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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Husker86

Member
This was the best thread I could think of to ask about wireless headsets.

So, I have narrowed down to the Skullcandy PLYR1 or the Logitech G930.

Reviews for both mention issues that seem kinda hard to overlook.

Logitech one supposedly cuts out frequently. Skullcandy one supposedly falls apart.

I like the Skullcandy since it uses optical audio input for it's base, plus is has a nice stand.

I like the Logitech because it's almost $50 cheaper, plus I just like Logitech as a brand (always loved the keyboards and mice that I get from them).

Help me GAF!

edit: nevermind, my research has lead me to forget about wireless headsets :(
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Then go with the 212 Evo cooler if it fits your case, no need to spend any more than that for a slight overclock.

The 212 Evo comes with a syringe tube of thermal paste that you'll need to apply yourself, but it's not hard. Lightly push out a blob the size of a small pea and press the cooler down to spread the paste, no need for manual spreading.

Yes you'll need a Philips screwdriver, and depending on how accessible your case is, in the worst case scenario you'll need to take the motherboard out of the case so you can install the metal backplate for the cooler.

I'm guessing the paste thing is only required for aftermarket coolers. I didn't have to apply any paste at all with the stock cooler.

And my case is an NZXT Phantom full tower.
 
I'm guessing the paste thing is only required for aftermarket coolers. I didn't have to apply any paste at all with the stock cooler.

And my case is an NZXT Phantom full tower.

It's usually pre-applied to stock coolers. It's a grey paste on the side that touches the CPU.

214b6e1f_intelC2Dstock_bot.jpeg
 

Portugeezer

Member
So uh, what is a good free graphics benchmark to test the new pc, and also something to stress test to make sure everything holds up?

Thanks!
 

element

Member
Setting up my 5930k right now. Only bought two sticks of RAM and it wouldn't post with it. Put the RAM in A1 and B1. Ended up pulling B1 out and got it to post. Going to try to put it in A2 once Windows is done installing.

Final build.
Intel 5930k
Asrock x99 Extreme 4
2 x 8 Crucial Ballistix 2400 DDR4
Nvidia 660 GTX
Intel 480 GB SSD
2 TB HDD
Bluray Drive

Hope I can use that 2nd stick or I'll have to wait until I can buy two more to do quad.
 

element

Member
Nice build The_Afroman. Those short Corsair cases are great.

I have to say that my 5930k is pretty damn fast! ZOOM!
 

RGM79

Member
Samsung 850 Pro vs 850 EVO

Any noticeable differences in performance? Thinking of going EVO for the cheaper price.

Go with the Evo, you won't see the difference.

This was the best thread I could think of to ask about wireless headsets.

So, I have narrowed down to the Skullcandy PLYR1 or the Logitech G930.

Reviews for both mention issues that seem kinda hard to overlook.

Logitech one supposedly cuts out frequently. Skullcandy one supposedly falls apart.

I like the Skullcandy since it uses optical audio input for it's base, plus is has a nice stand.

I like the Logitech because it's almost $50 cheaper, plus I just like Logitech as a brand (always loved the keyboards and mice that I get from them).

Help me GAF!

edit: nevermind, my research has lead me to forget about wireless headsets :(

Yeah, a lot of wireless headsets are just troublesome in general. I've heard praise for certain wireless Sennheiser models, but even then there are still issues.

I'm guessing the paste thing is only required for aftermarket coolers. I didn't have to apply any paste at all with the stock cooler.

And my case is an NZXT Phantom full tower.

Yep. Some aftermarket coolers already have paste applied to make it easier, but not for the 212 Evo. Yeah, your case will easily accomodate the cooler. The square access cutout in the motherboard tray should be large enough so you won't have to disassemble the PC just to install the cooler's metal backplate.

So uh, what is a good free graphics benchmark to test the new pc, and also something to stress test to make sure everything holds up?

Thanks!

3DMark Fire Strike, Unigine Heaven, Furmark, Prime95, AIDA64.

If you're not overclocking (I forgot if you are) then you won't really need to stress test, everything should work out of the box.

Setting up my 5930k right now. Only bought two sticks of RAM and it wouldn't post with it. Put the RAM in A1 and B1. Ended up pulling B1 out and got it to post. Going to try to put it in A2 once Windows is done installing.

Final build.
Intel 5930k
Asrock x99 Extreme 4
2 x 8 Crucial Ballistix 2400 DDR4
Nvidia 660 GTX
Intel 480 GB SSD
2 TB HDD
Bluray Drive

Hope I can use that 2nd stick or I'll have to wait until I can buy two more to do quad.

As far as I know, it should work no matter which slots you put them in, but I could be wrong. Hopefully it's not a bad stick of RAM.
 

element

Member
As far as I know, it should work no matter which slots you put them in, but I could be wrong. Hopefully it's not a bad stick of RAM.
Got it working by moving it go A2 instead of B1. Dual RAM you do it in slot order, Quad you do A1, B1, C1, D1.

So far it is screaming, but testing speed by encoding a Bluray in Vidcoder and it is only taking 45% of CPU. Have to do some investigation.
 

RGM79

Member
Got it working by moving it go A2 instead of B1. Dual RAM you do it in slot order, Quad you do A1, B1, C1, D1.

So far it is screaming, but testing speed by encoding a Bluray in Vidcoder and it is only taking 45% of CPU. Have to do some investigation.

I'd have thought that putting them in the wrong slots would just default to single channel mode like the majority of consumer dual channel-enabled motherboards today, but good to hear that the RAM works.
 

kikonawa

Member
Setting up my 5930k right now. Only bought two sticks of RAM and it wouldn't post with it. Put the RAM in A1 and B1. Ended up pulling B1 out and got it to post. Going to try to put it in A2 once Windows is done installing.

Final build.
Intel 5930k
Asrock x99 Extreme 4
2 x 8 Crucial Ballistix 2400 DDR4
Nvidia 660 GTX
Intel 480 GB SSD
2 TB HDD
Bluray Drive

Hope I can use that 2nd stick or I'll have to wait until I can buy two more to do quad.
That videocard does not match the rest of the parts. :) reusing it?
 

Husker86

Member
Yeah, a lot of wireless headsets are just troublesome in general. I've heard praise for certain wireless Sennheiser models, but even then there are still issues.

Yeah, I went with an Asus Xonar DGX sound card for $38. I wasn't aware that the 5.1/7.1 headphones were all software simulated. I have a decent pair of Bose over the ear (don't mock, my Mom got them for me years ago), and with the Xonar I can get the Dolby Headphones Surround with any headphones. I suppose I can live with a wired headset.
 

element

Member
So far the 5930k is damn fast, but confused why Vidcoder isn't using 100%. Pretty much hovering between 35% and 45%. Tried changing the Priority and no change :(
 

RGM79

Member
My Corsair Air is collecting a lot of dust.

Is there anyway to clean it by myself ?

Disconnect the tower, bring it to an open ventilated place that you won't mind getting dusty like the outdoors, and blowing around the case with compressed air is usually good enough. Caked on dust on parts like fan blades, in heatsink gaps, and other small places are more difficult and require you to use things like toothpicks, cotton swabs, tweezers and a towel or cloth wetted with water or rubbing alcohol to get it clean. You may have to remove some parts in order to better clean them out, or even a complete system disassemble and reassemble to really clean it out.

So far the 5930k is damn fast, but confused why Vidcoder isn't using 100%. Pretty much hovering between 35% and 45%. Tried changing the Priority and no change :(

Might have to do with your encoding settings or perhaps the kind of encoding you are doing. If it's multi-threaded, it may be balancing workload across all processing threads rather than driving CPU usage of a few cores up to 100%.
 

LilJoka

Member
It seems that everybody here is getting the GTX 970s. I'm still waiting for Skylake to come out along with DDR4 Memory.

Why..?
If you got the budget now you are wasting your time. DDR4 is offering nothing right now and I don't forsee any improvement for gaming.
Skylake will probably be 20% faster clock for clock over Haswell, but I don't see it arriving this year.
 

Azulsky

Member
So whats the current limitations on System Builder Win licenses vs Retail???

I'm getting mixed stories when searching.


That looks like a sick rig Afroman!
 

RGM79

Member
do i have any reason to want to sell a GTX 780 just to buy a 970 (aside from wanting to upgrade for the hell of it)?

The GTX 970 is more power efficient and a bit faster. Not a big enough performance difference that it'd be a sizable upgrade, but if the price is right, you could upgrade.

Is the GTX 780 not performing as well as you want?

So whats the current limitations on System Builder Win licenses vs Retail???

I'm getting mixed stories when searching.


That looks like a sick rig Afroman!

Sorry, I'm not clear on what you're asking about. What do you mean "system builder windows licenses" compared to retail Windows? And I'm not sure what limitations you're talking about. I don't see any reason why they should be different.
 

Azulsky

Member
Sorry, I'm not clear on what you're asking about. What do you mean "system builder windows licenses" compared to retail Windows? And I'm not sure what limitations you're talking about. I don't see any reason why they should be different.

So they have OEM 'System Builder Licenses' that are ~$130 for Win 8.1 Pro, and they have what look like the full retail package for $200

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=windows_8.1_pro_64-_-32-416-711-_-Product

vs

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=windows_8.1_pro_64-_-32-416-778-_-Product

I am basically as confused as this article is

http://www.howtogeek.com/197232/mic...rs-with-windows-8.1-system-builder-licensing/

I guess my general concern is whether I will be able to get the upgrade for the next version when that rolls around or if I will have to buy an official retail license.

I guess it sounds like it is fine.

http://www.microsoft.com/oem/en/licensing/sblicensing/Pages/windows-licensing-for-personal-use.aspx
 

RGM79

Member
So they have OEM 'System Builder Licenses' that are ~$130 for Win 8.1 Pro, and they have what look like the full retail package for $200

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=windows_8.1_pro_64-_-32-416-711-_-Product

vs

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=windows_8.1_pro_64-_-32-416-778-_-Product

I am basically as confused as this article is

http://www.howtogeek.com/197232/mic...rs-with-windows-8.1-system-builder-licensing/

I guess my general concern is whether I will be able to get the upgrade for the next version when that rolls around or if I will have to buy an official retail license.

I guess it sounds like it is fine.

http://www.microsoft.com/oem/en/licensing/sblicensing/Pages/windows-licensing-for-personal-use.aspx

Oh, I see. There are no real differences between those versions of Windows they are both 8.1 Professional edition, except for the legal terms. The only limitations are "support from Microsoft" which barely anyone ever uses except for businesses, as well as technically breaking licensing terms which Microsoft doesn't bother to enforce. You'll be safe going with either option. For example, they don't know if you bought the system builder option to use for yourself or if someone else purchased that system builder version to install on a PC that was sold to you. I guess somewhere around tens or hundreds of thousands of people bought the cheaper system builder version and no one has experienced Microsoft dropping the hammer on them, otherwise people would be warning others not to buy it.

At this point, Windows 10 upgrade plans aren't known yet, although with Windows 8/8.1 having abysmal market share and people still clinging to Windows 7, they will probably roll out some kind of upgrade program with incentives. If it is anything like the release of Windows 8, they will provide discounted keys to anyone who has a copy of previous recent versions of Windows. They did not even check any details about each product key, they accepted any product key (or sometimes didn't even require a old product key) for a discounted Windows upgrade to Windows 8 in the past.

Here we sometimes recommend that people buy Windows 7/8.1 keys from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 or less and then just use that key to download the official Windows installers - working with fully working, active and unique keys. Technically it's just like going with the system builder version, using these cheap keys from reddit is probably breaking a licensing agreement and so you forfeit official support, but Microsoft has no easy way of tracking which of the tens of millions of product keys are being used by exactly which people in eligible positions, and they don't really bother to enforce the licensing restrictions either. They don't know unless you tell them.

It's your choice whether you want to save the money or go for full Microsoft support.
 

versa7il

Member
It could be the PSU or possibly even the motherboard. I couldn't find any professional reviews of the LSP750, but Ultra's reputation seems to range from bad to average. Have you tried the graphics card in another PC? I wouldn't rule out the motherboard being a bit damaged after the blackout. The power supply powers the graphics card through the motherboard, after all.

Thanks for the help. I tried both graphics card on another PC and they were dead. I'm buying a new PSU and mobo just to be safe.
 

Gintamen

Member
So I made the huge mistake of buying a case with too few pci slots... and intend to simply use my old case for a the new build and swap it to a new one arriving sometime next week. Could I face any problems by swapping nothing but the case?
 

Rufus

Member
So I made the huge mistake of buying a case with too few pci slots... and intend to simply use my old case for a the new build and swap it to a new one arriving sometime next week. Could I face any problems by swapping nothing but the case?
None that I can think of, apart from annoyance. Actually, you might have to take your heatsink off, so make sure you have enough thermal paste handy.
 

knitoe

Member
So I made the huge mistake of buying a case with too few pci slots... and intend to simply use my old case for a the new build and swap it to a new one arriving sometime next week. Could I face any problems by swapping nothing but the case?
Nope. Just be careful not to damage, by physical, static charge and etc., something when swapping.
 

element

Member
Might have to do with your encoding settings or perhaps the kind of encoding you are doing. If it's multi-threaded, it may be balancing workload across all processing threads rather than driving CPU usage of a few cores up to 100%.
Curious if I set the affinity to only use certain cores.

You are probably limited by your disk speed.
Lame. SSD is getting 492/mb read and 221/mb write. I guess time to explore M2.
 

Xiraiya

Member
I'm looking to build this year, within the next couple of months mainly, first new PC since about 2006

Processor
Intel Core i7 4790K 4.0GHz

Video Card
Gigabyte GV-N970G1 GAMING-4GD

Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory

Storage
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Case
NZXT Phantom 630 (White) ATX Full Tower Case

I'm not into the SLi/4K nonsense, I just want to build a good simple but nice quality gaming PC that'll last a good few years easily and can stay fairly cool. I really don't want to go beyond 2k AUD, preferably under but I know I'll be cutting close regardless, . My biggest issue is figuring out the right motherboard without overspending, the case too is kind of up in the air, I seem to prefer the NZXT cases but some of the cheaper ones don't come in white or seem to be able to fit a DVD drive etc.

The biggest issue seems to be finding the motherboard I want to go with this stuff, so any suggestions on things I can switch out or add in terms of brands and price and so on would be much appreciated.
 

belmonkey

Member
Ugh, I tried to put a Radeon 5830 into my new PC and while the GPU itself can barely fit in, the 6-pin connectors bend the wire so much that I cannot fit it with the hard drive bays in the way (nor open up enough space to pass cables through it). Am I doomed?
 

reKon

Banned
Spent some more time researching on the cooling. Ended up choosing between these two fans:

http://us.hardware.info/comparisontable/products/209749-49503

I was looking at some builds and this dude ended up using 3 scythes and the Noctua NH-L9i, resulting in quiet and cool system: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/RTm8TW (no OCing on this though).

The Emermax Twister Pressure ended up being the most efficient in terms of airflow/noise level according to this review of 103 fans:

http://us.hardware.info/reviews/5770/9/103-12cm-case-fans-review-conclusion. It will likely last longer than the scythe's too.

There's a sale on Newegg right now on the Enermax. Buy 1 and get a free fan, which averages to $7.50 a fan.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214059
 

ricki42

Member
Ugh, I tried to put a Radeon 5830 into my new PC and while the GPU itself can barely fit in, the 6-pin connectors bend the wire so much that I cannot fit it with the hard drive bays in the way (nor open up enough space to pass cables through it). Am I doomed?

What case do you have? Can you take out part of the hard drive cage? Could you try routing the cables behind the motherboard tray and then connect them from above? Or is that what you tried?
 

belmonkey

Member
What case do you have? Can you take out part of the hard drive cage? Could you try routing the cables behind the motherboard tray and then connect them from above? Or is that what you tried?

In one of the corners there is a cage that can hold two hard drives, and where the GPU would go on the motherboard, one end of the GPU is pushed to the other side of the case (where it could be screwed on), and the the other end is about 1.5cm away from the middle of the hard drive cage.

As it is, there is no way to even have 1 6-pin connected, partially because the cables are too rigid to bend around much. The best thing I could do is move the hard drive to open up a slight gap and attempt to pass the cables through there, but the two 6-pins are at different ends of a single small cable, so the bending is a real problem.

I should have insisted that my mate kept the old GPU and I could instead just get a cheap and half-size GTX 750 or something.
 

RGM79

Member
I'm looking to build this year, within the next couple of months mainly, first new PC since about 2006

I'm not into the SLi/4K nonsense, I just want to build a good simple but nice quality gaming PC that'll last a good few years easily and can stay fairly cool. I really don't want to go beyond 2k AUD, preferably under but I know I'll be cutting close regardless, . My biggest issue is figuring out the right motherboard without overspending, the case too is kind of up in the air, I seem to prefer the NZXT cases but some of the cheaper ones don't come in white or seem to be able to fit a DVD drive etc.

The biggest issue seems to be finding the motherboard I want to go with this stuff, so any suggestions on things I can switch out or add in terms of brands and price and so on would be much appreciated.

You didn't mention what you were going to use the computer for. If it's just games, then the i5 4690K will give you the same performance as the more expensive i7 4790K in terms of framerate, as they are very similar processors. The only real difference between the two is the i7's hyperthreading feature, which games don't take advantage of.

Well, given that you won't be running multiple graphics cards or anything like that, you can get away with spending less than $150 AUD on a motherboard. I recommend the following:

Asus Z97-K for $139 - Realtek LAN and ALC887 audio, 6 x SATA, 1 x M.2, 4 x USB 3.0 at rear
Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 for $139 - Realtek LAN and ALC887 audio, 6 x SATA, 4 x USB 3.0 at rear
ASRock Z97 Pro4 for $145 - Intel LAN, Realtek ALC892 audio, 6 x SATA, 1 x M.2 and SATA Express, 4 x USB 3.0 at rear
MSI Z97 PC MATE for $149 - Realtek LAN and ALC887 audio, 6 x SATA, 4 x USB 3.0 at rear

All of them will do just fine, so it could come down to personal preference for one of these four brands, if you have any. I'd go for the ASRock motherboard as it has better LAN and support for future-leaning technology like M.2 and SATA Express which is nice to have the option for.

Are you sure you need a DVD drive? With everything coming via digital delivery nowadays, I haven't touched my DVD drive in over two years.

As for the case, how about the NZXT H230 for $88? It's cheaper than the NZXT Phantom 630 which is $184.

In one of the corners there is a cage that can hold two hard drives, and where the GPU would go on the motherboard, one end of the GPU is pushed to the other side of the case (where it could be screwed on), and the the other end is about 1.5cm away from the middle of the hard drive cage.

As it is, there is no way to even have 1 6-pin connected, partially because the cables are too rigid to bend around much. The best thing I could do is move the hard drive to open up a slight gap and attempt to pass the cables through there, but the two 6-pins are at different ends of a single small cable, so the bending is a real problem.

I should have insisted that my mate kept the old GPU and I could instead just get a cheap and half-size GTX 750 or something.

Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be much you can do. Nobody makes low profile or right angle GPU power connector adaptors, and I'm pretty sure a GTX 750 would be faster than the 5830.

Unless you can change graphics cards, you'll need to change the case.

If you don't have the money and don't want to get a different graphics card or case... a more radical, improvised solution would be to use a PCI-E riser extension cable so you don't have to slot the 5830 into the motherboard directly. But if you do go with that, then comes the question of where exactly you should put the graphics card so it's safe, and has to be close enough to connect to power supply GPU power cables.

Is it worth the trouble of scraping of the thermal pad on the OEM cooler and using after market thermal compound?

Depends on the cooler, what you're cooling, and which thermal paste you intend to use. I think only graphics cards or laptop PCs use thermal pads instead of thermal paste or grease. I linked to thermal paste roundup review by Tom's Hardware above, they tested it for processors and graphics cards, it's worth looking at.
 

I'm an expert

Formerly worldrevolution. The only reason I am nice to anyone else is to avoid being banned.
So I have a weird question. I feel like grabbing an average gaming pc but everything in my price range comes with a shitty GT720. Does anyone have a recommendation for a pre-built machine that I could just simply swap out the vid card and be good to go? I don't feel like going through the hassle of building a machine again. Basically, all I want is a desktop with an i5, minimum 8 gigs of ram, and for it to be around ~$500. Then I'd just grab a card to bring it to about $700 total. Or if anyone knows of a ~$700 prebuilt machine that doesn't come with a shit video card.. by all means.

Any suggestions or ideas? I guess the only issue would be making sure the mobo can handle the video card pci x16..and maybe the psu..
 

McBryBry

Member
How long do motherboard RMA's usually take? My MSI Gaming 5 failed a BIOS flash, and I RMA'd it. I got an email from them Tuesday saying they recieved it, and I've heard nothing else since then. I figured I'd at least get an update or something...
 

NoRéN

Member

I'm an expert

Formerly worldrevolution. The only reason I am nice to anyone else is to avoid being banned.
So I have a weird question. I feel like grabbing an average gaming pc but everything in my price range comes with a shitty GT720. Does anyone have a recommendation for a pre-built machine that I could just simply swap out the vid card and be good to go? I don't feel like going through the hassle of building a machine again. Basically, all I want is a desktop with an i5, minimum 8 gigs of ram, and for it to be around ~$500. Then I'd just grab a card to bring it to about $700 total. Or if anyone knows of a ~$700 prebuilt machine that doesn't come with a shit video card.. by all means.

Any suggestions or ideas? I guess the only issue would be making sure the mobo can handle the video card pci x16..and maybe the psu..

Just gonna quote my question for new page, sorry.
 
How long do motherboard RMA's usually take? My MSI Gaming 5 failed a BIOS flash, and I RMA'd it. I got an email from them Tuesday saying they recieved it, and I've heard nothing else since then. I figured I'd at least get an update or something...


You used the software instead of using the BIOS itself didn't you?
 

DrForester

Kills Photobucket
Any small CPU cooler suggestions? I want to do some mild overclocking on my i5 2500k to mitigate any bottlenecking on the 970 I'm getting, but my case is quite small (this guy: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=182) and there's only about 3 or so inches between the CPU and the psu underside.

I've only used their large coolers, but one brand that impressed me was Zalman, and I know they make some slim CPU coolers. I'd look into those.
 
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