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Plastic Scale Modeling Age |OT| Planes, tanks, cars, sci-fi & more

4444244

Member
Bandai's Star Wars range is all snap-fit, but there are times where you'll want to glue bits to stop things falling off (I'm looking at you TIE Fighter panels).

Any particular reason you want to avoid glue? If you get some of that Tamiya Extra Thin that comes with an application brush then it becomes super easy and mess free.

Thanks for your reply, I just like the covenience of a snap together kit. It also means that, at a later stage I could touch up paint / detailing on individual panels by removing them.

I remember many years ago making a snap togther kit and it was really bad, so I steered clear, but given the results of the one I just built they seems to have improved a lot over the years.
 
When I was a kid, I was obsessed with video games, but my dad would still sometimes buy models for me, a couple rockets you put together and paint and then fire off, but I was never really into that stuff, and never ended up making them.

Well he moved recently, and I found an old model he got me that would now be right up my alley. A snap together Godzilla model from early or mid 90s. So I'm looking forward to getting into that at some point soon.

I'll be sure to post pics when I do, though I'm gonna keep it simple. Prime, base, wash, dry, clear coat. We'll see what happens.
 

Skwerl

Member
Gimix's Ace Combat F-15s are pretty great...already painted out of the box, just need some assembling and weathering.
ALSO NOBODY TELLS ME THIS F-15 IS OVERWEATHERED. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS OVERWEATHERED FIGHTER JET IN MY BOOK D:

tumblr_nzbjvrYhAz1s8u3x2o1_1280.jpg
 
I wanted to try a ship lot and bought Heller kit of Jean Bart at 1:400. Well don't buy it. It's fucking trash.

Had to drill about an undred holes through the deck. Dozen of large holes for no apparent use on deck. Some holes marked for secondary turrets 3 cm out of position from correct rotation axis (had to make more holes, turret could not turn, was hitting superstructure...) but worst is that parts and pieces are numbered but not in order so good fucking luck finding pieces on all the rack with no system of identification.


j9jfds5.jpg


I like my boats. I like assembling together and gluing. But I don't like painting I'm not comfortable yet.

Not sure if I will go for another one soon. I'd like to try a Tamiya still
 

NEO0MJ

Member
Oh god.

It's only a matter of time until this happens to me.

What's annoying to me is that this isn't the first time this happened to me. Guess it's super important to clean the part right away instead of putting it on the side walking away before coming back continuing work. Funny enough I didn't cut the part on the other half so I don't know why I did this. Don't know if I can fix this considering how small the part is. If it was ust to hold it together I could simply super glue it but I need it to slide.

ALSO NOBODY TELLS ME THIS F-15 IS OVERWEATHERED. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS OVERWEATHERED FIGHTER JET IN MY BOOK D:

BUT THEN HOW DOES IT FLY D:
 

TheFlow

Banned
So I finished my first model in about a decade. I had some time off work and decided to try it again. I'm already hooked and thinking about trying another.

I'd love a critque. I know it's not perfect, but I'm still quite proud of it. I need to add most of the decals yet after screwing the one up for the shield. That's something for tomorrow or later in the week.

h9ri


DlhP


5S3k
Before I begin make sure to visit the gunpla reddit. The community is generally nice but they will definitely comment on your mistakes making you a better builder for it. Also gunpla thread here on GAF is full of great people who love the model kits and tv show of course.

don't worry about decals. I think most of the 0079 kits look great with minimal to none stickers. The key about dry transfer decals is to rub them smoothly across while applying pressure. Do not lift off quickly but slowly.

I am a novice myself(1 year of building) but here are some of the things I would clean up.

nub marks. get a hobby knife and sand paper if you haven't already and try to get rid of them.

it looks like you applied topcoat to it. if you haven't make sure to tape/cover the clear parts like the eyes. I wish my panel lining was as clean as yours when I first started.


Also this is the last kit I finished which was about 2 weeks ago.

MG Rick
 
Thanks for the tips in this thread. Ordered my first model last week, the Russian T34/76 from Tamiya. Pretty happy with the result for now.

Things learned: use less glue, make sure things fit when putting them together to prevent glue going everywhere, and don't accidentally cut off a piece of the part when taking it out. And I couldn't figure out how the soldier went onto the turret, so I just shut the hatch there in the end.


Don't really know how to go about painting it now. I put on the accessories already, which I should have done later I guess. Airbrushing looks pretty cool, but I don't want to invest $200 worth of stuff right away now. Just got a set of regular brushes and the paint from the booklet.

Do you guys paint before putting together a model, or paint it after a few pieces are glued together, or just at the end when it's all done?
 

4444244

Member
I saw one of those 1/8 Kyosho Mclaren MP4/4 kits at a local model show.

Soo lovely ... but then I saw the price. I could buy an iPhone or a nice candy cab for that.

And what's the deal with kit companies not being allowed to include fag advertising that was on the actual car, jeez I hate smoking too, but some of the legislation takes the piss!
 

Leunam

Member
I saw one of those 1/8 Kyosho Mclaren MP4/4 kits at a local model show.

Soo lovely ... but then I saw the price. I could buy an iPhone or a nice candy cab for that.

And what's the deal with kit companies not being allowed to include fag advertising that was on the actual car, jeez I hate smoking too, but some of the legislation takes the piss!

I've got a Tamiya McLaren MP7 on the back burner and I was able to find Marlboro decals on ebay right away.
 

Cerity

Member
Picked up an Iwata Neo CN airbrush and lord what a difference compared to the cheapy jobs I had. Time to finally tackle the mountain of assembled but unpainted kits.

Is it possible to 3D print model kits?

I looked into this not too long ago and short answer is that you can but don't expect the super fine detail you get out of the better kits. Most people just more or less print 'completed' models and paint them.
 

Cerity

Member
Which is usually fine and all but then you realise there's probably a couple hundred variations of light grey across all paint ranges. Luckily enough this being German I can refer to the RLM colours but still.
 

dubc35

Member
I get in and out of plastic models, mostly cars. The requirement for large numbers of paint is always annoying. I don't need all of the colors but I want them. If I was more consistent I would have a built up inventory to pull from, but it's usually too long between the itch to build another model that I have to buy new.

In my build queue: (no progress in probably 3 years, lol)
Keiichi Tsuchiya's AE86 Levin
Subaru WRC rally car (GC chassis) plus a rally car mechanic crew
McLaren MP4/4
 

NEO0MJ

Member
So, if anyone is interested in Zoids Gojulas Canon is coming soon. Aside from the different colors it has plenty of new parts for a much more aggressive look. You can even buy some of them separately if you had the old one.

 

Juanfp

Member
I just finish my first model in a long time. It is a cheap Revell model that I found in a store. Painting was harder than I remembered.

NFVBzD5l.jpg
 
So, if anyone is interested in Zoids Gojulas Canon is coming soon. Aside from the different colors it has plenty of new parts for a much more aggressive look. You can even buy some of them separately if you had the old one.

I am interested in Kotobukiya's Zoids for a long time, but lack the money and space for it. I had brought a few Tomy's Zoids kits more than ten years ago, and I love their design. Really hoping to get back into it.
 

Yarbskoo

Member
Sorry, it was milimetres :)

It's a nice amount of painted detail for something so small. If I wasn't so afraid of doing even a simple wash, I'd probably buy a lot more model kits. Like maybe that Battle Droid STAP, or the AT-ST, or even Metal Gear Rex.
 
my first time making tank plastic model (actually first time making plastic model that's not Gundam). it's Tamiya Stug III Ausf.G
hqdefault.jpg


All I've done is pre shading with black paint then the main color, after that just painting the little detail like black tire and metallic grey for rope and accesories. what should I do next? I'm thinking apply decal first before I try weathering? any good weathering guide for beginner?

Pd7oPp9.jpg
 
Do most people assemble something before painting it? Or paint it while still on the sprue/before gluing? I've got quite a few things to make at the moment but it's painting i have difficulty with as i don't have many colours.
 
Do most people assemble something before painting it? Or paint it while still on the sprue/before gluing? I've got quite a few things to make at the moment but it's painting i have difficulty with as i don't have many colours.

I make sub assemblies. For example, if it's a plane I assemble the cockpit, paint it and set it aside. I paint the visible interiors of the fuselage before assembly. I assemble and paint bombs/tanks seperately. Then I assemble and paint the whole body.. Similar for cars, but interior and engine gets done first etc.
 
I make sub assemblies. For example, if it's a plane I assemble the cockpit, paint it and set it aside. I paint the visible interiors of the fuselage before assembly. I assemble and paint bombs/tanks seperately. Then I assemble and paint the whole body.. Similar for cars, but interior and engine gets done first etc.

That sounds a good way to do things. I have a 1/35th Tamiya M16 Halftrack to make and other than a 1/35 tank i attempted years ago (it didn't go well, only got about half finished) i've not tried anything that big before, so not entirely sure how to approach painting it.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
my first time making tank plastic model (actually first time making plastic model that's not Gundam). it's Tamiya Stug III Ausf.G

That's a cool tank. Wish I could provide you with more info on how to paint it.

Do most people assemble something before painting it? Or paint it while still on the sprue/before gluing? I've got quite a few things to make at the moment but it's painting i have difficulty with as i don't have many colours.

While it''s a tempting idea painting the parts while they're on the sprue is a mistake. THe parts attached to the numbs will be unpainted and you''ll ruin the paint if you try to sand it.
 
That's a cool tank. Wish I could provide you with more info on how to paint it.



While it''s a tempting idea painting the parts while they're on the sprue is a mistake. THe parts attached to the numbs will be unpainted and you''ll ruin the paint if you try to sand it.
Thanks, a friend of mine picked that one because it's his favorite tank in world of tanks in term of looks. Found a website that give step by step guide for weathering, gonna try it when I had the time soon. Really enjoy making tank model, would love to make another one after this one is finished. It also make me interested in trying other military model like planes and ships.
 
Can someone help me with what sort of paints are best? I don't know the difference between enamel and acrylic really, i had a look at a few forums and they've said acrylic tend to be pretty bad but those posts were from years ago. I've only used Citadel paints before though and i'm not sure what type they are. Revell Enamel paints are what the instructions for the TIE fighter kit i have seem to suggest and they look relatively easy to obtain (but i'd still have to order them), while Humbrol paints I've seen in shops a few times but they might be acrylic.
 
Can someone help me with what sort of paints are best? I don't know the difference between enamel and acrylic really, i had a look at a few forums and they've said acrylic tend to be pretty bad but those posts were from years ago. I've only used Citadel paints before though and i'm not sure what type they are. Revell Enamel paints are what the instructions for the TIE fighter kit i have seem to suggest and they look relatively easy to obtain (but i'd still have to order them), while Humbrol paints I've seen in shops a few times but they might be acrylic.
Citadel paints are acrylic if I remember it right. I use acrylic these days because they're less toxic than enamel. Sure maybe enamel give the best result but it also have it's downsides, like it takes a long time for the paint to dry compare to acrylic. More toxic so you'd need mask and preferably a paint booth that suck the fumes out.

Overall, I just feel acrylic are easier and less of a hassle to use.

I mostly use tamiya acrylic these days.
 
Citadel paints are acrylic if I remember it right. I use acrylic these days because they're less toxic than enamel. Sure maybe enamel give the best result but it also have it's downsides, like it takes a long time for the paint to dry compare to acrylic. More toxic so you'd need mask and preferably a paint booth that suck the fumes out.

Overall, I just feel acrylic are easier and less of a hassle to use.

I mostly use tamiya acrylic these days.

Looking at the Revell acrylic paints, they seem to have the same names/colour range as the enamel versions, which is good.

It is a bit disappointing to me that the acrylic paints aren't in those small metal tins, though (while the enamel ones are), I kinda like those for some reason.
 

Risible

Member
Can someone help me with what sort of paints are best? I don't know the difference between enamel and acrylic really, i had a look at a few forums and they've said acrylic tend to be pretty bad but those posts were from years ago. I've only used Citadel paints before though and i'm not sure what type they are. Revell Enamel paints are what the instructions for the TIE fighter kit i have seem to suggest and they look relatively easy to obtain (but i'd still have to order them), while Humbrol paints I've seen in shops a few times but they might be acrylic.

Enamels are oil based and acrylics are water based. Acrylics clean up with water, whereas you'll need some kind of thinner to clean up after enamels. Enamels take much longer to dry. Generally speaking acrylics are much easier to work with.
 
Can someone help me with what sort of paints are best? I don't know the difference between enamel and acrylic really, i had a look at a few forums and they've said acrylic tend to be pretty bad but those posts were from years ago. I've only used Citadel paints before though and i'm not sure what type they are. Revell Enamel paints are what the instructions for the TIE fighter kit i have seem to suggest and they look relatively easy to obtain (but i'd still have to order them), while Humbrol paints I've seen in shops a few times but they might be acrylic.

I don't know who said acrylic are pretty bad but if someone made such a blanket statement they are pretty stupid. It's a common bias among modellers because modelling is an old hobby and at the time acrylic paints just did not have similar pigment quality and durability, but as someone who paints wargaming minis as well, I'd say acrylics these days don't lack in quality, are overall a lot easier and look a lot more natural. Vallejo's Model Color line beats everything else in the market as far as I'm concerned (And you can find a handy conversion chart supplied by them here). I've moved from enamel to acrylic for models some time ago and never looked back. Ever.
 

Cerity

Member
its just that acrylics scratch a lot easier than enamels/lacquers and IMO it's a lot easier to get a nice gloss coat with enamls/lacquers. Being more scratch prone is definitely worth the trade off when you consider that using enamel's and lacquers means dealing with toxic chemicals. And laying down a nice gloss just takes a bit of practice and learning with acrylics.
 

deim0s

Member
Citadel paints are acrylic if I remember it right. I use acrylic these days because they're less toxic than enamel. Sure maybe enamel give the best result but it also have it's downsides, like it takes a long time for the paint to dry compare to acrylic. More toxic so you'd need mask and preferably a paint booth that suck the fumes out.

Overall, I just feel acrylic are easier and less of a hassle to use.

I mostly use tamiya acrylic these days.

Am thinking of using Tamiya brand for repainting larger flat panels on mecha kits.

Thing that I like with gaming paints, like Citadel, you could thin them with water. Can you do the same with Tamiya acrylics to a milk like consistency or for use with their own thinner?

My experience is with Citadel, P3 paints (by the warmachine guys), and Vallejo for WH40k and the like. Can you do 'brush on' as well with the Tamiya acrylics or you're airbrushing?
 
Am thinking of using Tamiya brand for repainting larger flat panels on mecha kits.

Thing that I like with gaming paints, like Citadel, you could thin them with water. Can you do the same with Tamiya acrylics to a milk like consistency or for use with their own thinner?

My experience is with Citadel, P3 paints (by the warmachine guys), and Vallejo for WH40k and the like. Can you do 'brush on' as well with the Tamiya acrylics or you're airbrushing?
You thin them with tamiya acrylic thinner, I use airbrush for large surfaces and sometimes small brush for small parts or little detail.

It's hard to use brush for large surfaces because I keep getting brush marks, although I know someone who can get really smooth result just from using a brush.
 
Done with my first tank, pretty happy with the result, it's a lot of fun, I messed up a lot, experimenting with the weathering but you can just keep going and it doesn't matter much if I messed up since I'm going for the dirty look anyway.

gU3mhXt.jpg
 

Yarbskoo

Member
Done with my first tank, pretty happy with the result, it's a lot of fun, I messed up a lot, experimenting with the weathering but you can just keep going and it doesn't matter much if I messed up since I'm going for the dirty look anyway.

gU3mhXt.jpg

Damn, that looks good, very nice.
 
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