Aces&Eights
Member
Holy hell Zip Extractor on Google Onedrive is taking forever to unzip the file. I downloaded it here at work to OneDrive so when I get home I can throw it on my flash drive unzipped but this is taking fooooreeeevvver.
does anyone recommend any settings to use in game mode (PS4) without using the Warm 2 filter?
I've tried calibrating the TV using the recommended settings in this thread, but I feel with the Warm 2 setting, the image looks way too dark and and whites having a very strong yellow tinge to it isn't very attractive.
If mine was ever split like that, I never noticed. I do know mine is like yours is now. HDR on, same settings. Since you mention it, that would be ideal, yeah.So the strangest thing started happening. My TV has always seemed to have different settings for HDR and non-HDR content, and would switch between them automatically depending on the source (playing a non-HDR game like Bloodborne would show different Picture Settings than when playing an HDR game like Ratchet and Clank, for example). This was great as I could fine tune my settings for both HDR and non-HDR content separately and get great results for both. But all of a sudden, as of today there just seems to be one set of a settings for both, no automatic switching. Anyone know what could be up with this?
Maybe play with the "Current Source/All Sources" setting and see if that has any effect for it? No idea.
Have you tried this?http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=227125650&postcount=4157
Worked beautifully for me.
That's the exact guide I used, and it leaves everything looking very yellow
That's fucked up. They really won't replace it?Cross Post from the TV Thread
Mid early December my parents bought a Samsung KS8000 with my assistance using EPP. I coaxed my parents to get the KS8000 over the cheaper Samsung TV. The company delivering it was a freight service I've never heard of called AGS, Associated Global Systems. It shipped well before Christmas, but still hadn't been delivered by January. At one point it was sitting in one area for more than a week. My dad kept calling the company trying to track down the TV. It was like they didn't want to deliver it. Several calls several weeks later they finally got the TV delivered.
The TV box had a huge gaping hole on the bottom. They opened the box and there is a huge crack going through the whole TV.
My dad called Samsung and Samsung claims they can't give them the same price for the TV ($1079 + Tax) and they'll have to order the TV for full price and get a refund some time later.
I'm livid.
That's fucked up. They really won't replace it?
Thinking of getting a 4K TV. Should I jump in now? When do the new models usually come out?
Do you have anything like a receiver in between?
After a busy day of work, I came back home and when I glanced at my TV I saw something that looked like a smudge. I tried cleaning it with the provided micro fiber cloth but then I noticed it wasn't going away. Upon close inspection, I realized it wasn't actually a smudge from finger print. I don't know what it is. Here is a pic.
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Trust me guys it's not a smudge or a crack. I called Samsung and they ask me to send pics. Should I send them this pic?
Looks like a booger.
EDIT: On a more serious note does it appear to be on the inside or outside of the screen?
That's fucked up. They really won't replace it?
Nah. Just an HDMI running straight from my PC to the TV.
It's a total crapshoot and only Samsung knows why. If you want to be on the most current firmware you're going to have to use USB. The built-in network updater is for casuals who will probably leave it on auto anyway.
does anyone recommend any settings to use in game mode (PS4) without using the Warm 2 filter?
I've tried calibrating the TV using the recommended settings in this thread, but I feel with the Warm 2 setting, the image looks way too dark and and whites having a very strong yellow tinge to it isn't very attractive.
I figure its a slow rollout in case they accidentally brick TVs. They let early adopters get in on it via USB updates right away, and then they probably control which regions to send the OTA update to.
Nah. Just an HDMI running straight from my PC to the TV.
So sometimes my TV will change inputs out of the blue. Like yesterday, i was playing on xbox and it switched to my ps4 input, and my ps4 was off....
This year's models were just revealed at CES. Probably a few months until they start shipping and then a few more for reviews and good availability. Based on the info released the new models should offer more brightness (good for HDR) and better viewing angles. Personally I have no complaints about either on my KS7005 (Nordic KS8000).
The PS4 is capable of sending an HDMI signal out to TVs and Receivers that basically says "Switch to my input". None of my other devices do this. You can turn this off to see if it corrects the issue: On your PS4, go to (Settings) > [System], and then uncheck the checkbox for [Enable HDMI Device Link].
How often do you guys find that you have to hold the power button down on the remote a bit to restart everything in order to get certain apps working?
Really annoying how often I have to do this.
How often do you guys find that you have to hold the power button down on the remote a bit to restart everything in order to get certain apps working?
Really annoying how often I have to do this.
I've got an important question that I hope multiple people here can give me input on
I'm interested in an OLED TV set, but I'm too scared of potential IR issues based on my experience with my Panasonic Plasma (55UT50) and I use this display as computer monitor as well for my home entertainment set up.
I may go for the 2016 version of the 8000 if it's on sale this year
My question:
Is there any one who has has moved from one a Panasonic set similar to mine (known for having outstanding picture quality, even at the mid range models) to a KS8000?
I know the color will be great, but were you fine with the black levels and level of detail in comparison?
Thanks.
Just get the OLED, it'll be fine brother! You won't regret it.
Ughhh. My issue with pricing. I have to go at least 65 inches. OLEDs at that size have not dropped past $2K and that's just too much for me... a $500 premium (if it does hit $2K which is an absolute best case scenario). I feel like I will have to wait another 2-3 years until I see the type of pricing I would like to see on OLED TVs ($1600 - $2000 for 65 inch)
Yeah, hanging or flat out crashing.Never so far, been a month or so of heavy use too.
What are the apps doing to require a restart, hanging or crashing completely?
Yeah, double the price at this juncture is my issue. Not worth it to me, personally. OLED down the road a few years, though: Cheaper, HDMI 2.1, better peak brightness? I'm in.
Hope this isn't an inappropriate bump, but just saw this on the Samsung forum - I get emails when the red/blue separation thread is updated.
"[A Samsung mod said] If it is only happening in game mode, Samsung considers that normal. Game has a tendency to "shake" the screen a bit which causes this temporary shift or separation of colors. If it is also happening in Netflix or other sources, then there may be something else at fault."
Anyone know if they're spinning a line?
https://us.community.samsung.com/t5...color-separation-in-Game-Mode/m-p/59619#M7497
So just to clarify, as this seems to be the most active place:
There are no component inputs on this set, right? I'd need to get a converter to use my PS2 on this TV?
So just to clarify, as this seems to be the most active place:
There are no component inputs on this set, right? I'd need to get a converter to use my PS2 on this TV?
I've got an important question that I hope multiple people here can give me input on
I'm interested in an OLED TV set, but I'm too scared of potential IR issues based on my experience with my Panasonic Plasma (55UT50) and I use this display as computer monitor as well for my home entertainment set up.
I may go for the 2016 version of the 8000 if it's on sale this year
My question:
Is there any one who has has moved from one a Panasonic set similar to mine (known for having outstanding picture quality, even at the mid range models) to a KS8000?
I know the color will be great, but were you fine with the black levels and level of detail in comparison?
Thanks.
Something is going wrong. HDR+ isn't real HDR, and it real HDR should work.I just got a KS800 today. I'm sure this been answered in this thread, but there's a lot to read through!
I had Game Mode on and when that was selected, the PS4 said that the TV did not support HDR. When I turn HDR+ Mode on, the PS4 says that HDR is supported.
So... is there a way to have Game Mode enabled and have HDR ability at the same time? Is one or the other bad? I've read that HDR+ Mode shouldn't be enabled... but then the PS4 doesn't recognize that capability.
I just got a KS800 today. I'm sure this been answered in this thread, but there's a lot to read through!
I had Game Mode on and when that was selected, the PS4 said that the TV did not support HDR. When I turn HDR+ Mode on, the PS4 says that HDR is supported.
So... is there a way to have Game Mode enabled and have HDR ability at the same time? Is one or the other bad? I've read that HDR+ Mode shouldn't be enabled... but then the PS4 doesn't recognize that capability.
I think HDR+ mode is to fake hdr on non-hdr content, so leave it off and use game mode and your tv will recognize it automatically.I just got a KS800 today. I'm sure this been answered in this thread, but there's a lot to read through!
I had Game Mode on and when that was selected, the PS4 said that the TV did not support HDR. When I turn HDR+ Mode on, the PS4 says that HDR is supported.
So... is there a way to have Game Mode enabled and have HDR ability at the same time? Is one or the other bad? I've read that HDR+ Mode shouldn't be enabled... but then the PS4 doesn't recognize that capability.