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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I recommend looking on eBay at the completed listing section to get an idea of what different components are going for. Keep in mind that current eBay + PayPal fees run around 15%, so $30 on Craig's list is equal to getting around $36 on eBay.
Of All Trades
Member
What's the difference between the following ram sticks aside from the size of the heat spreaders?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233202
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233144
I've read that the huge spreaders can get in the way of fancier CPU heatsinks (like the hyper212) but is there any problem or issue with the "modest" version of the ram? Is the giganto-version just for looks?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233202
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233144
I've read that the huge spreaders can get in the way of fancier CPU heatsinks (like the hyper212) but is there any problem or issue with the "modest" version of the ram? Is the giganto-version just for looks?
BoobPhysics101
Banned
Yes, it is entirely just for looks. Get the low profile stuff.
The reason that those heatsinks are so popular is because a few years back, DDR2 used to run hot so manufacturers would put those on there to keep the RAM running cooler. DDR3 runs much cooler and doesn't need heatsinks.
Big Chungus
Member
About to order these parts, what do you guys think?
Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro GEN3 Z68 LGA1155 ATX 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 2 PCI B3 Motherboard
Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9B Vengeance Bl Lowprofile 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory Kit
EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD Fermi 732MHZ 1280MB GDDR5 2XDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Video Card
Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 7200.12 1TB SATA 32MB Cache 3.5IN Internal Hard Drive OEM
Seasonic X760 Gold ATX 12V 24PIN 750W Active PFC 80PLUS Gold Modular SLI Ready Power Supply
Corsair Graphite Series 600TM Mid-Tower Case ATX 4X5.25 6X3.5INT 4 Channel Fan Ctrl No PS MESH Panel
Samsung SH-222BB 22X DVD Writer SATA Black OEM
Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Direct Touch 4 Heatpipe Heatsink AM2 AM3 LGA1366 LGA1155 LGA1156 120MM
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB 2.5IN SATA3 6Gbps Sandforce SF-2281 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD
Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro GEN3 Z68 LGA1155 ATX 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 2 PCI B3 Motherboard
Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9B Vengeance Bl Lowprofile 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory Kit
EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD Fermi 732MHZ 1280MB GDDR5 2XDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Video Card
Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 7200.12 1TB SATA 32MB Cache 3.5IN Internal Hard Drive OEM
Seasonic X760 Gold ATX 12V 24PIN 750W Active PFC 80PLUS Gold Modular SLI Ready Power Supply
Corsair Graphite Series 600TM Mid-Tower Case ATX 4X5.25 6X3.5INT 4 Channel Fan Ctrl No PS MESH Panel
Samsung SH-222BB 22X DVD Writer SATA Black OEM
Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus Direct Touch 4 Heatpipe Heatsink AM2 AM3 LGA1366 LGA1155 LGA1156 120MM
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB 2.5IN SATA3 6Gbps Sandforce SF-2281 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD
You know, it is frustrating to make 3 suggestions and not get any feedback.
If you want a worse overall machine go with that. If you care, look back at my posts and others recommendations over the previous 2-3 pages.
If you want a worse overall machine go with that. If you care, look back at my posts and others recommendations over the previous 2-3 pages.
Take up a DVD slot and they control the voltage to your fans, making them run slower if you want. 33-38 is fine.
Big Chungus
Member
Are you talking to me? because I did read your recommendations and changed the power supply to seasonic 80+
Just want some feedback.
M4 SSD over Vertex 3. Too many issues with that drive imo. If you want comparable speed get a Corsair Force GT instead.
GTX 580. Dropping 2 grand and not getting one seems wrong. GTX 570 is still a great card though, so if you don't think that is worth it, fine.
Samsung F3 1TB or F4 2TB for the drive. Great drives. If you prefer Seagate, fine. I just want to know WHY you pick the parts you pick. That's all.
Big Chungus
Member
M4 is currently unavailable at the site i'm ordering from, might get the Corsair Force GT but the reviews on the site seem to favor the OCZ Vertex 3.
The GTX 580 is way too expensive for me...might just SLI with another 570 in the future if I need the extra power.
The Samsung F3/F4 aren't available at the site
The Seagate is mainly for extra storage, won't be running much from them.If you could suggest a better hard drive i'd appreciate it: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=109
Edit: Is this the F4 you're talking about?
http://otvtech.com/catalogue?page=s...ge_stock.tpl&product_id=13679&category_id=364
It's available at a computer store in the city, I could just grab it from there.
M4 is currently unavailable at the site i'm ordering from, might get the Corsair Force GT but the reviews on the site seem to favor the OCZ Vertex 3.
The GTX 580 is way too expensive for me...might just SLI with another 570 in the future if I need the extra power.The Samsung F3/F4 aren't available at the site
If you could suggest a better hard drive i'd appreciate it: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=109
Edit: Is this the F4 you're talking about?
http://otvtech.com/catalogue?page=s...ge_stock.tpl&product_id=13679&category_id=364
It's available at a computer store in the city, I could just grab it from there.
$2,000 for a computer...but a GTX 580 is too expensive for you? wat (unless I'm getting you mixed up with another poster. if that's the case, i apologize!)
Also the SLI in the future mindset is a bad one to take. Either you do SLI now or don't do it at all. "In the future" the 600 series will be out which will most be more powerful than the 500 series, and (possibly) consume less power.
You can go about however, it's your $$$...just my opinion.
Big Chungus
Member
The build i'm looking at is $1700
Reviews often don't take into account random BSODs and driver failures. Both of those SSDs use the newer Sandforce controllers, but Corsair has better support.M4 is currently unavailable at the site i'm ordering from, might get the Corsair Force GT but the reviews on the site seem to favor the OCZ Vertex 3.
The GTX 580 is way too expensive for me...might just SLI with another 570 in the future if I need the extra power.
The Samsung F3/F4 aren't available at the site
If you could suggest a better hard drive i'd appreciate it: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=109
Edit: Is this the F4 you're talking about?
http://otvtech.com/catalogue?page=s...ge_stock.tpl&product_id=13679&category_id=364
It's available at a computer store in the city, I could just grab it from there.
Yes that is the F4 I mentioned. You are looking at 15% slower speed (5400rpm), but as a data drive compared to current drives it is still way more than enough. Great drive.
As was said, SLi now, or don't. A 570 now and a 6xx series down the line is fine. I'd rather people do that as it maximizes money spent on the machine.
I'm deciding which motherboard i should get for this build
Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($42.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($91.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Video Card ($227.55 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Scout ATX Mid Tower Case ($46.26 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS424-98 DVD/CD Writer ($24.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $613.77
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated 2011-12-13 17:33 EST-0500)
This is a build for my brother. With the newegg sale the gigabyte is $114.99 no rebate and the Asrock is the same price with a rebate. I plan to overclock this mobo and I also plan to overclock the cpu and gpu and sli in the future. Which of these motherboards is best for this build and why? Also what would be a good psu for this build? I was looking at this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...121311-Index-_-PowerSupplies-_-17139020-L015C
Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($42.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($91.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Video Card ($227.55 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Scout ATX Mid Tower Case ($46.26 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS424-98 DVD/CD Writer ($24.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $613.77
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated 2011-12-13 17:33 EST-0500)
This is a build for my brother. With the newegg sale the gigabyte is $114.99 no rebate and the Asrock is the same price with a rebate. I plan to overclock this mobo and I also plan to overclock the cpu and gpu and sli in the future. Which of these motherboards is best for this build and why? Also what would be a good psu for this build? I was looking at this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...121311-Index-_-PowerSupplies-_-17139020-L015C
Storm Scout is not $46, it is $60.
I don't know what mobo you are looking at, but a $100-$120 board I'd get an ASRock. Some users have had some issues with their GB boards and are a bit sour about them.
Don't expect SLi on it, and xFire on a lower end machine you are just better off getting a fast single card.
PSU is fine.
I don't know what mobo you are looking at, but a $100-$120 board I'd get an ASRock. Some users have had some issues with their GB boards and are a bit sour about them.
Don't expect SLi on it, and xFire on a lower end machine you are just better off getting a fast single card.
PSU is fine.
Just built the following myself for $850 with a lot of bargain hunting:
Intel i5 2500k - $150
Asus p8z68-m Pro - $50
Scythe Big Shuriken 2 CPU Cooler - $50
Silverstone Grandia GD05-B - $84
SilverStone Strider Plus ST50F-P 500W - $80
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 - $30
SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6950 2GB - $200
HITACHI 500GB 7200 RPM SATA - $50
Sony Optiarc 24X DVD Burner - $20
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM - $75
Accessories:
Logitech K250 keyboard - $20
Logitech M570 trackball - $50
EDIMAX EW-7811Un USB 2.0 Wireless nano Adapter - $12
ASUS USB-BT211 Mini Bluetooth Dongle USB 2.0 - $13
Microsoft Wireless Controller for Windows - $45
minus a $20 newegg credit from a Google offer and some other random discounts from newegg.
Of All Trades
Member
Please judge my parts decision:
i5-2500k - $225
Coolermaster hyper212+ - $25
WD 500gb Caviar Blue - $90
Antec EA-650 Green PSU - $85
Liteon DVDRW - $20
Win7 Home Premium - $100
8GB of this Corsair Ram - $49
This Coolermaster Case (lots of good reviews on newegg) - $55
Asus GTX 560Ti, non-OC - $250
Asus P8P67 Rev3.1 - $150
Plus assembly for $80 (includes parts testing), shipping, and sales tax (the curse of living in CA is that all the PC bits places are here, too) = $1250. Hoping for the system to last, say 3.5 years at settings around Max or at least Very Good (AA doesn't mean as much to me as most people) at 1650 for now, 1080p later playing all types of games.
Also, I am aware that I could price shop for parts (I sent a lot of stuff back to Amazon and Newegg after a failed build and there were a lot of $10-15 savings here and there) but am not in the mood to suffer through bad parts and exchange-RMAs. I really want a system I can pull out of the box, plug in, and start playing games from Steam on.
i5-2500k - $225
Coolermaster hyper212+ - $25
WD 500gb Caviar Blue - $90
Antec EA-650 Green PSU - $85
Liteon DVDRW - $20
Win7 Home Premium - $100
8GB of this Corsair Ram - $49
This Coolermaster Case (lots of good reviews on newegg) - $55
Asus GTX 560Ti, non-OC - $250
Asus P8P67 Rev3.1 - $150
Plus assembly for $80 (includes parts testing), shipping, and sales tax (the curse of living in CA is that all the PC bits places are here, too) = $1250. Hoping for the system to last, say 3.5 years at settings around Max or at least Very Good (AA doesn't mean as much to me as most people) at 1650 for now, 1080p later playing all types of games.
Also, I am aware that I could price shop for parts (I sent a lot of stuff back to Amazon and Newegg after a failed build and there were a lot of $10-15 savings here and there) but am not in the mood to suffer through bad parts and exchange-RMAs. I really want a system I can pull out of the box, plug in, and start playing games from Steam on.
Celcius
°Temp. member
I literally spent the entire day trouble-shooting issues with my pc and it turns out that the power supply was causing all of my problems. One of the wires in the 12v connector was either loose or had a short.
I just mailed back the defective psu and tomorrow I'll probably go buy an AX 850 at frys...
I just mailed back the defective psu and tomorrow I'll probably go buy an AX 850 at frys...
Of All Trades
Member
Nothing at all. It had been up and running for about 5 hours prior to this, while I was downloading programs and Skyrim and installing drivers and stuff.
Of All Trades
Member
Leaning towards bad PSU. I had one go out (a fancy one at that) and some power was still trickling through to the USB and mobo (a couple lights would go on), but nothing else. It's "easy" to test for because if you have a spare PSU from an older PC you can plug in the necessary two connectors to get it to post.
Yeah, fans aren't spinning, keyboard and mouse lights aren't on. The LED behind the power button on the case turns on for a split second when I press it if I unplug the PSU and plug it back in. After that first press I get nothing.
Celcius
°Temp. member
It was a corsair HX 850. I kept wondering why my 3.3v rail was low and showing up red, then later the pc couldn't run for more than a few minutes without freezing even at stock, and finally by the end of the day the machine wouldn't even boot. In desperation I just happen to try wiggling one of the wires in the 12v connector and the system powered on.
I have a stock cooler on my i5-2500K and I'm at idle usage my temps are around 40-45C.... according to the reports I'm reading online that's a bit high. Prime95 gets me to max 71C. The temp in my home is 78F/25.6C...
I have a HAF 912 and no videocard in my machine (which worries me as I'm getting my 6870 soon....).
What could be wrong? I just put the fan/heatsink on the CPU just like normal since it came with the thermal compound already on the fan/heatsink...
Now I'm debating getting a Cooler Master 212... like an above poster I'm not going to be overclocking now, but I definitely foresee using a boost when my processor will be starting to age or if I want to try out Dolphin
I have a HAF 912 and no videocard in my machine (which worries me as I'm getting my 6870 soon....).
What could be wrong? I just put the fan/heatsink on the CPU just like normal since it came with the thermal compound already on the fan/heatsink...
Now I'm debating getting a Cooler Master 212... like an above poster I'm not going to be overclocking now, but I definitely foresee using a boost when my processor will be starting to age or if I want to try out Dolphin
Probably PSU.
Dont worry about idle temps.
Going to suggest the normal routine.
-Try booting with one stick of RAM, then just the other by itself as well.
-Try clearing CMOS.
-Try booting with no video card
-Recheck all cables to make sure they are plugged all the way in properly.
-Remove anything that isn't necessary to just boot, including HDD's, just try to get into BIOS
-Once you get into BIOS, start adding things back piece by piece
-If none of this works, either motherboard or PSU related.
Sorry, should have read the OP :x I see 65C is max safe temp though... so I'm assuming I shouldn't attempt any O/Cing at all on the stock hsf?
Can you see the ambient temp within the case? If it's fairly normal try applying a different thermal compound and re-seating the cpu heatsink again. Also try enabling SMART fan control in the bios. The stock heatsink/fan for intel isn't exactly great but they are quiet. I'm using a stock one on my i5-2400 and idles around 38-45 then 60 at load. However I did use Artic Silver 5 instead of the compound that came with the cpu.I have a stock cooler on my i5-2500K and I'm at idle usage my temps are around 40-45C.... according to the reports I'm reading online that's a bit high. Prime95 gets me to max 71C. The temp in my home is 78F/25.6C...
I have a HAF 912 and no videocard in my machine (which worries me as I'm getting my 6870 soon....).
What could be wrong? I just put the fan/heatsink on the CPU just like normal since it came with the thermal compound already on the fan/heatsink...
Now I'm debating getting a Cooler Master 212... like an above poster I'm not going to be overclocking now, but I definitely foresee using a boost when my processor will be starting to age or if I want to try out Dolphin
mattiewheels
And then the LORD David Bowie saith to his Son, Jonny Depp: 'Go, and spread my image amongst the cosmos. For every living thing is in anguish and only the LIGHT shall give them reprieve.'
I've been sitting on a 3-core 3.0ghz for about a year, and I'm curious what benefit I'd have getting a quad or hex-core. Only gaming on this unit, so could I safely stay with what I have and keep getting new GPUs or is more than 3 cores a must?
It's not the 3 core holding you back, but the processing power of your Athlon x3. Still should do very well for gaming that is not RTS or CPU intensive.
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
If the fans don't spin, it's definitely the PSU, as you're not even getting enough power to turn them on.
Just had this happen with my new build and the Seasonic 80+. Switched to a Corsair PSU. Worked like a charm.
Now for my question - Prime95 fails some tests. New i5, so wondering if the memory is to blame. Ran memtest86+, and it's failing test 4 at a couple memory addresses multiple times, gotta be bad ram right? Ordered new ram to hopefully swap in. Want to be stable/pass before doing any OC-ing.
Otherwise though the system has been stable while gaming, though I haven't played much yet.
Yeah none of that worked, can't even get to the ASUS splash screen. Just no juice it seems like. Guess I'll call Amazon about getting a replacement.
mattiewheels
And then the LORD David Bowie saith to his Son, Jonny Depp: 'Go, and spread my image amongst the cosmos. For every living thing is in anguish and only the LIGHT shall give them reprieve.'
Ok, and since I don't play those too much sounds like just getting a 560ti or something beefier might be the best upgrade for me. Thanks.
RukusProvider
Banned
Is my GTX580 dying?
I'm getting full system reboots.
Took of all OC of all components. STILL REBOOTS.
Ran Intelburntest with Max memory for 20runs. No issues there.
Play Skyrim. Surely, it'll reboot at some point.
NOTHING on my system has changes. This was happening with 1.2. Updated to 1.3 still happening. Getting worse.
Any ideas?
I'm getting full system reboots.
Took of all OC of all components. STILL REBOOTS.
Ran Intelburntest with Max memory for 20runs. No issues there.
Play Skyrim. Surely, it'll reboot at some point.
NOTHING on my system has changes. This was happening with 1.2. Updated to 1.3 still happening. Getting worse.
Any ideas?
I'd say on staying away from increasing voltage. You can increase the multiplier without increasing heat.
Finally going modular. Goes well with my white case. Going to let the IT guy at work put it in for me.
Got this one for what I'll be building soon. Fully modular as well.
Not sure if you have yet (haven't been following thread much lately) but have you ran memtest86+? Could easily be bad ram.Is my GTX580 dying?
I'm getting full system reboots.
Took of all OC of all components. STILL REBOOTS.
Ran Intelburntest with Max memory for 20runs. No issues there.
Play Skyrim. Surely, it'll reboot at some point.
NOTHING on my system has changes. This was happening with 1.2. Updated to 1.3 still happening. Getting worse.
Any ideas?
RukusProvider
Banned
Yep ran memtest also and prime 95 set to focus on RAM. No issues.
Event viewer logs this each time:
"The bugcheck was: 0x00000116 (0xfffffa800cd45010, 0xfffff88007d4a330, 0xffffffffc000009a, 0x0000000000000004)."
UPDATE: I downloaded a program called "who crashed" which looks at the dmp file. It's 100% an nvidia issues.
BugCheck name: VIDEO_TDR_ERROR
Caused by: nvlddmkm.sys
0x00000116 is a video driver error or something
Big Chungus
Member
Ugh, just read online that the PC case I ordered, the Corsair 600TM, can't have the front/top fans removed because of the size is custom...
FML
FML
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