Engell]

also just got my KS8000 65" delivered, pretty damn nice as long as you don't look at it from above(something i don't plan on doing), but looked super disappointing when i just unpacked it and tested it while it was standing on the floor plus the default overly-bright settings. But putting it on on the TV table in eyes height and putting the backlight at non eye-scorching level fixed most of this issue.

There are some scenes where the backlight is getting a bit aggressive and i can see the light coming from below, but looks like it is actually something they could reduce in software, since i haven't really noticed it if the content is letterboxed. But again usually not an issue.

In the end it's a good TV for the price, I gave new $1161 before tax this was in EU(so KS7000 by name) and the offer is not valid anymore, also we pay alot of tax :-(

Also please shame me for liking HDR+ mode with native color, 90 contrast, its not accurate but most things look pretty damn good.
Haven't tested games yet, shame on me again

 

[AndyD]

Also please shame me for liking HDR+ mode with native color, 90 contrast, its not accurate but most things look pretty damn good.

HDR with native color is the way it's supposed to be for accuracy, isn't it? And you can bring down the contrast some and turn on dynamic contrast. It seems to give better results. I am settling into low/medium and I find I like it a lot. Mainly becuase I have windows and glare onto the TV, so I need it bright.

 

[professor_t]

Things we're going well for me with this TV until I got the latest Windows 10 update (the creator's build or whatever the hell it's called).

Now with my PC connected to the TV it thinks it recognizes an HDR signal even when one isn't present, and I'm not sure about the best way to work around that. I think I may just try to roll back to an earlier version of Windows 10.

I know that there probably aren't a lot of people using this TV with a comfy couch PC setup, but is anyone else having this problem?

 

[vpance]

Also please shame me for liking HDR+ mode with native color, 90 contrast, its not accurate but most things look pretty damn good.
Haven't tested games yet, shame on me again

Don't feel shame, because it actually works pretty damn well. Samsung did a good job with that plus mode. Try using DC Low or Med when you have it enabled for more contrast.

Abzu with HDR+ looks amazing. Check it out if you've got it.

HDR with native color is the way it's supposed to be for accuracy, isn't it?

Actually I think it's supposed to be on Auto. I had it on Native with HDR and the colors were all desaturated. I know for sure Native is not correct with SDR but it makes reds pop way more. Down to personal preference I guess.

 

[Engell]

HDR with native color is the way it's supposed to be for accuracy, isn't it?

i have no idea guess it all depends on the content as well, found that the auto color would sometimes fail miserably and then other times get it right.

I'm running smart-led on low, warm2, gamma0

 

[Gowans]

I still need to tinker with the screen settings but I have two new bugs that are annoying me.

- My Switch keeps pulling HDMI over to it when it's docked and charging

- My Sound bar is connected via Optical Out and the volume on the remote isn't controlling it

Help?

 

[AndyD]

Don't feel shame, because it actually works pretty damn well. Samsung did a good job with that plus mode. Try using DC Low or Med when you have it enabled for more contrast.

Abzu with HDR+ looks amazing. Check it out if you've got it.



Actually I think it's supposed to be on Auto. I had it on Native with HDR and the colors were all desaturated. I know for sure Native is not correct with SDR but it makes reds pop way more. Down to personal preference I guess.

Abzu is fantastic indeed. I guess I was thinking Auto then. Red pops for sure on this display in certain SDR situations.

I still need to tinker with the screen settings but I have two new bugs that are annoying me.

- My Switch keeps pulling HDMI over to it when it's docked and charging

- My Sound bar is connected via Optical Out and the volume on the remote isn't controlling it

Help?

- Nothing to do on the Switch, other than run it through a receiver.
- Volume on the bar remote or TV remote? You should be able to set the TV sound out to Optical then use the TV remote volume without problems. It may not show the number of the volume setting, but it should show the +/- logo.