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NES/Famicom Appreciation Thread

putermcgee

Junior Member
Just an update for you about Mandarake. I went to their Akihabara location yesterday, and was surprised. Of course, they have a ton more stuff than what they show online. Things were still expensive, but still a lot less than Super Potato, which is literally two minutes down the street. I still recommend going to Super Potato when you come, though. It's a trip.
 

Peltz

Member
Ehh. I could keep them at my parents house, but seems pointless to me. Not the first time I've ditched a collection. Give it a few years and I'll probably feel the itch again and dive back in. I'll still go around to garage sales as I enjoy hunting for stuff.

I also have a bunch of stuff already at my parents house that my siblings, nieces, and nephews all play when we're there. So, I'll still have a good amount of stuff even after clearing out the huge lot I have at home.

Not to be a vulcher... but where/how do you plan on selling your stuff?
 
iof65WDpdLJvF.jpg


World 7 and World 8 were actually much harder than I remember them. Especially World 8.


...actually World 8 is just as hard as I remember it being.

World 7 is fucking insane. The last time I played Mario 1 I got stuck there for like a couple hours. I don't know how (if?) I ever beat that game as a kid.
 
I won a CIB copy of Hogan's Alley on eBay.

me: Please ship game in a box so that it doesnt get crushed
seller: But i always use bubble mailers and its ok
me: Dont even think about it

Bubble mailers are always fine..

Finding a box that doesnt require a ton of packaging and padding and doesn't increase the weight past first class is a pain in the ass.

Unless you paid $30 or more for the cart a bubble mailer does just fine.

Edit: didn't realize you said CIB. Yes, a box is needed.
 

Peltz

Member
World 7 is fucking insane. The last time I played Mario 1 I got stuck there for like a couple hours. I don't know how (if?) I ever beat that game as a kid.

Just run past everything if beating it is your goal. The game becomes pretty easy when you just avoid everything.
 

Teknoman

Member
World 7 is fucking insane. The last time I played Mario 1 I got stuck there for like a couple hours. I don't know how (if?) I ever beat that game as a kid.

Just run past everything if beating it is your goal. The game becomes pretty easy when you just avoid everything.

The crazy part is that I know I beat the game as a kid, because I remember that stupid jump in world 8. But I think I might have skipped 7 since I used to read those Hidden Secrets for Nintendo paperback books alot (or at least flipped through em in the Waldenbooks at the mall) and just went for warp zones.
 

BocoDragon

or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
Every six months I ask this but I am so damn close to pulling the trigger: who would you recommend as someone to mod my AV Famicom for RGB? And do I have to send them the NES RGB kit, or do they have some on hand?

Alternatively, I'd consider modifying my toaster NES if I could also get the extra sound channel mod...
 
Bubble mailers are always fine..

Finding a box that doesnt require a ton of packaging and padding and doesn't increase the weight past first class is a pain in the ass.

Unless you paid $30 or more for the cart a bubble mailer does just fine.

Edit: didn't realize you said CIB. Yes, a box is needed.

I've shipped some cardboard box games in a bubble mailer, wrapped in lots of bubble wrap. This was because it was a CIB that sold for 6 or 7 dollars shipped, something insanely cheap. And to my understanding, it always arrives fine, and I've even asked a few people when I was testing out the theory of whether or not a bubble mailer could work for a cardboard box game.

But at that point, using a box makes sense. You did pay 30 bucks for it after all.
 

Peagles

Member
Every six months I ask this but I am so damn close to pulling the trigger: who would you recommend as someone to mod my AV Famicom for RGB? And do I have to send them the NES RGB kit, or do they have some on hand?

Alternatively, I'd consider modifying my toaster NES if I could also get the extra sound channel mod...

Where are you located? Regardless, I'd recommend baphomet.
 

putermcgee

Junior Member
Where are you located? Regardless, I'd recommend baphomet.
What about if I'm located in Japan?

Also, what's the easiest way to clean the cart clot on an AV Famicom? Almost all of my games give a purple screen when I first turn in on, and they take some love and finagling to get going properly.
 

Sixfortyfive

He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
Also, what's the easiest way to clean the cart clot on an AV Famicom? Almost all of my games give a purple screen when I first turn in on, and they take some love and finagling to get going properly.
What I do first on my consoles, after removing the case, is remove anything that might be clogging up the bottom of the cart slot itself. Straighten out a paper clip or something and try to pick anything out that may be resting in there. Then I take a can of compressed air and blow out anything too small to pick out. Then I wrap a clean cloth around an old credit card, soak it in >90% isopropyl alcohol (not quite enough for it to drip, but definitely enough to be "wet"), and insert it firmly into the cart slot, making sure that it has pressure against the pins. Repeat as many times as necessary with a clean section of the cloth until the cloth is no longer accumulating dirt.

The cartridges themselves should be cleaned similarly.
 
Well, I won a dinged up copy of Namcot Star Wars for about $5. I think that's all its worth.

I'm also considering getting Bio Senshi Dan or Magic John next.
 

Teknoman

Member
inC4koVApgP04.png


This should be a legit copy of Doki! Doki! Yuuenchi: Crazy Land Daisakusen right? Because i've been trying to get this forever.
 

putermcgee

Junior Member
What I do first on my consoles, after removing the case, is remove anything that might be clogging up the bottom of the cart slot itself. Straighten out a paper clip or something and try to pick anything out that may be resting in there. Then I take a can of compressed air and blow out anything too small to pick out. Then I wrap a clean cloth around an old credit card, soak it in >90% isopropyl alcohol (not quite enough for it to drip, but definitely enough to be "wet"), and insert it firmly into the cart slot, making sure that it has pressure against the pins. Repeat as many times as necessary with a clean section of the cloth until the cloth is no longer accumulating dirt.

The cartridges themselves should be cleaned similarly.
Thanks. I was thinking something like an alcohol cloth with either a regular car (to tight?) or something similar. I'll try a credit card.

I'm sure there's suitable postal services between Japan and America if there's no Japanese version of baphomet around :p
I'm not even sure what that is. I tried Google, but only got a bunch of French website results, talking about a DS game.
 

Peagles

Member
Thanks. I was thinking something like an alcohol cloth with either a regular car (to tight?) or something similar. I'll try a credit card.


I'm not even sure what that is. I tried Google, but only got a bunch of French website results, talking about a DS game.

Baphomet is a gaf user who does excellent mod work.
 

-KRS-

Member
Got some stuff in the mail yesterday. First, two US carts of Bionic Commando and Adventure Island. Secondly I got a CIB Bird Week for Famicom and a boxed Flipull, also for Famicom. I cleaned them but haven't actually tried them yet.

I got Bird Week since it's one of those quirky Japanese games that could only have been made during that particular era of experimentation in game design, before traditional console game genres had really been established. I really like those kinds of games for some reason. I guess it's the historical importance of them that make them interesting. It was also cheap so that helped.

Flipull was from the same seller, who had listed it for $3. I had been meaning to get it for a while and $3 for a boxed copy seemed like a good deal. The spine of the box is a little sunfaded but otherwise good. But I have to say I don't really like those Taito clamshell boxes. They're kinda flimsy compared to the Namco ones. And they're a different size compared to any other Famicom boxes as well, making organizing it in my NES/FC box drawer a bit of a pain. I guess I'll have to get more of them to even things out haha.

Thanks. I was thinking something like an alcohol cloth with either a regular car (to tight?) or something similar. I'll try a credit card.

A car will probably be too tight, yes. :p
 

D.Lo

Member
I'm almost 100% Japanese nowadays, with one exception...

My complete* CIB international Konami silver box NES collection. Some I've had for 20 years (Metal Gear I got NEW for $1, the SNES was out and NES stuff was on crazy clearance), some I've picked up over time on eBay etc.


*What's missing? One game - PAL B Ninja Turtles Tournament Fighters has silver sides. Which is almost as expensive as 90% of this collection combined unfortunately.

Also, I've only got each title once if they're basically identical across regions, with the exception of the Contras/Probotectors. But there are a few other more minor variations, which technically make them different titles.
  • My Turtles II is the EU version, so is 'Hero' Turtles. there is a very rare Australian silver box edition which has the correct 'Ninja Turtles' name.
  • Similar deal with Turtles III, I have the US version, PAL EU is 'Hero Turtles'
  • The PAL version of Life Force is called 'Life Force Salamander' so technically the US version has a different title (just 'Life Force'). Though in-game it just says 'Life Force'.

I've never seen this lot collected online before myself. I love Konami from that era, easily the #1 8-it developer for me. And the beautiful consistent presentation of their boxes for the first few years of the NES was amazing. It starts to slip later on and eventually they abandoned it, which is such a shame, because it's such a classy look.
 

Teknoman

Member
Looks like it but seems really gummy or dirty.

Dirty as hell apparently (dirtiest famicom cart i've seen, but it was from someone in US, so arrived pretty fast). Worked well after cleaning. The game is pretty fun and has an awesome soundtrack.

On that note, people need to play Gyruss.

gyrussnes.jpg
 

dodgeme

Member
Welp, just took the plunge, haven't been enjoying my NES games as much as I should after I've focused on my RGB capable consoles since I picked up my PVM, so I now have an NESRGB board on it's way. Thankfully had a bit of spare cash after some recent eBay sales.

Planning on modding the Toploader as I have no use for it in it's current state with no composite video capabilities.
 

BocoDragon

or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
Famicom at a flea market, AND complete? Wow.

Is Highway Star the japanese version of Rad Racer?

It's funny when you compare how timeless the name Highway Star is compared with Rad Racer.

Rad Racer was a dated sounding title by the early 90s.
 

baphomet

Member
Vancouver.

Yup, that was the answer I got last time too now that I think of it. :) he is trusted.

Feel free to hit me up if you ever decide to have it installed. I've done quite a few for folks on the board and elsewhere. Also you can add the extra sound channel to a front loader. I always do that when I mod them.
 

BocoDragon

or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
Feel free to hit me up if you ever decide to have it installed. I've done quite a few for folks on the board and elsewhere. Also you can add the extra sound channel to a front loader. I always do that when I mod them.
Thanks baphomet, I am definitely interested and mulling it over in my mind. So should I just get the NESRGB in hand and then send it with my NES to you? And how much? (for both NES or AV Famicom)
 

baphomet

Member
Thanks baphomet, I am definitely interested and mulling it over in my mind. So should I just get the NESRGB in hand and then send it with my NES to you? And how much? (for both NES or AV Famicom)

It would be right around $100 for both of them. Slightly more for the frontloader because the rgb jack has to be added and such. You could either buy the board from Tim or me, doesnt matter. Theyre $100 for frontloader or $108 for av/toploader. I have a few left in stock.
 

BocoDragon

or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
It would be right around $100 for both of them. Slightly more for the frontloader because the rgb jack has to be added and such. You could either buy the board from Tim or me, doesnt matter. Theyre $100 for frontloader or $108 for av/toploader. I have a few left in stock.

Ah thank you. So pretty much $~210(+?) for either option and all i'd have to do is ship you my console?

Mighty tempting if I can just have it done in one shipment. I'm still debating which machine to mod (nerd problems! ;)
 

-KRS-

Member
I'm almost 100% Japanese nowadays, with one exception...

My complete* CIB international Konami silver box NES collection. Some I've had for 20 years (Metal Gear I got NEW for $1, the SNES was out and NES stuff was on crazy clearance), some I've picked up over time on eBay etc.



*What's missing? One game - PAL B Ninja Turtles Tournament Fighters has silver sides. Which is almost as expensive as 90% of this collection combined unfortunately.

Also, I've only got each title once if they're basically identical across regions, with the exception of the Contras/Probotectors. But there are a few other more minor variations, which technically make them different titles.
  • My Turtles II is the EU version, so is 'Hero' Turtles. there is a very rare Australian silver box edition which has the correct 'Ninja Turtles' name.
  • Similar deal with Turtles III, I have the US version, PAL EU is 'Hero Turtles'
  • The PAL version of Life Force is called 'Life Force Salamander' so technically the US version has a different title (just 'Life Force'). Though in-game it just says 'Life Force'.

I've never seen this lot collected online before myself. I love Konami from that era, easily the #1 8-it developer for me. And the beautiful consistent presentation of their boxes for the first few years of the NES was amazing. It starts to slip later on and eventually they abandoned it, which is such a shame, because it's such a classy look.

Really nice. I also love the silver-boxed Konami games. I only have a CIB PAL Castlevania II myself though. BTW, regarding Turtles III, I think that one was actually never released as a PAL version.

If you like silver boxes in general, there's also the Famicom re-releases of Nintendo's early pulse line games like Donkey Kong, Golf, Baseball etc. The re-releases all have silver boxes that are bigger than the original release.

Here's a photo I found:
 

D.Lo

Member
Thanks synt4x, was wondering if anyone noticed, I just completed* the set this week.

Regarding Turtles III, I think that one was actually never released as a PAL version.
aha yes that's true I forgot. Technically II is the only one with a silver box variant then (both Hero and Ninja in silver), all other variations have black boxes.
 

amnesiac

Member
The other day, I decided to take out my old NES that probably hasn't been played in a couple years. Blinking white screen. Boo. If I tried long enough, I would sometimes get the games to work, but they were very glitchy. I opened up the console, bent the connectors to see if that would help, it did not.

I ordered a new 72 pin connector that will arrive tomorrow so I'm hoping that'll fix my problem.
 

BocoDragon

or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Realize This Assgrab is Delicious
The other day, I decided to take out my old NES that probably hasn't been played in a couple years. Blinking white screen. Boo. If I tried long enough, I would sometimes get the games to work, but they were very glitchy. I opened up the console, bent the connectors to see if that would help, it did not.

I ordered a new 72 pin connector that will arrive tomorrow so I'm hoping that'll fix my problem.

Cleaning the cart connectors is the other trick. The nature of the NES's front loading mechanism is that it is the most fickle cart console. You don't really have to be as obsessive about cleaning with any other machine, but on NES its a must.

But if you clean you cart connectors with q-tips and a little rubbing alcohol, you might surprise yourself with how reliably games boot. You might want to try that out before your pin connector arrives just to see if it has an effect.

And with a new connector and clean carts, I have no doubt your games will boot easily.
 

Sixfortyfive

He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
The other day, I decided to take out my old NES that probably hasn't been played in a couple years. Blinking white screen. Boo. If I tried long enough, I would sometimes get the games to work, but they were very glitchy. I opened up the console, bent the connectors to see if that would help, it did not.

I ordered a new 72 pin connector that will arrive tomorrow so I'm hoping that'll fix my problem.
Just clean your games and your pin connector. Boil the original connector if you have to.

From what I hear, most of the after-market connectors have pretty shoddy quality and don't last as long. If you use one, try playing the games without pressing them downward after insertion. That wears out the connector faster.
 

amnesiac

Member
Cleaning the cart connectors is the other trick. The nature of the NES's front loading mechanism is that it is the most fickle cart console. You don't really have to be as obsessive about cleaning with any other machine, but on NES its a must.

But if you clean you cart connectors with q-tips and a little rubbing alcohol, you might surprise yourself with how reliably games boot. You might want to try that out before your pin connector arrives just to see if it has an effect.

And with a new connector and clean carts, I have no doubt your games will boot easily.

Just clean your games and your pin connector. Boil the original connector if you have to.

From what I hear, most of the after-market connectors have pretty shoddy quality and don't last as long. If you use one, try playing the games without pressing them downward after insertion. That wears out the connector faster.

Thanks for the tips.

I opened the console up, cleaned the old 72 pin connector and the thing that it slides into, but no luck.

Put the new 72 pin connector in and tried it out, no luck. Still a pain to get games to boot with the white and blinking screens.

So what's the next step? I've cleaned my games, the console, the old 72 pin connector, and tried out a new one. Am I out of luck? Perhaps I should try brasso.

Also, how many times on average does it take for your games to boot?
 

Sixfortyfive

He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
Cleaning out the games and systems should do the trick. If not 100% of the time, at least the majority. How thorough were you? Games should be cleaned with alcohol and cotton swabs until the swabs aren't picking up any more dirt. The cartridge connector should be picked clean of any loose crud, then swabbed down itself (a cloth wrapped around an old credit card, damped with alcohol is what I usually use) until it also returns no more dirt.

Disable the lockout chip if you're still not having luck. Alternatively, get a top-loader.
 

emb

Member
Thanks for the tips.

I opened the console up, cleaned the old 72 pin connector and the thing that it slides into, but no luck.

Put the new 72 pin connector in and tried it out, no luck. Still a pain to get games to boot with the white and blinking screens.

So what's the next step? I've cleaned my games, the console, the old 72 pin connector, and tried out a new one. Am I out of luck? Perhaps I should try brasso.

Also, how many times on average does it take for your games to boot?
By the time I replace the connector and clean the games, they almost always boot the first time. I have had brasso save games that otherwise weren't working. But I'm surprised you're still seeing any issues, generally.
 

Peltz

Member
Thanks for the tips.

I opened the console up, cleaned the old 72 pin connector and the thing that it slides into, but no luck.

Put the new 72 pin connector in and tried it out, no luck. Still a pain to get games to boot with the white and blinking screens.

So what's the next step? I've cleaned my games, the console, the old 72 pin connector, and tried out a new one. Am I out of luck? Perhaps I should try brasso.

Also, how many times on average does it take for your games to boot?

If you're getting blinkies, it's probably the lockout chip.
 

Morfeo

The Chuck Norris of Peace
Finally got around to play the Goonies 2 today after listening to Jeremy Parish talk about it for years, and while the game is definitely interesting and fun for a 1987-game, the lack of direction and tons of arbitrary secrets really lets it down imo. Doesnt help that I am completely stuck either :(
 

amnesiac

Member
Well I disabled the lockout chip and no more blinking lights, but the games still only run about 20% of the time. I guess it's a lost cause. Thanks for all your help!
 

putermcgee

Junior Member
Finally got around to play the Goonies 2 today after listening to Jeremy Parish talk about it for years, and while the game is definitely interesting and fun for a 1987-game, the lack of direction and tons of arbitrary secrets really lets it down imo. Doesnt help that I am completely stuck either :(
How does it compare to the first Goonies game if you've played it?

Yesterday, I picked up Salamander (Life Force) and Buggy Popper (Bump n Jump), cart only, of course. Does the Konami Code not work on the Japanese version of Life Force? Whenever I start the game, it actually looks like it's changing my remaining life count from 3 to 2.
 

robot

Member
How does it compare to the first Goonies game if you've played it?

Yesterday, I picked up Salamander (Life Force) and Buggy Popper (Bump n Jump), cart only, of course. Does the Konami Code not work on the Japanese version of Life Force? Whenever I start the game, it actually looks like it's changing my remaining life count from 3 to 2.

nope, doesn't work. kind of a bummer.

Buggy Popper is on my buy list!
 

putermcgee

Junior Member
nope, doesn't work. kind of a bummer.

Buggy Popper is on my buy list!
Yeah, hardcore bummer. At least the cart looks amazing.

Buggy Popper is really cheap if you just want the cart. 400 yen or so at places around Akihabara, or under 200 in the burbs. Nice green cart too. And one of my favorite NES/Famicom soundtracks.
 

Morfeo

The Chuck Norris of Peace
How does it compare to the first Goonies game if you've played it?

Yesterday, I picked up Salamander (Life Force) and Buggy Popper (Bump n Jump), cart only, of course. Does the Konami Code not work on the Japanese version of Life Force? Whenever I start the game, it actually looks like it's changing my remaining life count from 3 to 2.

I havent played it unfortunately, but from what I have seen of it on Chrontendo, the second game definitely looks more unique. I eventually managed to finish it, and a lot of the stuff you have to do to progress, is very arbitrary and really not that fun to figure out. But it was still an interesting experience just to be taken back to one of those early Konami-games from the age when they were still developing into the powerhouse they eventually became on the Famicom and Super Famicom.
 

D.Lo

Member
How does it compare to the first Goonies game if you've played it?
Goonies 1 is a very nice little level based adventure puzzle game. Like Montezuma's Revenge but better.

Goonies II is a sprawling Metroid type thing.

You definitely need a guide, with a good map, to enjoy Goonies II these days. I'm sure there are nice ones on the web. I played it through as a teenager making my own maps, which is closer to the true spirit of adventure honestly, but man it was a slog.

Both really good quality games however.
 
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