TLZ
Banned
Having PS4 on Full and TV in Low should give you a washed out image though, I think. You'd want to have both using the same setting.
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KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
Having PS4 on Full and TV in Low should give you a washed out image though, I think. You'd want to have both using the same setting.
Aztechnology
Member
I don't know what the deal is, but in PC mode it felt very unresponsive when playing video games while game mode felt quite good.
Is the HDMI Black Level normal setting "limited"?
OmniscientZiltoid
Neo Member
TLZ
Banned
Aztechnology
Member
Is there any difference in the quality of panel used between the 60KS8000 and the 65KS8000? I know that is an issue with the Vizio M-Series 4K sets. I keep flip-flopping back and forth between the 60" and 65" KS8000, I've had a 60" 1080p Vizio for the past few years and I'm worried the jump to 4K and HDR won't feel as significant if I don't step up the screen size as well.
Lakerchick4life
Member
I purchased the KS8000 on Sunday hopefully it will ship soon..I am also going to purchase the PS4 PRO..do I need to buy an HDMI 2.0 cable in order for the PS4 PRO to work on the TV or is the standard cable that comes with the PRO enough
Hdmi cable from pro is good enough
Yup that's why I keep it on auto
For some reason turning on UHD color causes my PS4 to lose signal. Is there a reason for that?
Ummm
You have a pro right
Idk man. Using the hdmi that came with the Pro? Straight from it to tv?
FarFromAnyGame
Banned
I don't think this TV has a blur filter. Sharpness at 0 is where it should be.
PC mode sharpness is different. 50 is like 0 is other modes like Game Mode.
FarFromAnyGame
Banned
A bit off topic but it's about the same tv:
I'd like to buy the KS7090 (KS8000 in US), but I now read that it only has a 8+2 bit panel instead of a "real" 10 bit one. Is that a big difference or should I go for the KS8090 (i assume this is KS9000 in US?), because it has a 10 bit panel. It is several hundred euros more expensive though, is the difference worth it?
I'd like to buy the KS7090 (KS8000 in US), but I now read that it only has a 8+2 bit panel instead of a "real" 10 bit one. Is that a big difference or should I go for the KS8090 (i assume this is KS9000 in US?), because it has a 10 bit panel. It is several hundred euros more expensive though, is the difference worth it?
I thought the (EU) ks7000 and ks8000 both used the same panel, with only those stupid feet stands being the main difference? Havent seen them side-by-side to compare yet. The consensus seems to be the 7000 looks great regardless and is the best value for money.
I'm looking at the panasonic 750b, which apparenty is 8 bit but works as well as a 10 bit.
Really? Source for that? I have the KS7090 (Germany) and was under the impression that it was the exact same hardware as the KS7000 UK/KS8000 US models.
Seriously Samsung, it's called globalization. These different model names are driving me nuts.
Aztechnology
Member
The KS8000 in the U.S definitely has a 10 bit panel. In fact I'm fairly certain the KS8000 and 9000 share the same panels. The set design is the only differing factor.
Fucking glossy plastic. I hate glossy plastic. But I love saving money.
Quick question on the Limited vs. Full debate: I'm using the custom calibrated color space settings from rtings.com which look perfectly fine to me (had to set them up for regular movie mode and HDR separately). Is the custom setting using limited or full colorspace?
All I know is that my PS4 Pro detects 4K w/ RGB just fine and the Xbox One S also supports it but I have no idea wether or not I'm crushing blacks with this.
All I know is that my PS4 Pro detects 4K w/ RGB just fine and the Xbox One S also supports it but I have no idea wether or not I'm crushing blacks with this.
If your Samsung is anything like my JS9500 then you can just set the black level to auto on PS4 settings and TV settings. And for all the folks having trouble, consensus seems to be to correct your TV settings and auto everything on PS4...
http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1479212981
There is no debate, just some general confusion.
When the Pro is set to auto in a game without HDR metadata, the Pro defaults to 8-bit RGB full. Your set should also be on full (Auto typically works correctly and picks this up).
When the Pro is set to auto in a game with HDR, the Pro defaults to either YUV422 or YUV420, but it will only output limited, so your set also needs to be in limited, again most of the 4K sets have no problem with auto picking this up.
That's a good article for people just getting their feet wet with 4K sets and the Pro. Nice find.
infinityBCRT
Member
If you set it to rtings settings with backlight max you don't need dynamic contrast. Dynamic contrast is just processing away the HDR details.
I understand that 'auto' would be the way to go but what if you want to use custom settings for color space? There are 6 menu pages where you can individually calibrate RGB levels, but no way of telling if they apply to 'native' or 'auto' setting for this option.
Choosing either 'auto' or 'native' makes the TV lose all the fine-tuning done manually.
KyleOnTheRun
Member
I want to thank the OP for helping to organize this conversation. My KS8000 arrived yesterday (seriously, how many of these TVs have GAFers bought in the last couple weeks?) and without having the wherewithal to do a great calibration myself, OP's settings were an awesome starting point. Tomb Raider looked utterly fantastic (those quantum dots really brought out color compared to my previous set), and FFXV in HDR was eye-searing (in a good way).
This hasn't been my experience. In FFXV, with Dynamic Contrast off, the image feels dull and lifeless. I don't think that's the intention; at Medium and High, it looks vibrant and far closer to what Digital Foundry showed in its FFXV filmed-footage showing off HDR.
This hasn't been my experience. In FFXV, with Dynamic Contrast off, the image feels dull and lifeless. I don't think that's the intention; at Medium and High, it looks vibrant and far closer to what Digital Foundry showed in its FFXV filmed-footage showing off HDR.
Tuning RGB levels fixes your greyscale. If your TV has a color management system (CMS) you can use that and a colorimeter to adjust the colors in a given color space container, but this is not the same as your greyscale adjustment.
The color space option should be set to auto so that when the color container is BT.2020, it will be recognized as such, and vice versa for Rec709.
SEGAvangelist
Member
Why is everyone recommending to turn on Dynamic Contrast? Does it function differently on this TV? On every other TV, Dynamic Contrast just crushes blacks.
Noboru Wataya
Banned
With my set it is quite the opposite. With the rtings settings on HDR, not having dynamic contrast on ruins the image and takes away the detail. There are no blacks on the screen and all the colour feels drained. It was quite ugly to be honest. I was worried I had wasted my money as my 1080p Samsung looked better.
TetraGenesis
Member
God, why is it all so complicated?
Just bought this TV and I'm so excited for it to arrive but I'm not looking forward to all the fiddling I'll have to do. Especially with manually switching between HDR and SDR settings.
Just bought this TV and I'm so excited for it to arrive but I'm not looking forward to all the fiddling I'll have to do. Especially with manually switching between HDR and SDR settings.
KyleOnTheRun
Member
I think the main difference here is that in HDR mode, Dynamic Contrast amplifies that contrast and really boosts the effect. The recommendation for SDR content is to not use Dynamic Contrast.
That's what I've garnered, at least.
I just set mine up last night. I went with OP's settings and it looks fantastic. There isn't much HDR content to play with yet, so even though having to manually bump Backlight to 20 and Dynamic Contrast to Med/High is a little annoying when switching to HDR content in Game Mode, I'll only be doing it sporadically.
metalmachine
Member
I posted this over on the PS4 Pro Black Screen Fix (w/ Audio Dropping) thread http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=224651628&highlight=#post224651628 and thought it was relevant to post here as well since I also have the KS8000.
OmniscientZiltoid
Neo Member
I'm getting proper 5.1 via optical out. Just set your PS4 and TV to bitsreaming DTS.
The calibration for color space is discarded when I chose 'auto' for this setting.
I can only choose between 'auto', 'native' and 'custom'. Neither 'auto' nor 'native' give me any fine-tuning options.
KyleOnTheRun
Member
Warm2 is tough for me. I've been playing on a Cool setting for a couple years because I love the way it cranks up the PS4 menu's blues.
I can do Warm1, but Warm2 feels so yellow. You stand by that setting, though?
Noboru Wataya
Banned
Warm 2 is the closest setting to the D65 standard. Which is based on midday sunlight. But at the end of the day if you prefer it at warm 1 then rock it, you aren't going to lose out.
Do what looks best to to you in the end for sure
Anyone have the back panel separation issue with their KS8000?
I don't (yet), but with my TV mounted I wonder if I'm more susceptible to the issue. Thnk it has to do with Samsung not using screws to hold the back panel in place, and using glue instead. So if the TV gets hot, it could separate.
Samsung pls.
I don't (yet), but with my TV mounted I wonder if I'm more susceptible to the issue. Thnk it has to do with Samsung not using screws to hold the back panel in place, and using glue instead. So if the TV gets hot, it could separate.
Samsung pls.
DreadfulOmen
Member
when it comes to games, i usually set it on whatever looks good to me, but for movies i set it to warm2, because that's what movies usually look like in the theater and how the director and colorist authored the movie.
EDIT: so strange. my EPP account started working again, so i'll be joining the ks8000 club soon. I was planning to wait for dynamic metadata, but for the price, i had to jump on it.
I had 1150.7 today. I can't find update notes anywhere.
digitalrelic
Banned
As an owner of the KS8000, I'm shocked that this thread is this huge and still has constant activity. What the hell are all of you talking about on here?
As long as we aren't talking about 2 or 10 point greyscale...
If you choose custom, and then you use a color management system along with HCFR or Calman and a colorimeter to calibrate your CIE saturations. Do you get a different settings when HDR is enabled?
Couldn't you just read it and literally get what we would type?
First post has my preffered settings if that's what you want to know