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I did kind of a dumb thing and delidded my CPU. It worked out though.

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I was not getting excellent temps or a particularly great OC out of my i7-6700K so I decided to try my luck delidding it. I used the razor method and had good luck with ultra thin razors used for shaving. The old school ones. They're very thin and bendy though so I suggest being extremely careful. I started with the corners and worked my way around the IHS making sure not to cut too deep. I managed to remove the IHS and clean ALL the glue residue without damaging anything. They sell products specifically for delidding these processors and I would recommend those to the faint of heart. I used the floating method instead of re-gluing the IHS to the PCB and I'm very glad I did for reasons I'll get into later.

I HAD BAD LUCK AT FIRST.

I used Arctic MX-4 thermal paste between the die and the IHS and my temps did not improve significantly. At 1.335 on the VCORE I would hit 80C with a 4.6Ghz clock pretty soon after starting AIDA64. I tried several reapplications and eventually switched thermal pastes to Noctua NT-H1 and experienced similar results. I was very disappointed.

THEN I TRIED SOMETHING DIFFERENT.

So yeah, I was pretty bummed that I voided my CPU warranty for nothing. So I did some digging to see if there was anything I could do that might significantly improve temps. I looked into things like mounting the cooler directly onto the die but decided it was too dangerous/too much work. Eventually I came across peopled talking about having good results with Coollabratory Liquid Ultra TIM being on their hot running Kaby Lake CPUs. I have got to say... WOW.

I've been running AIDA64 for the last hour minutes or so and instead of shooting up to 80°C+ right away I'm still sitting at 56°C on the hottest core. My CPU fans would obviously hit 100% before and now they aren't coming anywhere close to that. So lower fan speeds and temp differences of close to 25°C. This is absolutely insane.

The liquid metal TIM made a huge difference but it's not without its faults. It's a pain in the ass to apply and I got some on my my plastic/vinyl place mat and it must have had some sort of weird chemical reaction because it looks like it left a burn on the mat. Be really careful not to get this stuff on anything. BTW, it IS conductive so be extremely careful not to get it on any contacts of your MOBO or CPU.

I only used the stuff between the IHS and the die. I did not use any between the heatsink and the IHS because you need to scuff up both surfaces for it to stick properly to those surfaces. I used the Noctua NT-H1 TIM for use between the Noctua heatsink and the IHS.

Sorry if this thread is kind of random, but ehhhh. I'm excited and wanted to share.

Qo06xlU.png
 

TAJ

Darkness cannot drive out darkness; only light can do that. Hate cannot drive out hate; only love can do that.
Temperatures are meaningless unless we know what the temperature in your room was.
 
Ambient temps in the room are always a steady 70°F or ~21°C.

As far as the desktop background is concerned. It used to be a rotation of space pictures but I decided I needed something that would cheer me up given my current set of circumstances.

 

SRG01

Member
Wow, this is actually kind of cool. Makes me want to delid my 4790k CPU, since I have access to a proper workbench and everything.
 
Wow, this is actually kind of cool. Makes me want to delid my 4790k CPU, since I have access to a proper workbench and everything.

Be extremely careful. Especially with that processor.

This is what Devil's Canyon looks like without the IHS.

And this is Skylake.

As you can see, there are additional components on the Devil's Canyon CPU vs Skylake. Components that will be susceptible to damage from the liquid metal due to it being electrically conductive. Not to mention the greater risk of damage if you use the razor method as I did.

This is what I did and I would recommend others do the same if they're going to try it. I used tape around the PCB and only exposed the die. I was able to brush on the thermal compound without having to worry about any of it touching the PCB. I then took this same tape and used it on the underside of the IHS to apply a thin layer there. Dead center, exactly the same size and shape as the die.

I used regular scotch tape that was pretty hard to work with. It might be better to use tape and then apply the tape to a piece of construction paper and cut the hole out of the paper. That way you don't have to deal with anything sticky.

Wow nice going. What voltage were you using before the delid?

Exact same voltage.

How does it fare in the Handbrake heat test?

Haven't tried it. My go to stress testing methods are AIDA64 and RealBench. Any particular test you'd like me to run? Just let me know how long you'd like the run and if there's any particular config to the stress test I ought to be using. I won't use anything like Prime95 as I've noticed that gets dangerously hot regardless of anything you do. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but recent versions of Prime95 seem like literal CPU killers.
 
I took the heat sink off my cpu a while ago, when I was tryng to clean the dust out of it. As soon as I did it, I felt like it was something I shouldnt have done. Luckily my computer still works ok.
 
I was scared taking apart my X360, but delidding a CPU....glad it worked out.

Luckily my 6600K@4.2GHz doesn't go north of 60c.

I'm glad it worked out for you.

I'm too ���� to delid my CPUs.

Cocky?

I took the heat sink off my cpu a while ago, when I was tryng to clean the dust out of it. As soon as I did it, I felt like it was something I shouldnt have done. Luckily my computer still works ok.

I hope you didn't use to much thermal paste!

Just kidding that's not a thing.
 

xkramz

Member
fuck all that i would never delid. i rather jsut buy an AIO water cooler like the new NZXT and be stylish and keep my cpu at a good cool temp .
 
fuck all that i would never delid. i rather jsut buy an AIO water cooler like the new NZXT and be stylish and keep my cpu at a good cool temp .

You'd get better temps, a quieter machine, and save money with a delid and air cooler. But then you wouldn't get all the flashy lights in your computer.
 
fuck all that i would never delid. i rather jsut buy an AIO water cooler like the new NZXT and be stylish and keep my cpu at a good cool temp .

Noctua NH-D15 that I'm using is just as good as any AIO cooler I've used. In fact, I had a Corsair H100i v2 inside this exact same build and I returned it in favor of this cooler. The advantages are as follows.

1. Much, MUCH quieter. Between the pump and included fans, the H100i V2 was stupidly loud in comparison. The Corsair was particularly annoying in how jarring it was as fan and pump RPM increased and decreased.

2. Noctua does just as good of a job keeping the CPU cool. I prefer how an air cooled system doesn't hold on to heat for as long as a water cooled system. Watch this video for an explanation.

Basically, a copper and aluminum air cooled system will reach max temps faster but it will also dissipate that heat faster once the system goes back to idle. It's easier to temp test on air because you don't have to leave the stress tests running as long. Water takes longer to heat up but it also takes longer to cool down.

3. I actually like how it looks. :p

4. There's fewer points of failures and zero chance of a leak. If one fan fails there's a second fan, if both fans fail the towers are big enough to effectively cool passively with just the airflow inside the case.

This is the system in question.

 

paskowitz

Member
I am delided as well. I can run my 4790k all the way up to 5.1Ghz and 1.45v no problem. Temps in stress tests never go above 75c. Gaming loads are around 50c. Idle is +2-5c whatever my water temps are. I am sure with better silicon I could go to 5.2-5.3Mhz with 1.5v before hitting 90c. Again, this is benching, so please don't tell me I am killing my CPU... 24/7 I run 4.8Ghz/1.32v.


System:
 

dluu13

Member
in my experience, any time you gotta work with any kind of adhesive or paste that shit gets everywhere and maks a mess. I had to use this epoxy TIM for something I was doing once and it was a pain in the ass.
 

akira28

Member
Haven't tried it. My go to stress testing methods are AIDA64 and RealBench. Any particular test you'd like me to run? Just let me know how long you'd like the run and if there's any particular config to the stress test I ought to be using. I won't use anything like Prime95 as I've noticed that gets dangerously hot regardless of anything you do. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but recent versions of Prime95 seem like literal CPU killers.

lol, I've run stress tests, and yeah Prime95 seems useless. But handbrake was the only program I've used that had the unofficial caveat of overheating your system if you're not careful. I thought I would be fine, but I was not. It sent my normally 40-50C machine up to 100C. And since I had upgraded to water cooled a year or so ago, I wasn't happy. I was researching different types of heat sink sealers, and will probably get arctic something or other(non-metallic) since its the moderate path, but once I blew off the radiator with some canned air to relieve some dust cover, handbrake couldn't get it over 80C.

So that might be my unofficial heat test, lol, since they don't really plan on changing it. Its a feature, not a fault.
 
I am delided as well. I can run my 4790k all the way up to 5.1Ghz and 1.45v no problem. Temps in stress tests never go above 75c. Gaming loads are around 50c. Idle is +2-5c whatever my water temps are. I am sure with better silicon I could go to 5.2-5.3Mhz with 1.5v before hitting 90c. Again, this is benching, so please don't tell me I am killing my CPU... 24/7 I run 4.8Ghz/1.32v.



System:

AYYYYY niiiice! Phanteks Evolv?

I'm using an Evolv ITX!

Got a parts list anywhere?
 
Noctua NH-D15 that I'm using is just as good as any AIO cooler I've used. In fact, I had a Corsair H100i v2 inside this exact same build and I returned it in favor of this cooler. The advantages are as follows.

1. Much, MUCH quieter. Between the pump and included fans, the H100i V2 was stupidly loud in comparison. The Corsair was particularly annoying in how jarring it was as fan and pump RPM increased and decreased.

2. Noctua does just as good of a job keeping the CPU cool. I prefer how an air cooled system doesn't hold on to heat for as long as a water cooled system. Watch this video for an explanation.

Basically, a copper and aluminum air cooled system will reach max temps faster but it will also dissipate that heat faster once the system goes back to idle. It's easier to temp test on air because you don't have to leave the stress tests running as long. Water takes longer to heat up but it also takes longer to cool down.

3. I actually like how it looks. :p

4. There's fewer points of failures and zero chance of a leak. If one fan fails there's a second fan, if both fans fail the towers are big enough to effectively cool passively with just the airflow inside the case.

This is the system in question.

Ah yes, another Noctua fanboy. I opted for the NH-U14S since it's smaller.

(Forgive the cable management, the power supply is a product of a different era and makes cable management virtually impossible.)

I still hit the voltage limit long before hitting thermal cap. My i5 4690k runs at 4.7Ghz stable, and never goes above about 70 degrees.

It kinda seems the hoops people jump through for lower temps are a little silly. Like, why does the CPU need to run at 50 degrees versus 70 degrees? 70 degrees is plenty cool enough for 24/7 usage without damaging it. Water cooling in particular seems a little superfluous given the risk tied to it.
 
It's just so stupid that this is even necessary to begin with. Fucking Intel.

I can see the rationale behind not soldering, and this article helps explain it. But I have to agree. This is not a small difference in temperatures and literally the only difference is the TIM used on the die. Although to be fair, time will tell if this is a good solution in the long run. For all I know, this stuff could dry out or pose other problems in the future.

Quick question? Is there a way to tie case fans to the GPU temps? Now that the CPU doesn't reach high enough temps to kick the case fans into high gear I need something to make the fans ramp up with GPU temps.
 
I'm glad it worked out for you.

I'm too ���� to delid my CPUs.

tumblr_o0q88fedKk1rb6tbeo1_500.gif


And as someone else said, what's the temperature of your room? My 6700k has sometimes been at 8 degrees Celsius because the room it's in is freezing in the morning. Impressive results either way.
 
Ah yes, another Noctua fanboy. I opted for the NH-U14S since it's smaller.


(Forgive the cable management, the power supply is a product of a different era and makes cable management virtually impossible.)

I still hit the voltage limit long before hitting thermal cap. My i5 4690k runs at 4.7Ghz stable, and never goes above about 70 degrees.

It kinda seems the hoops people jump through for lower temps are a little silly. Like, why does the CPU need to run at 50 degrees versus 70 degrees? 70 degrees is plenty cool enough for 24/7 usage without damaging it. Water cooling in particular seems a little superfluous given the risk tied to it.

Fan-grill, you mean. And I'm using an ITX case and I STILL fit the full fat NH-D15 inside. Woowoo.

Your temps and OC are very good. Unfortunately, I didn't get a particularly great CPU and we're not talking temps in the 70's we're talking temps in the 80's at relatively low voltages. Being in a somewhat airflow starved case doesn't particularly help. 25 degrees is not a small difference and that gives me a LOT more headroom now to push my clock speeds higher.
 

SRG01

Member
Be extremely careful. Especially with that processor.

This is what Devil's Canyon looks like without the IHS.


And this is Skylake.


As you can see, there are additional components on the Devil's Canyon CPU vs Skylake. Components that will be susceptible to damage from the liquid metal due to it being electrically conductive. Not to mention the greater risk of damage if you use the razor method as I did.

This is what I did and I would recommend others do the same if they're going to try it. I used tape around the PCB and only exposed the die. I was able to brush on the thermal compound without having to worry about any of it touching the PCB. I then took this same tape and used it on the underside of the IHS to apply a thin layer there. Dead center, exactly the same size and shape as the die.

I used regular scotch tape that was pretty hard to work with. It might be better to use tape and then apply the tape to a piece of construction paper and cut the hole out of the paper. That way you don't have to deal with anything sticky.

Heh, that's actually pretty similar to stenciling techniques I teach my students :)

At the same time, I wonder if those are 0201 components and if they have a lower height clearance than the silicon die. If they do, then I can probably apply some non-conductive epoxy on top of them...
 
Something else I noticed: much more stable temps across all cores.

There used to be ~15 degree variations between the hottest and coolest cores. Now we're talking 3 degree differences.
 

paskowitz

Member
AYYYYY niiiice! Phanteks Evolv?

I'm using an Evolv ITX!

Got a parts list anywhere?

Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass: Anthracite | i7 4790K: 4.8Ghz/1.33v | EVGA GTX 980 Ti Classified: 1535/8100Mhz | KLEVV Genuine: 2666Mhz 16Gb DDR3 | EVGA G2 850W | Samsung 950 PRO 256Gb NVMe SSD/Samsung 850 EVO: 500Gb/HGST Deskstar NAS: 6Tb/WD Black: 3Tb | Pioneer Kuro 5020-FD | CPU Delid w/CLU on die&IHS | CLU and Fujipoly pads on GPU | Watercool Heakiller IV Pro | EK-FC780 GTX Classy | Hardware Labs Nemesis 280 GTS Xflow | Swiftech H240X | 4x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000rpm | 2x Swiftech Helix 140 | 17995 3DMark Firestrike (Top 100 WW w/4790K&980 Ti) | NZXT HUE+ | MNPCTech metal cable combs | Primochill carbon fiber sleeving | Viviid Vinyl Epoxy carbon fiber vinyl wrap

Sorry for the necro...
 

Timedog

good credit (by proxy)
I wanna do this to my 4970k but I'm hella scared. Bought an 80 dollar noctua cooler when i built it and it still doesn't OC for shit.
 

Laiza

Member
The results certainly do speak for themselves... but I feel like I'd have to pay someone to do it for me. Too afraid of ruining a $200+ CPU with one small mistake.

It's kind of moot at this point in time, though, since I still haven't upgraded from my old i5 2500k. I will eventually... just not right now.

Sorry for the necro...
5-and-a-quarter-hour gap doesn't count as a necro.
 
I wanna do this to my 4970k but I'm hella scared. Bought an 80 dollar noctua cooler when i built it and it still doesn't OC for shit.

Don't be a pussy. Do it, dawg.:p

But seriously. I was getting 80°C temps at 4.5Ghz and 1.35V. I'll post pics soon but now I'm getting 62°C temps at 1.4V at 4.7Ghz.

Absolutely worth doing but be extremely careful. I also have to say, don't bother if you're not going to use a liquid metal TIM.
 

Nephtis

Member
The results certainly do speak for themselves... but I feel like I'd have to pay someone to do it for me. Too afraid of ruining a $200+ CPU with one small mistake.

It's kind of moot at this point in time, though, since I still haven't upgraded from my old i5 2500k. I will eventually... just not right now.


5-and-a-quarter-hour gap doesn't count as a necro.

You can purchase one already delidded at Silicon Lottery. They are a reputable site and you can either purchase the delid service, or purchase a CPU that's already been delidded.
 
I wouldn't recommend buying a delid tool or paying someone else to do it unless you're REALLY skittish. Honestly, using a razor was not hard at all. I cleaned the remaining glue with a credit card and it came out perfect. Just take your time.

I ran an hour of AIDA64 at 1.415V 4.7Ghz. Max temps are 64°C. Unfortunately, I accidentally closed AIDA64 instead of clicking minimize which was what I meant to do. Thankfully, the it kept some of the info when I restarted it. It did NOT crash, I just accidentally closed out of it without hitting stop. :/

 

SRG01

Member
Interesting. So the common thermal paste variety is actually crap.

The TIM material between the flipped die and the heat spreader is not that effective. That, and if the spreader is glued on, it's super easy to take off.

If, however, the heat spreader is soldered on, then you'll have much bigger issues... but the thermal performance with a soldered heat spreader is orders better already.
 
The TIM material between the flipped die and the heat spreader is not that effective. That, and if the spreader is glued on, it's super easy to take off.

If, however, the heat spreader is soldered on, then you'll have much bigger issues... but the thermal performance with a soldered heat spreader is orders better already.

Yes, but IIRC you need to go all the way back to Sandy Bridge to find soldered on heat spreaders.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure. With AMD it's not as though it's mattered until recently anyway. Although the early indication seems to be that Ryzen isn't great at overclocking. I don't want to get too off track with that though. :p

Someone on another forum had good advice/made a truthy statement.

Not only did you drop temps even more with the CLU, but you also inadvertently avoided future issues. When using a regular paste on the die, two things happen that aren't good. They dry up a lot faster requiring more frequent reapplication and the paste pumps out from between the die and IHS. A lost of people notice a nice drop when they initially use paste, but see rising temps very soon after. Drying up and pumping out does not occur with CLU.

I absolutely noticed quickly rising temps as time went by after the delid using regular non liquid metal TIM. Results were not bad with MX4 and Noctua NT-H1 but temps became atrocious after just a few days. I'm keeping a close eye on temps now and I've not noticed any steady increases like I did before. As it gets warmer and ambient temps start to rise we'll start to see what happens then. Looking at my lowest temp results from earlier it appears ambient temp in this room is closer to 65°F/18°C.

Still... I was getting 80° @ 1.335V and 4.5Ghz almost immediately after starting AIDA64.

It's worth mentioning that I don't believe this is due to user error either. I'd gotten similar results after reapplying TIM and remounting my Noctua NH-D15 SEVERAL times. The poor results from before are not due to a botched TIM application or heat sink mount.
 

Alex

Member
Interesting read, id never have the courage for the process but I like reading about it. Heck I get nervous just doing custom BIOS on my GPU.
 

DonMigs85

Member
Apparently Deepcool Z5 is a really good and cheap thermal paste.
Also on a related note, AMD's Ryzen chips already have a good TIM in the IHS so no real need to delid those.
 
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