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NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread
- Thread starter MarkMan
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viewtiful_dru
Member
memecomplex said:
The spring on the VSHG could have been worn in more (asumming the HRAP is brand new).
NameGenerated
Who paid you to grab Dr. Pavel?
That's what I tried but they wouldn't let me. Did you use Paypal?gokieks said:
Also my Amazon order for my TE stick just shipped, 10 days ahead of time.
Well, after 3 weeks of waiting, I canceled my order with LizardLick. It was going to take around two more weeks to ship, it was too much time. Nice thing is that I got an answer really quick about my cancellation and an e-mail from PayPal with the refund.
I will buy from them in the future when all this SFIV craze slows down.
I will buy from them in the future when all this SFIV craze slows down.
sixteen-bit
Member
uh MarkMan...
My TE (360) stopped working. I have used it only twice and it's bone stock, no tampering.
WTF....
My TE (360) stopped working. I have used it only twice and it's bone stock, no tampering.
WTF....
sixteen-bit
Member
Yep, turbo faintly flickers but the player indicator light doesn't come on. I know it's not the USB port on the system, because other sticks work.Akim said:
Freshmaker
I am Korean.
Is it usual for a HRAP EX to flake out when you swap buttons? (Just put in new Seimitsu buttons.) I couldn't get the stick to turn the 360 on after I closed it up. Powering on the 360 seemed to clear up whatever issues were going on, but it still seems weird that the stick would flake out in the first place.
memecomplex
Member
viewtiful_dru said:
Yes the HRAP3 is brand new, good point.
Freshmaker
I am Korean.
I got an email on Saturday saying they'd shipped my stuff. Got it Tuesday. (My order was in the 1700's tho.)Davidion said:
Yes Boss! said:
Yes, all cthulhu board comes with a printout guide to help you solder. Every point on the board is clearly marked as well as the points on the TE stick. Very easy to do if you have some basic soldering skills. Since your going from ps3 TE to xbox360, you would need a 360 cg board instead of a cthulhu.
DaCocoBrova
Finally bought a new PSP, but then pushed the demon onto someone else. Jesus.
DaCocoBrova said:
Quick question:
Do I remove/desolder the rumble motors from the PCB or leave it attached?
Well the TE stick I ordered on December 28th via Amazon was finally delivered to my cousins in Boston so he's gonna overnight it to me and I should finally have the bloody thing.
My 3 other pre orders from various ebgames in Montreal were delayed.. AGAIN! until the end of the month, I haven't even seen a fightpad in stores either.
MarkMan where's the love for Canada?
My 3 other pre orders from various ebgames in Montreal were delayed.. AGAIN! until the end of the month, I haven't even seen a fightpad in stores either.
MarkMan where's the love for Canada?
Psychotext
Member
Woohoo:
DaCocoBrova
Finally bought a new PSP, but then pushed the demon onto someone else. Jesus.
Spasm said:
Ruh-oh!
DanDeschain
Member
I am interested in dual modding my PS3 hori FS3. Is this a fairly simple procedure? I have some wire and a 360 pcb. What else would I need besides a soldering iron?
sixteen-bit
Member
I spoke with a rep this morning and they're sending me postage to ship the stick back to them for repairs. It seems to have happened to two others at SRK, so I don't think it's isolated. Please keep us informed.MarkMan said:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=178793
Been a good 3 weeks of having the TE stick, its been been fine until recently with getting this strange movement feeling, when moving the stick left and right, it gets stuck after long period of playing but mainly just messes my charge moves up. When you press the stick all the way to the left or right, you hit the end, but if you apply a bit more pressure it like goes in deep even more.
Is this the documented Joystick getting stuck/caught, washer problem?
Is this the documented Joystick getting stuck/caught, washer problem?
I was at my cousins house last night and he owns the HRAP3 and MadCatz TE. Although I didn't feel the TE was worth $150, I do now. I can't really explain it, but it feels better and it's easier for me to control my character with the TE.
HRAP3 = A
TE = A+
Btw, I own a HRAP3 with Sanwa buttons and I still prefer the TE over it.
I'm going to purchase a SE and mod it with Seimitsu parts soon. Hopefully the Seimitsu SE will feel better than the HRAP3/TE to me, otherwise I'd waste $100+.
HRAP3 = A
TE = A+
Btw, I own a HRAP3 with Sanwa buttons and I still prefer the TE over it.
I'm going to purchase a SE and mod it with Seimitsu parts soon. Hopefully the Seimitsu SE will feel better than the HRAP3/TE to me, otherwise I'd waste $100+.
sixteen-bit
Member
MarkMan said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOb_QPuEquI
the sequel
3:10 on is the funniest shit ever.
BigJonsson
Member
ROFL @ that video
NameGenerated
Who paid you to grab Dr. Pavel?
Received my TE stick from Amazon today, it's really fucking nice. The buttons are so responsive and miles ahead of those junk in the SE stick. Overall it's so nice that I don't feel like I should have it since I'm not that great at the game. :lol
NameGenerated
Who paid you to grab Dr. Pavel?
No, I'm getting rid of the Capcom store one I have coming. I ordered 2 to make sure I got at least 1Baron said:
donkey show
Member
While waiting on the wifey to work on my art for my stick, I grabbed a sharpie and took matters into my own hands for a temp.
Baron
Member
I finished up the rewiring of my first Hori Wii stick. I modded this stick about 2 months ago - it was my first stick mod and I was happy with it at the time, but after doing a second one, my skills had progressed so much that the first looked positively amateurish, so I decided to re-do it. Also, I was bored. It's not completely finished yet, as you can see, I am going to put green Sanwa button plungers in the white button "rims", but all shops have stopped taking orders for now and it has to be put on hold until they accept them again. -_-
I need to place a quartet of rubber feet-stoppers on the bottom plate, the screw heads protrude and will scratch whatever surface it is set upon. Not a big deal, as I use these smaller Hori sticks as lap sticks, but all the same it will be done. I also need to place some plastic washers in between the plate and the screw posts. That will be done this weekend.
I cut and installed a new piece of lami-flex plexiglass to fit on the bottom in place of the original metal plate to both show off the wiring work and also to solve the problem of the PCB shorting out against the plate. This took forever. If you don't have the patience and all you have is a dremel tool like me, don't bother, it literally took 2 hours of sanding to get it where it fit properly.
And, for the organized amongst you, a bonus shot of the parts cases I bought to organize my growing pantheon of stick and button parts. I like organization.
I need to place a quartet of rubber feet-stoppers on the bottom plate, the screw heads protrude and will scratch whatever surface it is set upon. Not a big deal, as I use these smaller Hori sticks as lap sticks, but all the same it will be done. I also need to place some plastic washers in between the plate and the screw posts. That will be done this weekend.
I cut and installed a new piece of lami-flex plexiglass to fit on the bottom in place of the original metal plate to both show off the wiring work and also to solve the problem of the PCB shorting out against the plate. This took forever. If you don't have the patience and all you have is a dremel tool like me, don't bother, it literally took 2 hours of sanding to get it where it fit properly.
And, for the organized amongst you, a bonus shot of the parts cases I bought to organize my growing pantheon of stick and button parts. I like organization.
Psychotext
Member
Nerd alert!
(Tidy my garage please?)
(Tidy my garage please?)
Baron said:I finished up the rewiring of my first Hori Wii stick. I modded this stick about 2 months ago - it was my first stick mod and I was happy with it at the time, but after doing a second one, my skills had progressed so much that the first looked positively amateurish, so I decided to re-do it. Also, I was bored. It's not completely finished yet, as you can see, I am going to put green Sanwa button plungers in the white button "rims", but all shops have stopped taking orders for now and it has to be put on hold until they accept them again. -_-
I need to place a quartet of rubber feet-stoppers on the bottom plate, the screw heads protrude and will scratch whatever surface it is set upon. Not a big deal, as I use these smaller Hori sticks as lap sticks, but all the same it will be done. I also need to place some plastic washers in between the plate and the screw posts. That will be done this weekend.
I cut and installed a new piece of lami-flex plexiglass to fit on the bottom in place of the original metal plate to both show off the wiring work and also to solve the problem of the PCB shorting out against the plate. This took forever. If you don't have the patience and all you have is a dremel tool like me, don't bother, it literally took 2 hours of sanding to get it where it fit properly.
And, for the organized amongst you, a bonus shot of the parts cases I bought to organize my growing pantheon of stick and button parts. I like organization.
Holy...now I know who to harass to sell me spare joystick parts if I ever need it. :lol
Nice work on the mod, btw. I doubt I'd have the patience to work a piece of plexiglass like that for a joystick mod.
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