• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

Plinko

Wildcard berths that can't beat teams without a winning record should have homefield advantage
My Netflix app all of a sudden will not let me control it.
 

Madness

Member
Anyone figure out how to remove the 'press return to go back' from the youtube app when you view things. I hate how it is a bright white and in the corner when I view things in the app.
 
Anyone figure out how to remove the 'press return to go back' from the youtube app when you view things. I hate how it is a bright white and in the corner when I view things in the app.

This is a bug and it usually occurs in tandem with the "Everything in a list of videos is all squashed on the left until I press right" bug. Force closing the app by holding the back button down should fix it until it happens again.

My Netflix app all of a sudden will not let me control it.

Can you force-close Netflix by holding the back button?
 
So the strangest thing started happening. My TV has always seemed to have different settings for HDR and non-HDR content, and would switch between them automatically depending on the source (playing a non-HDR game like Bloodborne would show different Picture Settings than when playing an HDR game like Ratchet and Clank, for example). This was great as I could fine tune my settings for both HDR and non-HDR content separately and get great results for both. But all of a sudden, as of today there just seems to be one set of a settings for both, no automatic switching. Anyone know what could be up with this?
 
So the strangest thing started happening. My TV has always seemed to have different settings for HDR and non-HDR content, and would switch between them automatically depending on the source (playing a non-HDR game like Bloodborne would show different Picture Settings than when playing an HDR game like Ratchet and Clank, for example). This was great as I could fine tune my settings for both HDR and non-HDR content separately and get great results for both. But all of a sudden, as of today there just seems to be one set of a settings for both, no automatic switching. Anyone know what could be up with this?

If mine was ever split like that, I never noticed. I do know mine is like yours is now. HDR on, same settings. Since you mention it, that would be ideal, yeah.

Maybe play with the "Current Source/All Sources" setting and see if that has any effect for it? No idea.
 

Plinko

Wildcard berths that can't beat teams without a winning record should have homefield advantage
This is a bug and it usually occurs in tandem with the "Everything in a list of videos is all squashed on the left until I press right" bug. Force closing the app by holding the back button down should fix it until it happens again.



Can you force-close Netflix by holding the back button?

I can, but nothing else. It is kind of bizarre.
 

MizzouRah

Member
This is not a problem with the TV. I run 1440p 60hz with no issues. It's probably tje receiver.

Edit: run hdmi from mobo to reciever for souns, gpu hdmi straight to the one connect box for picture.

You, good sir, are the man!

I'm not sure which component was exactly causing the hiccup in my chain of connections and lengthy HDMI cables, but I've got all the supported resolutions working now, including YCbCr4:4:4 and 1440p at 60hz (which is a bit of a blurry disappointment when scaling to 4k).

Using an EVGA GTX 1080 Classified, I'm running a 25' HDMI cable plugged directly into the gpu (this is different in two ways from my original setup when I had the problem: different cable tested and not using an extension dongle which I also use on the Rift) for video direct into the TV. Then, using a DP to HDMI converter, I have a separate HDMI running to the receiver for surround sound.

One issue -- in Nvidia Control Panel I'm limited to 8 bpc for output color depth, but I'll take it for the time being.
 

VicViper

Member
So the strangest thing started happening. My TV has always seemed to have different settings for HDR and non-HDR content, and would switch between them automatically depending on the source (playing a non-HDR game like Bloodborne would show different Picture Settings than when playing an HDR game like Ratchet and Clank, for example). This was great as I could fine tune my settings for both HDR and non-HDR content separately and get great results for both. But all of a sudden, as of today there just seems to be one set of a settings for both, no automatic switching. Anyone know what could be up with this?

That's "normal" behaviour if you're in game mode. Many users say it's a bug, but I believe it's just an oversight by Samsung due to the limitations of their crappy picture settings structure.
 

Wollan

Member
From Rtings.com :
" 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR Show Help : 37.6 ms
What it is: Lowest input lag possible on TV when displaying 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 with HDR enabled at 8 bit"


Does anyone know what the lag is with 10bit HDR?
k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 with 10bit HDR?
 

mario_O

Member
From Rtings.com :
" 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR Show Help : 37.6 ms
What it is: Lowest input lag possible on TV when displaying 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 with HDR enabled at 8 bit"


Does anyone know what the lag is with 10bit HDR?
k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 with 10bit HDR?

Samsung's SUHD and UHD TV's support 10 bit with 4:2:2 chroma. I think it's a bandwidth limitation of HDMI 2.0. But I don't think it really matters, there's no content beyond that. 4K Blu Rays are 4:2:0

uagShuz.jpg
 

Wollan

Member
Samsung's SUHD and UHD TV's support 10 bit with 4:2:2 chroma. I think it's a bandwidth limitation of HDMI 2.0. But I don't think it really matters, there's no content beyond that. 4K Blu Rays are 4:2:0
That's very disappointing if true.
4:4:4 Chroma is revelatory for videogame graphics (which I have been exposed to since my 2013 Sony Bravia purchase). Movies are fine with 4:2:2 but sharp computer graphics are greatly enhanced by 4:4:4.
What to do: Wait until 2018/19 for HDMI 2.1 or go ahead with planned intermediate step of KS8000...
 
new firmware still doesnt fix the game mode HDR backlight glitch.

Arghhh I had hoped it would. It's starting to annoy me to have to adjust the backlight everytime I play an HDR game to the point I've decided not to play any HDR supported games until they patch this.
 

Simbo

Neo Member
new firmware still doesnt fix the game mode HDR backlight glitch.

I dont think it is a glitch.

The firmware update that introduced HDR settings in game mode was released in September I believe. There have been multiple firmware updates since then and it hasn't been addressed.

I'm starting to think it is a limitation of the TV architecture and isn't possible.
 

Psykotik

Member
Arghhh I had hoped it would. It's starting to annoy me to have to adjust the backlight everytime I play an HDR game to the point I've decided not to play any HDR supported games until they patch this.

certainly a bummer. makes me almost want to just play using movie mode. but that input lag though.

is it really like 110ms+ outside of game mode?
 

CrayToes

Member
Grrrrr, can't get 1440p to work with this TV. Whenever I try and output a PC game at 1440p it doesn't fit the screen. It looks zoomed in and out of focus. Anyone know why?
 

mario_O

Member
That's very disappointing if true.
4:4:4 Chroma is revelatory for videogame graphics (which I have been exposed to since my 2013 Sony Bravia purchase). Movies are fine with 4:2:2 but sharp computer graphics are greatly enhanced by 4:4:4.
What to do: Wait until 2018/19 for HDMI 2.1 or go ahead with planned intermediate step of KS8000...

As far as I know all games use 8 bit color. I think there's only a few exceptions, like Alien Isolation.
 
certainly a bummer. makes me almost want to just play using movie mode. but that input lag though.

is it really like 110ms+ outside of game mode?

Not sure but it's hella high and you can definitely feel it while playing. I'd say it's not worth it playing on movie mode.
 

N1tr0sOx1d3

Given another chance
Does the delay also occur when using the optical audio out from the TV?

Please forgive my technical understanding, but isn't an optical cable a step backwards due to bandwidth limitations thus to get true 5.1 surround we need DD, PCM or DTS over HDMI?

As it happens I have a workaround in the form of DTS out from PS4 & Bitstream/DTS selected on TV. With these settings there is no lag.

I don't have an optical cable to try for you folks. But Bitstream/DD on TV introduces 100ms~ lag.
 

Mideon

Member
I dont think it is a glitch.

The firmware update that introduced HDR settings in game mode was released in September I believe. There have been multiple firmware updates since then and it hasn't been addressed.

I'm starting to think it is a limitation of the TV architecture and isn't possible.
It can't be I can manually change the settings needed so how can it be a limitation? It just needs to switch automatically like non game mode
 

N1tr0sOx1d3

Given another chance
Not sure but it's hella high and you can definitely feel it while playing. I'd say it's not worth it playing on movie mode.

This. Looks fantastic but the lag is too much. Maybe get away with a slow paced SP. But you cant seriously consider this option for competitive multiplayer.
 

VicViper

Member
Please forgive my technical understanding, but isn't an optical cable a step backwards due to bandwidth limitations thus to get true 5.1 surround we need DD, PCM or DTS over HDMI?

That is correct. However my receiver (Sony DN-860) does not support HDR pass-through via HDMI so I'm stuck with either HDMI ARC or optical from the TV to my receiver. Both are limited to either 2.0 channel PCM (uncompressed) or 5.1 channel bitstream DD/DTS (compressed).

My speaker setup is just stereo, so I'm happy using 2.0 PCM.

I don't have an optical cable to try for you folks. But Bitstream/DD on TV introduces 100ms~ lag.

Will test this on my setup and share the results. 100ms should be noticable, but I can't hear any delay in game mode using 2.0 PCM via optical audio. Will try DD/DTS and see if there's a difference.
 

Simbo

Neo Member
It can't be I can manually change the settings needed so how can it be a limitation? It just needs to switch automatically like non game mode

Dont forget that Game Mode is under the separate 'Special Viewing Modes' section in the menu. It could be that the way the memory is setup that they can't save individual settings for SDR and HDR for this mode.

Or it could be that because Game Mode switches off as many functions as possible to achieve the lowest input lag the internal setting that saves HDR settings is switched off too.
 

N1tr0sOx1d3

Given another chance
That is correct. However my receiver (Sony DN-860) does not support HDR pass-through via HDMI so I'm stuck with either HDMI ARC or optical from the TV to my receiver. Both are limited to either 2.0 channel PCM (uncompressed) or 5.1 channel bitstream DD/DTS (compressed).

My speaker setup is just stereo, so I'm happy using 2.0 PCM.



Will test this on my setup and share the results. 100ms should be noticable, but I can't hear any delay in game mode using 2.0 PCM via optical audio. Will try DD/DTS and see if there's a difference.

I didn't perceive (probably because I wasn't looking for it) audio lag until I watched Angry Joe 2016 Greatest games on PS4 native Youtube app.

The sync between lip movement and audio was good amount off.

My receiver too doesn't allow HDR to pass-through so my PS4 is hooked up directly to the TV and audio through ARC goes directly to receiver.

Its worth mentioning here that the lag is NOT coming from the audio leaving the TV to the receiver. I know this because the Lag is present on the TV speakers when you take the receiver out of the loop.

Thankfully moving to DTS signal cured this. Dolby Digital appears to be borked atm in game mode. When game mode is OFF there is no delay with DD, but then you have controller lag :/

Since I can use DTS its not so much as an issue for me, but I can certainly understand how this will affect some users.
 

laxu

Member
Dont forget that Game Mode is under the separate 'Special Viewing Modes' section in the menu. It could be that the way the memory is setup that they can't save individual settings for SDR and HDR for this mode.

Or it could be that because Game Mode switches off as many functions as possible to achieve the lowest input lag the internal setting that saves HDR settings is switched off too.

It would make no sense to work like that. It is most likely just an oversight and crappy programming, as pretty much all TVs tend to have when it comes to UI and settings.
 
Grrrrr, can't get 1440p to work with this TV. Whenever I try and output a PC game at 1440p it doesn't fit the screen. It looks zoomed in and out of focus. Anyone know why?

What kind of card do you have? What app/game are you trying this in? I have a GTX970 and 1440p works fine and fills the screen. In fact the TV has handled most resolutions I've thrown at it including lower stuff like 640x480.
 

Aces&Eights

Member
So my tv just stopped detecting my usb flash stick I have in the little switch thingy. Read it find for last couple weeks. Any advice?
 

CrayToes

Member
What kind of card do you have? What app/game are you trying this in? I have a GTX970 and 1440p works fine and fills the screen. In fact the TV has handled most resolutions I've thrown at it including lower stuff like 640x480.

I have the same card. I've tried with GTA V and The Witcher 3 and it just doesn't seem to fit.
 
4:4:4 Chroma is revelatory for videogame graphics (which I have been exposed to since my 2013 Sony Bravia purchase). Movies are fine with 4:2:2 but sharp computer graphics are greatly enhanced by 4:4:4.

Eh, I agree that 4:4:4 while using the TV as a computer monitor is extremely helpful. It enhances clarity and usability when performing desktop tasks or browsing the web, etc. So when I'm doing that stuff I put the TV into "PC mode". However, for actual PC gaming or video watching from a normal seating difference I don't find 4:4:4 to be much of a difference at all so I opt for regular game mode due to the lower lag. I suppose in some games it might make a difference but in a first-person game or something like that I don't really notice.
 

Link_enfant

Member
For some reason, I'm quite optimistic about the 1160 update resolving my color space problem on PS4 Pro.
Just to be sure, do you guys notice a slight or a huge difference between color space auto and native on this console? (All settings on Auto on the Pro, Game mode On)
 
The 1160 update is STILL not appearing as an update on my TV..how long does it take for that to happen..I would use my USB stick but would prefer just downloading it the regular way, through firmware updates on the TV itself
 

laxu

Member
The 1160 update is STILL not appearing as an update on my TV..how long does it take for that to happen..I would use my USB stick but would prefer just downloading it the regular way, through firmware updates on the TV itself

Just update via USB. The process is basically the same, only you select it to find the file from your USB drive.
 
Just update via USB. The process is basically the same, only you select it to find the file from your USB drive.

Yeah I just dont want to mess it up..isnt it weird how its not already available through the TV..how long does it usually take to appear..otherwise I will just do it via USB
 
Yeah I just dont want to mess it up..isnt it weird how its not already available through the TV..how long does it usually take to appear..otherwise I will just do it via USB

It's a total crapshoot and only Samsung knows why. If you want to be on the most current firmware you're going to have to use USB. The built-in network updater is for casuals who will probably leave it on auto anyway.
 
anyone else's cutting to black for a few seconds? using PS4 pro and the provided HDMI
cable. Audio stays but screen turns black for a few seconds then comes back

edit: i realise i asked this already. oops. I'm still having the problem though. Starting to think its a bug when playing HDR games content in 4k.
 
It's a total crapshoot and only Samsung knows why. If you want to be on the most current firmware you're going to have to use USB. The built-in network updater is for casuals who will probably leave it on auto anyway.

I went ahead and downloaded the firmware for the KS8000 series TV and I already downloaded it to the USB STICK..so now I Just connect the USB stick to my oneconnect drive and do a search on the TV for firmware updates and it will install the firmware? Do I need to turn the TV off before connecting the stick or is that not necessary..Thanks
 
I would totally update my firmware via USB if these updates provided any meaningful improvements, or maybe if they provided some kind of patch notes. As it is I just see no reason to update, and rarely see any change when I do.
 
I went ahead and downloaded the firmware for the KS8000 series TV and I already downloaded it to the USB STICK..so now I Just connect the USB stick to my oneconnect drive and do a search on the TV for firmware updates and it will install the firmware? Do I need to turn the TV off before connecting the stick or is that not necessary..Thanks

There's no need to turn off the TV. I just use the USB port directly on the back of the TV, but I'm sure the one on the OneConnect box works as well. Once it's plugged in you'll probably be prompted at the top of the screen to view the contents but you can cancel out of that and then go to the firmware update option. It will still search online but afterwards it will ask if you want to search on the USB device. Answer yes and follow the directions.

You said you put the contents of the ZIP on your USB. Just to make sure you did it right, this would have resulted in a folder called T-JZMAKUC in the root of your USB drive (If you are US).
 
There's no need to turn off the TV. I just use the USB port directly on the back of the TV, but I'm sure the one on the OneConnect box works as well. Once it's plugged in you'll probably be prompted at the top of the screen to view the contents but you can cancel out of that and then go to the firmware update option. It will still search online but afterwards it will ask if you want to search on the USB device. Answer yes and follow the directions.

You said you put the contents of the ZIP on your USB. Just to make sure you did it right, this would have resulted in a folder called T-JZMAKUC in the root of your USB drive (If you are US).

Yes that is correct..and I unzipped it directly into the USB stick and inside of that it says image and inside that it has the update..Sounds good will do it in a few minutes, wish that they would update it through the TV but oh well as long as this works then its all good

Edit: All done, well that was super easy :)
 
Top Bottom