Anyone figure out how to remove the 'press return to go back' from the youtube app when you view things. I hate how it is a bright white and in the corner when I view things in the app.
My Netflix app all of a sudden will not let me control it.
So the strangest thing started happening. My TV has always seemed to have different settings for HDR and non-HDR content, and would switch between them automatically depending on the source (playing a non-HDR game like Bloodborne would show different Picture Settings than when playing an HDR game like Ratchet and Clank, for example). This was great as I could fine tune my settings for both HDR and non-HDR content separately and get great results for both. But all of a sudden, as of today there just seems to be one set of a settings for both, no automatic switching. Anyone know what could be up with this?
This is a bug and it usually occurs in tandem with the "Everything in a list of videos is all squashed on the left until I press right" bug. Force closing the app by holding the back button down should fix it until it happens again.
Can you force-close Netflix by holding the back button?
This is not a problem with the TV. I run 1440p 60hz with no issues. It's probably tje receiver.
Edit: run hdmi from mobo to reciever for souns, gpu hdmi straight to the one connect box for picture.
So the strangest thing started happening. My TV has always seemed to have different settings for HDR and non-HDR content, and would switch between them automatically depending on the source (playing a non-HDR game like Bloodborne would show different Picture Settings than when playing an HDR game like Ratchet and Clank, for example). This was great as I could fine tune my settings for both HDR and non-HDR content separately and get great results for both. But all of a sudden, as of today there just seems to be one set of a settings for both, no automatic switching. Anyone know what could be up with this?
1160 is up on the European Samsung websites.
From Rtings.com :
" 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR Show Help : 37.6 ms
What it is: Lowest input lag possible on TV when displaying 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 with HDR enabled at 8 bit"
Does anyone know what the lag is with 10bit HDR?
k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 with 10bit HDR?
1160 is up on the European Samsung websites.
That's very disappointing if true.Samsung's SUHD and UHD TV's support 10 bit with 4:2:2 chroma. I think it's a bandwidth limitation of HDMI 2.0. But I don't think it really matters, there's no content beyond that. 4K Blu Rays are 4:2:0
new firmware still doesnt fix the game mode HDR backlight glitch.
new firmware still doesnt fix the game mode HDR backlight glitch.
Arghhh I had hoped it would. It's starting to annoy me to have to adjust the backlight everytime I play an HDR game to the point I've decided not to play any HDR supported games until they patch this.
That's very disappointing if true.
4:4:4 Chroma is revelatory for videogame graphics (which I have been exposed to since my 2013 Sony Bravia purchase). Movies are fine with 4:2:2 but sharp computer graphics are greatly enhanced by 4:4:4.
What to do: Wait until 2018/19 for HDMI 2.1 or go ahead with planned intermediate step of KS8000...
certainly a bummer. makes me almost want to just play using movie mode. but that input lag though.
is it really like 110ms+ outside of game mode?
Grrrrr, can't get 1440p to work with this TV. Whenever I try and output a PC game at 1440p it doesn't fit the screen. It looks zoomed in and out of focus. Anyone know why?
Does the delay also occur when using the optical audio out from the TV?
It can't be I can manually change the settings needed so how can it be a limitation? It just needs to switch automatically like non game modeI dont think it is a glitch.
The firmware update that introduced HDR settings in game mode was released in September I believe. There have been multiple firmware updates since then and it hasn't been addressed.
I'm starting to think it is a limitation of the TV architecture and isn't possible.
Not sure but it's hella high and you can definitely feel it while playing. I'd say it's not worth it playing on movie mode.
We just need to face facts this TV will be obsolete very soon. Shame really.This. Looks fantastic but the lag is too much. Maybe get away with a slow paced SP. But you cant seriously consider this option for competitive multiplayer.
Please forgive my technical understanding, but isn't an optical cable a step backwards due to bandwidth limitations thus to get true 5.1 surround we need DD, PCM or DTS over HDMI?
I don't have an optical cable to try for you folks. But Bitstream/DD on TV introduces 100ms~ lag.
We just need to face facts this TV will be obsolete very soon. Shame really.
It can't be I can manually change the settings needed so how can it be a limitation? It just needs to switch automatically like non game mode
That is correct. However my receiver (Sony DN-860) does not support HDR pass-through via HDMI so I'm stuck with either HDMI ARC or optical from the TV to my receiver. Both are limited to either 2.0 channel PCM (uncompressed) or 5.1 channel bitstream DD/DTS (compressed).
My speaker setup is just stereo, so I'm happy using 2.0 PCM.
Will test this on my setup and share the results. 100ms should be noticable, but I can't hear any delay in game mode using 2.0 PCM via optical audio. Will try DD/DTS and see if there's a difference.
Dont forget that Game Mode is under the separate 'Special Viewing Modes' section in the menu. It could be that the way the memory is setup that they can't save individual settings for SDR and HDR for this mode.
Or it could be that because Game Mode switches off as many functions as possible to achieve the lowest input lag the internal setting that saves HDR settings is switched off too.
Grrrrr, can't get 1440p to work with this TV. Whenever I try and output a PC game at 1440p it doesn't fit the screen. It looks zoomed in and out of focus. Anyone know why?
What kind of card do you have? What app/game are you trying this in? I have a GTX970 and 1440p works fine and fills the screen. In fact the TV has handled most resolutions I've thrown at it including lower stuff like 640x480.
I have the same card. I've tried with GTA V and The Witcher 3 and it just doesn't seem to fit.
4:4:4 Chroma is revelatory for videogame graphics (which I have been exposed to since my 2013 Sony Bravia purchase). Movies are fine with 4:2:2 but sharp computer graphics are greatly enhanced by 4:4:4.
The 1160 firmware broke my Netflix app
Can't use the return and arrows keys to navigate anymore
It worked thx a lotTry this.
The 1160 update is STILL not appearing as an update on my TV..how long does it take for that to happen..I would use my USB stick but would prefer just downloading it the regular way, through firmware updates on the TV itself
Just update via USB. The process is basically the same, only you select it to find the file from your USB drive.
Yeah I just dont want to mess it up..isnt it weird how its not already available through the TV..how long does it usually take to appear..otherwise I will just do it via USB
It's a total crapshoot and only Samsung knows why. If you want to be on the most current firmware you're going to have to use USB. The built-in network updater is for casuals who will probably leave it on auto anyway.
I went ahead and downloaded the firmware for the KS8000 series TV and I already downloaded it to the USB STICK..so now I Just connect the USB stick to my oneconnect drive and do a search on the TV for firmware updates and it will install the firmware? Do I need to turn the TV off before connecting the stick or is that not necessary..Thanks
There's no need to turn off the TV. I just use the USB port directly on the back of the TV, but I'm sure the one on the OneConnect box works as well. Once it's plugged in you'll probably be prompted at the top of the screen to view the contents but you can cancel out of that and then go to the firmware update option. It will still search online but afterwards it will ask if you want to search on the USB device. Answer yes and follow the directions.
You said you put the contents of the ZIP on your USB. Just to make sure you did it right, this would have resulted in a folder called T-JZMAKUC in the root of your USB drive (If you are US).