-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
- Start date
So here's some tips do you can tell what your TV is doing while streaming.
Netflix:
Press the 123 button then choose the i with a circle around it. That'll show you the resolution on the top left. My connection fluctuates between 2160 and 1440.
Amazon:
Press the middle button. It'll say HDR in bold if HDR content. HD for 720, HD 1080p for 1080p and HD Ultra for 2160.
For either if you have your TV in Movie mode the TV will auto adjust the backlight to 20 if you start HDR content (no matter if the little notification pops up). Since I have mine lower by default it's a good way to know what the content is.
Oddly enough Marco Polo kicks into HDR but Daredevil does not even though it's listed as HDR. Amazon seems more consistent in kicking into HDR.
Netflix:
Press the 123 button then choose the i with a circle around it. That'll show you the resolution on the top left. My connection fluctuates between 2160 and 1440.
Amazon:
Press the middle button. It'll say HDR in bold if HDR content. HD for 720, HD 1080p for 1080p and HD Ultra for 2160.
For either if you have your TV in Movie mode the TV will auto adjust the backlight to 20 if you start HDR content (no matter if the little notification pops up). Since I have mine lower by default it's a good way to know what the content is.
Oddly enough Marco Polo kicks into HDR but Daredevil does not even though it's listed as HDR. Amazon seems more consistent in kicking into HDR.
Quick Mustard
Member
From memory, couldn't see a difference, but it's 1:15am in the UK and I'm knackered so in bed now, lol
Will try more games tomorrow and see what results I get for each mode and report back here.
Yeah ill try a few diff games as well.
I swear at some point I'm actually going to play some games instead of all this God damn testing and tuning lol
Aztechnology
Member
So I cannot play games on PC mode. Game mode input lag is fast and responsive, but when I tried to play BF1 on the KS8000 it was miserable until I switched to game mode.
Anyone have some setting setting recommendations for a moderately lit room? Darker tones especially look washed out.
Currently have
Backlight: 12
Brightness: 45 (Any lower and I lose black range)
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 20
Smart LED is at High
HDMI black level low (I'm fairly certain this needs to be normal and then lower my brightness to compensate, black level normal is limited as opposed to full I'm assuming?
Edit: Yea black clipping tests are not showing properly at low.
Dynamic Contrast Medium
Color Tone: Warm 1 (I know this should probably be warm 2, but I like a little more blue)
Gamma: 0
Anyone have some setting setting recommendations for a moderately lit room? Darker tones especially look washed out.
Currently have
Backlight: 12
Brightness: 45 (Any lower and I lose black range)
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 20
Smart LED is at High
HDMI black level low (I'm fairly certain this needs to be normal and then lower my brightness to compensate, black level normal is limited as opposed to full I'm assuming?
Edit: Yea black clipping tests are not showing properly at low.
Dynamic Contrast Medium
Color Tone: Warm 1 (I know this should probably be warm 2, but I like a little more blue)
Gamma: 0
I believe that means it is 4k. It will say hdr if I has hdr. Except daredevil season 2, which is labeled as having hdr but it doesn't
vatstep
This poster pulses with an appeal so broad the typical restraints of our societies fall by the wayside.
I don't know why the fuck this TV is so finicky when it comes to connecting to my network. It was working for a few weeks and now it's screwy again. It's not being assigned an IP address by my router for some reason; the error the TV gives me is "IP auto setting failed".
I'm not very networking savvy to begin with. Does anyone know how I manually assign an IP? The rest of my devices have similar IPs as you'd expect.
I'm not very networking savvy to begin with. Does anyone know how I manually assign an IP? The rest of my devices have similar IPs as you'd expect.
RoninChaos
Member
Anyone having really washed out and artifact laced blacks with HBO now?
Aztechnology
Member
Fudged around some more and ended with this, which is the best I seem to be able to get it.
Backlight: 10
Brightness: 45 (Any lower and I lose black range)
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 20
Smart LED: High
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Dynamic Contrast: High
Color Tone: Warm1
Man PC mode is a pain.
RoninChaos
Member
Also should you set the Xbox one to 10 bit color? When I do everything gets hella dark.
WordsintheWater
Member
10 bit color is what you want with HDR, change the settings to make it not look dark.
The audio over optical is so unreliable. I feel I must be doing something wrong.
Does anyone else have these problems? Like frequently when switching content the audio stops working and I have to keep messing with the settings switching between options until I end up back where I started and it works all of a sudden.
Wonder if it's something wrong with my unit?
Does anyone else have these problems? Like frequently when switching content the audio stops working and I have to keep messing with the settings switching between options until I end up back where I started and it works all of a sudden.
Wonder if it's something wrong with my unit?
BattleMonkey
Member
The little tv stand it comes with, I read somewhere saying that they can be mounted in two different positions. Most pics have the two stand feets placed near the end of the tv, but supposedly you can mount the feet stands closer to the center?
Majima Everywhere System
Member
After a certain size. 65 inch has it for sure, I used the middle holes.
Same with 60"
Connect your PS4 directly to the TV instead of going through the VR box. Pretty sure that causes banding
The Hermit
Member
Sharpness adds artificial white lines around objects. You are introducing something artificial to the picture. Try turning it up on high and look closely at the screen and you will see what I am talking about clearly.
Warm 2 is the standard. However its if its too warm for you then Warm 1 isn't horrible. I would set it to Warm 2 and try to get used to it and that is what professionally calibrated sets use.
Dynamic Contrast should be turned off. Having at high is messing up brightness, black levels, and pretty much everything else. Dynamic contrast essentially blows out whites and blacks. What this means is that both are crushed which eliminates details in bright and dark areas.
These settings are particularly bad in HDR mode. HDR is all about delivering an accurate lifelike picture. Introducing artificial elements like sharpness and dynamic contrast goes against that and contradicts what content creators intended the viewer to see.
Dusktildawn48
Member
Back of the tv on the left and the wall on the right lol.
It does look pretty trippy though.
Aztechnology
Member
I understand that, and I didn't want to turn many of these settings on, but just for general use on my desktop, everything is very very washed out if I don't use normal black levels. Turning those up helped to bring the image back to a tolerable level without losing the highlights and blacks during clipping tests.
As for Sharpness that's simply my personal preference. I normally have my sharpness below 20 which doesn't introduce any lines, not sure if 30 even does here. But I like the slightly exaggerated look from the sharpness. 30 really isn't that high on this set.
I saw on rtings.com that they recommend turning on HDMI UHD Color for PC's. It didn't make anything better for me but maybe try that.
Also sharpness above 0 introduces lines. Its just how it works. Its not making the image itself look sharper its making the artificial lines bolder/bigger as the setting is increased. Its just less apparent at low settings.
I watch a lot of hockey and it looks great. Samsung and Sony have the best internal scaling tech on the market. A lot of hockey is 720p so I made sure before I bought the set that it could handle that well and it does. I considered the Vizio P series but apparantly Vizio sets don't handle 720p content well. I returned two 1080p Sony sets because of terrible gray uniformity (dirty screen effect) which when bad makes watching hockey torture because its entirely horizontal movement on a white background. It was the first thing I tested on the TV and I was happy to not see DSE's to any noticeable degree.
This only exists on the 60" and 65" inch models.
Dynamic contrast is needed for hdr on this set. I have also read in HDR it does not have the negative effects it does to sdr content
Is hockey noticeably a huge upgrade over normal LCD tv's like the Haier, or lower class samsung/sony models.
Damn, that's a shame.
lowhighkang_LHK
Member
HDMI black level? Is that talking about it's RGB range. How many options are there to select from?
GalacticMouse
Member
Fantastic. I've had a Vizio M-Series (2015) for a little over a year now and just got a KS8500 recently. What a huge jump in quality. It handles motion very well and the uniformity on the screen is excellent for fast panning cameras.
Where did you read this? I might be going off old information which is why I have a general stigma toward it.
It was a noticeable upgrade from my 1080p Samsung I bought less than two years ago that decided to die in the middle of me watching Stranger Things. Colors just look better on this TV even on non-HDR content. Black levels are also excellent.
Black level on the Samsung l is the same as video level (RGB range), and only has two settings, full or limited. Samsung translation is normal or low.
EDIT: Black Level on the Sony sets is what most TV mnfrs call brightness, and brightness is the backlight. say that 5 times fast.
For Samsung, HDR, its actually needed at low/mid.
Do not use for SDR.
I wonder if Samsung has tied the EOTF to this function when using HDR metadata, and without it, maybe it is default to a static gamma curve 2.2 or so, and with it, allows for PQ.
lowhighkang_LHK
Member
Leave sharpness to 0. Samsungs work differently than Sony's. 0 sharpness on a samsung is the default image. Sony's work on a 0 to 100 scale, where 50 is baseline. Anything below is artificial blurriness, whereas anything about 50 is artificial sharpness.
So on samsungs you want it on 0. On Sony's you want it on 50.
Also, you turned on HDMI UHD Color ON right? You can't get HDR without doing that.
lowhighkang_LHK
Member
Okay. In that case he needs to know:
Black Level Low = RGB Limited
Black Level Normal = RGB Full
Classic_Gs
Member
I think sound coming out of TVs are trash and have an LG sound bar that I like quite a bit. I bought at BB and it has a wireless sub. Was around $215.
OmniscientZiltoid
Neo Member
I was finally able to get results I am happy with in HDR and regular mode.
Initially I was one of the people that was not sure if HDR is on at all but now the HDR effect
is clearly visible in Last of Us and First Light.
Everything was calibrated using the Disney WOW Blu Ray (which I absolutely recommend).
Regular content
PS4 settings:
- Set all PS4 Display options to Automatic
- Set RGB range to Full
TV settings:
- Make sure your Firmware is at least '1142'
- Set Picture Mode to Movie (if not available, turn off Game Mode, set, then turn Game Mode back on)
- Make sure 'Picture Size/Fit to Screen' is on
- Backlight: 10 (depends on the brightness of your room)
- Brightness: 45
- Contrast: 97
- Sharpness: 20 (this especially helps 1080p content)
- Color: 53
- Tint (G/R): G53/R47
- Smart LED: High
- HDMI UHD Color (Set to ON and leave it)
- Dynamic Contrast: Off
- Color Tone: Wam1
- Gamma: 0
- Color Space: Auto
HDR content
Same settings as above except manually switch to:
- Backlight: 20
- Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Initially I was one of the people that was not sure if HDR is on at all but now the HDR effect
is clearly visible in Last of Us and First Light.
Everything was calibrated using the Disney WOW Blu Ray (which I absolutely recommend).
Regular content
PS4 settings:
- Set all PS4 Display options to Automatic
- Set RGB range to Full
TV settings:
- Make sure your Firmware is at least '1142'
- Set Picture Mode to Movie (if not available, turn off Game Mode, set, then turn Game Mode back on)
- Make sure 'Picture Size/Fit to Screen' is on
- Backlight: 10 (depends on the brightness of your room)
- Brightness: 45
- Contrast: 97
- Sharpness: 20 (this especially helps 1080p content)
- Color: 53
- Tint (G/R): G53/R47
- Smart LED: High
- HDMI UHD Color (Set to ON and leave it)
- Dynamic Contrast: Off
- Color Tone: Wam1
- Gamma: 0
- Color Space: Auto
HDR content
Same settings as above except manually switch to:
- Backlight: 20
- Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Finally home from work. Going to see if forcing y20 resolution makes last of us look any better. Leaving the tv itself on auto.
Hopefully this is something my eyes can see because I have a hard time with small details other people can do.
I can force it everytime anyways. I just don't like the idea of extra work if it's accomplishing nothing.
Also. To the dude above using warm1. Use whatever floats your boat but I would strongly reccomend at least doing some more testing on warm 2. It's so much more natural to look at imo
Not really sure why you have any sharpness. I've always read to have 0 on this set but I'm very uninformed
Care to fill me in?
Also are you getting a y22 signal on ps output display? Or are you forcing the y20?
Hopefully this is something my eyes can see because I have a hard time with small details other people can do.
I can force it everytime anyways. I just don't like the idea of extra work if it's accomplishing nothing.
Also. To the dude above using warm1. Use whatever floats your boat but I would strongly reccomend at least doing some more testing on warm 2. It's so much more natural to look at imo
Not really sure why you have any sharpness. I've always read to have 0 on this set but I'm very uninformed
Care to fill me in?
Also are you getting a y22 signal on ps output display? Or are you forcing the y20?
Filth
Member
OmniscientZiltoid
Neo Member
Yeah, I guess Warm1/2 is a personal preference. We'll see if I feel comfortable with 2 eventually.
For sharpness, that's a preference too but like I mentioned, it really helps 1080p content. Even for 4k I feel it helps. However it can be too much with HDR content, since it already brings out more details.
I did try forcing the PS4 output but it seems that the auto setting works quite well, so I'm sticking with that.
OmniscientZiltoid
Neo Member
I don't have cable but the above settings work well for me in SDR games, Blu Ray and HDR games all from PS4.
family_guy
Member
That would be annoying to have to switch settings every time you're not playing a game in HDR. I'm not as bothered by input lag so I leave mine in movie mode and let it auto switch settings for HDR.
Aztechnology
Member
UHD color is on. The issue is not with that though. I'm not trying to get HDR to work on my PC yet. First I'm trying to get the TV calibrate properly for PC. If I use HDMI black level low or automatic it's far too dark and the clipping test shows that I'm losing white and black details or more aptly doesn't show the details. However if I use HDMI normal the color and dark details definitely feel significantly less rich.
I like a little artificial sharpness when I play games.
I just spent an hour switching between auto (y22) and forcing y20 mode in last of us hdr with DC at medium.
If there is a difference I can't tell. I kept thinking I was seeing a better contrast of light and darks when I forced y20 but the fact that sat there and switched for a solid hour and still am not sure...
I'm going to go ahead and say it was placebo effect. I really want to believe I'm seeing something better but I just can't trust I'm not tricking myself. Either way y20 looks brilliant.
That said I will probably just set it to y20 anyways bc it obviously didn't hurt anything.
I would say you are probably safe with auto/auto though if you don't want to spend time forcing it.
Edit:spent 20 minutes in uncharted switching the res on ps4 and couldn't find a sure difference either.
Either way forcing y20 always looked damn good so I will do it just to be safe but I truly believe auto at y22 is giving me the same picture results.
One thing for sure is 100% medium dynamic contrast on hdr gaming and movies now that I've actually got some time to check hdr out thoroughly
If there is a difference I can't tell. I kept thinking I was seeing a better contrast of light and darks when I forced y20 but the fact that sat there and switched for a solid hour and still am not sure...
I'm going to go ahead and say it was placebo effect. I really want to believe I'm seeing something better but I just can't trust I'm not tricking myself. Either way y20 looks brilliant.
That said I will probably just set it to y20 anyways bc it obviously didn't hurt anything.
I would say you are probably safe with auto/auto though if you don't want to spend time forcing it.
Edit:spent 20 minutes in uncharted switching the res on ps4 and couldn't find a sure difference either.
Either way forcing y20 always looked damn good so I will do it just to be safe but I truly believe auto at y22 is giving me the same picture results.
One thing for sure is 100% medium dynamic contrast on hdr gaming and movies now that I've actually got some time to check hdr out thoroughly
Noboru Wataya
Banned
I would put contrast to 100 and have it on warm 2 but other than that this is exactly how I have set mine up.
Couple of things I have learned.
With HDR on it is almost vital that you use dynamic contrast, otherwise you get a dim flat image. Medium is about where I have it.
For PC mode sharpness at 50 is how it should be. Any more than that the TV adds the processing and artifacts, any less than 50 and the TV applies a blur filter.
ShadowRunner
Member
Are people forcing 4:2:0 on this set? Input lag is almost doubled at 4:4:4 to 37ms, wondering if it is worth it.
Not that im particularly lag sensitive, i have been playing non-competetive games outside of game mode with Custom motion flow set to 10 for De-Blur and 0 for De-Judder, i imagine this brings my lag number to over 100ms and cant say ive had much of an issue. With De-blur games look fantastic however, big difference in the COD campaign, havent tried with 30fps games though.
Anyone know how De-Blur works? Is it interpolating frames? Doesnt seem like it as i havent noticed any smoothing out or soap opera effect, just a massive boost to motion resolution.
Not that im particularly lag sensitive, i have been playing non-competetive games outside of game mode with Custom motion flow set to 10 for De-Blur and 0 for De-Judder, i imagine this brings my lag number to over 100ms and cant say ive had much of an issue. With De-blur games look fantastic however, big difference in the COD campaign, havent tried with 30fps games though.
Anyone know how De-Blur works? Is it interpolating frames? Doesnt seem like it as i havent noticed any smoothing out or soap opera effect, just a massive boost to motion resolution.